metal lathe toolbox

instructables

Metal Lathe Toolbox

by bongodrummer

Welcome Friend. We've been frustrated with the amount of clutter around the metal lathe. There's a lot of auxiliary kitneeded to make projects with it! Let's x that with some full extension tool-box draws. The goal is to make a toolbox likethe expensive ones you see in the shops, but that ts nicely inside this lathe. Oh, and I want to make it from scrap steel Ialready have.

Wrapped up in this organizational re-jig, is the task of moving and leveling the lathe. It's been quite a few years and wenow have a good idea where in the shop we want it.Supplies:

I was lucky in that I already had some full extension drawer slides I could use for this project - We had a batch from e-bayyears ago. If you need some look here for some heavy-duty ones https://ebay.us/w6a251

The sheet steel used to form the drawers was roughly 1.5mm (1/16") thick and came from various places, much of it wasfrom an old gas boiler enclosure.

The threaded rods we used to level and mount the lathe were high tensile M14 like these: https://ebay.us/ClMigd

I'm using a MIG welder. Tig would probably be better for this thin sheet work, but just about any welder can be made towork.

Metal Lathe Toolbox:

http://www.instructables.com

http://www.instructables.com/Metal-Lathe-Toolbox/

http://www.instructables.com/member/bongodrummer/

https://ebay.us/w6a251

https://ebay.us/ClMigd

Step 1: Moving

https://youtu.be/RVTimNVKtSA

Deciding on the position of your big tools in a workshop is tricky and will impact the way you make things. It's worthconsidering carefully. In our case, the lathe had been in a sort-of convenient location for ages - the worst kind of not-quite-right, as it's hard to get motivated to change it. On the plus side, because we have lots of experience with how wetend to use it, we knew better where it should go.

We moved it with an engine hoist, a long lever, and some grunting. The lathe weighs ~750kgs (1650lb).


Step 2: Threaded Rod Mounting


We used a 'no-measure' method to attach the lathe to the concrete oor. It involved placing the lathe where we wantedit on some scraps of plywood. Marking the mounting holes on the ply, and drawing on the oor, around the ply sheets.


Step 3: Mistakes

The holes in the oor that would accept the threaded rod were drilled with an SDS drill, through the pre-drilled holes inthe ply scraps. Unfortunately, one of the ply sheets was ipped over! So when we came to move the lathe onto the'permanently' installed threaded rods it didn't even come close to tting - OOPS

"Did you measure twice?" Sam asked me. "I didn't measure at all," says I.


Step 4: Position and Levelling

Once that was corrected (with the angle grinder) and redone, we used nuts and an engineer's level to carefully level thelathe. It took quite a while.


Step 5: Prep the Toolbox Frame (Lathe)

The lathe stand is made from bent and welded sheet metal. The two pillars on either side, that actually support the lathe,are quite thick metal, but I noticed while we were moving it how imsy the central 'bracing' was. "It's all just wastedspace," thought I. "Let's use the space more e ciently".


So centres were punched and holes were drilled and tapped. Then we attached the roller drawer slides that hadlanguished at the back of the cupboard in deep storage for many years.


Step 6: Drawers A) Welding Scraps

We cut the metal with the angle grinder and the new(ish) cold cut saw. Scraps were welded together to make bigger bitsthat could form appropriately-large drawer shapes.

Before nalizing the dimensions, I attached the sliders to the sides and put them in place on the lathe. Then the base ofthe drawers was tack welded to the drawer sides in situ - so I knew the sides would be the right distance apart. Theycould then be taken away from the lathe for further welding.


Step 7: Drawers B) Fitting

A couple of notes on the fabbing process. It's easy to burn holes through thin sheet metal like this. My method was to'stitch weld', which you can see in the video... It looks very rough at this point, but fear not, it will clean up a goodun.

It's probably not as strong to use lots of little o -cut pieces like this, but it does mean you are preventing the awkwardbits becoming waste rather than creating more.


Step 8: Weight Testing

We put some heavy stu in to see how things were.


Step 9: Drawers C) Reinforcing - Adding Strength

The centre of the drawers exed more than we liked, so we added some bracing.


Step 10: Heavy Things in Cupboards

In general, it makes sense to store the heavier things, like big solid lumps of steel in non-moving places, like cupboards.

We cut a hole in the supporting pillar to make a cupboard. There was already a hole round the back, which allowedaccess to the coolant pump. That would be very di cult to get to with the lathe in its new position though.

The back hole was sealed up and some reinforcing was welded in to maintain/increase strength.


Step 11: Heavy Things in the Cupboard 2


Step 12: Drawer Handles

The door was made from a scrap of 'showerwall' - it's a mica (I think) lined plywood that seems to come up in skips quiteoften. It's strong stable stu . A small rare earth magnet is used as a closure.


These were made from some scrap aluminium extrusion. Fixing them required some nut n bolt modding but turned outnicely.


Step 13: Rust Protection (snazzing Up)

Time to cover up all that horrible welding. Wire brush and sander were employed before wiping it all down with panelwipe (a solvent).

Any bare metal got etch primer, and then the whole thing became blue thanks to some left-over car paint from thisproject :)


https://youtu.be/BEZf1tfxepQ

Step 14: Foam Inserts (old Yoga Mat)

An old yoga mat was used to line the drawers. It works a treat to stop the tools from sliding around and keeps 'em snugat night.


Step 15: Organize Tools Into New Home!

Top drawer front - gets all the used very often tools


Top drawer back - less often in use, but still common

Middle drawer front - bigger items, used often

Middle drawer back - big, lesser used items

Bottom drawer - bigger items still, least often used.

Quite a speci c 'able this one, but hopefully you got some idea or interest from it. Thanks for looking :)


Nice, I started out on a old Logan many years ago and wished I had draws then, so I found oldtop box and we built up to just go under it with wheels. Here’s why I’m say this, I cut a piece of 1”plywood on top to use as a desk top to do my hand work on and reports, the company did workfor NASA. That’s idea you should have a small work table that pulled out for hand work or test fitor set your beer on when finished and admiring your work. But y’all did great job and alwaysuseful.

Hey Jake, yeah nice idea with the work table. ATM I have a weird trolly (kinda like the thing youget food and drinks from on a train) that works as my by-the-lathe working table. A pull out one would have been very cool.

You have added a great tool to your shop, and have the boss involved too:) :)There are so many projects you can do now that you have a lathe.Something that may have an interest with you.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVgZol6Mfvo

Hey Jester, thanks for that, and for the link too :)

That's amazing & genius.

["Did you measure twice?" Sam asked me. "I didn't measure at all," says I.]

This is the story of my life Also the yoga mat is a great idea for lining, I never thought abouthow similar the liners for toolboxes are to those!

Hey Jossyratfink. Thanks for commenting. Yeah, I was pleased with how the yoga mat workedand it means I can stop being embarrassed, showing up to class with a big muddy grass stain onmy old mat ;)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVgZol6Mfvo

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