"mission ladakh" - my travel log

8/4/2019 "Mission Ladakh" - My Travel Log

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Mission Ladakh

Travel Log on a

Motorcycle Expedition in

Himalayas highest

motorable roads of the

World

By,

Suraj Thulapule

Photo Courtesy: Sudhir & Vasant


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Mission Ladakh A Motorcycle Expedition

The beginning:

This is a story of amateur rider!! Who got Lehd with 3 of like minded Friends (idiots), here w

gooooooooo..

I never thought that riding motorcycle can be a real adventure until I bought one. Riding has always be

passion for me ever since I bought a Bajaj Pulsar 200cc upon starting to earn on my own. I did make it for

couple of long rides and many short rides with friends on weekends. My mind started triggering when I rod

to Kerala from Bangalore and back with my college friend Sudhir who had bullet.

I must tell you what happened in Kerala..!! Believe me; I fell in love with the Mean Machine, Roy

Enfield I said congratulations myself. The bull had made massive impact with its thumping beats, whic

remained for quite long in my mind. Later we used to meet often for Sunday morning ride off Mysore roa

and my admiration towards the machine and love story continued.

He he he.. I am not going to elaborate more nothing much happened with my friends bike!!! I bought

new classic 500cc for myself.

Leh, Ladhak had always been a dream destination for my friend Sudhir. For me, I did not have any preciidea before. I was like a just married (with my brand new classic 500cc) badly wanted one big adventure

honeymoon trip.. Likewise, Sudhir had some other friends too, who would make it for this mission June~July11. We formed a group of 11 enthusiastic riders and named it Mission Ladakh in FB, gathere

information and shared among members time to time. Finally only 4 of us (Me, Sudhir, Karthik & Vasantturned up for this holy adventure

Mission Ladakh Trail

Day1: 24thJune 11 (Bangalore)

The D day was mostly spent in shopping around J.C. road, which was weekly ritual since couple

months. We were finally READY for the much awaited monster ride to Himalayas. My Face Book wall w

flooded with best wishes, advises and status likes. We had to board Sampark Kranti train at yashwanthpu

(Bangalore) to reach Delhi, where we would flag off our trip on 26th June. I and Sudhir were accompanied

my bro and cousin to railway station in taxi around 10 pm.

I was anxious about traveling in train for such a long distance for the first time. We got in to train mu

in advance and I was desperately trying to get settle with huge luggage which occupied most of the spac


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After some time Vasanth joined us with many bags as well as unpacked items, where there was hardly spaleft. Karthik reached station just-in-time before he could have missed the train; but luckily he had lea

number of bags among us. For the moment we could not understand WTF each one of us have carried in o

luggage and how we would manage this on the bike panniers. As train started moving, I felt bizarre that

had to spend next 40 hours in train.

Day2: 25thJune 11 (In transit to Delhi)

Nevertheless, I had nice sleep till 7 am in the morning. I woke to hear comical voices of pantry boysaying chaaaiiiiiii adarakvali masala chaaaiiiiiii WTF some others saying Leeeloooooo.. Upm

vadaaaaaaaaadeeee. Upma vadaaaaaaa Me and Sudhir started giggling seeing each others face. Amaze

seeing others, as they were very at home. I was on the upper berth till 11 am thinking about hassle I wou

undergo to get fresh up. I asked Sudhir about his experience and finally I made up my mind and experience

the Indian railways with all privilege!! It could not get any better for the rest of day hearing same irritati

voices of pantry boys time and again!! I did enjoyed little time in the eve playing cards with Vasanth. Fina

it was night we were waiting throughout the day!!

Day3: 26th June 11 (Delhi Ambala)This morning did not bother me much despite the melody of same panty boys and some outsider enteri

the train around 5 am with Agraaaaaaaa peteeeeeeee.. agraaaa vali peteeee leeloooooooo. Meanwhile I al

heard some frustrated fellow traveler suddenly saying Bhainchuuuttt koun he beee .

As we entered Delhi, It was wonderful foggy weather with drizzling rain. Finally train reached HazaratNizamuddin station, however it was delayed by 2 hours as usual it seem. Vasanth and Karthik rushed toward

brake van to unload Vansants bike, where I and Sudhir managed to off load our luggage to platform. We ha

one full cart of luggage and we had no idea where we are going to head as we did not make any advance hot

reservation.

Outside the station we happen to meet Mr. Panday, a taxi driver who almost looked like kallu mama. O

way I was very happy to see helping nature of Mr. Panday, but I was also anxious that he would tak

advantage of the situation because we were all new to Delhi. We unwind ourselves at a hotel nearby

station. Later Mr. Panday took us to Okla II stage where we collected our bikes from AGS .

It was already 1 pm, and we were in hurry to leave Delhi as soon as possible to make it to Ambala f

night stay. Unfortunately, Sudhirs bike handle bar was damaged in transit which delayed our plans furthe

Thanks to Mr. Panday, he was like godfather for us in Delhi. He took us to a Sardarjis Bullet workshop t


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replace the damaged part. We left the place after sardarji offered us garam chai and gave enough riditips for next 18 days. It was 5 pm when we loaded our luggage into bikes. People around the hotel wer

stunned looking at us and the loaded bikes!

We flagged off from INDIA GATE and the journey of more than 3000kms started from a place

immense historic value to the country. As we commenced the journey to the land of contrast and land o

smiles, the sight of Royal Enfields brought a rush of feelings to my heart - a heady mix of excitemen

eagerness and adventure. Wow

After riding about 20 kms outside city limits on NH1, we stopped at a Dhaba to break our fast since d

before nights Veg biriyaniiiiii leloooooo!!! It was almost dark and my eyesight was very low and I wworried about reaching to Ambala? Usually I do not ride in the night; however I got convinced myself tha

this F ride is all about doing unusual things and went on.

As the night progressed I found it extremely difficult to ride with lot of diversions due to road wideni6 lane project b/w Panipat and Kurukshetra. After lot of tea breaks to beat drowsiness, we reached Amba

Cantonment @ around 1.30 am, clocking 232 kms in our odometer. The city was abandoned; and we were

find some decent place to rest few hours.

Then, we met some by passer in Bajaj Scooter with his wife on back. He asked us to follow him and h

would show us some hotel with parking place. We did frightened once, but he took us to a nice hotel a

introduced himself as Limca Book record holder for fastest Kardung la on his scooter in 1980s. I was pleased after knowing his achievements and having met him on the rig

occasion.

Flag off from India Gate

MeSudhir Vasanth Karthik


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Day4: 27thJune 11 (Ambala Manali)

This day we were to reach Manali, which is 403 Kms from Ambala. The day started with waking up t

realize that we were late again and would need to ride in the dark to reach Manali. Our initial targets we

much more than what is expected after series of hassle and cascading delays. However, we seemed ver

confident as we knew that its just a beginning, we need to hold on.

It was time to take out our tarpaulins to pack our luggage. The packing took more than an hour, as we ha

to be very organized for rest of journey entering into Himachal Pradesh and thereafter J&K. Just outsid

the hotel A/C room, weather was blazing hot (40+) and we kick started our bikes around 12 pm.

I already had so many reflections in my mind for further days riding; nothing was going as we had planne

back in Bangalore. We pursued our basic itinerary; pass by Chandigarh, rupnagar, Swarghat, Mandi, and Kul

on NH21. We generally would stop and take a break of Max 15min after every 50Km ride. Our first stop f

the day was Chandigarh; we had brunch around 1:30pm at some dhabha and continued riding further. A

those hours, we were riding average 90km/hr and the roads were a long, boring stretch of silky smoo

tarmac extending as far as eyes could see and in fact even beyond that.

Breakfast @ Chandigarh


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Further as entered HP through Swarghat, weather changed dramatically and started raining heavily. Wdid stopped at Petrol station hoping that, raining will stop or otherwise it would be difficult to cover 214 km

more after getting drench in rain. But it was already 5pm and the rain was not like the one you experience

Bangalore!!!! It was not really a good time to think, hope, and plan or whatever; we continued our daily ritu

of night riding

Actual journey stated here with curvy roads in Swarghat and with the Beas River following along side

the road till Manali. As much as I hated my ride from Swarghat to Manali, mainly for the fact that it raineI on other side loved every minute spent on bike. Especially the road from Mandi to Manali is awesome wit

beautiful tunnel and curvy roads beneath mammoth rocky walls on left side of the mountain. Moreover it w

appealing to us, because we could see the scene only with lightening effect in the dark with thunderstorm

We lament on our night riding ritual, we missed the most scenic tarmac roads possible in our entire journey

Though the heavy rainfall all through from Swarghat till Manali for over 214 kms ensured that I was le

with utterly soaked gloves, wrinkled and blackened hands, the entire route till Manali was fun with a capit

F. To sum it up in a word, PERFECT! And we reached Manali at 2 am next day morning.

Getting tarpaulins ready before Swarghat


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Day5: 28thJune 11 (Manali Mountain Biking Preparation)

As per initial plan it was suppose to be a day to start off mountain biking through Rhotang Pass (13000

altitude) - a Gate Way to Leh, Ladakh from Manali. However, considering the labor we had already gon

through and seriousness /preparation for days to come, we have decided to stay back in Manali for one da

deviating from original plan. I had planned lot of things to do. I could finish most of it; accept visiting mo

sacred Hedimba Temple which was just 1.5 km from our hotel.

The day was chilling cold and raining all through. We were engaged in shopping custom made tarpauli

bags, rain wares, and general check-up of our bikes. And sitting in restaurant beside Beas River and eatinHot Momos was great experience. Incidentally, there was a himachali girl in the momo shop, who g

impressed after we visited her shop couple of times i.e. for breakfast, lunch and again for dinner I w

linked for momo girl just for the reason of talking to her and she being shy over. Ha ha ha Thoug

whatever reason I was linked for, the himachalis are very kind and innocent people

Day6: 29thJune 11 (Manali Keylong)

The day was known to be the toughest, as many friends as well as local himachalis told us, of course

that point of time we did not know that these words would become mantra in the days to come. Waking u

early in the morning was always a big joke!! Though, we planned to leave Manali by 3 am we kick stated o

bikes around 6.00am. By the by, my friend Vasanths bike was very naughty all through the trip. Eve

Relaxing at Momo Shop


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morning either there would be problem in fuse/ electricals or the spark plug. Poor guy had it this day toFuse/spark plug, babaaaaaa he was named after all.

The epic journey started with so much excitement, eagerness and adventure. Locals waved hands an

greeted us best wishes for our voyage. This day we had to cover about 136 kms to Keylong, which is the las

township until Leh. Shortly after Manali, on the roads towards Kothi we did not encounter many hurdles. W

stopped in Kothi to get acclimatize before climbing seasonal settlement of Rhotang Pass.

Breakfast at Kothi

Panorama of Kothi


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As we come closer to Rhotang Pass, our difficulties multiplied in no time. With muddy roads on higaltitude mountain pass, it was becoming increasingly difficult to ride, and to add to that traffic on th

narrow pass!!!

Whatever I was going through, it seemed like a blockbuster of my life if I could complete. In frustratioI told my friends F I was not informed of which I am being laughed at even now. This moment was

eye opener for me to understand what it takes to get Leh D. It was then, around 2 pm in the afternoon w

were still struck in the pass due to heavy traffic, bad roads and with extreme freezing cold weather.

Erratic weather @ Rhotang La

Traffic Jam @ Rhotang La


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Further couples of kilometers towards end of pass, with muddy slush almost as high as the foot peCaused greater damaged to everyones bikes than on the entire trip snapped clutch cables and burnt clutc

plates and all sort of trouble. As Sudhirs bike was old and of less power, he was stranded between. Aga

the route cause was the luggage; everyone was carrying around 60 kg + luggage!! Incidentally, we did not s

so much of luggage with any other bikers on the pass. We shared most of his luggage and moved on.

Situation became even worse with Rhotang Pass introducing us to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) an

experiencing land slides on left side of the pass. I panicked in this raw adventure and unfortunately due

excess burning of clutch and high throttle, bike broke down. Oh My God, this was like life and death for m

and Sudhir, as huge rocks were rolling in from left side of mountain and weather was already extreme and add to this it started raining heavily too.

With broken bike, I and Sudhir were stranded in the pass with no help absolutely. I realized that, it awfully difficult to foresee what is appropriate when you are on any adventure. In situation like this, I aske

myself who should then decide what is appropriate?? Of course it is me!! But when nature plays your gam

you can not draw a line b/w appropriate and inappropriate. Vasanth and Karthik were ahead of us almo

reaching the Rhotang Top. We could not communicate with them, as they had crossed the network zone.

Raw Adventure Rhotang La !


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How unlucky I was; I had spare clutch plate which was in Karthiks bag!! Then it was 4 pm in the evenineveryone around me, including army personnel advising me to go back to Manali otherwise I would be froze

to death in the Fogy Mountains. Some of them even suggested leaving bike and walking down to Manali. B

HOW was the big question to answer myself?? Though, vehicles were coming from Keylong side, all of the

were loaded trucks and to add to this soldiers were not letting them to stop as the pass was very narrow.

Finally after hours of stranding, one Bolero Camper coming from Keylong stopped and by grace of go

driver immediately agreed to help me, but he moved on little further, as army would create hassle.

somehow turned my bike and descended about 2 km by taking jump with foul clutch and gearbox and loade

my bike to jeep. I was standing with the bike in heavy rain; in heavy traffic and also seeing huge lands slidein front of my eyes made me nerves. Culverts /bridges on the pass were sliding due to flood and I was no

sure of reaching Manali even then! I did wipe tears from my eyes. WTF.. The brave driver was yelling fro

his cabin, Bhaiyaaa gabravo mat, ye to roj ka kam he yaha!!!!! Hats-off to himachalis

I reached back to Manali around 8 pm. With me, Sudhir also rode back to Manali as some of his luggag

was with me and he wanted at least two of us would stay together for days to come. I was glad for myse

that, I was out of danger. But I never wanted to see Rhotang Pass again in my life!!! I was feeling so down

was even ready to ride back either to Delhi or take Srinagar route to reach Leh. My attitude made Sudh

little angry and expressed that, he could have gone ahead as his bike was perfect.

It was awful mourning feeling whole night, after big disappointment and followed by some arguments wiSudhir. I got a call from Vasanth in the Mid-night, while I was shivering in fever as I drenched in rain. The

had reached Keylong and he was asking why I went back and all stuff!!

Day7: 30thJune 11 (Manali Mandi Manali)

The past night was spent in introspecting and seeking some resolution. I did not get any concrete Ide

for the day. All I knew was, it was very early to give up! My confidence level rose with my dad inspiring mover telephone conversation and telling me not to comeback without accomplishing this mission. It was tim

to challenge what was not appropriate yesterday, but with no mistakes this time.

I got in touch with R.E. dealer in Mandi which is 100 kms from Manali. Around 10 am we left to Mandi

taxi to get the clutch plates for fixing my bike. Thanks to Rama Pundit, taxi driver cum fleet owner, Ride D

Himalaya Champion what not; made our day lively with his excellent driving skills and getting along with

passionately. We could see the most scenic route of Mandi to Manali in day light, which we missed on th

first take.


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Though, we reached back to Manali by 11 pm due to heavy landslides on the way, Rama could arrange fofixing my bike at his friends place almost during party hours. Mechanic replaced clutch plates, along wit

booze and finished everything by 1:30 am. And Rama also arranged for a Bolero Pick-up to cross t

Rhotang Stretch as it was even worse due to continued rains in Manali. I owe so much to Rama Pundit, that

would want to match up to.

Day8: 1stJuly 11 (Manali Keylong)

Within no time after hitting bed, my alarm started ringing!!! It was 3am. Time say Good Bye to Mana

Enough is enough; we got bored with this place despite the Momo girl after we loaded both of our bikaround 4.30 am, we went to Hedimba Temple. We prayed with goddess Hedimbi from outside the temple ga

itself and with full of hope and aggression we headed towards Rhotang Pass. Bang bang Rhotang

The jeep driver was one exception to himachali brave drivers!! He had agreed for this job only aft

Rama Pundit Plead with, and also threatened with. Hmmm the driver seems itchy when we stated our journ

from Manali, of course we had spoiled his sweet morning sleep and he already knew the Rhotang conditio

Both the bikes were suitably stuck against each other in the utility compartment and we were sitting in cab

holding 2~3 bags, petrol cans, engine oil etc.

Clutch Baba !


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For the first few kilometers, none of us opened our mouth, as every one was anxious for some or othreason. Drive became comfortable after Sudhir finally broke his silence and started interacting with drive

First thing driver asked us was, how do you know Rama Pundit?? !!!! The driver was seriously unfortunate gu

who got trapped by Rama Pundit he he.

Though, the roads after Kothi were pathetic, the champion, turbo charged, bolero camper could get awa

with negligible efforts. Once I felt like, driving dads 4x4 93 model jeep to my sweet home, on chaot

rainy day in the monsoons. I have experienced similar roads in my hometown; however things like weathealtitude and natural calamity makes lot of difference in Rhotang.

Rhotang TOP


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A few more kilometers towards top of the Rhotang led us to our second day gamble, wherein we spottehuge traffic jam with very less visibility and time was around 9:00am. Until this point, we were unde

impression that we would reach the Top easily by 9:30~10:00 am. Coward driver stopped the jeep, mu

before the actual spot were there was traffic jam. Our efforts to convince him to move ahead we

hopeless. He stopped jeep in deserted place, so that he can anytime take U turn and reach back Mana

WTF!! When we were worrying about crossing Rhotang, this guy was reluctant to stand by us.

We waited inside the jeep for hours together, as it was horrible cold out there. We wore riding jacke

muffler, Balaclava, gloves and pooped dim ox (tab) one after the other to keep our consciousness. Aroun2:00 pm, weather got clear and people started coming out of their vehicles and talking to each other. W

heard from some taxi driver that, roads ahead are worse and army bulldozers are lugging every vehicle t

cross the final 2 km stretch. But we were not sure as to till what time army would carryout this. We start

feeling that, we may take 3rd

attempt too, if army suspends support by evening. I really could not understawhat was happening with me, millions of thoughts were rushing into mind. I was just stun for some time.

Frustrated Sudhir finally got down from jeep and walked down to point of occurrence. He gave a goo

news by calling, that army has expedite the activity and we would be in priority as there were hundreds

Army Supplies Trucks behind us, which were heading to Leh. Salute to Indian Army, which plays fearful od

to maintain border roads all through the season. By the end of the pass, my friends and local himachal

words rung true. It was the scariest movements of my life ever. By grace of goddess Hedimbi, we cou

finally cross the pass by 4:30 pm reaching the Top of Rhotang.


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Though, we had accomplished some colossal tasks, there was no time for us to unwind. We had to riddown 100+ kilometers to meet Vasanth and Karthik after 3 days. As soon as we reached top, weather we

extreme again with thick fog and drizzly rain. We unloaded the bike, fixed luggage carriers to bike an

loaded our luggage; all this took us just 20 minutes. Wow... yes we did it. With utmost difficulty we spen

some 5 more minutes for having Maggie in near by tent, as stomach was throbbing with only dim ox (tab).

Next stop was Keylong (11000 ft altitude), which is the administrative centre of Lahaul Spitii & is th

last township in this route, till reaching Leh. We descend and rode to Keylong, along the side of Chand

River. En route, there was a check post at Khoksar and a lovely waterfall just after we crossed bridge Sissu. I and Sudhir were in high spirits, as land of contrast and smile, the Ladakh already started welcomi

us with titanic mountains either side of the valley. Mountains were capped with snow, and with differen

texture in every angle. We stopped at Sissu to share our feelings and take pee break. That was an ide

place for pee break.

All set for descend to Keylong


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About 15 kms ahead, further towards Tandi, Sudhirs bike accelerator cable broke down. He is man; H

does his bike service himself even at home. He changed the cable within no time and we moved ahead. Tanis about 8 kms before Keylong, were the rivers Chandra & Bhaga meet. Here is the last petrol pump on th

route, till we reach Leh, which is at a distance of about 380 Kms. We tanked up and also filled up two 5 l

jerry cans, which added up to already over loaded luggage carriers. We reached hotel at around 7:30 pm

Keylong where Vasanth and Karthik were waiting for 2 days. I was glad; we regrouped for rest of our journ

and celebrated Rhotang moments.

Keylong is the cool and calm town with less population. You could get any thing from local market whic

essential for stay & trip. I would call unwise, if some one want to live in Manhattan even after 40s!! I fe

Keylong is the place for retirement for sure

After the pee break @ Sissu


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Day9: 2ndJuly 11 (Keylong Sarchu)

This day we covered about 114kms.

Keylong to Sarchu was physically testing ride of the journey with introducing massive water-crossing

route. Jispa is about 20 km ahead & more beautiful, compared to Keylong due to wide valley with the riv

rushing fast. This place is recommended for camping along side Chandra & Bhaga River. However, I miss

the opportunity as Vasanth and Karthik had already taken room on rent at Keylong.

We could figure out the best restaurant of the entire journey in this deserted place. I can not believ

this. The parata, cheese, and toasts were delicious as it was need of the hour. Journey after Keylong wa

much more peaceful than the past. The ride for the first 40 Kms from Keylong till Darcha was comfortab

compare to remaining 70 kms of the day. Darcha is another police check-post.

Chandra & Bhaga River @ Jispa


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After Darcha, we came across massive water crossing Zing Zing Bar where everyone of us got stuck f

a good 2-3 minutes in ice cold water. Even throttling hard and trying to move the bike back and forth didnhelp at all. Finally, we were left with no option other than have two or three guys pushing each bike until

cleared the crossing, at the end of which our legs were almost frozen and completely numb. This was where

spare pair of socks really paid off. With no idea about just how many of such excruciating crossings la

ahead, a quick change to dry socks was just the thing I needed to lift my spirits and keep riding.

Yummy parata & toast at Hotel Padma

Zing Zing Bar Water crossing


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From here, we ascend gradually to the spectacular double pass of the Baralacha-La (about / 16000 fThere is a small lake just before Baralacha La, known as the Suraj Tal (Sun Lake).

Baralacha La

Suraj Tal - Lake


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A few more crossings led us to settlement of Bharatpur. The drive from Bharatpur to Sarchu is througspectacular plain valleys. Sarchu is located in a very picturesque valley. The view of the area during sunset

indeed a very memorable one! It was also one of the coldest places for overnight on my trip. Sarchu

located at the border between the states of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir. An Indian army cam

is sited there.

Though this place is very much tempting for pitching own tents because of surrounding gorgeous vall

stretching in to kilometers, someone who looks after army camp there, advised not to take chance wit

erratic temperatures in the night! As the day before we reached, some riders were frozen and later arm

evacuated them to safe abode. Hence, we descended couple of km; we reached Sarchu to find rented tents

dormitory. These tents are maintained by womens from Leh until end of the season in September. We me

one of such gutsy women Mrs. Dholma and got impressed by her hospitality and manners. She treated us liher relatives from Bangalore and served us with bowls of hot soup and hot magi were just the things neede

to lift the soggy atmosphere.

In Himachal & J&K day light will dramatically go off and become dark around 8.15 pm. As we settledown in tents temperature was gradually dropping to single digits!! Every one was grabbing each others co

creams and making very effort to stay conscious all through night!! he he Vasanth was very anxious abo

waking up dead!! He was really scared and even did not sleep in sleeping bag as it would be difficult

evacuate in emergency situation!!! His situation was worse than capital F He was yelling O F, O F.. I can n

breathe!! And we surrendered to nearly 2~3 degree and zipped our sleeping bags. I appreciate Mrs. Dholm

somewhere in late night she came to our tent and was trying to wake us up for dinner. I felt miserable f

three reasons, firstly we were freezing in our sleeping bags and secondly she had to waste dinner order an

thirdly she did not charge for wastage.

Bharatpur Sarchu


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Day10: 3rdJuly 11 (Sarchu Rumtse)

Sarchu altitude didnt spare us from mountain sickness. The day after we reached Sarchu, we were

ride a distance of 280kms across the More (Moray) plains to reach Leh. That was one morning when I didn

feel like getting onto the bike, thanks to a terrible attack of sinusitis and the freezing ground water left m

hand numb and paining. Popping a couple of pills and Vicks vaporization didnt help much either. After th

breakfast once on the bike though, all the sickness suddenly vanished, and we were off to Leh.

Sarchu - Night

Sarchu Morning with full of hopes


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Once we crossed Sarchu, first habitation was about 80 km away at Pang. This journey took about 4 himmediately after Sarchu was a check post, which marks the Himachal Pradesh state border. As we ent

the state of Jammu and Kashmir we noticed the change in the scenery from green valleys to barren, rugge

mountains. En route to Pang ascending through the Gata Loops we crossed two high altitude Passes, i.e, Na

La ( 16250 ft ) & Lachung La ( 16600 ft ).. The Gata Loops consists of 21 hair pin bends which take you

to a height of 15302 feet.

Descend from Lachung La to Pang is very beautiful, road passes through series of dramatic gorges. Aft

Pang and climbing about 5 km; unexpectedly we found ourselves on a flat grassy land. This region is known aMore (Moray) plains which extend for some hundred square kilometers which geographically is a part of th

Tibetan plateau but lies within India..

Beautiful More plains

Gata Loops


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Riding through the more planes was an experience that can be described with just one word beautifWith huge mountains all around and a stretch of a long sand dune, through them it is simply a road where y

set yourself in crawl mode and look at the hills capes all around. Everybody was ridging parallel as there we

no sign of road margin! Sand dunes were almost as high as foot peg!! And with no other vehicle around us f

miles, the feeling was one of vast solitude.

From More plains, Leh was about 150 kms away through camping site Debring and Rumtse. Reaching Lewould lead us to ride in dark remembering Manali days again. And we were not sure of the road condition

passing through the younger sibling of Khardung La and Chang La, Tanglang La the third highest motorab

road in the world, eventually leading to Leh. After more plains, gradual climbing about 30 Kms on uneveroads used my entire throttle to gain a speed of 25kmph where the bike stalled and started up again and le

us to Tanglang La (about 17500 ft). I felt this was coldest part of the trip and the time was around 6 p

This is the scary place to get struck. Hardly spending about less than 5 minutes in damn freezing cold, w

fled towards Rumtse.

Further ride to Rumtse was steep descending about 30 km on wavy rough tarmac roads. And 5 days

Grave Mountain biking was coming to an end. After a quick pee break in dim day light, I speeded up to rea

Rumtse, leaving my friends behind. I made every effort to reach before I had to switch on my headlights.

was delight for ripping and banking through the steep mountain curves, while sustaining average speed o

75~80 kmph. This journey was an incentive that we earned all through from Rhotang Pass In fact, Sudh

and Karthik were concerned chasing after me and then stopped couple of times to see through steep valle

confirming whether I met with misfortune thumping off the road.

Tanglang La (Top)


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Upon everyone reaching Rumtse, we decided to stay over night at local dormitory. Rumtse is villaghousing with maximum of 50 people which is first settlement on the road after we crossed Tanglang La.

Day11: 4thJuly 11 (Rumtse LEH)

After breakfast, a scenic drive to Leh was an amazing one, with landscape offering stirring views of hu

rock walls towering on either side of the road, views of Indus Valley and many monasteries on the wa

Descended about 30km to the police check post at Upshi, which lies by the Indus River and it was just 5

km short of Leh. We were more than happy to reach Leh mainly for the fact that the day was dedicated

rest and repair, which all of us and the bikes were in desperate need of.

En-route, towards Karu is awesome tarmac silky roads where I just set my throttle at 90 Kmph wit

excitement of reaching LEH. Karu has huge presence of Indian Army Trishul Battle School located along si

of the road which is 200 kms from the Sino-Indian border. This has been lending pre-induction training

army troops to prepare them for tenure on the Siachen Battle School at the Glacier.

Dormitory @ Rumtse


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Just before 15 kms to Leh town, I visited Shey palace which the King Deldan Namgial (1620 - 1640) bu

in the beginning of the 17th century AD. The main image in the monastery is the 3- storey statue of Buddh

Shakyamuni, made of copper guilt, which was made by King Deldan Namgail in the memory of his fatheSingay Namgail. The statue is the only of its kind in the region.

KaruLEH

Shey palace


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Finally we spotted a sign board LEH, indicating that Yes we have reached Leh and time was around am. This day was very important for us to unwind and get charged up to explore Leh in coming days. We ha

advance dormitory bookings at Shanti Guest House; belong to Tesring and his son Dorjey. Tesring was

veteran guide for globe trekkers in Indian part of Himalayas. Subsequently, with entrepreneurial interes

started up Shanti Tours and Travels. Tesring was in touch with me since mid of preparation period of tr

which lasted about for a good 5~6 months before the flag off.

Upon reaching the dormitory, a leisurely shower was indeed helpful to lift our spirits. Followed by a quic

nap in naturally air conditioned room, we headed to town in search of a restaurant. Many tourist and locawould raise their eye brows looking at our bulls with huge panniers and hearing thumping sound. And we m

many bikers who were hanging around the town and exchanged similar feelings of riding through Himalay

Mountains from Manali to Leh.

It was time to call home, friends and office to say hi, I reached LEH. Where I was busy on phone, othe

picked up some books (Vasanth was reading Tintin book!) to read from caf. From here, I roomed around t

city to find service station to offer a leisurely shower to my bull as well. And rest of the evening was j

passed shopping around the town and watching firang beauties at cafs. .


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Day12: 5thJuly 11 (Leh Khardung La Leh)

Overall we had lost 3 days, deviating from the original itinerary; due to misfortune at Rhotang Pass. W

tweaked the itinerary based on remaining Privilege Leaves back at office, while covering the most venerab

attractions in and around Leh. This day we were set to ride across the highest motorable road in the worldKhardung La (18380 ft). Khardung La is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier li

partway up the latter valley. The road towards the La is well maintained by BRO (Border Roads Organizatioas the pass is strategically important to India to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier.

Khardung La is situated 39 km by road from Leh. The first 24 km, as far as the South Pullu check poinroads are good. From there to the North Pullu check point about 15 km beyond the pass the roadway

primarily loose rock, dirt, and rivulets of snow melt. However, this pass is in better repair than many of th

surrounding passes (Tanglang La or Chang La, for example). The view from Khardung La is amazing as we ca

see all the way over the Indus valley, while seemingly endless peaks of the Zanskar range spreads out

front.

Khardung La ended up being an extremely ceremonious place, with everyone happily clicking photos wit

much enthusiasm and celebrating the successful completion of half the mission. A kahwah (Kashmiri Te

and magi at the Highest Cafeteria in the World was completely relaxing. Getting here would undoubtedly a

ego factor for every rider/motorist.

Panorama of Leh from South Pullu

Leh City


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I was stun looking just outside the cafeteria where our bullets were surrounded with tourist mob clicki

photos along the bike. Many of them also asked us to lend Vasanths Indian Flag for a picture perfect. O

Sardar and Sardarin got impressed with my bike and asked for a short ride too. And moment Sardar kic

stated the bike with his wife as pillion; I thought that he will make it to North Pullu. Seriously both

them were acting crazy. After observing high voltage drama, we descended back to Leh Town for over nigh

stay, which was a deviation from our original plan to camp at Nubra valley en-route Hunder and Diskit.

Second half of the day I visited Leh palace. The Leh Palace, known as Lhachen Palkhar was built

Dharmaraja Singey Namgial in 1600. It has 9 storeys. The nine-storied palace was built by the 17th centuillustrious ruler of Ladakh, Sengge Namgyal. It is an imposing structure, though in ruins now, situated on

hill and commands a grand view of the Leh town. The building in grand Tibetan architecture is said to hav

inspired the famous potala of Lahasa (In Tibet), built half a century later.


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LEH City

LEH Palace


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Day13: 6thJuly 11 (Leh Pangong Tso)

This day we were to ride to our last and foremost attraction at Leh, i.e. Pangong Tso Lake. As usual w

could never kick start our bikes early on any of the riding day and my efforts to influence others wen

hopeless. Vasanth would get up early, however used to spend hell lot of time in packing and wrapping hluggage with huge many small tarpaulins pieces. whereas I would jus put in luggage into handy custom mad

tarpaulin bags and place them on panniers. But, most of time I would open all the bags again, in last minuthurry searching for some thing vital. Either the way, we had it with our excess luggage all through the trip!

And the regular delay was extended with waiting time for good 45 minutes at only ATM in the town. Wdid disperse to get fuel, air & money and after completing all we left the town around 12:00pm. This day w

were to ride 170 kms for this excursion en-route Leh - Shey - Karu - Shakti - Chang La - Tanksey - Lukung

Spangmik (Pangong Tso).

After we started riding on Leh Manali highway; for about 30 kms off Leh, Vasanths bike broke dow

while in riding with all electricals shutting down. As I said earlier his bike is peculiar, I was always advisihim to get one Pooja done. We tried with some customary techniques by cleaning spark plugs, replacin

fusses and checking battery charge level with buzzer but everything seem ok. I can not believe, he haalready used 15 of the spare fusses bought from Ambala!! Almost everyday couple of fusses would blow

and I was suspecting his favorite accessories like high voltage head light, fog lights, mobile charger etc anhe would get restless for removing connections time and again. Vasanths ride has been the most uncerta

among all of us because god knew that he will jus do it

With much frustration he made a call to R.E. Bangalore and yell at Manager Sir en sir nimdu Roy

Enfield, nange beda sir, nivu tegolli I also called up an Engineer at dealer place and sought his advis

however our problem seem unique, though something silly. After beating around the bush for more than 3

minutes, we could trace the point of occurrence. It was in battery terminal, wherein the wire connectio

broke off the terminal and the point was hiding from view. I value Japanese word Genchi Genbutsu whi

means go to source of the problem and investigate thoroughly.

Hmmm.. For once everyone smiled when bike stated Yes Vasanth did it again From here we rode unKaru on highway and took deviation to go towards village Shakti and roads were mostly straight and inclin

was little till we crossed Shakti. Shakti and a couple of kilometers thereafter the accent for Chang

started.

For most part accent was steep and roads were generally good and we were greeted by some wonderf

views of village in the plateau below. However the final few kms of the accent were in bad shape and th

accent was quite steep, which tested out riding skills as well as endurance of bikes. Of all the passes w

encountered in a trip to Ladakh, Chang La was the steepest and due to bad roads during the final accent

was also the toughest, no wonder it is called The Mighty Chang La


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At 17586ft it is also the second highest motorable pass in Ladakh. Upon reaching the summit, we we

greeted by the Indian Army troops who are stationed here to acclimatize to high altitude, before they a

posted in Siachen. There is a temple on top of Chang La pass called Chang La Baba ka Mandir, as well a cabbuilt by the army where we warm up our self while chatting with the soldiers and have complimentary t(black tea) by the Indian Army. Temperature out there is indeed freezing where there is caution board b

Army suggesting travelers not to spend more than 20 minutes on the summit. Nevertheless, I could not beafor even 10 minutes rest!! And I began to descend from Chang La, road was in bad condition for a fe

kilometers beyond which superbly laid tarmac coupled with beautiful scenery was awaiting us.

Shakti Village


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We stopped for a big break to have lunch around 5 pm at Tanksey. Its a small town with few shops anhotels which serve hot magi. Further riding to Lukung, where the magnificent Pangong Tso starts. Journ

beyond Tanksey for most part is through fantastically laid tarmac and spectacular mountain views wit

shadows here and there, however over speeding here was extremely dangerous since there were quite a fe

water passages built in the middle of the road, which essentially mean 8-10 feet long depression in th

middle of the road without any warnings!

It was almost 7.30 in the evening and sunlight was brilliant though hiding behind the mountains an

steadily getting ready to set. At times riding was also slothful as, much of sand dunes were spread acros

the road. However, we were in high spirits looking at the blue sky and dazzling sun rays spreading across th

textured Mountains.

TankseyLukung

Sun set @ 7:30pm


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In fact, Karthik took the Indian Flag and started waving demonstrating his romance to nature. Thats tincredible India; I had never seen nature at her best, seriously. And Karthik was named here as Romanc

Baba .

This excursion was a good food for my newly bought camera. All through the riding from Tanksey, I woustop every 3~4 minutes to capture that most excellent click. And Sudhir was making fun of me for my deta

into body postures while taking pictures. The most famous one was the Sheila Pose as Sudhir expressed.dont understand what he means by that!

As we approached the lake, the sheer size of it starts becoming more apparent as we finally reached ishores. Our next priority was to pitch tents we carried all the way from Bangalore. Though, Sudhir was ki

of lethargic, I was firm on pitching tent. We could get some space for pitching tents on rent basis for R

100 per tent at nearby eco huts. By the time we made our tents, it was already 9 pm and eatery crew was

hurry to close the dinner!

Here we go with the best part of the Pangong Tso as some British couple joined after seeing us partyi

outside the dinning tent. Later we were joined by some of their friends too, which made the atmosphervibrant. The British couple own a motorcycling group called as Blazing Trails based in Manali and all othe

were from Landon to here making their holidays in Himalayas riding Royal Enfield. Wow, what else we can afor on a perfect date at Pangong Tso. As we always say, Rides needs a rider; we spent whole night chatti

about various topics ranging from engineering of the bike, riding the bike, some must visit locations acrosIndia, and also some genuine comments about governance in India etc etc.. It was power packed sessio

inside the tent where temperature were falling outside.

Pangong Tso @ 8:15pm


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Day14: 7thJuly 11 (Pangong Tso Leh)

Extended party hours & freezing temperature throughout the night left us choking experience in o

tent. I feet abandoned when I woke up at 10am, Sunbeams were very sharp indeed and the sizzlin

atmosphere inside the tent. I and Sudhir went near shores of lake to take glimpse of Pangong Tso. Long waalong the shore was a fine refreshment to lift up mood.

Phunsukh Wangdu (Amir Khan) saw his dream girl Kareen Kapoor come in on the scooter, dressed in as h

bride in the climax scene of 3 Idiots. If you remember the beautiful lake where the whole scene was shothat lake is Pangong Tso. The Lake with its color, an exquisite scintillating shade of blue, the orange an

carmine tints of the sunrise turn it into a wondrous work of nature. Its paradise for camera buggers, and

too enjoyed few clicks The Sheila way

Lake is 134 km long and extends from India to Tibet. 60% of the length of the lake lies in China. And th

lake is 5 km wide at its broadest point. The mountains around the Lake are of various shape and colors.

was a delight to my eyes and pure like a morning due, the stillness, the calmness and the beauty is s

overwhelming that it left me mesmerized. Pangong Tso beauty cannot be described but can only b

experienced.

Pangong Tso Camp Site


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Back to eco huts we finished our breakfast and then it was time to take apart our tents. Departed th

place after meeting British folks to say good bye and we headed to shores of lake again for group phot

session. By then, the colors of lake and the surrounding mountains texture seem entirely different from th

morning sight. With witnessing sheer beauty of this lake I wished for a few more days to stay at the pla

watching the myriad colors of the lake at different times of the day.

Rest of the day we were to ride on the same roads reaching back to Leh. In fact, reaching to Pangong Tand back itself was an amazing experience to cherish. As there was photography competition back in offic

I did click most of the landscape pictures on this route. While on return, we did not explore much in an

around the places we rode through. Reaching Leh was important for us to wrap-up things before we leave o

to Kargil on the next day.

We reached back to Leh quite early in the evening and then spent time at Shati Stupa. It is located

the hilltop at Changspa and it was just above our guest house. The Stupa was constructed by a Japanes

Buddhist organization, known as 'The Japanese for World Peace'. The aim behind the construction of th

Stupa was to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism and to promote World Peace.

Beautiful Pangong Tso


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A magnificent white-domed structure, the Shanti Stupa offers spectacular views of the sunset. T

Stupa looks best at night, when it is beautifully illuminated with glittering lights. Also the Panorama view

Leh city from the Stupa was mind-blowing. Last few hours were left before we say good bye to Leh. And whit bed quite early after some quick shopping in town and followed by dinner.

Day15: 8thJuly 11 (LEH Kargil)

A sense of accomplishment was setting in, even though the trip was far from over. However leaving Le

was enough of a wakeup call for me; finally I was heading home, leaving a part of my heart in Ladakh. With

determination to come back, I took a final glance of Leh, and it went disappearing in my bikes rear vie

mirror.

After a many days of torture impose on me, due to harsh riding conditions, I was looking forward to rid

through better roads and with moderate temperature. This day we were to reach Kargil through Le

Srinagar National Highway No. 1, which is 230 Km from Leh. The initial 100 kms or so did not disappoint m

as we rode on beautifully laid tarmac. With the views transforming every now and then, we were kept bu

trying to capture them side by side. And with such wonderful roads, riding was inevitable to be fast an

furious.

Shanti Stupa


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En-route Lamayuru we encountered our first pass of the Leh Srinagar route, Fotu La. Couple of houlater, we were standing on top of yet another pass, Namika La. After riding on these splendid roads, as w

were getting closer to our destination for the day, Kargil, roads were pathetic still better than earlier day

We did experience drizzling rain and we knew that monsoons going to be threat for further days riding.

Incidentally, this place reminds me of Pepper Spray episode!! I had carried a pepper spray bottle which

bought from Bangalore for self defense during the course of riding if any. Sudhir was ROFL since the day knew. He teased me enough whenever we used to meet for reviewing our preparation before the trip. I a

fortunate that, I did not encounter any adversities as such in entire trip. However, my idea became countproductive as I got self victimized due to slipping of safety lock while taking photo The Sheila Way, where

I had paced the same in waist pouch. Lol .. I had pepper spray on my jeans for a good 20 seconds. !!

By evening we were in Kargil and once there we started our search for hotel. Since we needed securparking, the task was a bit difficult and it took us almost an hour to find a hotel of our choice. We stayed a

Hotel Caravan Serai. A view from Hotel on hilltop of Kargil Town was exciting. It was time for us to go sleep; next day we were to enter Kashmir valley.

Lamayuru Monastery


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Day16: 9th July 11 (Kargil Srinagar)

We had early start, knowing we had to cover over 280kms to reach Srinagar. Breakfast in hotel consisteof bread toast with unlimited cheese and jam, cheese stuffed alu parata, orange juice, a good breakfa

indeed. With Drass just 56kms away where Kargil War Memorial is situated, we rode on. And Vasanth stayeback to make a call to his friend and told us that he would join us in Drass.

Just before Drass, we saw Kargil War Memorial and it was time to pay our homage to the brave soldie

who fought for us. The 1999 Kargil war, though not officially a war claimed the lives of hundreds of Indi

soldiers and air force personals and left thousands of soldiers injured.

From the main entrance, road leads through VIJAY PATH which is named after Capt. Vijyanth Thap

who during war, on night 28/29 June, 1999 daringly attacked the enemy machine gun post and destroyed

But in the process he lost his life for displaying remarkable cool, raw courage and exemplary heroism in th

face of enemy, Capt. Vijyanth Thapar was awarded VIR CHAKRA on 25 th Aug 99. Walking through this PAT

inspired me fearlessness.

Further inside, there is monument built by his name Operation Vijay. And a wall at the monument lis

the names and ranks of all the soldiers who lost their lives, protecting our country. It was indeed remarkab

understanding what sacrifices our soldiers and their families pay to keep our country safe. Especially th

Kargil Town


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memorial is build just beneath the strategically important mountain heights TOLOLING where PakistaIntruders had occupied with their bunkers on it. A fierce battle was fought by Indian soldiers to smoothe

wicked designs of the enemy, in one of the most treacherous terrain on the earth. The enemy w

disgracefully evicted by 26th July 99. Overall this memorial is testimony of unparalleled courage an

scarifies made by Indian soldiers while restoring IZZAT of our mother land.

With heady mixture of emotions we went to Tiger Hill cafeteria which is based inside the main compoun

itself. Time then was around 12pm and Vasanth had still not reached the place. Anticipating that, Vasantwould join us in a while, we just grabbed our plates at cafeteria. Army here makes the yummy food for a

tourists and for us it was Rjama Chaval and hot hot Samosa, I loved it while I was watching the snow cappeTiger Hills which is the highest peak in this area and was the subject of most famous battling during Karg

War.


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We were restless waiting for Vasanth and imagining how much time he would take to finish off the samprocess starting from Vijay Path to Cafeteria. For a good 20 min. we sat outside the compound wall ju

wondering what would be the reason for his delay. To keep our temper cool, there was one Sardar Soldi

with whom we interacted to know about the place and especially about the WAR. Amid we stooped couple

vehicles passing by, to ask if they had seen any guy with Black color Bull. Everyone confirmed that they sa

someone off the bullet around 20km behind, and was doing some repair holding spokes and front whee

WTF

Sudhir and Karthik had to unload the luggage from their bike and go back searching for Vasanth. Un

their return I was sitting on my bull at parking space guarding the luggage, Of course without any weapoThey all retuned after 45 minutes, and I was shocked looking at Vasanths bike as he had met with

accident by ramming in to running truck by side. Luckily he was left with no major injuries and bike also w

somehow in running condition after much of repair by him.

We stated our journey again after Vasanth finished his lunch and a quick visit to Memorial. Along the w

we set our speeds at 30km tailing Vasanth from behind. I was apprehensive that how long he may ride th

way? Next stop was Drass, the second coldest inhabited place on earth with a lowest recorded temperatur

of bone chilling -60 degree centigrade. But it didnt felt much of cold compare to Leh.

After a tea break we started to Zoji-la It is the second highest pass after Fotu-la on western sectioof Himalayan mountain range. This provides a vital road link to Ladakh from Kashmir other than Rhotang Pa

from Himachal Pradesh. Here the clouds hanging over the Zoji-la indicated that it would not be smoo

sailing anymore. By the time we reached the top already there were drizzling rains and roads were in wor

shape further ascending from the top of Zoji-La.

For a moment I was confused with the Zoji-la point, as a by passer soldier told me that I had alread

crossed Zoji-la but I had not experienced any thrilling in riding on edge of narrow mountains which I sa

while I was goggling at home. My expression to solider made every one laugh loudly as I said disappointing

Kya Bhaichutttt, vo tha Zoji-la !!!

Actually the pass is about 9km and it runs at an elevation of 11575 fts. And further downhill the reZoji-la moment comes. The last few kilometers downhill roads were very steep and narrow indeed. Sometim

riding on edge of the left was daring while more than one truck would run over trying to overtake each othe

Very bad driving sense of these truck drives, would take lives of anyone unlucky out there. Sun set sight

the Zoji-la decent and beneath Sonamarg valley indeed was very refreshing. We could see Amarnath bas

camp at Sonamarg where thousands of pilgrims were tenting.


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After decent we entered Sonamarg Valley around 7.30pm, which gave me a feeling of Kashmir valle

starting hereafter. Also the presence of soldiers every 200mtrs or so reminded me that we are in Kashmir

could notice dramatic changes in mountain terrain with huge valleys of lush green and a river following by tvalley all along. A tea break at Dhaba was good refreshment for my camera also.

Zoji La descent

Sonamarg Valley


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While chatting there, Vasanth wanted to stay in Sonamarg and enjoy the next day ride to Srinagar in d

light, whereas I wanted to reach Srinagar so that we can start exploring the Srinagar early on the day. W

were ignorant of the fact that finding hotel in valley could not be easy because of Amarnath Yatra. Mothan an hour of search for the hotel was hopeless and finally we had to stay in tented accommodatioIncidentally, in the process of choosing hotel/tent I become separatist, where I wanted comfort zone wit

space, light etc. On other hand everyone else wanted low cost tent, rather just some space to lean oveEventually I had to adapt to the team decision, though it was quite bizarre to sleep in the tent we h

chosen. I disliked because of tiny size of the tent, ground was soaked with water everywhere, chilly weatheand an awkward mobile toilets. I was biased and went into to depression!!

Sun set @ Sonamarg Valley


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Day17: 10th July 11 (Sonamarg Srinagar)

All through the previous night, I was sleeping with my riding gears as it is. The first priority for the dwas to ride to Srinagar. Road further was in good shape; however we came across huge Yatra traffic goi

towards Amarnath Base camp. Just 80kms on the highway, we were in Srinagar by 11am and the first thinwe did was to hire a house boat at Dal Lake as the place is popularly knows as city if lakes. Dal Lake which

divided into 4 parts namely Gagribal, Lokut Dal, Bod Dal and Nagin. And we chose Nagin for our stay as it wrelatively less crowded and it is the most beautiful of Dal lakes.

The temperature at this time was cool to pleasant. The plan for the day was jus to relax watching beautof Dal Lake. Houseboat provided luxurious and comfortable accommodation with all modern amenities in t

rooms on board. There were day rest beds in front from where we could view the vast expanse of the La

while relaxing on the beds or by arranging chairs on the deck to get panoramic views of the lake while sippi

a cup of tea.

Unfortunately on this Sunday most of the city was closed, though the city was crowded with arm

vehicles and personnel!. Wherever we stop, soldiers came to us, in part due to their duty and in part due t

the fact they wanted to chat with us. In fact at one point outside Mughal Darbar hotel, at least a doz

soldiers came to chat with us, since they were from Karnataka. After heavy Kashmiri lunch with Kahwah

Mughal Darbar, we were back to boat. And a nice sleep till 6 pm was really necessary. Later in the evening wdecide on to make small celebration while setting on the deck and watching Shikaras in Dal Lake and takin

pictures of night sight with fully illuminated boats.


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Day18: 11th July 11 (Srinagar Patankhot)

This day, though we started late there was seriousness among everyone and we were determent to reacPatankhot which is 362km crossing Udhampur in Jammu. However this determination lasted only fe

kilometers outside Srinagar city where Vasanth met with accident again!! And this time it was major injury him and little to the bike.

There was huge traffic with tourist heading to valleys outside the city and the multiaxial trucks. Wherat one point Vasanth made wrong decision to over take a truck on the left side, totally off the road an

toppled over due to high road surface, while trying to get back on to the road. It was panic situatidramatically, and luckily many localities gathered and helped us to move him to near by factory occupation

center.

Thanks to riding gears again, without which we would possibly ended-up our journey abruptly. In thincident Vasanths ankle was twisted and survived an airline fracture. After an hour of rest at occupation

center, doctor advised him to put on the shoes and kick start the bike. So far I have written enough aboVasanth throughout this log, really he is tough guy. Despite the fact that his left leg was seriously hurt, h

had that determination to continue riding with us.

After riding for couple of kilometers we stopped at Dhaba to have breakfast. Where we discussed wh

we were about to do, and thought to only continue after Udhampur if we reach early. Mood from the mornicontinued and everyone were serious in a serious mood. The roads were starting to get interesting, but th

army convoys and rest of the traffic was making progress slow. However, at one point soldiers got impresse

looking at bikes and allowed Vasanth and Me to follow them. After spending for about 30 minutes overtakin

the traffic, we caught up with Sudhir and Karthik at some Dhaba.

After the tea break, ride through Jawar Tunnel, perhaps the 3km longest tunnel in India was greexperience. Roads further were never ending decent for more than 200 km along the view of Karakora

Range of mountains and Pine forest of Patnitop. Sudhir and Karthik were riding full on; however I chose tail Vasanth as he was wounded. Many times Vasanth would ask me for a stop or to go ahead. I knew that,

he takes a break he would further delay or may invite some new problem all together. I chased Vasanth fmore than 100km until we were finished with ghat section and met Sudhir and Karthik.

By around 7.30pm we reached Udhampur and it was here all of us decided to make an overnight stay. No

there was some serious thinking going on, we were 135kms away from Pathankot and around 695kms awa

from Delhi. Karthik and Vasanth were planning to hit Delhi somehow until next day evening, whereas I an

Sudhir were quite not sure about reaching Delhi.


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Day19: 12th July 11 (Udhampur Delhi)

First day on our entire trip, we kick started our bikes at 7am. Every one loaded their luggage hoping thait would be for one last time. Especially Karthik was very firm on reaching Delhi. The roads in Punjab a

quite well maintained though they were single lane highways.

We reached Pathankot by 9am and there we stopped for breakfast. Here the pepper spry episod

revolved again. Though I was not carrying spry after Kargil incident, I had to wear same Jeans as I was lefwith only spare to use in Delhi. After Udhampur, temperatures would start rising and it was blazing hot

Pathankot were my Jeans started burning with pepper spray on it and I could not resist anymore wearing thsame Jeans. I had to change the same while sitting in Dhaba hiding under the table! lol.

By 10am we started our journey further and for the next hour or so we were riding together. But

some point during the ride, the four of us got split into groups of two, with Vasanth and Sudhir riding witme. And Karthik was ripping on highways aiming to reach Delhi by night. Riding in extremely hot weather w

getting harder and now I was feeling sleepy after good breakfast and lassi. I was trying my best to staawake and for the most part that meant frequent breaks. Just as well, since I was starting to have painin

back and ass due to riding for such a long time.

While I and Sudhir were sure of staying over night in Ambala, Vasanth was in fickle mind weather to b

with us or to chase Karthik and reach Delhi. Vasanth had strong willpower, though his health conditions wernot well after series of fall. By the way, Vasanth had serious argument over definition of fall. According

Vasanth he never fell in entire trip. Because he said Fall is something which happens when the bike is

movement, fair enough agreed. But as per him in all the incidents he had already applied breaks and stoppe

the bike, so he never fell. We lost the argument. Vasanth is genius I say

By 3 oclock Karthik was almost 100+ km distant from us and he confirmed his plan to hit Delhi. I aSudhir were utterly tired by riding in such a humid and blazing weather. We would take break for every 2

km to buy pulpy orange juice, though dehydration persisted all through. Seriously I never felt this hardshwhile riding in Himalayan range, this is ironical but true. Just before the rupnagar, again we got split again

to two wherein Vasanth was riding through Chandigarh chasing Karthik, and I and Sudhir were riding vKhanna which is supposed to be the short cut to reach Ambala. Amid while on the tea break finally Vasan

confirmed his plan to be along with us.

Though we reached Ambala early i.e. around 7:30 pm, we could not figure out the hotel were we ha

stayed earlier on onward journey. That was the only hotel which had adequate parking space; but we did no

remember the hotel name. All we knew was that, hotel name starts with lovely I even made a call to ju

dial and we simply spent more than 45 minutes rooming around the city to spot sign board starting wi

lovely.


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At 9:00pm Vasanth made a call from STD upon reaching Ambala, by the time we were just about to chein at a hotel adjacent to Lovely whereas Vasanth had gone directly to lovely hoping that we would ha

checked in. In fact today also I dont remember correct hotel name.!! This day we covered 489kms and it w

considerably the best performance after being riding since past 17days. I would have ripped another 220+

reach Delhi but night vision was the one thing I do not wanted to take risk in any rides.

I can not imagine, due to unbearable weather (47 deg), I and Sudhir had whole lot of rashes on the bodOur energy level was so low, we decided to make food order and unfortunately room boy got us some brea

pieces as that was the only food available at that time. Totally it was another testing day and as usual we ha

to adapt to the situation. I was very happy for Karthik, he reached Delhi by 1:00 am and he lived up to hdetermination. I admit that he was The Best Rider among us, not only for the fact that he reached Del

but even otherwise he would ride like bulletier.

Day20: 13th July 11 (Ambala Delhi)

Everyday is new day, this day I felt like totally new. There was a sense of achievement in the air; som

thing that was thought about was coming true. We covered distance at a good pace though we gave a stofor every 50 kms and by 12oclock we were in Delhi.

Our Mission Ladakh had finally come to an end, having covered 3090kms in 18days, across 4 state

Covering 11 high altitude mountain passes, visiting the most beautiful places in the world.

This trip went far better then I had expected it to be, we all demonstrated good team spirit and my bi

also performed exceptionally well. She returned me an excellent mileage of 31kmpl.

In fact the whole trip expenditure including petrol/food/accommodation etc was Rs. 45000, not bad f

an 18day trip to heaven..

Final words..

It is very important to dream and a dream can be realistic only when YOU create an opportunit

Especially this trip for me changed a lot in terms of attitude. In essence, a can do attitude, high level o

adaptability, fearlessness. I pledge that, life will change when you cross the finishing line, may it be ridin

"mission ladakh" - my travel log

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