micro fibre dyeing by roy gordon. dyeing 1 key issues the 2 most important factors in dyeing...
TRANSCRIPT
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
Micro Fibre Dyeing
By Roy Gordon
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 1Key Issues
The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.• Build-up properties.• Washfastness.
BUILD-UP
WASHFASTNESS
1 Depth of shade 1/ fibre dpf.Finer fibres need more dye.
2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres.
DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION
1 High dye applications needed.2 Washfastness relates to surface
dye. Microfibres have very high surface area.
DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION
Problems Causes Remedies
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingVarious factors
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS
CAUSES REMEDIES
Dye uptake at lower temperatures. Commence dyeing at lower start temperatures.
LEVEL DYEING Faster dye uptake rate. Use slower rate of temperature rise up to top temperature.
Residues from preparation steps. Use of auxiliaries to level and protect from residues.
Poor penetration of high twist yarns on high density fabric.
Compatible dye combinations.
CREASING & Poor relaxed shrinkage in preparation. Control over the preparation process.CROWS FEET Rapid temperature rise at critical heating
and cooling phases. Use slower rate of temperature rise up to
top temperature. Use of anticrease auxiliaries.
LIGHTFASTNESS High surface area exposed to light. Careful selection of Dyes. Use of UV absorbers to reduce fading.
Microfibre mixed with conventional fibres.
Dye selection
DYE COVERAGE Flat and textured yarns combined. Dyeing process to improve leveling.Filaments of varying cross section. Use of auxiliaries to improve dyeing.
ABRASIONInadequate preparation leaving spin finish, oils, oligomer and WR residues.
Good quality preparation.
MARKS Incorrect machine type. Correct machine type usage. Dyeing lubricant to reduce abrasion.
Dyeing 2
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingMicrofibre Dyeing Process: Takes account of…
Rapid strike and exhaustion on Microfibres.Greater rate and extent of shrinkage.Lower temperature exhaustion and shrinkage,
relative to conventional fibres.
Dyeing 3.Process
Fill @ 50 oCLoad Auxiliaries and pump.Load buffer and dyes.Raise temperature - Rate 1.Raise temperature - Rate 2.Hold at Top Temperature.Cool at Rate 1.Hot rinse @ 90oC Use Rate’s 1 & 2.RC or Wash @ 90-95oC.RinseDrop cold, < 55oC.
Temp
130
110
90
70
50
90oC
70oC
50oC
130oC x 45’
70oC
2o/min
1o/min
2o/min
3o/min
2o/min1o/min
Conventional Microfibre
Rate of r
ise dep
ends o
n the m
achine
liquor i
nterch
ange and dye
type.
Tip : Plait down fabric evenly
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
NEARGAL HP-MF Dispersant and levelling agent.New Levels without retarding, so perfect for micofibres.
Oligomer dispersant, so minimal WR problems. Proven in yarn package dyeing. ( See later presentation.)
LUBRIFIL LAF Emulsifier, anticrease and compatibiliser. Emulsifies de dusting agents and residual oils. Enhances Heat Setting efficiency. Reduces creasing and abrasion. A problem solver.
Auxiliaries 1
Microfibre Dyeing Auxiliaries: Must take account of....Fibre variations in dpf, cross section, texturising and polymer type.Variations in dye types, helping to balance strike and migration.The inevitable carry-over of residues and contamination into the dye bath.
Dyeing 4.1
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
NAISTAT 1350 Oil scavenger, anticrease, lubricant, finishing agent.High affinity for polyester allows displacement ofresidual oils from polyester.Powerful lubricity to reduce abrasion and creases.Durable finish; antistat, soil release, soft andhydrophilic.
NEARCHEL TMC High Temperature stable sequesterant.Suitable for preparation and bleaching.Disaggregates dyes for penetration.Powerful metal binding, even at high temperatures.
MATEXIL LN-RD High activity levelling agent.For light or problem shades.Success over Lyogen DMF, Levenol, Sunsalt LM7.
Auxiliaries 2
Dyeing 4.2
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingAuxiliary Solutions
Dyeing 4.3
Problems
Rapid dye uptake rate. (Actually ~ x 4)
Residues from spinning and preparation.
Poor penetration.
Crease problems.
Varying filament dye uptake.
Auxiliary Solutions
Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL HP-MF NewNEARGAL SD-PE
Emulsifier and Scavenger LUBRIFIL LAFNAISTAT 1350
Oligomer Dispersant NEARGAL HP-MF NewPenetration aid LUBRIFIL LAF
NAISTAT 1350Dye Dispersant NEARGAL DN
Anticrease agent LUBRIFIL LAFNAISTAT 1350
Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL SD-PENEARGAL HP-MF New
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingAuxiliaries 3
Some Recipes
Basic (For blends or 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE 1 g/l
Problem shades (For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lNEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l
Problem fabrics (For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lNAISTAT 1350 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE 1.5 g/l
Problem fabrics and shades (For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN 0.5 - 1 g/lNEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/lNAISTAT 1350 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l
Dyeing 4.4
Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m)
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
Microfibre Dye Selection: Must take account of....Compatibility and suitability for the application.
The wash fastness requirements on medium to heavy shades.The rapid buildup and levelling problems on fine fibres.The mixture of fibre type in many microfibres.
Dyeing 5.1Dyes : General
Pales shades B class dyes give :…- the best levelness and coverage.- compatibility in trichromatic shades.
Medium / Heavy C class dyes give :…- good levelness and coverage.- good general compatibility.- all round fastness properties.
All dye variations or incompatibilities are exaggerated when dyeing Microfibres.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.2Buildup
Colour Build-up “rule of thumb” : fine filaments dye light, course filaments dye dark.
Fothergills equation.(in 1944)
C1 W2C2 W1
C1 & C2 = % dye applied. W1 & W2 = DPF of fibrils.
=
Disperse Blue 56 Build-up
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% 6% 7%% dye applied
Re
leti
ve
Str
en
gth
5.6 dpf
1.4 dpf
0.57 dpf
This equation does not take account of delustering agents, fibre cross section, orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.3
Fastness
Light Fastness “rule of thumb” : reductions of 0.5 to 1.5 point for Micro vs regular fibre.
The high surface area exposes more dye to UV light, thus reducing light fastness.
Testing : Xenotest vs wool standards.ISO 105 B02 InternationalBS 1006 B02 BritishDIN 54004 German
This may restrict dye selection, especially for sportswear.Trevira Finesse Specified @ 5Trevira Micronesse Specified @ 4-5Coolmax Specified @ ??
UV absorbers can be added to the disperse dyebath for the highest standards.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.4
Fastness
Wash Fastness : a constant problem.THE CAUSES ?
• High surface area, means a greater amount of surface dye present.• Weight Reduced fibres have oligomer residues that can reduce fastness.• Weight Reduced fibres have a rough surface that can act as a store for
oligomer and surface dye. • WR on delusted fibres leave pores, that act as reservoirs of surface dye.• Spandex Microfibre may have silicone residues that reduce fastness.
THE REMEDIES ?
• A very effective wash after Weight Reduction is essential.• A very effective high temperature Reduction Clear and wash is essential.• A double Reduction Clear may be required.• Use of wetting, penetrating and dispersing auxiliaries in both WR wash
and RC.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing
NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye. Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.
NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.
Reduction Clear
@ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/lNEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l
(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone
creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.5
Dyes :
The best dyes to use on polyester are :
Those with Identical Exhaustion RatesEasy clearing dyes : eg
Diester dyes Azo-Thiophene dyes
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 6Conjugates :
With certain types of conjugate filament….
The compliment or core polymer fibrils may “grin” throughthe shade, creating a streaky, speckled and uneven look.This mainly occurs where :- the compliment fibril is only shocked (by swelling or physical
cracking) rather than dissolving.- the complimentary fibril is a major part.- the conjugate microfibre is a major component of the fabric.- the nylon component is not structurally covered by polyester.
Regain solidity of shade by overdyeing with acid dyes.
NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingExample 1Light Weight Silk
Pre-steam if possible.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”.Wash and scour with
NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/lNEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/lRinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse again until neutral.Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems.
RC as for WR Washing.
Finish by padding @ 60% PUNEARFINISH M88 20 g/l
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”.
Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil Scour system
Dispersing and Washing system.
Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.
Bodied Finish Softener
Desize / Scour & Relax
Pre Heat Set
Weight Reduce
Dye
Finish with Dry Mild Set
Simple Process
Wash off
RC
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingExample 2
Sports Wear - Spandex
Wash, scour and relax withNEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.
Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE leveling problems.
Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse againFinish by exhaust @ 80oC
NAISTAT 1350 4% owf
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.
Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil Scour system
Dispersing and Washing system.
Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.
Soft hydrophIlic, soil releaseantistatic finish.
Desize / Scour & Relax
Pre Heat Set
Dye
Finish with Dry Mild Set
Normal Process
RC
Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingThe Products The Process The AdvantageNEARFIL FAC Deaeration No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch
Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease
NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps
Dyeing Disaggregator NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching
Bleach White nylonNEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner.NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveller NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch
Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release
NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic NEARSOPHT BF100 Finishing Full body cationic. NEARFINISH M88 Finishing Bodied effect.