my first year at queen’s 1964 1965bergmagn/qub.pdf · like uganda and nigeria. i was fascinated...
TRANSCRIPT
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
1
My first year at Queen’s 1964 – 1965
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
2
My first year at Queen’s 1964 – 1965
It is just over 50 years since I came to Northern Ireland to study zoology at
Queen’s University. Below I will try and write about this experience partly from
memory but also based on letters I wrote home and to friends in Iceland during
this first year. I have surprisingly few photographs from this time. I bought a
cheap camera during my first year but cameras were used sparingly in those
days.
Why zoology, why Queen’s?
I don‘t know really where my
interest in zoology came from. We
did not have an inspiring biology
teacher in my school and I was not a
special „nature lover“. For a while I
had dreamed of becoming a veteran-
arian but was told by the local vet to
forget it – this was definitely not a
job for a woman!
“Student’s” exams finished!
In 1964, the University of Iceland
had no departments of natural
sciences (this came four years later),
so to study zoology I would have to
go abroad. I sought the advice of a
well-known zoologist and ornitho-
logist in Iceland, Dr Finnur
Gudmundsson, who had studied at a
German university, and he strongly
recommended English speaking
universities, in either Great Britain
or Ireland.
Dr Finnur Guðmundsson
According to him not only could you
get a basic university degree in 3 – 4
years, compared to up to 6 years in
Germany but you would also get a
good basic knowledge of English,
which was the language used for
most scientific papers.
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
3
The British councillor at this time
was Brian Holt, who was originally
from Northern Ireland, and he (not
unnaturally) suggested to me the
Queen’s University in Belfast.
Brian Holt
At this time QUB had also the
advantage over Scottish, English and
Irish universities in that its fees were
considerably lower. The outcome
was that I applied for an entry to
QUB to study zoology as the main
subject and was accepted in the early
spring of 1964. I picked as extra
subjects botany, chemistry and
physics (I really wanted to do either
geology or maths rather than physics
but that was not possible).
Coming to Northern Ireland
On the 21st of September 1964 I
flew from Reykjavik to Glasgow and
from there to Belfast (Aldergrove).
This was about 2 or 3 weeks before
the start of term since I reckoned I
would need some time to get settled
in and get used to everything. I came
from a small village in Iceland, I had
never been abroad before and I had
never flown before but I was not
very anxious, just ready for an
adventure and full of optimism.
My English, however, was very
poor. I could read and write English
reasonably well but talking was a
great problem, partly due to shyness,
and I often had problems in under-
standing what was being said to me.
Icelandair time table in 1964
In Glasgow I landed in difficulties
with the immigration office who
asked for my acceptance papers from
QUB. When I finally understood this
I had to dig up the papers which I
had hidden carefully at the bottom of
my trunk!
While I waited for my flight to
Belfast keeping an eye on all the
notice boards since I did not under-
stand a word that was being said on
the loud speakers, a young man
came over and asked me where I was
going. When I told him I was going
to Belfast he said he was going there
too. He was called Noel (I don’t
remember the surname) and he had
been on the plane from Reykjavik
too. He asked me what I was going
to study at QUB and I said zoology –
I said this several times (like
“soology”) but he did not
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
4
understand! Finally I wrote it down
– Oh yes! zoo – ology!
Three girls got small grants from „Women
student association“ – and the third on the list
was studying veterinary science in Denmark!
Noel, who was from England, was
on his way to Belfast to visit his
girlfriend, Margret, and he offered
that they would give me a lift from
the airport to the YWCA (where I
would be staying). This was a stroke
of luck for me because I only had a
vague idea of how I would get from
Aldergrove to the YWCA in Belfast.
Noel and Margret took me first to
Margret’s home where I met her
parents and two sisters and they gave
me an evening meal. They were very
friendly and I remember spending a
while with them before being taken
to the YWCA. The following
Sunday they took me for a drive to
the Mourne Mountains and I was
very impressed by all the greenery,
the heavy traffic (compared to
Iceland) and caravan villages along
the coast, which I had never seen
before.
The Mourne mountains
Noel said that on Sundays everybody
went out for a drive and then sat in
their cars and watched the sea.
Margret’s family gave me their
phone number and told me to phone
any time but I think I was too shy to
contact them again. However, the
following spring Noel and Margret
called on me again which was nice.
The YWCA in 2011 – a restaurant?
The University had got me lodgings
at the YWCA hostel on the Malone
Road, not far from the main QUB
buildings. At this time there were no
halls of residence for students, there
were a few university houses mainly
for postgraduates, but most students
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
5
stayed in lodgings or rented flats
together. At the YWCA Miss Parker,
a very respectable and serious lady,
who was in charge of the hostel,
welcomed me and one of her staff
showed me my room and the main
parts of the house. They were kind
but seemed a bit taken aback by my
poor English. The YWCA was a big
house, and looked very old to me. I
don’t know how many women
lodged there, maybe 20 – 30. These
were not just students but also some
middle aged women that had jobs in
offices or shops in Belfast and even
some old age pensioners. The
students were both from QUB and
from the Stranmillis College.
The University area -here was the YWCA
The first impression, making
friends
To begin with I was put in an
enormous room with a big bay-
window facing the main street
(Malone Road), later I was moved to
another smaller, supposedly warmer,
room. I had been told that the houses
in Britain were cold with no central
heating as we had nearly everywhere
in Iceland. I had therefore brought
my own (genuine) eider-down with
me but discovered now that bed-
making was different here, no
eiderdown covers were used, just
two sheets and blankets so I had to
put my eiderdown between the top
sheet and the blankets. Everybody
seemed to use hot water bottles
which I did not possess. The room
had a small electric heater that you
had to feed with shillings and really
did not do much good. Often I
thought it was warmer outside than
inside the house.
QUB – an old postcard
When I came to the YWCA, only a
few students had arrived but the
following weekend the hostel started
to fill up. Many of the students were
from India. Indonesia and Malaysia
and from various countries in Africa,
like Uganda and Nigeria. I was
fascinated by these exotic looking
girls, especially the colourful outfits
that they wore on Sundays or when
going out. One of the Indian girls
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
6
was asked to show me the house. I
don’t really remember the layout of
it but it was on three or four levels
with an annexed building at the
back, a big sitting room with a grand
piano and several enormous easy
chairs. In the basement there was a
“laundry” where we could wash and
dry our clothes (no washing
machines). This had to be used in the
evenings since there was no hot
water during the day. There was, at
least for the students, only one bath,
you had to book it in advance and
you felt you were expected to use
this sparingly, certainly not every
day.
Double decker bus
I don’t remember how much I paid
in rent, but it was relatively low.
Included in the rent was a breakfast
at 8 o’clock, lunch at 1 o’clock,
although the students mostly had
their lunch at college, and tea or an
evening meal at 6 o’clock. Around 9
o’clock we could also get tea or hot
milk for our own cocoa or instant
coffee, or ovaltine which I had never
tasted before.
The students complained a lot about
how poor the evening meal was. It
consisted perhaps of one tomato or
one egg or a slice of ham or cheese
but plenty of tea, bread and butter. I
was never a big eater and was quite
happy with this meal. I was also
fussy about what I liked and what I
did not like and eggs were “off” at
this time so when an egg was the
“tea” I offered it to the others which
was very popular!
During these two weeks, before the
lectures started, I walked around the
neighbourhood, the Botanic Garden,
the Ulster Museum and the
University grounds.
Botanical Garden
Ulster Museum
There were several things I found
strange and commented on in my
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
7
letters home. For example, that the
shopkeepers spread their
merchandise out on to the street (this
would never do in the Icelandic
climate). I had never seen double
decker buses before, horses pulling
carts were also commonly seen on
the streets at this time. The
architecture was strange too, all
these red-brick houses with bay
windows and I admired the luxurious
growth everywhere, roses and big
trees.
At the end of the first week two girls
from England joined me in my room
at the YWCA, Kathleen and Daphne.
Kathleen was at Stranmillis College
but Daphne at Queen’s, they were
both in their second or third year.
Irish cottage
Kathleen had a grandmother living
in Macosquin. One weekend she
took me to visit her grandmother,
which was especially memorable
because she lived in a genuine
thatched Irish cottage, although I
don’t think I appreciated that it was
unusual at the time.
Three girls at the YWCA, I think
from Derry or Co. Derry, were
especially willing to show me
around Belfast and help me during
these first two weeks. Unfortunately
I don’t remember their names. They
taught me to use the buses and find
my way in the centre of Belfast
(“always look for the City Hall”!).
To me, Belfast was a big city,
Reykjavík was like a village in
comparison.
City Hall
Belfast, the big city!
These girls helped me to set up a
bank account and told me that the
manager “was very friendly when
you put money in but very sour
when you take it out” (they were
quite right!). They also helped me to
register with the immigration
authorities. This took several
attempts. I had to obtain a passport
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
8
photograph from a professional
photographer, and find out which
police station to go to. Finally I had
everything ready and went to the
correct police station to get a permit
and have my passport stamped.
When I started to explain my
business, the policeman at the
reception called out to his
colleagues: “Come and hear this
boys!” - my English was apparently
so entertaining!
The old library at QUB
An English girl, Caroline, took me
one day to look around the
University. Caroline must have had a
very superior English accent (I had
no ear for this) because the girls at
the YWCA used to make fun and
imitate her (to her face and good
naturedly) at tea time.
I was greatly impressed by the
University, all the different
buildings, some of them very old (to
my eye). Caroline showed me where
the zoology, botany and chemistry
departments were in the Kier
building and the physics department
near the main building, she also took
me to the old and new library and
showed me the “girls” common
room on (I think) University Square,
a sewing machine was available
there (!) and the new students’ union
building opposite the main building
which was just being built.
One thing that really surprised me
was the general interest in religion.
Everybody, sooner or later, asked me
about my religion (nobody would
have thought of this or been
interested in Iceland (we were all
Lutheran!)).
Students‘ Union
Every Sunday morning there was a
short service at the YWCA and if
you were a Christian you were
expected to attend (the Hindus and
the Muslims did not have to attend)
and after that you were expected to
go to church. Many even seemed to
go to church twice on a Sunday.
Another thing I took note of was
how people dressed up to go to
church and all the women wore hats.
Caroline told me that it was quite
scandalous not to wear a hat to
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
9
church but I might get away with
wearing a head scarf.
St. Ann‘s Cathedral in Belfast
Another new thing was that the
congregation joined in the singing, at
home only the church choir sang.
Being brought up in a 99% Lutheran
country I also found the variable
church communities confusing,
Presbyterians, Methodist, Church of
Ireland and Catholics etc. The girls
at the hostel always attended “their”
church and invited me to join them
which I did and got familiar with the
three protestant churches without
ever really understanding the
difference between them or how they
differed from the Lutheran church.
And my friends’ understanding of
the Lutheran church was also
obscure, one girl said to me: “Was
Luther not a German monk who
wanted to marry a nun so he started
to fight for the rights of the priests to
get married?”
Another thing that I found strange
was how obsessed everybody was
with food. The girls in the hostel
seemed to be thinking and talking
about food the whole time. If one of
them was invited for a meal
somewhere she had to give a
detailed report of what she had had
to eat and this was then discussed
and sighed over. This was not just at
the YWCA where the food was
maybe a bit limited and simple but
everywhere I went. On the whole I
liked the food I got, although I did
not like chips to begin with. What I
missed most was ordinary real coffee
and soups like my mother made!
I was very ignorant about Ireland, its
political history and the difference
between the south and the north. For
this reason I think I often “put my
foot in it” and was even
unintentionally rude.
Eskimo!
Similarly the people I met were
mostly ignorant about Iceland. They
seemed to think Iceland was near the
North Pole and were surprised that
we were independent and had our
own language. I was even asked
once, maybe as a joke, if I
considered myself an Eskimo.
However, some people knew all
about Iceland, this included several
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
10
students who had worked there in
fish during their holidays (and made
a lot of money!).
The seriousness of life begins
Freshers’ week was at the beginning
of October with various events put
on for the new students. I thought
the students, especially the boys,
were very young at 17 – 18 years
old, I was 21! Many of the boys had
long hair, Beatle-like, this was also
popular in Iceland.
One night we were invited to see
James Bond’s Dr No at the Whitla
Hall.
Freshers‘ entertainment
I was amazed by the audience
participation, I had never
experienced anything like it before -
or indeed since!
I had a meeting with my advisor of
studies during this week and
expressed my worries over my
language difficulties. He advised me
to ask somebody who was doing the
same subjects as I to use carbon
paper when taking notes during
lectures and give me a copy of the
notes. I asked a Scottish girl called
Moira, who was both very willing to
do this for me and kept excellent
notes for zoology, botany and
chemistry but I decided that I knew
enough physics to take the notes
there myself (big mistake!).
Most of my lectures and practical
lessons were in the Kier building on
the Stranmillis Road but physics was
taught near the main building and
this often meant running between the
two areas. The physics lectures were
a strange experience. Over 200 stud-
ents attended these and probably all
of them were only doing physics as
an extra subject, including the first
year medical students. There was
much noise, cat calls, papers, books
and even shoes flying through the
air.
The Kier building
The main lecturer finally had a
nervous breakdown and left but a
new one got through the rest of the
year somehow. It was not just me
who was surprised at this behaviour,
Moira and all the other biologists
were horrified.
In practical physics we worked in
pairs and in the first class I was
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
11
paired off with a boy. This was
quickly “corrected”, they apparently
thought that Magnadottir was a boy.
I loved zoology, especially the
practical classes and described
everything I did in some details in
my letters home! The course
followed a very classical
programme, starting with the
invertebrates.
On a field trip with Dr. Vivian Gotto (one of
my own rare photos!)
Many of the teachers were
memorable but especially Vivian
Gotto, who could be both amusing
and interesting and was also able to
keep the rowdiness of some of the
students at bay. He was actually also
a very significant scientist but we
tended to think that since he was also
a famous tennis player he could not
take science very seriously. A few
years ago Dr. Gotto, then 93 years
old, published a very interesting
autobiography.
The professor of the zoology
department was a Welsh man,
Professor Owen. He appeared from
time to time in our practical classes,
always very friendly and talkative
but after one class test he gave off to
us. He said his young daughter could
have passed this test easily but we
had more or less all failed hopelessly
and really must put in a greater effort
if we didn’t want to fail miserably at
the end of the year. Some of the girls
burst into tears!
Not all work though
There was often something special
on for foreign students, and some-
times I went with Caroline, Daphne
and Esther, an Indian girl from
Malaysia, to an open house at the
British Council. The Presbyterian
community centre was another
popular place where they sometimes
held a “hop” or a Céli, which was
similar to “old dancing” in Iceland.
Céli
As the term progressed I got to know
more girls at the YWCA and got
especially friendly with two girls
from Strabane, Maureen who was
doing physics and Dorothy who was
doing German and French, Monika,
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
12
a German girl doing exchange
teaching in Belfast and Elizabeth
(Liz) from near Ballymena who was
doing Chemistry and therefore often
in the Kier building too, I still keep
in touch with these 4 “girls” and
with Esther.
Esther, Maureen, Dorothy and Monika
42 years later: Dorothy, B., Monika and
Maureen
In 1964 there was quite a community
of Icelanders at Queens and we got
together quite frequently, and
sometimes went to the cinema or
concerts together. Two were doing
zoology, in their 2rd or 3th year, two
were doing Economics also in their
2rd or 3th year and one was doing
Geology, also near the end of his
study. Two of these had their wives
and children with them. One of the
married couples, Alfred and
Margret, lodged with an elderly lady
called Mrs Williams. She invited us
all to her home most Sunday nights
for supper and to play Scrabble or
watch TV, she never seemed to mind
if everybody spoke Icelandic for
most of the evening.
At Christmas most of the Icelanders
went home to Iceland for the
holiday. I had decided to experience
Christmas in Northern Ireland and I
also thought the cost of flying home
was too high. My room mates both
gave me Christmas presents which
came as a surprise to me (I can’t
remember if I gave them anything)
and another surprise was the number
of Christmas cards they sent, my
roommate Kathleen sent 108!
Guðny (wife of Haraldur, geology student) and
their daughter, Bergljót Anna and me.
Christmas Eve is the main
celebration day at Christmas in
Iceland and the Icelandic couple,
Alfred and Margret, invited me to
spend that day with them, eating
traditional Icelandic Christmas food
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
13
that they got sent from home. On
Christmas Day my advisor of studies
invited me to spend the day with him
and his family. They had four young
children and I watched Pantomime
on the TV with them and had turkey
for Christmas dinner with all the
traditional trimmings which I
thought was very good (never tasted
turkey before).
Between Christmas and the New
Year I went with Monika to Dublin
where we spent a few days, looking
around the sights, including Trinity
College.
Melrose Street
Monika had heard of a house for rent
in Melrose Street. She was very keen
to leave the YWCA and persuaded 5
others out of the hostel to go with
her. This was me and Esther, we
shared a room on the top floor,
Maureen and Dorothy shared a room
below and Monika and a friend of
hers, Elisabeth (not “my” Elisabeth
from Ballymena) had single rooms
on each floor. On the ground floor
was a sitting room, dining room and
a small kitchen. This was a peculiar
looking house, like a small tower,
the last remaining house of a
terraced row of houses standing on
its own.
It was decided that we would each
do our own food during the week but
on Sundays one of us would cook a
meal for the rest. This caused me
some anxiety since I felt I did not
know anything about cooking,
especially on gas cooker, which I
had never used. However, I don’t
think the others were any better at
this and we were always very
pleased with each other’s effort.
The Whitla Hall
In February there was a big
international festival in Whitla Hall
which included performances by
various foreign students at Queen’s
and other colleges (none from
Iceland!). Esther performed twice in
a dance with a group of Malasian
students. They danced with candles
and on the second night her hair
which was very long and plentiful,
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
14
caught fire causing a great shock and
panic in the house. Her photograph
appeared on the front page of the
Belfast Telegraph the next day, she
had lost quite a big lock of hair but
in the photograph this was far from
apparent, she had so much hair left.
An ice rink opened up in King’s Hall
in Balmoral in the New Year and I
went there quite often to skate, a
sport I loved at home. I hired the
skates this term but in the autumn I
brought my own skates from home.
Cliff Richard & The Shadows
During the Easter holiday I went
with some of the Icelanders to hear
Ella Fitzgerald and the Oscar Peter-
son band which was great. Ella was
near the end of her carrier then and
nearly blind (she did not walk on
stage but was standing at the piano
when the curtains went up). I also
went with some of the Icelanders to
a concert with Cliff Richard and the
Shadows. This was a strange
experience, the audience was divided
between screaming and fainting
teenage girls and heckling teenage
boys (about Cliff’s dubious sexuality
(according to my Icelandic friends)).
One concert I missed out on this
winter (in November), much to my
regret in later life. This was a
concert given by the Beatles in the
King’s Hall at the beginning of their
world fame. Their concerts were
known for being a complete sell-out
long in advance and a chaos of
shouting, crying and fainting girls. I
was offered tickets to go to this
concert and was greatly tempted
The Beatles
A ticket for the concert – found on the internet!
but at the same time I just hadn’t the
courage to go on my own (none of
my housemates wanted to go)!
Exams, hitch hiking and home
As the year progressed I started to
get more and more panicky about the
Bergljot Magnadottir, October 2015
15
exams, I was sure I would fail every
subject. I looked at the “Inverte-
brates” by Borrodaile, Potts et al.,
which was over 800 pages, and saw
that Professor Owen was right, really
I knew nothing. I spent practically
the whole of the Easter holidays,
which were 5 – 6 weeks, in the
library in the Kier building stewing
away. The older students in the
library said not to worry – it was
enough to read the notes from the
lectures but I did not believe them.
The exam time was nicely spaces out
and at the end of it I had a week or
more to wait for the results, I didn’t
want to go home before I knew the
worst. When the results came out I
discovered that I had passed
everything except physics – the one
subject where I had taken down my
own notes (I passed this in the
autumn). While I waited for the
results, two old school friends from
Iceland came to visit me. They had
been working as au pairs in England
and were on their way home. We
took a trip to Dublin and Cork, hitch
hiking all the time, that seemed to be
the normal way to travel in those
days, and stayed in Youth Hostels.
In Cork we hired bikes and cycled to
Blarney Castle. It was a hot day so
we decided to wear shorts. This
caused some commotion somewhere
on the way with women coming out
of their houses and shouting at us, so
in the end we decided to put our long
trousers back on again.
Valgerdur and Kristin, my friends from Iceland
Actually, the warden in the Youth
Hostel in Dublin had warned us
about wearing shorts, this was not
done in public places, but we did not
believe her.
Once the exam results were out, I
went home where I worked in a local
hotel for the summer to partly
finance my second year at Queen’s,
part of the cost was covered by the
student’s loan system in Iceland. I
finished my B.Sc. honours degree in
1969, a year later than it should have
been since I took a side step in my
third year and changed to micro-
biology. However, I found this was a
mistake and came back to zoology
again after the year.