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A GUIDE TO NEW YORK STATESRI LANKA, UNCOVEREDLOVE & LOSS IN BAVARIA

M O R O C C Oo Let your senses guide you p

M O R O C C O

P L U Se

A global journey through film with

CAMERON BAILEY, TIFF

A L L - I N C L U S I V E R E S O R T S I N C A N C U N | L O S C A B O S | M O N T E G O B A Y | P U E R T O V A L L A R T A

Savings up to 55% o� the published rate. O� er valid for new bookings only made through August 31, 2018 for travel through December 20, 2019. Savings may vary by date. Blackout dates may apply. O� er may be changed or withdrawn at any time. Not responsible for errors or omissions. Hyatt Zilara™ and Hyatt Ziva™ trademarks and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its a� liates. ©2018 Hyatt Corporation. ©2018 Playa Hotels & Resorts is the exclusive operator and owner of Hyatt Zilara™ and Hyatt Ziva™ resorts in Jamaica and Mexico. All rights reserved.

O C E A N F R O N T F I R E P I T S I N C L U D E D

C O N TA C T YO U R P R E F E R R E D T R AV E L A G E N T | 8 0 0.7 2 0.0 0 5 1 | H YAT T.C O M

S A V E U P T O 5 5 % — B O O K B Y A U G U S T 3 1

Spacious Suites Infinity Pools Dining & Drinks Private Balconies 24-Hour Room Service Live Entertainment

Airport Lounge Unlimited Wi-Fi Resort Fees

A N A L L- I N C LU S I V E E X P E R I E N C E by H YAT T

CANADIAN TRAVELLER SUMMER 2018 | 3

SUMMER 2018

38

20

25

ON THE COVER: Marrakech, Morocco

F E ATUR E S16 Family: Germany There’s more to Bavaria’s

Neuschwanstein Castle than meets the eye

20 History & Culture: Sri Lanka There are many reasons why this

country is in high-demand by international visitors

COVER STORY38 Wanderlust: Morocco Beyond the walls of Marrakech

SPECIAL SECTION 25 A Guide to

New York State Get to know the different

regions & reasons to visit

D E PARTMENTS 4 Editor’s note Embrace the unexpected

6 Social Club Let’s connect

8 Snapshots What’s new, what’s

hot & what’s trending?

12 Getaway Guide: Québec City, QC Discover the history, romance

& European charm of this great Canadian destination

14 In Short: PUBLIC hotel, New York City It’s the coolest kind of cool

43 How To Travelling with someone

you love isn’t always easy…

44 Travel Muse Cameron Bailey, artistic director

of TIFF, discusses the connection between film & place

46 Shop Look to these Canadian brands for

items to add to your packing list

4 | SUMMER 2018 CANADIAN TRAVELLER

CANADIANTRAVELLER.COMEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Terrilyn Kunopaski

[email protected] DIRECTOR

Gordon AlexanderCONTRIBUTORS

Britney Hope, Denise Heffron, Megan Honan, Sarah Treleaven

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editor’s note

My best friend and I have started a new tradition, whereby we set aside a weekend in the spring and make our way to Rochester, New York. For some, it’s perceived to be an unlikely destination, but having just completed our second-annual visit, we beg to differ. With highlights such as the Susan B. Anthony House & Museum, the Memorial Art Gallery and The Strong Museum of Play, not to mention a vibrant

food and wine scene, the city has all the fixings for an awesome escape. But, if it weren’t for me telling you now, the only way you could truly believe it is to visit for yourself – and when you’re surprised to find as vibrant a destination as I’m describing, you’ll appreicate it that much more.

The situations in which a place has captured me with its unexpected appeal are numerous. For example, a perception that Las Vegas was shallow and empty originally made me apprehensive to visit, but once on the ground, I learned

that, in reality, it is teeming with amazing dining, one-of-a-kind entertainment options, and incredible hospitality. Cancun is another place that I didn’t ex-pect would be for me, for much of the same reasons. But after seeing the million shades of blue of the ocean there and exploring the surrounding area, I am proud to say I was wrong.

Everyone has different tastes and expectations when it comes to travel, so it’s fair that certain destin-ations will appeal more to some than others. But I’ve come to learn that it’s those places that surprise us, for one reason or another, that make a lasting impact.

The stories in this issue exemplify this point, from one writer’s experience stepping outside of the typical tourist trappings of Marrakech and into another reality travellers don’t often see; or my own journey through Sri Lanka, exploring a country that went from enduring a 25-year civil war that ended less than a decade ago to now being one of the top trending hotspots in the world. “You have to know, it’s not like home,” our G Adventures guide, Sam, told me, when I asked him what advice he would give travellers before they paid a visit. Coincidentally, this is exactly why I loved it there.

Cameron Bailey, the artistic director for the Toronto International Film Fes-tival, gives another example, which you can read in our interview on page 44. He discusses how movie-going traditions in other parts of the world are not like we’ve come to know; for example, dried squid is the snack of choice in South Korea, versus the popcorn we tend to enjoy with films here. It’s a small differ-ence, but one that most people have not likely considered.

It goes to show that wherever the distinctions of a destination stem from – whether reality is different from that which is in our minds or in our lives at home – it pays to embrace the unknown.

Terrilyn Kunopaski Editor-in-Chief [email protected]

Embrace the unknown

"THIS WASN'T A STRANGE PLACE; IT WAS A NEW ONE." - PAOLO COELHO


You’ve been hiking on mountain trails and scenic back country before, but there’s nothing like exploring the slot canyons of St. George, Utah.

Just thinJust think, in couple hours you could be exploring miles of red rock canyons usually only seen in movies made about Mars. The landscapes are so colorful it’s like Mother Nature didn’t know where to stop with her paintbrush.

Just 90 minuJust 90 minutes North of Las Vegas on I-15, and now with direct ights on United, Delta and American Airlines right into SGU, getting there couldn’t be easier. Going home...well that may take some convincing.

!

social club


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CANADIANTRAVELLER.COM❱ We Discovered Why Club Med Appeals to

Active Travellers & We’re Into It https://goo.gl/BT4VX3

❱ 4 Iconic Landscapes: An Artist’s Inspiration Behind His Canadian Designs https://goo.gl/jRm7c3

TWITTERThinking of a California road trip? The High Sierra region has a few great options to quell your wanderlust. https://goo.gl/opkFDB #travel #visitcalifornia #ustravel #roadtrip

FACEBOOKSorry to break it to you, but everything you think you know about Cinco de Mayo is probably wrong. https://goo.gl/aCu1iH #travel #mexico #cincodemayo #canadiantraveller #mythbuster

PINTERESTWhen Collette launched its “Reasons” campaign, we started thinking about the motivations behind our own travel experiences and decided to ask our contributors about theirs. Here’s why we travel. https://goo.gl/GQWQaC #travel #reasons #wanderlust

INSTAGRAMYou guys, you’re going to have so many more reasons to love New York once you hear about all Long Island has to offer. https://goo.gl/8t9Qup #travel #iloveny #discoverLongIsland #canadiantraveller

DROP US A LINE!What do you think of Canadian Traveller? Did you connect with a particular story? Do you have your own travel tale to tell? What destination should we cover next? Send your thoughts, along with your full name, address, and phone number, to [email protected] and you could win a one-year subscription. We’d love to hear from you! Please note that letters to the editor are edited for brevity and clarity.

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www.facebook.com/canadiantravellermag

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FACEBOOKWhat planet is this?

Actually, this photo was taken in the Danakil

Depression in northern Ethiopia. Acidic hot springs,

sulfur, salt, and small gas geysers are responsible

for its other-worldly appearance. Now you know.

CANADIANTRAVELLER.COM15 Swoon-Worthy Wild Coast Cabins in Haida

Gwaii

Read it at: https://goo.gl/1ImCmf

INSTAGRAMBy @charlotte.dovle: Give me a beach, sunshine

and some palm trees, and I’m happy!

This #beach pic snapped in #SriLanka.

What’s your ideal destination?

PINTEREST7 dream trips for 2017

www.pinterest.com/cantravelmag/travel-

hacks/

TWITTER By @CoralieU: Can’t wait to reunite in

#Ottawa @ginabethell!

We must go for a skate & beaver tails!

In reply to @CanTravelMag: 10 of the greatest

outdoor ice rinks in the world via @FairmontHotels:

bit.ly/2i8keF7 (We see you #Ottawa!)

DROP US A LINEWhat do you think of Canadian Traveller? Did you connect with any particular story? Do you have your own travel tale to tell? Send your thoughts, along with your full name, address and phone number, to [email protected] and you could win a $50 Starbucks card. We’d love to hear from you! Please note that letters are edited for brevity and clarity.


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What’s the latest & greatest going on in travel? Canadian Traveller looks at what’s new, what’s hot and what’s trending, in hopes of inspiring your wanderlust. Where next? BY BRITNEY HOPE


Travel news , event s and t rend s f rom around the world

SNAPSHOTS

T R E N D S

An elephant never forgets…

Animal lovers, unite! The Travel Corporation has partnered with World Animal Protection in an effort to further improve their brands’ already progressive policies on animal welfare. The partnership follows a history of collaboration that has seen The Travel Corporation’s brands, such as Contiki and Trafalgar, remove inhumane animal-related tourism activities from their itineraries. As a result, exploitative practices that encourage swimming with dolphins, bullfighting, and elephant rides & performances have all been phased out from its collections of escorted tours. Moving forward, the partners plan to continue finding ways to improve traveller interactions with animals around the world.


T R E N D S

Women of the world

In the wake of a historic year for gender equality, expedition tour leaders are celebrating women’s empowerment by offering all-female journeys to destinations around the world. Exodus has begun “making adventure accessible to women” by offering female-led and female-only tours to Costa Rica, Persia and Cro-atia, while Intrepid Travel is working to challenge cultural mis-conceptions with new women’s expeditions to Morocco, Iran and Jordan. Taking things even further is Nepal-based non-profit Sisterhood of Survivors (SASANE), which recently launched its own trekking businesss. It is working to drive tourism to rural Nepali communities and create employment for female human trafficking survivors by training them to be group guides.

T R E N D S

Style your domicile

Looking for a little interior decoration inspiration? According to research funded by Booking.com, our deepest design desires are sometimes realized just by going on vacation. The survey found that hotel and vacation rental décor prompted more than 50 per cent of Canadians to redecorate upon returning home, while 43 per cent of Canadians were inspired by the local designs of their destination. This surge in interior style may be a reflection of how our travels stay with us; one in six Canadians reported that imitating the décor they’ve seen on a trip is how they keep memories alive after returning home.

H O T E L S

Beach, please

Looking to escape somewhere new next winter? Meliá Hotels International will be opening a new all-inclusive Paradisus resort in early 2019. The 498-room property will be located off Cancun’s coast in the quiet beachfront enclave of Playa Mujeres, where guests can expect Royal Service by way of a private butler and a family concierge to customize everyone’s vacation experience. Paradisus Playa Mujeres will also work with local artists to promote Yucatan culture through its wellness offerings and décor, and with local farmers and artisans to develop a dynamic dining programme, including its Michelin-star chef-curated restaurant, Gastro Bar.

H O T E L S

Take me to church

Things are about to get pretty luxe on the private island paradise of Caye Chapel, Belize, the soon-to-be-home for Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts’ new hotel and residence property. The Four Seasons Resort and Residences Caye Chapel is scheduled to open in 2021, with plans for it to offer an opulent 185-room and residence escape from the outside world. The resort, located alongside the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Belize Barrier Reef System, will indulge guests with overwater bungalows, an 18-hole designer golf course, an on-site Fabien Cousteau nature conservation and adventure centre, and a private marina and airstrip.

H O T E L S

Dream machine

There’s nothing like summer in the city, and when it comes to Canada’s urban getaways, Montréal has it all – even a robot-centric hotel. Hôtel Monville, a new four-star, 323-room hotel in the heart of Montréal, is the first of its kind in the country to use an autonomous robot for room service delivery. The hotel, which prides itself on its innovative connectivity, also allows guests to check-in and collect their room keys from electronic kiosks. Have no fear, though: there are staff on site, mainly to help with restaurant reservations and make suggestions of what to see and do around the city. The sleek new space, which includes a restaurant, Gourmet Monville, and a rooftop terrace, is located a stone’s throw from Old Montréal, meaning guests can enjoy a historic hotspot along with a truly futuristic hotel experience, all in one place.

H O T E L S

Luxury space oddity

The sky is no longer the limit when it comes to luxury accommodations, thanks to space technology start-up Orion Span, which has revealed its plans for Aurora Station, the first-ever high-end hotel in space. The six-person hotel will feature high-speed Internet access, 16 sunrises and sunsets a day (it will orbit Earth every 90 minutes), and virtual reality experiences via a real-life “holodeck.” The otherworldly expedition – which includes a three-month astronaut training program and a 12-day journey into space – will cost USD $9.5 million per person, and expects to start receiving guests by 2022.

Aurora Station

The Four Seasons Resort and Residences Caye Chapel

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C R U I S E & T O U R

By land, rail and sky

There’s so much to see in Western Canada, you shouldn’t limit yourself to only one mode of transportation. Perhaps that’s why luxury tourist train Rocky Mountaineer’s four new 2019 vacation packages include road-tripping, hiking and helicopters. The packages, which feature all new destinations across West Canmore, Kananaskis and West Sunshine Village in Banff National Park, take

guests on seven-day stints of self-driving, mountain biking and hot springs, along with stays in deluxe lodges throughout the Rockies. For those looking to go even deeper into the wild, a 10-day adventure to the Cariboo Mountains will take guests by helicopter to the remote CMH Cariboos Lodge for a few days of heli-hiking before flying them back to end their trip with a luxury train journey.

A I R L I N E S

Move over Boston

With the emerging trend of travellers visiting secondary cities, one destination in particular is set to reap the benefits. New airlift to Providence, Rhode Island from Toronto with Air Canada is now operating daily through to Oct. 8, giving Canadian travellers direct access to a destination that in the past, was easiest reached via Boston. So, why visit this summer? A renowned restaurant scene, to start with, plus diverse neighbourhoods, special events and a thriving arts community. Plus, Providence is a stone’s throw away from other great summer spots such as Newport and Bristol.


xx

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*$140 per day, per person based on Best of Turkey departing February 10, 2019. **Save 7.5% early payment discounts on the land-portion of selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by August 30, 2018. Discounts may be combinable with other brochure discounts where applicable. Valid only on new bookings. Other conditions may apply. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Not valid on Costsaver, custom groups, East Mediterranean or any other offers. A deposit of $200 per person is required on booking and the full payment due by 30 August, 2018 or no later than 45 days prior to your departure date for your land only guided holidays (whichever comes first) to qualify for the 7.5% AWS Europe and Britain 2018/19 early payment discount. TICO #W1583987

C R U I S E & T O U R

Glide down the Ganges

It’s almost impossible to experience all the wonders of India in a single trip, but Avalon Waterways’ newest river cruise along the Ganges is certainly going to try. Launching in 2019, this new two-week itinerary will begin by taking passengers over land through Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and to see the sunrise at the Taj Mahal before setting sail from Kolata aboard the 56-passenger Ganges Voyager. The six-night cruise will make stops in Kalna, Matiari, Murshidabad, Mayapur and Guptipara, offering shore excursions that showcase the country’s rich culture, such as visiting Mother Theresa’s former home, participating in a goldsmith workshop, and taking in a local flower market.

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GETAWAY GUIDE

Québec CityCobblestone streets, sidewalk cafés, history in tangible forms – it’s no wonder Québec City markets itself to Canadians as “so Europe, so close.” This picture-perfect destination appeals to visitors in unique ways each season, but what never changes is the romance, the beauty and satisfaction for all senses. Whether for a week or a weekend, here are Canadian Traveller’s suggestions for how to spend your time in this one-of-a-kind city.

SEE & DO

The Old PortIt’s in this corner of Québec City where the true magic lies – where you can wander aimlessly from cafés to art galleries to independent shops, each delightfully unique from the next. Enjoy the views of the St. Lawrence, ideally from Pointe-à-Carcy, an urban park situated at the confluence of the river, the port and the city. Of course the fortified walls of the area are a defining feature, though historic architecture is easy to come by here; be sure to stop by the parliament building, featuring 26 bronze statues that are illuminated at night. The Cathedral-Basilica Notre Dame de Québec is another local highlight, dating back to the 1600s. It all comes together at Place Royale, a beautiful plaza that marks the main square of the city when it was first founded.Plains of AbrahamMore than four million visitors explore the vast expanse of greenspace in Battlefield Park each year – its main sites being the Plains of Abraham and Des Braves Park – which today, is a common spot for sports, festivals and outdoor events. But the history here dates back to the mid-1700s and the infamous Battle of the Plains of Abraham, making it a must-see attraction when in Québec City. The on-site

museum features a multi-media exhibition, explaining the siege of the city and historic battles that took place on this land, as well as archaeological artifacts found throughout. Monuments, such as those erected to commemorate the Battle of Sainte-Foy and James Wolfe, are also popular with tourists, as is the Joan of Arc Garden. Île d’OrléansIf you’re willing to venture a bit out of the city, rent a car or hire a driver and make your way to Île d’Orléans. Not only is this “the largest heritage site of Québec” with 18 of the approximately 3,600 buildings on the island designated as historical monuments, the island is also a hotbed for agritourism. Known for its vineyards and strawberry fields, some call Île d’Orléans “the garden of Québec City.” Take in views of Montmorency Falls, Beauport Bay and Cap Diamant from Sainte-Pétronille, or overlook the islands of the archipelago and the St. Lawrence Estuary from the observation tower at Saint-François-de-l’Île-d’Orléans. Be sure to plan a stop at the beautiful Parc de la Chute-Montmorency at some point along your journey.

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EAT & DRINK

Aux Anciens CanadiensFor traditional Québécois dishes, visit Aux Anciens Canadiens. Set within Québec City’s oldest house, which dates back to 1675, the location itself is one reason to go but the menu stands up all on its own. Opt for a dish of wild caribou and bison rillettes or Québec meat pie with meatball ragout, salt pork grillades and baked beans – though these are only a few of the many sinful options to choose from. Round-off the experience by ordering a slice of maple syrup pie, topped with unsweetened whipped cream. Is your mouth not watering just thinking about it?La Buvette ScottWith seating for 30 and unique design, La Buvette Scott is an intimate and delectable dining option in the heart of Québec City. Music playing from vinyl records sets the ambiance, with drinks on offer that change with the season. Meals are plated like true works of art, allowing the fresh, local ingredients to shine visually – and then, in flavour. Griendel: Brasserie ArtisanaleThere are 18 microbreweries in and around Québec City, so Griendel: Brasserie Artisanale might be just one stop of many for beer aficionados. Located in the Saint-Sauveur neighbourhood, Griendel offers 24 lines of craft beer including IPAs, stouts, lagers and ales, to name a few. Pub food is also available to order, including burgers, tartars and, of course, poutine. •CT

STAY & SLEEP

Hotel 71Located in a building that, once upon a time, was head office for the National Bank of Canada, the beauty of Hotel 71 is not just skin deep. Its 19th-century neo-classic architecture extends through the front doors and into the lobby, though there’s nothing out of date about its modern and inviting design. Room décor is simple and elegant, and some are situated perfectly to offer views of the St. Lawrence and the city’s Old Port. Exceedingly high ceilings throughout the property add to the trendy, upscale vibe. Kick-off an evening out on the town with a pour from the lobby wine bar and make time for amazing Italian cuisine at Il Matto, conveniently located just off the Hotel 71 lobby.Fairmont Le Château Frontenac 2018 marks the 125th year since the iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac opened its doors, in which time it has hosted names such as Winston Churchill, Sir Paul McCartney and Céline Dion. The property has recently undergone a multimillion dollar “renaissance project,” though modern innovations do not compromise the history on display throughout. Not only will guests enjoy a luxury experience, breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River are there to be enjoyed, and its location allows for easy access to top city sites. Dans les bras de MorphéeIf B&Bs are more your style, try Dans les bras de Morphée, located on l’Île d’Orléans. There are only four guestrooms, each offering dreamy designs and a warm ambiance. Enjoy gourmand tours of the area, from microbreweries and cideries to chocolate shops and cheese makers, or take part in a plethora of outdoor activities, no matter the season. Looking to treat yourself? A nature spa on the property, which opens in May until the first frost, offers outdoor relaxation with its zen ambiance, elegant waterfall and whirlwind jets.

Hotel 71

Aux Anciens Canadiens


IAN SCHRAGER IS A COOL GUY. LIKE, NEW York-Brooklyn cool. The coolest kind of cool.

And it’s not just because his resumé is impressive: an entrepreneur lauded as the co-creator of the boutique hotel concept; collaborator with the likes of Jean-Michal Basquiat, Phillipe Stark and Keith Haring; architect of “environments"; a tastemaker of the stars. An impressive bio indeed,

but he is perhaps best known as the co-founder of the revolutionary, felliniesque Studio 54 – formerly a nightclub and now, a Broadway theatre.

I had the good fortune to see Schrager speak at a conference this year and he intrigued me; bold yet humble, and simply put, more current and innovative than you’d expect a 70-something-year-old to be. In fact, he intrigued me enough that I decided to venture to New York City and try out his new hotel, PUBLIC.

Schrager is no stranger to the hospitality business. After serving his time for tax evasion following the glory days of Studio 54 (since pardoned by Obama), he reinvented himself as an environment visionary, and along with Studio 54 partner Steve Rubell, introduced the concept of the “boutique lifestyle hotel” with Morgans, in 1984. The ideas kept coming. Next, “lobby socializing” was the motivation behind New York’s Paramount and Royalton Hotels, followed by the notion of the “urban resort,” which gave birth to the stunning, art deco Delano Hotel in Miami.

And now, his latest venture, PUBLIC, this time aiming to offer “luxury for all,” or as he puts it, “a modern place for modern people.” The concept involves compressing costs through the utilization of technology and elimination of services we simply no longer require in today’s fast-paced world: Check in and out via iPad, no bellmen, no mini-bar, no room service, no spa. So, “Where’s the luxury?” you might ask. According to Schrader, “Luxury is a state of being.”

The property addresses the changing needs and desires of today’s traveller: Walk in and you’ll find inviting and modern communal spaces. The check-in area is home to bleachers and a pool table, a lobby bar, and a lounge/resto, Diego, which looks and feels more like a private club than a bar. For eats, there is Public Kitchen, a renowned and always lively restaurant on the ground floor, and Louis, a marché, complete with communal tables designed to foster interaction between the trés-chic clientele. The basement club, Public Arts, was christened

IN SHORT

A PUBLIC AFFAIRA look at one of New York’s newest, and coolest, properties BY DENISE HEFFRON

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by the godmother herself, Patti Smith, during the opening party. There is also a rooftop bar with 360-degree killer city views – this is where you want to see, and be seen – and lovely courtyard and garden areas outside.

The rooms are impressive as well: typically New York small but exceptionally well-designed with the compact efficiency of cruise cabin, but oh so modern and chic; think bleached Italian wood, lots of white, speedy Wifi, Bose speakers and intuitive room controls.

“Airbnb is coming for our kids,” Schrader says, but he believes that hotels need to adjust “and disrupt the disrupters.” He calls the sharing economy “isolating” and has set his sights on creating beautiful social and communal spaces in order to combat the interlopers.

Prices start at USD $150 per night; my husband and I paid about CAD $600 including all taxes for two nights – a Friday and Saturday – which is very reasonable for New York, especially for one of the hottest hotels in town. The location is perfect, too; situated in the heart of New York’s gentrified yet still a little gritty East Village, PUBLIC is within walking distance to Soho, Canal Street, The West

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Village and the shops of 5th Avenue. The area is also home to many art galleries, music venues, performance spaces and restaurants of all types and price ranges.

My husband and I are 51 and 56 years old respectively, so likely closer to Schrager’s age than the average patron of PUBLIC, but it mattered not. The staff were open and friendly and the environment made good on its promise of social interaction and beautiful space. I overheard one guest saying that the property felt more like a resort than a hotel, and I couldn’t agree more.

I asked one of the employees if Schrager ever visited and was told he does on occasion, but not so much lately as he’s been spending time in Miami working on a new project. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with next. Without a doubt, it will be the coolest kind of cool. •CT

within easy reach. For a truly unique and immersive experience, Ideal Glass is an industrial space that fosters and showcases a community of artists, fashion designers, musicians and filmmakers.

SHOPPING: The ultra-hip John Varvatos boutique sits in the crosshairs of Joey Ramone Place and Bowery. The building was once home to CBGB – the mecca of new wave and punk rock; a breeding ground for musical icons Blondie, Ramones and Patti Smith. The store is equal parts fashion, music, art and commerce. Even if you are not ready to spring USD $88 for a CBGB t-shirt, pop in for a look; the shop is stunning and the staff seem quite accustomed to nostalgia seeking window shoppers.

FOOD: The Organic Grill is a gem of a restaurant that proves that healthy options can indeed be tasty options. The organic, vegan and vegetarian dishes are colourful, creative and bursting with flavour. Food is sourced locally whenever possible and it is Organic Grill’s mission to support local growers and artisanal producers. Menu options such as their award-winning veggie burger, sriracha maple cauliflower pops, and the incredible Triple J Sandwich (you’d swear it’s pulled pork) will have even the most committed meat eaters thinking twice. Bonus: This casual establishment is family-owned and operated, and the hospitality is through the roof.

Take a walk:No need to wander too far from PUBLIC to enjoy NYC. Here are a few tips:

ARTS AND CULTURE: For lovers of art and culture, the East Village / Bowery district is the perfect place to while away the day. A hotbed of creativity, Museums (the New Museum), historic places of worship (St. Marks Church-In-The-Bowery), spectacular street murals (Houston Bowery Art Wall), and a plethora of independent art galleries are all

5

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A KING, A CASTLE & A BROKEN HEARTThe story of Neuschwanstein Castle in southwest Bavaria, Germany is not a romantic fairytale with a happy ending. Instead, there’s a sadness that can be felt through its halls, left by a king and his unrequited love. But it’s beautiful and profound, now open to a world that was never supposed to see it in the first place.BY JENNIFER PRENDERGAST

Neuschwanstein Castle, in the background Alpsee and Swan Lake


family

M Y HUSBAND, FRANCOIS, ALWAYS wanted to see Neuschwanstein Castle again. He’d been there as a child with his mom and had fragmented memories of the visit – walking up to the entrance, the view from a balcony, and a random empty tunnel that they ventured through. I knew of it from the dreamy, Instagram-

worthy photos I’d seen in magazines and online, and imagined it to be one of the grandest and most opulent castles in the world; surely, I thought, incredible characters from history had strolled those halls, danced circles around the ballroom, and feasted and drank until the sun came up – all in the company of other aristocrats. I fantasized about the stories of romances, scandals and family feuds that Neuschwanstein’s walls had seen; jaw-dropping tales of love, greed and betrayal.

But in reality, there was only one story of one man. And it was nothing but tragic.

Francois and I eventually made our way to Germany, nonetheless compelled by the stories, real and make-believe. We found our way to the castle one early afternoon and joined a group of about 40 people, and were led from room to room, learning the sad tale of the king who had commissioned the dream home.

In short, King Ludwig II was a loner. He eschewed the royal life, much preferring architecture and the arts. It’s widely suspected that he had a love affair with composer, Richard Wagner, whose operas inspired entire rooms of the castle. In fact, “Neuschwanstein” means “New Swan Stone,” and was derived from a nameless swan knight in one of Wagner’s operas. After Wagner was politically exiled to Switzerland, Ludwig descended into a frenzy of castle-building, planning for five to be built around Bavaria. Ultimately, three of these actually began construction, and only one project, Linderhof, was entirely completed. When the government of the day decided that he was spending too much on the building of Neuschwanstein, they had him declared insane and took him by force to Munich, where his body was found two days later floating in a lake alongside that of his psychiatrist (some suspect Ludwig killed him before drowning himself). All construction of the castle was halted and, to this day, more than two-thirds of Neuschwanstein’s interior remains unfinished.

In her current form, the castle took 17 years to build, but Ludwig only spent about six months there before being taken away. Wagner was never able to visit, as he had died three years prior.

Wandering through the halls, we were pointed by our guide to a suspended bridge behind the castle. Ludwig, we were told, would have his staff turn on lights in every room at night and would stand there for hours, just staring at his masterpiece.

When the tour was over, we made our way up the path to the bridge, determined to see the view that had so enraptured the king. It didn’t disappoint – not us, nor the other tourists who snapped photos and stared alongside us, in awe.

By then, the sun began its descent and I was ready to return to the car, as we had a lengthy walk on a wooded path ahead of us in order to reach the parking lot – not one I felt like doing in the dark. But Francois wanted to cross the bridge and walk further along to see what was there,

and I acquiesced. This day was, after all, one of his dreams come true.

We ventured onward and lost sight of the castle as the gorge wall came between us. About five minutes along, Francois suggested we scramble up the treed hill to possibly catch one more view. So, we climbed for a few minutes and just as I was getting ready to pull the chute on the mission, a flat clearing opened up in front of us. I remember gasping, audibly. There in front of us was the most breathtaking view I’d ever seen – one that brought tears to my eyes.

At that point, Neuschwanstein was now closed for the day; not a soul was wandering around the courtyard, no one was taking pictures, and not a sound could be heard. It was just the two of us, staring at the most famously tragic castle in the world, as it bathed in the magical light of dusk. I could feel my heart beat faster in my chest and my breath quicken. We stood together in complete silence, both too overwhelmed by the beauty and

tragedy before us. In that moment, it was all ours; the castle known and visited by millions belonged to us alone.

In a strange way, it almost felt like we were trespassing on private property; the experience of Neuschwanstein today is supposed to be a hurried and timed tour as to move as many people through as possible – yet there we were, seeing it quiet and solitary, just the way King Ludwig II had intended for himself alone. It’s said that when he was being forcibly removed him from his bedroom, he demanded that his staff keep the rest of the world out. “Keep up the rooms for me. Don’t let them be profaned by curious spectators,” our guide had quoted.

In the next half hour that we stayed there, Neuschwanstein ceased, for me, to be only a dreamy castle in the German Alps. I can’t see it now without a sense of sadness as I think of the lonely, young king – without family or friends – who built it as his private refuge

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the two of us, staring at the most famously tragic castle in the world, as it bathed in the magical light

of dusk.

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Neuschwanstein Castle

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from the world. Today, we still marvel at our luck in having it all to ourselves for that moment in time, and the pictures we took that evening never fail to leave us both trying to describe how we felt sitting up there – even though we experienced it together.

The Swan King wanted nothing more than to be left alone to live in a world of his fantasies. Neuschwanstein was never intended for the parties and society functions that I’d envisioned, but was meant to be something of a fortress to keep the world away. She wasn’t built in an alpine valley overlooking the countryside below for the sake of impressing a single soul on earth. Rather, she was meant to be tucked away – out of sight, and inaccessible, save for one lonely man.

Ludwig, though his role as king was mostly ceremonial, was fascinated by royalty and nobility and all the trappings that came with it. He was building himself a throne room that is nothing short of

magnificent, but, fittingly, there’s no throne to be found. The room had been commissioned but only partially built when he was taken away, and then, never completed. Standing in a room that would befit any royal gathering while knowing that it was planned to be forever empty will break your heart.

Pictures are not allowed to be taken inside of Neuschwanstein. Initially, I was disappointed as I wanted to document every bit of it, room by room. But it turned out to be a gift; with our phones and camera tucked away, we were able to take in the story with all our senses. We were able to feel the sadness in the corridors, the frenzied attention to every detail, and the isolation in the views from windows and balconies. Without a doubt, Ludwig’s story cemented Neuschwanstein in our hearts and forever changed how we’ll appreciate her. You can keep your camera lenses; I’ll take steeping in stories to create memories any day. •CT



Historic city centre of Bolzano

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Getting to the heart of

SRI LANKACanadians might be loosely familiar with the complicated history of Sri Lanka, but less than 10 years after the end of its civil war, this country is among the top trending destinations for world travellers. TERRILYN KUNOPASKI recently embarked on a journey with G Adventures to find out why, and it’s safe to say, the reasons quickly became apparent.


history

I MIGHT HAVE STARED A BIT TOO LONG AT THE CRICKET game taking place when I got out of the van, totally caught up in what I thought to be an exciting display of local life in Sri Lanka. It was only our first day there when we came across a group of boys – probably in their mid-teens – enjoying the sport just as we might see kids playing street hockey or basketball closer to home.

But as we walked through this corner of Anuradhapura, keeping our eyes peeled after every crack of the bat as to

avoid taking a ball to the head, I quickly caught on that Sam was not impressed.

“Anuradhapura is a sacred historical place, and it should be respected,” he explained to us, emphasizing the meaning of the UNESCO World Heritage Site we were currently exploring; that specific area of the ruins, Padhanaghara, is said to have been a dedicated space for monks to meditate.

P.G. Samantha Jayathilaka (aka Sam), our CEO (chief experience officer) and ever-knowledgeable G Adventures guide, was born and raised in Sri Lanka. An A-plus-rated National Tourist Guide Lecturer and with more than 20 years of guiding experience under his belt, he has a deep respect for – and understanding of – his country, so it was easy to empathize with his disappointment.

“The young people don’t always understand,” he said.The history of Anuradhapura dates back to 377 BC; in fact, Sri

Lanka’s history spans more than 35,000 years and has been preserved in a way that allows travellers and locals alike to embrace and respect it, from ancient stupas and relics to the ruins of sites like Sigiriya rock fortress and Anuradhapura itself.

While the fair-weather cricket competitors may not have the same appreciation for the place in which they were standing as Sam might like to see, they likely have memories of the country’s much more recent history – one that has not always been so kind to this island nation. They would have been children when a 25-year civil war


Jetavanaramaya dagoba in the UNESCO World Heritage

City of Anuradhapura

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finally ended in 2009 – surely one reason they could play as carefree as they were that day.

I remember coming across protests hosted by Toronto’s Tamil community when I first moved here more than a decade ago, as innocent people continued to be victims of the conflict between the Sri Lankan Government and the Tamil Tigers (formally known as the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam – LTTE). Though much of the fighting took place in the northern- and eastern-most areas of the country, the United Nations estimates that more than 100,000 civilians were killed during those years of war.

But once you get to Sri Lanka, it becomes hard to believe that this country – a country of kindness and community; a country where people leave food and water on their doorsteps for stray dogs; a country where everyone has access to education and health care without the cost of oppressive government – is a place that was plagued with darkness and destruction so recently.

Sam spent some time with the Red Cross during the war, as a departure from his work in tourism. When responding to emergencies, it didn’t matter if victims were Sinhalese or Tamil; his job was to help. Moreover, he said that in his experience, the social divide many people might have imagined between the Sinhalese and Tamils during that time simply did not exist; neighbours continued to dine together, mixed couples continued to love, and when in need, communities continued to support one another.

And the same is true today. For Sam, it all connects back to Buddhist roots, which were established in Sri Lanka in the 3rd century. “That idea still exists here,” he told me. “No matter if people are Christian, Islam, Buddhist or Hindu, the culture is there.”

22 | FALL 2017 CANADIAN TRAVELLER

INSIDER TIP: Visitors who travel to Sri Lanka often get caught up in planning a visit to Ella – no doubt, it’s beautiful, but according to Sam, its beauty is only a fragment of that which can be found in Nuawara Eliya.

Clockwise: In Colombo,

Temple of the Tooth in Kandy,

Nuwara Eliya

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So perhaps it’s not as strange as I originally thought that the feeling I walked away with from Sri Lanka was one of inner peace, as kitschy as that may seem; it’s a “cry when you get to the airport because you don't want to leave” kind of place, because

there’s something about it that is simply good for the soul. I first credit the people: Sam, who has guided tours with

G Adventures since 2016, is as great as they come. He was the perfect ambassador for his country, eager to show-off its beauty and uniqueness, and in doing so, demonstrating his own. Others welcomed us into their homes and businesses, sometimes teaching us about the economic and social im-portance of various natural elements (like coconuts, which are referred to as “the fruit of life”), sometimes sharing meals with us, sometimes helping us to understand the roots of local art; a cultural dance performance we enjoyed in Kandy was one that allowed for the “joie de vivre” and national pride of Sri Lankans to shine.

And then, there was the natural beauty. Whether encountering monkeys, elephants and unique species of birds while on safari through Udawalawe National Park or gaping at the vast, vibrant green tea fields in Nuwara Eliya, every destination brought with it a different reason to fall in love with Sri Lanka. The “World’s End” plateau in Horton Plains National Park is just as mesmerizing as the Dr. Seuss-esque trees growing in Peradeniya’s Royal Botanic Gardens, and watching the sun rise before venturing out for a hike in the mountains is just as fulfilling as watching it set from the top of Sigiriya.

Food, of course, rounds-out the gratification that is Sri Lanka – I regret that my distaste for chickpeas averted me from trying the dhal curry until our last few days, because once I gave it a chance, I wanted to enjoy it with every meal (I’ve yet to attempt recreating it at home, for fear of failure in recreating the experience). Curries unique to the

country make for distinctive flavours, showcased best in dishes like eggplant aubergine and coconut sambol. Each breakfast, lunch and dinner meant a new taste experience, so it’s sure that I left with a stomach as full as my heart.

And there are times when the people, nature and food intersected, but as Sam suggested, travellers must know that Sri Lanka is not like home – and in ways far beyond the type of sports that kids play to pass the time. It’s in openness and curiosity that one can come to appreciate these things that make his country special, and the path that history has taken to get here. •CT

CANADIAN TRAVELLER FALL 2017 | 23

When You GoGETTING THERE: Turkish Airlines can easily connect Canadians to Sri Lanka, with flights from Toronto to Istanbul six times a week; Montreal to Istanbul three times a week. Daily flights are available from Istanbul to Colombo. Business Class passengers can take advantage of the Layover Program in Istanbul, which allows for guests to get a taste of another great destination while enroute to Sri Lanka.

WHAT TO DO: Visit your local travel advisor for help booking an experience with G Adventures. Canadian Traveller was hosted on a trip from its National Geographic Journeys collection, but the tour operator has a number of trip styles to choose from. In fact, they recently launched sailing trips, which showcase the beaches and the UNESCO sites of the country, offering a different perspective. Some departures pair in-land experiences with the marine journey, so find the itinerary that’s right for you.

Left to right: Man selling fresh coconuts,

Preparing dhal curry

P.G. Samantha Jayathilaka

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THE REAL

OF MINDThere’s much

more to New York than the dazzling

skyline of the Big Apple.

Mountains, lakes, beaches, wineries and quaint towns

with a certain artistic sophistication all call the Garden

State home. Get ready for an

unforgettable journey deep into the state.

BY CANDICE WALSH



T H E R E G I O N :

ADIRONDACKSSprawled across six million acres of protected land covering 100 communities, the Adirondacks is where adventure enthusiasts come to play. Don’t let the size overwhelm you! The Adirondacks are all about exquisite nature and plenty of downtime in between.

UNPLUG AND PADDLE YOUR HEART OUT. Put away your smartphones and fancy gadgets – the Adirondacks are meant to be enjoyed, distraction-free. Paddle lovers come here to canoe or kayak the Saranac Lake Chain, where three lakes are connected via the scenic Saranac River, providing a natural 27-kilometre link. If you don’t have the right gear, you can rent kayaks, canoes and even camping gear from St. Regis Canoe Outfitters. Their friendly guides are also happy to lead you on tours or provide an instructional lesson. While you’re on the lake, keep an eye out for wildlife like bald eagles and beavers.

LIVE AND LEARN A LITTLE. History buffs: visit the 18th-century Fort Ticonderoga, which guards the portage between Lake George and Lake Champlain. Spring for a behind-the-scenes specialty tour, and watch the fortress come to life through re-enactments. Fort Ticonderoga is the only historical site in the United States that tells a new story annually. This year, you get to step back into 1775 when Fort Ticonderoga was known as Fort Carillon and served as a busy French hub. Watch as French soldiers and native warriors prepare to fight for New France in an epic battle re-enactment.

CAMP OUT IN STYLE! Ever wonder how the elite camp (or if they camp at all)? Adirondack Great Camps was inspired by W.H.H. Murray’s book “Adventures in the Wilderness” and designed to blend-in with the natural surroundings. The lodges might look rustic, but these luxurious retreats serve as an insight into the Gilded Age. The elite of the early 19th century (think: Vanderbilt and Rockefeller) would make the trek to these retreats in the early summer for a few months of relaxation along the lakes’ shores – even if it took several weeks to get there. If you do a Gilded Age Tour, you’ll see some of the area’s extravagant lodges and other historic landmarks, like Great Camp Sagamore.

Adirondacks

New York City

Buffalo

Adirondack Mountains near Lake Placid

CANADIAN TRAVELLER SUMMER 2018 | 27CANADIAN TRAVELLER SUMMER 2018 | 27

New York State

® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.

Plan your New York State trip at ILOVENY.COM or with the I LOVE NEW YORK APP, and find a vacation you’ll love, such as:


GET YOUR BOAT ON. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that a place named Thousand Islands has a lot of boat traffic. In Clayton, spend a day with Clayton Island Tours on one of their classic wooden boats (or a pontoon boat) exploring the historical sites and landmarks around the region, including the historic 15-metre Rock Island Lighthouse. Here you can climb to the top of the lighthouse and take in the vistas from the lantern room, or visit the cozy light keeper’s home. For longer journeys, explore the Great Lakes with Blount Small Ship Cruises, which has journeys that navigate from one end of the state to the other.

GET UP CLOSE TO CASTLES. When we say castles, we mean the fairytale kind, with impressive stone towers, lavish gardens, and secret passageways. Boldt Castle on Alexandria Bay is a Rhineland-style structure with 120 rooms, built at the beginning of the 20th century. George C. Boldt, the owner of Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, built this villa on Heart Island for his wife, Louise. The Boldt family spent their summers here, luxuriating in an isolated world complete with Italian gardens, a dovecote and a drawbridge. Scottish-inspired Singer Castle on Dark Island with its granite walls and turrets is another must-see.

GO FISHING FOR A SHORE DINNER. Fishing tours and expeditions have been around for over a century in Thousand Islands, initially as an elite experience for the wealthy. Nowadays, guides will take you out for a day of fishing for walleye, northern pike, bass and more. Picture this: after a full day of casting and reeling, you head to a scenic location where your guide strikes up a fire and cooks your catch. Your meal comes with a garden salad (and a side of Thousand Islands dressing, of course), sweet corn and potatoes. Dessert tends to be French toast or “guide’s coffee” – perhaps with a shot of flavoured liqueur. Oswego County is famous for its fishing expeditions, and you’ll have no lack of choices.

T H E R E G I O N :

THOUSAND ISLANDS-SEAWAYAn endless sprawl of lush islands spread across sparkling lakes and rivers: the Thousand Islands-Seaway is a freshwater paradise. If you’re the kind of person who’s happiest on the water, you’ll find plenty to keep you busy here.

New York City

Buffalo

Thousand Islands-Seaway

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Singer Castle located on Dark Island

Thousand Islands

The Amish Trail


T H E R E G I O N :

CHAUTAUQUA-ALLEGHENY

Slow things down in Chautauqua-Allegheny, where a gentler pace

allows you to appreciate the mesmerizing mountains,

Amish farmland and peaceful lakes. This region makes for a great family vacation, but you’ll find bliss here no matter who you’re travelling with.

ROCK YOUR WORLD. Chautauqua-Allegheny has

some pretty peculiar geological formations, including the massive

rocks at Rocky City Park – sometimes referred to as one of the “Eight Wonders of the World.” Once a prehistoric ocean floor, Rock City Park is home to towering formations with naturally formed staircases, allowing you to explore every nook and cranny on the trail. The path is dotted with monolithic rocks of all

shapes and sizes, and once served as a fortress for Native Americans. There are several scenic lookouts in the park with breathtaking views over the Allegheny Plateau.

DRIVE THE AMISH TRAIL. Chautauqua-Allegheny is home to a large population of “old order” Amish families, meaning they live a traditional life without electricity, phones, cars or other modern amenities. These families have fine-tuned the art of living simply, and are masters at creating quilts, rugs, baked goods, baskets, furniture and toys. They also sell homegrown fruits and vegetables from their homes. A note of caution: no photography is allowed. The Amish Trail is self-guided and runs from Gowanda in the north to Randolph in the south. It isn’t a specific route, per se so you can drive or bike along at your leisure.

RELAX IN HOLIDAY VALLEY. Although a popular ski resort during the winter months, Holiday Valley transforms during the summer to provide a serene retreat for those in need of one. You can spend your mornings biking the rolling hills of Beaver Meadows or the Ellicottville-West Valley Loop, soaking up the fresh air, before easing your tense muscles with some massage therapy or a therapeutic body wrap at the Ellicottville Oasis Spa. The on-site pool complex is another great place to spend your afternoon, whether you want to sit poolside basking in the sun or let the kiddos run loose at the activity pool.

Chautauqua- Allegheny

New York City

Buffalo


T H E R E G I O N :

FINGER LAKESAptly named for its finger-shaped lakes, this region of New York offers a cosmopolitan experience with some outdoor adventure thrown in. If you’re a wine lover or an art connoisseur, this region is for you!

APPRECIATE THE ARTS. Head to Rochester, where the city’s vibrant arts community provides endless entertainment for culture vultures. A walk through the city’s East End will lead you to an array of shops, galleries, museums and theatres – including the famous Geva Theatre, where you can enjoy an evening of drama (or live music). Take in over 5,000 years of art at the Memorial Art Gallery, including works from Monet and Warhol. If the weather allows, stroll through the gallery’s sculpture park, and follow the interactive Poets Walk. Outside of Rochester, head to Corning’s famous Museum of Glass, with more than 3,500 years of glass art. If you’re in Orleans County, check in with the Genesee Orleans Art Council (known as GO ART!) to find out what fun artsy events are on.

GET WINE DRUNK! There are three distinct wine trails in the Finger Lakes region, and they all lead to beautiful things. The Cayuga Lake Wine Trail is America’s oldest and longest running trail, with 16 wineries as well as cideries, a meadery, four distilleries and a taproom. The Thirsty Owl Wine Company also has a bistro, where you can pair their popular Riesling with wine-friendly sandwiches and seasonal foods. Visit scenic Buttonwood Grove Winery on a Saturday evening, and you’re likely to catch some live music. If you have some time, explore the 35 wineries on the Seneca Lake Wine Trail, or stick to the more modest eight-member Keuka Lake Wine Trail. July plays host to the Finger Lakes Wine Festival, showcasing more than 80 vineyards and local artists, music and cuisine.

EMBRACE AN ADRENALINE RUSH. If you’re travelling with a family with a particular love for thrills, head to Green Peak Mountain Resort’s Outdoor Adventure Center. Challenge yourself on zip lines, scramble over suspension bridges on an aerial course, and try out the Bungee-Trampoline. The main attraction is the Nor’Easter Mountain Coaster: a two-person car that allows you to climb the mountainside and navigate sharp turns before an exhilarating descent into the forest. You control the speed!

Finger Lakes

New York City

Buffalo

Rainbow Falls of Watkins Glen

State Park Maid of the Mist


T H E R E G I O N :

GREATER NIAGARA The name Niagara is synonymous with its iconic waterfalls, but they’re not the only reason to visit this region. Lakes, shopping and bountiful wine all introduce some variety into your travel itinerary, promising an indulgent trip with some soul-stirring

nature mixed in.

FALL FOR NIAGARA FALLS. Is it even possible to visit Greater Niagara without spending time at Niagara Falls State Park? This is America’s first state park, with 162 hectares of challenging hiking trails,

gardens and perfect vantage points. Hop aboard the Maid of

the Mist and sail right up into the thundering falls, or relax on the

scenic trolley. If you have time, pay a visit to the Niagara Gorge Discovery

Center or the Niagara Adventure Theater to learn a little more about the area. When the sun sets, the falls light up in a spectacular colour show until midnight.

GO ON A SHOPPING ADVENTURE. Pack light, because you’re going to come home with a stuffed suitcase! Cheektowaga is home to the region’s largest mall, the Walden Galleria. There are more than 200 shops here, including everything from big names like Macy’s and Coach to small, independent shops. Pause for dinner at Restaurant Row (literally, a row of restaurants), or sample some of the 500 beers on tap at World of Beer. You can kick back here with a hefeweizen in hand while listening to live music. If you’re in the Niagara Falls area, check out the newly expanded Fashion Outlets of Niagara Falls – a Top 10 American Mall.

SEE GORGES, PARKS AND LOTS OF LOCKS. Move away from the bustle of Niagara Falls, and head to Letchworth State Park, home to a 27-kilometre-long gorge often referred to as the Grand Canyon of the East. The Genesee River pours over the famous waterfalls at Upper, Lower and Middle Falls, with vantage points along the 106-kilometre hiking trail network. Beyond Letchworth, head to Lockport to see the newly-restored Flight of Five Locks. Onboard a Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruise, you’ll learn a little about America’s historic waterways and how the locks helped to open America’s frontier.

T H E R E G I O N :

CAPITAL-SARATOGAHome to New York’s State Capitol, this region offers a lovely balance between historical landmarks and picturesque scenery. Take advantage of the natural springs in Saratoga Springs before moving on to the capital, Albany.

SPLURGE IN SARATOGA! Saratoga Springs is a quaint little town just beyond busy Albany, made famous for its world-class polo and horse racing. People come here to blow off a little steam...and a little cash at the casinos. Saratoga Springs is a place to splurge, whether you’re shopping in the boutiques along Broadway or spending a day at the spa. At the Roosevelt Baths and Spa, start out with a soak in Saratoga’s mineral baths before enjoying a facial, body wrap or massage.

GET A DOSE OF HISTORY IN ALBANY. Being New York’s state capital, Albany has a rich culture, and

a history that dates back to the 17th century. Start your explorations off at the New York State Capitol, where you can visit the Million Dollar Staircase and the Senate Chamber. This place is widely regarded as the country’s most

beautiful state capitol thanks to its ornate stone carvings and impressive

architecture. At the New York State Museum, spend time at the exhibit for the

9/11 World Trade Center attacks and recovery.

FIND PEACE AMONG THE FOSSILS. If the goal of your journey is to reconnect with nature, you can do so at Thatcher State Park. Home to abundant fossil-bearing formations, limestone cliffs, woodlands and forested hills, this park has some incredible views over the Hudson-Mohawk Valleys, as well as the Adirondack and Green Mountains. The Thompsons Lake Campground is an ideal place to camp out under the stars before welcoming another day in paradise.

GreaterNiagara

New York City

Buffalo

Capital-Saratoga

New York City

Buffalo

New York State Capitol Building in Albany

GREATER NIAGARA


Plan your New York State trip at ILOVENY.COM or with the I LOVE NEW YORK APP, and fi nd a vacation you’ll love, such as:

THOUSAND-ISLANDS SEAWAY

Plan your New York State trip at ILOVENY.COM

or with the I LOVE NEW YORK APP.

FROM the FRENCH and INDIAN WAR to a HOLOCAUST REFUGEE CAMPv i s i t o s w e g o c o u n t y . c o m / m u s e u m s

EXPERIENCE FORT ONTARIO

*Valid on select 2018 departures.

*

NEW YORK STATE

Legend: NYS Canal System

Amtrak Passenger Railroad Service


THOUSAND-ISLANDS SEAWAY

Plan your New York State trip at ILOVENY.COM

or with the I LOVE NEW YORK APP.

FROM the FRENCH and INDIAN WAR to a HOLOCAUST REFUGEE CAMPv i s i t o s w e g o c o u n t y . c o m / m u s e u m s

EXPERIENCE FORT ONTARIO

*Valid on select 2018 departures.

*

NEW YORK STATE

Legend: NYS Canal System

Amtrak Passenger Railroad Service

® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission. CANADIAN TRAVELLER SUMMER 2018 | 33

If the goal of your journey is to reconnect with nature, you can do so at Thatcher State Park. Home to abundant fossil-bearing formations, limestone cliffs, woodlands, and forested hills


T H E R E G I O N :

CENTRAL NEW YORK Craft beer, epic hikes, and fresh farm-to-table eats – what’s not to love about Central New York? There’s plenty to do otherwise too, especially if you’re a sports fanatic. This region is for the young and young at heart.

TAP INTO BEER! Don’t overlook Central New York’s impressive beer scene, where craft breweries are blossoming all across the region. Full Boar Craft Brewery and Tap Room in North Syracuse is one example, with a welcoming, intimate setting to spend a few hours sampling their wares (try the Close Enough Ale). You can’t leave Central New York without a stop at Blue Tusk, a quirky taproom with 69 taps boasting a variety of popular and rare craft beers. If Belgian

style ales are your favourite, you must visit Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown.

TAKE A HIKE. When you need to hike off those beer carbs, you have your pick of 563 kilometres of trails in the region – many serving as gateways to thousands of kilometres of other routes. Take advantage of the Finger Lakes Trail System, a vast network stretching from Western New York to deep into the Catskill Mountains.

If you love a good challenge, the view over Mine Kill State Park from Vroman’s Nose

is well worth the trek.

EAT FARM FRESH. There are 562 farms in Central New York, welcoming visitors with open arms. Learn about the tradition of pressing fresh cider at the Fly Creek Cider Mill & Orchard or sample maple syrup at Critz Farms. But for the ultimate taste of the region, head to Central New York Regional Farmers Market in – the most significant spread of food and craft vendors in the area.

T H E R E G I O N :

CATSKILLSThe Catskills draws folks of all types, from artists to adventurers to spiritualists seeking a certain magic only found in the region’s tranquil forests and high mountain peaks. It’s true -- this place is otherworldly.

GO WHERE THE ART IS. Artists have long made the Catskills their home. Country roads will take you to art galleries and antique shops in small artistic communities like Andes and Phoenicia, as well as famous

Woodstock, an art colony since 1902. If you happen to be in the Catskills in July, the Stagecoach Run Art Festival invites visitors into artists’ homes and studios to learn more about what they do.

HIT THE TRAIL. The Catskills Scenic Trail is a converted rail trail extending from Roxbury to Bloomville and is a relatively easy route with several accessible trailheads. You can walk, bike, or ride a horse, meandering through scenic farmland and around gentle sloping hills. Along the way, mountain vistas sprawl out before you. For something more difficult, the Hunter Mountain Fire Tower route is a great option. At an elevation of 1,231 metres, you’re awarded a well-deserved view from the tower.

GO GLAMPING! Combine luxury with some rustic accommodations, and camp out in the Catskills. The Blue Hills Farm Tent & Breakfast in Narrowsburgh offers guests a tent cabin for two nestled into a forest of oaks and maples. When you awake in the morning, go to the nearby log treehouse for a hearty homemade breakfast. You can also stay in a yurt at the Willowemoc Wild Forest Yurt.

Central New York

New York City

Buffalo

Catskills

New York City

Buffalo

North Syracuse

Sunset in the Catskills

Walkway Over the Hudson


CLIMB through the trees at Sky High Adventure Park, FLY down on the Sky Flyer Mountain Coaster. MOUNTAIN BIKE • SWIM HIKE • EXPLORE!

family Adventures begin at Holiday Valley

Ellicottville, New York

holidayvalley.com • 716.699.2345

FAMILY ADVENTURE PACKAGE $78 US

1 hour south of the peace bridge

per person for a family of 4

at the Inn at Holiday Valley

T H E R E G I O N :

HUDSON VALLEYSomewhere between the farms and small towns of the Hudson Valley, you’ll learn to slow down and enjoy the area’s serene setting. Fill your days with art, local food and big nature, and you’ll come home invigorated and refreshed.

GET YOUR ARTS FIX. The Hudson Valley is alive with opportunities to enjoy the performing arts. Bardavon is the oldest operating theatre in the state, with regular dance, music and theatrical performances. In Catskill, the Bridge Street Theatre is home to dazzling cabaret shows, and magic shows. In Katonah, head to the Caramoor Center for Music and the Arts. Enjoy a tour of historical Rosen House before a classical concert in the Spanish Courtyard.

GO AHEAD AND INDULGE. The Hudson Valley is home to the famous Culinary Institute of America, making the region perfectly poised for foodies. As a guest, you’re able to tour the institute and watch chefs in action. Thanks to the farm-to-table movement, restaurants in the Hudson Valley are celebrated for their fresh foods and innovative menus. Heritage Food + Drink in Wappingers Falls is a perfect example, specializing in new American cuisine using local products in their wood-grilled dishes. Crabtree Kittle House is another cozy dining spot offering local items, including an impressive artisanal charcuterie board.

STRETCH YOUR LEGS. Spending time in Hudson State Historic Park is a must, even if it’s just to see the Walkway Over the Hudson. This bridge is the longest elevated pedestrian bridge on the planet, standing at 65 metres tall and two kilometres long. From up here, you’ll have unbelievable views of the park and the river below. There are more than 40 kilometres of hiking trails in this area, including more challenging mountain trails with views of the Hudson Highland Range.

HudsonValley

New York City

Buffalo

wal

kway

.org




THE HOLLAND HOTEL

A TRIP TO NEW YORK CITY IS ON every “must-visit” list and for good reason: it boasts constant excitement offering the best in shopping, entertain-ment, dining and culture. Over half a million visitors travel to NYC each day

to see iconic attractions such as Times Square, the Empire State Building, Citi Field, Yankee Stadium and so many more.

But is it possible to visit on a budget? Eating out can be pricey and the average hotel rooms run upward of a few hundred dollars a night, which can quickly consume a large portion of your overall spending money.

INSIDER TIP: Book a hotel just outside of Manhattan that gives you easy access to transportation options. Even better, you’ll be able to see parts of the city usually reserved for locals!

The Holland Hotel’s prime location, at the entrance to the Holland Tunnel, will let you experience destinations on the New Jersey side of the Hudson River, such as Jersey City,

Hoboken and East Rutherford, home to great dining including the best pizza according to the N.Y. Times, MetLife Stadium and New York’s football teams. It’s also only minutes from Newark International Airport and the Cape Liberty Cruise Port, so travel is easy. Save more of your budget for your New York City adventures by staying at the Holland Hotel!

Hop on the PATH trains or take the ferry for a scenic ride to NYC as you pass through the New York Harbor, home to the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and one of the world’s busiest waterways.

Featuring 71 recently renovated rooms and offering the amenities you would expect from a national hotel chain, the Holland staff prides themselves on making sure each guest feels as comfortable as possible during their stay. Complimentary breakfast is served each morning to start your day off right, and coffee, tea and hot chocolate are always available in the lobby. Free Wi-Fi and parking are available for standard vehicles and tour buses.

Mention Canadian Traveller when you book direct at our hotel and RECEIVE 10% OFF!

By Nicole Federica

HotelThe Holland TheHollandHotel.com

175 12th Street, Jersey City, New Jersey 07310 201-963-6200

The Holland HotelGreenwich

Village

World Trade centre

Wall Street

City Hall

Little Italy

Soho

Tribeca

Holland Tunnel

Comfortable rooms Excellent location Famous Lower Manhattan

T H E R E G I O N :

LONG ISLANDWith its sandy coastline, jaw-dropping mansions, and historical sites, it’s sometimes hard to believe that Long Island is a relatively quick journey from New York City. It might as well be a world apart.

CHILL AT THE BEACH. Everyone loves Long Island for its white sandy beaches, endless boardwalks, and well-groomed trails. Pikes Beach and Sagg Main Beach both offer a pristine place to lounge and relax, but if you prefer a busier atmosphere, Jones Beach is the place to be. If you’re visiting during Fourth of July celebrations, this is the best beach to watch the fireworks show.

SEE LONG ISLAND’S HISTORICAL SIDE. George Washington once travelled the Long Island Heritage Trail (also known as the Spy Trail) to thank his loyalists, and you can go this route, too. Visit Theodore Roosevelt’s home at Sagamore Hill, and see where William Floyd (a signer of the Declaration of Independence) lived, by stopping by his home on the water. For something more light-hearted, check out the living museum at Lester

Farmhouse in East Hampton, where you’ll help “great grandma” prepare a meal from scratch.

ENJOY SOME WINE TIME. Long Island is the country’s most diverse wine region, producing high-quality wines in almost every style. Red, whites, sparkling, dessert – there’s a vineyard with your wine prefer-ence. Come sip chardonnay at the small family-owned Clovis Point Vineyard & Winery, or sit and stay awhile at the opu-

lent Tasting House at the Sparkling Pointe Vineyards. If you’re a rosé lover, soak up the

cozy country vibes in the Tasting Barn at the Old Field Vineyards.

T H E R E G I O N :

NEW YORK CITYIt’s hard to argue with anyone who says New York City is the best city on the planet – this place tends to win-over even the most hardened traveller. Whether it’s the city’s famous landmarks or the

upbeat attitude of New Yorkers, you’re guaranteed to feel the magic.

DO ALL THE FIRST-TIME HIGHLIGHTS. If you’re a first-time visitor, it’s worth checking off New York City’s significant highlights – they’re all worth your time. See the Empire State Building, Top

of the Rock, Brooklyn Bridge, Grand Central Station, Central

Park...the list goes on and on! Head to Times Square when the sun goes

down, and revel in the chaotic madness and bright lights of Manhattan’s centre. Top off your evening with a show on Broadway, and you’ll be singing the whole way home.

HANG OUT ON STATEN ISLAND. Take a free ride on the Staten Island Ferry from Lower Manhattan to Staten Island, and snap a few perfect photos of the Statue of Liberty along the way. Don’t hurry back to Manhattan, either – instead, head to the Snug Harbor Cultural Center and spend time wandering through the art galleries and gardens. There’s even a hedge maze in the Secret Garden.

GET BEYOND MANHATTAN. Explore New York City beyond the well-trodden route, and head over to the eccentric neighbourhood of Bushwick. Despite the area’s industrial roots, steel company owner Joe Ficalora created The Bushwick Collective to bring in a splash of colour. This huge outdoor art gallery showcases street art and graffiti by artists from all over the world. In June, the Col-lective throws a Block Party with live music, food trucks and local vendors.

Long Island

New York City

Buffalo

New York City

Buffalo

Sean

Mill

s

Fire Island

Manhattan Island


THE HOLLAND HOTEL

A TRIP TO NEW YORK CITY IS ON every “must-visit” list and for good reason: it boasts constant excitement offering the best in shopping, entertain-ment, dining and culture. Over half a million visitors travel to NYC each day

to see iconic attractions such as Times Square, the Empire State Building, Citi Field, Yankee Stadium and so many more.

But is it possible to visit on a budget? Eating out can be pricey and the average hotel rooms run upward of a few hundred dollars a night, which can quickly consume a large portion of your overall spending money.

INSIDER TIP: Book a hotel just outside of Manhattan that gives you easy access to transportation options. Even better, you’ll be able to see parts of the city usually reserved for locals!

The Holland Hotel’s prime location, at the entrance to the Holland Tunnel, will let you experience destinations on the New Jersey side of the Hudson River, such as Jersey City,

Hoboken and East Rutherford, home to great dining including the best pizza according to the N.Y. Times, MetLife Stadium and New York’s football teams. It’s also only minutes from Newark International Airport and the Cape Liberty Cruise Port, so travel is easy. Save more of your budget for your New York City adventures by staying at the Holland Hotel!

Hop on the PATH trains or take the ferry for a scenic ride to NYC as you pass through the New York Harbor, home to the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and one of the world’s busiest waterways.

Featuring 71 recently renovated rooms and offering the amenities you would expect from a national hotel chain, the Holland staff prides themselves on making sure each guest feels as comfortable as possible during their stay. Complimentary breakfast is served each morning to start your day off right, and coffee, tea and hot chocolate are always available in the lobby. Free Wi-Fi and parking are available for standard vehicles and tour buses.

Mention Canadian Traveller when you book direct at our hotel and RECEIVE 10% OFF!

By Nicole Federica

HotelThe Holland TheHollandHotel.com

175 12th Street, Jersey City, New Jersey 07310 201-963-6200

The Holland HotelGreenwich

Village

World Trade centre

Wall Street

City Hall

Little Italy

Soho

Tribeca

Holland Tunnel

Comfortable rooms Excellent location Famous Lower Manhattan

M O R O C C O38 | SUMMER 2018 CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Koutoubia mosque, Marrakech



WHEN I THINK BACK TO my visit to Marrakech, the memories return in waves and splices, like when you try to look through smoke or steam.

I remember waking up to the view of the Atlas Mountains from my wide balcony; a landscape of bright green palms

against ash-coloured and snow-capped mountains against the electric blue sky. I remember being offered sweet black tea everywhere I went, and standing in awe of the giant stork nests atop carpet shops and cafés.

Upon arrival, I made my way directly from the airport to La Mamounia, an immensely pretty and seductively mysterious hotel, and also one of Marrakech’s most iconic. The Hispano-Moresque structure dates back to the 12th century, and the hotel has been in operation since 1923. Its remarkable gardens – which include seven hectares of orange trees, rose bushes, fresh herbs and olive trees – were gifted to Prince Al Mamoun on the occasion of his wedding in the 18th century.

Some hotels, notably large American chains, are meant to insulate guests; to provide some kind of bland continuity that reminds them of home and insulates them from the world outside. But La Mamounia is about total immersion; a celebration of local flair and beauty, from the immense and detailed tiling to the Moroccan-style petit fours delivered to my room every afternoon. The hotel retains a luxurious vibe from the 1930s; the kind of romantic, regal and mysterious venue that might serve as a backdrop to an Agatha Christie novel.

I wandered the hotel’s hammam, completely stricken by the black-and-white tiled columns, polished marble floors and ornate hanging lamps. There, for the first time, I was vigorously scrubbed by a very friendly, maternal

B E Y O N D T H E W A L L S O F

M A R R A K E C HIn a city teeming with fantastic experiences virtually made for international visitors to show-off on Instagram, there’s another world travellers may not often see – and it’s in stepping outside of these boundaries that lessons often lie. BY SARAH TRELEAVEN

WANDERLUST

Koutoubia mosque, Marrakech


woman in her 50s who left no corner of my body untouched. When I got back to my room, having been rubbed and then slathered with rich moisturizer, I couldn’t believe how smooth my own skin was.

At night, I stopped in for a cocktail at the Churchill Bar – named for the former British prime minister, who was a regular – and then dined at Le Marocain for a modern take on local delicacies. At night, the grounds were almost eerily still, the smell of fresh jasmine blossoms mingled with cedar in the cool air.

But my hotel oasis was also the pinnacle of selective engagement with a culture – all of the orange trees and beautiful clay tagines and almost painfully luxurious tapestries tucked away behind a very high, well-protected fence that concealed even the city’s ubiquitous dust. And when I finally did leave those front gates, a whole new world opened. I was

Outdoor cafe near Galata Tower, IstanbulLeft to right: Marrakech's Souk, Beautiful tiled colonnade at La Mamounia


pleased to find that Marrakech was exactly as described to me: enchanting and a little mysterious, colourful and chaotic, and also, warmly welcoming.

I made my way to the market, seeing monkeys wearing diapers on long leashes, hopping on to cars and collecting change in metal cups. The maze-like mix of indoor and outdoor vendors displayed an appealing collection of colourful pottery, fragrant spices, ornate lanterns and plush camel souvenirs of all sizes.

I haggled over argon oil – at the time, very in vogue (and literally in Vogue, I’m sure) as the ultimate cure-all for dry, tired skin. I found myself eyeballing the women

who passed me in the medina, trying to guess their ages and wondering if some combination of drinking olive oil and applying argon oil was making each one of them appear at least five years younger.

I stopped in at a nearby carpet store and got more of the hard sell while drinking sugary tea and eating plump dates. Pattern after pattern in rich burgundies, blues and greens was unfurled before me, and I dug my bare feet into the pile as I listened to a convincing spiel that really made it seem completely crazy to walk away without buying a carpet – until I found out that the smallest one was USD $800 and I swiftly made my way back out onto the street.

The next morning, a traveller in my group announced a change in plans. She had heard about the leather tanneries on the city’s margins and she was keen to visit and take pictures. I recalled the hanging laundry district of Mumbai, the colourful array of garments that stretched as far as the eye could see – a delightful visual and the perfect place for pictures – and my curiosity was piqued.

But as soon as we arrived, I had a feeling akin to stepping on someone’s toes. We milled around the edge of dirt pits and watched as multiple generations of men, many stripped down to their underwear, stained by a rainbow of pigments,

Marrakech's famous square, Jamaa el Fna

SPAIN

ALGERIA

MAURITANIA

WESTERNSAHARADESERT

Atlantic Ocean

MOROCCO

CasablancaRabat

Marrakesh


dipped materials in the pools of toxic dye and then hung them to dry – brutal, marginalized work.

My colleagues began snapping, and several of the workers shot us disgusted looks. I had been interested in visiting – in seeing something I had never seen before – but when we arrived, I found myself unable to take a picture. Was I going to post this image alongside the ones of beautifully woven carpets and aromatic tagines full of tender chicken and quartered lemons?

I had gone to Marrakech with a mandate to explore the best places to buy a rug and rich oils; to indulge my love of opulent spa treatments and to stroll the beautiful orange orchard framing the umbrella-lined pool on the grounds of my hotel. But I also wanted to get a sense of what the city was like beyond typical tourist trappings, and then, there I was. And there was something both inescapably shaming and absolutely intoxicating about gawking at this scene and the players who clearly didn’t want us to watch. It didn’t feel like a cultural exchange, but it was a window into another world; I felt like I had wandered out of the territory of intrepid tourist and into the role of voyeur. But I also couldn’t look away, wanting to drink in a scene that was completely unfamiliar.

The next day, I visited the Majorelle Gardens and its Islamic Art Museum –

the electric blue home and shady paths rehabilitated by Yves Saint Laurent, and the pretty mix of ponds and palm trees. I was firmly back on the other side of the curtain. On the bus back to La Mamounia, I passed quaint cafés full of locals smoking shisha from long pipes and beautifully restored riads – all open to visitors, there to be seen and photographed and remembered.

Sometimes, now, I wish I did have a picture from that day at the tanneries, and that such a spectacular scene wasn’t something that exists solely in my memory. I wonder if we really did cross some boundary or if there was some other cultural taboo at play. Perhaps we were supposed to tip the workers in return for taking pictures, or if we came at the wrong time of day, or if there were soft leather purses we should have bought in return for watching. Maybe it would have been different if I came alone or with just a guide instead of a group of six.

It’s rare for travellers to step so far out of the realm of standard tourist practices in a destination like Marrakech. And in most places, travellers orient towards certain places and activities unlikely to leave a bitter taste – the sights and tastes that are different and illuminating but still comfortable. But there are invisible boundaries everywhere and they can become surprisingly perceptible in an instant. •CT

When You GoWHERE TO STAY: La Mamounia, one of Marrakech’s truly iconic properties, combines the best of luxury service with opulent interiors and magnificent grounds.

WHERE TO EAT: La Marocain at La Mamounia offers a modern take on Moroccan classics, and Le Francais offers formal French dining, a nod to the city’s international impressions.

WHAT TO DO: Visit the main market (day or night) for a wide range of souvenirs, from colourful caftans to intricate woodwork, and be sure to stop in at the Majorelle Gardens, an oasis in a hectic city. Spend some time exploring historical Marrakech, including the old Jewish quarter and the spectacular 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque.

Left to right: Man working in traditional Moroccan leather tanneries, Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech and the Berber Museum at the Majorelle Gardens,

Jemaa el Fna Square in front of the Koutoubia mosque at sunset

How to plan a

GETAWAY FOR TWOBY SARAH TRELEAVEN

BY SARAH TRELEAVEN

I HAVEN’T ALWAYS TRAVELLED SO WELL WITH SIGNIFICANT (or slightly less significant) others. I have walked the beautiful streets of Paris with grumpy people, and argued over which restaurant to eat at in London, a veritable cornucopia of delicious food. I have been the person who has felt suddenly claustrophobic in the face of relentless travel companionship, and the person who may or may not have had a meltdown in a Québec City burger joint in response to this rising anxiety.

But over my many years of travelling with friends, boyfriends and even one very long duo trip to China with my mother, I have come to see successful paired travelling as less of a talent and more of a skill – in other words, you can improve it through a little practice and a lot of conscientiousness. In that spirit, here are five tips for successfully planning a getaway for two:

how to

MEET IN THE MIDDLE.While it can be easy to fixate on differences – especially once the jetlag kicks in – travelling with another works best if you can channel your energy into mutually enjoyable activities. It can help a lot if you and your travel companion are both equally interested in, say, hopping in and out of Rome’s many grand museums, passing days slowly browsing the diverse goods in Bangkok’s jam-packed markets, or spending an evening bar crawling to the accompaniment of live music in New Orleans.

For me, that common element has typically been food. While I’ve often been willing to take the lead when it comes to research, making reservations, figuring out the best local specialties, and convincing my travel companion that, yes, it is worth it to stand in line for 45 minutes for a particularly good custard tart, I’ve always travelled with individuals who have a similar appreciation for food. And so, while we also diversify our itinerary, we know we can build a plan around this key shared interest, whether it’s slurping up bowls of shrimp wonton noodle soup in Hong Kong or stopping for tacos at every street corner in Mexico City.

GET OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE.Last spring, my boyfriend somehow talked me into boarding a container ship for five days, sailing from Ashdod, Israel to Salerno,

Italy – something I never would have come up with on my own. After about 24 hours without Internet (and rapidly tiring of behind-

the-scenes industrial tours), I briefly considered ditching him and

swimming ashore. But just as that thought percolated, I realized I needed to embrace the things he loved and make the most of the trip.

After that, we worked as a team: I spent time sucking up to

the chef to score us extra portions of delectable hand-rolled canolis

while he sucked up to the steward in charge of the espresso machine. We made twice daily trips to the bridge to chat with the captain, who made us cups of tea from the spices he collected all over the world, including orange peels and star anise. In the evenings, as the sun set over the Mediterranean, I would drag chairs onto the deck

while he sweet-talked one of the dishwashers into letting him

squeeze amazingly juicy Israeli oranges so we could sip on Screwdrivers as the ship slowly moved into the calm darkness ahead.

TAKE TURNS.Over five days, I came to appreciate

the unadulterated quiet of that container ship. But after we hopped off the boat in Naples, it was my turn to be indulged. We checked into the swanky Hotel Palazzo


Caracciolo, a 13th century palace with elegant period details much more my speed than the ship’s spare quarters.

It was my turn to dictate the evening’s itinerary, so we found our way to the hotel’s ornate courtyard to unwind with a couple of spritzes. Then we took to the streets, seeking out a Neapolitan pizza place recommended by a Roman friend – who had neglected to mention that it was also the pizza place Julia Roberts eats at in the movie “Eat, Pray, Love.” With a lineup about 100 people deep, I moved into the take-out line while my boyfriend secured a table at the bar just around the corner and ordered us Campari sodas.

We opened the box to a perfect pizza with a blistered and chewy crust, olive oil laced tomato sauce and doppio Buffalo mozzarella. In the middle of the city, surrounded by the light chaos of Naples and wearing fancy shoes definitely unsafe for walking a cargo ship’s slippery decks, I was happy to share an experience a little more to my tastes.

MAKE IT A FAMILY AFFAIR.This might seem counterintuitive, but sometimes travelling with the whole family or a big group of friends can actually be easier than travelling with just one. And there’s a reason for this: It takes the pressure off of the duo and more evenly distributes the companionship, essentially creating relationship escape hatches. Are you sick of explaining to your mother that you wear jeans with holes in them on purpose? Go hang out with your brother. Sick of your brother’s constant campaigning for everyone in the world to go vegan? Go find your father. And so on and so on, until you retreat, alone, to the hotel steam room for a break.

PL AN FOR TIME APART.And when it comes to co-travelling, breaks

are essential. More than once, I sometimes travel to Paris with a good

friend of mine who always levies a specific condition: separate hotel rooms. At first, this seemed foolish. Why not split a room and have more money to spend on cute ballet

flats and rich chocolate eclairs? But she already knew something it took

me years to learn: When travelling with someone, it’s essential to build in time apart – no matter how well you get along.

While a successful on-the-road companionship requires each person to indulge the other’s interests, it’s also great when you can just stretch your legs and do your own thing. In Paris but not in the mood to check out anything described as “medieval”? No problem. Split up and spend your alone time lying on soft grass with a croissant in each hand. And even better, when you later meet up for cocktails, you’ll have different stories to tell and fresh inspiration for planning your next trip together. •CT

CAMERON BAILEY ON THE INTERSECTION OF PLACE & FILMINTERVIEW BY TERRILYN KUNOPASKI

As the artistic director for the Toronto International Film Festival, CAMERON BAILEY has been around the world a few times over in search of pieces to showcase at the much-anticipated annual event. It’s in this experience that he has come to truly understand the importance of place in storytelling, gain an appreciation for film across different cultures, and foster diverse perspectives when it comes to showcasing productions on a global stage. He tells Canadian Traveller more in this one-on-one interview.

You have a love for film, and a love for travel. Did you ever anticipate that these two things would intersect?You know, I learned it as I went along. I first came to film through studying it in university, so it was a very academic exercise – looking at a film and thinking about it and writing about it. I didn’t realize until much later that you can go to places where people are making the films – you can meet the filmmakers and you can have great experiences travelling all over the world and going to where people are making movies.

When it comes to storytelling and film, what do you think is the importance of location and the importance of place? It’s important in so many ways. We’re all subject to the dominant way of screen storytelling, which is Hollywood filmmaking. And there’s some beautiful and dazzling things about what Hollywood has offered us. But, it has also told us that there’s one main way to tell screen stories – that’s just not the case. So it’s great when you travel because you get to see different kinds of sensibilities. For example, what’s normal in a film in Eastern Europe might be considered astringent and sometimes harsh to us; there’s sense of humour that has a much sharper edge to it than what we find in North America.

Then, there is the North American idea of a single protagonist; the single hero who guides you through the story and you follow their journey. That’s not the way that West Africans traditionally tell stories. They are more social and all about the group dynamic. That’s true in

much of East Asian cinema as well; how the individual relates to the group is most important – those stories that conclude in harmony as opposed to the hero triumphing as an individual.

Right. And I understand that’s been part of what you’ve done with TIFF – taking it away from what may have been perceived by some as pandering to Hollywood for the sake of making it more inclusive on a global scale. I think different types of storytelling is really important – increasingly so as our world is more connected through digital technology, and the fact that we can get on planes and go to another part of the world in the same day. These realities mean we have to understand each other; we’re in each other’s lives in a much more prominent way than we used to be, so it helps to understand what it’s like to live in an Afghan village, for example, as opposed to a city like Toronto – what’s different and what’s the same. But I think there are some things that are common that can unite people through an art form like film. Take movie stars and how thrilling it is to watch somebody on a giant screen that you identify with; to have the chance to see that person in the flesh and be in the room with them. We deliver that with TIFF, which is great – but it’s not just Hollywood stars. Certainly in a city like Toronto, if you bring in stars from South Korea, India, Egypt, you can easily get audiences as big as you can when you bring in Hollywood stars. It’s exciting to see that the connection people have with their screen idols is really universal.

TRAVEL MUSE



Do you see contrasts in the approach to how people screen films in different parts of the world?There are some things that are very common from place to place, and then, other things differ – even something as simple as snacks. We’re so used to popcorn being a go-to here in North America, but elsewhere, popcorn is not the thing. In South Korea, when I first went to the Busan Film Festival, it’s dry squid; you get a little package full of dried squid and you have that watching your movie and people munch on that like they would on popcorn here. It really varies from place to place. Every country has their own movie-going traditions.

I read that it’s important for you, when you’re in the selection process, to go to the places from which the films are coming in order to understand the people and the place. Can you tell me about that?It’s really easy now because of digital technology and the Internet to just ask someone to send you a link to a screener of a film and watch it on your computer screen. But it’s not the same as going to the place. When you go

to the place, you get the full experience. First of all, you’re taken out of your own world. You’re put in some other place. If I go to Calcutta or Chennai, I don’t know too many people there, and I’ll be taken to a screening room or an editing room where someone is still working on their film. You take off your shoes when you go inside, and the sounds and the smells and the sights and the textures are all different from what’s familiar. You might be offered sweet, milky tea and some little sandwich – all of those things enhance the experience of getting into the film. And when you’re watching the film, no matter what kind of movie it is, there’s a social reality that’s represented in the film and in things that people take for granted; how the street scenes look, how a living room in Calcutta is different than a living room in Vancouver. All of those things that you’re watching on screen have a resonance in the world that you’re in, because you’ve transported yourself – and that makes a big difference.

Also, you get to meet the filmmakers and talk to them. They’ll tell you things that you won’t get in an e-mail or even in a phone call; you learn more about how and, especially, why they made the film they did. •CTThis interview has been edited for brevity and clarity.

Go to a country that dates back thousands of years and it’s all there visibly everywhere you go – the religion, the culture, the languages – it’s just a different depth of experience.

Bailey with his family at the Taj Mahal

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CANADIAN, EH?There’s nothing we love more than supporting our fellow Canuk entrepreneurs. So we’ve rounded-up a few favourites that are travel-perfect, for those who love homegrown products as much as we do. BY MEGAN HONAN

1. SUNSCREEN SAFETY This natural skin care company offers an SPF 30 designed for travellers. It provides a natural tint of colour to the skin and is water resistant, cutting down your makeup routine when you want to get out and explore. You can get the aptly named Consonant The Perfect Sunscreen for $45 at consonantskincare.com.

2. BACKPACK HACK Herschel is quickly becoming a Canadian household name and for good reason. Styled in a mountaineering silhouette, the Little American Backpack is the perfect carry-on accompaniment for when you want to limit your luggage. Find it for $129.99 at herschel.ca.

3. DOWN BY THE BLUFFSEver been hiking for hours feeling the sun beat down on you? Try Buff Canada’s UV protection buffs, which provide 95 per cent protection from the sun. The Canada Collection specifically features signature Canadian landmarks. Designed by Cameron Stevens from Burlington, Ontario, they’re available at buyabuff.com for $27.

4. SIMPLE SKINCARE Beauty brand Deciem features 30 ml products – making them carry-on friendly – for an affordable price. Consider adding the Hylamide Booster to your skincare routine, which reduces water retention below the skin, puffiness and oiliness after a long flight. Find it in stores and online for $20 at deciem.com.

5. MAD HATTERTilley is an iconic Canadian brand and their latest collection doesn’t disappoint. The Toyo1 Audrey is the perfect accessory for the beach and is made out of paper derived from rice. And the best part? It can be packed and reshaped with minimal effort. Visit tilley.com to buy for $120.

6. ALL-WEATHER FOR EVERY ADVENTUREWith company headquarters located in the Canadian mountain wilderness, it’s no surprise Arc’teryx specializes in technical high-quality adventure gear. Try the Gamma MX Hoody for a wind-resistant, lightly insulated jacket for your next mountaineering journey. Available for $400 at arcteryx.com.

7. GET YOUR GOOD SIDEWhile you may be tired of seeing selfie sticks on your travels, consider giving the Spivo 360 a try. This Ottawa-based company offers a selfie stick compatible with your smartphone or camera that can swivel 180-degrees at the click of a button to easily capture every angle. Find your perfect travel companion online for $49.99 at spivo.com.


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O R N O T T O D U KO R A L ?

T O

DUKORAL® is a drinkable vaccine that may help you spend your vacation where you want – and not in the bathroom.

VALNEVA Canada Inc.600-3535, Saint-Charles Blvd.Kirkland (Montreal), Quebec H9H 5B9

© 2017 VALNEVA Canada Inc.All trademarks used under license.

DUKORAL® is indicated for the prevention of and protection against cholera and diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic Escherichia coli (ETEC)-producing heat-labile enterotoxin (LT) (either LT alone or both LT and heat stable enterotoxin (ST) together).DUKORAL® does not treat diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic E.coli once it develops. Not everyone who gets vaccinated will be fully protected. DUKORAL® will only protect against cholera and LT-producing enterotoxigenic E coli (ETEC). Therefore, precautions to avoid contaminated food or water should be taken. Allergic reactions and side effects such as abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever, nausea and vomiting may occur. Rehydration measures should be taken in case of diarrhea.

Visit dukoralcanada.comfor more information.

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