mitsubishi pump conversion kit

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    Mitsubishi Fuel Pump Solid State Conversion

    By:rideswestKTM

    I really wanted to do this right for OC but yet again I failed to get goodpic's. But I thought I'd post anyway -better something than nothing.

    This is a mod to perform on the 950 KTM fuel pump (other bikes too) thatshould make the pump last foreve...a long time.Parts are less than $5. The way this mod works it is IDENTICAL to stock- the difference is the points act as a trigger for the solid state switchinstead of being the switch. So stock current through the points is 6

    amps, and with this kit, it is down to around 1 miliamp.

    Need two resisters (may be really small in size) 1 megohm and one15kohm, I have also used 10k for the 15K, makes no difference. You needone MOSFET I used a IRFZ44 (radioshack # RSU 11467040) others maywork but - I look for good current rating (>10) the above is like 70, andthe terms "gate", "drain", "source". Also need a small screw (like 4-40 x3/4"long or longer.) plus two nuts. A 3mm terminal lug is good too.

    FET prep: Looking at the FET from the front leads down (front has step).The left one is "gate" center is "Drain" and right is "Source". Bend thecenter one away then back to parallel with about a .1" offset. Bend theGate outward and the Source outward. Put the screw in from the backsideand put one nut on it to bind on the FET (this keeps the screw in place butalso (check this use a washer if necessary) the nut is level with the FET 

    front. Using short leads solder the 1 meg across the Gate and the Source,not touching the bent-down center wire. The resistor needs to be nearlylevel with the front of the FET (that's why we bent it down.)

    Pump mod: remove the cap -push in the wires as you remove. Unsolder thepoint wire from the top of the point assembly.

    Remove the ground wire connector. Solder the 10 to 15k ohm to a

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    connector lug and put it where the ground wire was. (note if you put thescrew in without a lug or a washer you can damage the coil - may stillwork but don't do it.) As you tighten the screw try to keep the resistorout of the way. It took me a few trys even after soldering the FET to do

    this. 

    Shorten the FET leads as you go with the following steps. With the pointwire unsoldered, the hole from which it came, can be cleared enough thatthe FET Gate wire can be pushed into it, melt the solder if not. Thescrew will be pointing away from the body towards the cap. Solder this

     joint with about .15" between the FET and the point attachment lug.

    Use shrink tube if you got it on the coil wire. Solder the coil wire to the

    center "drain" lead. Insulate (shrink or tape) where it crosses the pointbridge.

    Strip a small spot or poke a hole in the insulation of the positive(blue/black) wire around .5" to .75" from the pump body. Solder the 10-

    15K resistor into this spot. Insulate - I used RTV. 

    Cut the ground wire so it will attach to the source lead without tugging orpushing on the FET, and solder. 

    Measure the distance from the cap holddown screw (put the screw in alittle ways and measure from the screw cross) to the screw in the FET.Measure this distance on the cap from the screw hole to where the FET screw will come thru the cap. Estimate distance from edge of cap close isgood enough. Drill an 1/8" hole in the cap at this point.

    Hint: push the wire feedthru plug away from the pump and then you canpull it into place. Silicone grease is good to help seal, there and aroundcap o-ring. Work the cap into place helping the screw to go thru the newcap hole. Once in place RTV the hole and screw put the nut on (washerwould be good too -forgot to mention) nut it. Once RTV is dried (orsooner) cut off excess of screw if you want - I held the screw in the vice

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    and cut with hacksaw while holding pump so not to wiggle the FET. More

    RTV to ensure sealing.

    KOTH:The following images are by fmfpunk and may help you visualizewhat is being discussed:

    Schematic

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    Stock Pump's points actuated mechanism

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    Solid state actuation device installedDisclaimer: The information contained on this page and on this site is condensed from the combined wisdom of the members and contributors of the Orange Crush Forum. The

    contributions are reprinted here exactly as posted by the contributors. The spelling, syntax, grammar, etc have purposely not been corrected in order to retain its original

    flavor. The contributors are from throughout the World, and English may very well not be their native language. Don't be an ass and complain about the lexicon. It is mostly

    subjective, with a little objectivity thrown in for seasoning, based on the experiences of the contributors. Use this info at your own risk. The site owner is not responsible for

    its accuracy or validity. None of the procedures described should be taken as recommendations by anyone. Take anything you read or hear anywhere, but especially on the Worl

    Wide Web with a very large dose of salt. The cognoscente is a skeptic.