mol12 log p19-27
TRANSCRIPT
August 23rd Hornsund; Gåshamna, Burgerbukta GPS NOON position: 76º57’N 15º50’EAir Temperature: 3°C
Was it just me, or did everyone dream of having an Arctic fox for a pet last night?After sailing through the open waters around Sørkapp we had arrived at Hornsund, noted for its striking landscape. Our landing was at Gåshamna, where the remains of an English whaling site (1618-1650) are still visible. Noteworthy here were the many bowhead mandibles. When the whales were stripped of their blubber at the beach, the carcasses were left to rot at the water’s edge. However, the heads of the whales must have been toted marginally inland to where the whalers could efficiently remove the baleen plates.
At the far end of the bay are the remains of the Russian Arc-de-Meridian station, but we chose to hike in the opposite direction. Why? Although none of the staff had ever been west of the whaling site, we had reports of a Pomor settlement there. After a short hike we discovered another double whaling oven (not recorded in our literature), further Arc-de-M relics, and some well preserved fox traps. Three historic eras before we even reached the
Pomor site.
Christopher asked us how it would be possible to identify the remains as belonging to the Pomors. And you answered: the foundations were of a typical Pomor ‘drop-wall’ construction; the presence of red bricks within the foundations is a hallmark of Pomor structures – they used them for their stoves (later Norwegian hunters brought metal stoves with them). We learned that the Pomors (‘po’ & ‘mor’ = ‘people’ of the ‘sea’) came to Spitsbergen from Russia’s White Sea region ca. 1700-1850 to hunt walruses, polar bears and foxes. These hunters, sent north by mercantile agencies and monasteries, wintered on the islands to gain access to the best bear and fox furs.
It remains unclear as to why they stopped coming to Spitsbergen, but by the early 19th century they were being supplanted by hunters from Norway.
Not to be upstaged by the Pomors, Barnaby challenged the Spitsbergen elements with his own approach – an icy swan(ish) dive into the sea. Steaming hot soup, please.
Back on the Molchanov we lifted anchor and headed deeper into the magnificent fjord system of Hornsund. By 16:30 we had arrived at Burgerbukta, ready to go: our last Zodiac cruise of the trip. Our departure was even more expedient because we had seen a polar bear swimming from an iceberg to the shore. Once in the Zodiacs we located the bear walking up from the beach. Moving slowly towards it, the bear scampered off, and we immediately decided to let it be. There were 180 bears tagged in Spitsbergen this year, and most of those will do their best to avoid further hominid encounters.
Cruising into Burgerbukta it became clear the ice would prevent us from reaching the glacier front. No worries - this was a wonderful ice cruise anyway, and a great final time in the Zodiacs. Blue ice, blue ice, mirrored mountains, mirrored mountains. Turning off the engines we floated and listened to the swishing, crackling and popping of the ice.
Back on the ship we kicked off our wellies and slipped on our dancing shoes. After a patented Troels briefing and recap, it was out to the aft deck. Chefs Richie and Lee, with the assistance of Gemma and the two Anastasias, had prepared an incredible barbeque feast. Dining surrounded by such spectacular scenery was a first for many. After a few cups of mulled wine and a little dessert, our Bosun DJ Anatoly cranked up the music and before you knew it, everyone was dancing around in a train chain – it was a great way to keep warm in 3°C. When we weighed anchor at midnight, most set off for bed. The ocean swell would carry us north overnight, to our penultimate destination – Bellsund.
August 24th
Bellsund; Ingeborgfjellet, AkseløyaSailing for Longyearbyen, Isfjorden GPS NOON position: 77º45’N 14º28’EAir Temperature: 8°COur final day found us in Bellsund, where we went ashore at Ingeborgfjellet, site of a now deserted little auk colony. We managed to clamber in and out of our boats and up onto a thick mossy area (no mean feat for some of the night owls). Scanning the scree slopes for foxes, we noticed a small herd of reindeer near our position. Troels led us slowly towards the four beasts for a closer look. Not the least concerned with our presence, this quartet was the best reindeer sighting of our voyage. Those who lingered a while longer got some terrific photographs of them with some dramatic mountains and the Molchanov in the background.
Our final tundra hike led us over to an odd little place named Camp Millar, an early 20th century Northern Exploration Company (NEC) mining camp. From 1910-1920 Ernest Manfield’s NEC mined all over west Spitsbergen – for marble, coal and, at Camp Millar, gold. Like most other mining ventures in Spitsbergen, it was never very profitable. Near the adet and rusting carts, Christopher talked about mining and the role it played in Spitsbergen land claims a century ago. He also made mention of the connection between the polar heroes, north and south (e.g. Frank Wild led an NEC coal mining expedition to Camp Morton, just a few miles from here). The slow stroll back to the landing beach continued to fascinate. Apart from the great vistas, there were additional mining and hunting relics, flora, and geology.
As we settled into lunch and some delicious focaccia, the Molchanov steamed a short way across the bay to anchor at baguette-shaped Akseløya (8km long x less than 1km wide). Akseløya blocks the entrance to Van Mijenfjord, which means that the sea ice remains in this fjord much later into the summer than elsewhere along the west coast. This has been a problem for the Norwegian coal mine at Sveagruva, deep inside Van Mijenfjord, as an ice breaker is required each spring for access. Akseløya has a marvellous geological landscape. Akseløya is geology. The island’s upturned strata run beneath the sea and straight up the neighbouring mountain faces – a geometric delight. Our walk took us north along the exposed strata, before returning down the east coast to the little landing beach. Some of our regulars joined us this afternoon: reindeer, terns, great and Arctic skuas, and purple sandpipers. Even an Atlantic puffin has escorted our boats to the landing. The warm weather continued and we worked up a good sweat on this hike (perhaps exacerbated by the intense dispute between the Canadian and Danish factions over the sovereignty of a tiny Canadian island, Hansø).
Returning to the ship the light had changed and the mountainside glowed different shades of green. Anchored near our ship was the two-masted schooner
Noorderlicht (1910), and both Troels and Christopher popped over for a brief hello with some of their colleagues. But minutes later, the Molchanov began sailing for Longyearbyen. With the sun sparkling off of the snow-capped peaks of Spitsbergen’s west coast, we understood why Willem Barentsz, the discoverer of these lands in 1596, referred to them as spitsbergen, or ‘pointed peaks.’
Gemma’s lecture ‘How to Pay Your Ship Account’ was well-received by all. Prior to dinner we joined Troels and the staff in the bar for our final recap, where we also received our disembarkation briefing, and this trip log…Our farewell dinner rounded out the day, and gave Troels a chance to formally introduce Richie, Lee, and the two Anastasias. As for you - you have been such an enthusiastic and interesting troupe. Our weather was phenomenal, and our wildlife encounters unsurpassable. It has been a pleasure to share this voyage with you all.
TOTAL DISTANCE TRAVELLED 1122 Nautical miles 1291 Statute miles 2078 Kilometers
NORTHERNMOST LATITUDE 80023’N
On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, the staff would like to say how wonderful it was having you aboard. We are looking forward to welcoming you aboard again – north or south – in the not too distant future.
Hello, history fans! This is a very succinct bibliography for those of you wishing to read further on the exploits of the northernmost explorers. Cartographic enthusiasts will take delight in Derek Hayes’ An Historical Atlas of the Arctic (2003). From the works of Claudius Ptolemaeus, to August Petermann’s whimsical ‘Open Polar Sea,’ to the latest satellite imagery, this book is an excellent resource. In addition to covering ‘farthest north’ records, entire sections are devoted to the Northwest and Northeast Passages, and to the Russian explorers. A must read.
Fergus Fleming’s Ninety Degrees North (2001) covers most of the better documented expeditions that attempted to reach the North Pole. Well-written and informative, it focuses on some of the most dramatic expeditions ever undertaken. Not for the faint hearted.
Those of you seeking information on the indigenous peoples of the Arctic can begin with Robert McGhee’s Ancient People of the Arctic (1996). Ever heard of the Independence I people? What about Dorset culture? For anyone who thought that today’s Inuit are the same people that occupied the Arctic regions of North America and Greenland millennia ago…this book is for you.
There are also several good journals (e.g. Arctic) devoted to the Arctic in general, but which also contain historical articles from time to time. Virtually all European and North American expeditions to the Arctic from the 1840s onward have separate works devoted to them -- check out the Polar section of your local library or bookstore. The web, of course, can be very helpful, so long as you remember that about 30% of the information you come across will be spurious. Enjoy!
Birds SvalbardENGLSIH NORWEGIAN LATIN GERMAN FRENCH DUTCH
Arctic skua Tyvjo Stercorarius parasiticus
Schmarotzer-raubmöwe
Labbe parasite Kleine jager
Arctic Tern Rødnebbterne Sterna paradisaea Küstenseeschwalbe Sterne arctique Noordse sternBarnacle Goose Hvitkinngås Branta leucopsis Weisswangengans Bernache nonnette Brandgans
Black Guillemot Teist Cepphus grylle Gryllteiste Guillemot á miroir blanc
Zwarte zeekoet
Brunich’s Guillemot Polarlomvi Uria lomvia Dickschnabellumme Guillemot de brunnich DikbekzeekoetCommen Eider Ærfulg Somateria mollissima Eiderente Eider common Eider eendCommon Guillemot Lomvi Uria aalge Trottellumme Guillemot de treol ZeekoetFulmar Havhest Fulmarus glacialis Eissturmvogel Petrel fulmar Noordse stormvogelGlaucous gull Polarmåke Larus hyperboreus Eismöwe Goéland bourgmestre Grote burgemeesterGreat black-backed Gull Svartbak Larus marinus Mantelmöwe Goéland marin Grote mantelmeeuw
Great skua Storjo Stercorarius skua Skua Grande lappe Grote jagerGrey Phalarope Polarsvømmesnipe Phalaropus fulicarius Thorshühnchen Phalarope á bec large Rosse franjepootIvory Gull Ismåke Pagophila eburnea Elfenbeinmöwe Mouette ivoire Ivoor meeuwKittiwake Krykkje Rissa tridactyla Dreizehenmöwe Mouette tridactyle DrieteenmeeuwLong-tailed duck Havelle Clangula hyemalis Eisente Harelde boréal IlseendLittle Auk Alkekonge Alle alle Krabbentaucher Mergule nain Kleine alkPink-footed Goose Kortnebbgås Anser brachyrhynchus Kurtzschnabelgans Oie á bec court Kleine rietgans
Pomarine skua Polarjo Stercorarius pomarinus
Spatelraubmøve Labbe pomarin Middelste jager
Puffin Lundefugl Fratercula arctica Papageitaucher Macareux moine Papegaai duikerPurple Sandpiper Fjæreplytt Calidris maritima Meerstrandläufer Bécasseau violet Paarse strandloperRed-throated diver Smålom Gavia stellata Sterntaucher Plongeon catmarin Roodkeel duikerSnow Bunting Snøspurv Plectrophenax nivalis Schneeammer Bruant des neiges Snneuwgors
SEA- AND LANDMAMMALS SVALBARDENGLISH NORWEGIAN LATIN GERMAN FRENCH DUTCHArctic Fox Polarrev Alopex lagopus Polar fuchs Renard arctique PoolvosBearded Seal Storkobbe Erignathus barbatus Bartrobbe Phoque barbu Baardrob
Bowhead Whale Grønlandshval Balaena mysticetus Grönlandwal Baleine di Groenland Groenlandse walvisFin Whale Finnhval Balaenoptera physalus Finnwal Gewone vinvisHarp Seal Grønlandssel Pagophilus groenlandicus Sattelrobbe Phoque du Groenland ZadelrobMinke Whale Vågehval Balaenoptera acutorostrata Zwergwal Petit rorqual DwergvinvisPolar Bear Isbjørn Ursus maritimus Eisbär Ours blanc IjsbeerRinged Seal Ringsel Phoca hispida Ringelrobbe Phoque marbré RingelrobSvalbard Reindeer
Svalbardrein Rangifer tarandus platyrhynchus
Svalbard Renntier Renne du Spitzbergen Rendier
Walrus Hvalros Odobenus rosmarus Walross Morse Walrus
Plants SvalbardENGLISH NORWEGIAN LATIN GERMAN FRENCH DUTCHSvalbard Poppy Svalbardvalmue Papaver dahlianum Svalbard-Mohn Pavot de Svalbard Spitsbergen papaverAlpine Saxifrage Snøsildre Saxifraga nivalis Schnee-Steinbrech Saxifrage spec.Bog Saxifrage Myrsildre Saxifraga hirculus Moor-Steinbrech Saxifrage spec. Bokjes steenbreekBrook Saxifrage Bekkesildre Saxifraga rivularis Bach-Steinbrech Saxifrage spec. Beek steenbreekDrooping Saxifrage
Knoppsildre Saxigraga cernua Nickende Steinbrech Saxifrage penchée Hangende steenbreek
Purple Saxifrage Røsildre Saxifraga oppositifolia
Roter Steinbrech Saxifrage a feuilles opposées
Zuiltjes Steenbreek
Tufted Saxifrage Tuesildre Saxifraga cespitosa Rasen-Steinbrech Saxifrage spec. SteenbrekkArctic Chickweed Ishavsstjerneblomst Stellaria humifusa Artische Sternmiere Arctic Mouse-ear Snøarve Cerastium arcticum Arktisches
HornkrautCéraiste spec.
Knotweed Harerug Polygonum viviparum
Knöllchen-Knöterich Renouée vivipare Levendbarende Duizendknoop
Cushioned Saltmarshrass
Puccinellia phryganodes
Arktischer Salzschwaden
Cinquefoil Potentilla spec. Fingerkraut Potentille spec. VingerkruitWoolly Lousewort Ullmyrklegg Pedicularis
dasyanthaWolliges Läusekraut Pédiculaire spec. Kartelblad
Hairy Lousewort Lodnemyrklegg Pedicularis hirsuta Behaartes Pédiculaire spec. Kartelblad
Plants SvalbardLäusekraut
Spider Plant Saxifraga flagellaris Faden-Steinbrech .Pygmy Buttercup Dvergsoleie Ranunculus
pygmaeusZwerg-Hahnenfuss Rnoncule nain Dwerg boterbloem
Moss Campion Fjellsmelle Silene acaulis Stengelloses Leimkraut
Silene spec. Stengelloze silene
Mountain Avens Reinrose Dryas octopetala Silberwurz Dryade ZilverwortelMountain Sorrel Fjellsyre Oxyria digyna Alpen-Säuerling Oxyria BergzuringPolar Cress Polarkarse Cardamine nymanii Polar-Schaumkraut Cardamine spec.Polar Scurvy-grass
Skjørbuksurt Cochlearia ifficinalis Gebräuchliches Löffelkraut
Lepelblad
Polar Willow Polarvier Salix polaris Polarweide Saule Polaire PoolwilgWhitlow-grasses Rublom Draba spec. Felsenblümchen Draves
Species list compiled by Dr. Parissa Yazdi
E-mail list - for private use only CABIN NAME E-MAIL311 Anne Holvast [email protected] Marcel Nieuwenhuis [email protected] Svetlana Griu [email protected] Sarah Anne Gillman [email protected] Arthur Gillman [email protected] Rosemary Gillman [email protected] Ursula Gruetter [email protected] Lucretia Jose Woerde [email protected] Susan Margaret Kramer [email protected] Carole Jane Nicholls [email protected] Barnaby Davies [email protected] Sabine Maria Goldhahn [email protected] Joerg Goldhahn [email protected] Vanessa Ranzato [email protected] Timothy Clackson [email protected] Justin Clackson [email protected] Norbert Boss [email protected] RobTully [email protected] Ann Clackson [email protected]
413 Elisabeth Catharina [email protected](EMAIL ADDRESS OF SON)
415 Roberto Cravarezza [email protected] Kees De Waal
[email protected] Sue De Waal421 Marius De Koff
[email protected] Annemiek Zanders425 Thomas MacDonald
[email protected] Cecelia Conlan426 Yvette Marian Knaap
[email protected] Willem Simons505 Engele Aalmers (Eddy)
[email protected] Anna Lansink (Mieke)509 Lynn Pearson [email protected] Cynthia Gialanella [email protected] Maurice Charles Henry [email protected] Jennifer Henry [email protected] Jonathan Peberdy [email protected] Michelle Louise Roarty [email protected] Pieter De Jong
[email protected] Martha De Jong518 Bill Bruce
[email protected] Maureen Bruce521 Alessandro Corbari [email protected] Elena Luisa Ghirardi [email protected] Ilse Bruinsel [email protected] Dilia Leitner [email protected] Gemma Heaney [email protected] Troels Jacobsen www.polarimages.dk Christopher Gilbert [email protected] Parissa Yazdi [email protected]