milano guida to the city

8/9/2019 Milano Guida to the City

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citytotheguide


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Comune di MilanoSettore Politiche del Turismoe Marketing TerritorialeVia Dogana, 220121 Milano

DirectorMassimiliano Taveggia

Development andmonitoring of tourismSergio Daneluzzi

Local promotional portalPatrizia Bertocchi

Content supervisionMauro Raimondi

Photo creditsDeAgostini Picture, ArchivioAlinari, Alessandro Casiello,Marco Clarizia, Contrasto, Corbis,

Gianni Congiu, Marka, MauroRanzani, Andrea Scuratti, VandoPagliardini, Michela Veicsteinas

In the Guide, activate theQR codes on your smartphone:each itinerary has a codeoffering access to theGuides special content.

Updated May 2014

Download the App Milan. Guide to the City for:

Published byIniziative SpecialiDe Agostini Libri S.p.A.

DirectorAndrea Pasquino

Product ManagerLicia Triberti, Davide Gallotti

Editorial projectFederica Savino

Editing andIconographic ResearchMarco Torriani withAlessandra Allemandi

Graphic Design and LayoutSandra Luzzani withVando Pagliardini

Text byMonica Berno

Technical Prepress ServicesAndrea Campo

Technical CoordinationGuido Leonardi


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Introduction

Map of the city/Center of the city

Milan and its HistoryExploring the City Centre

Ancient Roman and Medieval Milan

The Renaissance and the Baroque

The Neoclassical Age and the 19th-Century

The Great Churches of Milan

The Buildings of Milan

The Museums of Milan

Contemporary Art in Milan

Milan: a City of Science

Parks and Navigli

Shopping in Milan

Entertainment, Sports and Leisure

Outside Milan

Expo Milano 2015

Useful Information

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Welcome


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Dealing with a great city like Milan demands a comprehensive

overview, which is why we have prepared this handy, complete

guidebook, offering the key to the treasures of the city and its

surroundings.

We have chosen a simple format, ideal when strolling around the

city, comprising 13 itineraries covering art, history, culture and

nature. Essential, up-to-date information will guide you through

the best the city has to offer, as well as to a number of unexpected

treasures off the beaten track, just waiting to be explored.

This guidebook is our way of welcoming you to our city, and of

thanking you for choosing Milan. We are certain you wont bedisappointed. For centuries, Milan has captured the interest of

the world by its dynamism, creativity and innovation. This energyreflects the love of life its inhabitants have ever offered to Europe

and the world at large.

While sauntering through the streets of Milan, visiting its museums

and basilicas, doing a spot of shopping, or exploring the ancient

waterways of Lombardy, you will find yourselves drawn into the

special atmosphere of the city, sharing in its positivity and drive.

Milan loves nothing better than a challenge, and the 2015 WordExpo will be no exception. The city is preparing to open its doors

to the world, and of course to you. This guidebook is our answer

to an equally important challenge, that of enticing you back to

Milan, attracted by that subtle fascination that welcomes and

enchants all.

Enjoy your stay in Milan.

Giuliano PisapiaMayor of Milan


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The first traces of a settlement in the Milan area date back to the 6th-5th century B.C.,when the area was inhabited by the Insubrian Gauls. The villages Celtic name, whichhas come down to us in its Latinised form, Mediolanum, seems to have meant landamidst the rivers or the plains. Finally conquered by the Romans in 194 B.C., thecity became the residence of Emperor Maximian and capital of the Western RomanEmpire in A.D. 286.After the A.D. 313Edict of Constantine - promulgated in Milan -it became a centre of great importance due to the consolidation of the new

Christian religion thanks to the work of Ambrose, elected Bishop in 374. Many ofMilans churches (such as SantAmbrogio, SantEustorgio and San Lorenzo) are in fact ofpaleochristian origin. When the court moved to Ravenna (A.D. 402), Milan saw the

beginning of a period of decline. From the end of the 5th centuryto the 8th centurythe city was devastated by Attila and the Huns, by Goths and by Byzantines; followingthe Lombard conquest of 569, the new kingdom set up its capital in Pavia.

Not until the Carolingian period (9th10th century) did the city become an importantcentre again, above all thanks to its count-bishops. In the 12th centurythe growthof the city of Milan attracted the attention of Emperor Frederick I of Swabia, whoattempted to subdue it and, when faced with resistance, destroyed it completely in

1162. The alliance of the Communes of the Po Valley, which joined forces in theLombard League (1167), defeated Barbarossa (Legnano, 1176) and rebuilt the city.

Milan and its HistoryThe age of the free communes ended under the dominion of the Torrianifamilyand then theViscontis(1277-1301, 1311-1447). In these 170 years Milan wasthe capital of a vast duchy, and construction of the Duomo began (1386). Upon thedeath of Filippo Maria Visconti in 1447, the absence of an heir led to the three-yeargovernment of the Aurea Repubblica Ambrosiana, without placating the conflict

between the citys most important families over inheritance of political control. In1450the city fell into the hands of a captain of fortune, Francesco Sforza, and it

was under his dynasty that Milan became one of the capitals of the Renaissance,thanks to the many artists who worked in the city (including Filarete, Bramante and

Leonardo da Vinci); this was the time of construction of the Ospedale Maggiore,Cappella Portinari and the Lazzaretto. In the early 16th centurythe area around

Milan became the theatre of conflict between the French and Spanish monarchies.The Spanish prevailed, and were to dominate the city for almost two centuries(1535-1713). These were hard times, times of great social inequality, of plague(1576 and 1630) and the domination of the Borromeo family. The first member ofthis family, St. Carlo, made Milan a stronghold of the Catholic Counter-Reformation;the second, Federico, opened its first public library, the Ambrosiana, and the picturegallery of the same name. In 1713control of Milan passed from the Spanish to theAustrians. Under Empress Maria Theresa of Austria (1740-1780) and her son JosephII (1780-1790) the city began to thrive again in every way, from the economy to thearts. The Accademia di Brera was founded, and the Teatro alla Scala, the Palazzo and

Villa Reale and many neoclassical palaces were built. On 15 May 1796Napoleoncame into the city at the head of the French army. One year later Milan became the

The Biscioneisanother symbol of thecity of Milan, alongwith St. Georgescross and the ScrofaSemilanuta.The dragon, in theform of a serpent inthe act of consuminga young man, was theheraldic charge of the

Visconti family.

The scrofa semilanuta,or half-woolly sow, in abas-relief on the Palazzodella Ragione recallingthe legendary originsof the citys name.Belloveso, chief of theCelts, founded Milanin the place where ahalf-woolly sow (mediolanae in Latin) had beenfound just as the oraclehad predicted.


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Top: an episode of theFive Days of Milandepicted in a paintingby Baldassarre Verazzi.Between 18 and 22March 1848 the peopleof Milan rebelledagainst the Austro-Hungarian army,setting up barricades.

Above: The laying ofthe first stone in the

Gallery, by DomenicoInduno. It was 7 March1865 and King VittorioEmanuele II attended.

capital of the Cisalpine Republic, and then, in 1805, ofthe Kingdom of Italy: Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned inthe Duomo. With the return of the Austrians (1814) theunification of Italy, known as the Risorgimento, began in

Milan. In1848the city rose against the Austro-Hungarians,winning the revolt after five days of battle. But not until1859did Milan join the Savoy dominions, and in 1861it

became a part of the Kingdom of Italy, soon becomingits economic capital. The new wealth soon drasticallyaltered the citys historic centre, where banks and insurancecompanies set up their headquarters and elegant newdistricts were built (often with little regard for the cityspast history). The citys many industries attracted labourers,and a new working class arose, represented at first bythe Partito Operaio or Workers Party (1882) and then bythe Partito Socialista Italiano, the Italian Socialist Party(1892). By the end of the century the political climate was

incandescent, and the tension led to the 1898repression of a popular uprising by the army under general

Bava Beccaris, who shot cannon fire into crowds protesting against the increase inthe price of bread, killing 80 people and injuring 450. In the years following the FirstWorld War, the city of Milan saw more times of great social tension and economichardship. It was here that Mussolini founded the Fascist Party in 1919: the regimemade a great mark on the city, changing its face forever with the (controversial)covering over of the canals (Navigli) and the construction of a number of public

works (Palazzo di Giustizia, Palazzo dellArte, Fiera campionaria). During the SecondWorld WarMilan was heavily bombarded by the Allies, and the city was in thefront lines of the fight against fascism following 1943, becoming the seat of the

Partisans Northern Italian Command, earning the city a Gold Medal of the Resistance.When the conflict was over, the capital of Lombardy became the engine drivingreconstruction of the country and the leader in an economic boom which saw thecity grow and transform with the arrival of thousands of immigrants. From 1967on, workers and students protests and then the strategy of tension led to furtherchanges in the citys character. The Banca dellAgricoltura massacre in Piazza Fontana(12 December 1969) ushered in a time of violent political struggle and terroristattacks which did not end until the early 80s. The rest is recent history, in which thecity of Milan is at the centre of an irreversible process of urban developmentresulting from almost total deindustrialisation. Large-scale projects such as City Life,Portelloand Cascina Merlata are changing the look of the land.With Expo Milano2015the city will undergo further architectural and urban change starting withthe huge complex that will be built beside the new Milan Trade Fair.

Aprocess of renewal which is not only urban, but social and cultural as well.

Everything is wonderful in Milan, the abundance of every thing, the number

and elegance of its palatial homes, the amicable disposition of the people; the cheerful living

Decimius Magnus Ausonius, 4th century A.D.


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PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

DUOMO

GALLERIA VITTORIO

EMANUELE II

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA

PALAZZO MARINO

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

SANTA MARIA

DEL CARMINE

PALAZZO DI BRERA

PINACOTECA

DI BRERA

SAN MARCO

The rooftop terracesof the Duomooffersplendid views overthe city, but visitors

must climb 919 stepsto get to them! Onthe Gran Guglia, thecathedrals highestspire, rises theMadonnina, symbolof Milan ever sincethe tricolour flagappeared on the spireduring the Five Daysin 1848, hung thereby the patriot Torelli

when the Austriansnipers had fledfrom the roof of thecathedral.

Exploring the1The first place anyone who lives in Milan will take a first-time visitor is of coursePiazza del Duomo, the geographical and historical centre of Milan. The existingpiazza is the result of a series of changes and expansions over the centuries; at one

time it was very small, surrounded by medieval houses and palaces. The cathedral

must have been a very impressive sight as one emerged from a narrow alleyway.

Between 1865 and 1873 a large churchyard was created, surrounded by palaces

with arcades, changing the Duomos emotional impact. The piazza contains the

Duomo, the Palazzo Reale [> p. 16/24], the Arengario[> p. 22/30], the arcadesand the Galleria; in the centre is the equestrian monument to King Vittorio Emanuele.

The Duomo [> p. 18], symbol of the city, is of uncertain date. Its construction

may have begun in 1386, as we may read on a small stone at the beginningof the first bay on the right in the church: El principio dil domo di Milano fu

nelanno 1386. We can say for sure that work on the facade began in the first

half of the 16th century. The Fabbrica del Duomo was an endless task: the

last door was not completed until 1965! The marble mass is of exceptional size,

and is one of Europes biggest Gothic cathedrals, measuring 158 m long, 93 m

wide and 108.5 m high at its highest spire. To the left of the cathedral is the

19th century Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II[> p. 17]linking Piazza del Duomowith Piazza della Scala, where the two main buildings face one another: PalazzoMarino [> p. 24]on one side and Teatro alla Scala on the other [> p. 17], the

worlds best-known opera theatre. The left arcade covers the entrance to theMuseo Teatrale alla Scala [> p. 28].

We continue our tour on the street running along the side of the theatre, via

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Verdi, to via Brera. Here we turn to the left into via del Carmine to a smallsquare containing the church of Santa Maria del Carmine, the parish churchfor English-speaking immigrants, where mass is celebrated every week in

English and in Tagalog, the most important language of the Philippines. It hasa complicated and curious history: originally built in the 15th century, it has

been repeatedly rebuilt and restored, and the Spanish ordered its bell towerlowered in 1664. We continue along via Brera to the impressive 17th-century

Palazzo di Brera, home to the Pinacoteca, the Accademia di Belle Arti and theBiblioteca Nazionale Braidense. This is the heart of the Brera district, with itsartists, poets and crowded bars. The Baroque Palazzo di Brera has a solemnfacade, a noteworthy portal - framed by the columns supporting the balcony - a

beautiful courtyard and a majestic grand staircase (Scalone dOnore) leading tothe famous Pinacoteca [> p. 28]. At the corner of via Fatebenefratelli and via

Pontaccio, we turn right into via San Marco, home of the church and conventwhere Mozart stayed. This is where the Tombon of San Marco opened up, alittle lake marking the end point of the Naviglioor canal [> p. 37], a port wheregoods were unloaded off barges. The church of San Marcodates back to the

13th century and still has its original portal, bell tower and a number of statues.The interior has been redone in Baroque style.

Left: GalleriaVittorio Emanuele

II, coveredpassageway in aLatin cross shape,featuring mosaics anda wrought iron andglass roof.Lower left: Teatroalla Scala, theworlds best-knownopera theatre.

Lower right: insidethe church of SanMarco. It was herethat the Messada Requiem forAlessandro Manzoniwas celebratedunder the directionof Giuseppe Verdi in1874. The churchsextraordinaryacoustics make it

a favourite concertvenue for the mostimportant institutesof music in Milan.

City Centre...(the Duomo seems) a delusion of

frostwork that might vanish with a breath!...

Mark Twain

Blocks of marblefor the construction

of the Duomo werebrought from LagoMaggiore via the TicinoRiver, the NaviglioGrande and the fossainterna dei navigli, thecitys inner circle ofcanals, up to the littlelake of Santo Stefano, anartificial pool between

the hospital and thechurch of Santo Stefano.


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CIVICO MUSEO

ARCHEOLOGICO

SAN MAURIZIO

RUINS OF THE

IMPERIAL PALACE

RUINS OF THE ROMAN

THEATRE AND FORUM

SAN SEPOLCRO

ROMAN

AMPHITHEATRE AND

ARCHAEOLOGICAL

SITE

SAN LORENZO

MAGGIORE

PARCO DELLE

BASILICHE

SANTEUSTORGIO

SAN NAZARO

MAGGIORE

16 Roman columnsdating back to theImperial age standbefore the facadeof San LorenzoMaggiore. In themiddle is a bronze

copy of the statue ofEmperor Constantinerecalling the Edictof Milan.

Ancient Roman and

Few traces remain of the Milan that was the capital city of the Western RomanEmpire, as its monuments have been demolished over the ages to reuse thebuilding materials. To get an idea of what the city was like in those days, startat theCivico Museo Archeologico[> p. 26], an archaeological museum housedin the extraordinary setting of an 8th century monastery, Monastero Maggioredi San Maurizio, of which only the church of San Maurizio[> p. 19] remainsalong with the entrance cloister. The park inside the museum contains the onlysurviving towerfrom the ancient Roman walls, called Torre di Ansperto. This

was the location of a 1st century A.D. home and a big Roman circus, of whichone of the two square towers still stands, transformed into a bell tower for the

church. The ruins of a building that was part of the imposing Imperial Palace,the Palazzo imperialebuilt towards the end of the 3rd century, are visible innearby via Brisa, where we may also see the remains of ancient Roman baths.The late 1st century B.C. Theatreis buried underneath the Palazzo della Borsa[> p. 24], home to the citys stock exchange, in Piazza degli Affari (open to

visitors on request only). Of course the city of Mediolanum also had a Forum(1stcentury A.D.), underneath the Biblioteca Ambrosiana [> p. 28]; its floor is now

visible in the lower church of San Sepolcro[> p. 19]. The Roman city had placesfor entertainment and places of worship outside the city gates; just outside PortaTicinese was an Amphiteatrebuilt in the 2nd to 3rd century now part of the

Parco Archeologico,archaeological site in via De Amicis 17, joined to AldaLevi Antiquarium and the basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore[> p. 18]. Thechurch, built in the 4th and 5th centuries, has maintained its original form, and

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2SAN SIMPLICIANO

SANTAMBROGIO

PIAZZA DEI MERCANTI

PALAZZO DELLA

RAGIONE

CAMPANILE DI SAN

GOTTARDO IN CORTE

SANTO STEFANO

MAGGIORE

SAN BERNARDINO

ALLE OSSA


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the adjacent chapel preserves Roman and paleochristian artefacts. We now crossthe Parco delle Basiliche[> p. 37]to SantEustorgio[> p. 20], a basilica witha complex layout (dating back to the 7th to 12th centuries) incorporating thestructure of a paleochristian chapel and tombs. Bishop Ambrose had three other

basilicas built in addition to San Lorenzo Maggiore: San Nazaro Maggiore[> p. 19], in corso di Porta Romana, San Simpliciano[> p. 20], behind viaSolferino, and the basilica Martyrum now known as SantAmbrogio[> p. 20],

a splendid example of the Lombard Romanesque style. All three offer specimensof late Roman and paleochristian sculpture.The medieval city centre was built around the Duomo. Piazza dei Mercanti, hometo Palazzo della Ragione[> p. 23]and Palazzo dei Giureconsulti[> p. 23], was thecentre of civic life in the middle ages, and it was under its arcades that traders, money

changers and notaries met to discuss business. Behind the cathedral, incorporated in

the rear part of the Palazzo Reale, is a red brick bell tower: it and the apse are all that

remains of the 14th century palatine church of San Gottardo in Corte. Across viaLarga, in little Piazza Santo Stefano, are two more places of worship: the basilica of

Santo Stefano Maggiore Romanesque but altered in the 16th and 19th centuries

and the medieval church of San Bernardino alle Ossa, known for its Ossuary Chapel,with its unusual decorations made up of human bones.

Top left: the ruinsof the Romanamphitheatre,an imposing arenameasuring about 160x 125 m.Top right: the diatretatrivulziais a 4thcentury Roman cagecup, a glass vessel ina cage made by anunknown technology,

now in the CivicoMuseo Archeologico.Below: Piazza deiMercantiwith thewell in the middle(dating back to the16th century) whichwas originally on theother side, where theso-called stone of thebankrupt was located.This is where debtors

sat before giving upall their property andbeing imprisoned innearby Malastalla jail.

Medieval Milan

Behind thebasilica of San

Lorenzo is PiazzaVetra, where allegedwitches andmalefactors wereexecuted. A statue ofSt. Lazarus stands onthe exact spot wherethe condemnedbreathed their last.

...(Milan) shines adorned by the

various aspects of a perspicuous culture

Anonymous Lombard, 8th century


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CA GRANDA

CASTELLO SFORZESCO

SANTA MARIA

DELLE GRAZIE

SAN VITTORE

AL CORPO

SANTA MARIA PRESSO

SAN SATIRO

SANTALESSANDRO

SANTEUFEMIA

SANTA MARIA PRESSO

SAN CELSO

The Torre delFilareteis thetower characterisingCastello Sforzesco,

recreated onthe basis of twosketches found bychance in the abbeyof Chiaravalle anda farmhouse inPozzobonelli.The round fountainornamenting thepiazza replaces theearlier Torta di Sps(Wedding Cake)

which was removedin the 60s to permitconstruction of thecitys first subway line.

The Renaissance and

On 12 April 1456 Duke Francesco Sforza laid the first stone of the Ca Grandaand started work on the construction of what was to be Europes most advancedhospital of its day. Begun by Antonio Averulino, known as Filarete, it was theOspedale Maggiore, the biggest hospital in Milan, until 1939: in 1943 it was severelydamaged by bombs and then radically rebuilt. It is now home to the Universit degliStudi, with its very long facade on via Festa del Perdono. At that time Filarete also

worked on one of the best-known symbols of medieval and Renaissance Milan:Castello Sforzesco, transforming it from a fortress to a stately palace for the Duke.The work began in 1368 under Galeazzo II Visconti and the lords of Milan livedthere until the 16th century, when it became a military citadel again. It risked

demolition, but was restored and transformed starting in 1893 by Luca Beltrami, anarchitect interested in the study of antiquity. It is now an important cultural centreand home to the Musei del Castello[> p. 26]. Not far away is Santa Maria delleGrazie [> p. 20/26], a jewel of the Renaissance and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.In this fascinating part of Milan we may find numerous memories of Leonardo da

Vinci, not only in the former Dominican monastery next to the church where hepainted his Last Supper but also in the garden behind Palazzo delle Stelline (acrossfrom the church), known as Orti di Leonardo, with the vineyard which Ludovicoil Moro, Duke of Milan, had given Leonardo. The great Tuscan painter spent morethan 20 years in Milan, where he painted the two versions of the Virgin of the

Rocks and Musician (in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana) and invented hydraulicmachinery and war machines. Near the church (at via San Vittore 25), set back ina little piazza, is another of Italys most beautiful late Renaissance churches: the

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basilica of San Vittore al Corpo. Rebuilt between 1560 and 1602 by the Olivetanswho lived in the nearby monastery (now home to the citys science museum, Museodella Scienza e della Tecnologia), the church has three naves decorated with whiteand gold plasterwork and 17th century canvases.Another suggested itinerary starts near the Duomo, in via Torino, home to the churchof Santa Maria presso San Satiro, offering valuable testimony of Renaissance Milan.The most striking thing about the churchs tiny interior is the famous fake presbytery

by Bramante, a painted virtual space creating the illusion of a deep apse. Continuingalong the street, turn left into via Lupetta and walk to the piazza containing thechurch of SantAlessandro, built by the Barnabite Fathers in the 17th century. Weare now in the Baroque age, and the facade and elegant bell towers suggest theatmosphere of the interior with its abundance of canvases. In nearby Corso Italia, thepiazza of the same name is dominated by the church of SantEufemia, a nationalmonument preserving noteworthy 16th century paintings of the school of Leonardo.Continuing along the street, we come to the sanctuary of Santa Maria presso SanCelso, a beautiful example of Lombard Renaissance architecture: the 16th centurycourtyard surrounded by arcades in front of the church is a true masterpiece. It is

a centuries-old tradition that Milanese brides take a bouquet to the icon of theMadonna exhibited in this church right after their weddings.

Left: the falsepresbytery designedby Bramante in thechurch of SantaMaria presso SanSatiro. On the mainaltar is a votive frescoof the Madonna col

Bambino, which issaid to have bledwhen struck by agamblers dagger inthe Middle Ages.Above: the arcadeon the great innercourtyard of CaGranda.Below: a section ofthe Spanish wallsaround the inner ring

road. Only a portionof the original 10km of walls is visibletoday.

the Baroque

Its perfectacoustics made

the church ofSantEufemia theperfect locationfor recording MariaCallas singingopera in the 50s:I puritani,Cavalleria rusticanaand La sonnambula.

Today, Milan is the most opulent

and bounteous city of Italy.

Matteo Bandello


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PALAZZO REALE

PALAZZO

ARCIVESCOVILE

CORSO VITTORIO

EMANUELE II

SAN CARLO AL

CORSO

SAN BABILA

PALAZZO

SERBELLONI

PALAZZI CASTIGLIONI

E BOVARA

VILLA BELGIOJOSO

BONAPARTE O REALE

PALAZZO DUGNANI

ARCO DELLA PACE

When the courtmoved to CastelloSforzesco, PalazzoRealebecame theseat of the Spanishgovernment and then

the Austrian governor,Archduke Ferdinand I,who thoroughlyrenovated it.

The Neoclassical AgeThe 18th century was a time of intense construction in Milan, and the responsibilityfor the look of the new city lies above all with Giuseppe Piermarini, court architect of

Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, who designed the Teatro alla Scala and renovatedthe Palazzo Reale [> p. 10/24] and, in 1770, the nearby Palazzo Arcivescovileinneoclassical style. The Porta Veneziaarea was another focus of the architects attention,as it was the gateway to the city for anyone arriving from Austria, which is why heconstructed so many noble palaces there. An itinerary for discovery of this part of the citymight start at the northeast corner of Piazza del Duomo, in Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.On the right is a very tall archway to the Galleria del Corso, and under the arcades on theopposite side we may observe, in a niche, the stone statue of a noble Roman in a toga,

whose head has been replaced with that of a 10th century bishop. Known as Omm dePreja or scior Carra, the statue was used as a notice-board in the early 19th centuryfor affixing comments, messages and satirical notes. Where the street widens out near itsend is the neoclassical church of San Carlo al Corsowith its facade recalling a classicaltemple. Corso Vittorio Emanuele opens up into the piazza containing the old church ofSan Babila, one of the most important Romanesque churches in Milan (11th century),

which was however reconstructed in neo-Romanesque style in the mid-19th century.Turning into Corso Venezia, on the corner with via San Damiano one is struck by theimposing Palazzo Serbelloni (1793): once the meeting place of the Milanese Illuministsand later home to Napoleon, Metternich, Vittorio Emanuele II and Napoleon III. Just

beyond it are Palazzo Castiglioni[> p. 23] and Palazzo Bovara, in severe neoclassicalstyle, famous for having hosted Stendhal in 1800. On the opposite side of Corso

Venezia stands Palazzo Saporiti, built in 1812. In nearby via Palestro we may admire

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4ARENA CIVICA

GIANNI BRERA

GALLERIA VITTORIO

EMANUELE II

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

SAN FEDELE

CASA DEGLI

OMENONI

PALAZZO

BELGIOIOSO


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one of the most beautiful creations of neoclassical Milan:Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte,known asVilla Reale [> p. 24/31], with its beautiful garden[> p. 36]. In front of itis a park, Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli [> p. 36]designed by Piermarini in theItalian style. Right by the park is 18th-century Palazzo Dugnani [> p. 24/36]. In theearly 19th century two new constructions were built in Milan: the Arco della Pace(in

vast Piazza Sempione) and the Arena Civica [> p. 43], a look back at the world ofantiquity. Going back to Piazza del Duomo, we may take a second itinerary starting

with Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II(built in the second half of the 19th century inhonour of the King of Italy), a covered street which represented Italys first use ofglass and iron as structural materials and joined the Duomo to La Scala. PiermarinisTeatro alla Scalawas inaugurated in 1778 with a melodrama by Antonio Salieri and

became famous as a temple of opera under Arturo Toscanini (1898-1908). Behindthe piazza is the church of San Fedele, completed in 1835. Not far away is viaOmenoni with the beautiful Casa degli Omenoni(1562-1565) [> p. 22], leading tothe little piazza containing Palazzo Belgioioso[> p. 22], commissioned of Piermariniin 1772. Dating back to the late Nineteenth Century the Cimitero Monumentale,Monumental Cemetery (designed in 1863), is a real open air museum teeming

with artistic masterpieces (visits are possible). The Memorial Chapel houses the remainsof many famous people (such as Alessandro Manzoni, Salvatore Quasimodo etc)

Left: the churchof San Carlo alCorso is a splendidneoclassical complex.Preceded by aCorinthian arcade,under a huge dome,the church is avariation on thePantheon.

Left, above: the innercourtyard of PalazzoClerici, an example of18th century patricianarchitecture in Milan.Left, below: ArenaCivica Gianni

Brera has hostednaval battles, circuses,and a skating rink.Buffalo Bill and hiscircus of caravans

and real Indiansperformed aWild West Showhere in 1906.

and the 19th-Century

The Galleria,with its 47

metre high dome,has been imitatedrepeatedly in Italyand abroad, andprovided the modelfor constructionof countless shoppingcentres in Canadaand the UnitedStates.


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DUOMO

SAN LORENZO

MAGGIORE

SAN MAURIZIO

AL MONASTERO

MAGGIORE

SAN NAZARO

MAGGIORE

SAN SEPOLCRO

SAN SIMPLICIANO

SANTAMBROGIO

SANTEUSTORGIO

SANTA MARIA

DELLE GRAZIE

SANTA MARIA

INCORONATA

...From far away itlooks as if it has beencut out of a sheet ofwhite paper, but as weapproach we realisethat the lace cut-outsare undeniably madeof white marble.... Sosaid Heinrich Heine in

1826, and the marvelwe experience beforethe Duomo is still justthe same today.

The Great Churches

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5Filarete, Leonardo Da Vinci, Bramante,Francesco di Giorgio Martini, Bernini,

Bergognone, Luini, GaudenzioFerrari these are only a few of the

best-known artists who have madeMilan and its churches so great.

Duomo [> p. 10]Piazza del Duomo. The symbol ofthe Lombard capital; dedicated to

Santa Maria Nascente (St. MaryNascent). Construction started underGian Galeazzo Visconti, most likely1386, and its origins are legendary:the story is that the devil appeared tothe lord of Milan one night, offeringto save his life if he would build ahuge church in which Satans imageappears repeatedly. And the 96 Satanicgargoyles confirm the story

Construction continued until the 19thcentury, and in fact the people of Milanstill speak of tasks that take as long as

the construction of the Duomo.The impressive interior reveals thecathedrals vertical Gothic spirit. Itcontains numerous works of art:the tomb of Gian Giacomo Medici

by Leone Leoni (1563); a woodenchoir (1572-1620); a Holy Nail fromthe Cross of Jesus preserved in atabernacle inside a crucifix above thechoir; a number of 15th and 16th

century stained glass windows; theCandelabro Trivulzio, a bronze worklargely of Gothic manufacture, of theGerman school; a Sundial; the Scuroloof San Carlo by Richini (1606) withan urn containing the body of Carlo

Borromeo.San Lorenzo Maggiore [> p. 12]Corso di Porta Ticinese 39. Preceeded

by an Imperial Roman colonnade, the

basilica is a truly striking sight.Its essential features are those of alate 17th century church, but as it was


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Left: the greatRenaissance tribuneon the church ofSanta Maria delleGraziewas built byLudovico il Moro as afamily tomb.Left, above: theinterior of the churchof San Maurizio,

with frescoes byprominent 16 centuryLombard artists.Bottom, left: the churchof San Sepolcro, theBaroque style interiorwas completedunder the guidanceof Cardinal FedericoBorromeo; the faadehowever, underwentalterations in the

late 1800s andwas transformedinto LombardRomanesque style.

of Milan

built incorporating a paleochristianbuilding, it is considered the mostimportant surviving testimony of

Roman and paleochristian Milan. In itscentral interior, it is worth visiting thechapel of SantAquilino with its 4thcentury mosaics.

San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore[> p. 12]Corso Magenta 15. The church is a16th century jewel, completely covered

with frescoes on the inside, mostly byBernardino Luini.San Nazaro MaggiorePiazza San Nazaro in Brolo 5. One ofthe four basilicas founded by BishopAmbrose (382-386 A.D.), and one of the

oldest in the city; the majority of theexisting structure is original. Before it is

According to anancient tradition,

the Duomo is whererisotto alla milanese wasborn, invented by aboy who worked for thestained glass artist Valeriodi Fiandra, nicknamedzafferano for his habitof adding spices to hiscolours. One day he putsome saffron in the riceas well, and the resultwas a great success!

the Trivulzio chapel (1512-1520 A.D.),mausoleum of the commander GianGiacomo Trivulzio, buried here with histwo wives. On the stone is a Latin text

which some historians have translatedinto Milanese: L staa mai cont i manin man (he never did sit idle).

San Sepolcro [> p. 12]Piazza San Sepolcro. Built in 1030in the Forum of Roman Milan, it

was rebuilt by the founders great-grandson when he got back fromthe first crusade (1096-1099) inimitation of the Holy Sepulchre of

Jerusalem. The sarcophagus in thecentre of the nave is said to containsoil from the Holy City brought back

by the Crusaders and a lock of MaryMagdalenes hair.

Amidst your stones and your mists/I holiday. I rest

in Piazza / del Duomo. Instead of stars/it lights

up with words every night... Umberto Saba, Milano


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The Great Churches of Milan5

San SimplicianoPiazza San Simpliciano 7.The last of the four basilicas St.Ambrose had built on the outskirts ofthe city. Of Romanesque construction,founded in the 4th century andrebuilt in the 19th century, it contains

a fresco by Bergognone, Coronationof the Virgin (1515). Organ concertsare regularly held here.Basilica di SantAmbrogio [> p. 13]Piazza SantAmbrogio 15. BishopAmbrose founded the basilica in 379as a basilica Martyrum on the tombsof Saints Gervasius and Protasius and

was himself buried here in 397. Itscurrent Romanesque appearance is

the result of thorough changes andreconstructions between the 9th and

12th centuries as well as modernrestoration work.

Before the basilica is the solemn foyerof Ansperto, concealing the facadefrom passersby on the street. Inside thechurch are a 10th century ciboriumabove the gold altar, a masterpiece ofthe Carolingian goldsmiths art, andthe crypt. The apse is decorated with a

big 6th to 8th century mosaic.

SantEustorgio [> p. 13]Piazza SantEustorgio. Behind thefacade, redone in Romanesque stylein 1862-1865, stands another veryimportant and ancient place of

worship. The basilica is a stratifiedconstruction including parts fromthe 7th, 11th and 12th centuries.

Linked with the worship and relics ofthe Three Wise Men, which tradition

would have brought to the city by St.Eustorgius, the church is the end pointof the parade of the Three Wise Men

that starts at the Duomo at Epiphany.The bell tower also recalls the Three

Wise Men, for in place of the cross ithas an 8-tipped star like the one thatguided them to Bethlehem at its tip.Since 2011, the facade and the chapelshave been permanently lit up at night.

But the true jewel of the basilica isthe Portinari Chapel, the highlightof Renaissance architecture in Milan,entirely covered with frescoes, withthe upper parts by Vincenzo Foppa(1466-1468).Santa Maria delle Grazie [> p. 14/26]Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2.A splendid example of Renaissancearchitecture, best known for Leonardo

da Vincis Last Supper, the Cenacolodi Leonardo[> p. 14/26], with an

imposing Renaissance tribune addedin 1492.In the oldest part of the church (in theGothic style) are frescoes by Gaudenzio

Ferrari and Marco dOggiono, aswell as a monument to Ludovico ilMoro. The 15th century Madonnadelle Grazie in the left chapel of thetribune was much venerated duringthe plagues of the 16th and 17th

century. In the chapel on the rightwas Titians Crowning with thorns,which the French took to Paris in thelate 18th century, now in the Louvre.A door on the left leads to a littlecloister attributed to Bramante.Santa Maria IncoronataCorso Giuseppe Garibaldi 116. It hasa bipartite facade which is reflected inthe interior with its twin naves. The

two buildings were probably originallyseparate and only joined together lateron (1484).

Next to thebasilica of

SantAmbrogio isa Roman column.According to thelegend, the two holesin it were made bythe devils hornswhen he was nailedhere by St. Ambrose.

In a compartmentin the Portinari

chapel is an urncontaining the skull ofSt. Peter the Martyr,who traditionally

protects againstheadache. TheInquisition took placein the nearby convent.


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Left: the dome of thePortinari Chapelin the basilica ofSantEustorgio.The frescoes concealedunder seven layers ofplaster were restored totheir original splendourby restoration workbetween 1952 and 1965.

Lower left: the interiorof the basilica ofSan Simplicianocontains the relicsof three martyrs:Sisinius, Martirius andAlessandro.Lower right: theAnsperto foyer, amajestic courtyardflanked by double

arcades leadingto the basilica ofSantAmbrogio.


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ARENGARIO

CASA DEGLI OMENONI

CASA DI MANZONI

CASA FONTANA

SILVESTRI

GRATTACIELO PIRELLI

PALAZZO BAGATTI

VALSECCHI

PALAZZO BELGIOIOSO

PALAZZO BORROMEO

PALAZZO CASTIGLIONI

PALAZZO CLERICI

PALAZZO DEI

GIURECONSULTI

PALAZZO DEL SENATO

PALAZZO DELLA

RAGIONE

The twin Arengariobuildings in Piazza del

Duomo.

The BuildingsMilans buildings are part of the cityscultural heritage, telling the citys

long history in different styles fordifferent ages.

Arengario[> p. 10/30]Piazza Duomo.The twin pavilions ofthe Arengario were designed in thethirties to give the piazza a moremonumental appearance. They now

house the Museo del Novecento.Casa degli Omenoni [> p. 17]

Via Omenoni 3.Eight statues of men(omenoni) decorate the facade of the16th century residence of Charles Vssculptor, Leone Leoni.Casa di Alessandro Manzoni

Via Morone 1.The home where thewriter lived with his family between1814 and 1873, now containing the

Museo Manzoniano.Casa Fontana SilvestriCorso Venezia 10.A Renaissance

palace (1475), one of Milans oldesthomes, with a beautiful courtyard and14th century ruins.Grattacielo Pirelli [> p. 30]Piazza Duca dAosta.Home to the offices

of the Region of Lombardy since 1978.

127 metres high, it was designed by Gio

Ponti and associates in collaboration with

Pier Luigi Nervi. On 18 April 2002 a small

plane crashed into the skyscraper; a

memorial on the 26th floor commemoratesthe victims of the accident.

Palazzo Bagatti ValsecchiVia Santo Spirito 10/via Ges 5.A19th century home built to imitate a16th century palace, now containingthe Museo Bagatti Valsecchi.Palazzo Belgioioso[> p. 17]Piazza Belgioioso 1.A neoclassical

work built in 1772-81 by Piermarini,

inspired by Luigi Vanvitellis Reggia diCaserta. Considered one of the citysarchitectural treasures.

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PALAZZO DELLESTELLINE

PALAZZO DI

GIUSTIZIA

PALAZZO DUGNANI

PALAZZO LITTA

PALAZZO LOMBARDIA

PALAZZO MARINO

PALAZZO

MEZZANOTTE

PALAZZO REALE

PALAZZO SAPORITI

TORRE VELASCA

VILLA NECCHI

CAMPIGLIO

VILLA REALE

6


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Palazzo BorromeoPiazza Borromeo 10.An example of ahome in the Gothic style, with late Gothicfrescoes in one of the rooms inside (private,

but open to visitors on appointment only).Palazzo Castiglioni [> p. 16]Corso Venezia 47.By GiuseppeSommaruga (1900-1904), is the emblemof Italian Art Nouveau.Palazzo Clerici

Via Clerici 5.Home to ISPI, the Institutefor International Political Studies, this18th century building has a TapestryGallery with a vaulted ceiling featuringfrescoes by Tiepolo (1741); on the wallsare four 17th century tapestries. Guidedtours may be booked at www.ispionline.itPalazzo dei Giureconsulti [> p. 13]Piazza Mercanti.All that remains of theoriginal building constructed in 1561

is the name, for the building has beenrepeatedly renovated and now housesthe citys Chamber of Commerce.

Palazzo del SenatoVia Senato 10.Built in the 17th century,

it was home to the Senate under

Napoleons rule and now contains the

National Archives. Across from the building

is a bronze sculpture by Joan Mir.

Palazzo della Ragione[> p. 13]Piazza Mercanti.Also known as Broletto

Nuovo, a true symbol of the Middle Agesin Lombardy. Built in 1233, it contained

the offices of the City until 1789. It hasa single majestic hall: the Sala della

Ragione. Across from it is theLoggiadegli Osii, built in1316, the loggia from

which the magistrates proclaimed theiredicts and sentences.Palazzo delle StellineCorso Magenta 61. A 16th centurypalace which is now a landmark for the

citys cultural life and congresses. It was

originally the Ospedale dei mendicanti,a charitable institution which became thecitys principal orphanage for girls. The

Clockwise: thegrand staircase ofPalazzo Castiglioni;the Valtellina stylebedroom in MuseoBagatti-Valsecchi;the rococo facadeof Palazzo Litta;the Alessi room inPalazzo Marinoand the currentreception hall.

of MilanMan has never looked so small

as in the Galleria

Franz Kafka

Alessi hall

in Palazzo

Marino is where

Manzonis remains

lay in state in 1873.


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The Buildings of Milan6

term stella, star, is still used in Milan torefer to little girls. The building nowcontains Museo Martinitt e Stelline,documenting the orphanage.Palazzo di GiustiziaCorso di Porta Vittoria 20.Piacentiniand Rapisardi built this building in

1932-1940 in response to the fascistregimes demand for monumentalconstructions: it contains 1,200 roomsand 65 courtrooms arranged on fourlevels around a monumental courtyard.Palazzo Dugnani [> p. 17/36]

Via Manin 2.An 18th century palacecontaining a ballroom decorated withfrescoes by Tiepolo (open to visitors onappointment only). One of the most

popular buildings for parties and gatheringsof nobles between 1758 and 1846.

Palazzo LittaCorso Magenta 24.Built in 1648

by Francesco Maria Richini, with abeautiful rococo facade and a dramaticarcaded courtyard.Palazzo Lombardia

Via Restelli, via Melchiorre Gioia.This impressive building by Pei Cobb

Freed, Caputo and SD Partners, is themain seat of the Lombardy Regional

government. At the top of the towerthere is a statue of the Madonnina(a smaller copy of the one on the

Duomo), which had always saton top of the Pirelli Tower.Palazzo Marino [> p. 10]Piazza della Scala 2.A palace built in1558 for tax collector Tomaso Marinowhich then became the seat of thecity government until 1860. The wall

overlooking Teatro alla Scala dates from1889. This is where the Nun of Monzain Manzonis The Betrothed was born.

Palazzo Mezzanotte [> p. 12]Piazza degli Affari.Historic home to theStock Exchange, built in 1931 by Paolo

Mezzanotte on the site of an ancientRoman theatre dating back to the age ofAugustine.Palazzo Reale [> p. 10/16]

Piazza del Duomo 12.A 14th centurydukes palace converted to its currentform by Piermarini (1778). One of Milansmost important exhibition centres; in1951 Pablo Picasso chose it as the sitefor his Guernica, as an emblem of thedestruction of war, as the building hadbeen heavily bombed In 1943 and lost allthe decorations in its halls.Torre Velasca [> p. 30]

Piazza Velasca 5.A 26 floor skyscraperbuilt in 1956 -1957 by studio BBPR (Banfi,

Belgiojoso, Peressutti, Rogers). Itsunusual shape makes it a well-knownlandmark on the citys skyline. It was addedto the protected buildings list in 2011.

Villa Necchi Campiglio [> p. 30]Via Mozart 14.Designed by the Milanesearchitect Portaluppi (1932-1935), thismuseum-home is an example of a Rationaliststyle private villa from the Thirties. It housesa collection of early 20th century art works

by Claudia Gian Ferrari. It is owned by theFAI Fondo per lAmbiente Italiano.Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte or Villa Reale[> p. 17/31]Via Palestro 16.An outstanding example ofMilanese neoclassical architecture, built in1790 by Leopold Pollack, the villa has acourtyard on the side facing the street, whileits facade provides the backdrop for anEnglish-style garden. It was home to Napoleon

and Eugenio di Beauharnais, as well asRadetzky, who died there (1857-1858). Itnow contains the Galleria di Arte Moderna.

Two otherimportant

sixteenth centurybuildings: PalazzoIsimbardi (CorsoMonforte 35), theheadquarters of theMilan provincialgovernment whichhouses a painting byGiovanbattista Tiepolo,and Palazzo Sormani(Corso di Porta Vittoria6) which is home to

the Milan CentralPublic Library withits interestingSala del Grechetto.


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Left: Giovanni BattistaTiepolos 1731frescoes decorate theballroom in PalazzoDugnani.Lower left: one ofthe inner courtyardsin the 17th centuryPalazzo del Senato.The double orderof loggias wassomething truly newat the time, and wasvery well received.Lower right: thehome of AlessandroManzoni wherethe author is said tohave held spiritualistsessions andexperiments with

magnetism, much invogue at the time.


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CASA MUSEO BOSCHI

DI STEFANO

CENACOLO VINCIANO

CIVICO MUSEO

ARCHEOLOGICO

GALLERIE DITALIA

MUSEO INTERATTIVO

DEL CINEMA

MUSEI DEL CASTELLO

SFORZESCO

MUSEO BAGATTI

VALSECCHI

MUSEO DEL DUOMO

MUSEO DEL 900

MUSEO DELLA

PERMANENTE

MUSEO DIOCESANO

MUSEO INTER E MILAN

Basket of fruit

(1594-1598) a work byCaravaggio on exhibitin the PinacotecaAmbrosiana.

The Museums

How many museums are there inMilan? A lot! The city offers unique

glimpses of every form of culture, fromfigurative art to the sciences, from

ancient history to the recent past.

Casa Museo Boschi Di StefanoVia Jan 15. Contains a selection of morethan 200 works donated to the City ofMilan: masterpieces by Carr, Fontana,

De Chirico, Sironi, De Pisis, Boccioni...Cenacolo di Leonardo [> p. 14/20]Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie.The dining hall of the monastery Santa

Maria delle Grazie contains one of Italysbest-known masterpieces of art: LeonardoDa Vincis The Last Supper (1495-1497),on the UNESCO World Heritage List since1980. May be viewed with reservations only.Civico Museo Archeologico [> p. 12]

Corso Magenta 15.Archaeologicalfinds from Roman and medieval Milan,

with an Etruscan section, a Greek

section, an Early Middle Ages sectionand a special exhibition on music.Gallerie dItalia

Via Manzoni 10.The Fondazione Cariploand Intesa Sanpaolo collections are housedin the halls of Palazzo Anguissola, PalazzoBrentani and in the historical headquartersof the Banca Commerciale. These includeworks by 19th Italian masters as wellas a section dedicated to 20th century

masterpieces.Museo interattivo del Cinema (MIC)

Viale Fulvio Testi 121. Interactive filmmuseum featuring exhibits about theorigins of film, images from some ofthe many films made in Milan, games.Musei del Castello Sforzesco [> p. 14]Piazza Castello.Its art collections are whatmake Castello Sforzesco a top culturalattraction. Worth seeing: Museo dArte

Antica(ancient sculptures from Lombardyand elsewhere, from the 4th to the 16thcentury; Michelangelos Piet Rondanini);

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7MUSEO E CASA

DI ALESSANDRO

MANZONI

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI

MUSEO STUDIO

FRANCESCO MESSINA

MUSEO TEATRALE

ALLA SCALA

PALAZZO MORANDO

COSTUME MODA

IMMAGINE

PINACOTECA

DI BRERA

MUSEO DEL

RISORGIMENTO

VENERANDA

BIBLIOTECA

AMBROSIANA

WOW SPAZIO

FUMETTO

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Pinacoteca(230 13th to 18th century Italianpaintings, mainly from Lombardy and the Veneto);Museo della Preistoria e Protostoria (museumof prehistory); Museo Egizio(Egyptianmuseum); Museo degli Strumenti Musicali(museum of 15th to 20th century musicalinstruments); Civiche Raccolte dArte

Applicata (collections of applied arts: ivory,glass, majolica and ceramics and the Arazzidei Mesi Trivulzio 16th century tapestries).Museo Bagatti Valsecchi

Via S. Spirito 10 / via Ges 5. In one ofEuropes best preserved museum homes,splendid 15th and 16th century artefactsand an unusual collection of fireplaces.Museo del Duomo

Piazza Duomo 12.Reopened in 2013 with

a major new exhibition, it illustrates andhighlights the history of the cathedral.

Left: Leonardos LastSupper. It is a miraclethat we can still seethe fresco, for inAugust 1943 a bombdestroyed most of thechurch, leaving intactonly the wooden wall

protecting Leonardosfresco.Lower left: thecourtyard ofPalazzo di Brerawith the statue ofNapoleon depictedas a victorious nudedemi-god in itscentre.Lower right: Portraitof a Girl, Pollaiolos

best preserved andone of his mostsuccessful portraits, inMuseo Poldi Pezzoli.

of MilanThe Last Supper is amazing,

comparable only to the frescoes of antiquity...

Rainer Maria Rilke

Leonardo daVinci worked on

The Last Supperalternating intensesessions with longabsences, and thePrior of the churchcomplained toLudovico il Moro thathe was not workingvery hard.

Museo del Novecento

Palazzo dellArengario, Via Marconi 1.

400 selected works of 20th century

Italian art belonging to the Civic Art

Collections of the City of Milan.

Museo della Permanente

Via Turati 34.A vast collection of

works from the late 19th and 20thcenturies and a specialised library

documenting the history of the

Societ per le Belle Arti ed Esposizione

Permanente, an important institution

on the art scene in Milan.

Museo Diocesano

Corso di Porta Ticinese 95.The basilicaand cloisters of SantEustorgio containtreasures of art and artefacts testifying

to the faith of the people of the diocese.Works from the museum of the Basilica di


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The Museums of Milan7

SantAmbrogio and the Fondi Oro A. Crespicollection (about 40 14th and 15th centuryTuscan and Umbrian paintings on wood).Museo Inter e MilanPiazzale Angelo Moratti - Stadio San Siro.The first museum in an Italian footballstadium, telling the story of the citys two

teams, Inter and Milan, through uniquememorabilia (shirts, cups, trophies).Museo e Casa di Alessandro Manzoni

Via Gerolamo Morone 1.A museumin the home where writer Alessandro

Manzoni lived.

Museo Poldi PezzoliVia Manzoni 12.A typical Milanesemuseum-home. The collection includes

14th to 19th century paintings and

great masterpieces by Pollaiolo,Botticelli, Piero della Francesca

Museo Studio Francesco MessinaEx Chiesa di San Sisto, Via San Sisto4/A.80 sculptures and 26 works onpaper selected from among Francesco

Messinas most important works.

Museo Teatrale alla ScalaLargo Ghiringhelli 1.Vintage prints,artefacts, costumes and scenery sketches,

to find out all about the theatre in the

19th century.

Palazzo MorandoCostume Moda Immagine

Via SantAndrea 6.Major collections offabrics, clothes and accessories originallyincluded in the Civiche Raccolte dArteApplicata in Castello Sforzesco and itemsfrom the vast collection of the former

Museo di Milano (paintings, sculptures,prints on the evolution of urbanplanning and society in Milan in the late

18th century and the 19th century).Pinacoteca di Brera [> p. 11]

Via Brera 28.One of Italys biggest

collections of paintings, primarily

works from the Lombard and Venetian

schools of the 15th and 16th century.

Established in the late 18th century

as a collection of models for students

at the Accademia, it now includes

more than 400 works spanning from

the 14th century to the avant-gardemovements. It contains numerous

masterpieces including, to mention

only a few: Mantegnas Lamentation

of Christ, Bellinis Piet, Tintorettos

Finding of the body of St. Mark,

Raphaels The Marriage of the Virgin,

Caravaggios Supper at Emmaus...

Museo del RisorgimentoVia Borgonuovo 23.In 18th century

Palazzo Moriggia, Italian historybetween 1796 and 1870.

Veneranda Biblioteca AmbrosianaPinacoteca AmbrosianaPiazza Pio XI 2.The size and value of itscollections make the Biblioteca Ambrosianaone of the worlds oldest and mostcomplete historic libraries. It includes the

Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, established byFederico Borromeo in 1618, which nowhas more than 2,000 paintings, sculpturesand fittings, gold items, natural artefacts

and various products of the applied arts,as well as more than 22,000 drawings.It includes universally recognisedmasterpieces such as the precious cartoonfor Raphaels School of Athens andPortrait of a Musician, Leonardos onlypainting on wood made in Milan.WOW Spazio Fumetto

Viale Campania 12.In 2011Fondazione Franco Fossati opened

this original space for exhibitions,events, courses and workshops focusing

on the ninth art: cartoons.

Other places ofconsiderable

interest are: theLeonardo Iconmonument by DanielLibeskind which wasinaugurated in thepedestrianised piazzaPio XI opposite thePinacoteca Ambrosiana;the nearby

Mangini BonomiMuseumHome (ViadellAmbrosiana 20)which houses acollection of objectsfrom Western historyand culture; TheHolocaust Memorial,inaugurated in 2013inside the Milan CentralStation in front ofPlatform 21, which

is where hundredsMilanese Jew weredeported to variousconcentration camps.


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Left: the hall in the towerin the Arengariodedicated to LucioFontana, containinghis Struttura al neon(1951).Bottom left: thePiet RondaninibyMichelangelo, now inthe Musei del Castelloand on the verge ofbeing re-housed inthe halls of the formerSpanish Hospital. Thisappears to be theartists last sculpturewhich he worked onuntil a few days beforehis death.Lower right: the 18thcentury Gallerie

dItalia in PalazzoAnguissola AntonaTraversi.


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During the early 20th century, the architectureof Milan was deeply transformed bymodernism and by modernity, moving fromthe decorative Art Nouveau to the sleekerArt Deco. The Stazione Centrale, designed

by Ulisse Stacchini in 1912, epitomises thistransition. The thirties were a time ofmonumental architecture, as can be seenin the public buildings Palazzo di Giustizia[> p. 24], Arengario [> p. 10/22] and

Palazzo dellArte, hometo the Triennale,and in the privateVilla Necchi Campiglio[> p. 24], noted for its elegant purity ofline. The search for a new style that wouldrepresent the citys economic rebirth,exalting its modernity and functionality,lead to the construction of the Torre

Velasca[> p. 24] in 1958 (close to theUniversit Statale, at the end of via Larga)and of the Grattacielo Pirelli(1955-60)

[> p. 22].The new millennium has brought withit an era of growth for the capital of

Lombardy, a growth which touches allareas of society and which sees theinvolvement of some of the greatestexponents of national and internationalarchitecture. Contemporary beautyand historical charm are the leitmotifsof the citys great renovation projectsinvolving former brownfield sites. Thecitys traditional landmarks of fashion,creativity, study, opera, contemporary art,

technology, transport, business andfinance, have been, and continue to

be, flanked by a series of new centresinvolving entire areas of the city. TheBovisaCertosaproject has been injected

with a new lease of life thanks to the newPolitecnico site; the City Lifeproject isredesigning the historical Fiera area, as wellas the World Join Centrein Portello.Other projects which have already changed

the face of the city include the Bicocca exPirelliarea (where the industrial past of thearea forms the backdrop to the Universit

GAM

TRIENNALE DESIGNMUSEUM

EX AREA ANSALDO

FABBRICA DEL VAPORE(STEAM FACTORY)

HANGAR BICOCCA

PAC

ROTONDAIN VIA BESANA

SPAZIO OBERDAN

Contemporary Art

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Needle, thread and

knot, a sculpture byClaes Oldenburg andCoosje van Bruggenat the centre ofPiazzale Cadorna,

is an unusualreference to theindustriousness andfashion soul of Milan.

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in Milan

Left: the 106m tallTorre Velascacontainsoffices and shops onthe lower floors andapartments on theupper floors.Centre: the GrattacieloPirelli, known locallyas the Pirellone,was the highestbuilding in Milanfor almost 50 years.

Right: PalazzoLombardia, thenew site of RegioneLombardia.

degli Studi, several important researchcentres, the Teatro degli Arcimboldi and theheadquarters of numerous companies), theNuovo Polo Fieristico di Rho-Pero (theRho-Pero Exhibition Centre)and the newGaribaldi-Repubblicaskyline (the Porta

Nuova project with the Milan BusinessPark, Piazza Gae Aulenti and the UniCreditTower, the tallest building in Italy with itsimpressive 231 m), the redevelopment of

Piazza XXV Aprile(now home to the Eatalymegastore, on the site of the historicalTeatro Smeraldo).In this context, Expo

Milano 2015 will serve as a driving force tocreate a more attractive city with a centralrole in international social and economicdevelopment.

Ever forward-looking, Milan keeps akeen eye on new artistic trends, and

prides itself on its innovative exhibitionspaces. Future projects include theMuseo di Arte Contemporanea (MAC)

in the residential and business districtcurrently under construction, City Life.

GAM Galleria dArte ModernaVia Palestro 16. A visit to the GAMgallery is a two-fold pleasure, enablingpatrons to enjoy the interiors ofVillaReale[> p. 17/24]and admire hundredsof paintings from one of the richestcollections of 19th century art in Italy

(Museo dellOttocento, Museum of19th Century Art). The exhibition opens

with Neoclassicism, moving throughRomanticism, Realism and theScapigliatura movement, to end with

Divisionism. With time the Gallery hasbeen enriched with the addition of theGrassi Collection(works by 19th and20th century Italian and foreign artists),theVismara Collection(masterpieces of

modern and contemporary Italian andforeign artists from Picasso to Morandi)and the Marino Marini Collection

Skyscrapers have transformed the lives of the Milanese

Alberto Savinio, Ascolto il tuo cuore, citt (Listen to your heart, city)


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Contemporary Art in Milan8

(which provides an insight into theartists career through an overview of hissculptures; now housed in the Museodel Novecento, the Twentieth Century

Museum).Triennale Design Museum

Viale Alemagna 6. Opened in 2007, this

is the first and only museum dedicatedto Italian design in all its manifestations.The Triennale Design Museum, a uniquemuseum of its kind in Italy, situated onthe historical premises of the Triennale,continuously renews itself, offering evernew and diversified exhibitions.

In addition to the traditional exhibitionspaces of the Palazzo Reale, Museo del

Novecento (Museum of 20th CenturyArt), Palazzo della Ragione and Castello

Sforzesco, Milan offers countlessexperimental venues for young talentsand every form of artistic expression.

Ex Area AnsaldoVia Tortona 54. The 70,000 sq.m formerAnsaldo factory side now houses theMuseo delle Culture del Mondo, TheMuseum of World Cultures(which

will be inaugurated with Expo 2015),

which features a series of interculturalexhibitions and multimedia projects.Fabbrica del Vapore (Steam Factory)

Via Procaccini 4. The Milan City Councilconceived this facility especially for its

wyounger generations. The formersteam engine and tram factory has

been transformed into a creativeworkshop offering a full scheduleof exhibitions and educational and

cultural initiatives throughout the year.Hangar Bicocca

Via Chiese 2.A former industrial plant

painted entirely in dark blue, home tocontemporary art exhibitions, researchprojects and training sessions. Thepermanent installation, I Sette PalazziCelesti (The Seven Heavenly Palaces)

by Anselm Kiefer, is well worth a visit.PAC Padiglione di Arte

ContemporaneaVia Palestro 16.The PACis situatedin a courtyard of the Villa Reale, oncehome to stables destroyed during the

war. Designed by Ignazio Gardella(1948-1954), it was rebuilt by thearchitect, following the original design,after it was almost destroyed bya deadly mafia bomb in 1993. The

venue organises exclusively temporary

exhibitions featuring a wide range ofwell-established international artists.

Rotonda in Via BesanaVia Enrico Besana 12. This typically18th century monument was builtin 1695 as a cemetery for the deadof the Ospedale Maggiore, a largehospital that was housed in the nearbyCaGranda. It comprises the Chiesa diSan Michele surrounded by a circulararcade. Home to the MUBA - Museodei Bambini, the Childrens Museum,

which organises exhibitions-games,events and creative workshopsdedicated to children.Spazio Oberdan

Viale Vittorio Veneto 2. One of thebest known multifunctional centresin Milan, organising artistic projectsof international repute. The exhibitionhall is situated on the first floor.The venue comprises a 700 sq.m

exhibition area for art and photographyexhibitions and a 200-seat auditoriumhosting film reviews.

Other locationsintended to

showcase works byartists and Milanesecultural icons includethe FondazioneArnoldo Pomodoro in

its new premises inVia Vigevano 9, which,as well as housing thepermanent collectionof the sculptures works,also holds temporaryexhibitions, and theStudio Museo AchilleCastiglioni in PiazzaCastello 27, where thebackdrop and theplethora of pieces on

display tell the storyof the professionalcareer of thisimportant designer.

Importantmoments in the

social and cultural lifeof the city includeevents such as MiArt,the International Fairof Modern andContemporary Art

which is held inFieramilanocity inMarch, and the Salonedel Mobile, the MilanInternational FurnitureFair, which with theFuorisalone eventsbrings design to theforefront in April forthose in and outsidethe industry.


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Left: the new buildingof the UniversitCommerciale LuigiBocconi, winner ofthe World Buildingof the Year Award.Lower left: entranceto Palazzo dellArte,home to the Triennale,built between1932 and 1933.Lower right:

Hangar Bicocca, anexhibition, researchand training centre;below, the Fabbricadel Vapore, a youthcentre for cultural

production.


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With Italys largest Science andTechnology Museum, Milan has a

scientific side which children adore andadults find amazing.

Acquario Civicoand Stazione Idrobiologica

Viale Gadio 2. One of the oldestaquariums in the world and housed inan Art Nouveau building adorned with

aquatic themed external decorations, itis the only remaining trace of the MilanInternational Expo of 1906. Here thereare more than one hundred differentaquatic species from the MediterraneanSea, the Red Sea and Italian freshwaterrivers and lakes. In addition,educational routes teach visitorsabout the water cycle and fishing.On the same site as the aquarium

are the Stazione Idrobiologica anda Biblioteca (Library) specializing inmarine biology and aquatic sciences.

Civico Museo di Storia Naturale [> p. 36]Corso Venezia 55. The Natural History

Museum preserves animals, fossils,dinosaurs, spectacular colourfuldioramas and plastic reconstructions,in Italys most significant collection ofits kind. A few must-sees are a 20mlong whale skeleton that was foundon the coasts of Sardinia and a modelof a pteranodon, a flying reptile from

70 million years ago which hangs fromthe ceiling. The specialized librarycontains 30,000 books, 200 periodicalsand 60,000 booklets; the prominentcollections of insects, birds, minerals,rocks and fossils are especially intendedfor scholars.Civico Planetario Ulrico Hoepli [> p. 36]Corso Venezia 57.Built in 1929 by

Piero Portaluppi, on behalf of the

publisher Ulrich Hoepli who thendonated it to the city, the Planetariumconsists of a large domed room with

ACQUARIO CIVICO

AND STAZIONE

IDROBIOLOGICA

CIVICO MUSEO DI

STORIA NATURALE

CIVICO PLANETARIO

ULRICO HOEPLI

MUSEO

ASTRONOMICO

DI BRERA

MUSEO NAZIONALE

DELLA SCIENZA E

DELLA TECNOLOGIA

LEONARDO DA VINCI

ORTO BOTANICO

DI BRERA

Milan: a City

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TheEnrico Totisubmarine is thefirst submarinebuilt in Italy afterWorld War II. It cannow be seen at theMuseo Nazionaledella Scienza e dellaTecnologia.

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The Navigli, canals lined by narrowalleyways and traditional houses

with communal balconies, and thecitys green oases, with their picnic,

entertainment and sports areas,preserve the feel of yesteryear Milan.

Giardino della GuastallaVia Guastalla. This well concealedsecret corner was once annexed to

the Guastalla college for girls. Age-oldtrees provide the backdrop for the fishpond with stone balustrades, a jewelof Baroque architecture. The Jewishtemple (1890-92) is situated oppositethe entrance.Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelliex Giardini Pubblici di Porta VeneziaBastioni di Porta Venezia, via Manin,via Palestro, corso Venezia. This was

the first park of Milan designed forpublic use. Created by Piermarini inthe late 18th century, the park

underwent several refurbishmentsthroughout the years. In 2002it was renamed after the late

journalist Indro Montanelli(1909-2001). The park comprisesa number of important buildings,such as the Palazzo Dugnani[> p. 17/24]; the Civico Museo diStoria Naturale[> p. 34]and thePlanetario Ulrico Hoepli [> p. 34].

Giardino della Villa BelgiojosoBonaparte ex Giardino della VillaComunale

Via Palestro. This is one of the earliestEnglish-style gardens in Milan,created at the request of the count

Lodovico Barbiano of Belgiojoso, animportant member of the Milanesenobility and of the Hapsburg court.It is entirely devoted to children

and accompanying adults. A smallwaterfall gushes out of the rocksand trickles down into a stream that

GIARDINODELLA GUASTALLA

GIARDINI PUBBLICIINDRO MONTANELLI EXGIARDINI PUBBLICI DIPORTA VENEZIA

GIARDINO DELLA VILLA

COMUNALE

PARCO GIOVANNIPAOLO II EX PARCODELLE BASILICHE

PARCO SEMPIONE

THE CANALS (NAVIGLI)

Parks and

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The Alzaia delNaviglio Grandestill offers a glimpseof the Milan ofyesteryear. TheNavigli were thefirst examples ofhydraulic engineeringin Lombardy(12th century). Itsinnovative systemof locks, still visibletoday, was partlyconceived byLeonardo da Vinci.

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NavigliTop: the monumentalfacade of the

Villa BelgiojosoBonaparte, orVillaReale.Top left: a tree-linedpath through theGiardini PubbliciIndro Montanelli.Top right: the viewfrom the balustradesof the fish pond in

the Giardino dellaGuastallaspansacross the lawns, asfar as the city.

crosses the park, ending in a smalllake featuring an island with a smallcircular temple.Parco Giovanni Paolo IIex Parco delle Basiliche

Via Molino delle Armi. The park isnestled between the basilicas of San

Lorenzo and SantEustorgio. It wasdeveloped in 1953 with the idea ofcreating an archaeological walkway

uniting the apses of these twoimportant churches.Parco SempionePiazza Castello. The largest English-style park in Milan is entirely fencedin and includes numerous recreationalareas. It owes its name to its positionalong the line that leads through theArco della Pace, from the Duomoto the Simplon Pass. The Castello

Sforzesco, Arena, Arco della Pace,Triennale and Acquario Civico standalong the parks perimeter.

The Canals (Navigli)Although far from Italys great riversand seas, Milan, like Venice, was formany centuries a navigable city dueto an intricate system of canals thatonce crisscrossed the city. Back then,the city had a circular canal theCerchia dei Navigli connectedto three small ports: Santo Stefano(now Piazza Santo Stefano), San

Marco (Piazza San Marco) andSantEustorgio, which later becamethe Darsena di Porta Ticinese (Basinof Porta Ticinese). Connected tothe Cerchia dei Navigli through theConca dei Navigli, still visible todayin the street of the same name, the

Darsenas waters flow in from theNaviglio Grandeand then out againinto the Naviglio Pavese(the two

canals flow in opposite directions),thus creating a water circuit thatfor centuries constituted the citys

...the Naviglio is worth 50 gold ducats, and

yields 125,000 ducats a year. It is 40 miles long

and 20 ells wide... Leonardo Da Vinci


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Parks and Navigli

main means of provisioning andtrade, through flat-bottomed bargesdrawn by horses (or men, whenrequired) along the so-called Alzaie,or towpaths. Today, the first stretchof the Naviglio Grande the oldestof the two navigable canals, dating

back to the 13th century stillfeatures its characteristic low-riseperiod buildings, and is enlivened

by numerous venues, pubs andrestaurants, making it one of thecitys trendiest areas.On the last Sunday of every monthit hosts an open-air antiques fair.

Further along the Alzaia del NaviglioGrande lies theVicolo dei Lavandai,

a narrow alleyway featuring oldstone washtubs. Heading in the

direction of the suburbs, one comesupon the attractive church of SanCristoforo al Naviglio, made up oftwo buildings, one Romanesque andthe other Gothic. Boatmen travellingfrom the Ticino River used toconsider the churchs 15th century

bell tower a lighthouse indicatingthe proximity of Milan.The Naviglio Paveseflows out of

the Darsena for a stretch of 33 km,where it flows into the Ticino River,close to Pavia. A number of barges,now transformed into bars and pubs,can be seen moored along the left

bank (via Ascanio Sforza). The canalwas made navigable as late as 1819,and along its tract it is still possibleto see12 locks (decommissioned in1978) that allowed the barges to

overcome the 52 metre differencein elevation between the arrival anddeparture points. Along the Naviglio

Pavese, it is worth visiting the ChiesaRossa(or Red Church, named afterits characteristic red bricks), with itsancient and complex history.To the south of the Villoresi canal,the system of Navigli includes theNaviglio della Martesana, or

Naviglio Piccolo(1460), thatconnects Milan to the Adda River,from which it receives its waters.Several cycling paths lie alongthe canal, spanning from via DeMarchi to Cassano dAdda, 30 kmoutside Milan.For the Expo Milan 2015 the citywill redevelop the Darsena docks areawhich will contribute to enhancing

the Milanese canal network as wellas increasing tourism in the area.

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Left: the Arco dellaPace, in the far cornerof the Parco Sempione,is one of Milansmost characteristicNeoclassical monuments.Started in 1807 as atribute to Napoleon, itwas dedicated in 1838to Francis I of Austriaand in 1859 to theindependence of Italy.Bottom, left: thecharming church ofSan Cristoforo sulNaviglio, which standson the banks of theNaviglio Grande.Bottom, right:the Naviglio dellaMartesana, also known

as the Naviglio Piccolo(the small canal).


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CORSO BUENOS AIRES

CORSO DI PORTA

TICINESE

CORSO VITTORIO

EMANUELE II

QUADRILATERO

DELLA MODA

VIA PAOLO SARPI

VIA SAVONA,

VIA TORTONA,

VIA BERGOGNONE

VIA TORINO

Via MonteNapoleone, orMontenapo forMilanese locals, isa symbol of luxury,

exclusive shoppingand is undoubtedlythe most elegantstreet in the city.

ShoppingWhen it comes to shopping in Milan one primarily thinks of fashion; after all,this is nerve centre of the Made in Italy industry. The showrooms of all Italianmanufacturers are located here, and its where buyers for worldwide distributionfind the one and only Italian style. Milanese fashion is about luxury, but italso offers innovative ideas. Outside the fashion district - a must for those who

want to buy designer apparel and accessories - almost everything can be found,from large international brands to small boutiques. But shopping in Milan alsomeans exploring the many localopen-air marketswhere all kinds of goods can

be purchased, from groceries to clothing, and where one can look for furniture,decorative items and works of art amongst the numerous antique shopsin

the Brera and Navigli areas. Not to mention Milans famous culinary classics,recipients of the DE.co denomination (Denominazione Comunale, or Municipal

Denomination) covering typical products such as the cotoletta alla milanese,ossobuco, risotto, cassoeula, and panettone, but also characteristic dishes thatare on the endangered list, so to speak. It is no coincidence, then, that thereare still so many historic shopsin Milan, part of the citys heritage as well as apoint of reference for the Milanese people and tourists.Corso Buenos Aires is 1,200 metres long and has more than 350 shops tomeet everyones needs. It is one of Europes most famous shopping streets.Corso di Porta Ticinese is the right place for those looking for alternative

shops and boutiques, for vintage clothing and ethnic and natural products.Corso Vittorio Emanuele IIis a classic for downtown promenades, which has

been a pedestrian area since 1985. Here youll find numerous shops, especially

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Left: the seventh floorof the Rinascentedepartment store,named by GabrieleDAnnunzio, offers an

amazing view of theDuomos spires.Lower left: there aremany delicatessensin the city that boasta long history. Thebest are those thathave retained theircharm, furniture, styleand service over time.Lower right: in theheart of Milan there

are many innovativeshoppingareascombining fashion,art, beauty and food.

in Milan

Many legendshave flourished

through the centuriesaround the birth of thepane di Toni (literallythe bread of Toni, as itwas called in the 18thcentury), but it wasAngelo Motta who madepanettone a symbolof Milan in the 20thcentury by cooking it ina paper cylinder, givingit its present form.

for clothing and low cost department stores, in addition to Rinascente, thetrue temple of Milanese shopping. With 8 floors, it truly offers everything -even an opportunity to lunch with a close-up view of the Duomos spires.The fashion district: via Monte Napoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spigaandcorso Veneziaare the four streets that make up an imaginary square where theshops and ateliers of the most important names in fashion are concentrated.

First and foremost of these Milanese streets is Monte Napoleone, which is

considered one of the fifteen most luxurious and expensive streets in theworld. Walking in this area is like diving into beauty and unbridled wealth.During the fashion shows, the whole area becomes one big social event, andaristocrats courtyards and buildings are often open to curious visitors.

Via Paolo Sarpiwith its neighbouring via Canonica is MilansChinatown. Theshops are generally less expensive, but offer quality products.

Via Savona, Via Tortona, Via Bergognone are full of pop-up shops, storesthat are open for a limited period of time (a few weeks). It is the perfect areato find quality and trendy pieces, including designer and multi-brand spaces.

Via Torinowas once a street of craftsmens workshops; now it is one of

the major centres of Milanese shopping for all tastes and budgets (withnumerous low-cost clothing chain stores).

To the hastiest observation,

Milan could hardly seem lacking in interest.

Edith Wharton


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Milan is a city that creates its own trends:art galleries in bars, concerts in libraries,

aperitifs in grand hotels - it is a coolcity where there is room for every form of

expression, whether it be opera, theatre,entertainment, music or sports.

MusicSome of the worlds most renowned artistsperform in Milan. Performances (operas,

ballets, concerts) at the Teatro alla Scalaare not to be missed, where the season

begins on 7 December, the day of St.Ambrose, patron saint of Milan. Its stageequipment has been renovated (2001-2004)and now the operatic powerhouse is upto par with the largest theatres in Europeand the world. Offering a more intensivemusical program is the Auditorium, homeof the Orchestra Sinfonica and Coro di

Milano Giuseppe Verdi, the ConservatorioGiuseppe Verdi(auditorium Sala Verdi atthe Conservatorio, Sala Puccini in the

Conservatorio), the Teatro degli Arcimboldi,a one-of-a-kind structure in terms of itsconstruction, acoustics and visuals, theTeatro Dal Vermeand the Teatro Nuovo.

Many concerts are held in churches, mostnotably at the Basilica di San Marco. For

blues and jazz enthusiasts, Blue Noteoffers an excellent selection of concerts,alternating foreign and well-known Italianstars, and historic venues like the Scimmie

and La Salumeria della Musicaare amust for fans of the genre.

Theatres

From theatre to cabaret, Milan offers a vastrange of shows. The Piccolo Teatro diMilano, the first civic theatre in Italy, is aninstitution - actually three, because over the

years, from the primordial Piccolo Teatro onvia Rovello (now called the Teatro Grassi),

it has been accompanied by the TeatroStudioand the Teatro Strehler. They puton in-house productions and host prestigious

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

AUDITORIUM

CONSERVATORIO

GIUSEPPE VERDI

TEATRO DEGLI

ARCIMBOLDI

TEATRO DAL VERME

TEATRO NUOVO

BLUE NOTE

SCIMMIE

LA SALUMERIA DELLA

MUSICA

PICCOLO TEATRO DI

MILANO

TEATRO GRASSI

TEATRO STUDIO

TEATRO STREHLERTEATRO F. PARENTI

Entertainment,

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The Scalas boxes wereall remade except forone, which survived the1943 bombings.

TEATROFILODRAMMATICI

TEATRIDITHALIA

CRT TEATRO DELLARTE

TEATRO CARCANO

TEATRI MANZONI,

NAZIONALE, S. BABILA

TEATRO CIAK

AREA ZELIG CABARET

STADIO SAN SIRO

GIUSEPPE MEAZZA

IPPODROMI SAN SIRO

LIDO DI MILANO

IDROSCALO

ARENA CIVICA

GIANNI BRERA

VELODROMO

VIGORELLI


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Top left: the PiccoloTeatro di MilanoTeatro dEuropa -Teatro Strehler onLargo Greppi.Right: the Teatrodegli Arcimboldi.Lower left: the StadioSan Siro; centre: theCavallo di Leonardo,a large bronzestatue inspired

by Leonardosdrawings, located infront of the ParcodellIppodromo diMilano; right: a jazzshow.

foreign performances, as does the TeatroFranco Parenti. A more traditional repertoiretakes place at the Teatro Filodrammatici,

while more experimental shows take placeat the Teatro dellElfoTeatridithalia andthe CRT Teatro dellArte. Ranging fromdrama, dance, varieties and musicals, arethe Carcano, Manzoni, Nazionale, and SanBabilatheatres. Since 2002 the Teatro della

Luna has become the undisputed home

to musicals in Milan. The most highly-esteemed cabarets are the Teatro Ciakandat theArea Zelig Cabaret, a historical venue

which also has a successful television show,filmed at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi.

SportsAll types of sports are played in the city,and many significant internationalmatches take place here. Milan is the only

city in Europe whose two football teams(Internazionale and A.C. Milan) have wonthe Champions League. Football finds its

home at the Stadio San Siro GiuseppeMeazzawhich can be visited with a tourof its adjoining museum [> p. 28].Since 1920 the equine world has had aprestigious home: the Ippodromi di SanSiro, which has witnessed innumerabletriumphs by famous thoroughbreds.

Basketball and volleyball will soon returnto the Palalido which is undergoing anextensive facelift. The Lido di Milanois a

large, fully equipped outdoor pool thatopens from June to September. TheIdroscaloartificial lake hosts many different

water sports. Large athletic events areheld at the Arena civica Gianni Brera

which dates back to the Napoleonic era.Here many great sporting achievementshave been witnessed as well as the firstGiro dItalia (1909). Cycling was also heldat theVelodromo Vigorelliin the past

and many records were set here by Coppi,Anquetil and Moser (it now hosts othersporting events).

San Siro was the swellest

course Id ever seen.

Ernest HemingwaySports and Leisure


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A trip outside town will lead you todiscover the Bassa Milanese area

with its medieval abbeys, the city of

Monza, and the citys complex water

system: in Milan you can!

Abbazia di Chiaravalle

Via SantArialdo 102, Chiaravalle

Milanese.In the green of the ParcoAgricolo Sud di Milano and easily

reachable by public transportation(bus 77 from Piazza Medaglie dOro)one can visit the abbey which wasthe cornerstone of the agriculturaldevelopment of the southern hinterlandof Milan. Founded in 1135, it is marked

by a conspicuous steeple, a brick andmarble tower, called ciribiciaccola in anursery rhyme in Milanese dialect. Thechurch (1172-1221) is a must-see, along

with the remains of the Gothic cloister(13th century) and the chapter house

with graffiti by Bramante and frescoes.

Abbazia di ViboldoneVia dellAbbazia 7, San Giuliano

Milanese. It is located 12 km fromMilan, following the highway towardsLodi. Only the church remains of theabbey founded on 5 February 1176

by the Umiliati order, and it is oneof the most important Lombard Gothicconstructions. It contains beautiful 14thcentury frescoes by Giottos pupils.

Abbazia di MirasoleStrada Consortile del Mirasole,

Opera. Ten kilometres from the city,this architectural complex - foundedin the first half of the 13th century bythe Umiliati order - includes church

buildings alongside working areas(stables, farmyard, weaving mills).

Not surprisingly, the modern structureof the Lombard farmhouse takes

inspiration from this type of building.Mirasole has preserved the originalstructure of the 14th century Santa

ABBAZIA

DI CHIARAVALLE

ABBAZIA

DI VIBOLDONE

ABBAZIA

DI MIRASOLE

ABBAZIADI MORIMONDO

CRUISING DOWN

THE NAVIGLI

MONZA

AND ITS VILLA

Outside Milan

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The Giardini dellaVilla Reale di Monzatook shape between1778 and 1783.Piermarini integratedthe typical Italiangarden with elementsof British origin,dividing the gardensinto English gardens,

orchards andbotanical gardens -complete with wildanimals.

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Le

milano guida to the city

Documents