SKINPERF LWGSkin resurfacing action ‐ AHAs Performance

SKINPERF LWGAHAs PERFORMANCE WITHOUT IRRITATIONS

WHAT IT IS

New tool for Corneotherapy, SKINPERF LWG is a green biomaterial forming a lamellar gel which behaves like an intracutaneousreservoir of AHAs.

WHAT IT IS DEVELOPED TO DO

SKINPERF LWG was designed to diffuse AHAs in a progressive and controlled way while avoiding inflammation. Exfoliationperformance equals conventional AHAs within 2 weeks. After 4 weeks treatment, the skin is brighter, pigmentation spots,blackheads and acne scars disappear without any stinging sensation.

HOW TO USE

Dispersible gel to use at 2% in:• Resurfacing serum• Smoothing glow cream• Anti‐blemishes treatments• Acne/blackheads gel

COMPOSITION

Water (and) glycolic acid (and) lactic acid (and) sodium magnesium silicate (and) citric acid (and) xanthan gum.28% AHAs (15% glycolic / 7% lactic / 6% citric acid)

LWG technology delivers a progressive and controled diffusion of AHAs into the skin. It allows working with lower % of AHAswhile maintaining an exfoliating performance similar to classical AHAs treatments.

EX‐VIVO BENEFITS

• Exfoliating action: +50%* versus 59%* with treatment AHAs 8%• Weak inflammation: 15% versus 68%*** with treatment AHAs 8%• Performance Index: 3.33 versus 0.86% with treatment AHAs 8%

IN‐VIVO BENEFITS

• 100% cellular exfoliation in less than 2 weeks***• Skin velvety: +20%***• Skin bright: +31%***• Skin uniformity: +15%***• Acne scars: ‐8%**• Pigmentation spots: ‐11%***• Number of blackheads: ‐43%***• No impact on skin pH• Irritation scorage: grade 0.5/10

SKIN PERFECTIONISTS

In the search for Perfect Skin,AHAs are still one of the

mainstays. Their only problemis the fairly frequent irritation

or cutaneous burns they cause.

STRATUM CORNEUM

AHAs weaken the cohesion ofthe stratum corneum to

increase desquamation and inthe same way accelerate

cellular renewal. But if theexfoliating treatment is too

aggressive, corneocytes initiateinflammatory answer.

CORNEOTHERAPY

OUTSIDE‐IN‐THERAPYDESCRIBES NEW MODELS OF

RELEASING AN ACTIVE TOIMPROVE ITS DIFFUSION IN A

PROGRESSIVE ANDCONTROLLED WAY INTO THE

SKIN.

THE CONCEPTTHE

BIOLOGICALANSWER

THE CUTANEOUS TARGET

SKINPERF LWG IS A UNIQUE DELIVERY TECHNOLOGY OF AHAs THAT ANSWERS THE CONCEPT OF SKIN PERFECTIONISTS

CORNEOTHERAPY & OUTSIDE‐IN‐THERAPY

Corneotherapy is a science which was largelydeveloped by Dr Albert Kligman. It is the linkbetween cosmetics and dermatology and mayrepresent the “skin care concept of the future”.

Exfoliation techniques are of course part of thissince their prime target is the stratum corneum.Kligman designed a treatment centred onrenovation of the corneal layer to correct theentire skin which he called “outside‐in therapy”.

OUTSIDE‐IN‐THERAPY ALSO DESCRIBES NEWMODELS OF RELEASING AN ACTIVE TOIMPROVE ITS DIFFUSION IN A PROGRESSIVEAND CONTROLLED WAY INTO THE SKIN.SKINPERF LWG WAS DEVELOPED ON THEBASIS OF THIS MODEL OF CUTANEOUSTHERAPY.

SKINPERF LWGNEW AHAs OUTSIDE‐IN‐THERAPY

SKINPERF LWG (Lamellar Water Gel) was designed to diffuse AHAs in aprogressive and controlled way into the skin.

This is a completely new way of releasing AHAs. Indeed, LWG technologyallows working with low quantities of AHAs able to equal the performanceof conventional AHAs treatment while avoiding the problems of burns andinflammation.

It consists of:‐ A biomaterial developed using green chemistry, forming a lamellar gel whichbehaves like an intra‐cutaneous reservoir of AHAs.‐ A synergy of alpha‐hydroxy acids: 15% glycolic, 7% lactic and 6% citric acidsadsorbed onto the lamellar biomaterial.

THIS NEW SYSTEM MEANS THAT LOW CONCENTRATIONS OF AHAs CANBE USED WHILE MAINTAINING ITS EXFOLIATING PERFORMANCE.

BENEFITS OF SKINPERF LWG FOR OUTSIDE‐IN‐THERAPY?A PROGRESSIVE AND CONTROLLED DIFFUSION OF AHAs

Lamellar Water Gel (LWG) technology has been compared to a conventionalCarboxy Methyl Cellulose (CMC) gel. Both structures contain 28% AHAs. Theywere deposited on the surface of an agarose gel in which AHAs diffusion ismeasured thanks to infrared spectroscopy.

The kinetics of AHAs diffusion show a stationary step (diffusion equilibrium)reached after:‐ 5h 25 min for the CMC technology.‐ 9h 12 min for the LWG technology.This means that the AHAs are released 2 times more slowly with LWGtechnology but also in a more progressive and continuous manner.

WE CAN THEREFORE EXPECT 2 TYPES OF BENEFITS WITH LWGTECHNOLOGY:‐ EXTENDED CONTACT TIME GIVING HIGH PERFORMANCE EXFOLIATIONOF THE SKIN.‐ A MORE PROGRESSIVE SUPPLY OF AHAs WHICH IS THEREFORE LESSAGGRESSIVE FOR THE SKIN.

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EVALUATION OF AHAs PERFORMANCETHROUGH THE DEFINITION OF A PERFORMANCE INDEX

AHAs are characterized by two major properties.‐ Exfoliation‐ Inflammation

It is important to maintain a balance between both effects. Indeed, acocktail of AHAs cannot be used for powerful exfoliation if it is going togenerate severe irritation or even burns.The Performance Index (PI) defined by our laboratories is inspired by thetherapeutic index previously developed by Dr Smith in 1994 (1). The PI ofan AHA or combination of AHAs is the ratio of its exfoliating performanceto the inflammation it generates.

A PI GREATER THAN 1 IS CHARACTERISTIC OF A GOOD EXFOLIATIONWITH A MINIMUM OF INFLAMMATION.

PERFORMANCE INDEX OF SKINPERF LWGCOMPARED TO CONVENTIONAL AHAs TREATMENTS

The PI of a formulation containing 2% SKINPERF LWG was calculated andcompared to formulations containing 8% and 15% AHAs. The exfoliatingaction of the three formulations was evaluated by stripping and countingscale (exfoliation) while the level of inflammation was evaluated byassaying the inflammation mediator COX2.

Only SKINPERF LWG has a PI > 1, characteristic of a good exfoliation withoutirritation.

The lack of inflammation is explained by a very low concentration of AHAsin the SKINPERF LWG formulation. Nevertheless the following studies showthat even though its AHAs concentration is lower, its exfoliating propertiesare as effective as the 8% and 15% AHAs formulations.

THE PROGRESSIVE AND CONTINUOUS DIFFUSION GENERATED BY LWGTECHNOLOGY MEANS THAT LOWER AHAs CONCENTRATIONS CAN BEUSED LEADING TO LESS INFLAMMATION WHILE MAINTAINING ANEFFECTIVE LEVEL OF SKIN RENEWAL.

Performance Index PI

% exfoliation% inflammatory mediator

CREAM AHAs‐15

15% AHAs

Performance Index0.91

CREAM AHAs‐8

8% AHAs

Performance Index0.86

CREAMSKINPERF LWG 2%

0,56% AHAs

Performance Index3.33

EX‐VIVO TESTEXFOLIATION PERFORMANCE OF SKINPERF LWG COMPARED TO CONVENTIONAL AHAs TREATMENTS

Protocol: Human skin explants (39 year old donor). Application of preparationsat D0, D1 and D2. Analysis of desquamating effectiveness at D5 by strippingand counting of scales obtained on the strip.

Exfoliation performance of AHAs treatments is evaluated through the numberand aspect of scales obtained by stripping after AHAs treatment.

TWO PARAMETERS ARE ANALYSED1‐ The number of scales (% variation versus untreated explant).2‐ The heterogeneity index of the scales: indeed, treatment which is tooaggressive causes deep desquamation and eliminates a clump of epidermalcells. This phenomenon is visible on the strips with the AHAs 8 and 15 creams.The exfoliation then damages the cohesion of the skin below the stratumcorneum and may be accompanied by burns.

ONLY SKINPERF LWG PROVIDES BOTH SIGNIFICANT AND UNIFORMEXFOLIATION CHARACTERISTIC OF A GOOD DESQUAMATION, LESSAGGRESSIVE THAN THOSE OBTAINED WITH AHAs 8 AND AHAs 15FORMULATIONS.

EX‐VIVO TESTEFFECT OF SKINPERF LWG ON SKIN INFLAMMATIONCOMPARED TO CONVENTIONAL AHAs TREATMENTS

Protocol: Human skin explants (39 year old donor). Application of preparationsat D0, D1 and D2 after stripping. Analysis of inflammation‐inducing effect byquantification of COX2 (purple pink) by immunohistochemistry.

The quantification of the enzyme COX2 (green band), responsible for theproduction of Prostaglandin mediators, is first performed in the epidermis (seeopposite pictures).An additional analysis showed that the 8% and 15% AHAs formulations alsocaused significant inflammation of the dermis. The data is characteristic of anaggressive action.

WHILE SKINPERF LWG DOES NOT GENERATE ANY SIGNIFICANTINFLAMMATION, THE AHAs 8 AND 15 FORMULATIONS ACTIVATE ASIGNIFICANT AND HIGH INFLAMMATORY RESPONSE OF MORE THAN 60%.THESE RESULTS CORRELATE WITH THE AGGRESSIVENESS OF THEIREXFOLIATING ACTION PREVIOUSLY OBSERVED.

CREAMSKINPERF 2%(0.56% AHAs)

CREAM AHAs‐8

(8% AHAs)

CREAM AHAs‐15

(15% AHAs)

Number ofscales+50%*

HeterogeneityIndex487

Number ofscales+59%

HeterogeneityIndex956

Number ofscales+75%*

HeterogeneityIndex

1181**

CREAM SKINPERF 2%(0.56% AHAs)Good epidermalcohesion.15% inflammation

CREAM AHAs‐8(8% AHAs)Damaged cohesion68%***inflammation

CREAM AHAs‐15(15% AHAs)Damaged cohesion82%***inflammation

IN‐VIVO TESTEFFECT OF SKINPERF LWG ON SKIN EXFOLIATION

ProtocolCream containing SKINPERF LWG at 2%Twice daily applications on the forearm for 14 days17 volunteers aged 21 to 50.

Analytical Method: On D0, skin is colored with DHA. Skin pigmentation isthen measured using chromametry. Skin depigmentation is directly linkedto the rate of cellular exfoliation.

DUE TO ITS EXFOLIATING PERFORMANCE SKINPERF LWG LEADS TOTOTAL CELLULAR EXFOLIATION IN LESS THAN 2 WEEKS.

After 3 days use, the exfoliation level obtained with SKINPERF LWG issignificantly 3 TIMES HIGHER than the exfoliation obtained on untreatedskin.

IN‐VIVO TESTEVALUATION OF THE ABSENCE OF IRRITANT EFFECTS

ProtocolCream containing SKINPERF LWG at 2%Twice daily applications for 28 days on the whole face.24 volunteers aged 34 to 64.Sensory evaluation by the volunteers on a structured scale of 1 to 10.

The cumulative evaluation of 3 irritation parameters reached a maximumscore of 0.5 points on a scale of 0 to 10.USE OF SKINPERF LWG TWICE A DAY DOES NOT LEAD TO REDNESS ORFEELINGS OF HEATING OR STINGING WHICH ARE USUALLY NOTED WITHCLASSICAL AHAs TREATMENTS.

A complementary study has demonstrated that by opposition toformulation with 8 or 15% AHAs, SKINPERF LWG does not impact at all skinpH demonstrating the benefits of the LWG technology for the naturalphysiological barrier of the skin.

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IN‐VIVO TESTPERFECTING EFFECT OF SKINPERF LWG ON SKIN BRIGHT & IMPERFECTIONS

ProtocolCream containing SKINPERF LWG at 2%Twice daily applications for 28 days on the whole face.24 volunteers aged 34 to 64.

Analytical MethodScarring blemishes: clinician scorage on a structured scale of 0 to 10.Blackheads: counted by a clinician ‐ Skin bright: sensory evaluation by a juryof 5 persons on a nonstructured scale of 0 to 15.

SKINPERF LWG IMPROVES SKIN COMPLEXION WITHIN 14 DAYSThe action of SKINPERF LWG on cellular renewal leads to a visibleimprovement in skin quality.

‐ More velvety skin grain: +20%*** on average‐ More luminous skin tone: +31%*** on average‐ More uniform skin tone: +15%*** on average

SKINPERF LWG provides a resurfacing effect on the skin within 2 weeks.

SKINPERF LWG DIMINISHES BLEMISHES AFTER 28 DAYSThe action of SKINPERF LWG on cellular renewal is also accompanied bya significant reduction in cutaneous blemishes after 4 weeks treatment.‐ Acne scars: ‐8%** on average‐ Pigmentation spots: ‐11%*** on average‐ Number of blackheads: ‐43%*** on average

SKINPERF LWG removes cutaneous blemishes and refines skin grain.

IN‐VIVO TESTVISUALISATION OF THE EFFECT OF SKINPERF LWG ON ACNE SCARS

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DO D14 D28

FORMULATION GUIDELINE HD PERFECT CREAMThis cream has been formulated with SKINPERF LWG and AROLEAT SAMPHIRA: retinoid like vegetable oil that smoothensskin relief and treats crow’s feet wrinkles.

(1) IMCD, (2) AMI, (3) Quimdis, (4) Laserson, (5) Quimasso, (6) Seppic, (7) CODIF Recherche et Nature, (8) Parfex, (9) Brenntag

Protocol :Warm A up to 75°C. Just before the emulsion add B in the oily phase (A). Warm C up to 75°C. Disperse Sepiplus 400 undermulsifier 1500 rpm for 10 min. Realize the emulsion by slowly introducing the oily phase (A+B) in the aqueous phase (C+D)under emulsifier 2500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool down to 35°C under agitation. Add the pre‐mix E. Add F and G. Add theStructure XL Starch under emulsifier 2500 rpm for 15 minutes.

Phase Raw material / Trade name INCI name %

A

NIKKOMULESE LC (1) Behenyl Alcohol & Stearyl Alcohol & PEG‐20 Phytosterol & Cetyl Alcohol & Phytosterols & Glyceryl Stearate & Hydrogenated Lecithin & Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Tocopherol 5

CRODAMOL GTCC / MIGLYOL 812 / WAGLINOL (2) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2

SILICONE (DIMETHICONE (100CS)) (3) Dimethicone 0,5

PHENOXYETHANOL (4) Phenoxyethanol 0,8

ARLAMOL HD (5) Isohexadecane 3

LANOL 99 (6) Isononyl Isononanoate 4

LANETTE O (2) Cetearyl Alcohol 2

ALCOOL CETYLIQUE / LANETTE 16 (2) Cetyl Alcohol 1

B AROLEAT SAMPHIRA (7) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil &Crithmum Maritimum & Benzyl Alcohol & Limonene 1

CDEMINERALISED WATER Aqua 64.918

ELESTAB CPN (2) Chlorphenesin 0.27

D SEPIPLUS 400 (6) Polyacrylate‐13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20 & SorbitanIsostearate & Aqua 0.15

EDEMINERALISED WATER Aqua 10

SKINPERF LWG (7) Aqua & Glycolic Acid & Lactic Acid & Sodium Magnesium Silicate & Citric Acid & Xanthan Gum 2

F PARFUM FLEUR D EAU R21886 (8) Parfum 0,1

G SOUDE (SOLUTION 5 N) (9) Aqua & Sodium Hydroxide 0,262

H STRUCTURE XL STARCH (5) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate & Aqua 3

BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES

(1) Smith WP; Hydroxy acids and skin aging. Cosmetic & Toiletries 109 (9) 41‐44, 46‐48 (1994)

SKINPERF LWG: RESURFACING ACTION, AHAS PERFORMANCE

COSMETIC ACTIVITY

• Exfoliating action: +50%* versus 59%* with treatment AHAs 8%• Weak inflammation: 15% versus 68%*** with treatment AHAs 8%• Performance Index: 3.33 versus 0.86% with treatment AHAs 8%

IN‐VIVO BENEFITS

• 100% cellular exfoliation in less than 2 weeks***• Skin velvety: +20%***• Skin bright: +31%***• Skin uniformity: +15%***• Acne scars: ‐8%**• Pigmentation spots: ‐11%***• Number of blackheads: ‐43%***• No impact on skin pH• Irritation scorage: grade 0.5/10

INCI NAME:

Water (and) glycolic acid (and) lactic acid (and) sodium magnesium (and) citric acid (and) xanthan gum.

RECOMMENDED % OF USE: 2%

CHARACTERISTICS: dispersible gel

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