[modern soapmaking] efficiency in scaling …in... · swatch mania! by kenna of modern soapmaking...

SWATCH MANIA!By Kenna of Modern Soapmaking

www.modernsoapmaking.com

[MODERN SOAPMAKING]EFFICIENCY IN SCALING

AN INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHINGEfficiency in Scaling: Introduction to Masterbatching is 27 pages of useful

information for the soapmaker considering scaling their production and

batching their oils and/or lye solution.

This resource covers the benefits of masterbatching, prerequisites of mas-

terbatching, the three limitations, how to overcome limitations, how to

batch oils, lye solution, and other ingredients, and a huge compilation of

resource links.

By Kenna of Modern Soapmakingwww.modernsoapmaking.com

COPYRIGHT, LEGAL, & DISCLAIMERThis publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable inter-

national, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are

not allowed to give or sell this document to anyone else.

If you received this publication from anyone other than ModernSoapmaking.com, you’ve re-

ceived a pirated copy. Please contact Kenna via www.modernsoapmaking.com, if this happens.

Please note that all of the information presented in this publication is based on personal experi-

ence and anecdotal evidence. Although I have made every attempt to achieve complete accuracy

of the content in this publication, I assume no responsibility for errors or omissions.

Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular formula

or method may not be exactly suited to the information included within; and you should adjust

your use of the information and recommendations accordingly.

Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the proper-

ty of their respective owners, and are used only for reference.

Lastly, use your head. Nothing in this publication is intended to replace common sense, legal,

medical or other professional advice, and is meant to inform the reader of my experiences so

that they may garner whatever information is pertinent to them.

Enjoy it for what it is, and expand your sudsy horizons!

Copyright © 2013-2015, Kendra Cote, Modern Soapmaking, LLC. All rights reserved worldwide.

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EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING COPYRIGHT, LEGAL, & DISCLAIMER

INTRODUCTIONMasterbatching, or batching (for those who find the word “masterbatch” a little silly), is a great

step in efficiency for both hobbyists and soapmakers in business. Any prep work a soapmaker

can do in advance is going to ultimately save them time, masterbatching oils and/or lye solution

is no different!

The hobbyist soapmaker is free to experiment on techniques, formulas, processes, and designs,

and is likely to be exploring every nook and cranny that soapmaking offers. Experimenting as a

hobbyist paves the way to a solid foundation of knowledge to build upon, as for some, seeing

really is believing!

However, the soapmaker who is selling their soap as a product is likely approaching soapmaking

from a different perspective. Consistency in a quality product is a key factor. Customers expect

the same bar batch after batch, even if the product is handmade.

Additionally, efficiency in production is imperative for an entrepreneurial soapmaker as it allows

them to focus on other aspects of running a business. Streamlining production for a company is

one of the best ways to reduce the bottom line, and in business, the bottom line matters – time is

money.

Some soapmakers will even find themselves in between these two groups, whether they are

going into business, or expanding their business. In the end, however, all soapmakers can benefit

from masterbatching! Really, I promise.

HOW CAN MASTERBATCHING HELP THE HOBBYIST?

For the hobbyist, time spent soapmaking is sometimes limited and masterbatching can save

those precious minutes and hours. Instead of spending 15 minutes or an hour weighing and mea-

suring various soaping oils and waiting for lye solution to cool, a hobbyist who masterbatches

can snag a bucket of oils and go! This is especially great when you have just enough time to bust

out a batch of soap or when inspiration strikes.

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EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING INTRODUCTION

Another benefit for the hobbyist is the ease and ability to use premade batches to experiment

with. Testing colorants and fragrances become a lot less daunting when a good portion of the

prep work is already done!

I’M NOT A HOBBYIST, WHAT’S IN IT FOR ME?

Even with the time savings illustrated for a hob-

byist soapmaker, the benefits for masterbatching

as a business are infinitely greater. Larger batches

of soap lower the impact of marginal weight dis-

crepancies, which in turn allow for more consistent

quality.

Soapmaking oils weighed out for five gallons (rath-

er than, say, five pounds) and then split for individual batches allows for greater consistency

from batch to batch. If the total weight of oils is off by an ounce in a masterbatch, there will be

little evidence in the final product versus when it is off in a per batch ratio.

That being said, the main benefit for soapmakers in business (in my opinion) is the cost savings.

Using bulk ingredients automatically grants the soapmaker a lower cost on ingredients and

materials. It is always cheaper to buy fifty pounds of coconut oil than it is to buy one pound or to

buy a pallet of olive oil versus a gallon.

Plus, the business will see a higher return on investment due to time savings. Less time spent

producing product (while producing more soap) means less time spent, lower labor costs on pro-

duction, and more time to spend on other aspects – like marketing and sales! (Oh, joy, right?)

SO YOU WANT TO GIVE MASTERBATCHING A GO?Well, of course you do, or else you wouldn’t be reading this, right!?

Let’s talk about what I call the “prerequisites to masterbatching.” In other words, what you really

should have in your soapmaking knowledge arsenal before you get down to business.

HOT TIP ALERTThe more time you spend making is less time selling, which means less money in your pocket.

Masterbatching allows you to invest your time in what really puts the money in your pocket: selling your soap.

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First and foremost, you will want a base formula to work with. For a hobbyist, this might be a

tried and true soap formula that they turn to. For a

business owner, this is likely to be the main formula

used for an entire line of soaps.

(Even with a couple formulas, masterbatching is

possible as long as they are properly labeled and

kept separately.)

Next, a thorough understanding of the formula’s

performance is absolutely vital to success in mas-

terbatching. Knowing what processes are required

for smooth sailing (temperatures, method of soap-

making process, speed of trace, etc.)

Without understanding how a formula will perform, masterbatching and scaling batch size can

still be successful, but there may be some significant losses beforehand. As batch sizes increase,

it’s important to remember that formulas can behave differently – a formula that was easy to

soap at 110° F may no longer be as easy, or it could be easier!

Last, but certainly not least, the soapmaker absolutely must know how to troubleshoot problem

soap. Without knowing how to identify problems or how to fix them, ingredient losses and other

problems can be devastating – working with a larger amount of ingredients at one time puts all

of those ingredients at risk.

For instance, if a masterbatch of oils is created and an oil is missed or left out, all soaps created

from that batch will likely result in either lye heavy soap or a much lower than expected superfat.

Knowing how to identify when there are less soaping oils in your pot than there should be, or

even knowing how to fix all those batches in the end is vital to saving the ingredients.

Have safeguards in place to prevent problems (an accurate scale, checklists, etc.) And know how

to fix any problems that arise. Both of these factors are extremely important to successful mas-

HOT TIP ALERTI always recommend that the first batch size increase is soaped with a reliable fragrance (or none at all), with caution – no water discounts or extra additives that can accelerate trace, etc

This will allow a soapmaker to check their formula for any indicators of changes in performance with the increase of mass.

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terbatching, so ask yourself:

• If you skip a particular oil in your masterbatch, do you know how to identify that there

is an oil missing and calculate which oil it is or how much of it is missing?

• If you miscalculate your oils, do you know how to catch it as soon as possible and fix

it?

• If your math is wrong, do you know how to find out where and how to fix it?

• If your soap is lye heavy, do you know how to identify why and know how to rebatch it?

Most soapmakers have learned how to calculate and recalculate their soap formulas early on in

their soapmaking “careers” and to me, is the most important of base foundation and knowledge.

Understanding the process and the math involved makes fixing problems all soapmakers run

into much easier!

With the plethora of online resources in regards to the science and math behind soapmaking,

if you aren’t at this point yet, it’s easy to get there – lye calculators, SAP tables, and more are at

your fingertips. Check out the resources section in the back of this eBook to find links galore to

all of these fab things.

As for actual physical supplies needed, we’ll cover that soon. Before we get there, I want to talk

about limitations. Oh, yes, most soapmakers encounter limitations when scaling or masterbatch-

ing soapmaking and I’m not going to leave you in the dark!

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THE THREE LIMITATIONSAlmost all of the limitations a soapmaker will encounter when masterbatching oils and/or lye

solution or scaling production can be categorized into three groups: formula limitations, design

limitations, and physical limitations.

When starting with a familiar formula, the soapmaker will already know how it performs and

what factors need to be considered. Factors to evaluate include the formula’s speed of trace,

hard to soft oil ratios, melt points, propensity to false trace, mandatory cure period, lye solution

strength or water discounts, the processes the formula is capable of being made by (CP, CPOP,

RTCP, TTCP, etc.) Each of these factors can affect the success of masterbatching or can provide

hurdles for the soapmaker who wants to start masterbatching.

The next formula limitation that tends to become an issue, especially when scaling instead of

just masterbatching, is the end product design. Intricate and complex designs can be complicat-

ed to scale beyond a particular batch size.

Additionally, the shape of the final bar can limit the soapmaker to particular mold types. For in-

stance, textured tops are limited to larger built slab and loaf molds, where the soap remains in a

horizontal orientation, while straight-cut bars can be produced in a block mold.

The most difficult limitation to address can be the physical limitation, which can include the

soapmaking space/room as well as the physical capacity of the soapmaker or the actual equip-

ment available.

Let’s look at each limitation individually so you can identify where you will run into issues and

have an idea of how you can conquer them in your quest for increasing scale or masterbatching.

FORMULA LIMITATIONS PERFORMANCE & COMPOSITION

Due to the ability of the soapmaker to concoct their own formula, and processes, there are a vast

number of limitations that can be encountered with masterbatching soapmaking oils for a spe-

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EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING THE THREE LIMITATIONS

cific formula.

Without details about each and every formula a soapmaker may be working with, it’s impossi-

ble to know what issues can arise. However, I can detail the most common limitations and your

knowledge of your specific formula can guide you.

First and foremost, your masterbatching will be limited by the shelf life of the oils involved. If you

have delicate oils in your formula, you’ll want to exclude them from the batch to avoid compro-

mising the entire batch of oils or meet those needs for handling the entire batch of oils.

Checking the shelf life and storage needs of each oil will guide you as to what needs your

batched oils will need, always go by the shortest shelf life and most delicate storage needs of an

oil in a formula for the entire batch.

It is entirely possible to masterbatch all of the other oils in the formula, and then add the deli-

cate oil later, so keep that in mind!

Many formula limitations are due to the specific formula itself, compromising of the formula’s

needs and requirements during the soapmaking process. Evaluating a formula’s hard to soft oil

ratio, fatty acid profiles, melt points, and necessary heat requirements will give a solid founda-

tion to knowing where the limitations can lie.

For instance, a formula high in hard oils is likely to have an overall higher melt point and require

external heat. A formula high in stearic acid, for example, could produce stearic spots in the final

bar of soap without enough heat during the soapmaking process. While not a functional prob-

lem, it is a cosmetic and aesthetic issue that a soapmaker may want to address.

Another consideration is avoiding fractionation during masterbatching. If temperatures are kept

too low, the soapmaking oils can fractionate or separate, allowing fatty acids to settle out to the

bottom of the masterbatch or crystallize within the masterbatch. Researching the specific melt

point and handling of each oil in the formula will help to avoid any issues.

Heat requirements are also a huge priority to address. If a formula is semi-solid or solid at room

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temperature and has been masterbatched into a large bucket, will it fractionate or can it be

scooped out? Is it so solid that heat will be required to melt it?

These aspects can influence the method in which masterbatching is implemented – by using a

drum heater, a water jacketed heater, or another

external heat source to bring the soaping oils to the

proper temperature.

Formula limitations can also come in the form of

how a formula scales due to water content. High

water discounts can affect a formula’s performance

in larger batches, making a larger amount of raw

soap more difficult to handle. However, the ab-

sence of a water discount can increase the time

needed for a larger batch to trace.

I recommend up to a 45% strength lye solution when masterbatching. Using a higher strength

solution may allow lye to crystallize in the final solution or affect the carrier liquid’s ability to dis-

solve the added lye (usually, water, but also milks, juices, etc.) A good rule of thumb is to master-

batch in a 50% or weaker solution strength.

Another consideration is also the needed cure time by a formula and how much time it needs to

saponify before removing from the mold. Without a water discount, a larger batch of soap will

usually take much longer to complete saponifica-

tion, which in turn can mean molds are occupied

with raw soap longer than usual.

Finding the synergy between water discounts, cur-

ing time, and mold usage is another factor in plan-

ning how to batch your ingredients for soapmaking.

One of the final limitations found in formulas is the

HOT TIP ALERTDon’t forget to consider the humid-ity of your environment! Humidity lengthens the time for soap to setup and de-mold, as well as cure!

Invest in a dehumidifier for your soap space if you live in a humid climate.

HOT TIP ALERTIt was a commonly held belief that silk would not dissolve in room tem-perature lye solution, however, this is not true!

The heat of a fresh lye solution works as a catalyst to help dissolve the silk, but the lye solution will dissolve silk at room temperature over time (roughly 12 to 24 hours.)

PAGE 9


manageability and how it reacts to outside factors. If a formula is normally quick to trace, it will

remain so. If you have difficulty getting a smaller batch of a particular soap into the mold in time

before it sets up, the problem will remain with larger batches. Evaluate your formula’s speed of

trace and tendency to accelerate, as well as any components that may affect it (such as fragranc-

es or additives.)

DESIGN LIMITATIONS DESIGN TECHNIQUES & AESTHETICS

Unlike formula limitations, design limitations are easier to overcome depending on the soap-

makers need to include various design techniques. Intricate and complex coloring techniques

are limited to smaller batch sizes due to the amount of time needed; however, this doesn’t limit

a hobbyist from masterbatching for smaller batches.

For production soapmaking, however, coloring techniques like funnel pours or column pours

provide an interesting hurdle. For this reason, I recommend sticking to less intricate designs such

as in the pot or in the mold swirls, layers, and embeds for larger batch soapmaking. Completing

a pour on a funnel, faux funnel, column, striped, or otherwise in depth technique can take much

too long when using batch sizes over twenty pounds.

Another factor in design limitations is the final design of the bar shape and size. Textured tops

are limited to horizontal mold setups like larger slabs or loaf molds, while soap with perfectly

straight sides can easily be moved to block molds for production techniques due to the ability to

cut any face of the soap block for the final loaves and bars.

Specialty additives can limit the effectiveness of masterbatching. Any additive that is usually

infused in the oil or dissolved in the lye solution can create a challenge. However, these are also

able to be overcome!

If an oil infusion is often used in various soaps, a soapmaker can omit the infusion oil (for exam-

ple, olive oil), from their batched soapmaking oils and add it during the soapmaking session. The

important thing is to remember to add it!

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Common additives in the lye solution, such as silk, can also be added to the batched lye solution

if used in all batches, or they can be added to room temperature lye solution later.

If you are unsure if this will work for you, make a small batch of lye solution and let it cool to test

your additive.

If each batch requires a special additive of some kind, a soapmaker can choose to overcome that

limitation by constructing their masterbatching plan around it to tailor their needs.

On the other hand, you should evaluate whether masterbatching oils and/or lye solution will

save time if so many extra steps are necessary.

PHYSICAL LIMITATIONS SPACE, EQUIPMENT, STORAGE

Similar to formula limitations, physical limitations are extremely common, yet may not be as

easy to overcome.

The first major limitation that I want to address is that of the physical limitations of the soap-

maker. Each of us has to put our own well-being first and foremost, and ensuring that you are

not jeopardizing your most important asset (your well-being!) is priority.

Calculate what amount of heavy lifting you are capable and comfortable with, and remain within

those limitations for your own safety. Devising additional equipment to overcome this hurdle is

entirely possible by using lifts and pot tippers, and the like.

Second on the list of physical limitations is the actual space that your soapmaking is primarily

occurring. Some soapmakers make soap in their kitchen or a spare bedroom, for instance, while

others have a dedicated space. Consider all the features of the space you use and what problems

you might run into.

For instance, do you have an external heat source like a microwave or stove-top/oven at your

disposal if you need one?

When considering your space, keep in mind that masterbatching soaping oils and/or lye solution

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takes up plenty of space! Think about your limitations for bulk ingredient storage, batched oil/

solution storage, curing space, packaging and equipment. Determine if you can allocate more

space to storage elsewhere.

Remember to take into account the environment of an additional storage space, all ingredients,

including batched oils or lye solutions, as well as curing soap, need specific storage environ-

ments based on their stability and needs. Consult the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) from

your supplier for your ingredients to determine what those needs are.

Another factor that absolutely requires a soapmakers attention is the safety of the soapmaking

space. I will not ever recommend a soapmaker who works or stores their ingredients in a space

accessible by children, pets, or adults unfamiliar to the soapmaking process starts masterbatch-

ing, especially lye solution.

Masterbatching oils also requires this thought, as small children or pets could spill, drink, or fall

into large amounts of liquid, but lye solution itself is a dangerous caustic material, that can have

dire and even fatal consequences when an unsuspecting party has access to it.

Necessary precautions need to be in place, including proper handling, labeling, and storage

practices, for EVERY soapmaker – not just those who soap in a space with multiple purposes.

Finally, physical limitations can be found in the equipment needed. Startup funds for master-

batching can be extremely cost effective by using equipment you already have or can be pur-

chased inexpensively. Larger scale production can always be done on the cheap, but better

equipment will often be more reliable and durable. A bulk of equipment costs can be focused,

first, on molds, cutters, curing racks, and then focused on tanks or heaters for scaled production.

For example, a standardized and consistent bar size is limited only by the molds and cutting

tools available. Simple wood molds built from cheap lumber and log splitters built from wood

and wire can be created by the handy soapmaker (or a helpful friend!) Or instead of purchasing a

heating tank, masterbatching in a recycled seven gallon bucket and either heated for soapmak-

ing or redistributed into proper batch size buckets for storage is a much cheaper option.

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GETTING READY TO MASTERBATCHAfter considering each limitation you might encounter, work out the details. Create a plan of

action. Don’t just figure it out in your head; sit down with a piece of paper and pen and go step

by step in your soapmaking process! Write down any problem spots and determine how to work

around them.

Once you have worked out your limitations, you will start by getting acquainted with the process.

First and foremost, let’s deal with resizing our formula for masterbatching.

RESIZING YOUR FORMULA FOR BATCHINGDetermine what size of masterbatch you are comfortable with, and resize your formula using a

lye calculator or Soapmaker software to fit inside the container. Keep in mind that your oil batch

and lye solution batches will not be combined, so you are looking at your total oil weight and

your total lye solution weight. Also, remember that you are resizing by weight whereas contain-

ers are often measured by volume, allow plenty of excess space for volume requirements.

In the following example, we’re going to use what I refer to as the Holy Trinity formula, sized for a

5 pound batch. Here is our base formula using SoapCalc.Net’s lye calculator:

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EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING ALL ABOUT MASTERBATCHING

We’re going to resize this formula for masterbatching the oils in a 50 lb. bucket, recycling a 50 lb.

bucket used for coconut oil from Soaper’s Choice. A 50 lb. bucket is roughly a 7 gallon bucket, if

you would like to purchase one new. This gives us enough room for volume and weight discrep-

ancies, as well as making it possible to completely stir our batched oils.

Ironically, resizing this formula to this size also makes it possible to use a 3.5 gallon bucket for

our lye solution. Going from five pounds to fifty pounds, we would multiple our batch by ten.

However, resizing using a lye calculator is just as easy:

To make an easy comparison from batch to batch, here is a table demonstrating how each ingre-

dient was resized in ounces from a 5 lb. batch to a 50 lb. batch:

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SAMPLE FORMULA 5 LB BATCH (80 OZ. OILS)

50 LB. BATCH (800 OZ. OILS)

Olive Oil (50%) 40 oz. 400 oz.

Coconut Oil (25%) 20 oz. 200 oz.

Palm Oil (25%) 20 oz. 200 oz.

Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) 11.32 oz. 113.2 oz.

Distilled Water (33% Solution) 22.99 oz. 229.9 oz.

You’ll notice that our formula has not changed! All of our qualities and fatty acid contents are

exactly the same, the formula is simply resized.

MASTERBATCHING OILS 101Now, let’s lay out our masterbatching plan. There are multiple ways to batch oils and lye solu-

tion, and all of them rely on overcoming what limitations you personally have in play. A big focus

here will be equipment available and funding, as we go over some different ideas for how to set

up for masterbatching. I

I’m going to focus on oil masterbatching first, as that is the most common form of masterbatch-

ing.

A 50 LB. BUCKET FITTED WITH A SPIGOT & BUCKET WARMER

This setup belongs to Amy Warden of Great Cakes Soapworks.

She re-used a 50 lb. coconut pail, had her husband fit a spigot

towards the bottom of the bucket, and keeps a bucket warmer

on the bucket.

The benefits to this setup are that oils are not poured from the

bucket. A big thing to consider in the bucket warming wrap

setups is that if you are planning on pouring your oils from the

bucket, the bucket itself needs to stay clean. Heat from the

wrap mixed with residual oils on the outside of the bucket is

bad news all around and could start a fire.

Amy is able to switch on the bucket warmer prior to soaping to heat her oils, weigh what she

needs directly from the spigot into her soaping container, and soap away.

When she is done making soap for the day, she can turn off the bucket warmer which prevents

the oils from being exposed to any prolonged heat (which can rapidly increase how quickly the

oils go rancid.)

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For more information about her setup, including links to the parts she used and how she uses it,

you can visit her blog here: http://www.greatcakessoapworks.com/handmade-soap-blog/index.

php/master-batching-soap-oils/

MASTERBATCHING IN A 50 LB. BUCKET AND WEIGHING OFF

If you don’t have a bucket warmer and do not want to invest in building a setup like Amy’s, it’s

still possible to batch!

Using a 50 lb. bucket to mix a masterbatch and then weighing it off into individual buckets or

containers for soapmaking is just as easy. You will still be saving time versus weighing each buck-

et or container of soaping oils individually by weighing

them all once, and then weighing a batch worth of oils

per bucket.

With this setup, making soap is as easy as grabbing

a container of prebatched oils, warming it in the mi-

crowave or in a stainless steel pot on the stove-top, if

necessary, and then soaping away.

If you use a microwave to warm your oils, you want to

remember that low gentle heat is the best practice –

do not use your microwave at full power and always

use short bursts.

This is how I personally masterbatched my oils for over two years. As I worked through produc-

tion, I placed buckets of oils in the microwave as needed, melted them on 50% power for 1 min-

ute bursts until the oils were melted.

Alternatively, this method of masterbatching is also ideal for thermal transfer soaping. Instead of

melting the oils via an external heat source, thermal transfer soaping dictates making fresh lye

solution and using the thermal reaction of the lye and water to melt the oils.

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http://www.greatcakessoapworks.com/handmade-soap-blog/index.php/master-batching-soap-oils/

http://www.greatcakessoapworks.com/handmade-soap-blog/index.php/master-batching-soap-oils/

I used five quart plastic paint buckets from a local home improvement store that have lids, as

they fit inside my microwave. Each one has a metal handle that I removed from the bucket so

that they could be microwaved. (And I use the handle part for hanger swirling! No waste, folks!) I

also used 3.5 and 5 gallon buckets with lids (they do not fit in the microwave, though!)

A note on thermal transfer soaping: since you have already melted and masterbatched your oils

together, your oil masterbatch will resemble a mixed slurry. Once your lye has dissolved in your

distilled water (or other liquid), you would pour the lye solution onto the oils and either let it rest

to melt, or get to work and soap away.

What method will work best for you depends on your formula – try it with a small batch and see

what happens.

PROFESSIONAL SETUP WITH WATER JACKETED TANKS

While you can choose a much more cost effective route by choos-

ing materials you either have on hand or can purchase cheaply,

the best way to go big is to buy professional equipment.

Better equipment is going to be more durable and more reliable.

With either Amy or I’s set up, we may be replacing buckets or the

warmer or the spigot over time. However, equipment built for large scaling soapmaking is going

to last years.

Companies like Willow Way (SoapEquipment.com) or SoapMelters.com (Melting And Filling

Equipment, Inc.) have a large assortment of water jacketed tanks, heaters, pot tippers, and

more.

You can also look at restaurant supply warehouses, beekeeping supply, brewery supply shops,

and more. Get creative!

CREATING YOUR OWN SETUP

The nice thing about masterbatching is that you can easily custom tailor your solution to your

PAGE 17


needs, be innovative and creative – think outside the box!

Remember when you first started making soap, and EVERYTHING was a mold? Get that thinking

cap back on, and look at what you can use to accomplish your own setup.

A bulk of equipment costs can be focused on molds, cutters, bar slicers, curing racks, and then

focused later on tanks and heaters. For me, I decided to invest in equipment for finishing my

soap before I invested in tanks/heaters/etc. I was still able to make large amounts of soap at one

time this way, but I saved time cutting, slicing, and curing soap by having spent money there

first.

Weigh your pros and cons to find out what the most cost effective or time efficient path for you

will be. If you are cutting finished bars by hand with a knife, chances are a multi-bar cutter of

sorts is going to be higher on your priority list. If you have a lot of the equipment for finishing

soap already, investing in equipment for masterbatching makes sense.

Once you’ve determined what kind of setup you’ll be using and have resized your formula, you

have one last step before you begin: laying out your procedures for masterbatching.

BASIC PROCEDURES OF OIL MASTERBATCHING

Making a masterbatch of oils is just as easy as measuring and weighing a single batch of oils for

normal soapmaking, just on a larger scale!

Start by cleaning your workspace thoroughly and collecting all of your oils, containers, and uten-

sils. Print out your masterbatch formula and grab a pen. Keep in

mind your scale’s limitations and your heat requirements. If you

have a scale that can only weigh ten pounds, you will have to limit

yourself to weighing ten pounds at a time.

Weigh each individual portion of oil for your batch formula and

add it to your masterbatch container (for example, a 50 lb. buck-

et).

PAGE 18


If your oil is solid at room temperature, you will want to melt it to incorporate into your batch.

If any oil has a short shelf life or low heat requirement, you may leave it out of your batch and

add it individually at the time of soapmaking.

Also, if you use part of your formula or particular oil for botanical infusions (for example, olive

oil) you may choose to leave that out of your batch. Keep in mind that you can also make a larger

batch of infused oil to make that step a breeze, too!

As you weigh each portion of oil and add it to your masterbatch,

check it off on your formula sheet so you know exactly where you

are in the process. If you are storing your masterbatch in the 50 lb.

bucket, let the oils cool and then seal the bucket.

If you do not let the oil cool before sealing it, you risk condensa-

tion from the air inside the bucket collecting on the inside lid and

contaminating your oils. Also, you will want to make sure to use a

gasket seal lid or a gamma seal lid to keep the oil integrity intact.

If you are pouring your oils off into individual buckets for soapmaking, stir your masterbatch

thoroughly to ensure all of the oils are well mixed and none of the fatty acids have settled out.

Carefully weigh and pour off your needed oils into individual containers. Again, only apply lids to

your containers when the oils have cooled.

When you are ready to soap, you will be able to either turn on your bucket warmer or water

jacketed heater tank, stir the batch thoroughly, and weigh what you need for each batch. If you

already weighed each batch individually, you can grab a premixed container of oils, apply heat, if

necessary, and get to work.

Regardless of how you choose to store your masterbatched oils, you will want to assign a batch

number to each masterbatch you create. This batch number should be associated with the lot

numbers of each oil contained in the batch, as well as information such as when the masterbatch

was made, when it should be used by, etc.

PAGE 19


Label your masterbatched oils with the batch number, date, and weight, as well as any other

information that pertains to your needs.

WHAT IF THERE IS A SPILL?

You should already have a plan of action in place for spills, however, if you do not – do it now!

When working with larger quantities of ingredients, the risk of larger spills is at hand. (This is

coming from someone who has cleaned up 35 pounds of castor oil off their workshop floor!) Be

prepared and know how to handle a spill.

Purchase 20 lb. or 40 lb. bags of baking soda and cat litter and keep them on hand at all times.

Use cat litter to absorb carrier oils, and baking soda for fragrance or essential oils. If there is a

spill, liberally pour the absorption material (baking soda or cat litter) onto the spill. Once the ma-

terial has absorbed the spill, sweep it up, and repeat. Lastly, you will want to make sure to clean

the affected area for any remaining residue or debris.

There are also products on the market specifically made to clean

up these kinds of spills. U-Line carries a wide variety of products

for this purpose, and it’s absolutely worth looking into.

Here is a direct link to their sorbent and spill product category,

notice that they carry kits and clean up materials for oils like car-

rier oils, as well as hazardous spills, like lye solution or essential

oils: http://www.uline.com/Grp_211/Sorbents-and-Spill-Control

Even if you have a plan in place, make sure to write it out step by step and have it posted in a visi-

ble place in your soapmaking area. You never know what might happen, whether or not you will

be present to clean up the spill, or if you might be injured and unable to clean it up.

When I had my first spill in my workshop in 2010, I am ashamed to admit that I did not have clean

up procedures in place. It was a sixteen ounce bottle of peppermint essential oil.

I came across this blog post by Nature’s Gift (an aromatherapy supplier) and it has proven in-

PAGE 20


http://www.uline.com/Grp_211/Sorbents-and-Spill-Control

valuable to me. If you have any doubts about putting a cleanup plan in place or having pro-

cedures lined out for spills, please give this a read: http://naturesgiftaromatherapy.blogspot.

com/2010/08/explosion-or-what-msds-doesnt-tell-you.html

TIPS FOR OIL MASTERBATCHING

• Weigh all of your containers that you may use in masterbatching and record their

weights. If your scale dies, if you spill oils, or various other mishaps, you can determine

how much oil is in any container by taring your scale, weighing the container, and sub-

tracting the container’s weight.

• Don’t stop there! Weigh your molds, too. Create a system of checks and balances for

yourself – if something goes wonky in your soapmaking, you can weigh the mold full

of soap, and determine if the weight of the oils, lye solution, and mold add up to the

proper amount for the formula.

• Create a list of each mold you use in your production and the total weight of oils need-

ed for the mold’s usage and keep it handy.

• If you use Soapmaker software, adjust your formulas. Save your old formulas – do not

overwrite them! Create a new base oil named “Holy Trinity Masterbatch” (or whatever

is appropriate for you) and create new batch formulas for your molds using the “Holy

Trinity Masterbatch” for the total weight of oils instead of the individual oils. This way,

you can list any additional oils without getting them confused with oils already in your

masterbatch.

MASTERBATCHING LYE SOLUTION 101The very first thing I want to touch on about masterbatching lye solution is that it is not for ev-

eryone. It might be a time saver for me, but there are many factors involved in making the deci-

sion to batch lye solution.

Safety is always your number one priority when it comes to lye solution and masterbatching is

PAGE 21


http://naturesgiftaromatherapy.blogspot.com/2010/08/explosion-or-what-msds-doesnt-tell-you.html

http://naturesgiftaromatherapy.blogspot.com/2010/08/explosion-or-what-msds-doesnt-tell-you.html

absolutely no exception. You need to consider children, pets, visitors, and family members as

well as yourself. While a 50 lb. bucket of soaping oils sitting around the house can be a danger,

a 50 lb. bucket of lye solution can be a fatal accident waiting to happen. I will never recommend

masterbatching lye solution to someone that does not have a dedicated soapmaking space.

You must have the proper safety equipment, storage containers, and storage abilities to keep lye

solution under lock and key. Anyone who has access to your soapmaking space needs to know

how caustic and dangerous lye solution can be, how to properly handle it, how to clean a spill,

and what to do if they come in contact with it.

My intent here is not to scare anyone from doing so, but to ensure that if you are considering

masterbatching lye solution that you fully understand the dangers and implications of keeping a

large amount of hazardous material on hand.

LYE SOLUTION SAFETY

One common mistake I see among soapmakers is using glass, especially Pyrex, for their lye solu-

tion. Glass is extremely dangerous, as sodium hydroxide can and will etch the glass at a molecu-

lar level and weaken it. These small fractures in the glass’s integrity can cause it to break, shatter,

or even explode.

I recommend using high quality high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or polypropylene (PP) con-

tainers for both mixing and storing lye solution. Ensure that the container is either seamless or

that the seams are not weak. Consult a chemical resistance reference chart from a lab safety

company. Many charts list sodium hydroxide at various concentrations; try to find one that lists

sodium hydroxide at 40 to 50% concentrations as this will be on the safe side for any lye solution

concentration you may be using for soapmaking.

An example chart from National Scientific can be found by following this link, and the relevant

sections of this chart are published on the following page: http://www.nationalscientific.com/

support/pdf/NS-ChemicalResistanceReferenceCharts.pdf

PAGE 22


http://www.nationalscientific.com/support/pdf/NS-ChemicalResistanceReferenceCharts.pdf

http://www.nationalscientific.com/support/pdf/NS-ChemicalResistanceReferenceCharts.pdf

Make sure you are using proper safety equipment as well.

For example, everyday store bought vinyl or latex gloves are neither

strong enough nor chemical resistant to lye solution. I have specifi-

cally purchased several sets of gloves that are made of thick nitrile

and rated for use with caustic chemicals, like sodium hydroxide.

Goggles that protect your eyes completely from all angles and a res-

pirator are both recommended.

LYE SOLUTION MASTERBATCHING AND STORAGE

Since we’ve already resized our formula, we know how much sodium hydroxide and distilled wa-

ter we need to make a masterbatch of lye solution for our formula.

To start with, I always use ½ to ¾ of my distilled water as ice. So, the morning of my master-

batching day, I freeze the necessary amount of distilled water that I will need for my lye solution

batch. Using ice keeps the lye solution’s overall temperature lower. Frozen distilled water weighs

exactly the same as it does at room temperature in it’s liquid state.

Just like oil masterbatching, lye solution masterbatching is the same procedure for a single

batch versus a large masterbatch.

• Measure both your distilled water (with ice, if you are using it) and your lye.

• Pour your lye slowly into your distilled water, and stir until the solution clears.

• Wait to store your lye solution until it cools to avoid condensation.

I recommend using an outer container to contain both your lye and your water containers, on a

small scale, this is usually a sink. For me, I use a large cat litter pan made from HDPE. This is to

ensure you can contain any spills, leaks, or breakage, even if momentarily.

Clearly mark your lye solution in an appropriate chemical resistant container. Store your lye

solution in air tight container to avoid water evaporation. Store the lye solution away from acids

PAGE 24


and on a lower shelf inside a chemical-resistant tray or corrosives cabinet, ideally, under lock

and key.

Do not store lye solution up high!! If the container leaks, the lye solution will trickle down on to

anything below it. Additionally, storing the lye solution on a low shelf is an extra step of safety – if

you store it somewhere elevated, and slip or drop the lye solution container trying to get it down,

it spells extreme danger.

As stated previously about oil masterbatching, have emergency procedures and plans in place in

case of a spill.

Another common misconception by soapmakers that I have noticed is using vinegar to neutralize

lye, especially if spilled on the skin. Please read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for sodium

hydroxide from your supplier. It will not say to douse your skin with vinegar in case of a spill, it

will tell you to flush with WATER for at least 15 minutes.

Pouring vinegar on your skin can cause a bigger problem by creating a further chemical reaction,

your number one priority is to dilute and remove as much of the chemical from your skin as soon

as possible!!

If your supplier does not have an MSDS (find a new supplier, please – you should have MSDS

available for all ingredients from your suppliers!), here is one for a 50% solution from Science

Lab: http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924999

TIPS FOR LYE MASTERBATCHING

• Remember that the amount of lye needed for each formula varies due to the formula’s

oils and their SAP values. So, while you can masterbatch five gallons of 40% lye solu-

tion, one formula may use more or less of that solution than another.

• The weight of your lye and the weight of your water are the same weight as the two

combined. Water and ice weigh the same. Just like for masterbatching oils, weigh all of

your containers and record their weights.

PAGE 25


http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924999

• Always minimize exposure to open air to discourage water evaporation in a dry cli-

mate, which strengthens your solution over time. If you live in a humid environment,

lye’s hygroscopic nature will actually draw water from the air into your solution. Either

way, keeping your lye solution in air tight storage with minimal exposure to open air

will keep the proper solution strength.

• It is entirely normal for a very small amount of water to evaporate when masterbatch-

ing lye solution. This is usually minimal and does not significantly affect the total

solution. This is part of the reason I use ice when masterbatching and why the solution

absolutely must be stored in an air tight container.

• Sodium carbonate can often be found when masterbatching lye solution; it appears

as a white powdery substance on the surface of lye solution. It is absolutely harmless

and does not mean the lye solution has gone bad somehow. Carbon dioxide in the

air reacts to sodium hydroxide, and creates sodium carbonate on the surface. This is

another reason to keep your lye solution in an air tight container. Sodium carbonate is

less alkaline than sodium hydroxide but nothing to worry about and will not affect the

final soap.

• Lye grit or chunks at the bottom of the container, on the other hand, are not okay! Any

grit or chunks at the bottom of a container is sodium hydroxide that did not dissolve

into the solution. Dispose of it and start over, lye is cheap!

MASTERBATCHING A LYE SOLUTION & DILUTING IT FOR SOAPING

I often masterbatch a 40 to 50% lye solution, but do not always soap with one. Since you can add

more water to weaken a concentrated lye solution, there is no need to make multiple different

strengths of lye solution.

If you soap with a 40% lye solution on a regular basis, but need to use a 33% solution for a floral

fragrance or milk soap, you can use your 40% masterbatched solution and dilute it to 33% solu-

tion. You can do this by calculating a 40% solution and 33% solution individually, and then sub-

PAGE 26


tracting your water amounts to find the needed water for that batch. The table below illustrates

the multiplication factors for lye solution strength.

LYE WEIGHT x WATER = LYE SOLUTION STRENGTHWeight of Lye 1.5 40%

Weight of Lye 1.6 38%


Weight of Lye 1.8 35.7%

Weight of Lye 1.9 34.5%




Let’s run through a small example of creating a 40% solution, and finding out how much water

we need to dilute it to a 33% solution.

If the Weight of Lye x 1.5 = 40% solution and you need 11 ounces of lye to saponify your oils:

11 oz. lye x 1.5 = 16.5 ounces of water

11 oz. lye + 16.5 oz. water = 27.5 ounces of 40% lye solution

If the Weight of Lye x 2.0 = 33% solution and you still need 11 ounces of lye to saponify your oils:

11 oz. lye x 2.0 = 22 ounces of water

11 ox lye + 22 ounces water = 33 ounces of 33% lye solution

So, to weaken our 40% lye solution to a 33% lye solution, we need to calculate the difference in

water:

22 oz. of water in the 33% solution – 16.5 oz. of water in the 40% solution =

5.5 oz. of additional water needed.

PAGE 27


If you aren’t crazy about the math or want to double check it, create two formulas on a lye calcu-

lator or in Soapmaker. Using the same oils and weights, create one formula with a 33% lye solu-

tion and one with a 40% lye solution, and then subtract the water amounts to find how much

additional water is needed to weaken the solution.

USING YOUR MASTERBATCHED OILS & LYE SOLUTIONGetting ready for soapmaking when you’ve masterbatched your oils and lye solution couldn’t

be easier. Simply plan out your batches, and collect your additives, colorants, and fragrances as

normal. Instead of having to go through the lengthy process of weighing your oils and making

your lye solution, you have them already ready and waiting!

If you’ve masterbatched your oils and NOT pre-weighed them into individual containers, weigh

the total amount of oils you need for your batch. Depending on how you’ve masterbatched your

oils, you may need to melt them and stir them thoroughly before you draw off the amount you

need.

If you have pre-weighed your oils, it’s as simple as grab-n-go for your total oils.

To use your masterbatched lye solution, stir the solution and then weigh the total amount of

solution needed for your batch. Remember that this is the total of your lye and water amounts

together.

Do not ever reheat your lye solution. Applying heat to a premade lye solution is dangerous and

can cause a reaction or explosion.

If you need to dilute your lye solution, you will need to do that now. It is entirely normally for a

premade lye solution to heat up minimally if additional water is needed.

PAGE 28


BRANCHING OUT YOUR MASTERBATCHINGMasterbatching doesn’t have to stop at your oils and your lye solution! The more ingredients you

can have premixed and ready to go, the better.

Consider masterbatching any essential oil and/or fragrance oil blends you use regularly.

• Use amber glass with cone lined phenolic caps or amber PET bottles with lined caps.

• Resize your blend for the container (keep in mind weight vs. volume!), and label prop-

erly.

• Assign a batch number to the premix with a record of the information necessary, for

example, the supplier, lot number, and received date of the oils contained in the blend,

what ratios were used, and the date it was made.

Look to masterbatching your colorants and additives, too! You can start simple by premixing col-

orants like mica with oil or glycerin. Or you can premix colorant blends and additives, too.

For example, a soap I used to make contained calendula petals and chamomile extract, so I had

several containers of them premixed and weighed for single batches. When I made a batch of

soap, I could snag a premade container and pour it in.

Here is a quick chart to use as a guideline for what to premix colorants with:

COLORANT MIX WITH...Micas Oil or Glycerin (I prefer oil)

Oxides Oil

Ultramarines Glycerin

FD&C Lakes Glycerin

Titanium Dioxide Oil or Glycerin (Depends on the supplier)

PAGE 29

EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING BRANCHING OUT

A good rule of thumb is using 1 part colorant to 2 parts dispersing liquid (for example, 1 tsp. of

mica in 2 tsp. of oil); however, you can go higher on your dispersing liquid depending on your

needs. Experiment!

Using glycerin instead of water is ideal, as you will not need a preservative. A great oil for premix-

ing colorants is castor oil, as it is extremely thick and keeps colorants relatively suspended.

You will always want to stir or shake premixed colorants prior to using, and keep in mind that

whatever you use to premix colorants needs to be on your final product label in the ingredients.

PAGE 30

EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING BRANCHING OUT

SUPPLIERS & RESOURCE LINKS

There have been several mentions of equipment, tools, and supplies throughout this eBook.

Here is a list of suppliers and other useful links I recommend:

LYE CALCULATORS & SOFTWARE

• Soap Calc http://www.soapcalc.net

• Majestic Mountain Sage https://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php

• Bramble Berry http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx

• Summer Bee Meadow https://summerbeemeadow.com/

• Suds and Scents http://www.sudsandscents.com/lye_calculator.htm

• Miller Soap http://millersoap.com/worksheet.html

• Soapmaker Software http://www.soapmaker.ca/

BUCKETS & FITTINGS

• Uline http://www.uline.com

• US Plastic http://www.usplastic.com/

BUCKET WARMERS & HEATERS

• FasTool Now http://www.fastoolnow.com/

• Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/

• Duda Diesel http://www.dudadiesel.com/

PAGE 31

EFFICIENCY IN SCALING: INTRODUCTION TO MASTERBATCHING RESOURCES

http://www.soapcalc.net

https://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php

http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx

https://summerbeemeadow.com/

http://www.sudsandscents.com/lye_calculator.htm

http://millersoap.com/worksheet.html

http://www.soapmaker.ca/

http://www.uline.com

http://www.usplastic.com/

http://www.fastoolnow.com/

http://www.northerntool.com/

http://www.dudadiesel.com/

PROFESSIONAL EQUIPMENT

• Soap Equipment http://soapequipment.com/

• Soap Melters http://www.soapmelters.com/

• Dadant http://www.dadant.com/

SAFETY & LAB EQUIPMENT

• Uline http://www.uline.com/

• Science Lab http://www.sciencelab.com

• EnviroSafety Products http://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/

• Northern Safety http://www.northernsafety.com/

• USA Scientific http://www.usascientific.com

• Calpac Lab http://www.calpaclab.com

• Go Gen Lab http://www.gogenlab.com/

SOAP MOLDS & CUTTERS

• For Crafts Sake http://www.forcraftssake.com/

• Soap Equipment http://www.soapequipment.com/

• Woodfield’s http://www.woodfieldswood.com/

• SoapHutch http://www.soaphutch.com/

• Nurture Soap Supplies http://www.nurturesoapsupplies.com/

• Spirit Crafts http://www.spiritcrafts.net/woodsoapmolds.html

PAGE 32


http://soapequipment.com/

http://www.soapmelters.com/

http://www.dadant.com/

http://www.uline.com/

http://www.sciencelab.com

http://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/

http://www.northernsafety.com/

http://www.usascientific.com

http://www.calpaclab.com

http://www.gogenlab.com/

http://www.forcraftssake.com/

http://www.soapequipment.com/

http://www.woodfieldswood.com/

http://www.soaphutch.com/

http://www.nurturesoapsupplies.com/

http://www.spiritcrafts.net/woodsoapmolds.html

• Candles & Woodcrafts http://www.candlesandwoodcrafts.com/woodensoapmolds.

html

• Chestnut Farms http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/index.htm

DIY SOAP MOLDS, CUTTERS, LINERS

• Lovin Soap DIY Liners http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/05/diy-reusable-liners-bram-

ble-berry-9-bar-slab-mold/

• Addicted to Soap DIY Wood Molds http://www.addictedtosoap.blogspot.com/2012/02/

how-to-make-your-own-wooden-soap-mold.html

• Doing is Believing DIY Liners http://doingisbelieving.blogspot.com/2010/12/diy-reus-

able-liner-soap-molds.html

• Twilight Mountain Ranch DIY Soap Molds http://www.twilightmountainranch.com/diy-

soap-molds.html

• Soapmaking Forum Making Wood Molds http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f24/mak-

ing-wood-soap-mold-diy-6289/

• Chestnut Farms DIY Molds http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/info/

mold_plan.html

• The Soap Bar DIY Liners http://thesoapbar.blogspot.com/2011/02/diy-silicone-liners-

for-soap-moulds.html

VIDEOS

I love watching other soapmakers at work, how about you?

• http://www.thepowerofkc.com/clips_of_kc.htm#INDIGO%20WILD

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1-iW9rE-zU

PAGE 33


http://www.candlesandwoodcrafts.com/woodensoapmolds.html

http://www.candlesandwoodcrafts.com/woodensoapmolds.html

http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/index.htm

http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/05/diy-reusable-liners-bramble-berry-9-bar-slab-mold/

http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/05/diy-reusable-liners-bramble-berry-9-bar-slab-mold/

http://www.addictedtosoap.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-make-your-own-wooden-soap-mold.html

http://www.addictedtosoap.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-make-your-own-wooden-soap-mold.html

http://doingisbelieving.blogspot.com/2010/12/diy-reusable-liner-soap-molds.html

http://doingisbelieving.blogspot.com/2010/12/diy-reusable-liner-soap-molds.html

http://www.twilightmountainranch.com/diy-soap-molds.html

http://www.twilightmountainranch.com/diy-soap-molds.html

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f24/making-wood-soap-mold-diy-6289/

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f24/making-wood-soap-mold-diy-6289/

http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/info/mold_plan.html

http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/info/mold_plan.html

http://thesoapbar.blogspot.com/2011/02/diy-silicone-liners-for-soap-moulds.html

http://thesoapbar.blogspot.com/2011/02/diy-silicone-liners-for-soap-moulds.html

http://www.thepowerofkc.com/clips_of_kc.htm#INDIGO%20WILD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1-iW9rE-zU

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=or6sPCXZ0zw

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPMN_CrzzEM

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vl0Co3eTdLQ

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj43ql6AWCU

NOTES OF APPRECIATIONA huge thank you to:

• Amy Warden of Great Cakes Soapworks, for sharing her setup & always being a great

local soapmaker to bounce ideas off of

• Tina Howard of Majestic Mountain Sage, for being a valuable resource & hugely experi-

enced soapmaker to chat with

• Mae of SoapEquipment.com, for being such a kind person always ready to answer

questions

• Members of the Dish Forum, for being the first online community of soapers that made

me feel at home & for all of the knowledge and discussions shared

• Central Soapers Workshop 2013 Sponsors & Attendees, for supporting me in hosting

the first gathering here in the central U.S. region in many years

PAGE 34


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=or6sPCXZ0zw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPMN_CrzzEM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vl0Co3eTdLQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj43ql6AWCU

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