may - august 2018 no. 2

May - August 2018 No. 2.2

SITRA e -Techletter...News during the last four months

PRODUCTIVITY CONCEPTS...2

INSIDE THIS ISSUE...

KNOW YOUR INSTRUMENT.....7

TRAINING PROGRAMMES....12

SEMINARS AND CONFERENCES..11

ENERGY AUDIT....6

TEXTILE TITBIDS....10

TECH NOTES....3

PAPER REVIEW....13

STAFF PARTICIPATION....15

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PRODUCTIVITY CONCEPTS

Market Performance Evaluation Index (MPEI) (April 2013 – June 2018)

The trend in the movement of the commercial efficiency for the past 63 months (i.e. from April 2013 – June 2018) is shown in Figures 1 and 2.

Figure 1 Market Performance Evaluation Index (MPEI)

50

75

100

125

Apr

.13

Oct

.

Apr

.14

Oct

.

Apr

.15

Oct

.

Apr

.16

Oct

.16

Apr

.17

Oct

.17

Apr

.18

Month and year (2013-18)

MP

EI (

Mar

ket

Perf

orm

ance

Eva

luat

ion

Ind

ex)

100

93

93

87

93

86

77

80

85

81

72

85

79

82

7270

8286

71

67

88

76

84

In May 2018, the MPEI had recovered from a steady downfall since January 2018, as the index started to recover back by 4 points when compared with the index that prevailed in April 2018. This is because of the increase in yarn selling price index by 2 points (Figure 2) and raw material cost index by 1 point, when compared with the indices that prevailed in the previous month. In June 2018, the MPEI recovery was also positive for the industry with a further increase of 4 points. Though there was an increase in raw material cost index by 3 points in June 2018, nevertheless, the increase in yarn selling price index by 3 points had contributed to the overall recovery of MPEI.

CONSULTANCY OFFERED.....14

lab.sitraonline.org/sitraenews/



No. 2.2

PRODUCTIVITY CONCEPTS

Figure 2 Yarn selling price index (YSPI) and Raw material cost index (RMCI)

50

75

100

125

Apr

.13

Oct

.

Apr

.14

Oct

.

Apr

.15

Oct

.

Apr

.16

Oct

.16

Apr

.17

Oct

.17

Apr

.

Month and year (2013-18)

100

10

3

10

4

94

87

88

86

114 11

8

93

115

91

119

119

110

94

92

96

RMC Index

YSP

Index

102

109

94 100

116

Market Performance Evaluation Index (MPEI) of cotton yarns is based on the average net out-put value [yarn selling price – clean raw material cost] in terms of Rs per kg of yarn for the 12 popular counts (40s K, 40s C, 60s C, 80s C, 100s C, 40s C-Comp., 50s C-Comp., 60s C-Comp., 80s C-Comp., 30s CH, 40s CH and 30s CH-Ex.). In January 2018, the MPEI was at 88 which in turn were the highest since April 2017. Since then it had followed a continuous downfall by 9 points up to April 2018 and in June 2018, it had recovered back to 84. Observations based on the analysis of the commercial performance of the above counts for the past 6 months are given below. The

average clean raw material cost, yarn selling price and net out-put value of the above counts are shown in Table 1.

- Out of 12 counts, the commercial efficiency i.e. net out-put value had registered an overall increase of 2% in 4 counts (60s C, 40s C-Comp., 50s C-Comp, 60s C-Comp. and 30s CH-Ex.). Between counts, the increase ranged from a low of 0.7% in 60s C-Comp. to a high of 4.3% increase in 30s CH-Ex. count. In the remaining 8 counts the net out-put value had witnessed an overall drop of 7%. The drop was found to be severe in 80s C and 100s C counts (11% and 15% respectively).

- Between months, the net out-put value was found to be fluctuating widely in 80s C, 80s C-Comp. and 100s C counts (Standard deviation: 9.3%, 13.5% and 33% respectively). This in turn was mainly (65%) due to wide fluctuations in the yarn selling price and partly (35%) due to wide fluctuations in the clean raw material cost of the above counts. On the other hand, the fluctuation in net out-put value was found to be minimum in 40s K and 30s CH counts (Std. dev.: 2.7).

- The overall raw material cost relative to yarn selling price had registered an increase of 2.8% ranging from a marginal increase of 0.4 percentage point increase in 60s C to a high increase of 7.5 percentage point in 100s C count.

Table 1 Yarn selling price, clean raw material cost and net out-put value (January – June 2018)

(Rs/kg of yarn)

Count

Yarn selling price

Clean raw material cost

Net out-put value

Jan.

Feb.

Mar.

Apr.

May.

Jun.

Jan.

Feb.

Mar.

Apr.

May.

Jun.

Jan.

Feb. Mar. Apr. May. Jun.

40s K

215

208

208

210

214

218

134

135

133

135

138

142

81

73 75 75 76 76

40s C

231

225

226

228

233

237

144

154

152

152

152

157

87

71 74 76 81 80

60s C

277

273

270

272

277

288

153

158

155

156

156

161

124

115 115 116 121 127

80s C

346

333

329

327

323

335

167

159

163

169

167

175

179

174 166 158 156 160

100s C

418

480

411

403

395

416

202

233

203

241

232

232

216

247 208 162 163 184

40s C-Comp.

240

240

239

243

249

254

145

150

157

158

157

157

95

90 82 85 92 96

50s C-Comp.

280

282

277

282

287

292

151

152

162

163

164

161

129

130 115 119 123 131

60s C-Comp.

292

291

288

290

297

311

152

157

159

163

160

170

140

134 129 127 137 141

80s C-Comp.

398

377

353

348

375

398

188

193

170

175

190

197

210

184 183 173 185 201

30s CH 204 207 207 208 210 218 136 140 145 146 148 153 68 67 62 62 62 65

40s CH 225 221 222 225 226 238 144 151 153 155 151 160 81 70 69 70 75 78

30s CH-Ex. 198 205 201 200 228 213 128 134 145 136 151 140 70 71 56 64 77 73

J.SreenivasanLiaison &

Consultation Division

May - August 2018

No. 2.2

TECH NOTES

Tribo electric effect and its influence on textile mechanical processing of synthetic fibres – Part 2

1. Spin finishes

In the production of artificial fibres such as polyamide and polyester, a compound oil is sprayed over the fibre surface to reduce static electricity and friction as well as to enhance the other physical characteristics of the fibre. This process is known as spin finish application. This is also generally referred in different countries as spin finish, oil pick- up (OPU) and finish on yarn (FOY). An ideal spin finish application should provide good lubrication effect, cohesion and antistatic properties. The three main objectives of a spin finish are to ensure optimum fiber friction, low fly generation and a rapid dissipation of static charge. In general, the fibre manufacturers apply a specific level of spin finish to the tune of around 0.14% to 0.15% on weight of the fibre material. The application of spin finish plays an important role in the mechanical processing of synthetic fibres. The quality and quantity of spin finish applied during the manufacture of man-made fibres are of considerable importance for satisfactory spinning performance and yarn quality. The requirements are constantly changing due to the developments of wider product range like dyed fibres, microfibers and also for fibres developed for special end uses. In addition, the requirements have to meet the developments in the machines like higher speeds for increased productivity. The level of spin finish application is different for the synthetic fibres processed in ring and rotor spinning systems. Rotor spinning requires fibres with less spin finish as compared to ring spinning system. While the amount of spin finish in polyester for ring spun yarn varies between 0.16% and 0.18%, fibres suitable for rotor spinning require only 0.12% to 0.14%. However, for viscose material the application of spin finish is between 0.25% and 0.30% for better performance at the customer end. Finish levels above or below this range may result in insufficient fibre cohesion or cause some deposits at the spinning elements, which in turn may lead to more ends down. In the rotor spinning elements like opening roller, fibre transport channel require low friction finishes which prevent electrostatic charging of the fibres, thereby reduce fibre / metal friction and also to avoid dust formation. The high rotational speed of the opening roller and rotor generate heat due to high frictional force. The thermal energy thus generated destroys the lubricating film. 2. General requirements of a spin finish

In general, the spin finish basically performs three functions. ªControl of friction between fibre to fibre and fibre to metal in the processªReduction of accumulation of static charges and ªImproving the cohesion for better strength.

To perform the above mentioned three functions, the spin finish should meet the following requirements.ªShould have lubrication propertyªShould not be toxic and create health hazardsªShould have antistatic properties and ªEase of removal before wet processingªMaintain optimum coefficient of friction between fibre to fibre and fibre to metal and also prevent fibre abrasion.ªReduce the static charge generation and inhibit any bacterial growth.

3. Major components of spin finish

In general, the principal ingredients of spin finish formulation include three types of products.

May - August 2018

TECH NOTES

No. 2.2

ªLubricant - mineral oil, ester oil, ethylene oxide / propylene oxide (40% to 60%)ªAntistatic agent - phosphoric acid and esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohol ( 10% to 25%) andªEmulsifier - soap, non-ionic or anionic surface active agents (15% to 30%).

Minor ingredients like antioxidants, viscosity modifiers and friction modifiers are used in small quantities of about 1.5% of the total emulsion when compared to the major components.

4. Application of spin finish

Synthetic fibres in staple fibre form used in the spinning mills like polyester and acrylic are more prone to static electricity and likely to develop high static charges during spinning and winding. The charge accumulation can be kept under control by the application of a suitable spin finish. These spin finishes are normally applied immediately after the extrusion. In the case of polyester fibres, the spin finish is applied twice. It means around 0.06% to 0.07% is applied immediately after extrusion to impart the fibres an anti-static property and adequate cohesion. As this finish will get washed off at the draw line, a second finish is applied after crimping usually by a spray method which helps in processing the fibres in the spinning line. In general, the spin finish is applied in the form of a water based emulsion.

5. Importance of spin finishes in mechanical processing of synthetic fibres in spinning

In general, the spin finish applied in the fibre manufacturing process should be able to provide smooth processing of fibres in the spinning line under the recommended ambient conditions of the various departments. If the recommended temperature and relative humidity is difficult to be maintained by mills, they should ensure that additional spin finish is applied during processing. The amount of spin finish applied has a considerable influence on the mechanical processing of fibres in spinning.

Blow room: Normally, the additional spin finish should be applied on fibres and allowed to cure for minimum 8-12 hrs for the absorption by fibres. Spin finish applied during running of bale pluckers will not result in the expected level of performance improvement as there is no curing time. Excessive application of spin finish will result in difficulty in opening of fibres, chocking of fibres in beater zone and higher level of neps. Insufficient spin finish will cause static charge, fly liberation and contribute to some amount of nep increase due to static charge. Hence, the optimum level should be arrived by small batch trials in relation with the ambient conditions.

Carding : Fiber to fibre and fibre to metal friction occurs due to the heat generated in the machine components the friction would lead the spin finish to become volatile which causes the fibers to develop static charges. Hence, the finish applied should possess a good anti-static property by providing adequate fibre cohesion, without any card loading / web falling out and deposit formation.

Drawing: Fibre to metal friction takes place due to the higher delivery speed of the drafting rollers. Hence, the spin finish applied to the fibres should provide optimum fibre to metal friction.

Speed frames: Due to the gradual reduction in the spin finish concentration in the preparatory processes due to the frictional contact

May - August 2018

TECH NOTES

No. 2.2

with the machinery parts and also due to the temperatures and relative humidity in the department, in speed frames, an inadequate spin finish would lead to lapping of fibres on the bottom metal rollers and fly liberation which would lead to choking inside the flyer. Similarly, excessive oil application will lead to difficulty in drafting as well as lapping of fibres on the top rollers.

Ring spinning:Inadequate amount of spin finish would lead to lapping of fibres on bottom rollers, premature wear out of travellers and loading of fibres on travellers, resulting in ends down in spinning and the excess amount lead to random undrafts and lapping on top drafting rollers. Hairiness of the yarn will also vary in relation with the quantity of spin finish and department ambient condition.

Winding : The percentage of increase in IPI and hairiness will increase in case of low spin finish levels. Also yarn lapping on the winding drums will be more resulting in poor package quality.

Rotor spinning : It should provide low fibre to fibre / fibre to metal friction and least dynamic friction, combined with good thermal stability without fusing.

6. Relative humidity and temperature in various departments

7. Measurement of static electricity

Various models of instruments are available for the measurement of build-up of static charges on the fibrous assembly in the spinning processes. The most common method of measuring the static charge is by using a portable static meter. This is a non contact type measuring instrument. When the sensor is pointed towards the running material at a distance of 1” approximately the sensor will be induced based on the amount of static charge accumulated. Accumulation of static field is measured using a small metal plate sensor and output is shown in KV. In carding, the static charge is measured by placing the static meter above the card web / sliver running between calendar roller to coiler. In carding, the experience value should be less at 1 – 1.5KV. In ring frames, the static charge should ideally be zero, but in any case the static charge developed should be lower than 0.1-0.2KV to avoid static related problems.

D. Jayaraman and G. NagarajanSpinning division

May - August 2018

Sl.No. Department Relative humidity (RH%)

/ Temperature (? C)

Moisture content

(g/kg) of dry air

1 Blow Room 55 – 60 / 27 - 30 8.5 to 11 2 Carding 50 - 55 / 27- 30 8.5 to 11 3

Draw frame

50 -

55 / 27-

30

8.5 to 11

4

Speed frame

45 –

50 / 27-

29

8.5 to 11

5

Ring frame

about 50 / 27-

29

8.5 to 11

6

Winding

55 –

60 / 27-

29

10.5 to 13

7

Rotor spinning

45 –

55 / 27-

29

9.5

to 11.5

ENERGY AUDIT

No. 2.2

May - August 2018

RECONFIGURATION OFSITRA ENERGY AUDIT SERVICES TO SPINNING MILLS

Mills are aware of SITRA's Energy Cell, comprising of experienced engineers in various disciplines such as Electrical, Mechanical and Textile Engineering, has been undertaking Energy audits, Energy conservation studies and Training programmes for textile mills for the past 3 decades. SITRA has successfully carried out more than 1000 energy audits in textile mills, both in India and abroad, till now.

The normalization factors for computing 40's converted UKG for spinning mills developed by SITRA has been approved by Bureau of Energy Efficiency (BEE), Ministry of power, Government of India. SITRA's energy audits are approved by TNEB, KSEB, GEDA, PCRA & BEE and SITRA also has Certified Lead auditors for ISO 50001:2011 Energy Management Systems (EnMS).

The Accreditation Advisory Committee of the Bureau of Energy Efficiency (BEE), Ministry of power, Government of India has recommended and recognized SITRA as an Accredited Energy Auditor under the PAT scheme; the details of which are available on the website of BEE (www.bee-india.nic.in) and energy professional website (www.energymanagertraining.com).

Under the new offer for the benefit of member mills, SITRA is proposing a dynamic and economical pricing policy for this most sought after service - Energy Audit in Spinning, Weaving and processing mills.

Under the new proposal, SITRA shall undertake a complete study of electrical network covering HT yard to point of consumption with main focus on aspects like electrical system design, energy saving, energy efficiency, operation and maintenance, etc.

Mechanical engineering includes a comprehensive study of mill humidification, air compressor, boiler, thermopac systems, from energy conservation point of view.

Study of the complete range of production machinery including ginning, spinning, doubling, weaving, knitting, processing, garmenting, etc. and study of non-productive ancillaries such as AWES, OHTC and pneumafils includes optimization of machine and process parameters for energy savings.

Interested mills are requested to write to us and specific proposals shall be sent to them, based on their installed machinery capacity.

Know Your Instrument USTER Classimat 5

No. 2.2

Infrequent yarn faults are long thick places, long thin places, thick ends, spinner's doubles, etc., and are rare so that a longer length of yarn needs to be analysed. The Classimat system enables a quick and objective estimate of these types of faults. In this context, we are pleased to inform that SITRA has an USTER Classimat 5 installation. The Uster Classimat 5 gives all the traditional classification standards, while broadening its focus on estimation of foreign fibre contaminations, periodic faults etc., The Uster Classimat-5 also provides conversion values of the previous Classimat generations (Classimat Quantum & Classimat 3). Here, classing of yarns faults into 30 thick and 15 thin places are done based on the length and dimension of the faults.

Results available with the Uster Classimat 5 tester:

a. Standard and extended NSLT classes of faults b. Visual representation of the yarn body profilec. Dense area for foreign matter (FD)d. Dense area for Vegetable matter (VEG)e. Scatter plot for Polypropylene (PP)f. Quality outliers

This latest generation Classimat 5 brings quality assurance to a new level, introducing a range of new features and capabilities which redefine this instrument and make it an indispensible testing and decision tool for both producers and users of yarn. Further, comprehensive comparison possibilities with integrated Uster Statistics benchmarks facilitate checks against global quality standards.

Uster Classimat was introduced four decades ago to identify and remove the seldom occurring yarn faults. Over a period of time it was modified and updated continually. But, now understanding the stringent quality requirements of the market, Uster Technologies have come out with the new classification system i.e. USTER CLASSIMAT 5. Most technically-advanced sensors and superior hardware help to detect and classify all types of faults present in the yarn. Apart from the fundamental classification based on thick and thin places, UCM 5 has broadened its scope to cover foreign matter, Polypropylene contamination, unevenness, hairiness and periodic faults. It also offers expected values of Classimat Quantum and Classimat 3 systems and provides an opportunity for the customer to have relative comparison with respective versions.

Special features of USTER Classimat 5 system

The USTER Classimat 5 detects and classifies yarn events for thick and thin places (NSLT) in 45 classes. The detection of neps, long thick and thin places has been considerably improved with the enhanced technology.

Yarn Body: It is a new visual representation of the yarn providing the classification matrix; where vertical scale shows yarn mass variation and horizontal scale shows fault length in cm. The dark green area represents real yarn body. Yarn body changes with the raw material and the spinning process. The narrower the yarn body, more even is the yarn and better is the fabric appearance. Yarn clearing can be used only for removing the non-frequent yarn faults above and below the yarn body.

May - August 2018

Know Your Instrument USTER Classimat 5

No. 2.2

Foreign matter: The powerful new sensor technology can detect defects of any short and light-coloured ones, which separate the foreign matter as coloured foreign fibres and vegetable matter. Compared to co loured fore ign f ibres , vegetable matter is considered as 'non-disturbing'. For the first time the polypropylene, critical contamination from the source of package material in the cotton and cotton blended yarn can be detected and classified by the novel sensor as below 10 mm and above 10 mm.

Periodic fault classification: The moiré effect in the woven and knitted fabric is a result of periodic faults in the yarn. CMT

5 deals with the issue with the classification of periodic faults displayed in a special bubble graphic. The severity of the defects is based on the size and placement of the bubble in the classification matrix.

Outliers: The defective bobbins contain defects falling outside the normal distribution and are the cause for damaging fabric appearance and lower productivity. This applies to all fault categories, such as thick and thin places, unevenness, imperfections, hairiness and foreign-matter. These few bobbins are called 'outliers'. USTER CLASSIMAT 5 introduces measurement of outliers and provides detailed outlier information for all fault categories. Outliers are classified in neps, short thick, long thick and thin places (NSLT), foreign-matter including polypropylene and key quality parameters.

Clearing Index-powerful optimization tool: Even when spinning mills are using a number of different yarn clearer types to control yarn quality during winding, optimum limits and quality consistency are vital. Spinning mills have to ensure similar quality, even if they use different yarn clearer models for clearing the same yarn. CMT-5 offers a feature called clearing limit analysis wherein, the spinner can test yarns produced using different clearers and will be able to arrive at optimized clearing limits for each type.

Comprehensive comparison of yarn qualities: The special new tool summarizes and comprehensively compares the full range of quality classification provided by the Uster Classimat 5 where spinners can match their yarns with particular end use. Based on various options like count, cotton type, source, supplier, etc., users can compare five different yarns at a time.

May - August 2018

Know Your Instrument Fabric Touch Tester (FTT)

No. 2.2May - August 2018

Fabric touch properties are extremely important for apparel and textile industry. Studies on fabric hand properties have been conducted for many years. However, none of the currently available testing instruments address simultaneous measurements of different aspects of fabric touch. The Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) simultaneously measures physical properties related to touch feels of various fabric structures using the following in four modules:

# Compression # Thermal # Bending # Surface friction

The comprehensive, sophisticated design of the FTT enables it to measure all the mechanical and surface properties of fabric in one simple test.

FTT primary hand values illustrates the predicted touch/hand feel of samples. The higher value of fabric primary touch/hand – smoothness means a smoother surface; the higher value of fabric primary touch/hand – softness means a softer sample; and the higher value of fabric primary touch/hand – warmness hand means a warmer sample. Primary touch feels mean the feeling when contact samples passively, i.e. wearing. Primary hand feels mean the feeling when contact samples actively, i.e. hand evaluation. FTT therefore tests fabric physical properties on both sides. Results obtained from surface side are used to calculate hand feels while those from bottom side are used for touch feels. Total comforts under both circumstances are evaluated as well.

SITRA has recently installed this equipment in its CoE physical testing laboratory. Mills are invited to send their fabric samples to test the touch properties.

SITRA's Council of Administration Meetings

The 200th meeting of SITRA's Council of Administration was held at Hotel Taj Vivanta, Coimbatore.

The 201st meeting was held at SITRA on 23rd August, 2018

(Members of Council of Administration, SITRA at the 200th meeting)

TEXTILE TITBITS

NOV

No. 2.2

Textiles as a storage medium

Researchers from the University of Washington were recently successful in developing an intelligent textile product that works without any external power source, meaning it can be washed and ironed: a standard shirt that functions as a data storage medium. A conductive yarn was used for this purpose, which is already used in gloves to operate touchscreens, for instance. By magnetising the yarn in the shirt sleeve, the researchers were able to integrate an access code used to access security zones. Doors can be opened by moving the sleeve in front of the control panel. Data saved in the textile material by polarising the conductive yarn can be read with a magnetometer. With this technology, people will be able to carry large amounts of data directly on their bodies.

Introducing user-controlled colour-changing fabric

CREOL, The College of Optics & Photonics at The University of Central Florida (UCF), has announced active user-controlled colour-changing fabric. The fabric, developed by a team of UCF scientists, allows the user/wearer to change the colour or pattern of the fabric through their smartphone. This colour change differs from previous “colour-changing” fabrics on the market, which contain LEDs that emit light of various colours.

Instead, CREOL's ChroMorphous technology enables an innovative capability: user-controlled, dynamic colour and pattern change in large woven fabrics and cut-and-sewn textile products. Each thread woven into the fabric incorporates within it a thin metal micro-wire. An electric current flows through the micro-wires, thus slightly raising the thread's temperature. Special pigments embedded in the thread then respond to this modification of temperature by changing its colour. The technology allows the user to control both when the colour change happens and the intended pattern to appear on the fabric. Using an app, the consumer can choose from a variety of patterns and colours to suit their need or mood – all from the tap of a button on their smart device. For example, a solid purple tote bag now has the ability to gradually add blue stripes when you press a “stripe” button on a person’s smartphone or computer, or switch to a solid blue.

Coffee ground fibres

Most coffee drinkers simply throw away coffee ground after making their coffee. But it is an important raw material that can be used to make coffee ground fibres. A Taiwanese textile company Singtex's technology combines the post-patented processed coffee ground with polymer to create master batches before spinning it into yarn. The resulting coffee yarn is multi-functional and can be used in a variety of products, from outdoor and sports performance wear to household items used every day. Fabrics made out of coffee ground fibres offer excellent natural anti-odour qualities, in addition to UV ray protection and a quick drying time. The coffee grounds used to create the yarn are taken and recycled from some of the world's largest coffee vendors. In this way, the company gives a second life to coffee grounds which would have otherwise ended up in the trash. More apparel brands are likely to incorporate coffee ground fibres, with its proven advantages into their collections, in lieu of conventional fabrics.

May - August 2018

New Member Mills of SITRA

The following mill has newly enrolled as a full member of SITRA

1. Jayalakshmi Textile (P) Ltd., Aruppukkottai 2. RSB Cottex Limited, Ahmedabad3. Saravana Polythreads (P) Ltd., Erode.4. Sri Kumaraguru Mills Limited, Pollachi.

SITRA extends a warm welcome to the newly enrolled mills.


SITRA, in association with Radeecal Communications, Admedabad organized Meditex 2018, a medial textiles Conference cum Expo from 6th to 8th June 2018 at Mumbai.

The following seminars were organized as part of Conference

1. Occupational safety for Medical personnel which includes, doctors, nurses and medical staff. Close to 60 delegates participated in the seminar.

2. Opportunities, challenges and innovation in medical textiles. This seminar elucidated the various avenues available in the field of medical textiles and the recent developments in it. Around to 75 delegates participated in it.

SEMINARS AND CONFERENCES

Seminar on Occupational safety

SITRA's stall at Medtiex 2018

The three-day expo witnessed a total footfall of around 2500 persons that included personnel from the medical fraternity, medical textile product manufacturers, students and staff of textile testing industry and entrepreneurs.

No. 2.2

1. Training Programme on “Optimizing raw material and process for augmenting quality in spinning mills”

2. Technical awareness programme

3. Technical awareness programme (NTC)

4. Value added course on “Instrumental analysis”

6. Pre-employment training and retraining programmes for textile workers

The programme, held during August 2018, was conceived with an objective to enlighten the technicians on key areas that would be useful to spinning mills for augmenting quality in their units. Some of the topics covered included optimising Inter-relationship between HVI, AFIS & LCT, interpretation of test results of HVI, AFIS, department-wise machine process parameters optimization and its effect on yarn quality, an assessment of roving strength for better yarn quality and twist contraction in cotton & blended yarns and its effect on quality. Forty six participants took part in the programme.

At the request of M/s. Grasim Industries India Ltd., SITRA conducted a 5-day training programme for their technical personnel during May 2018. Twenty eight participants took part in the programme which covered topics like qality parameters of different textile fibres and their blends, fibre quality parameters of a fibre impacting yarn quality, machine technologies in spinning, process control in spinning, productivity concepts in spinning, yarn realisation and waste control, key areas of cost optimization and control in spinning mills and quality control in fibre, yarn & fabric dyeing process.

At a request from the National Textile Corporation, SITRA conducted a one-day training programme for their newly recruited management trainees. The focus of the programme was to sensitize the participants on the various technical aspects including present textile scenario, spinning process, fiber properties, yarn properties, basic weaving process, etc., Thirty three trainees attended the programme.

As part of value addition courses for their students, a private Arts and Science college in Coimbatore retained SITRA's services to conduct a three-day programme on Instrumental Analysis during July 2018.

Twenty students attended the programme which covered both theoretical and practical demonstrations. The topics covered during the course were,

Ø Introduction and principle of operation of analytical instrumentsØ Analysis on UV – Vis spectrometerØ Analysis on TOC analyserØ Analysis on Atomic absorption spectrometerØ General test parameters for water / biological samplesØ Good laboratory practices, etc.

At the request of member mill in Rajapalayam, SITRA conducted a 5 day training program for their trainers / training officers. The focus of the programme was to sensitize the participants on the various technical aspects involved in spinning mills on topics like the present textile scenario, production and productivity, work load and work assignment, Right work method; absentiem, material handling, housekeeping etc., Eighteen trainers attended the programme.

Three out-station mills and three local mills availed SITRA's training services for their workers. Two hundred and twenty six operatives in preparatory, spinning, and autocone winding departments were trained in 13 batches. The training programmes were conducted in Tamil and Kannada.

5. Training for trainers

TRAINING PROGRAMMES

May - August 2018

No. 2.2

PAPER REVIEW

ELI-TWIST COMPACT YARN: SUBSTITUTION FOR DOUBLE YARNS?Pradymkumar V. Kadole, Saatish S. Lavate, Ramesh N. NarkhedkarD.K.T.E. Society's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji/India

The yarn quality requirements in fabric forming departments due to inception of new high speed technologies have increased. Ring spinning produces yarn with high irregularity and more hairiness resulting in loss of productivity and deterioration in quality in downstream processes. Hence, a modification in the existing ring spinning technology is the present requirement in the competitive textile industry. Eli - Twist is one amongst them which produces compact double yarn used on ring spinning machines . It has all the advantages of condensed spinning and conventional ring and TFO yarn doubling. However, its acceptance in the spinning industry is not in proportion to the advantages offered by it. In conventional ring spinning, yarn hairiness and irregularity are major concerns where yarn plying can reduce this problem with additional processes and cost. The compact system was designed to overcome the problems relating to yarn hairiness and variations, but in the Eli - Twist spinning method, compact spinning and twisting of a yarn are done in one single operation. They are basically compact ring double yarns, in which doubling takes place in the ring frame and yarn is single wound.. It produces a 2-ply yarn with identical direction of twist in both yarn legs as well as in the final yarn. Double yarns produced by the 3 different methods namely combed compact, combed compact TFO doubled and combed TFO doubled yarn were compared by the authors. The yarn properties of grey, dyed and softened yarn samples were compared for their yarn quality attributes. It is reported that the EliTwist yarn showed better yarn quality characteristics as compared to its counterparts.

Materials and methods:

The authors have used 100 % cotton, and the 3 different types of yarns were manufactured (Single yarn count Ne 40) and the

Sr. No. Type of yarn Yarn Count (Ne)

1.

Elitwistyarn

2/40s

2.

Combed compact TFO doubled yarn 2/40s

3.

Combed TFO doubled yarn

2/40s

Six yarn samples were produced (grey, dyed and softened) and the yarn quality of all the yarns are compared for their yarn quality characteristics.

Table 1. Different types of yarn

The authors report the following major findings from the study:

The overall mechanical properties of EliTwist yarn were better and statistically significant in most of the cases as compared to combed compact and regular combed double yarns in both grey and dyed and softened condition. In Eli Twist yarn, the yarn unevenness and imperfections are found to be lower by 25% to 40% than their counterparts in both grey and also in dyed and softened yarns. RKM, elongation, breaking force, work of rupture were higher by about 8 %, 10 %, 17 %, 30% and 18 % respectively as compared to combed double yarns in both grey and dyed and softened yarns.. However, count CV% of Eli Twist yarns reported as are higher than the other doubled yarns due to the reduction in number of doublings which generally occurs in TFO doubling as two parallel single yarns are doubled before subjected to twisting operation. The authors explain that it might be due to the doubling of two single yarns where by, the thin places are expected to coincide with the thick places of the constituent yarn and hence the count variation is found to be lower than the Eli twist yarns.

J.SATHISHSpinning Division

FABRICATION OF COMPOSITE BIOFIBRES BASED ON CHITOSAN AND FLUORINATED GRAPHENE FOR ADSORPTION OF HEAVY METAL IONS IN WATERBo Yu, Qin Huang, Yongkun Liu & Guohua Jiang, The Journal of the Textile Institute, June 2018.

Nowadays, the presence of metal ions in industrial waste water has become a major problem. Innovative processes for treating industrial wastewater containing heavy metals often involve technologies for reduction of toxicity in order to meet technology-based treatment standards. The available methods for the removal of these ions from various industrial effluents include membrane separation, ion exchange, chemical precipitation, flocculation, evaporation and electrolysis. However, these methods are often costly or ineffective, especially in removing heavy metal ions from dilute solutions. Currently, the researchers are focusing on natural materials for the removal of metals. Hence the authors have made an attempt to prepare composite fibres (UFG-CS) based on urea modified fluorine graphene and chitosan (CS) for the adsorption of heavy metal ions in water.

As a preliminary work, the UFG-CS composite fibres were prepared using a wet spinning method, in which CaCl2 aqueous solution was

May - August 2018

No. 2.2

PAPER REVIEW

May - August 2018

used as a coagulation bath. The characterization of UFG-CS composite fibres was performed by FE-SEM, X-ray diffractometer, FT-IR Spectrophotometer, TGA thermal analyzer and the tensile analyzer. From the SEM image the authors indicate the diameter of the prepared composite fibres is around 56 µm and the cross sectional image of the fibre they confirmed it is a solid and the UFG nanosheets are distributed homogeneously in the fibres. The authors further confirmed the structure and functional groups of the UFG-CS composite fibres by FT-IR spectral data. The crystal transformations were investigated by XRD and the flexibility and mechanical parameters were evaluated by tensile analyzer. The stress of the UFG-CS composite fibres were reported to increase with increasing of UFG content in the composite fibres. The antimicrobial activity of the composite fibres was evaluated and in

vitro MTT assay was carried out by the authors to examine the cell growth of composite fibres.

The absorption efficiency of the prepared UFG-CS composite fibres with difference composition was investigated against Ni2+, Cd2+ and Ni2+ ions. A slight decrease in adsorption efficiency can be observed with increasing the amount of UFG in fibres. The adsorption of Ni2+ and Cd2+ ions on the UFG-CS composite fibres at different pH was also investigated by the authors. The work by the authors paves the way for the development of novel material to effectively adsorb the heavy metals from the aqueous solutions.

- Dr. N. SUDHAPRIYAChemistry Division

CONSULTANCIES OFFERED BY SITRA

S. no.

Nature of consultancy service

No. of services offered

Besides the above consultancy studies, SITRA also carried out 6 technical visits, attended 9 technical problems, 4 monthly inter-mill surveys, tested 1196 accessory samples and also calibrated 601 instruments.

Water consumption and time study of soft flow / Yarn dyeing machines.

Technical consultancy study in spinning mills.

Technical troubleshooting at processing mills.

Assessment of laboratories for NABL accreditation purpose.

Machinery valuation study.

Energy audit.

Preparation of reference materials positive for presence of Heavy metals.

Humidification plant study.

Internal audit of other laboratories

Noise level study.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

39

13

13

4

4

3

2 sets

2

1

1

VisitorsDr Prasad Potluri, Director of Research, Northwest Composites Centre, School of Materials, University of Manchester, UK.Mr. Roy Conway, School of materials, University of Manchester, UK.Dr B.Chandrasekaran, Director, CLRI, ChennaiDr A K Sharma, Director, Wool Research Association (WRA) Mr. P Vinoth and Ms. M Subbalaskshmi, Scientists, Defence Research and Development Organization (DRDO), Bengaluru.Mr. Asheesh Gupta, Defence Institute of Physiology and Allied Sciences, Defence Research and Development Organization (DRDO).Shri V. Gunasekaran, Joint Director of Agriculture, Govt. of TamilNadu, Erode.

STAFF NEWS

MEETINGS ATTENDED

Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, SITRA attended the following meetings:

- Second Meeting of the Steering Committee on Technotex-2018 under the Chairmanship of Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India held at, Udyog Bhavan, New Delhi on 21st May, 2018.

- Meeting convened by the Hon'ble Minister of Textiles with concerned experts/officials on issue of Defence related Technical Textiles at the Ministry of Textiles, UdyogBhavan, New Delhi on 22nd June, 2018.

- A meeting with the delegation from South Korea arranged by Texprocil, held at The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi on 26th June, 2018.

- Meeting of the Project Approval Committee (PAC) for component I & III under R & D scheme under the Chairmanship of Shri Puneet Agarwal, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles held at Udyog Bhavan, New Delhi on 27th June, 2018.

- Eighth meeting of Technical Textiles for Meditech Applications Sectional Committee, TXD36 held at Manak Bhavan, New Delhi on 4th July, 2018

- Meeting with Dr Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, to discuss/finalize the strategic action plan for 3rd session of India –Uzbek Joint Working Group on Co-operation in Textile Sector, held at the Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mumbai on 13th August, 2018.

- An Orientation meeting held under the Chairmanship of Joint Secretary (Technical Textiles) with the Nodal Officers to facilitate compliance of recommendations dated 30.7.2018 of the committee of Secretaries for giving boost to Texhnical Textiles in India, held at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi on 14th August, 2018.

- Third meeting of the committee preparing R & D plan for the Futuristic Growth of Technical Textiles in India under the Chairmanship of Dr.V.K.Saraswat, Member, Niti Aayog, held at NitiAayog, New Delhi on 28th August, 2018.

Dr. Ketankumar Vadodaria, Head, CoE-Meditech and Mr. Sureshram, Senior Scientific Officer attended the following meetings:

- Panel meeting for revision of IS 5405 “Sanitary napkin” held on 27th June 2018 at BIS, WRO, Mumbai.

- Technotex 2018 held at Mumbai during 28th and 29th June 2018.

Mr. D.Jayaraman, Head, Spinning presented lectures on “Market potential and emerging trends in MMFT trade” organised by the 'The Synthetic & Rayon Textile Export Promotion Council' (SRTEPC) at Salem on 27th July, 2018 and at Rajapalayam on 28th July, 2018.

Mr. M.Muthukumaran, Head-Textile Engineering & Instrumentation delivered a lecture on “Importance of Energy Management and Energy Audit” during Faculty Development Programme on “Energy Management” organized by Sree Saraswathi Thyagaraja College (Autonomous), Pollachi on 21.07.2018.

Mr. G.Nagarajan, Senior Scientific Officer presented a paper on “Cut – Resistant Technical Fabrics” at the 4th International Conference on Industrial Textiles – Products, Applications and Prospects (InduTech 2018) held at SG College of Technology on 17th & 18th August 2018.

Mr. M.K.Vittopa, Scientific Officer presented the following papers

- “Product development using banana / cotton fibre blends” organised by Brainstorming meeting on “Banana fibre : Research needs for commercial exploitation” 'at ICAR – NRC Banana, Trichy on 10th May 2018.

Papers presented



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E-mail:[email protected], Website: www.sitra.org.in

The South India Textile Research Association

- “Development of functional spacer fabrics for medical inlays in orthopaedic shoes” at the 4th International Conference on Industrial Textiles – Products, Applications and Prospects (InduTech 2018) held at PSG College of Technology on 17th & 18th August 2018.

Mr. G.Nagarajan, Senior Scientific Officer attended the conference on “3D Weaving and composites” at PSG Institute of Technology, Neelambur on 16.August, 2018.

Mr. Vinod Nair, M.Tech., who has served in the armed services, joined SITRA as Administrative Officer. SITRA extends a warm welcome to the newly joined staff.

Conference attended

New Appointment

MoU signed

SITRA has signed an MoU with Curitex Medical Pvt. Ltd., a medical devices based startup based in Vadodhara. The MoU paves the way for commercialization and licensing of SITRA developed products including contract-

manufacturing services by the agency.

STAFF PARTICIPATION

Overseas Visit

Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, visited the United Kingdom during 16.07.18 to 28.07.18. During his two-week stay in the country, he visited the following institutions/organisations to understand the work carried by them and explore the possibilities of collaboration:

- Hainsworth Company in U.K., with beginnings in 1783 and manufacturing high value wollen fabrics for a number of applications.

- The Leeds Beckett University's School of design which is working on sustainable technologies with regards to coloration and multiple applications in medical textiles.

- The University of Manchester which has a state-of-the-art composites laboratory and is interested in collaborating with SITRA to setup a similar facility.

- The Leeds University which is working in multiple areas of technical textiles. He also attended the Textile Institute's 91st World Conference held at Manchester, U.K. whereas many as 79 papers were presented in the ares of natural fibres, functional textiles, textile processes, colour, testing, etc.

Dr. Prakash Vasudevan visited Uzbekistan, during 16.8.18 to 19.8.18 as part of Government of India's delegation of the Uzbek-lndia Joint Working Group on co-operation in textile sector, led by the Textile Commissioner, MoT, New Delhi. During the visit, the Government signed MoUs for joint working in the areas of textiles R&D.

may - august 2018 no. 2

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