New!ANECALC Help Guide ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on producing. You do not need to have any special software on your computer because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft® Excel® spreadsheets. The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the bottom used for the following: INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program. New! ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.

New! WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread cost using other thread combinations.

mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to millimeters.

STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET

- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new Spreadsheet.

WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH

- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic ANECALC spreadsheets:

Light Weight 2 to 4 oz weight fabrics Medium Weight 5 – 8 oz weight fabrics Heavy Weight 9 – 15 oz weight fabrics The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate the amount of thread consumed. - For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the length of the seam.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS

- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases, you will not have to change this if you are using the correct spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.

SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE

- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.

- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing or seam width before selection the stitch.

(Ex. 504 -1/8” – 3 Thd Overedge). - It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because

this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making the seam.

NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH

- Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous column to make the seam.

- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch. This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch. Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is being produced.

- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch are being used.

SPI

- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.

- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim would be 8 spi. See A&E’s technical bulletin on Selecting the Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&E’s website.

LENGTH OF SEAM

- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length including seam margins but does not include chain-off.

- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches & yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper sheet is normally dependent upon the international location and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups. To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert from meters to yards divide by .91.

- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000 yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a 5,000 metre put-up.

Many sewing operations have mirror components on each side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left pocket, etc.

ANECALC Instructions (continued)

New!ANECALC Help Guide ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on producing. You do not need to have any special software on your computer because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft® Excel® spreadsheets. The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the bottom used for the following: INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program. New! ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.

New! WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread cost using other thread combinations.

mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to millimeters.

STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET

- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new Spreadsheet.

WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH

- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic ANECALC spreadsheets:

Light Weight 2 to 4 oz weight fabrics Medium Weight 5 – 8 oz weight fabrics Heavy Weight 9 – 15 oz weight fabrics The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate the amount of thread consumed. - For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the length of the seam.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS

- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases, you will not have to change this if you are using the correct spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.

SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE

- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.

- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing or seam width before selection the stitch.

(Ex. 504 -1/8” – 3 Thd Overedge). - It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because

this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making the seam.

NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH

- Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous column to make the seam.

- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch. This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch. Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is being produced.

- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch are being used.

SPI

- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.

- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim would be 8 spi. See A&E’s technical bulletin on Selecting the Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&E’s website.

LENGTH OF SEAM

- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length including seam margins but does not include chain-off.

- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches & yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper sheet is normally dependent upon the international location and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups. To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert from meters to yards divide by .91.

- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000 yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a 5,000 metre put-up.

Many sewing operations have mirror components on each side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left pocket, etc.

- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then double the measurement for the seam length.

BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY

- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and “1” under SPI and “1” under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops – 10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).

HIDING ROWS

- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50 operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.

- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just above the Totals.

- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

INSERTING A NEW ROW

- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.

- Next, right click and select Copy.

- Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.

- You will now have two identical rows of one above the other. - Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just

added. - Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu. - Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,

change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.

ANECALC Instructions (continued)

- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then double the measurement for the seam length.

BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY

- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and “1” under SPI and “1” under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops – 10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).

HIDING ROWS

- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50 operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.

- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just above the Totals.

- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

INSERTING A NEW ROW

- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.

- Next, right click and select Copy.

- Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.

- You will now have two identical rows of one above the other. - Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just

added. - Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu. - Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,

change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.

- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information in the New Row you just inserted.

- If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

New! INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR

- New! To make ANECALC easier, we have added a section at the top of the spreadsheet for putting the thread size / type descriptions (column M). You can also change the Thread Group Description rather than using Thread type #1, #2, etc. (i.e., Topstitching #1, Looper threads, Serging threads)

- New! When you enter a thread Tex Size/Type/Clr (i.e, T-24 Perma Core - Clrs), you will see this same thread identification to the right in column O. This can then be copied and pasted in all operations using this particular SKU.

- For ANECALC to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to the thread consumption calculation.

- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread positions where there is any thread consumed. IF AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SPREADSHEET UNDER TOTAL YARDS YOU SEE THE SAME NUMBER REPEATED, YOU MISSED AN CELL FOR THREAD SIZE & TYPE.

- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread descriptions as mentioned above. Never type the same thread Size / Type multiple cells at the top as ANECALC will double the consumption.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU

- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the spreadsheet.

CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT

- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread put-up and price per cone. Example: 6,000 @ $6.00.

- Any currency can be used on ANECALC. CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED

- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the production requirement and ANECALC will calculate the number of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.

- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when

there are coverage issues because there are too many variables that can affect this calculation.

- Ask about ANECALC PLUS that can help calculate the total cones required to thread up a sewing production line.

- New! If you have any questions, contact your local A&E Technical Support Representative.

- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information in the New Row you just inserted.

- If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

New! INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR

- New! To make ANECALC easier, we have added a section at the top of the spreadsheet for putting the thread size / type descriptions (column M). You can also change the Thread Group Description rather than using Thread type #1, #2, etc. (i.e., Topstitching #1, Looper threads, Serging threads)

- New! When you enter a thread Tex Size/Type/Clr (i.e, T-24 Perma Core - Clrs), you will see this same thread identification to the right in column O. This can then be copied and pasted in all operations using this particular SKU.

- For ANECALC to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to the thread consumption calculation.

- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread positions where there is any thread consumed. IF AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SPREADSHEET UNDER TOTAL YARDS YOU SEE THE SAME NUMBER REPEATED, YOU MISSED AN CELL FOR THREAD SIZE & TYPE.

- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread descriptions as mentioned above. Never type the same thread Size / Type multiple cells at the top as ANECALC will double the consumption.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU

- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the spreadsheet.

CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT

- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread put-up and price per cone. Example: 6,000 @ $6.00.

- Any currency can be used on ANECALC. CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED

- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the production requirement and ANECALC will calculate the number of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.

- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when

there are coverage issues because there are too many variables that can affect this calculation.

- Ask about ANECALC PLUS that can help calculate the total cones required to thread up a sewing production line.

- New! If you have any questions, contact your local A&E Technical Support Representative.

ISO 4915 STITCH MATRIX

Page 8 of 9

Avg. Seam Thickness

Fill in the information highlighted in 'yellow' 1.2 mm

Garment Description:

Thread #1 T-21 Perma Spun = T-21 Perma Spun

SIZE: Medium = 0.00

= 0.00 Photo

= 0.00

Cost Per Garment = 0.0000 = 0.00

US $ = 0.00

Rows Seam Needle Needle Thread Bobbin Bobbin Thread Looper Looper / Cover Thread Total

Oper ISO of Length Thread From Column "O" Thread From Column "O" Thread From Column "O" Metres /

# Name of Operation Stitch Stitch SPI CM Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Oper.

1 Join Right Shoulder 301 1 10 13 0.60 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 1.80 T-21 Perma Spun 2.40

2 Bind Neck Opening 1 10 54 2.64 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 2.43 T-21 Perma Spun 5.07

3 Seam Left Shoulder 1 10 13 0.60 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 1.80 T-21 Perma Spun 2.40

4 Tack Binding at seam 1 12 2 0.03 T-21 Perma Spun 0.03 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 0.06

5 Set Sleeves 1 10 96 4.42 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 13.27 T-21 Perma Spun 17.70

6 Close Sleeve & Side 1 10 194 8.94 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 26.82 T-21 Perma Spun 35.76

7 Hem Sleeves 1 12 43 2.95 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 3.61 T-21 Perma Spun 6.57

8 Hem Bottom 1 12 98 6.73 T-21 Perma Spun 0.00 8.23 T-21 Perma Spun 14.960.00 0.00

SUBTOTALS 26.92 0.03 57.96 TOTALS 84.91

###84.91 Total Metres/Garment Consumed

Percent Waste 10% 8.49 Metres/Garment - Waste ###

93.41 Total Metres/Garment w Waste

Program Sz (units)

Thread SKUs from TOTAL Put-Up Price Thread Price Thread Price 10,000 Column "O" above METRES (5000M) Per Metre Per Garment # of Cones needed

1 T-21 Perma Spun 93.41

2 0.00 0.00

3 0.00 0.00

Currency

American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Light Wt. Fabrics ANECALC

Ok to change below (ie, Topstitching)

Thread Description (Size, Brand, Clr.)

Copy & Paste from column "O" to operations below

KNIT SHIRT - Missy's LS Crew Neck

ANECALC THREAD COST ANALYSIS

Page 9 of 9

Rows Seam Needle Needle Thread Bobbin Bobbin Thread Looper Looper / Cover Thread Total

Oper ISO of Length Thread From Column "O" Thread From Column "O" Thread From Column "O" Metres /

# Name of Operation Stitch Stitch SPI CM Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Metres Tex / Type / Color Oper.

93.41 Total Metres/Garment w Waste $ - US $

Per Garment

Prices are for comparative purpose only. Contact your A&E Representative for you exact prices.