midwest ice climbing history 15-2011
TRANSCRIPT
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An incomplete History ofMidwest Ice Climbing
Eric Landmann – Granite Publishing
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1932 --Laurent Grivel added front points to crampons.
1958--Chouinard Equipment is formed in Ventura, CA by Yvon Chouinard.
1962--First lightweight, completely adjustable crampons invented by Salewa (Salewa “Classic”).
1964--Salewa ice screw invented.
1969--Chouinard began making ice axes with curved picks, a popular innovation which increased their utility on different surfaces.
1973--Great Pacific Iron Works Inc. was created by Chouinard in 1973. Chrome-moly pitons are Yvon’s new invention.
1974--Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss climb Bridalveil Falls, Colorado.
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1978
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1979
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1980--Shaun Parent, Joanne Murphy and Paul Dedi climb Kakabeka Falls, probably the first time ice was climbed in the region.--At Munising, Dairyland (WI5, 50m) by Paul Kuenn. Ahead of his time!
1981--First climb done in Orient Bay (Tempest) led by Paul Dedi. Equipment included one 11-meter rope, four ice screws, a 75cm ice axe and a short rock hammer.
1982--Paul Landry and Guy Lacelle climb Glace Eclatante (WI3+, 55m).
1983--Alpine Outing FA by Shaun Parent and Ed Iwasa.
1984--Second edition of Climber's Guide to Thunder Bay by Shaun Parent is published listing 22 ice climbs.
1985--Ice Stud (WI2, 55m) FA by Shaun Parent and Dave Pugliese.--Curtain Call and White Lightning were FA'd by Shaun and partners.
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1985
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1986
Climber's Guide to the Ice of Orient Bayby Shaun Parent is released.
Includes 78 routes, a few maps, no photos.
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Mellow YellowGoMar FallsGlace EclatanteRemember the DayRanxerox TangentThe Adrenaline SolutionEveil des SensHigh Fidelity
Reflection WallCascade FallsObesessionTempestTears of JoySycho IcychoAndromeda WeepsStarquake
Routes done by 1986
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1986
Governor Dodge
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1986
Governor Dodge
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1986
Lone Rock
Downriver
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1986
Lone Rock
Upriver
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1987
Governor Dodge
Stephen’s Falls
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1989
Gibraltar Rock
1999
The Ice Pit
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1987–Ice Fest I happened almost by accident when Shaun and climbers from Toronto met up with a handful of local Thunder Bay and Minnesota climbers.
–Article in Climbing mag by Laurence Saroka about Orient Bay.
–Orient Bay guide supplement lists 16 new routes, including Parallax (Rone and B Lindquist), and 10% Real (Mike Dahlberg, Laurence Saroka, Melissa Quigley, and Steve Arneson).
On the FA of Parallax – “I did the first ascent of this route with Burt Lindquist in March of 1987. Tools were a Lowe Big Bird axe and a Hummingbird Hammer. Crampons were Footfangs on double-leather boots. Screws were Chouinards and an occasional pound-in Snarg. Gloves were Dachstein boiled wool. I remember being so pumped as I finished the lead I couldn't hang on to the tools anymore, my fingers were just opening up! Sheer terror and the fear of a hell of a fall got me to the top.” – Dave Rone
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1989
Orient Bay – Tempest
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1989
Orient Bay – McCollum’s Cabins
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1988--In Agawa, Bridalveil Falls (WI3, 80m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Lloyd and Flying Circus (WI4+, 95m) by Shaun Parent and A. McColm.
1989--Black Diamond is formed.
--In Montreal River South Bay, first ascents of Steps to Rama (WI4, 140m) by Shaun Parent and Chris Loyd, and Solo Menagerie (WI5, 100m), and Comfortably Numb (WI4, 130m)
1990--Climbing mag #117 has a special Canadian issue, and mentions Orient Bay. This drives more visitors to Ice Fest IV.
1991--Getting Oriented (WI4, 55m) at Kama Bay is first climbed.
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1991
Starved Rock
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1991
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1992
Orient Bay
CheeseheadAttack!
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1992
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1992Beardmore
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1992
IceStationSuperior
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1992
IceStationSuperior
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1992 Hotel Normandie Nipigon
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1993
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1993
North of SuperiorOrient BayIce Climber’s Guideby Shaun Parent
Granite Publishing
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1994 Starved Rock
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1994
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1995
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1996
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1996
Paradice
Xanadu
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1996
Paradice
Unclimbed
(Purgatory)
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1997
Agawa Canyon
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Trestle
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1997
Orient Bay
GlaceEclatante
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1998
BlackDiamondCobra
BlackDiamondSabretooth
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1998
Da Yoo Pee
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A “waterfall” in the U.P.
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1998
Redridge
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1998
Ice Stud
Thunder Bay
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1998
CrystalChandelier
Black River
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1999
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1999
Ice Fest XIII
China Gardens
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1999
Ice Fest XIII
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1999
Ice Fest XIII
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1999
Powerline Falls
Kama Bay
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1999
Agawa Canyon Map(1st Ed.)
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1999
The Ice Pit
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1999
Quarry Monster FA
Wyalusing
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1999
Wyalusing
Tip onewith Denny
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1999
Black River
Paradise
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1999
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2000
Dairyland
Munising
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2000
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2000
Dairyland
Munising
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2000
Dairyland
Munising
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2000
Dairyland
Munising
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2000
Dairyland
Munising
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2000
Eagle Canyon
Ontario
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2000
Superior Ice
Granite Publishing
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2000
Superior Icework session
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2000
Michigan Ice Fest
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MunisingCarnage
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2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
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2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
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2000
Getting Oriented
Kama Bay
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2001
Starved Rock
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2001
Tonti
Starved Rock
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2001
Dryer Hose
Munising
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2001
SweetMotherMoses
Munising
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2001
Mad Moose Lodge
Batchawana
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2001
Mad Moose Lodge
Batchawana
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2002
BlackDiamondViper
BlackDiamondFusion
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2002
Domino Theory
Mt. McRae
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2002
House of Cards
Mt. McRae
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2002
Java
Kama Bay
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2002
MichiganIceFest
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2003
AsymmetricWarfare
Kama Bay
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2003
NC-17
Kama Bay
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2003
Uthitta
Kama Bay
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2003
StoneColdCowboys
Kama Bay
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2003
Stratosfear
Montreal River
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2003
TorquoiseCoyote
Montreal River
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2004
NipigonIceFest
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2004 Wall of Doom Orient Bay
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2004
Mythophobia
Orient Bay
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2004
Trickle Trunk
Orient Bay
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2004
Tryptophan
The Fishery
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2004
Sport Fishing
The Fishery
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2004
Stick Bait
The Fishery
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2005
Petzl Nomic
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2004
HandsandKnees
Kama Bay
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2004
Shelob’s Lair
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2004
Shelob’s Lair
Kama Bay
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2004
Shelob’s Lair
Kama Bay
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2005
Kama BayCakewalk
Kama Bay
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2005
Kama Sutra
Kama Bay
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2005
Kama Sutra
Kama Bay
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2005
Parsec
Orient Bay
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2005
Parsec
Orient Bay
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2005
ProfessionalBusinessmen
Orient Bay
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2005
PsychoticEpisode
Orient Bay
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2005
Time Well Wasted
Orient Bay
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2005
AuroraBorealis
Montreal River
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2005
AgawaCanyonMap(2nd Ed.)
by Shaun Parent
Granite Publishing
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2005
Agawa Canyon
SweatingWhiskey
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2006 Wailing Wall South Gillies
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2006
Dirty Laundry
Wailing Wall
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2006
Just StepAround
Wailing Wall
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2006
Ed’s Cafe
Paradice
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2006
Arjumand’sShroud
Orient Bay
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2006
EarlyRetirement
Orient Bay
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2006
Mishepeshu
Orient Bay
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2006
Relativity
Orient Bay
Wailing Wall
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2006
Shaker's Dozen
Kama Bay
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2006
Fumbledusk
Kama Bay
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2006
Evanesce
Orient Bay
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2006
Galadriel’sPhial
Kama Bay
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2006
ReflectionWall
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2006
Resolution
ReflectionWall
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2007
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2007
An Ice Climbers Guide to Munising, Michigan
1st Edition
By Jon Jugenheimer
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2008
Black Gold
Paradice
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2008
The Shining Path
Paradice
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2008
The Shining Path
Kama Bay
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2008
Purgatory
Kama Bay
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2008
Purgatory
Kama Bay
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2008
Obfuscation Overhang
Orient Bay
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2008
Infidelity
Orient Bay
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2010
B**** Road
?
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2008
Eagle Eyes
Wyalusing
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2010
Tatooine
Orient Bay
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