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Textile Engineering DifinitionTextile Engineering DifinitionClassification of FibersClassification of Fibers

The Characteristic of Natural and Manmade The Characteristic of Natural and Manmade FibersFibers

Properties of Textile FibersProperties of Textile FibersYarn Numbering SystemsYarn Numbering Systems

Yarn Formation (Fiber to Yarns)Yarn Formation (Fiber to Yarns)Fabric Formation (Fabric Constractions)Fabric Formation (Fabric Constractions)

Finishing ProcessesFinishing ProcessesDyeing (Finishing with Color)Dyeing (Finishing with Color)

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References1. Anonim,1997., Profile of The Textile Industry,

Washington,DC.USA

2. Corbman,1995.,Textiles Fiber to Fabric,McGraw-Hill,Los Angeles,USA

3. Lloyd.H.Jackson,1990.,Yarn and Cloth Calculations, New York.

4. Subagyo. A.(2003). Manufaktur Benang dengan Sistem Rotor. Graha Ilmu. Jogyakarta.

5. Robert R Franck,2005.,Bast and other plant fibers,Woodhed Publishing Limited,England.

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Textile Engineering Difinition

Textile Engineering is concerned with specific knowledge of textiles in the designing, improving, and utilizing of systems of people, textile materials, information,equipments, and energy. It draws upon specialized knowledge and skill in the mathematical, physical, and social sciences, together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.

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Classification of Textile Fibers

Natural Fibers: Vegetable : Cotton, Linen, Jute, Hemp,

Sisal/Agave, Kapok, Ramie, Coir, Pina. Animal : Wool, Silk, Hair Mineral : Asbestos Manmade Fiber : Cellulosic namely; Rayon,

Acetate and Triacetate NonCellulosic Polymers:Nylon, Aramid,

Polyester, Acrylic, Spandex, Polycarbonate, Olefin, Vinyon, Modacrylic, etc

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Some physical and chemical characteristics natural fibers

Characteristics Ramie Flax Hemp

Cotton

Ultimate fiber length in mm (minimum)

Average

Maximum

5

120 – 150

620

1

13 – 14

130

5

15 – 25

55

9

20 – 30

63

Ultimate fiber diameter in microns (minimum)

Average

Maximum

13

40 – 60

126

5

17 – 20

40

10

15 – 30

50

12

14 – 16

20

Tensile strength in kg/mm

Moisture regain in %

Chemical Composition in % Cellulose

Lignin

Hemicellulose,pectin and others

95

12

72 – 97

1 – 0

27 -3

78

12

64 – 86

5 – 1

31 - 14

83

12

67 – 68

6 – 4

27 - 18

45

8

88 – 96

0

12 - 4

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PROPERTIES OF COTTON FIBERS

Property Relative Amount

Possible Determinative Fact.

Regidity(torsonial)

Resistance to bending

High

High

Regid molec.exensive crystallization

Same

Plasticity

Extensibility

Low

Low

Large intermolecular forces

Stretched molecules,high crystallinity

Resiliency

Dry tenacity

Wet tenacity

Low

Fairly high

High

High molecular interaction

Good molecular and crystallite

High degree of polymerization

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CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF COTTON FIBERS

Constituents Typical Low High

Cellulose

Protein

Pectic substances

94.0

1.3

0.9

88.0

1.1

0.7

96.0

1.9

1.2

Ash

Wax

Malic,citric and other

1.2

0.6

0.8

0.7

0.4

0.5

1.6

1.0

1.0

Total sugars/honey due

Other

0.3

0.9

0.5

-

1.0

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TYPICAL TEXTILE PROCESSING FLOW CHART

TexturizingTexturizing

SpinningSpinning

KnittingKnitting (merajut) (merajut)

SlashingSlashing

WeavingWeaving

DyeingDyeing

WarpingWarping

Manmade filament fibersManmade filament fibers

Fiber Fiber PreparationPreparation

KnittingKnitting

PreparationPreparation

Manmade staple Manmade staple fibersfibers

RawRaw (kasar) (kasar) wool, Cottonwool, Cotton

PrintingPrinting

FinishingFinishing

CuttingCutting

SewingSewing

Finish goodsFinish goods

Yarn Yarn FormatioFormatio

nn

Fabric Fabric FormatioFormatio

nn

Wet Wet ProcessinProcessin

gg

FabricatioFabricationn

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Physical Properties of Natural Fibers, namely:

Fiber length average between 20 mm – 38 mm (cotton)

Fineness(kehalusan) average between 3,5 – 4.0 micron

Tensile(elastisitas) strength between 45kg/mm

Moisture(kelembapan) regain average 8 %

Diameter average 12 – 14 micron

Physical and Chemical Properties of Natural and Synthetic Fibers

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Industrial Processes in Textile Industry

The textile industry includes the production of yarn(benang), fabric(kain tenun) and finish good.

The following for production stages namely: The textile industry includes the production of yarn,

fabric and finish good. The following four production stages namely: 1. Yarn formation => spun yarns and filament yarns 2. Fabric formation=>Woven ; Non-woven;Knitting 3. Wet processing=>Finishing ;Dyeing, Printing 4. Fabrication=> Garment or Finish Good

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Yarn Formation Processes

Manmade Manmade Natural fiber

TexturizingTexturizing

Fabric formationFabric formation

CleaningCleaning

BlendingBlending

CombingCombing

DrawingDrawing

RovingRoving

SinningSinning

Fabric formationFabric formation

CardingCarding

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Processing Functions

Blowing opening,cleaning,separiting,mixing. Carding individualized for straightening and

cleaning,remove contamination like impurities Combing the removal of short fibers and

straightened hooked fiber Drawing fiber straightened by drafting and doebling Roving drafting,twisting and winding Spinning drafting, twisting and winding

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Short Fiber Calculator

The short fiber calculator predicts the short fiber content given a bale,upper half mean length, uniformity index,micronaire,and strength/Tenacity

The regession equation is as follow:

Short fiber cont,%(by weight) = SFC(%w) = C-(13.255xUHML)-(0.573xUI)-(1.255xmic)-(0.117xStrength)

Where: UHML = fiber upper half mean length in inches UI = Fiber length uniformity index in percent mic = cotton micronaire value Strength(tenacity) = fiber strength in grams/tex and The value of C depend on growth region

are;79.007;77.802;79.012; and 77.802.

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Cotton Waste Removal Required

To estimate the amount of removal use the following formula:

Waste needed,%= (average%trash in bale)x(%trash to be removed) average%trash in waste

PERCENT RUN TIME AND THROUGHPUT RATE To determine the run time, net throughput rate as follow:

Machine run time,%= total time machine processes stock x 100% total time of test

Net throughput rate = total weight of stock processed total time of observation

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Cleaning Efficiency and waste Removed

For calculating cleaning efficiency are as follows:

Cleaning Eff.= %trash in stock fed-%trash in stock delivered x 100% % trash in stock fed Or Cleaning Eff. = % waste removed x % trash in waste % trash in stock fed

Waste removed = weight of waste removed x 100% weight of stock fed

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Percent Nep and Short Fiber Content Change

To calculation percent Nep use formula:

Nep cont.change,%= nep cont.indelivered stock–nep cont.in fed stock x 100

% nep content in fed stock

Short Fiber Change (SFC) Determining the amount of change in short fiber content:

SFC change,%=(%SFC in delivered stock)-(%SFC in fed stock) x 100% % SFC in fed stock

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Draft Calculation

There are three common ways to calculate the draft at a process.

Draft = Weight per unit length fed ( Actual draft) Weight per unit length delivered

Draft = Length unit weight delivered (Actual draft) Length per unit weight fed

Draft = Surface speed of deliverery rolls (Machine draft) Surface speed of feed rolls

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Fabric Forming

Preparation Processes

Warp Yarn =>Warping Processes, consist of single yarn to be beam forming

Weft Yarn =>Cone Yarn For Jet Loom; Rappier or Pirn Yarn with satlle

Kind of weaving processes namely:

Ordinary loom ; Jet Loom consist of water jet loom and air jet loom.

Another type of loom machine; Rappier

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Sample of Cotton Fiber

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Sifat mekanis serat alamSifat mekanis serat alam

Fiber

Properties

Tensile Strength(MPa)

Young’s Modulus

(GPa)

Elongation(%)

Massa Jenis

(gr/cm3)

Diameter(µm)

Panjang(mm)

Ramie bast 1050 61,5 3,6 - 3,8 1,5 - 1,6 40 - 80 60 - 260

Kenaf bast 930 53 1,6 1,5 200 2 - 6

Coco shell 175 4 - 6 25 1,2 100 - 400 -

Sisal leaf 835 9,4 - 22 2 - 4 1,16 - 1,5 50 - 200 1 - 5

Banana bast 540 - 3 1,3 50 - 250 -

Pineapple leaf

740 - 2,4 - - -

E- Glass 1800 69 - 73 2 - 3 2,5 5 - 25 -

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Komposisi Komposisi KKandungan andungan SSerat erat AAlamlam

Jenis Serat

Komposisi Kandungan Serat

Selulosa (%)

Lignin (%)

Pentosan (%)

Ash (%)

Silica (%)

Kenaf 45 - 57 15 - 19 22 - 23 2 - 5 -

Jute 45 - 53 21 - 26 18 - 21 0,5 - 2 -

Sisal (abaca)

47 - 62 7 - 9 21 - 24 0,6 - 1 -

Seed Flax 43 - 47 21 - 23 24 - 26 5 -

Bambu 26 - 43 21 - 31 15 - 26 1,7 - 5 0,7

2204/19/2304/19/23 NFC-JamasriNFC-Jamasri 2222

KenafHemp

SisalCoconut

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Tanaman Ramie

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Serat Ramie (Tow-Fiber)

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Serat Daun Nanas