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Maxi-Lip™

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Member of Croda International Plc, © 2014 Sederma, All rights reserved.

MAXI-LIP™

SEDERMA Patents and publications: FR 2 802 413 ; WO 01/43701

THE LIPS IN 3D

Any use of this file for commercial or advertisement purposes is subject to the prior written consent of SEDERMA.

Non- Warranty: The information in this publication is given in good faith by Sederma by way of general guidance and for reference purposes only. The information should not be construed as granting a license to practice any methods or compositions of matter covered by patents. Sederma assumes no liability in relation to the information and gives no warranty regarding the suitability of the product and/or ingredients described for a particular use. The use made of the product and/or ingredients described by the recipient and any claims or representations made by the recipient in respect of such product and/or ingredients are the responsibility of the recipient. The recipient is solely responsible for ensuring that products marketed to consumers comply with all relevant laws and regulations.

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Membre de Croda International Plc., © 2014 Sederma, tous droits réservés.

SYNOPSIS Description Wax-based synthetic peptide: 1000ppm of Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys INCI Name Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Tribehenin (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and)

Palmitoyl-Tripeptide-1 Cosmetic activity demonstrated In vitro

stimulation of the synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts: +350%

stimulation of the synthesis of GAG (hyaluronic acid) by fibroblasts: +146%

In vivo

30-days study: 3D morphology, macrophotographs, dermatological assessment, self-evaluation.

Daily applications of MAXI-LIP™ results in: • better moisturizing: +50 to +60% • reduction of furrows: -10 to -30% • enhancement of the volume of the lips: +40%

100% of the volunteers reported an improvement in the texture of their lips. Properties: MAXI-LIP™ improves moisturization and reduces cheilites.

Restores the density of the dermis: enhancing the volume of the lips. Use: all types of lip-care products, salve, gloss, lipstick.

Recommended use level: 1%

Toxicology: Patch test in human (10 volunteers) HETCAM (ocular) RIPT sensitization /50 subjects Mutagenicity (Ames)

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CONTENT 1. INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................. 7

2. SUSTANTIATION TESTS .................................................................................................... 9

2.1. In vitro studies using fibroblasts ...................................................................................................... 92.1.1. Stimulation of the synthesis of collagen ................................................................................... 92.1.2. Stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) ................................................. 10

2.2. Clinical study to demonstrate the effects ...................................................................................... 112.2.1. Clinical assessment by the Dermatologist .............................................................................. 122.2.2. Self-evaluation ........................................................................................................................ 132.2.3. Increase in the volume of the lips ........................................................................................... 14

3. CONCLUSION AND COSMETIC VALUE .......................................................................... 16

4. REFERENCES ................................................................................................................... 17

5. APPENDIX .......................................................................................................................... 18

10/2014/V4

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1. INTRODUCTION

The lips carry speech, reflect mood, suggest sexiness. Like the eyes, from the dawn of time, they have been the vehicle carrying all the fantasies of make-up. Subsequently, they became a fashion point: hasn't the embellishment of the lips now become the final touch in a fashion look? The leading fashion designers have made no mistake about it - and they were the first to make the lipstick the essential accessory for elegance and sexiness. The lips are a mobile feature and the key aspect of the "look" presented by the face. More than ever, they are now featured in the media and have to keep up with the trends: a healthy and balanced skin leads to well moisturized and clearly outlined lips. Yet wind, cold and sunshine, and indeed some of the pigments used in lipsticks, can have drying effects (Kaji, 1992) and contribute to undermining and impairing the quality of the lips. It is therefore necessary to combine appearance-enhancing cosmetics with skin-care cosmetics and with corrective cosmetics. So far little has been done and the only commercially available products designed to soften the lips and prevent drying are lip salves. For this reason, we have decided to develop a cosmetic ingredient intended to provide the effective restoration of defective keratinization of the lips (desquamation). This which would take the form of a restructuring care product which produces a visible improvement in the volume and outline of the lips.

WHAT ARE THE LIPS EXACTLY? The anatomists and physiologists who have investigated the buccal mucosa have classified the lips as the external part of this mucosa: the lips do not exist as isolated structures, they have to be considered as the transition between the buccal mucosa and the skin. This is why it is very difficult to find any detailed information about the structure and anatomy of the lips. The lips are usually described as consisting of an epidermis with a very thin stratum corneum, and which therefore has no effective barrier to restrict moisture loss. The lips have no sweat glands or sebaceous glands and they are intensely vascularized, which gives them their colour. The thin epidermis makes it possible to see the underlying dermis, which is intensely vascularized, and gives the lips their colour.

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THE MOISTURE-CONTENT AND VOLUME OF THE LIPS By extrapolating from what has been established for the skin, the hydration of the lips can be assumed to be highly dependent on the quality of the extracellular matrix. A network of hydrated macromolecules, the glycosaminglycans, and hyaluronic acid (a water-retaining gel) in particular, promotes the turgidity and the visco-elasticity of the dermis. Collagen is also known to play a key role in the 3D-architecture of the connective tissue. Macquart et al. have carried out detailed investigations of the natural tripeptide Gly-His-Lys: Macquart (1988, 1993), Simeon (1999) and Wegrowski (1992). This tripeptide has the biological property of stimulating the neosynthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans, and in human biopsy specimens it has been shown to have the very promising property of producing ex vivo activation of the healing process in injured tissue (Capon, 1998). The remarkable restructuring and moisturizing properties of this tripeptide have led us to develop a new lip-care product, MAXI-LIP™, which is designed to have the cosmetic activities of moisturizing and restructuring, and which can be expected to affect the volume and outline of the lips. In order to stabilize the peptide and make it compatible with lipid structures, it has been coupled with a fatty acid, palmitic acid, to boost its lipophilicity. This vectored form, Pal-Gly-His-Lys (or Pal-GHK), was then subjected to in vitro and in vivo tests to demonstrate the expected results. The results are reported in the next section.

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2. SUSTANTIATION TESTS

2.1. In vitro studies using fibroblasts

2.1.1. Stimulation of the synthesis of collagen

Human fibroblasts were cultured in standard medium containing added 3H-proline. Radiolabeled proline in the medium was incorporated into proteins synthesized during incubation. This amino acid is particularly abundant in the collagen: at the end of the experiment, collagen was extracted by differential precipitation and centrifugation. The amount of radioactivity which had been incorporated was then measured. The cells were cultured for 24 hours in the presence of various concentrations of Pal-GHK and compared with control cells cultured with no added peptide.

Table 1 Incorporation of tritiated proline in the presence

of various concentrations of Pal-GHK

Concentration (µg/l)

Incorporation of 3H Proline (cpm)

Increase in collagen (%)

Control - 3,289 - Pal-GHK 58

290 580

2,900 5,800

5,948 14,842 5,348 4,996 3,517

+80 +351 +62 +51 +6

The results show that the cells synthesized more collagen in the presence of Pal-GHK. Collagen synthesis was stimulated in a dose-dependent manner, and reached a peak value of 351%, when a concentration of 290 µg/l was added.

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2.1.2. Stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)

In this study, human fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of Pal-GHK for 48 hours. The 3H-glycosamine was then added and the incubation continued for a further 24 hours: any neosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans was detected by the uptake of the radioactive precursor. A batch of control cells cultured without any active ingredient was used to compare the levels of synthesis obtained. The results demonstrated a definite stimulation of the synthesis of new molecules of GAG, one third of which were present in the form of hyaluronic acid. Figure 1 illustrates the increased incorporation of radioactivity by the GAGs at various concentrations of Pal-GHK. Levels of up to 146% above baseline (vs. untreated control, p<0.001) were achieved at a peptide concentration of 5 ppm.

Figure 1: Neosynthesis of GAG by incorporation of 3H-glucosamine as a function of the concentration of Pal-GHK peptide in ppm

It emerges from these two in vitro studies that Pal-GHK is an activator of collagen synthesis by fibroblasts while also stimulating the synthesis of other macromolecules by the connective tissue, in particular the glycosaminoglycans, which confer viscoelasticity. These biological properties make Pal-GHK a reagent which can restore the 3D architecture of the dermis: cohesion, elasticity and turgidity. The peptide has been formulated as a lipstick containing a concentration of 1% and its in vivo effects explored.

cpm/1.000 fibroblasts

35,000

25,000

15,000

5,000

0 Control 5ppm 3ppm 1ppm Concentration of Pal-GHK

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2.2. Clinical study to demonstrate the effects

The assessment of the moisturizing and structuring effect of a stick containing 1% MAXI-LIP™ was carried out by means of:

• Clinical examinations conducted by a Dermatologist • Surface folds • Hydration

• Self-evaluation • 3D morphometric measurements • Macrophotography

Study protocol Ten women who normally use lip salves and who presented with problem dry lips: type-1 cheilitis (dryness) and type-2 cheilitis (onset of desquamation) were included in this study after a dermatological examination. These ten subjects were between 22 and 40 years of age (mean 27±6 years) and presented with thin, small-volume lips, the second inclusion criterion in this study. On D0, after a wash-out period of one week during which nothing had been applied to the lips, the volunteers applied a colourless lipstick containing 1% MAXI-LIP™ for a period of 29 days. On D30, 12 hours after the last application, the volunteers were examined by the dermatologist and, as on D0, underwent morphometric measurement.

Measuring the 3D volumetric determination parameters The head was supported by a chin-rest and head rest (ophthalmological system) in a vertical position. Rest for 5 minutes in a calm atmosphere to allow the face to relax. Measurements were taken using 3D stereophotogrammetry (computer processing of the digital image after simultaneous shots from 2 different angles) without touching the skin. Results Complete local tolerance over 29 days. The panel subjects did not display any adverse local reactivity or sensitization. Compliance: there were no withdrawals during the study. Analysis of the data: Wilcoxon's statistical test.

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2.2.1. Clinical assessment by the Dermatologist

A score was assigned on the basis of the clinical assessment of the improvement in the quality of the lips confirmed by a Dermatologist, after a thorough examination of two parameters: surface folds and moisture content.

Surface folds of the lip

Score 1: very marked Score 2: marked Score 3: slight Score 4: very slight

At T0, the subjects presented with marked to very marked surface folds. By the end of the study, there had been a 10.5% reduction in the value for the bottom lip and of 30% for the top lip, and this led to a highly significant reduction in the score for the folds to "slight" (p<0.05).

Hydration

Score 1 = bad Score 2 = poor Score 3 = fair Score 4 = fairly good Score 5 = good

From bad to poor moisture content on D0 of the study, the moisture content of the bottom lip had improved by 53% and that of the top lip by 60%; in both cases, this was highly significant (p ≤ 0.05).

Top lip

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 "very marked" "marked" "slight" "very slight"

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2.2.2. Self-evaluation

A questionnaire was administered to the panel subjects. We present the results concerning the criteria concerning the Dermatologists' findings:

• 100% observed an improvement in the state of their lips • 60% thought that the desquamation showed a moderate (40%) • or considerable (20%) improvement • 70% said they were satisfied with the comfort of the skin • 70% experienceda real feeling of protection • 70% noticed that the lips were less rough to the touch.

Condition Comfort Protection Reduced improved roughness

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2.2.3. Increase in the volume of the lips

The increase in the volume of the lips was measured using a Toposkin 3D: this instrument is used for stereogrammometric measurements and takes simultaneous images of the same object from two different angles; data processing software is used to reconstitute the 3D image of the object and to take measurements without touching the skin.

Morphometric data

Principle of the measurement A rectangle was defined around the lips, demarcated by its upper corners (length) and the by edges of the bottom and top lips (width). The more swollen the lips, the greater the area, A, occupied by the lips within this rectangle. The ratios between the areas occupied by the lips within the rectangle were compared on T0 and T30. The data for 2 subjects (2 and 8) could not be interpreted (aberrant input of data).

Table 2 Proportion of the area occupied by the lips on T0 and after applying a lipstick

containing 1% MAXI-LIP™ for 29 days

Subject no. Proportion occupied by

the lips at T0 Proportion occupied by

the lips at T30 Increase in the volume

of the lips (%)

1 3 4 5 6 7 9

10

32 49 34 25 28 40 31 53

46 51 36 67 38 50 31 76

44 4 6

168 36 25 0

43 Mean 37 49 40.7

Standard deviation 10 15 p<0.05 The variability of the effect obtained was that expected for a panel of ten patients. The volume of the lips was increased to a significant degree (p<0.05%) in 7 out of 8 patients, with a mean increase of 40%.

Length

Breadth

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3D Toposkin images

To illustrate the results obtained, the following page shows some of the images obtained from some subjects.

• Improvement in the hydration of the lips

D0 D30

• Improvement in the volume of the lips

D0 D30

• Improvement in the outline of the lips

D0 D30

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3. CONCLUSION AND COSMETIC VALUE

Make up is a language. The lips are a central aspect of make-up: refinement and the final touch of elegance and beauty, and also the last word in sexiness. If the lips are naturally beautiful they are embellished and put on show, whereas if they are dry and small they are forgotten. It is now possible to obtain clearly outlined and well hydrated lips with perfect proportions. MAXI-LIP™ is a special cosmetic product for the lips which has been developed from a natural tripeptide, Gly-His-Lys, stabilized and rendered bioavailable by being coupled to a palmitoyl residue. This natural peptide has demonstrated its efficacy in restructuring the connective tissue by stimulating the synthesis of collagen (+350%) and of the glycosaminoglycans (+146%). A clinical trial of a colourless lip stick containing 1% MAXI-LIP™ was carried out. After daily application for 30 days, the following results were obtained:

• Clinical improvement of the lips, scored by a dermatologist: • Hydration: +50% to +60% • Reduction of furrows: +10% to +30%.

• Enhancement of the volume of the lips measured by 3D morphometry:

• by a mean of 40% (p<0.05).

• Self-Evaluation • All the volunteers reported that the state of their lips had improved. • 70% of the volunteers reported an improvement in lip comfort and protection, and

reduction in the roughness to the touch of the lips. After 30 days of use, the lips were moisturized and the desquamation reduced. The volume increased and the outline of the lips was clearer. MAXI-LIP™ is a corrective and restructuring care for the lips and acts by redensifying the connective tissue.

Recommend concentration 1%.

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4. REFERENCES

CAPON F., CAMBIE-VANDERSCHELDEN M.P., SALMON-EHR V., BIREMBAUT P., KALIS B., MAQUART F.X., “A comparative study of cryogenic lesions in organ-cultured human skin and in reconstituted human skin equivalent”., Cryobiology, 1998, 36, p. 174-183. DALEY T.D., GUPTA A.K., “Exfoliative cheilitis”, J. Oral Pathol. Med., 1995, 24, p. 177-179. KAJI T., KAWASHIMA T., YAMAMOTO C., SAKAMOTO M., “Rhodamine B inhibits collagen synthesis by human lip fibroblasts in culture”., Toxicol. Lett., 1992, 61, p. 81-87. MAQUART F.X., BELLON G., CHAQOUR B., WEGROWSKI J., PATT L.M, TRACHY R.E., MONBOISSE J.C., CHASTANG F., BIREMBAUT P., GILLERY P., BOREL J.P., “In vivo stimulation of connective tissue accumulation by the tripeptide-copper complex Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine-Cu2+ in rat experimental wounds.”, J. Clin. Invest., 1993, 92, p. 2368-2376. MAQUART F.X., PICKART L., LAURENT M., GILLERY P., MONBOISSE J.C., BOREL J.P., “Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine-Cu2+”. FEBS Letters, 1998, 238, p. 343-346. SIMEON A., MONIER F., EMONARD H., WEGROWSKI Y., BELLON G., MONBOISSE J.C., GILLERY P., HORNEBECK W., MAQUART F.X., “Fibroblast-Cytokine - Extracellular Matrix interactions in Wound Repair”., Current Topics in Pathology., 1999, 93, p. 95-101. WEGROWSKI Y., MAQUART F.X., BOREL J.P., “Stimulation of sulfated glycosaminoglycan synthesis by the tripeptide-copper complex Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine-Cu2+”., Life Science, 1992, 51, p. 1049-1056.

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5. APPENDIX

FORMULA OF THE LIPSTICK USED IN THE CLINICAL TRIAL

Raw materials CTFA/INCI Supplier %

Phase 1

Castor Oil Crodamol PTIS Syncrowax HRC Syncrowax ERLC

Novol Crodacol C90

Super Sterol Ester

Carnauba wax

Paraffin

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Tribehenin C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester

Oleoyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax

Paraffin

CRODA CRODA CRODA CRODA CRODA CRODA

5.00 qsp 100

6.00 6.00 9.00 4.00 2.00

5.00

4.00

Phase 2

MAXI-LIP™

Preservatives

Octyl Palmitate-Tribehenin-Sorbitan Isostearate-Palmitoyl-Tripeptide-1[1]

SEDERMA

1.00

qs Phase 3

Span 20

Polyolprepolymer 14

Parfum

Sorbitan Isostearate PPG-51/SMDI Copolymer

CRODA SEDERMA (EEC)

PENEDERM (other countries)

7.00 5.00

qs [1]: Previous INCI Name Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which has been revised in Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in September 2013 Operating process Weigh out all the phase-1 ingredients. Melt at 80°C. Homogenineize. Incorporate phase 2 and then phase 3 Homogeneize and pour.

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