material minimum requirements revised 08-2009_xls (1)
TRANSCRIPT
Material Minimum Requirements
valid from 01-2007revised 08-2009
page 1
Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves For all compositions
page 2 Flatknit Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans CO,CO-Mix
page 3 Flatknit Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans Wool Mixtures
page 4 Woven
Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant / water repellent CO,CO-Mix,Man Made Fibre,Man Made Fibre Mix
page 5 Woven Jackets, Trousers, Skirts WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibre
page 6 Woven
Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories Leather
page 7 Woven Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments
page 8Woven, Circularknit Lining For all compositions
page 9 Woven
Shirt, Blouses, Tops, Trousers, Dresses,Skirts CO, CO-Mix, Silk
page 10 Circularknit
Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear CO, CO-Mix
page 11 Circularknit T- Shirts,Blouses CO, CO-Mix, Regenerated fibres
page 12
Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Beachwear For all compositions
page 13
Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit All productgroups
page 14 Leather Shoes Leather
page 15
Woven, Circulraknit, Flatknit Shoes For all compositions except leather
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
Register
Index Standard11.1 ISO 38011.2 ISO 2589
2
2.1
ISO 6330, 5077, 3759
2.2 ISO 6330, 5077, 3759
2.3 ISO 3175
2.4 visual judgement
3
3.1 TOM TAILOR method
3.2 TOM TAILOR method
3.3 a ISO 12945-2
3.3 b ISO 12945-2
3.3 c ISO 12945-2
3.4 a TOM TAILOR method
3.4 b TOM TAILOR method
3.5 ISO 12947-1/2
3.6 DIN EN ISO 13936-2
3.7 a DIN EN ISO 13934-1
3.7 b EN ISO 13937-2
3.8 DIN 53835-14
3.9 Part 11-A : 2008
3.10 Part 10-B : 2008
3.11 DIN EN 13562
3.12 ISO 3376
3.13 ISO 3377- part 1
3.14 DIN 53331
3.15 ISO 5402
3.16 ISO 11644
3.17 TOM TAILOR washtest
3.18 ASTM D 1230
3.19 DIN EN ISO 17707
3.20 DIN EN ISO 17708
3.21 DIN EN 13287
3.22 Methods
3.23 DIN EN 12771
3.24 material,coated
3.25
in accordance to DIN EN ISO 13934-1
3.26 DIN EN 12785
3.27 TOM TAILOR washtest
4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.0 ISO 105 C064.1 a ISO 105 C06,C08,C09
4.2 a ISO 105 D014.2 b ISO 11643
4.3 a ISO 105 X124.3 b ISO 105 X124.3 c ISO 116404.3 d ISO 116404.3 e ISO 11640
4.4a ISO 105 E04
4.4 b ISO 105 E044.4 c ISO 116414.5 a ISO 105 E014.5 b ISO 11642
to perspiration (leather)to water
to water (leather)
rubbing, wet (leather)rubbing, perspiration (leather)
to perspiration, acid
to perspiration, alcaline
to dry cleaning (leather)
rubbing, dryrubbing, wet
rubbing, dry (leather)
colour change after washingto washing
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.
to dry cleaning
determination of flex resistance upper material (shoes)
pull out strength for buckles and straps (shoes)heel attachment (shoes)
COLOUR FASTNESS
determination of maximum force (strip method)
permanent tensile (elastic behaviour)
Turbidity with Automated NTU Meter
Fill Power with Steam Conditioning
tearing strength
fuzzing before washingfuzzing after washingabrasion resistance
seam slippage resistance
spirality after washingpilling (500 cycles)
pilling (1000 cycles)pilling (2000 cycles)
shrinkage after dry cleaning
optic after washing
MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
spirality before washing
determination of thickness
DIMENSIONAL STABILITYshrinkage after washing (total value of shrinkage in warp and weft must never be more
than +/- 5% for CK and Fk and +/- 3% for WO)
shrinkage after tumbling
Norm IndexTest method
CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICSweight tolerance g/m²
tear strength for outsoles (shoes)
water column
determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method) (leather)
determination of tear load - single edge tear (leather)
determination of stitch tear resistance (leather)
determination of flex resistance by flexometer (leather)
test of adhesion of finish (leather)
resistance of crinkle, pleats, tackings
burning behaviour of clothing
determination of flex ressitance for outsoles (shoes)
adhesion of sole (shoes)
slip resistance (shoes)
floormarking of outsoles (shoes)
4.6 ISO 105 B024.7 § 64 LFGB B 82.10-14.8 ISO 105 E024.9 ISO 105 E03 (50mg/l)4.10 ISO 157004.11 visual judgement
4.12 DIN EN ISO 105-X184.13 DIN EN ISO 116404.14 ISO 105 C0655.1
5.2
max. total colourdifference light box D65 depends on the shade
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
to chlorine waterto water spotting (leather)optic after washing (change in shade must be not be less than grade 4, surface must not
be different to unwashed sample)phenolic yellowing
to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110)to seawater
COLOUR COMMUNICATION
cf to shoe polish/care product
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
page 1 Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5%
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY CK FK WO
2.1 +/-5 % +/-5 % +/-3 %
2.3 +/-4 % +/-4 % +/-3 %
2.4
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.3 a 2-3 3-4 3-4
3.3 b 2-3 3-4 3-4
3.3 c 2-3 3-4 3-4
carded yarn, felpa brushed outside, mohair, angora, Kashmir, peached outside after 2000 rubs 1-2 1-2 1-2
wool-mix, merino, viscose after 2000 rubs 2-3 2-3 2-3
silk after 2000 rubs 3 3 33.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles
wool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed,tinted
4.1
peached fabrics
pigment dyed/printed,tinted
4.2 a
4.3 a
4.3 b
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
Pilling (500 cycles)
3-4
4-5
Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit = for all
compositions
Pilling (2000 cycles)
Pilling (1000 cycles)
minumum requirement
shrinkage after washing
shrinkage after dry cleaning
has to be in shape after washingoptic after washing
3
max. 10 gr/m²weight tolerance g/m²
3
4
to dry cleaning
to washing
to rubbing, dry
4
4
to rubbing, wet
to perspiration, alcaline
to water
to perspiration, acid
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted
3-4
3-4
2
4
3
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
3
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted
peached fabrics
4.6
4.7
4.114.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
to artificial salivapigment dyed/printed,tinted
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
no faults visible
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be In case different materials of the same shade are used in
garment to garment:DE 0,5
4-5
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
3-4
3
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
mini kids, up to size 110
optic after washing
3-4
pigment dyed/printed,tinted
page 2 Flatknit = CO, CO-Mix
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 +/- 5%2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles
wool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed,tinted4.1 to washing
pigment dyed/printed4.2 a to dry cleaning
4.3 a to rubbing, dry
pigment dyed/printed4.3 b to rubbing, wet
pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a to water
4.6
pigment dyed/printed4.7 to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5
Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans
minumum requirement
weight tolerance g/m² max. 10 g/m²
characteristic features
Flatknitshrinkage after washing +/-5 % shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-4 %
spirality before washing 2%spirality after washing 3 %; maximum 3,0 cmpilling (500 cycles) 3-4pilling (1000 cycles) 3-4
4
pilling (2000 cycles) 3-4
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
to perspiration, acid
to perspiration, alcaline
4
32
3-4
3-4
pigment dyed/printed 3
3
pigment dyed/printed 3
pigment dyed/printed
no faults visible
4-5
4
3-4
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
4
4-5
43
3
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
COLOUR COMMUNICATION
5.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching
lamps (D65, TL 84, F)In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
page 3 Flatknit = Wool Mixture
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5%
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.1
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
pigment dyed/printed
4.2 a
4.3 a
pigment dyed/printed
4.3 b
pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a
4.4 b
pigment dyed/printed
4.5 a
pigment dyed/printed
4.6
spirality before washing 2%
shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-4 %
Flatknit
shrinkage after washing +/-5 %
Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans
max. 10 g/m²
characteristic features minumum requirement
weight tolerance g/m²
spirality after washing 3 %; maximum 3,0 cm
pilling (500 cycles) 2-3
1-2
4
pilling (1000 cycles) 2-3
2-3pilling (2000 cycles)
4
to perspiration, alcaline
2
open structured yarn
Kashmir, Mohair, Angora
to rubbing, wet
4
3
1-2
4
to water
3-4
3-4
3
4
3
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
to perspiration, acid
pigment dyed/printed 3
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
to washing
to dry cleaning
4-5
3
to rubbing, dry
3
4-5
pigment dyed/printed4.7
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65,
TL 84, F)
to artificial salivamini kids, up to size 110
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
no faults visible
3-4
garment to garment:DE 0,5
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
page 4
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5%
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.1
2.2
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
3.5
3.6 < 220g/m²
> 220g/m²3.7 a fitted
regular
3.7 b < 220 g/m²
> 220 g/m²
3.9
3.10
3.11
3.17 resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
peached fabric
pigment dyed/printed
4.2 a
4.3 a
4.3 b
corduroy,microfibre
corduroy,microfibre
peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed
to rubbing, wet
2-3
4-5
3
3
3-4
4
12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
1%
+/-3 %
10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4%
2 %; maximum 1,5 cm
3-4
3-4
Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant/water repellent
Woven = CO,CO-Mix,Man Made
Fibre,Man Made Fibre
max. 10 gr/m²
Woven
weight tolerance g/m²
spirality before washing
minumum requirement
+/-3 %
pilling (2000 cycles) 3-4
pilling (500 cycles)
+/-3 %
shrinkage after tumbling
shrinkage after washing
water column
to rubbing, dry
to dry cleaning
abrasion resistance
spirality after washing
shrinkage after dry cleaning
pilling (1000 cycles)
20 daN
FOR JACKETS WITH DOWNFILLER
425-540 mmfilling power (30g)
1,5 daN
to washing
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
1500 mm
4
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
seam slippage resistance 6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
22 daN
tearing strength 0,8 daN
WATER RESISTANT/ WATER REPELLENT JACKETS
>300 (NTU <11.0)turbidity test (10g)
determination of maximum force (strip method)
4
3
3-4
4
4.4 a
peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed
4.4 b
peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed4.5 a
peached fabrics
4.6
4.7
4.11 optic after washing
4.12 phenolic yellowing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION
5.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed
3-4
4-5
2
3-4
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
to perspiration, acid
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84,
F)
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
to perspiration, alcaline
to water
pigment dyed/printed
pigment dyed/printed
to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110)
3
3
3
3-4
4
4
4-5
no faults visible
3-4
page 5 Woven = WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibres
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 weight tolerance g/m² +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.1
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
after 2000 rubs
Merino after 2000 rubs
Silk after 2000 rubs
3.6 < 220g/m²
> 220g/m²3.7 a regular
fitted
3.7 b < 220 g/m²
> 220 g/m²
3.8 length
width
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-programm
35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
4.2 a
4.3 a rubbing, dry
peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed
microfibre
shrinkage after dry cleaning +/-3 %
spirality before washing
Jackets, Trousers, Skirts
minumum requirement
Woven
shrinkage after washing +/-3 %
1%
spirality after washing 2 %; maximum 1,5 cm
pilling (500 cycles) 3-4
pilling (1000 cycles) 3-4
pilling (2000 cycles) 3-4
Mohair, Angora,Kashmir 1-2
seam slippage resistance
20 daN
2-3
3
6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
determination of maximum force (strip method) 22 daN
to dry cleaning
permanent tensile max. 2%
max. 5%
4
4
3
3-4
peached fabrics 3-4
pigment dyed/printed 3
tearing strength 0,8 daN
1,5 daN
4-5
4
to washing 4
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
4.3 b
peached fabric,pigment dyed/printedmicrofibre
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
4.6 to light
4.7
4.114.14
55.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
**requirements for lining see page 6
3
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL
84, F)
COLOUR COMMUNICATION
garment to garment:DE 0,5
22-3
to perspiration, acid
rubbing, wet
to water 4
peached fabrics 3-4pigment dyed/printed 3
optic after washing no faults visible
4-5pigment dyed/printed 3-4
to artificial saliva has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fastmini kids, up to size 110
to perspiration, alcaline 3-4
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed 3
3-4peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed 3
page 6 Leather
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.2 determination of thickness (mm)
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.12
3.13
3.14
3.15
3.16
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.1 (depends on care instruction)4.2 b
4.3
4.3 c
Napaleather finishing rubbing dry = 50 cycles
4.3 d
4.3 e
4.3 c
Napa, Aniline, Velour, Nubuk
4.3 d
4.3 e
4.3 c lamb velour
4.3 d
4.3 e
4.4 c
4.5 b
4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
4.7
4.10
55.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
Napa leather finishing
napa, aniline, velour, nubuk
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
COLOUR COMMUNICATION
garment e.g. chest to sleeve: DE 0,8
to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110
4
3
test for adhesion of finish
3rubbing dry = 20 cycles
2,5 N/ 10mm
optic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface
3-4
30 N/mm
> 50.000
3-4
determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method)
determination of tear load - single edge tear
determination of stitch tear resistance
determination of flex resistance by flexometer
minumum requirement
regular: 20 daNfitted: 25 daN
12 N/mm
has to meet the requirement +/-20%
to water
3
characteristic features
rubbing perspiration = 20 cycles
rubbing wet = 10 cycles
rubbing wet = 20 cycles
3
Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories
rubbing wet = 10 cycles
rubbing perspiration = 10 cycles
to washingto dry cleaning
3
3
3
to rubbing
rubbing dry = 20 cycles
rubbing perspiration = 10 cycles
33
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
3to perspiration (for garment without lining)
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched
under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
to water spotting 4-5 Must dry without staining with
waterdrops after wetting
Has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
3-43-4
page 7 Woven = Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments
characteristic features1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS1.1 +/- 5%2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.1
3.2
3.5
3.7 a fittedregular
3.7 b < 220 g/m²> 220 g/m²
3.5 trousers,shirts, dressestrousers
3.8 lengthwidth
3.17 resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed,tinted4.1
4.3 a
4.3 b
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
4.6
acid wash
peached fabrics
enzyme washstone washbleached treatment
3
4
10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4%10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 8%
max. 2%max. 5%
3-4
3-4
34-5
3-4
3-43-4
permanent tensile
rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed
FOR CORDUROY / VELVET GARMENTS
rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed
3-4
3
23-4
to water
3
enzyme stone washed
1,5 daN
abrasion resistance
22 daN20 daN
Woven shrinkage after washing +/-3 %
determination of maximum force (strip method)
Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops
minumum requirement
weight tolerance g/m² max. 10 gr/m²
rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed
0,8 daNtearing strength
4-5444
to perspiration, acid
rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed
abrasion resistance 20.000 TourenFOR JEANS WITH HEAVY TREATMENTS
spirality before washing 2%spirality after washing
3 %; maximum 1,5 cmmaximum 3,0 cm
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
to washing
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
to rubbing, dry
to perspiration, alcaline
to rubbing, wet
sandblasted
pigment dyed/printedtinted
4.7
mini kids, up to size 1104.11 optic after washing4.14
55.1
5.2 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL
84, F)*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
to artificial saliva
3-43-4
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
no faults visible
3-4
COLOUR COMMUNICATION
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
page 8 Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Woven Circularknit
2.1 +/-3 % +/-5 %
2.3 +/-3 % +/-4 %
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1 1% 2%
3.2
2 %maximum 1,5 cm
3 %maximum 3,0 cm
3.3 a 3-4 2-3
3.3 b 3-4 2-3
3.3 c 3-4 2-3
3.6 < 220 g/m²
> 220g/m²
3.7
fittedregular
3.7 b < 220 g/m²> 220 g/m²
3.8 lengthwidth
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
4.2 a
4.3 a
pigment dyed/printed4.3 b
pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a
pigment dyed/printed
Lining
rubbing, dry
to perspiration, acid
determination of maximum force (strip method)
pilling (500 cycles)
pilling (1000 cycles)
spirality before washing
permanent tensile
COLOUR FASTNESS
weight tolerance g/m²
pilling (2000 cycles)
6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
spirality after washing
shrinkage after washing
shrinkage after dry cleaning
seam slippage resistance
minumum requirement
4
4
22 daN
12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
18 daN
max. 5%max. 2%
rubbing, wet
to dry cleaning
4
3
3-4
4-5
4
pigment dyed/printed 3-4
3
2
tearing strength 0,8 daN1,5 daN
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
3
to washing
4.4 bpigment dyed/printed
4.5 a
pigment dyed/printed
4.6 to light
4.7
mini kids, up to size 110
4.11 optic after washing no faults visible4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
to perspiration, alcaline
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
4
to artificial saliva
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65,
TL 84, F)
34-5
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
3to water
3-4
page 9 Woven = CO, CO-Mix, Silk, Linen
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.1
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
silk after 2000 rubs
3.6 < 220g/m²
> 220 g/m²
3.7 a regular
fitted
3.7 b < 220 g/m²
> 220 g/m²
3.8 length
width
3.8 length
width
3.17 resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycleswool cold handwash-program
35 min 600 cycles
4
4.0 colour change after washingpigment dyed/printed
4.1
peached fabrics
4.2 a
4.3 a
silk
4.3 b
silk
+/-3 %shrinkage after dry cleaning
Woven
shrinkage after washing +/-3 %
Shirt,Blouses,Tops, Trousers,Dresses,Sk
irts
minumum requirement
weight tolerance g/m²
spirality before washing 1%
spirality after washing2 %
maximum 1,5 cm
pilling (500 cycles) 3-4
pilling (1000 cycles) 3-4
6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
pilling (2000 cycles) 3-4
3
seam slippage resistance
4-5
4
22 daN
FOR LINEN GARMENTSmax. 2%
determination of maximum force (strip method)
18 daN
permanent tensile max. 2%
max. 5%
max. 10%
COLOUR FASTNESS
permanent tensile
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
to dry cleaning 4
batik/dip dyed, silk,pigment dyed/printed
to washing 4
3
4
3-4
rubbing, wet 3
3peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
rubbing, dry
2-3
2peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
tearing strength 0,8 daN
1,5 daN
3-4
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
peached fabrics
4.6
pigment dyed/printed4.7
4.12 phenolic yellowing
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
valid from 01-2007-revised 08-2009
to perspiration, alcaline 3-4
3
to perspiration, acid 3-4
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
to artificial saliva has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fastmini kids, up to size 110
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
4-5no faults visible
garment to garment:DE 0,5
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed
peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed
3to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) 4-5
3-4
pigment dyed/printed,batik/dip dyed,silk
to water
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
4
3-4
3
page 10 Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.1
3
3.1
3.2
3.3 a
3.3 b
3.3 c
3.4 a
3.4 b
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles
wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles
4
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
peached fabrics
batik&dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed
4.3 a
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
4.3 b
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
4.4 b
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
4.5 a
peached fabricsbatik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed
4.6
4.7
2-3
Circularknit
4-5
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
3-4
3-4
spirality after washing
Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear
minumum requirementcharacteristic features
weight tolerance g/m²
shrinkage after washing
fuzzing before washing
+/-5 %
COLOUR FASTNESS
MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
2%
3 % max. 3,0 cm
spirality before washing
pilling (1000 cycles)
pilling (500 cycles) 2-3
pilling (2000 cycles)
FOR FELPA BRUSHED
2
1
2-3
4
3-4
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
fuzzing after washing
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
rubbing, wet
to perspiration, acid
to perspiration, alcaline
to washing
mini kids, up to size 110
rubbing, dry
3
3
to artificial saliva
to water
pigment dyed/printed, heavy gmt washed
3
4-5
4
3
2
3
3
4
3-4
4
3-4
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5 valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
garment to garment:DE 0,5
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under
different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
no faults visible
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
page 11 Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix, regenerated
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY2.1
2.3
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.1 up to 120 g/m²
> 120g/m²
3.2 up to 120 g/m²
> 120g/m²
3.3 a up to 120 g/m²
> 120g/m²
3.3 b up to 120 g/m²
>120g/m²
3.3 c up to 120 g/m²
> 120g/m²3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles30°C 60 min 1200 cycles30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycleswool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles
wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles44.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
4.3 a
4.3 b
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
4.6
4.7
3-44-53
3
4
3
T- Shirts, Blouses
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
rubbing, dry
rubbing, wet
COLOUR FASTNESS
peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
pilling (1000 cycles)
to washing
batik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
2-3
peached fabrics
4
3-4
2-3
2
2-3
2
pilling (2000 cycles)
5%, max. 4cm
2
spirality before washing
pilling (500 cycles)
spirality after washing2%
3%
3%, max. 3cm
minumum requirement
weight tolerance g/m²
+/-4 %
Circularknit +/-5 %
characteristic features
shrinkage after washingshrinkage after dry cleaning
to artificial salivamini kids, up to size 110
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
4-5
4
3
4
peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed
peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
3
to water
peached fabricsbatik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed
3-4
3-4
3-4
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
3
2
to perspiration, acid
to perspiration, alcaline
pigment dyed/printed,heavy gmt washed
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5 valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
no faults visible
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour
matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
page 12 Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions
characteristic features
1 CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 +/- 5% max. 10 gr/m²
2 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Woven Circularknit
2.1 +/-3 % +/-5 %
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.1 1% 2%
3.2 2 % maximum 1,5 cm3 % maximum
3,0 cm
3.3 a 3-4 2-33.3 b 3-4 2-33.3 c 3-4 2-3
3.6 < 220g/m²> 220g/m²
3.7 regularfitted
3.27
40°C 60 min 1200 cycles
40°C gentle 45 min 800 cycles
40°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
30°C 60 min 1200 cycles
30°C gentle 40 min 800 cycles
30°C extra gentle 40 min 600 cycles
wool 30°C 35 min 600 cycles
wool cold handwash-program 35 min 600 cycles
4
4.0 colour change after washing
pigment dyed/printed
4.1
pigment dyed/printed
4.3 a
pigment dyed/printed
4.3 b
peached fabrics
pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a
4.4 b
4.5 a
peached fabrics
pigment dyed/printed4.6
4.7
4.8
2
3
3
4
2
peached fabrics
rubbing, dry
3-4
3
18 daN22 daN
4
to artificial salivamini kids, up to size 110
4to seawater
has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast
4
to perspiration, acid 3-4
3
3-4
minumum requirement
pilling (1000 cycles)
6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
spirality after washingpilling (500 cycles)
Beachwear
spirality before washing
weight tolerance g/m²
shrinkage after washing
4
pilling (2000 cycles)
seam slippage resistance
COLOUR FASTNESS
to washing
determination of maximum force (strip method)
12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening
4-5
appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)
after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory
rubbing, wet
5
to perspiration, alcaline
to water
to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
3-4
4.9
4.11 optic after washing4.14
5 COLOUR COMMUNICATION5.1
5.2
*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5 valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
no faults visible
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
garment to garment:DE 0,5
4to chlorine water
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL
84, F)
colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label
4
page 13 Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit
characteristic features
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.18
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009
at 1 second of flame contact time, the flame spread over 127mm may not be shorter than 4 seconds.
all productgroups
All fabrics which do NOT meet these two (point a+b) caracteristics has to be tested by ASTM D 1230:a) fabrics with a smooth (not roughened) surface/face side with a mass (weight per m²) of more than 88 grams, regardless of the type of fibres it is made of.b) All fabrics (both smooth and roughened face side and regardless of the weight per m²) if entirely made of one of the following fibres or combination of these fibres: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester and wool.
burning behaviour of clothing
minumum requirement
page 14 Leather
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES3.12
3.13
3.14
3.15
upper material:
3.163.22
150.000 cycles up to micro cracks
20.000 cycles up to micro cracks
3.25
3.26 heel attachment3.27
4 COLOUR FASTNESS
4.3
4.3 f upper leather rubbing dry = 100 cycles4.3 g rubbing wet = 50 cycles4.3 f leather lining rubbing dry = 100 cycles4.3 g rubbing wet = 50 cycles4.4 c
4.5 b
4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)4.10
4.13
55.1
5.2
Shoes
determination of tensile strength and percentage split velour: 150 N light leather: 80N
determination of tear load - single edge tear upper material: 25N/mm
lining: 15N/mmdetermination of stitch tear resistance min. 50 N
determination of flex resistance by flexometer dry 50.000 cycleswet 10.000 cycles
test for adhesion of finish 2,5 N/ 10mmfloor marking of outsole 4
3.24 determination of flex resistance upper material coated leather:
patent leather:
pull out strength for buckles and straps 150 N
>500N
floor marking of outsole 4
3
to rubbingoptic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface
4
32-3
to perspiration leather lining pH 8 = 20 3-4to water 3-4
3-4to water spotting
4-5 Must dry without staining with waterdrops after
wetting to shoe polish/care product Only for smooth leather. No damage of the surface
COLOUR COMMUNICATIONmax. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.
No visible shade variation accepted within pairs (shoe to shoe)
4rubbing= 10 cycles
valid from 01-2009 - revised 08-2009
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
page 15 All other components
3 MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
3.5 dry
marginal change after 51.200 cycles, no formation of holes
wet
marginal change after 12.800 cycles, no formation of holes
3.19
30.000 cycles
3.203.21
3.223.23
150.000 cycles up to micro cracks
125.000 cycles up to micro cracks
3.25
3.26 heel attachment4 COLOUR FASTNESS4.3
4.3 a rubbing dry =100 cycles 4.3 b
4.4 c
4.5 b
4.6 to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)
55.1
5.2
No visible shade variation accepted within pairs (shoe to shoe)
Shoes
characteristic features minumum requirement
abrasion resistance
for heel lining:
for heel lining:
determination of flex resistance for outsoles< 10 mm
upper sole adhesion shoes: cap > 300N bale > 200 N pump: cap >200 N bale > 100 N
tear strength for outsole at bootleg >3,0 N/mm
pull out strength for buckles and straps > 150N
slip resistanceacceptance angle
dry: >/= 15°floor marking of outsole 4
3.24 determination of flex resistance upper material synthetic material, artifical leather:
rubber boot
to water
> 500N
3-4
textile lining 4rubbing wet = 50 cycles 2-3
valid from 01-2009 - revised 08-2009
In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.
To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching
lamps (D65, TL 84, F)
to rubbing
3-4
COLOUR COMMUNICATIONmax. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box “Verivide” D65 and TL 84.No shade variation accepted within one garment.
to perspiration 3-4