mountain bigbend guideto4x4 theriverroad bikingtrails … · 2009-11-05 · papalote de la sierra...

By Karen Hoffman Blizzard

Whether you’re an advancedmountain biker or a physicallyfit novice, awesome newbackcountry adventures awaityou in Big Bend Ranch StatePark’s remote Fresno Canyon!This section of the park wasopened in 2009 thanks toTPWD’s purchase of theFresno Ranch inholdings withthe help of The NatureConservancy.

Depending on how much timeyou have, you can spend severaldays biking the park and useFresno Canyon as a naturalnorth-south corridor toconnect with the Rancherias,Solitario, Contrabando and OsoLoop trails. The park’sreservation system makes iteasy to plan multi-day tripsbecause you can reservespecific campsites and lodgingin advance.

T E X A S P A R K S A N D W I L D L I F E

Guide to 4X4High ClearanceRoadsPages 10 — 11

Tableofcontents

El Solitario is published twice per year by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park.

MountainBiking TrailsPage 4

Bike Fresno Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Be Aware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Featured Trails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Fees and Visitor Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Big Bend Ranch Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Access and Visitor Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Big Bend Student Art Goes International. . . . . . 9

Roads to Nowhere. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

A River Runs By It: The River Road . . . . . . . . . . 12

A 54-mile, two-day trip from theEast Contrabando Trailhead toSauceda and back offers a tasteof Fresno Canyon and the park’sincredible backcountry terrain.The old 4X4 Jeep roads, single-track spur trails, stunningscenery and cultural treasuresmake for great bikingadventures. SAG support ishighly recommended since thewayfinding signage is incomplete,and it’s difficult to carry all thewater needed to bike the 27miles of rugged terrain each day.

(continued on page 2)

View from the crest of the roadleading out of Fresno Canyon

Top: Dan Sholly and Karen Blizzard biking through BBRSP.

Bottom: Los Portales, a cavelike eye on the flatirons of the Solitario.

el SOLitarIoT E X A S P A R K S A N D W I L D L I F E D E P A R T M E N T | F A L L 2 0 0 9 | B I G B E N D R A N C H S TA T E P A R K

The River Road2

Big BendRanch SPpullout mapPages 6—7

Photo:DavidRiskind

Photo:DanSholly

Photo:DanSholly

BikeFresnoCanyon

Photo:DanSholly

2 | elSOLitarIo | Texasparksandwildlifedepartment

Bike Fresno Canyon(continued)

By Rod Trevizo, Superintendent

Welcome! Thanks to the TexasNature Conservancy and theestate of Jeanne Norsworthy,Fresno Ranch—7,000 acres ofwild canyons, springs, vistas,wildlife, historical roads andadditional Rio Grande frontage—now belongs to the park and tothe people of Texas.

In addition to the Fresno RanchHeadquarters, the acquisitionincludes lower Fresno Canyonand its tributaries, with richriparian and wetland resources,contrasting geological featuresand breathtaking vistas.

Fresno Canyon is open forhiking, horseback riding andmountain biking. Access requiresa backcountry permit forovernight use, obtained from theBarton Warnock Center, FortLeaton State Historical Site orthe Sauceda Ranger Station. Thesimplest way into the area beginsat the West ContrabandoTrailhead and Kiosk. Trail signswill lead you into Fresno Canyonand the adjacent ContrabandoDome Trail.

Please look through this issue ofEl Solitario and check out whatelse is new!

Welcome toBig Bend RanchState ParkEast Contrabando

Trailhead toSauceda (27 miles)

Get an early start since you’ll beriding all day! You can obtain apark permit and safety informationat the BartonWarnock Visitor’sCenter (they open at 8:00 a.m.),located at the southeast corner ofthe park on FM 170, about a milefrom Lajitas. Then, cross the roadto the small parking lot at the EastContrabando Trailhead, whereyou’ll begin and end your ride.

The first few miles are smooth asyou ride toward Fresno Canyon,into a majestic world of moun-tains, arroyos and springs. Mybiking partner, TPWD StateParks Deputy Director DanSholly, offered some sage adviceearly on, which I didn’t alwaysheed but should have: “Start slow,and taper off!” As I found out, it’ssuper-easy to get overheatedbiking in the desert.

Eight miles from the trailhead,you’ll move into lower FresnoCanyon with its culturalreminders of the NativeAmericans, explorers, ranchersand miners who came before.Along the way are junctures withhistoric roads that TPWDplanners are retracing andconverting to multiuse trails. Tothe right is the now-defunctWhit-Roy cinnabar mine, whereyou can explore the ruins andpeer down the old mine shaft.

At 10.6 miles the shelteringcottonwoods of “Fresno Falls”beckon at a beautiful oasis nearthe convergence of Fresno Creekwith Arroyo Primero. Here, thepebbly creekbed gives way tosmooth, water-worn rock etcheddeeply by the creek. Rock sheltersand bedrock mortar sites indicate

this was once a gathering placefor Native Americans. Twomiles further is the historicCrawford-Smith Ranch site.Motorized vehicle access fromBarton Warnock Center toCrawford Smith Ranch is notpermitted. SAG drivers canonly reach the site by travelingstate highway 170 to the westand then entering the parkfrom the Presidio side. A 4X4 isrequired to get to CrawfordSmith from the upper reachesof Fresno Canyon.

In upper Fresno Canyon you’llencounter some serious hills.Jutting upward to the northeastlie the brooding flatirons of ElSolitario (see p. 12). Los Portales,a cavelike “eye” in the side of aflatiron, will stare you down asyou bike past the west side of theSolitario rim. Check out thenearby Native American rockshelter site, “Manos Arriba”(Hands Up), with its pictographsof upward-turned handprints onthe ceiling.

Next, it’s the three-mile FresnoHill “mountain stage.” Hang inthere; it’s worth the climb! Atthe top, you can speed alongthe last few miles to Sauceda,to settle in for the evening atthe Big House and enjoy itslarge kitchen, dining area andscreened-in porch. The Saucedabunkhouse is a nice option iftraveling with a large group.

DAY

1Sauceda to EastContrabandoTrailhead (27 miles)

Bike south out of Sauceda alongMadrid Road for about six miles,and then begin a rocky descentdown the back side of MadridHill. At about 13.8 miles is MadridHouse, named for rancher AndresMadrid, who settled the area inthe mid-19th century. There is asensitive raptor nesting areanearby, which may be closed offduring spring nesting seasons.It’s always advisable to inquireabout park closures beforeplanning a visit.

Continue through Arroyo Primero,rejoining the trail to meet FresnoFalls and head south throughFresno Canyon. For the rest of theafternoon, retrace your paththrough Lower Fresno Canyon,past the mine, onto the maintrail leading back to the trailheadwhere you started the ride.

The last eight miles are a temptingstretch of trail, but don’t go toofast if it’s a hot day! I made thatmistake in 110 degrees, and quicklyfelt as if I were melting in aconvection oven. When you getback to the trailhead, take sometime to relax in the air-condition-ing at the Barton Warnock Centerand browse the book store.Chances are, you’ll feel exhausted,yet fully awake. Big Bend RanchState Park has that effect: it’sunforgiving … and unforgettable.

DAY

2

Water requirements: 200 – 220ounces of water per day whileriding (the equivalent of twolarge Camelbacks)

Plan ahead of time: Advanceplanning is critical. Obtain mapsand study them before going.Get your bike and gear together,arrange for guide services andSAG support, and be sure youhave containers large enough tocarry sufficient water. Hard-soledshoes are recommended for

IF YOU GO walking in rocky arroyos and

creekbeds. A GPS unit is helpful.

ALWAYS CARRY TWO SPARES.

Access: Obtain a park permit from

the Barton Warnock Visitor’s Center

in Lajitas (432-424-3327); Fort

Leaton State Historic Site in

Presidio (432-229-3613); or

Sauceda Ranger Station inside the

park (432-358-4444). Hours are

8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. every day.

Allow time for a mandatory

orientation session (about 15

minutes). There are minimal day-use

and camping fees.

Maps and trail guides: Visit the

TPWDWeb site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us)

before going. A limited supply may be

available at the park. Other online

map sources include Google Earth,

USGS (www.usgs.gov) and TNRIS

maps (www.tnris.state.tx.us).

Commercial outfitters: Terlingua-

based Desert Sports (432-371-2489)

is the nearest outfitter and guide

service. SAG and guide support are

highly recommended for multi-day

trips through the park. Bikes are

available for rent at commercial

outfitters and at the park.

Park lodging: Campsites availableby advance reservation. Findcampsite descriptions, photos andGPS coordinates atwww.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch.The Big House and bunkhouse atSauceda are available by advancereservation (432-358-4444).

Lodging outside the park: LajitasResort and Spa (www.lajitas.com)offers 103 rooms, a restaurant, spaand pool. Chinati Hot Springs(www.chinatihotsprings.com) offerssustainably designed cabins, acommunity kitchen, a “cool pool,”and hot-spring pools.

Photo:KarenBlizzard

Photo:KarenBlizzard

bigbendranchstatepark | elSOLitarIo | 3

Head‘emup, move‘emout!

Many wonderful animalslive here and play a vitalrole in the balance ofnature. You are a guest intheir home. By learningabout the park’s animalsand observing the followingtips, you can show themthe respect they deservewhile keeping yourself andyour family safe.

Rattlesnakes are especiallycommon at Big Bend Ranch.Watch where you put yourhands and feet. Never harassor attempt to handle arattlesnake—this is when mostbites occur. Rattlesnakes areprotected in the park; do themno harm.

Never feed wild animals orallow them to get human orpet food.

Observe wild animals andlonghorn cattle from a safedistance; never approach ortry to photograph them atclose range.

Keep children and pets underyour control at all times.

Clean up and store food andgarbage immediately after meals;never keep food in your tent.

Enjoy the outdoors withothers, not alone.

In the unlikely event that youencounter a black bear ormountain lion, do not run.Instead, face the animal, makenoise and try to look as largeas possible. Pick up smallchildren. Back away slowly. Ifattacked, fight back. Reportsightings to park staffimmediately.

Be Aware:For your safety and welfare

BundyPhillips’Las BurrasBicycleAdventure

The following is excerpted fromBundy Phillips’ notes of his near-disaster in a Big Bend Ranchtorrential rain and lighteningstorm. Bundy would say, “It’sonly an adventure if you surviveit” — and fortunately he did.Phillips is a seasoned NationalPark Service ranger, now retired,with decades of backcountrybiking, hiking and campingexperience. His story details whatcan happen to even the mostexperienced mountain bikers in awild place like Big Bend Ranch.

“This morning, May 22, weatherpretty nice and not threatening,puffy clouds, little thunderheadbuildup. Biked down toward theLas Burras Trailhead. West ofLas Burras saw big, black anddown funnel of rain over Presidio.The puffy clouds rapidly becameblack clouds, accompanied byapproaching thunder and light-ning. By then I was down by LasBurras Trailhead. I turned tailand headed back. Lightning andthunder popping all around thenearby peaks, very close by andover Bofecillos Mountain. Rainbegan … drip, drip, drip, drip.Then I was suddenly surroundedby dozens of lightning strikes,very close.

Lightning, then immediatethunder. This storm was right ontop of me. I hunkered down behindthe Nopalera Trailhead concretewater trough. I left my bike in themiddle of the road; no need to liedown next to a metal bike frameturned lightning rod. At first it didnot seem too dangerous. Beganthinking: please stop, give me abreak. Very hard rain and wind,luckily no hail. I’m lying face downbehind the concrete trough; wateris rushing into my mouth and I’mlying in several inches of a fast-moving runoff. I’m drifting offthinking that maybe they’ll findmy dead carcass tomorrow, ormaybe the next day. I always carrymy driver’s license for identifica-tion ... maybe this time it will beput to good use.

Had to get up and move; I’mgetting cold. There is absolutely noplace to get out of the weather,

WesternDiamondbackrattlesnake

Photo:EarlNottingham

In the unlikelyevent that a snakebite occurs:

• Remove jewelry and loosentight-fitting clothing.

• Wash the bite area withdisinfectant.

• Keep the person calmand quiet.

• Limit movement if atall possible.

• Watch for symptomsof shock.

• Seek medical attentionimmediately.

+

except maybe behind a creosotebush. Ha, I laugh to myself. TheNopalera Road had a foot of water,almost covering my bike. Impossibleto ride in a foot of water; beganpushing bike in moderate rain backup the road toward the truck. Rainis moderate. Finally, I can ride abit. Stumble through mud, sandand rocks, mostly covered withrunoff. Feels good to get back on;riding helps the circulation and Ifeel warmer … but not much. Allwashes that cross the road arefilled, most with a foot of water,some with more.

I can’t believe the amount of water— it is unbelievable — and I thinkabout the campers that checked intoday, whether the roads theydrove over are now flooding. I amcloser to getting out … maybe. Ireally don’t believe that, either —crossed several washes flowingknee-deep that nearly snatched mybike out of my hands. The last fewwashes are flooding, so I take tothe Longhorn cattle trails.

The truck! Wow, I made it back.Can’t feel my fingers … get out ofwet clothes and into something dry.The storm is passing; it is beautifulnow. Head back to Sauceda in4WD through major rocks — sandand mud over the road — someflowing water up to the runningboards. Crossed Levya close to theBig House at Sauceda; looks likewater was 5 to 6 feet deep. But I’vemade it. Lived to see anotherglorious day at Big Bend Ranch.”

BUNDY’S Take -home messages:

1. Learn about Big Bend weather,particularly rain storms andflash floods. Ask for and followthe advice of locals;

2. Tell someone where you’re goingand when you’ll be back;

3. Maintain your bike and takeproper repair supplies;

4. Have a backup plan if theweather turns bad;

5. Try not to do anythingdangerous like wading acrossflooding washes and creekbeds.

Bundy Phillips biking the Horsetrap Trail

!Weekend wranglers have a chance eachspring and fall to participate in theRanch’s cattle drive, when the TexasLonghorn herd is moved with horses fromremote pastures to stock pens at Sauceda.This three-day event includes ranch-stylefood and accommodations, plus plenty oftime in the saddle.

For information, call the Sauceda RangerStation at (432) 358-4444.


ContrabandoMulti-Use Trailhas two trailheads,one located directlyacross the highway from BartonWarnock EnvironmentalEducation Center near Lajitasand a second located 7.5 milesto the west along F.M. 170.Regardless of your skill level,this 25-mile trail system offersa segment or side loop that issuitable for you — from noviceto advanced. Watch for horses:this trail is open to equestrianstoo. Enjoy spectacular views asyou encircle the red rock ofLajitas Mesa or the upliftedContrabando Dome. Along thetrail, watch for wayside exhibitsthat interpret the area’s miningand ranching heritage.

The word “contrabando” isSpanish for “contraband.” Fordecades, smugglers traversedwhat is now known as theContrabando region along theeastern boundary of Big BendRanch State Park. In the early1900s, area ranchers soughtMexican cattle to bolster theirherds; some brought animalsacross the border illegally toavoid custom fees. During the1930s, huge amounts ofcandelilla wax slipped acrossthe border as well. Waxsmugglers escaped heavyMexican export taxes andprofited from higher prices inthe U.S. Then, duringprohibition, mule trainsbrought great quantities ofsotol, an alcoholic beverage,out of Mexico to the U.S.border, where it was deliveredto bootleggers.

MOUNTAIN BIKINGContrabando multi-use andHorsetrap bike-and-hike

Horsetrap Bike-and-Hike Trailis easily accessiblefrom Sauceda.Hikers will find thetrail an easy five-mile loop withvistas of the surroundingChihuahuan Desert. Formountain bikers the degree ofdifficulty ranges from moderateto downright challenging. A200-yard portion of the trail issandy. Enjoy this “off the beatenpath” experience as you soak upthe solitude and the scenery.

25miles

5miles

The Encino Loop Trail, locatedin the interior of Big BendRanch State Park, follows anold jeep trail nearly nine milesthrough a remote portion ofthe Encino Pasture. This wide,easy-to-follow trail offers oppor-tunities for hiking and mountainbiking, birding and photography.An easy hike and a moderatelystrenuous mountain-bikingexperience, the trail offers greatviews of ancient lava domes,rugged mesas and colorfuldesert vegetation.

During the spring and earlysummer, look for the desertwildflowers that decorate theharsh landscape. Be alert forjavelinas rooting through thelechuguilla as you listen tothe songs of Black-tailedGnatcatcher, Verdin and Black-throated Sparrow. Pay closeattention to the animal tracksthat appear in sandy arroyobottoms and you just might seea coyote ambling away.

The trail loop begins 1.5 mileseast of the Sauceda VisitorCenter at the junction ofCamino a la Sauceda and LaMota Road, just past the cattleguard. The first mile of thetrail follows La Mota Road, sowatch carefully for vehicles.Views include the shallow hillsof Leyva Canyon to the west,La Mota Mountain to thenorth, Fresno Peak to the eastand several volcanic domes tothe south. At 1.01 miles thetrail leaves the road and veersto the northeast.

At two miles the trail entershilly terrain where canyonsdissect the landscape. Look forseverely distorted and twistedrock outcrops — evidence of thegeologic forces that have long

FEATURED TRAILS

Encino Hiking andBiking Trail

A group of middle- and high-school students meander through low hills,ocotillo forests and along ancient streambeds on the Encino Loop Trail.

shaped the region. At 3.0 to 3.5miles you will pass acres ofocotillo, a hardy plant alsoknown as desert candle.

Papalote Encino (EncinoWindmill), the largest windmillat Big Bend Ranch, comes intoview at the four-mile mark.Relics from decades of ranchingactivities litter the ground, par-ticularly those associated withpeople’s attempts to harnesswater in the desert.

Between 4.2 and 5.0 miles thetrail veers to the right andfollows the main ranch road.Watch for vehicles. At 5.1 miles,enjoy an excellent view of LaPosta Mountain with FresnoPeak set as a lofty backdrop. At5.3 miles, the Encino trail leavesthe road once again andcontinues to the right. Aheadlies a commanding view of theLlano, a slightly depressed plainthat recharges the undergroundwater supply during the rainyseason. Travel along this routeis fairly easy — mostly level witha slight downhill dip.

Between 6.1 and 7.5 miles thetrail continues through a seriesof arroyos and gullies. In one ofthe bigger arroyos, watch for alarge cluster of quartz crystalsthat resembles a mound of icecubes. At 6.8 miles the countrybegins to open back up, and at7.5 miles the trail changesdirection to the northeast. Becareful in these areas; manyarroyos are covered with loosesand and gravel.

At 8.8 miles the route intersectswith La Mota Road. Turn to theleft and return to the beginningof the trailhead.

BackcountryZone Camping

There are no designatedcampsites in the backcountryzone. Backcountry campingallows overnight visitors toselect their own primitivecampsite, based uponcertain conditions:

• At least 1/4 mile from anyother existing campsite

• At least 300 feet fromwater sources andprehistoric or historiccultural sites

• At least 3/4 mile fromtrailheads or roads

Backcountry campers may usethe “cathole” method todispose of human waste andmust pack out all trash. Noopen fires are allowed due toresource impact; use of con-tainerized fuel stoves ispermitted. The maximum stayis 14 nights (total) and sevenconsecutive days in any onebackcountry zone.

Views of Contrabando Waterhole andruins from a 1890s ranch await youon the Contrabando Trail.


Daily entry fee:$3 per person perday for all 13 yearsand older

Standard VehicleCampsite:$8 per site/day

BackcountryZone Camping:$5 per night/site

Horses:$2 per day/horseNo dump station in park.No hook-ups in park.

LodgingLodging is available bunkhousestyle or in the “Big House” atSauceda. Meals are availablewith advance reservations.

Call (432) 358-4444 between8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. forinformation and reservations.

AirstripBig Bend Ranchpaved airstrip 3TE3

103-56-11.7030 W28-28-10.6840 N

Elevation: 4240 feetLength: 5500 feet

Park Information and PermitsPark information and permits for day use and camping may be obtained inperson from 8:00 a.m. — 4:30 p.m. daily at three locations:

Sauceda Ranger Station Barton Warnock EnvironmentalPark interior Education Center(432) 358-4444 Lajitas

(432) 424-3327Fort Leaton StateHistoric SitePresidio(432) 229-3613

Special-use permits are required for use of Primitive Road and all camping.Day Use visitors are required to obtain a free, special-use permit formotorized use of primitive roads.

Campsite and backcountry reservations may be made in advance by calling(432) 358-4444 between 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Permits must be pickedup in person.

Use ZonesFront Country Zone is defined as those lands within approximately one-quarter mile either side of the designated 2WD roads. All street-legal andlicensed vehicles are permitted in this zone. Overnight use may occur onlyat designated campsites, with the required, special-use permit.

Primitive Road Zone is defined as lands within one-quarter mile eitherside of designated 4WD or 2WD high-clearance roads. Motorized vehicleaccess to this zone is restricted to street-legal and licensed vehicles.Overnight use may occur only at designated campsites, with the required,special-use permit.

Backcountry Zones are defined as lands that are more than one-quartermile from publicly accessible roads. Twenty separate zones have beendefined. Only non-motorized travel is permitted. Visitors are encouraged,though not required, to use designated trails and routes until they areknowledgeable and confident enough in their familiarity with the park totravel cross-country.

Big Bend Ranch State ParkFees and visitor services

Important:OrientationFront Country ZoneDay Use Only

Appropriate orientationmaterials will beprovided, depending onthe visitor’s intendedactivities and areas ofinterest at the park.

Primitive Road orBackcountry ZoneDay or Overnight Use

The viewing or reviewingof comprehensiveorientation materials andinformation is required.This material willintroduce the park, theChihuahuan Desert,safety, water use, vehiclerequirements, land ethics,etc. Orientation isrequired annually.

No gas, dieselor groceriesavailable in park.

Cell phone service inthe park is unreliableand limited.

911 service is 2 to 3hours away.

Best course of action is tocall SaucedaRangerStation at (432) 358-4444or go to SaucedaRangerStation; ask for help.

Emergency services

Photo:FresnoCanyon,E.DanKlepper

BBRSP’s new Friends GroupCompadres del Rancho Grande!

The group’s objectiveis to assist in meet-ing the needs of theBBRSP complex,including the BartonWarnock Environ-

mental Center, Big Bend Ranch StatePark, Fort Leaton, and Chinati StateNatural Area, through your volunteerand financial support.

Please join us today as a member orvolunteer! Donations and/or contactinformation can be sent to :

Comprades del Ranch GrandeP.O. Box 314601 N. State StreetFort Davis, Texas 79734

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Know Your VehicleSome roads are suitable only for high-clearance or four-wheel-drivevehicles. If you have any questions about the roads or the suitability of yourvehicle, consult a park ranger.

• Two-wheel-drive (2WD): main road and some spurs that any highway-worthy vehicle, driven responsibly, can access.

• Two-wheel-drive, high-clearance (2WDHC): roads where extraclearance is required due to road conditions (rocks, steep dips, etc.).

• Four-wheel-drive (4WD): recommended where extra traction is requiredon steep, loose or soft ground. Includes all-wheel drive (AWD).

• Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance (4WDHC): primitive roads or routesharsher then 4WD, where passage requires vehicles with extra traction,rigid suspension and high clearance.

High clearance is considered a minimum of 8 inches.

Rules for the Road Less TraveledPark roads are dirt and may be narrow. Speed limit is 25 mph on primarypark roads. Drive slowly to keep yourself, your passengers, your vehicleand the park’s animals safe.

When should 4WD be engaged? Generally speaking, once you leave themaintained road, shift from 2WD into 4WD and leave it there untilreturning to the maintained road. Use 4WD low before you need tonegotiate any really difficult obstacles.

Take care of your tires. On primitive roads, the number one trouble is tirefailure, often sidewall punctures. Drive slowly and watch for sharp rocks,sticks and cactus. Carry fix-a-flat, a lug wrench, hydraulic jack and towstrap. A good spare is essential; two spares are recommended.

Always carry an extra 5 gallons of water.

Beware of brush. The woody bushes of the desert are extremely hard andcan produce nasty scratches in your vehicle’s paint.

NOTE: A special-use permit is required for travel on all BBRSP roads2WDHC and beyond.

Big Bend Ranch State ParkAccess and visitor servicesVehicle-AccessibleCampingForty-nine locations have beendesignated for vehicle-accessiblecamping. Permits are required.Each site includes a tent area,picnic table and fire ring. Somecampsites are still underdevelopment and may temporarilylack some amenities.

Campers are required to placetents in designated areas only.Desert resources are fragile.Important: All visitors arerequired to haul out their humanwaste and pack out all trash.

Portable privies are available forpurchase at all permit-issuingstations.

Downed wood is critical to desertecology. Gathering firewood isprohibited. Visitors may bringtheir own firewood or purchase itat Sauceda. Charcoal cooking firesand containerized fuel stoves areallowed. Ashes must be packedout or deposited in the fire ring.The maximum stay per permit is14 nights.

Individual Campsites

• Up to 8-person occupancy• 3-vehicle limit

Group Campsites


Equestrian Staging Campsites


Campsites at Campgrounds

• 3-vehicle limit

PetsPets are allowed anywhere vehiclesare allowed, and within 1/4 mile ofpublicly accessible roads. Alwayskeep pets on a leash and pick up afterthem. Never leave pets unattended orallow them to approach wild animalsor longhorn cattle.

Food and LodgingThe lodge at Sauceda is abunkhouse with a commercialkitchen. Meals are prepared andserved in a common dining area.Meal service can be arrangedwith advance notice. Lodging isavailable bunkhouse style withmen on one side and women onthe other. The three-bedroom “BigHouse” sleeps eight. The Big Househas a full kitchen, or meals may betaken at the Bunk House. Pets arenot allowed in either. For infor-mation, rates and reservations,call (432) 358-4444 between8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m.

Enjoy the Park(and Live to Tell About It)The beauty of Big Bend Ranch liesin its rugged remoteness. You areresponsible for your own personalsafety while at the park. Stay alert,read posted materials and consulta ranger for advice.

Stay cool. Desert heat can kill, andsunburn is no fun. While enjoyingthe park, be sure to use sunscreen.Wear a long-sleeved shirt, longpants, a broad-brimmed hat andsunglasses. Avoid strenuousoutdoor activities during thehottest part of the day. Alwaysdrink plenty of water.

Water is life. If you wait untilyou’re thirsty to drink, you’vewaited too long. Carry andconsume at least 1 gallon ofwater per person per day toavoid dehydration. Drinking wateris available at the visitor center.

Weather the weather. In a lightningstorm, seek shelter inside abuilding or a vehicle with a roof. Donot stand under trees or in shallowcaves, and avoid high ground. Stayaway from water, wire fences andmetal railings, which can carrylightning from a distance.

Stay high and dry. Dry creek bedscan quickly become raging torrentsdue to rainfall far upstream. Becautious when hiking in stream-beds. Never cross rain-swollencreeks or washes. Be aware thattemperatures can fluctuate by50 degrees per day at the park,and dress accordingly. Stay dryto prevent hypothermia.

Don’t go it alone. Tell someoneyour plans and estimated returntime. Avoid exploring alone. Cellphone service is spotty at best; donot rely upon it. Always haveplenty of water and food with you.

Road conditions are affected by rain and runoff and willvary widely. Check with a ranger for conditions on arrival.

Medical ServicesCell phone service in the park is unreliable and limited. No medical facilitiesare available in the park. The nearest hospital is located in Alpine, aboutthree hours’ drive from Sauceda. In event of emergency, contact or go toSauceda Ranger Station for help.

+


Big Bend Student ArtGoes International!

Presidio High School art teacherLaurel Holman explained, “Sooften in my class the studentswant to paint beach scenes,cityscapes and snow-coveredmountains, places that most ofthem have never seen or been tobefore. I tell them to paint whatthey know, to see their sur-roundings in a new and differentway. So, this is what they didand with great success.”

A talented artist in her ownright, Laurel learned about theSaatchi Gallery, which aims toprovide a forum for largelyunknown young internationalartists whose work has beenrarely or never exhibited. Shedecided to enter her students’work in the competition toshare a little bit of Texas withthe international community.“We are bringing Big BendRanch to the rest of theworld!” she said.

Presidio High School student artists at Fort Leaton State Historic Site. Front row: teacher Laurel Holman,Leo Sotelo, Adrian Madrid. Middle: Erik Zuniga, Genaro Galindo, Daisy Perez, Uriel Uranga, Mayra Moreno,Karime Baeza, Judith Pardo. Back: Zenia Sanchez, Alan Pando, Fernando Suarez.

Artwork by 11 aspiring student artists from Presidio went on display last summer at theSaatchi Art Gallery in London, England. Presidio High School was chosen from over1,500 schools worldwide in a competition overseen by the gallery. The artwork focusedon the beauty of the Big Bend region, with particular emphasis on Big Bend Ranch StatePark and Fort Leaton State Historic Site.

Know beforeyou goMulti-Use TrailsSome of the park’s trails aresuitable for hiking only. Othertrails are available for mountainbikers and equestrians also.Speak with a park rangerfor details and use options.Remember to take plenty ofwater, regardless of your activity!

BikingWhen biking, always wear ahelmet and protective clothing.Carry plenty of water and twospare tires. Know your ability andlimits. Bike rentals are availableat Sauceda Ranger Station.

Horseback RidingAll pack-and-saddle stockusers must obtain abackcountry use permit,whether for day use orovernight. Equestrians mustbring their own weed-freehorse feed. All horses musthave documentation of acurrent Coggins test.

River AccessThe Rio Grande provides oppor-tunities for rafting, kayaking,canoeing and free bank fishing.Several river access points arefound along F.M. 170. ColoradoCanyon includes Class IIand Class III rapids — notconsidered dangerous undernormal flow conditions.

OutfittersLocal outfitters can provideguides and assist you withequipment needs. Potentialservices may includenature/birding hikes, mountainbiking tours, horseback rides,river trips and campouts.

Adrian Madrid, 11th gradeEl Rancho Grande

“My inspiration is the lifestyle ofthe people around here. I paintwhat the people do and the WestTexas landscape. I paint what I seeand what I know.”

Daisy Perez, 10th gradeEl Fortin at Sunset

“I was in a bad mood and I wantedto do something simple. When Ifinished with the fort, I felt a littlebetter, but my mind was still cloudy… so I drew the cloudy sky!”

Fernando Suarez, 9th gradeBecerros

“My painting is of two baby longhorncalves (becerros) that are out at theBig Bend Ranch. I chose this subjectbecause it reminded me of my familyand where I come from.”

Leo Sotelo, 11th gradeTexas Longhorn

“My inspiration came from myranch in Mexico and also from theidea that this particular longhorn isstill out at the Big Bend Ranch.”

Genaro Galindo, 9th gradePlayboy

“I was inspired because I lovehorses. This came from aphotograph of a horse out at BigBend Ranch that one of thevaqueros rides, which representsmy Mexican culture.”

Karime Baeza, 11th gradeChiles and Ajo

“I really did not know what to drawwhen we were given the assignmentby Ms. Holman. I chose the redchiles because of my culturalinfluence.”

Uriel Uranga, 12th gradeOcotillo Sunset

“Being that I am moving away soonto go to college, I will no longerhave surroundings like the BigBend. I wanted to preserve thememory of my roots.”


History – There have beentrails and travel routes forpeople in the Big Bend for over10,000 years. In early historictimes Spanish explorers enteredthe region. The military scoutedand blazed trails throughout thearea, including the famousEchols’ Camel expedition thatused Terneros Creek. Earlytraders first used wagons on theChihuahua Trail, part of whichtraversed Alamito Creek, inwhat is now the northwesternarea of Big Bend Ranch StatePark (BBRSP). By the 1890s,ranching and mining had begunin earnest, and by the firstdecade of the 20th century thefirst motor vehicles began usingthe old wagon roads. Additionalroads were established with theinvention of the bulldozer andhardier 4X4 trucks. The roadswhich are now within BBRSPwere constructed to supportpublic commerce andsettlement, fence building,waterline construction, livestockproduction, and for mineralprospecting and mining.

Today -When BBRSP wasestablished in 1988 there wereapproximately 700 miles of theseold “ranch and mining” roadswithin the park, and about 50miles of the roads were keptopened to support public use. In2008, the BBRSP Public UsePlan was approved. Today this

plan allows for 153 miles of roadto be used by park visitors. Ofthese, nearly 70 miles areunmaintained and available forthose adequately prepared. Allroads in BBRSP are dirt.

All roads are not created equal!See page 8 for descriptions of thefour types of roads in BBRSP.

4WDHC – Unmaintained –These roads are not maintainedexcept by the users. Roads arenot brushed and may not bepassable. Users may need to usepick and shovel to fix somesections, especially creekcrossings or eroded areas.Desert pin-striping (brushscratches) is likely.

A guide to“unmaintained”4X4high-clearance roads in Big Bend Ranch SP

The “4WDHC – unmaintained”roads provide a different kind ofopportunity for park users.There are approximately 70miles of park roads that are notmaintained, but which areavailable for visitors to travel attheir own risk. These roads willlead visitors to less-traveled, andin most cases, very remote andbeautiful desert landscapes.Unmaintained roads in BBRSPare not considered “extreme4X4.” There is no rock crawlingor rating system, and not everymile requires 4X4. These roadssimply are not maintained,which means they are rougherand more difficult andchallenging to travel.

Unmaintained roads of BBRSPshould only be attempted byexperienced 4X4 drivers, witha capable vehicle and adequate“self-rescue” equipment. Theseroads are not patrolled on aregular basis. You are prettymuch “on your own” should youhave a problem.

roadsto“Wedon’t needno stinkin’pavement.”Anonymous (apologies to thescreenwriters of “The Treasure ofthe Sierra Madre”)

Special preparationhighly recommended!Basic equipment recommenda-tion for travel on unmaintainedroads of BBRSP:

•Two well-maintained 4X4 high-clearance vehicles. It is alwayssafer to travel in pairs.

• 6-ply tires - absolute minimum

• Two inflated spare tires

• Plenty of fuel (there is NO fuelfor sale in BBRSP)

• Shovel and pick

• Rock bar

• High-lift jack-at least 48 inches

• Heavy-duty nylon recovery strap(3”wide x 20’ long - no hooks)

• 10’ chain with hooks

• Tool kit

• Abundant drinking water(at least 5 gallons extra)

• Food for at least two days

• Work gloves

• Good maps of the area

• GPS with extra batteries

• First aid kit

• 4-way lug wrench

• Air pump

By David RiskindandDan Sholly

Road guidesavailable uponrequest.!

Photo:DavidRiskind

Photo:JamesKing

Photo:MarkLockwood


For a great “outback” roadtrip:Roads may be overgrown withthe ubiquitous white-thornacacia or other desert shrubs,and your vehicle will be exposedto desert pin-striping. Yourtrusty steed will get scratchedand very dirty. Those who chooseto drive unmaintained BBRSProads (Special Use Permitrequired) may have to fill thewashout, rut or track toprogress. If your four-wheeldrive goes out, you may getstuck. You must use these roadsever-mindful of the consequencesof your driving skill and beprepared for self-extraction.

These roads are old ranch roadsfor the most part. They wereinstalled with economy of effort.They are short wheel-base roadswhere a high angle of attack isrequired. If you have a bighonking front bumper orrunning boards, or a receiverhitch with a removable three-ball setup, be prepared to eithermodify your rig or get stuck in asteep, short dip. If your vehicle’sexhaust tailpipe hangs low and isnot up and out of the way, it isgoing to get rearranged! If yourtowing wiring harness is notstowed and secured, you’ll lose it.

LOAD RANGE E TIRES arestrongly recommended. If youhave standard 4-ply tread/2-plypolyester sidewalls, stay home.Six-ply tires are recommendedas an absolute minimum.

Bring two spares! Leave thejack that came with your vehicleat home. You’ll need a high-liftjack with a bottle-jack added forgood measure. Make sure youhave something on your vehicleto affix your jack to. Lots of

factory or even after-marketaccessory bumpers are NOTSUITABLE for the applicationyou will need for BBRSP roads.Best to practice at home beforeyou get backcountry. Flats doNOT HAPPEN at convenientspots, and you can be sure thatat BBRSP they will not happenon level ground. To change a tireyou may have to jack AND digand level your vehicle for safety.

Bring abundant drinking waterin sturdy containers in additionto personal canteens. Have agallon with you at all times.Even if you do not plan to campout, bring high-energy,

nutritious snack foods—at leasta two-day supply for everyone.

BEFORE you come to BBRSP,make sure your vehicle is in goodshape mechanically. Make sure allyour tires are aired fully. Stowyour gear so that it does notbounce around. Strap downeverything that has a sharp point.

THERE IS NO GAS ORDIESEL AVAILABLE INTHE PARK INTERIOR. Gasup and top off before you driveinto BBRSP. Fuel is available atPresidio, Lajitas and StudyButte only.

Unmaintained roads available foradventure travel on BBRSP areshown on the facility maps in ElSolitario and elsewhere at parkvisitor centers or informationkiosks. Access to unmaintainedroads will be by permit only.Check in at Warnock, Ft. Leatonor Sauceda Ranger Station toobtain a permit.

There are some ranch roads thatare NOT AVAILABLE for publicvehicular access. Park roads

open to 4WDHC vehicles arenot designed for H1 or H2Hummers — if you have one ofthese that you are itching touse, it is likely that it WON’TFIT the tread width of ourranch roads. Consequently, youmay experience more roadsidebrush and greater exposure toroad hazards.

Generally speaking, cell phonecoverage in most areas atBBRSP is almost nonexistent.However, in the Cienega area—the northwest portion of thepark—there is good coverage. Forextra safety, a satellite phone isrecommended. The only local

extraction and mechanic serviceis in Presidio: Rio GrandeWrecker Service. (432) 229-3312or, after hours (432) 229-3740.

TPWD staff will do their best toassist park visitors, but it ispossible that the services of aprofessional tow truck ormechanic may be required. Thatcan be quite expensive.

nowhereAdditional safetyadmonitions:• WEAR YOUR SEATBELT,especially if you are in the backseat.

• When jacking your vehicle alwayschock your wheels.

• When making vehicle repairs onsloping terrain be especiallymindful of helpers/watchers thatmay be down slope.

• The high-lift jack can hurt ormaim you. Be careful; weargloves. WHEN LOWERING JACK,consider using hammer or rock torelease action.

• If your repair or extraction takesa while, and the weather is hotand sunny, consider setting ashade tarp. Mistakes are madewhen you overheat or are tired.

• Always, always grip yoursteering wheel firmly with twohands. This is especiallyimportant where there are steepdrop-offs. A large rock or otherroad hazard can jerk your wheelssuddenly with dire consequences.

• Bad shocks, especially in front,can make your vehicle bounce,slip and slide sideways on slopes.

• Use a spotter.

• Try very hard to avoid spinningyour tires-sharp rocks cutthrough tires.

• Without fail, bring a map: ideally,a USGS 7.5 minute topo quadsheets. They can save your life.Limited copies are available forsale at Sauceda Ranger StationTrading Post.

• Be especially mindful of thepotential for flash-flooding. Beweather wise. Intense storms canmaterialize very quickly.

Note this number works only during businesshours daily. For park notification after businesshours call (432) 229-4913 or (432) 358-4451.911 is the emergency number where cell coverageis available. REMEMBER: response is usuallyhours away, if not a day or two.

“Showme a 4x4 driverwhohas never been stuck, andI will show you a 4x4 driverwho has not been downmany bad roads.” Anonymous

For parkemergencies callSauceda Ranger

Station at(432) 358-4444.

Photo:DanSholly

Photo:DanSholly


Executive DirectorCarter P. Smith

Peter M. Holt, ChairmanSan Antonio

T. Dan Friedkin, Vice-ChairmanHouston

Mark E. Bivins AmarilloJ. Robert Brown El Paso

Ralph H. Duggins Fort WorthAntonio Falcon, M.D. Rio Grande City

Karen J. Hixon San AntonioMargaret Martin BoerneJohn D. Parker Lufkin

Lee M. Bass, Chairman-EmeritusFort Worth

TEXAS PARKS ANDWILDLIFE DEPARTMENTMISSION STATEMENTTo manage and conserve the natural and cultural resources of Texas andto provide hunting, fishing and outdoor recreation opportunities for theuse and enjoyment of present and future generations.

You may view this and other publicationsthrough the TPWDWeb site. Please visithttp://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/.

In accordance with Texas State DepositoryLaw, this publication is available at the TexasState Publications Clearinghouse and/orTexas Depository Libraries.

© 2009 Texas Parks and Wildlife Department PWD BR P4507-1437 (11/09)

EditorsW. Phil HewittLinda Hedges

Regional DirectorMike Hill

General SuperintendentRod Trevizo

elSOLitarIo

Despite flooding of historicproportions on the Rio Grande,the River Road or F.M. 170between Lajitas and Presidioremains one of the most scenic,albeit changed, drives in all ofthe United States. Repeatvisitors will be amazed at theriver’s new look. The densestands of non-native river cane,salt cedar and Bermuda grassthat once choked the river havelargely been scoured away. Intheir place, newly-depositedgravel bars outline an unob-structed flow of water throughfreshly-cut channels. As youdrive the River Road and takein the scenery, take a momentto also contemplate the awe-inspiring power of nature.

Take A Break; Take a HikeThe River Road continues toboast plenty of hiking opportu-nities — over 60 miles of trails.The Rancherias Loop, a favorite ofbackpackers, requires serious

ARiver Runs By It: The River Road

trekking through spectacular yetrough country with elevationchanges of 1500 – 2000 feet. Theshorter and gentler RancheriasCanyon Trail leads to a waterfallthat cascades over rock ledgesinto a refreshing pool. Day hikersmay also choose Closed Canyon,an easy three-mile round-triptrail through a tall and narrowslot canyon near the Rio Grande.Finally, the multi-use Contra-bando Trail offers opportunitiesfor hiking, mountain biking andhorseback riding.

Wet a Paddle; Dropa Hook; Camp OutSeveral access points provideopportunities for fishing in theRio Grande or putting in yourkayak or canoe. Bring yourown, or rely on one of the localoutfitters listed on page 9.Designated campgrounds andgroup areas provide picnictables, fire rings and shelters

for day or overnight use. Becertain to keep vehicles ondesignated roads and parkingareas to avoid becoming stuckin the flood-deposited sand.

Live and LearnBe sure to watch for new inter-pretive waysides at severalpull-offs along the River Road,including La Cuesta (Big Hill),Contrabando Movie Set, ThreeDike Hill and the PresidioBasin. Trailside interpretiveexhibits also dot theContrabando Trail, colorfulvignettes from the region’s past.

Want to Know More?Before embarking, stop ateither the Barton WarnockEnvironmental EducationCenter in Lajitas or FortLeaton State Historic Sitenear Presidio. You can viewexhibits, pick up maps andarea information, and checkout the latest road conditions(short detours are possible).

Take your time, and enjoy thespectacular scenery. The RiverRoad drive is a great way tospend the day and to get anintroduction to Big Bend RanchState Park.

Rio Grande vista from pullout just west of La Cuesta (Big Hill).

Big Bend Ranch State ParkSauceda Ranger StationP.O. Box 2319Presidio, Texas 79845Fax (432) 358-4679Phone (432) 358-4444

General Superintendent OfficeHCR 70, Box 375Terlingua, Texas 79852Fax (432) 424-3404Phone (432) 424-3341

Barton Warnock EnvironmentalEducation CenterHCR 70, Box 375Terlingua, Texas 79852Fax (432) 424-3404Phone (432) 424-3327

Fort Leaton State Historic SiteP.O. Box 2439Presidio, Texas 79845Fax (432) 229-4814Phone (432) 229-3613

Texas Parks and WildlifeDepartment Headquarters4200 Smith School RoadAustin, Texas 78744(512) 389-4800(800) 792-1112www.tpwd.state.tx.us

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch

Visitors stopping at the Big Hill willfind both a new interpretive exhibitand a new vista.

El Solitario:What’s in a name?Spanish for “hermit” or “loner,”El Solitario is the signaturelandscape feature of the park.Almost 10 miles across, thiscollapsed and eroded volcanicdome is one of the Earth’smore distinctive features asobserved from space. SolitarioOverlook is a few miles pastSauceda Ranger Station and isaccessible by 2WD vehicles.For a closer look you’ll need a2WD high-clearance vehicle.Ask a Ranger for directionsand current road conditions.

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Cert no. XXX-XXX-000

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