mike's backpack (new) - wordpress.com !3 of !21 mike’s backpack february 15, 2016 mike’s...

Page ! of !1 21 Mike’s Backpack February 15, 2016

Mike’s Backpack

Dimensions - Total Volume - 5300 cu in - 86 liters

Pack: 30” H x 14” W x 7-1/2” D 76 cm H x 35.5 cm W x 19 cm D 3150 cu in / 51.3 liters

Front Pouch: 25” H x 14” W x 4” D 76 cm H x 35.5 cm W x 10 cm D 1400 cu in / 23 liters

Side Pouch (each): 25” H x 7-1/5” W x 2” D 76 cm H x 19 cm W x 5 cm D 375 cu in / 6 liters

Weight: Pack: 14.5 oz / 420 g Belt: 7 oz / 200g (with foam padding) 2 oz / 50 g (without padding)


MIKE’S BACKPACK OVERVIEW 3 TERMINOLOGY 5

BARTACK 5

BOX OR X STITCH 5

DOUBLE STITCH 5

FOLD-FINISHES 5

TAPING 5

BILL OF MATERIALS 6 FABRIC 6

HARDWARE 6

NON-FABRIC MATERIAL 6

SOURCES 7

CUTTING PLANS 8 FABRIC DIAGRAMS 8

WEBBING 10

GROSGRAIN 10

ELASTIC BANDS 10

FOAM PADDING 10

SHOCK CORD 10

HOOK-AND-LOOP (VELCRO) 10

SUB-ASSEMBLIES 11 UPPER SHOULDER STRAPS 11

LOWER SHOULDER STRAPS 13

HIP BELT (OPTIONAL) 13

BACK PANEL 14

BACK CLOSURE VELCRO 15

UPPER HAUL LOOP 15

TOP CLOSURE STRAPS 15

SHOULDER STRAPS 16

SHOULDER STRAP COVER 16

HIP BELT SLEEVE AND PAD HOLDER 17

LOWER SHOULDER STRAPS 18

FRONT PANEL 19

FRONT CLOSURE VELCRO 19

FRONT MESH POCKET 19

SIDE MESH POCKET 20

CINCH POINTS 20

PACK ASSEMBLY 21 BACK AND FRONT 21

SIDE PANELS 21


MIKE’S BACKPACK OVERVIEW

Last year I made a G4 Backpack for my hike into the Grand Canyon. It was a fantastic pack, and worked like a charm. I liked it so much that I left it with my son (he lives in Arizona) with the intentions of making a new G4 for myself when I got back. The more I thought about that pack during the flight home and the weeks after, the more changes I wanted to make. Since I was going to make it all over again, why not incorporate things that work the way I want?

I grew up in the external frame period, so I like having things on the outside of the pack, and being able to change the pack to suit each hike (weekend trips, multi-day trips, winter, summer, etc.). I ruined my son (in some people's opinion) by raising him up the same way. So, when it came time for him to leave the nest I let him pick one of my packs for his own...why was I surprised that he chose my nameless external over my Gregory inter-nal? Anyway, that was the impetus for some of my modifications (lack of sewing ability counted for some of the others). Now that I am hiking in two different environments (dry, barren Arizona, and wet, woodsy Pennsylvania) I wanted a pack that would easily handle both needs as well as the differing seasons (larger, heavier winter gear; smaller, lighter summer gear). I'm also cheap, which accounted for some of the materials I used to keep costs low. While I don't expect everyone to come in as I did, this cost me less than $25 to make (FreeCycle is a great place).

I also made changes in the construct of the pack from the G4. My sewing skills are very amateurish, so I simpli-fied the pack by making as many seams as possible straight (eliminating the bulge at the bottom for the sleeping bag/tent) which also happened to cut down on the number of pieces involved.

So, here are the features of the pack:Straight, clean lines, making the pack easy to make and resize. It’s just a large rectangle, 30” x 14” x 7.5” (76 x 35.5 x 19cm) for a volume of 3150 cu in (51.3 Liters). To get a smaller or larger pack simple change the dimensions. The only requirement is the spacing between the upper and lower straps (21” - 53cm), and that can be fudged a little by moving the lower strap up, just not too much or it will be too tight in the underarm area.Like the G4 this uses a sleeping pad for rigidity. Here, however, I went with a full sleeve instead of an upper and lower mesh. When taking the pack off for a break the pad had a tendency to pop out of one of the mesh pockets, thus the reason for the full sleeve. In my use I have seen no loss in rigidity of the pack with this design.I opted for permanent foam cushioning in the shoulder straps. I was never able to get enough socks into the straps to make much of a difference either in the cushioning or as a storage aid. Additionally, not having to account for the velcro this allows for a full 3” wide strap.

Each strap also has three elastic straps for attaching things to (like I said, external frame lover) such as a compass or GPS, light, whistle, etc. The elastic also makes it easier to get the hydration tube through, The tube on my winter hydration pack is a permanent part of the bladder, so I need to remove it for a refill.


I don’t always need a belt, and with my style of hiking I sometimes prefer a WWII Pistol Belt that I can attach things to instead of a padded belt, so I created a removable belt system. This consists of a sleeve sewn into the back of the pack, and a separately made belt that can slide into the sleeve when needed. With a full belt, and the velcro closure of he G4, there is now a large storage area - 131 cu in - 2 L (1.25”D 3.5”H x 30”W - 3 x 9 x 76cm).The top closes with mating flaps on the front and back that connect with velcro, fully closing the top of the pack. I also included two top-to-bottom straps to cinch the pack down, making it more stable.The front and side storage pouches are squared off on the bottom to increase the storage capability, and it goes from the bottom of the pack nearly to the top. In this way I can store my full hammock, fly, and bug net in the front pouch instead of the main compartment. I can even store my 3-season tent in the pouch to let it dry from rain or dew during the day.One mistake with the side pouches, I made them too large, so for this design I reduced the depth from 4” to 2”.I added cinch straps to the front and side pouches to snug down the contents.

That is the design of the pack. If you have any questions drop a message in the MYOG area of Backpacking.net.


TERMINOLOGY

So, some of the terms used here, especially the sewing terms, might be as confusing to you as they were to me. Here are those terms defined with examples.

Bartack A bartack stitch is used to add strength to the connection between two pieces, to resist tears in the fabric, or to reinforce a seam. Basically it is a tight zig-zag stitch, set your machine to its tightest zigzag pattern, sew the stitch about 1” (2.5cm), or whatever the instructions call for, then use the re-verse setting and go back over the stitch a second time.

Box or X Stitch The box, or X, stitch is commonly used to attach web-bing to another material or to itself. While it looks sim-ple, figuring out how to make this stitch can keep you up nights. There are several places on the backpack where the X stitch is needed.

Double Stitch A double stitch is just two stitches parallel to each other. The first stitch is al-ways at the indicated distance from the edge (ex: 1/2”) the next stitch is about 1/4” closer to the edge. They make a needle specially for this, if you can mount two spools on the top of your machine.

Fold-Finishes This is a common way of finishing the end of a piece of webbing. It does several things: reduces fraying; prevents a part, like a buckle, from sliding off the end; and provides something to hold onto when cinching, like for tightening a belt. Depending on the need this will either be a full fold or a half fold, and is usually finished off with either a X stitch or a bartack.

Taping Prior to sewing the pieces together I joined them with double-sided tape. I prefer this method to pinning because the tape holds the two pieces together the entire length of the seam and you do not have to stop sewing to remove the pins as you go along. I used a tape less than 1/2" wide so that the tape is fully concealed by the seams. Don’t use standard double-sided tape, it has many problems when it comes to sewing, use double-sided fabric tape.


BILL OF MATERIALS

The main panels are made of two different fabrics, a heavier one for the parts that will receive a lot of wear, and a lighter fabric for the other parts. Honestly, the number of panels made of the lighter fabric aren’t that many, so making the entire pack out of the same fabric isn’t going to affect the total weight of the pack all that much. I can understand the ultra lightweight fans wanting to cut down on the weight, so I do highlight those areas in the fab-ric list.

As to actual fabrics, the G4 calls for Codura (heavyweight) and ripstop, but you can make it with just about any outdoor fabric. While in the Grand Canyon one hiker suggested Silnylon as being both waterproof and light-weight. Personally, being cheap and hating to throw anything away I used the fabric from my old Eureka! Back-country tent, waterproof and semi-lightweight - the floor for the heavyweight areas, the body for the lightweight areas, and the doors for the mesh. A quick posting on Freecycle,org will get you someone’s used tent for free!

Fabric • Heavyweight panel fabric. This is shown in blue in the diagrams and is used where the pack is subject to

heavy wear.• Lightweight panel fabric. This is shown in green in the diagrams and is used in areas not subject to wear or

stress.• Heavyweight mesh. This is shown in yellow, and is used on the back to hold the pad in place.• Lightweight mesh. This is shown as tan, and is used for the front and side storage pockets.

Hardware • Cord locks for securing the shock cord. The type is not important, so long as it can fit

both ends of the shock cord.• 3/4" Single-side buckle release, this is for the sternum strap.• 1" Dual side buckle release for the belt.• 1" Ladderlock buckles (4), these are used for the shoulder straps and pack compres-

sion straps. A simple tug on them is enough to cinch the strap.

Non-Fabric Material • 1" Nylon webbing. Nylon is a good choice for rot and UV resistance.• 3/4" Polyester ribbon for the sternum strap.• 3/4” or 7/8” Grosgrain. This is used on various parts to prevent fraying.• 1/8” Shock cord for cinching the mesh pouches.• Polyester thread for sewing everything up. Poly is a good strength outdoor thread.• 3/8” cm Velcro, equal amounts of hook and loop. There is a style called soft & flexible that is

lightweight and not stiff.• 3/4" Non-roll Elastic Band for the "drink tube" one the shoulder straps.• 1/2“ High density foam, like what is used for chairs.

Single side buckle

Dual side buckle

Ladderlock

Cord lock


• 1-1/4” High density foam for the belt, as an alternative to stuffing it with clothes.• Double-sided tape. This is for pre-assembly of pieces prior to sewing. Be careful not to buy quilting tape or

fusible tape, the former isn't double sided and the latter doesn’t adhere well to nylon.

Sources While not the only sources for the different materials, I offer these to get you started.• JoAnn Fabrics. Depending on your choice of fabrics you may find them here, the elastic bands,

thread, and the foam (use seat or chair foam). Combined with the many sales they have going you can save some money. It’s also a good source for the foam, use chair or seating foam. http://www.joann.com/

• Another good source for the foam are Army/Navy stores.• Quest Outfitters. They have a lot of hard to find outdoor fabrics in a variety of colors. http://

questoutfitters.com/• Strapworks. Good variety of straps and hardware at decent prices, along with cordlocks. Very fast in

delivery. http://www.strapworks.com/default.asp• Office Depot/Max carries a double-sided tape by Scotch, the dispenser makes applying it easy, and

this tape does not have a “body” to it, it is adhesive only. Scotch® Double-Sided Adhesive Roller

http://www.joann.com/

http://questoutfitters.com/

http://www.strapworks.com/default.asp


CUTTING PLANS

Fabric diagrams There are no full-size patterns that I have to offer, but the diagrams below should provide you with all the infor-mation you need to cut the material. I've kept everything simple, and down to as few panels as I could. The only difficult panel is the shoulder straps, with their curved ends, but exactness isn't required, and I have included as much detail on them as possible. Again, if you have any questions feel free to drop me an email.In the diagrams the blue panels are the heavyweight fabrics, and the green is the lightweight. The ivory mesh is for the front and side pockets, while the yellow mesh is for the back sleeve. The numbers in parenthesis repre-sent the quantity of the piece that is required.


Webbing Cut out webbing pieces as follows and sear all ends with a flame (candle works nicely):

• (1) 10” piece of 1" (haul loop)• (2) 6” pieces of 1" (top shoulder strap)• (2) 18” pieces 1" (bottom shoulder strap)• (2) 17” pieces 1" (hip belt)• (2) 14” pieces 1" (top closure - upper strap)• (2) 30” pieces 1" (top closure - bottom strap)• (1) 3” piece 3/4" (left sternum strap) • (1) 11” piece 3/4" (right sternum strap)

Grosgrain • (20) 3.5” pieces (side lashing loops)• (1) 18” piece for mesh pad holder (top)• (2) 8.25” pieces for mesh pad holder (angled edges)• (1) 22” piece (front mesh pocket)• (2) 12” piece (side mesh pocket)

Elastic Bands • (6) 4.5” pieces (drinking tube holders)

Foam Padding • (2) 1/2" x 3" x 14" for shoulder straps• (2) 1/2" x 4" x ??" for hip belt

Shock Cord Cut the cord as follows and sear all ends with a flame:

• (2) 66’ pieces for side cinching• (1) 140” piece for front cinching

Hook-and-Loop (Velcro) Velcro makes what it calls "Soft and Flexible" and it is also lightweight. This is what I suggest both for its flexibili-ty and its weight, though you can use regular sew-on as well. The only problem is that it only comes in 5/8” width, so if you choose to use a different product or size you will need to make allowances in the design.

• (1) Width of hip belt less 3.5” for hip belt closure• (1) 14” piece for top closure


SUB-ASSEMBLIES

Upper Shoulder Straps What you will need for each strap:• (1) Shoulder strap front panel• (1) Shoulder strap rear panel• (1) One of the pieces of sternum strap webbing• (3) 6" Elastic strap for the hydration tube• (1) 6" length of 1" Nylon webbing• (1) 3/4" Ladderlock• (1) 1/2" Foam for shoulder strap

1. Some material has an inside and an outside, if yours does then lay the strap panels down so that the out-sides are facing up.

2. Take the three elastic strips and lay them on top of the front piece as shown on the diagram. Tape the edges in place (not the entire strap).

3. Take the shorter sternum strap, fold in half, and thread through the edge of a ladderlock. Tape in place as shown - for either right- or left-handed it should be on the outside curve edge.

4. Tape the back piece to the front piece so the outside faces touch, tape only along the edges shown with dotted lines (It needs to be open on the left to insert the padding). Now, sew 3/8" in from the edge where the dotted lines are. Double stitch.

5. Turn the shoulder strap inside out.6. Run a bartack across the right edge, 1-1/2

in from the right edge.7. Lay the strap down so that the front side is

face-up.


8. Take one of the 5" webbings and a ladderlock, using a full-fold sew the ladderlock to the right edge of the shoulder strap with an X stitch (the webbing is attached behind the bartack on the shoulder strap).

9. Measure the strap from the left edge down to the back side of the web-bing you just attached. Cut the foam 3" wide, and 3" shorter than your measurement. Slide the foam into the strap, trimming the width as necessary, and the length so that you have 3" on the left without foam.

10. Repeat with the other shoulder strap. When you are done place the straps so that the outside faces are up. Now, connect the sternum straps. If everything is done right the curves at the bottom of the straps should curve away from each other.


Lower Shoulder Straps What you will need for this step:• (2) 4-1/2" square Shoulder Brace panels• (2) 18" lengths of 1" Nylon webbing

1. Fold the shoulder brace in half diagonally, then do it again. The final piece should look like the diagram.

2. Tape the shoulder brace to the nylon webbing so that the bottom tip of the brace is 2" above the end of the strap, and the shoulder brace is on both sides of the webbing.

3. Run a stitch around the brace as shown by the dotted lines, 1/4" in from the edges.4. Sew two bartacks across the brace at the locations shown by the solid lines5. Repeat this with the other brace and strap.

Hip belt (Optional) What you will need for this step:• (1) Front hip belt panel• (1) Rear hip belt panel• (1) Velcro strip (sized to you)• (2) 17" pieces of 1" webbing• (2) Pieces of 1/2" foam (sized to you)

1. To cut the material to size first measure your hip circumference, then subtract 6", this will be the width of the belt. Cut a piece that wide and 5" high.

2. Next, trim both ends as show above (cutting out 1-3/4" triangles should leave a 1-1/2" tab in the middle).3. For the Velcro, cut a piece (hook and loop) to 4" shorter than the width of the belt.4. Center the Velcro to the top, inside, of the belt and tape in place (gray bar above), then sew it to the fabric.5. Now, place the fabric so the outside faces are together (Velcro should be on the outside).6. Stitch around the edges as shown by the dotted line (edge with the Velcro should not be stitched).7. Turn the belt inside out and run a bartack where the solid gold lines are shown in the diagram.8. Now, take one of the 17" webbing pieces, do a 1" fold and sew it onto the the belt using

a Box stitch. Repeat this on the other end.9. Finally, thread each end through one of the belt buckle pieces, and finish the end off with

a 1/2" half-fold, this keeps the strap from pulling out of the buckle.10. If you are using the foam padding, cut two pieces of 1/2" foam 4" high, and as wide as

the Velcro you cut, them into the belt and used the Velcro to close it.


Back Panel The following sections deal with the various pieces to be added to the back panel. If you have a china marker, or don't mind the lines on the pack (most won't show) drawing the following lines will make adding the various pieces a lot easier.

• The first line will be on the inside face of the material.• Draw a line 1-1/2" down from the top of the pack. This will mark the fold-down and the bottom edge of

the Velcro. This is the only line needed on the inside.• These lines will be on the outside face, all pieces except the Velcro will be sewn onto the outside.

• 8" from the bottom. This delineates the bottom of the pack from the back, all other lines will be from this line.

• 1/2" down from the line, this is the bottom of the pad mesh and the belt sleeve.• The bottom of the lower shoulder strap will attach 4" up, mark a line on both edges at this point.• 4-1/2" up draw a line across the pack, this is the upper edge of the belt sleeve. Even if you don't want a

belt now, I suggest adding the sleeve. The weight is not that great, and should you desire a belt in the future the sleeve is there, you can't add it later.

• Draw a line 22" up, this will be the bottom of the shoulder strap cover.• On the 22" line draw a vertical line 3-3/8" on either side of the center line, this is for the shoulder straps.• 23" up draw a line 3-1/2" on either side of the center. This will identify where the haul loop and the top

closure straps will be attached.• On the 23" line draw a short vertical line on both ends of the line, this will mark where the outside edges

of the closure straps.• Also on the 23" line draw a vertical line 1-3/8" away from each closure strap line (towards the center), this

marks the outside edges of the haul loop.• Draw a line at 25", 5" on either side of the center line. This is the upper line for the shoulder straps.


Back Closure Velcro What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• 14" piece of loop velcro

1. Place the back panel on your work surface so that the inside face of the fabric is face up..

2. Fold down to the line and tape in place.3. Tape the Velcro to the fabric, centered on the back,

with the bottom edge is also on the line..4. Stitch the velcro to the fabric all around, 1/8" from

the edges.

Upper Haul Loop What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (1) 10” Piece of 1” webbing

1. From this point on we will be working on the out-side of the back, so flip the panel around so that the velcro is face down.

2. Make a loop out of the 10” webbing and place it on the back so that the bottom of the loop is on the 23" horizontal line, and the outside edges of the straps are on the two inner vertical lines. Tape in place

Top Closure Straps What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (2) 16” pieces of 1” webbing

1. Place the two pieces of webbing so their bottoms are on the horizontal line, and their outside edges are on the two outer vertical lines. Tape in place.

2. Now, sew all 4 edges using a box stitch, then finish with a bartack on the top and bottom of the box.


Shoulder Straps What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (2) Shoulder Straps

1. Lay the straps on the back panel so that the lad-derlocks are face down and the straps curve away from each other.

2. Position the bottom outside corner of the strap on the 3-3/8" vertical line on the 22" line. Tilt it until the other side of the strap intersects the 25" line and the inside of the haul loop. Tape in place.

3. Sew on the yellow dotted lines 1/8” from the edges.

4. Run bartacks where the solid yellow bars are shown.

Shoulder Strap Cover What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (1) Shoulder Strap Cover

1. Lay the shoulder strap cover so the bottom is on the 22" line.

2. Stitch 1/8” from the edge of the cover (the red lines).

3. Run three bartack stitches across the back as shown (yellow lines).


Hip Belt Sleeve and Pad Holder What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (1) Hip belt sleeve• (1) Mesh pad holder• (1) Grossgrain cut to fit the top of the pad holder.• (2) Grossgrain cut to fit the pad holder diagonal sides.• (1) Grossgrain cut to tit the bottom edge of the pad holder.

1. Fold the top grossgrain in half, lengthwise, and tape to the top edge of the pad holder, single stitch it.2. Fold the diagonal grossgrain in half, lengthwise, and tape to the diagonal edge, trim to fit.3. Repeat for other diagonal.4. Fold the bottom grossgrain in half, lengthwise, and tape to the bottom of the pad holder.5. Stitch the grossgrain to the pad holder with a single stitch.6. Tape the bottom edge. inside face, of the belt sleeve onto the

1/2" line, centered (green lines).7. Next, tape the tapered end of the pad holder on top of the

belt sleeve, also at the 1/2" line, centered.8. Stitch the belt/pad holder to the back using a double stitch,

along the bottom edge only, do not go up the sides of the pad holder or belt sleeve (red dotted lines) but sew to the both ends of the back panel. The upper stitch should be on the bottom line, the other stitch as close to the 1/2" line as possible.

9. Flip the pad holder down so that it is out of the way for the next step.10. Tape the upper edge of the belt holder on the 4-1/2“ line,

double stitch it to the back. This forms a pocket that the belt can slide into.

11. Flip the pad holder back up, align the sides of the pad holder with the sides of the back. Align the diagonal corner of the pad holder with the lower stitch line on the belt holder. See the lower right diagram, the red lines are the belt stitching, they are shown only for illustration, when the holder is folded up they are not visible.

12. Tape the edge of the pad holder to the edge of the back. all the way to the top of the pad holder13. Sew the pad holder to the back 3/8" in from the edge, single stitch (orange lines).14. Repeat this for the other side of the pad holder.


Lower Shoulder Straps What you will need for this step:• (1) Back panel• (2) Lower shoulder strap assemblies.1. Place the lower shoulder strap pieces to the back

as show. The bottom of the triangle should be 4” up from the bottom line.

2. Now, without moving the bottom, tilt the strap until the right point of the triangle is 2” in from the left edge of the back, tape in place.

3. Sew the lower shoulder strap 3/8” in from the left edge of the back, see dotted lines. This is the only place where the strap will be attached.

4. Now, cut off any shoulder brace extending past the edge of the back, but do not cut the strap.

5. Repeat for the other side.

This completes the back panel. You can set it aside for now.


Front Panel The following sections deal with the various pieces to be added to the front panel.

Front Closure Velcro What you will need for this step:• (1) Front panel• 14" piece of hook velcro

1. Place the front panel on your work surface so that the outside face of the fabric is face up..

2. Fold 3/4” down and tape in place.3. Tape the Velcro to the fabric, centered on the front,

with the bottom edge along the edge of the folded fabric.

4. Stitch the velcro to the fabric all around, 1/8" from the edges.

Front Mesh Pocket What you will need for this step:• (1) Front panel• (1) Front mesh pocket• (1) 22” Piece of grosgrain1. Take the 21" pocket edge grosgrain, fold it in half

lengthwise and tape it to the top of the front mesh pocket on both the front and back sides. Sew with a single stitch.

2. On the bottom corner cutouts, stitch the two edges of the cutout together to within 1/2" of the edge, do a double stitch to provide extra strength.

3. Repeat on the other corner as well. The stitches are on what will now be considered the inside of the pocket.

4. Tape the bottom inside of the pocket to the bottom outside of the front panel.

5. Tape the sides of the pocket to the sides of the front panel.

6. Sew a double stitch down one side, across the bottom, then up the other side.


Side Mesh Pocket What you will need for this step:• (2) Side panels• (2) Side mesh pockets• (2) 12” Pieces of grosgrain• (20) 3.5” pieces for lashing loops

1. Take the 12" piece of grosgrain, fold it in half lengthwise and tape it to the top of the side mesh pocket on both the front and back sides. Sew with a single stitch.

2. On the bottom corner cutouts, stitch the two edges of the cutout together to within 1/2" of the edge, do a double stitch to provide extra strength.

3. Repeat on the other corner as well. The stitches are on what will now be con-sidered the inside of the pocket.

4. Tape the bottom inside of the pocket to the bottom outside of the side panel.5. Tape the sides of the pocket to the sides of the side panel.

Cinch Points What you will need for this step:• (2) Side panels• (20) 3-1/2" Pieces of grosgrain

1. There are 20 cinch points to be attached, 10 on each side panel, 5 on each side of the panels. Each cinch point is done in the same manner.

2. Lay the side panel down so that the outside is facing up.3. Create a cinch point by folding it into an arrowhead as seen in the diagram.4. Tape the first cinch point on the lefthand side of the side panel just below the

grosgrain.5. Make 4 more cinch points and place tape them down the side, spacing them

evenly apart (about 5”).6. Repeat this on the other side of the side panel, again with the tip of the arrow-

head point inward.7. Stitch each cinch point 3/8" in from the edge.8. Repeat this for the other side panel.


PACK ASSEMBLY

Back and Front What you will need for this step:• Back Panel Assembly• Front Panel Assembly• (2) 30” closure straps

1. Lay the back panel outside face up.2. Working with the bottom edge measure 3-1/2” out from the center of the panel, tape the outside edge of a

closure strap at this spot. Repeat for the other strap.3. Lay the front panel on top of the back panel with the outside face down and the bottom edges mating.4. Tape the bottom edges of the front and back panels together.5. Sew the bottom edges together, 1/2” in from the edge. Triple stitch for extra strength.

Side Panels What you will need for this step:• Front / Back Panel Assemblies• (2) Side Panel Assemblies

1. Open up the Front / Back panel assembly so that the outside faces are up.2. Take one of the side panel assemblies, lay it down on top of the F/B assembly so that the grosgrains for the

front and side are touching and the mesh panels are facing each other.3. This is where tape comes in handier than pins. Tape the edges of the side panel to the front panel, then con-

tinue on around the bottom of the side panel and up the other side, mating with the back panel.4. If all looks good then stitch the panels together 1/2” in from the edges. Triple stitch.5. Repeat this with the other side.6. Turn the pack right-side out.

FINISHED! CONGRATS!

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