“What’s Growing On...”

RUTGERS COOPERATIVE EXTENSION

ON THE RADIO

For agriculture news and horticultural tips, listen to me, Pam Burton, on the RCE Agricultural Program on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday on SNJ To-day 99.9 FM announcing local workshops, seminars, and horticultural tips.

Volume 21 Number 2 Summer 2018 Edition Published Quarterly

Cooperative Extension of Cumberland County

Extension Education Center Phone: 856-451-2800

291 Morton Avenue Fax: 856-451-4206

Millville, NJ 08332-9791

www.njaes.rutgers.edu/extension

Pam’s Garden Gab Summer 2018

Once again, we are pleased to facilitate the two-day Monarch Teacher Network program at the Extension Education Center on August 20 and 21 for a reasonable cost of only $99.00. Details are in the enclosed brochure. The Pollinator Garden Team was paid one of the highest compliments they could receive in 2016 when the Monarch Teacher Network Team commented on how well-planned and thought-out our Pollinator Garden is for the various pollinators. As they stood in the milkweed patch, a momma monarch fluttered in ever so gently, landing on the leaf of the milkweed and deposited her egg. We could not have staged that any better and certainly cannot guarantee the same to happen this year! But, we can guarantee that if you take these two days out of your busy schedule you will have unique one-on-one moments with monarchs that you will never forget.

The name Monarch Teacher Network is a bit of a misnomer as this is open to everyone, not just teachers, so feel free to enroll. In this “train the trainer” setting, you will have the chance to become the teacher of monarchs and become part of the stewardship of these beautiful creatures and their legacy.

And so it goes,

Pam Burton

Cooperative Extension of Cumberland County

1915-2018

Rutgers on the Radio 1

Pam’s Garden Gab 1

Congrats Graduates! 2

American Linden 2

A Case of Mistaken

Identity? 2

Vintage Garden Tools

Repurposed 3

Green Knight Newsletter 3

Soil Sample Update 3

Fall Foods 4

NJ Tree Shrub 4

Tuna & Penne Recipe 4

Hollyhock Rocks 5

Turf Talk 7

Calendar of Events 7

Disease Diagnostics 8

Pass Along Plants 9

Pinching 10

How does your garden

grow? 11

Creatures & Critters 12, 13

Gardening Tips for June 14

Gardening Tips for July 15

Gardening Tips for August 16

Available Fact Sheets 17

Inside this issue:

Rutgers Cooperative Extension 100 Years of Service in Cumberland County

Attachments:

Monarch Butterflies Workshop

Page 2 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Congrats Graduates!

Rutgers Master Gardeners of Cumberland County does it again, with a graduation luncheon

on June 26 for the 9 graduating interns in 2018. The interns completed 60 hours of classes and

training in a variety of horticulture and agriculture related topics, including

several tours off-site. Each intern will complete 60 hours of volunteer ser-

vice within the next 18 months to obtain the role of Certified Master Gar-

dener. There are a number of projects in which they can obtain their vol-

unteer service, including speakers bureau, horticulture enrichment, Eco

Fair and various Butterfly Tent events. Rutgers Cooperative Extension

says congratulations to the interns and thank you for your commitment to

volunteerism.

American Linden

As its’ name implies the American Linden Tree, Tilia Americana, is native to North America

and is known for its’ adaptability to tolerate some clay in the soil, a wide range of pH and some

shade. It has a pliable fibrous inner bark which early settlers used as fiber for ropes, cords, mats

and nets. The beautiful white wood is good for carving and members of the Iroquois tribe would

carve out their ceremonial masks on living trees, then cut them off and hollow

out the backs. The fragrant white flowers are attractive to bees and linden

serves as an important source of honey, considered to be some of the best in

the world.

http://www.uky.edu/hort/American-Linden

http://nfs.unl.edu/CommunityForestry/Trees/AmLinden.pdf

A case of mistaken identity?

A client said she saw something in a nursery that looked like a boxwood but was labelled as

a Japanese Holly and questioned if that was possible. Yes, it is. Actually Japanese Hollies look

more similar to boxwood than American or English hollies. They are an evergreen perennial which

have leaves that are reminiscent of boxwood, but with distinct differences if you look closely. The

leaves of a Japanese holly are serrated and alternate, whereas the boxwood

leaves are not serrated and are opposite. Japanese hollies could be a good

alternate for boxwood with less insect and disease concerns.

http://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/buxus-sempervirens

“WHAT’S GROWING ON…” Page 3

Green Knight Newsletter

Pat Rector and Sal Mangiafico, Rutgers Cooperative Extension Environmental and Resource Manage-

ment Agents, are co-editors of The Green Knight Newsletter which provides News of Environmental and Re-

source Management Issues and Events from throughout New Jersey.

View the newsletter online @: http://salem.njaes.rutgers.edu/greenknight/

To receive an electronic copy only (one email per month please) email: mangiafico@njaes.rutgers.edu

For the latest events, visit the news and events blog: http://greenknightnewsletter.tumblr.com/

IMPORTANT UPDATE on Soil Samples: Effective Immediately: The cost of a soil test kit remains $20.00. However,

due to rising postage costs, you will now be given the option at the time of

purchase to

pay an additional $7.00 s/h for RCE to mail the kit or

you may elect to mail the sample to the lab yourself.

For more info on soil samples: FS 797, Soil Testing for Home Lawns and

Gardens

Vintage Garden Tools Repurposed

Many gardeners tend to be thrifty people as well, and really don’t want to throw out

that old rusty garden tool even when they’ve bought the new and shiny greatest and latest.

How do you re-purpose your old vintage garden tools? A spent hose can be used for a

wreath form with a few vintage tools tucked inside. Take three of your taller tools, put the

handles down and use some wood laths to nail

them together and create a very cool trellis.

An upside down head of a steel rake can be

used to hang items from, including hand tools.

Old colorful faucet handles can be fashioned

into fun and colorful hooks for your garden

shed. Use an old oil filter as a creative planter,

but be sure to line it first!

“WHAT’S GROWING ON…” Page 4

Fall Foods

Don’t miss your opportunity for wonderful food options with the fall growing season. Rutgers Fact Sheet 129,

Planning a Vegetable Garden, lists options like broccoli, swiss chard, endives, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuces,

mustard greens and radishes that can be planted in August to extend the growing season. For companion

planting tips, try the cole crops next to the perennial herbs of sage, peppermint and rosemary and plant lettuce

and radishes as companion plants near each other.

http://chemung.cce.cornell.edu/resources/companion-planting

New Jersey Tree Shrub

Ceanothus americanus derives its’ common name of the New Jersey Tea shrub

because the leaves were used as a tea substitute at the turn of the 17th century

and again during the American Civil War. You will find this native shrub in

“Liberty Tea Gardens” which feature tea plant substitutes used by the colonists

after dumping tea from ships into the Boston Harbor in a show of protest of tax-

ation. The New Jersey Tea bush is a small and compact (3’X3’) woody decidu-

ous shrub with showy fragrant white flowers that bloom in mid-summer. It en-

joys sandy loam soil with good drainage and likes full sun to light shade. The

flowers are known to attract hummingbirds and other pollinators.

http://wildflowers.jdcc.edu/Rhamnaceae.html

http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/liberty.html

http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/wildflower/completeWildflowerData.asp?id=12

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/native_plants_for_michigan_landscapes_shrubs

http://socialarchive.iath.virginia.edu/ark:/99166/w69s3w81

Summer Tuna Penne Salad

Ingredients

1 lb penne pasta

3 (4oz) cans of tuna

4 tablespoons of olive oil

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 small red onion chopped

2 tablespoons capers

1 whole roasted red pepper sliced and deseeded

1/8 teaspoon of salt and pepper

Directions

1) Cook pasta as per directions on box. Drain in colander and rinse quickly under cold water to cool. Drain

well. place into large bowl. Mix in the olive oil to coat the pasta. Let cool.

2) In another bowl add the lemon juice, parsley, the capers, roasted red pepper and celery. Season with salt

and pepper.

3) To the cooked pasta add the tuna and red onion. Carefully mix in the beans. With a slotted spoon mix in

the lemon juice mixture to coat the pasta. Let the pasta sit for at least 1/2 hour.

http://ifplantscouldtalk.rutgers.edu/recipes/?id=3

Page 5 Page 5 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Hollyhock Rocks!

Hollyhock rust appears as yellow spots on the surface of the leaves which quickly move to orange brown pustules on the undersides of the leaves and in severe cases, on the stems and green flower parts. The amount of humidity around the plants will directly impact the manage-ment of Hollyhock rust. The foliage needs the chance to dry off, so to help with that, plan ahead before you plant, leaving plenty of space between plants and good airflow. During the growing season water from below ear-ly in the day so the ground plant parts will dry. If you see any signs of rust, remove and destroy all parts of the plant that are showing any signs of rust once the plants are dry and remove all of the debris off of the prop-erty. Additionally, remove any mallow weed found in the vicinity. Common mallow is susceptible to rust and can serve as a source of infection for rust on hollyhocks. On the NJAES Rutgers website the NJ Weed Gallery offers a picture of Roundleaf Mallow, Malva neglecta, and notes “… Roundleafed mallow has slowly become a problem in lawn areas. It somewhat resembles ground ivy in that the leaves are round and scal-loped on the edges, but they are twice the size. It grows close to the ground, but doesn't vine out the way ground ivy does. The flower is a pale blue color…” Rutgers Fact Sheet 385, Broadleaf Weed Control in Cool Sea-son Turfgrasses, provides recommendations on control strategies of com-mon mallow in grass.

http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/1999/ln0325.pdf

https://njaes.rutgers.edu/weeds/weed.asp?roundleafmallow

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/hollyhockust.pdf

Page 6 Page 6 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Turf Talk

Seeding: Rutgers Fact Sheet 584, “Seeding Your Lawn”, recommends that in areas south of Trenton,

the primary establishment period for turfgrass is late summer into early fall, which is generally August 20th to

October 10th. The fall brings us cool evenings and moderate daytime temperatures providing ideal conditions

for turfgrass establishment. As a bonus many weeds, including crabgrass are not germinating during this time,

reducing the competition and allowing the grass to grow before winter.

Sedge: With the r ise of temperatures in August, you will begin to see the shoots emerge from the tubers

and rhizomes of sedge. One identifying feature that this is a sedge and not a grass is the triangular-shaped

stem. Rutgers Fact Sheet 543, Yellow Nutsedge Control in Landscaped Turf, notes that management practic-

es, including good drainage, are the first line of defense. Hand weeding is recommended for small outbreaks

and when that is no longer practical, you can turn to chemical control. However, this weed is a member of the

sedge family and applying annual grass weed or broadleaf weed products will not be effective. The free Fact

Sheet provides some chemical control options, and as always remember the label is the law!

Kyllinga: Another pest this time of the year for lawns is false green kyllinga which is a perennial sedge

species but is often mistaken for a grass. Kyllinga grows low to the ground by rhizomes in areas that are

poorly drained or frequently wet, such as over-irrigated lawns. We are seeing more of this in the Northeast,

but our southern friends have been dealing with this problem for a long time. It is highly recommended to

catch the problem early before it grows out of control into a large mat.

Per an article by Jim Murphy about Battling Green and False Kyllinga in New Jersey Turfs in the Au-

gust 2, 2013 Rutgers Plant & Pest Advisory one of the reasons that green kyllinga has become problematic is

that arsonate herbicides have been phased out, which were effective in controlling kyllinga. He goes on to ex-

plain that …”Preemergence (crabgrass) herbicides will not control established mats of kyllinga. And there

currently isn’t a commercially available postemergence herbicide that will provide excellent control of false

green kyllinga in cool-season turfgrass.” Bottom line…Control the kyllinga mats before they get large and call

a certified pesticide applicator to develop a well-coordinated long term program.

http://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/battling-green-and-false-kyllinga-in-new-jersey-turfs/

http://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/kyllinga-awakens-as-soil-temps-increase/

http://turfblog.rutgers.edu/?p=934

Mowing: While it may be tempting to cut your lawn shor ter especially in these hot summer days, Rut-

gers Fact Sheet 102 on “Your Lawn and Its Care” recommends a mowing height of 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches. Con-

tinuously cutting it shorter can lead to weaker turf, making it more susceptible to pests and stress. Keep in

mind the slogan of mow em high and let em lie. Meaning, it is recommended to return your clippings to the

lawn to recycle nutrients to the soil and grass and reduce waste.

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/july-lawn-tips

Page 7 Page 7 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

2018 Upcoming Calendar of Events June 5: Soils and Fertilizer, Michelle Infante-Casella, Agricultural

Agent, Gloucester Co., Extension Education Center, $20.00

Cancelled: June 21: Agritourism in Cumberland County

August 20 & 21: Monarch Teacher Network (see enclosed flyer)

September 15 & 16: Butterfly Tent at East Pt Lighthouse (Time: T/B/A)

September 29 & 30: Butterfly Tent, Education Station & Helpline On the Road at Green-

wich Artisan’s Fair; Sat 10 am – 5 pm; Sun 10 am – 4 pm

October 7: (tentative): Helpline on the Road at Wheatons Arts & Cultural Center Festival of Arts (Time: T/B/A)

October 9: Master Gardener Monthly Meeting at Extension Education Center with Speaker

(T/B/A); 10 am; Cost: $3.00 for public

November 13: Master Gardener Monthly Meeting at Extension Education Center with Speaker (T/B/A); 10 am; Cost $3.00 for public

November 24: (tentative) Helpline on the Road at Wheatons Arts & Cultural Center “ Open Arts” Sale (Time: T/B/A)

December 6: Annual Master Gardener Holiday Wreath Make & Take at Extension Education Center; 2 classes offered: 10 am and 6 pm

Japanese Stiltgrass: A client came in with a specimen which was identified as Japanese stiltgrass.

Rutgers Fact Sheet 1237, “Japanese Stiltgrass Control in the Home Lawn and Landscape”, indicates that

this invasive grass is believed to have been accidentally brought into the US as a packing material. It pre-

fers shady areas in moist soil that is regularly disturbed. The fact sheet offers several control methods of

stiltgrass in the landscaping beds and lawns including mechanical, cultural and both preemergent and

postemergent chemical controls.

Yellow Foxtail: A client brought in a weed sample which was identified as yellow foxtail, based on the

flat blades of the leaves that fanned out from the base of the plant. Additionally, there were some some

hairs near the ligules and there was a slight reddish tinge near the base of

the stem. It is extremely hard to identify grass-like weeds without the

seedhead for reference. Much to the client’s dismay this is best controlled

with pre-emergent and for now, he will have to pull it by hand or hoe.

https://njaes.rutgers.edu/weeds/weed.asp?yellowfoxtail

Turf Talk Cont.

Page 8 Page 8 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Disease Diagnostics

Botrytis Blight: A client brought in a specimen of her peony plant

and it was diagnosed as Botrytis Blight. Ann B. Gould, Ph.D., Specialist

in Plant Pathology wrote an article on Botrytis Blight of Peony and oth-

er Ornamental Plants in the 2009 Plant and Pest Advisory. Management

practices include moisture management, good sanitation, low relative

humidity, good air circulation, removal of affected plant parts and no

overhead watering. In the fall, cut the peony stalks at or below ground

level. In the spring, just as the shoots begin to emerge through the

ground, use a fungicide labeled for peonies where Botrytis blight has

been a problem in the past.

http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln061109.pdf

Fireblight: A client came in with a chanticleer pear and the leaves were drooping with

minimal dieback at the tips of the shoots. He was concerned that his pears had fireblight and

based on the symptoms we could tell him that the pears are not affected with fireblight. Fire-

blight presents with a yellow-amber liquid oozing from canker on the plants, the new tender

shoots develop a shepherd’s crook and the twigs and branches infected with fireblight die

quickly and appear scorched hence the name of fireblight. In this case for a definitive diagno-

sis the plant material may need to be sent to the Rutgers Diagnostics lab for a fee of $40.00.

https://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/fireblight-in-ornamental-rosaceae/

Galls: A client brought in a maple leaf that had very color ful galls on the surface.

These galls are caused by mites that feed on the lower surface of the leaves causing the

leaves to produce a pouch-like gall that encloses the mite. While the galls are not aes-

thetically pleasing and can even cause alarm since they are often bright red, the good

news is that these galls are not harmful to the health of the tree and chemical control is

not recommended.

http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/leaf-galls-maple

Crop Rotation: A client called in and repor ted that the leaves

of his pumpkin crop were, in his words, melting. After asking a

few questions, it was determined that he remembered that last

years’ he had problems with his pumpkin crop and he did plant

them in the same space this year which he described as heavy

soil. He also mentioned he did some overhead watering. Rutgers

Bulletin E310, “Diagnosing and Managing Important Cucurbit

Diseases in the Home Garden”, recommends crop rotation, well-

drained soil and no overhead watering. This client agreed that he

will keep this in mind for next year’s pumpkin patch.

Page 9 Page 9 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

The potential cost of “free” Pass-along Plants Most Master Gardeners are quite generous when it comes to sharing plants and I will

admit that’s how the gardens of native plants at my current home have been started. The

beauty of this is that I do think of my friends and family as I walk through my yard. A

catchy gardener name for these plants is “Pass-along plants” and they can be a blessing for

a gardener on a budget.

But – they do come with a word of warning, as the “cost” can be high if you are

passed along plants that are invasive or aggressive, since they will take up too much rent in

your yard, at a very fast pace. Do your research and “buyer” beware before you gleefully

plant something and live to regret it as your landscape is consumed and your home is the

next target in its’ path of destruction.

Desirable pass-alongs include plants that need dividing to encourage better blooming

and have had dieback in the middle. Once divided into two or more plants, these individual

plants can be re-planted or “passed along” to friends. Some examples are astilbes, most or-

namental grasses, irises, daylilies, Shasta daisies, ferns and hostas. Keep away from any

pass-along plants that have an aggressive root system such as bishop’s weed, Aegopodium

podagraria variegatum; ribbon grass, Phalaris arundinacea; chameleon plant,

Houttuynia cordata; and wormwood, Artemisia 'Powis Castle'.*

Some self-seeding plants can be considered in the acceptable column including: Si-

berian bugloss, Brunnera ; money plant, Lunaria; foxglove, Digitalis ; bearfoot hellebore,

Helleborus feotidus ; lenten rose, Helleborus orientalis; and rose campion, Lychnis coro-

naria. Beware of some self-seeders that can become invasive such as: purple loosestrife,

Lythrum salicaria ; morning glory, Ipomoea purpurea ; and fountain grass, Pennesitum

‘Moudry’.*

In summary, if the gifter doesn’t know what the pass-along plant is, and whether or

not it is aggressive or invasive, you might want to “pass” on the pass-along. The price may

not be right!

* Many thanks to Rutgers Master Gardeners of Ocean County

for the listing of plants used in this article! Please see: http://

ocean.njaes.rutgers.edu/documents/2013NovemberPass-

alongPlantsFinal.pdf

University of Nebraska; http://lancaster.unl.edu/hort/

articles/2005/aggressiveplants.shtml

The Ohio State University; http://hvp.osu.edu/pocketgardener/

source/description/ae_raria.html

“WHAT’S GROWING ON…” Page 10

When Pinching Doesn’t Hurt!

Chrysanthemums: If you planted perennial mums, after they are six inches tall begin

to pinch back about one-half inch to one inch from the tops of them every 4 weeks or so to

encourage them to branch out, become more compact and produce more flowers. Just like

pinching a cute kid's cheek, pinching is done with the thumb and forefinger. Unlike a cute

kid's cheek the new growth is removed. Remove the dominant bud to allow the side buds to

become more dominant and get more food and growth hormones. This practice may delay

the start of flowering but it will pay off with an extended blooming season. If you don’t

pinch them off, the mums will become leggy and unsightly.

https://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/2015/09/mums-the-word-6/

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/060427.html

New England Asters: One of the biggest concerns with the New England Aster is

the potential height which can reach 3 to 6 feet, depending on the variety. One way to

manage that is to pinch the asters back by as much as one half no later than early July.

If you’re looking for the height, then you can manage the floppiness by starting now

with a cylinder of chicken wire encircling the plant as a support making it slightly

smaller than the plant’s mature spread and height. Use bamboo stakes to secure it in the

ground and soon the new growth will work its’ way through the mesh and cover the

wire.

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/060427.html

https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/1995/5-19-1995/stake.html

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scened928.html

To Deadhead or Not?: The gardening term deadheading defines the process of removing the faded or

dead flowers which promotes new growth & reflowering by directing the energy of the plant is back to root

and vegetative growth. Spent or dying dead flowers are removed from plants by pinching them manually or

with hand shears before they begin to produce seeds. This process is done for several reasons, including to

extend or repeat the bloom time; for aesthetic purposes on plants with unattractive seed heads and to prevent

self sowing of aggressive seed producers. Keep in mind don’t deadhead if you are planning to save seeds!

Certain plants do well with deadheading, while others not so much. Perennials to deadhead include Achillea ,

Astilbe, Campanula, Coreopsis, Delphinium, Monarda and Phlox paniculata. Annual flowers that you want to

consider deadheading include Alyssum, Cleome, Cockscomb, Geranium, Marigolds and Zinnias.

However, all rules are off once autumn comes as we need to make certain the birds will have some coneflow-

ers to perch on and rudbeckia to eat. Additionally, those pods can add visual appeal to your gardens.

Penn State Extension pamphlet on Deadheading; extension.psu.edu

North Carolina State University; http://sampson.ces.ncsu.edu/2013/04/how-can-i-make-colorful-flowers-

throughout-my-landscape-last-longer-3/

Page 11 Page 11 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

How does your garden grow?

Purple Coneflowers: Purple coneflowers, Echinacea purpurea, are summer blooming flowers

on sturdy stems that reach up to two feet tall and work well in mass plantings in a perennial bed.

The flowers are purple with a cone-like mound in the middle of the flower which is prickly to

touch. The Greek word for hedgehog is echinos hence the name of Echinacea. Coneflowers prefer

full sun and evenly moist, well-drained soil. They have a high degree of drought resistance but

have poor salt tolerance. Rutgers Fact Sheet 1140, “Incorporating Native Plants in Your Residen-

tial Landscape”, notes that goldfinches love the seed so don’t deadhead!

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1182.html

Bee Balm, Bergamot: The herbaceous perennial Bee Balm or Bergamot, Monarda didy-

ma, blooms in various shades of scarlet, white, pink, purple and blue in July. Scarlet is by far

the most popular and well-known and makes an impact when planted in mass. The fragrant

flowers attract bees and hummingbirds and prefer to grow in full sun and damp soils. The

overall plant height is 2 to 4 feet and the scarlet flowers have purple green rosettes which

grow into tubular flower whorls that look rather other-worldly. I use them often in floral ar-

rangement for a terrific pop of color.

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene13fe.html

Post Bloom Care of Bulbs: Rutgers Fact Sheet 1220 on “Spr ing Flow-

ering Bulbs” provides maintenance requirements for post-bloom care of

bulbs. It’s recommended to cut the flowers off after blooming to prevent

seed formation. However, leave the foliage on the plant until it turns yel-

low and dies back naturally. These practices help with the stored food and

nutrients in the bulb that will help with next year’s growth and bloom.

When you notice the stem and flower size decline, it’s time to separate

your plants. That practice is best done once the foliage has died back. Re-

move the foliage, wipe off the bulb, allow them to dry and replant them in

the fall to expand your home landscape or share with lucky family, friends

and neighbors.

Feed your roses: For those gardeners who love their roses, Rutgers Fact Sheet FS 944 on

“Roses and Their Care” recommends a second application of fertilizer no later than early Au-

gust. You can use a complete granular rose fertilizer or a water soluble fertilizer, being mind-

ful to apply either fertilizer as directed on the label. Continue with a deep watering on your

roses once a week. If your roses are showing signs of Black Spot per Fact Sheet 1158, you

can continue to control the disease by applying lime-sulfur every 7 to 14 days during the

growing season.

Bring on the tropics: If you want a splash of tropical color in your containers on your porch this sum-

mer consider viney plants like mandevilla or thunbergia, both of which have bright vibrant colors and beauti-

ful foliage. The leaves of mandevilla are dark green & leathery and thunbergia leaves are heart shaped. In-

stead of a typical trellis for a viney plant try pairing them up with something different like a banana plant for

support or adding it in with tall grasses as the spiller for a container garden. Both of these viney plants enjoy

full sun and well-drained soil, so mix them up with lantanas, verbenas and geraniums who

also like those conditions.

http://extension.msstate.edu/news/southern-gardening/2012/mandevilla-vines-give-gardening-

possibilities

https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_docs/locations/frederick_county/

MGArticle%2008-4-13%20Using%20Flowering%20Vines%20In%20Container%

Page 12 Page 12 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Azalea Lacebug: Rutgers Fact Sheet 1146, “Injur ies, Diseases and Insect Dam-

age of Rhododendrons and Azaleas”, recommends when you see a gray mottled ap-

pearance on the upper surface of azalea leaves, take a look on the lower surface of

the leaves for larvae and adult azalea lacebugs. You are likely to find spots of excre-

ment as well. This occurs mostly on azaleas grown in full sun as the beneficial in-

sects that feed on lacebugs are less active on the azaleas grown in full sun. Rutgers

Bulletin E014 on “Pest Management for Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers on Home

Grounds” recommends thorough coverage of all nymphs and adults with

horticultural oil or insecticidal soap at the first sign of infestation. Remember the

label is the law.

Fruit Flies: A client called and asked about control of fruit flies. Once you have fruit flies in your

home, in order to eradicate them you have to identify and remove or clean all sources of potential breeding

areas, which can be quite difficult. Besides the obvious attraction, which is fruit and vegetables, fruit flies

will also breed in drains, garbage disposals, empty bottles and cans, trash containers, mops and cleaning

rags. For the inaccessible sources, such as drains and disposals, tape a clear plastic

food storage bag over the opening and leave it overnight to capture any adult fruit

flies. After you’ve located, removed and cleaned all breeding sites for fruit flies the

next vitally important step is to trap any remaining adult flies left lingering in the area.

To do this, roll a sheet of paper into a funnel and place it into a jar. Bait the jar with a

few ounces of cider vinegar and place the jar trap(s) wherever fruit flies are seen. This

trap is a simple but effective way to catch any remaining adult flies.

https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef621

Ichneumonoid Wasp: A client brought in a picture of an insect she saw on her newly fresh cut tree

and quite frankly, it scared her. It was brightly colored with black,

brown and yellow stripes and had a very long tail-like ovipositer. It

was identified as an Ichneumonoid wasp. The females drill their ovi-

positor into trees to lay eggs and parasitize the larval stages of other

insects including beetle grubs and moth and butterfly caterpillars.

Many people see this and assume they are causing destruction to the

tree but they are not! The client was very relieved that this wasp was

not going to sting her or bite her.

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/braconidsichneumonoid-wasps

http://bygl.osu.edu/bygl_archive2015/content/mega-wasps-drilling-

trees-0

Milkweed tussock moth caterpillar: A client brought in a specimen of a caterpillar which was

identified as a Milkweed tussock moth caterpillar. These caterpillars start off

as a mass of eggs that hatch out and feed as a group off the bottom of the milk-

weed leaves. As these emerge through their instars they actually become quite

colorful with the development of black, orange and white tufts, which helped

in the identification of these caterpillars. This coloration also

advertises to predators that they are toxic due to the ingestion of cardiac

glycosides in the milkweeds sap.

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/

milkweed_tussock_moth_larvae_feed_on_common_milkweed

http://bygl.osu.edu/node/440

Creatures & Critters: Based on FAQ’s from the Helpline

Page 13 Page 13 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Luna moth: Did you know? Luna moths have some built in protec-

tion from predators with their twisted long tails that are believed to deter

bats from echo location of the Luna moth. Other predators such as ants

and mice are deterred by their ability to make a clicking noise with their

mandibles, generally warning as a precursor to regurgitation.

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/moths/luna_moth.htm

https://ui.uncc.edu/story/luna-moth

Mites: A client came in with a specimen from a tree and was concerned about the dying leaves. The

clusters of nutlets along with the asymmetrical and alternate heart shaped leaves helped

with the identification of the specimen as an American Linden tree, or basswood with the

latin name of Tilia Americana. A look under the microscope revealed an infestation of

mites. The homeowner said the linden tree was very large and our recommendation was

to hire a licensed pesticide applicator.

http://www.uky.edu/hort/American-Linden

http://nfs.unl.edu/CommunityForestry/Trees/AmLinden.pdf

Beneficial Insects: Integrated Pest Management is the practice of using environment fr iendly methods

to control plant insects and diseases. Rutgers Fact Sheet 930, “Natural Pest Control-

Using Beneficial Insects to Control Landscape Plants”, identifies several common bene-

ficial insects found in New Jersey, such as lady beetles, green lacewings and hoverflies

and some of the plants used to attract these beneficial insects. Some of those plants in-

clude daisy, black-eyed susan, sunflower, ornamental goldenrod, yarrow, aster and

Queen Anne’s lace. Herbs include parley, dill, fennel, catnip, spearmint and thyme.

Oriental Fruit Moth: A client brought in a small peach with small holes

and a sticky gooey substance, which was the frass, or insect excrement from

the larvae of the Oriental Fruit Moth. Rutgers Fact Sheet 113, “Peach and

Nectarine Pest Control Schedule for New Jersey Home Orchards”, provides

information about the Oriental Fruit Moth and a schedule of recommended

times and insecticide applications. It is important to always follow direc-

tions on the container label and store the container in a safe place. Missing

one spray can result in wormy or diseased fruit, so it is vital to follow the spray schedule, and to be certain

that the spray coverage is adequate. Mix only what is needed for the immediate spray job, because many pesti-

cides lose effectiveness when left in water for several hours.

Rose slugs: A client brought in rose leaves that had brown skeletonized spots along with some patchy

holes in them. Upon examination we found several small larvae which

were about ½ inch long, and yellow-green in color with a yellow green

head, and were camouflaged very well with the rose leaves. These were

identified as rose slugs, which are the larval stage of a common sawfly.

While handpicking may seem like a tedious management process, keep

in mind that if you spray your roses while they are in bloom, the bees

will be affected also!

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/rose-slugs-shrubs

https://extension.purdue.edu/lake/Pages/article.aspx?intItemID=5273

Page 14 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Garden Tips for June:

Allow the tops of spring-flowering bulbs to completely wither and turn brown. FS1220

Plant more gladiolus corms for a succession of bloom.

Protect ripening strawberries from birds with netting or row cover fabric. FS97 & 98

Make plans to pick locally grown strawberries.

Thin developing fruit on fruit trees if there seems to be an excessive amount. This will result in

larger fruits. FS1180

Prune fruit trees to eliminate suckers and watersprouts. FS1180

Fruit trees should be on a regular spray program. See your local extension website for tree

spray program bulletin

Cross striped Cabbageworms can be controlled with Bt. The label is the law. FS287

Be sure to thin vegetables, particularly root crops, so they’ll have room to grow properly.

Tomatoes that are supported with stakes or cages tend to have cleaner and larger fruits. FS678

Harvest established asparagus beds through the end of the month. FS221 & NE221

Plant vegetables in a container and grow them on decks, patios or other small spaces. FS055

Stake perennials as needed.

Pinch established chrysanthemums to develop fuller and stockier plants.

Apply a labeled fungicide every 7 to 10 days to protect roses from black spot. The label is the

law.

Prune climbing roses after they have bloomed. Remove dead and older canes. FS944

Fertilize roses during their first bloom.

Apply mulches around shrubs, perennials and annuals to maintain soil moisture and an even soil

temperature

Use bark mulch around young trees to protect them from lawn mower damage. FS099

Remove spent flower clusters or forming seed pods from azaleas, lilacs and rhododendrons.

Raise the mower blades to a height of 2 to 2½” and mow frequently. Remove no more than one

third of the total length of the grass blade. FS102

Lawn areas need a minimum of 1” of water in the form of rain or irrigation each week. FS555

Fertilize zoysia lawns. FS555

You can move houseplants outside to the deck or patio and enjoy them outdoors for the sum-

mer. It is best to gradually introduce them to more direct sunlight to prevent the leaves from be-

ing burned.

Feed houseplants with a good quality slow-release granular indoor plant food

If needed, re-pot root bound houseplants to a larger pot. Use potting mix when repotting house-

plants.

Hibiscus, Jasmine, Oleander and Mandevilla are just some of the flowering tropical plants you

can add to your deck, patio or balcony.

Various pest problems can occur in June. If you have plants that you suspect may be facing a

pest problem, bring in a representative sample to your local county agricultural extension agent

and they will help diagnose the problem and recommend the appropriate control.

Page 15 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Garden Tips for July:

Plant cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli as transplants in the garden for fall harvest. FS 129 & 787

Plant seeds of ornamental kale, and broccoli in cell packs early in the month for transplanting to the fall garden in mid August. FS129 & 787

Make another planting by seed of snap beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers and zucchini. FS129

Train staked tomatoes to one or two vines by removing all other branches as soon as they ap-pear. FS1102

Sidedress rhubarb with well-rotted manure or humus from the compost pile.

Harvest vegetables regularly for continued production. FS988

Pinch established chrysanthemums to develop fuller and stockier plants early in the month, but stop pinching chrysanthemums by mid July.

Remove spent flowers from annual flowers to keep them continuously flowering.

Fertilize heavy bloomer perennials such as ever blooming daylilies & mums

Divide clumps of crowded rhizomatous iris.

Perennials that provide interest in the month of July include Daylilies, Rudbeckia, Phlox, Veroni-ca, Ligularia, and Tickseed

Cutting flowers is best done with sharp shears or a knife which will help avoid injury to the grow-ing plant. A slanting cut will expose a larger absorbing surface to water and will prevent the base of the stem from resting on the bottom of the vase. It is best to carry a bucket of water to the garden for collecting flowers, rather than a cutting basket.

Control slugs and snails on hosta and other plants with diatomaceous earth

Start a compost pile. Continue pulling weeds & add them to the compost pile. FS811

Thoroughly water your newly planted trees and shrubs. FS786

Apply mulches around trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals to maintain soil moisture and an even soil temperature. Cover the soil 2 inches thick. Keep mulch away from the trunks of trees and shrubs. FS122

Many plants are easily propagated by layering. Verbenas, euonymus and climbing roses are a few plants that will root if the stems are fastened down and covered with soil.

Plants and trees that provide color in the month of July include Crape Myrtles, Spireas, Hydran-geas, Summersweet, Hypericum, Butterfly Bush and Golden Rain Tree.

Do not prune Azaleas and Rhododendrons after the second week of July when they will begin setting their buds for next year’s blooms.

Apply a labeled fungicide every 7 to 10 days to control black spot on roses. FS 1158

Fertilize your roses. FS944

Prop branches of heavily loaded fruit trees.

Fruit trees should be on a regular spray program.

Time to control aphids FS 077 & spider mites FS 235

Continue to mow the lawn at 2½ inches. FS 102

A thorough watering of a lawn more than twice per week is probably excessive FS555

Check the soil moisture of container grown vegetables and flowers daily. As the temperature rises, some plants may need water twice a day.

A brown or grayish cast over a lawn can be caused by a dull or improperly adjusted mower blades that shred grass rather than cut it. FS102

Control mosquitoes by eliminating all sources of stagnant water

Page 16 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

Garden Tips for August:

Collards, kale, leaf lettuce, mustard, spinach, radishes and turnips are good crops for your fallgarden. FS129

Pick summer squash and zucchini every day or two to keep the plants producing. Remove melon blossoms at the end of the month that won’t have time to set fruit. Ripening mel-

ons will then be larger. Fertilize your roses the first week of the month and then don’t fertilize them any more this year.

FS944 Clean up fallen rose and peony leaves. They can harbor disease and insect pests over the win-

ter if allowed to remain on the ground. Deadhead annuals to keep them blooming. Divide overcrowded spring-flowering perennials. Divide and transplant garden lilies and lilies-of-the-valley. Sow seeds of California poppy, columbine, delphinium and gloriosa and Shasta daisy. Take cuttings of begonias, coleus and impatiens for winter houseplants. Colorful plastic golf tees can be stuck in the ground to mark the location of dormant plants such

as spring bulbs or perennials. Plant ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus, Pennisetum and Hardy Pampas Grass for motion

and contrast. Remove old plants which have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease

organisms Control weeds before they flower and produce seeds. Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain

viable and germinate next year when the compost is used. Make plans for your fall planting of trees, shrubs and perennials. Plants and trees that provide color in the month of August include Crape Myrtles, Pee Gee Hy-

drangeas, Viburnums, Hypericum and Butterfly Bush. Visit your local nursery and see thesebeautiful plants in bloom

Since container-grown plants have a limited area from which to absorb water, plants in a sunnylocation may require watering several times a week. Check plants often to avoid water stress.

Check on water needs of hanging baskets daily in the summer. Wind and sun dry them muchmore quickly than other containers.

Water the garden early in the day so plants can absorb the moisture before the hot sun dries thesoil. Early watering also insures that the foliage dries before night. Wet foliage at night increas-es susceptibility to fungus diseases.

Check all plants, especially newly planted ones, for water on a regular basis. Water deeply andthoroughly as needed.

To reduce the number of pests on your fruit tree for the coming year, pick up and destroy all fall-en fruit.

Fruit trees should be on a regular spray program, again, check with your county extension office. Apply broadleaf weed control in cool season turfgrasses in early August if you want to seed in

late September or early October. FS385 Apply one inch of water to your lawn and gardens weekly during dry periods. The Primary Establishment Period for seeding your lawn in Southern New Jersey (Trenton and

south) is August 20th to October 10th. FS584

Be alert for wasp nests when mowing and gardening. FS1134

Rutgers Cooperative Extensions Fact Sheets Call (856) 451-2800 x4 ask for Pam Burton. When Calling to request a fact sheet refer to the Fact Sheet by FS# or by name. All fact sheets are free unless otherwise noted. FS # Fact Sheet Name Fact Sheet 2 Brown Marmorated Stink Bug

Fact Sheet 11 Blossom End Rot: Tomatoes, peppers, Eggplant

Fact Sheet 20 Weed Control Around the Home Grounds

Fact Sheet 58 Mulches for the Vegetable Garden

Fact Sheet 106 Blueberry Pest Management for Home Gardens

Fact Sheet 112 Apple Pest Control Schedule for New Jersey Home Orchards

Fact Sheet 115 Cherry Spray Schedule for New Jersey Home Orchards

Fact Sheet 119 Weed Control in Home lawns

Fact Sheet 235 Spider mites

Fact Sheet 399 Vole Ecology and Management

Fact Sheet 419 Selecting Blueberry Varieties for the Home Garden

Fact Sheet 426 Moss in the lawn

Fact Sheet 450 Using Water Wisely in the Garden

Fact Sheet 521 Zoysiagrass Lawns in New Jersey

Fact Sheet 555 Best Management Practices for Watering Lawns

Fact Sheet 595 Low Water Use Landscaping

Fact Sheet 599 Principles of Low Water use landscaping IV: Apply Mulches

Fact Sheet 610 Harvesting Melons at Peak Flavor

Fact Sheet 626 Fertilizing the Home Vegetable Garden

Fact Sheet 678 Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden

Fact Sheet 814 Managing Diseases of landscape Turf

Fact Sheet 871 Understanding the Fertilizer Labels

Fact Sheet 901 Topsoil Suitable for Landscape Use

Fact Sheet 924 Home Landscape Practices for Water Quality Protection

Fact Sheet 930 Natural Pest Control-using Beneficial Insects to Control landscape Pests

Fact Sheet 921 Conserving Water on Home lawns and Landscapes in NJ

Fact Sheet 944 Roses and their Care

Fact Sheet 988 Picking Vegetables for the Home Garden

Fact Sheet 1019 Poison Ivy and Brush Control Around the Home Grounds

Fact Sheet 1133 Cedar Apple Rust in the Home Landscape

Fact Sheet 1140 Incorporating Native Plants in Your Residential Landscape

Fact Sheet 1151 Hollies for New Jersey

Fact Sheet 1152 Hydrangeas in the Garden

Fact Sheet 1153 Growing Dahlias

Fact Sheet 1155 Cannas

Fact Sheet 1158 Black Spot of Rose

Fact Sheet 1161 Cut Flowers for the Market and Home Garden - Zinnia

Fact Sheet 1173 Canada Thistle in Home Landscapes

Call 856/451-2800 x4 ask for Pam Burton. When calling to request a fact sheet refer to the Fact Sheet by FS# or by name. All fact sheets are free unless otherwise noted.

Sincerely,

Salvatore S. Mangiafico, Ph.D. Wesley L. Kline, Ph.D. County Agent II/Associate Professor County Agent II/Associate Professor Environmental & Resource Management Vegetable & Herb Production

Internet: Mangiafico@njaes.rutgers.edu Internet: wkline@njaes.rutgers.edu

Page 17 “WHAT’S GROWING ON…”

NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION

U.S. POSTAGE PAID

VINELAND, NJ

PERMIT NO. 186

Cooperative Extension of Cumberland County

291 Morton Avenue

Millville, NJ 08332-9791

For important announcements concerning the Cumberland County Extension Center visit:

http://Cumberland.njaes.rutgers.edu

If you have any questions concerning the website, please call our office at

856-451-2800 x1 for agriculture and

856-451-2800 x4 for Home Horticulture and Master Gardeners

Public Notification and Non-discrimination Statement Rutgers Cooperative Extension is an equal opportunity program provider and employer. Contact your

local Extension Office for information regarding special needs or accommodations. Contact the State Extension Director's Office if you have concerns related to discrimination, 848-932-3584.

Join Us for an Incredible Journey

Each fall, monarch butterflies from the U.S. and Canada begin a 2,000 mile migration to Mexico. The following spring, their great grandchildren return. This summer, an exciting opportunity for teachers is coming to a town near you.

The powerful story of the monarch butterfly inspired the emergence of the Monarch Teacher Network (MTN) in 2001 and its Canadian partners in 2003.

'Teaching and Learning With Monarch Butterflies' is a two-day workshop combining classroom and field experiences. It enables pre-K through 12th grade educators to teach essential skills in literacy, math, science, geography, technology, Spanish, the arts and social studies… through the captivating story of monarchs. Participants will complete the workshop with all the materials they need to bring this exciting and dynamic subject into their homes or classrooms.

Workshops are taught by a team of experienced classroom teachers and educators. Participants are provided with the knowledge, skills, materials and confidence to raise monarchs in the classroom and create an outstanding learning experience for their students.

Monarch Teacher Network has other opportunities available as well like one-week tours of Mexico or California where we visit the over-wintering colonies of Monarchs and explore local Mexican culture in the state of Michoacán or other animal migrations and old growth forests of California.

Each participant receives: Hands-on instruction by experienced teachers; Rearing cages, books, posters, DVDs and other essential materials; Strategies for butterfly gardens and “Monarch Parades”; Inquiry-based science activities for all abilities; Activities for Mexican/pre-Hispanic culture, history and Spanish language; Activities for language arts, math, social studies, drama, and fine arts; Distance learning projects with schools in Canada/Mexico/California; Proven models for engaging community support; Post-workshop on-going support.

This workshop is cosponsored by Rutgers Master Gardeners of Cumberland County

Photo credit: Mike Aporius Winnipeg Free Press

Here is what people are saying: “This was the most awesome learning experience in my 30 years of teaching.”

“Thank you for all the insights - reflecting on our way of life and how to make a difference.”

“Everyone’s commitment, dedication, energy and obvious passion for this project are outstanding andcontagious … wonderful ambassadors for the planet Earth!”

“What a magical place the classroom will be! I can’t wait to try to connect kids even more to theenvironment.”

“I have never had monarchs in my classroom and now I am excited to start this new amazing classroom

activity! I feel fully equipped to start this new hands-on adventure!”

Name_______________________________ Summer E-mail (important) _______________________

Home Address (street, city) ___________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________State___________Zip__________

Home phone: (_____) ________________________ Grade_______________T-shirt size__________

If a Teacher, School Name & Address: _________________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________________

No space will be held until the completed form is received.

Mail this completed registration and payment to: Monarch Teacher Network (MTN) 309 Roosevelt Ave, Pitman, NJ. 08071. Checks should be made payable to GCNC, a NJ 501c3 environmental organization with over a 68 year history of serving people and the environment.

For Inquiries reach out to Erik Mollenhauer: emollen213@gmail.com 856.381.9230 or Brian Hayes: bkhayesoutdoors@gmail.com 856.649.8723.

Workshop Details Dates: August 20 and 21, 2018

Location: Extension Education Center 291 Morton Avenue

Millville, New Jersey 08332 Time: 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Cost: $99.00