Reading between the lines

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The Angel

walk of lifeby adam richmond

*Money’s tight, it’s getting hot and you can’t remember the last time you had a moment to reflect. On the tube I can only hang my head; buried in the dirty words of a tabloid hack; fingerprint smudges of the day, boring and sliding among the valleys of my skin, to remain a thick black smudge of lies caking my skin and weighing me down in an abrasive seat. There must be something else, a world outside of the dull rocking of the tube or the vague threat of the bus, free from awkward silence and the faces buried in the free papers. A world outside…

Walk out of Angel tube and don’t even consider walking up the becushioned swank of

Upper Street or near the standard fare shopping mall. Sure there is plenty to do up the Angel, but this is supposed to be invigorating and refreshing, so do yourself a favour, and stick a left.

Straight across the road and you can nip into one of London’s finest pubs, The Old Red Lion. Boasting a theatre upstairs that showcases an impressive array of plays, the pub itself has character and warmth in spades.

Back out, continue left down St John’s Street, veering right down Rosebery Avenue. Sadler’s Wells theatre and trees dappled with fairy lights greet you. Saunter along and Exmouth Market hails into view. This unassuming hub of activity boasts a solid set of kebab shops, various cafes, top of the class restaurant Moro and a smattering of ale houses, the best being The Wilmington Arms. Have something fancy. Or stick a Subway in your gob and get going.

At bottom of Rosebery Avenue you can choose to enjoy the artistic and cerebral delights of Magma, or the pound-in-a-pint glass strip joint The Griffin. Or maybe sample both – bury your face in a lush art magazine and then bury your face into the crotch of a traffiked sex worker (that nagging feeling might be guilt, arousal... or perhaps disgust). Suitably informed and dirtied it’s time to move on. Turn right up Theobald’s

Road and the rush of traffic and smog may sting your eyes, but you’re outside damn you. Feel free to nip right down Lambs Conduit Street (half way along Theobald’s) for a charming array of off-beat shops and The Perseverance pub, but if you want to get cracking stay the course and damn the consequences.

As you near Holborn you’ll walk past Fryer’s Delight, a top draw fish and chip shop and no mistake. Stay for a sit down fish supper, mushy peas and cup of builder’s tea, or just grab a bag of chips and battered sausage for the walk.

Hit Holborn and you may falter. The bottle neck by the tube is packed with the dragging mass of London’s worst – people going to and from work – take the edge off in the Princess Louise, a Samuel Smith’s pub – which means you can drink for under 2 quid a pint – and in some of the finest surroundings around.

Down the solid greys of Kingsway, the towering buildings may seem oppressive, but follow their lines to the blue sky and soon you’ll be at Aldwych and the Strand. Feel free to take in a show at this point, but if you have any sense you’ll keep going onto Waterloo Bridge (the best bridge in London – go on, tell me I’m wrong). To the right the government shenanigans, Big Ben and the Millennium Wheel all hove into view. Left the Oxo Tower and the Southbank.

Cross the river and hang your hat at the BFI, NFT, or even the Tate Modern. If you’re lucky the secondhand book fair will be on under the bridge. Wander down the river, pick a pub and drink to the dirty blue Thames.

*

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