marks and labels on containers of beer.doc

Marks and Labels on Containers of Beer (5130/4)

Marks and Labels on Containers of Beer (5130/4)

Sec. 25.141 Barrels and kegs.

(a) General requirements. The brewer's name or trade name and the place of production (city and, if necessary for identification, State) shall be permanently marked on each barrel or keg. If the place of production is clearly shown on the bung or on the tap cover, or on a label securely affixed to each barrel or keg, the place of production need not be permanently marked on each barrel or keg. No statement as to payment of internal revenue taxes may be shown.

(b) Breweries of same ownership. (1) If two or more breweries are owned or operated by the same person, firm, or corporation (as defined in Sec. 25.181), the place of production:

(i) May be shown as the only location on the bung, or on the tap cover, or on a separate label attached to the keg;

(ii) May be included in a listing of the locations of breweries qualified under this part if the place of production is not given less emphasis than any of the other locations; or

(iii) Need not be shown if the brewer's principal place of business is shown in lieu of any other location. The brewer's principal place of business will be the location of a brewery operated by the brewer and qualified under this part.

(2) If the location of two or more breweries is shown on the keg, bung, tap cover, or on a separate label attached to the keg (paragraph (b)(1)(ii)), or if the brewer's principal place of business is shown in lieu of the actual place of production (paragraph (b)(1)(iii)), the brewer shall indicate the actual place of production by printing, coding or other markings on the keg, bung, tap cover, or on a separate label attached to the keg. The coding system employed will permit an appropriate TTB officer to determine the place of production (including street address if two or more breweries are located in the same city) of the beer. The brewer must notify the appropriate TTB officer prior to employing a coding system.

(c) Label approval required. Labels or tap covers used by brewers shall be covered by certificates of label approval, Form 5100.31, when required by Part 7 of this chapter.

(Approved by the Office of Management and Budget under control number 1513-0085)

(Sec. 201, Pub. L. 85-859, 72 Stat. 1389, as amended (26 U.S.C. 5412))

[T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended by T.D. ATF-225, 51 FR 8492, Mar. 12, 1986; T.D. ATF-437, 66 FR 5479, Jan. 19, 2001]Sec. 25.142 Bottles.

(a) Label requirements. Each bottle of beer shall show by label or otherwise the name or trade name of the brewer, the net contents of the bottle, the nature of the product such as beer, ale, porter, stout, etc., and the place of production (city and, when necessary for identification, State). No statement as to payment of internal revenue taxes may be shown.

(b) Breweries of same ownership. (1) If two or more breweries are owned or operated by the same person, firm, or corporation (as defined in Sec. 25.181), the place of production:

(i) May be shown as the only location on the label;

(ii) May be included in a listing of the locations of breweries qualified under this part if the place of production is not given less emphasis than any of the other locations; or

(iii) Need not be shown if the brewer's principal place of business is shown in lieu of any other location. The brewer's principal place of business will be the location of a brewery operated by the brewer and qualified under this part.

(2) If the location of two or more breweries is shown on the label (paragraph (b)(1)(ii)), or if the brewer's principal place of business is shown on the label in lieu of the actual place of production (paragraph (b)(1)(iii)), the brewer shall indicate the actual place of production by printing, coding or other markings on the label, bottle, crown or lid. The coding system employed will permit an appropriate TTB officer to determine the place of production (including street address if two or more breweries are located in the same city) of the beer. The brewer must notify the appropriate TTB officer prior to employing a coding system.

(c) Distinctive names. If the brewer's name, trade name or brand name includes the name of a city which is not the place where the beer was produced, the appropriate TTB officer may require the brewer to state the actual place of production on the label.

(d) Tolerances. The statement of net contents shall indicate exactly the volume of beer within the bottle except for variations in measuring as may occur in filling conducted in compliance with good commercial practice. The barrel equivalent of bottles filled during a consecutive three month period, calculated on the basis of the brewer's fill test records, may not vary more than 0.5 percent from the barrel equivalent of bottles filled during the same period, calculated on the basis of the

stated net contents of the bottles. The brewer is liable for the tax on the entire amount of beer removed, without benefit of tolerance, when the fill of bottles and cans exceeds the tolerance for the three month period, or when filling is not conducted in compliance with good commercial practice.

(e) Label approval required. Labels used by brewers shall be covered by certificates of label approval, Form 5100.31, when required by Part 7 of this chapter.

(f) Short-fill bottles. A brewer may dispose of taxpaid short-fill bottles of beer to employees for their use but not for resale. These bottles need not be labeled, but if labeled they need not show an accurate statement of net contents.



[T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended by T.D. ATF-225, 51 FR 8492, Mar. 12, 1986; T.D. ATF-437, 66 FR 5479, Jan. 19, 2001]

Sec. 25.143 Cases.

(a) Brewer's name. The brewer's name or trade name will be shown on each

case or other shipping container of bottled beer. A brewer may use unmarked cases to hold:

(1) Cartons of beer, if the visible portion of the cartons shows the required name; or

(2) Bottles or cans with plastic carriers, if the visible portion of the bottles or cans shows the required name.

(b) Other information. The brewer may show on a case or shipping container the place of production (city and, when necessary for identification, State), and the addresses of other breweries owned by the same person, firm, or corporation (as defined in Sec. 25.181). If only one address is shown, it will be that of the producing brewery, or of the brewer's principal place of business.



[T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended by T.D. ATF-225, 51

FR 8492, Mar. 12, 1986]

Sec. 25.192 Removal of sour or damaged beer.

(a) Containers. The brewer shall remove sour or damaged beer (1) in casks or other packages, containing not less than one barrel each and unlike those ordinarily used for packaging beer, or (2) in tanks, tank cars, tank trucks, tank ships, barges, or deep tanks of a vessel. The brewer shall mark the nature of the contents on each container.

(b) Beer meter. The brewer shall remove sour or damaged beer without passing it through the meter (if any) or racking machine.

(c) Records and reports. The brewer shall record the removal of sour or damaged beer in daily records under Sec. 25.292 and on the Brewer's Report of Operations, Form 5130.9.


[T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended by T.D. ATF-345, 58 FR 40357, July 28, 1993]

Removals for Analysis, Research, Development or Testing

Sec. 25.196 Removals for research, development or testing.

(a) A brewer may remove beer, without payment of tax, for use in research, development, or testing (other than consumer testing or other market analysis) of processes, systems, materials, or equipment relating to beer or brewery operations. Beer may be removed for research, development or testing in packages or in bulk containers.

(b) The brewer shall mark each barrel, keg, case, or shipping container with the name and address of the brewer and of the consignee, the identity of the product, and the quantity of the product. If necessary to protect the revenue, the appropriate TTB officer may require a brewer to mark each container with the words ``Not for Consumption or Sale.'' If beer is removed in a bulk conveyance, the brewer shall place the marks on the route board of the conveyance.

(c) The brewer shall record beer removed for research, development, or testing in daily records under Sec. 25.292 and on the Brewer's Report of Operations, Form 5130.9.


[T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended by T.D. ATF-345, 58 FR 40357, July 28, 1993]

Removal of Beer to a Contiguous Distilled Spirits Plant

Sec. 25.231 Finished beer.

(a) A brewer may obtain beer in barrels and kegs, finished and ready for sale from another brewer. The purchasing brewer may furnish the producing brewer barrels and kegs marked with the purchasing brewer's name and location. The producing brewer shall pay the tax as provided in subpart K of this part.

(b) A brewer may not purchase taxpaid or tax determined beer from another brewer in bottles or cans which bear the name and address of the purchasing brewer.


Sec. 25.242 Markings.

(a) Designation. When bottled or packaged, cereal beverage may be designated ``Cereal Beverage,'' ``Malt Beverage,'' ``Near Beer,'' or other distinctive name. If designated ``Near Beer,'' those words will be printed identically in the same size or style of type, in the same color of ink, and on the same background.

(b) Barrels and kegs. A brewer may remove cereal beverage in barrels and kegs if the sides are durably painted at each end with a white stripe not less than 4 inches in width and the heads are painted in a solid color, with conspicuous lettering in a contrasting color reading ``Nontaxable under section 5051 I.R.C.'' The brewer shall also legibly mark the brewer's name or trade name and the address on the container.

(c) Bottles. Bottle labels shall show the name or trade name and address of the brewer, the distinctive name of the beverage, if any, and the legend ``Nontaxable under section 5051 I.R.C.'' Other information which is not inconsistent with the requirements of this section may be shown on bottle lablels.

(d) Cases. The brewer shall mark cases or shipping containers to show the nature of the product and the name or trade name and address of the brewer.


Preparation of Surfaces for Epoxy Adhesive Bonding

A clean, dry surface is a necessary prerequisite for adhesive bonding; and adhesives will either stick to the surface to which a bond is desired or to a film of extraneous material directly on that surface. Rarely can a structural adhesive penetrate through surface contaminants to provide an optimum bond on an unclean surface.

Porous materials are simple to bond to, providing they are dry. The surface should be sanded till clean and free from dust. Non-porous surfaces, as found on metal and plastic materials, should be degreased, dried, and roughened by sanding, sandblasting or chemical etching, the etching being required for certain surfaces.

In order to avoid contamination of these surfaces proper care must be taken prior to bonding. Handlers should wear clean cotton gloves to prevent body oils from contaminating the clean surfaces. Contamination can be caused by a fingerprint, not perfectly clean clothing, or through the use of substandard degreasing or chemical solutions.

For best results, surfaces can be prepared by three pretreatment procedures, which are listed by increasing effectiveness.1. Degrease only.2. Degrease, abrade, and degrease again.3. Degrease and chemically pretreat.

Degrease, Abrade, and Chemical Pretreatment:An optimum bonding surface is perfectly clean, free of oil and grease. Degreasing should be performed even when the bonding surface appears clean.

1. Suspend piece(s) in trichloroethylene or wipe bonding surfaces with clean cloth saturated with trichloroethylene. Allow piece(s) to thoroughly dry.2. Abrade surface to allow for greater adhesion. Implements for abrading; sandblaster, wire brush, emery cloth, and or glass paper. Metal surfaces (Use grade 80-150 abrasives for steel and materials resistant to scoring. Use grade 300-600 abrasives for light alloys andless resistant materials). Painted surfaces should be stripped prior to pretreatment for better adhesion.3. For maximum strength a chemical or electrolytic pretreatment is required.

Note: Bonding of surfaces should be done as soon as possible upon completion of any pretreatment procedure.

Follow the procedures listed below, wherever practical:

Acrylic Glass (Perspex, Resartglas).1. Degrease (detergent solution).2. Abrade (emery cloth).3. Remove dust with dry-air (or non-clouding solvent).

Aluminum and Aluminum Alloys1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Dip in the following solution for ten minutes (for certain alloys, such as No. 360 only one to three minutes is required):3 parts sodium dichromate10 parts 96% sulfuric acid20 parts water(Be careful to dissolve sodium dichromate in the water, then add the sulfuric acid slowly).3. Rinse in ambient tap water.4. Rinse in hot (150-170F.) distilled water.5. Air dry.

Cadmium1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Abrade with emery cloth or sandblast.3. Degrease.

Cast Iron1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Abrade surface (sandblast or emery cloth).3. Degrease.

Concrete1. Remove 3mm of surface to be bonded by mechanical scarification or 1.5mm sandblast.2. Remove dust particles (preferably by vacuum cleaner).

Copper, Brass and other Copper Alloy1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Dip in a solution consisting of 6 parts ferric chloride, 30 parts concentrated nitric acid and 200 parts water. (Dissolve the ferric chloride in the water, add the nitric acid slowly). OR Dip in a 25% aqueous solution of ammonium persulfate for 1-2 minutes.3. Rinse with distilled water and dry.

Epoxy Resin Mouldings and Castings1. Remove release agent with solvent.2. Abrade surface (emery cloth).3. Degrease.

Ferrous Alloys other than Stainless1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Sandblast, sand (100 grit) or etch in 15% aqueous hydrochloric acid (equal parts concentrated muriatic acid and water) for 10 minutes. Etched surfaces should be rinsed immediately and dried with hot air. Freshly sandblasted or etched steel begins to rust immediately; therefore, adhesive should be applied as soon as the surface has been prepared.

Foam Plastics (polystyrene and polyurethane)1. Sand lightly to remove any release agent or residue.2. Clean surface (do not use solvents).

Graphite and carbon1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Abrade with fine emery cloth.3. Degrease.

Leather1. Degrease.2. Rough with glass paper.3. Degrease.

Magnesium and Magnesium Alloys1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Abrade with emery cloth.3. Degrease.

Plaster1. Allow surface to dry.2. Sand surface and remove dust.

Polar Thermoplastics (Nylon, ABS, Polycarbonate, Acrylate).1. Degrease with acetone, methyl ethyl ketone or trichloroethylene.2. Mechanically abrade.3. Degrease.

Polyester Resins1. Degrease2. Abrade with emery cloth or steel wool.3. Degrease with acetone or methyl ethyl ketone.

Precious Metals1. Degrease.2. Abrade with fine emery cloth (optional for tarnished metals).3. Degrease.

Precious Stones1. Degrease.

Rubber1. Adhesion is considerably improved using a chlorination treatment.2. Make a solution by volume as follows: 100 parts water; 3 parts Clorox (5 % sodium hypochlorite); part concentrated hydrochloric acid.3. Immerse rubber in solution for 1-3 minutes, rinse and dry. Use only fresh solution.

Polyethylene, Polypropylene.1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Oxidize by immersing a solution consisting of 7 parts sodium dichromate, 10 parts water and 150 parts concentrated surfuric acid for 10-15 minutes.3. Rinse with hot distilled water.4. Dry and coat with adhesive immediately.

Stainless Steel, Chromium1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Etch with concentrated hydrochloric or muriatic acid for 15 minutes at room temperature or with a solution consisting of 90 parts water, 40 parts 96% sulfuric acid, and 0.2 parts Nacconol NR (National Aniline) for 10 minutes at 150 F. followed by 10 minutes at room temperature in a solution consisting of 90 parts water, 15 parts 70% nitric acid, and 2 parts 48% hydrofluoric acid.3. Rinse in hot distilled water and dry with hot air.

Stone, Ceramics, Glass1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Wire brush (stone), sandblast.3. Rinse with water and dry.

Teflon1. Degrease with chlorine free solvents.2. Etch with sodium solution.3. Rinse and dry.

Thermoset Plastics (Epoxies, Polyurethane, Polyester, Melamine, Phenolic, PVC).1. Degrease with acetone, methyl ethyl ketone or trichloroethylene.2. Mechanically abrade (sandblast).3. Degrease.

Titanium1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Mechanically abrade (emery cloth or steel wool).3. Degrease.

Tungsten and Tungsten Carbide1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Mechanically abrade (emery cloth or grit-blast).3. Degrease.

Wood1. Sand until clean. Ensure wood is dry (moisture content not higher than 8-12%).2. Wipe surface with solvent. (Wood free of grease requires no pretreatment).

Wrought iron and mild steel1. Degrease with trichloroethylene.2. Mechanically abrade (sand-blast or emery cloth).3. Degrease.

Zinc, Lead, Nickel and Tin1. Degrease.2. Mechanically abrade (sandblast).3. Degrease.

ADHESIVE RECOMMENDATIONS (Based on surface to which it is applied).

Wood, Metal and Ceramic Surfaces:Smooth-On MT-13, Super-Instant Epoxy, EA-40, Metalset A4.Thermoset Plastics:Smooth-On MT-13, Metalset A4.Thermoplastics:Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS):Smooth-On EA-40, MT-13, Super Instant Epoxy.PVC (Rigid):Smooth-On MT-13.Cellulose Acetate Butyrate:Smooth-On EA-40.High-Impact Styrene:Smooth-On MT-13.Polypropylene:Smooth-On MT-13, Super Instant Epoxy, EA-40.Teflon:Smooth-On MT-13, Smooth-On EA-40.

Sec. 25.251 Authorized removals.

(a) Brewer's yeast. A brewer may remove brewer's yeast, in liquid or solid form containing not less than 10 percent solids (as determined by the methods of analysis of the American Society of Brewing Chemists), from the brewery in barrels, tank trucks, in other suitable containers, or by pipeline.

(b) Containers. Containers will bear a label giving the name and location of the brewery and including the words ``Brewer's Yeast.''

(c) Pipeline. If brewer's yeast is removed by pipeline, the pipeline will be described in the Brewer's Notice, Form 5130.10. The premises where the brewer's yeast is received is subject to inspection by an appropriate TTB officer during ordinary business hours.

(d) Other articles. A brewer may remove malt, malt syrup, wort, and other articles from the brewery.

(e) Methods of Analysis of the American Society of Brewing Chemists, Seventh Edition (1976). In reference to paragraph (a) of this section,

this incorporation by reference was approved by the Director of the Federal Register on March 23, 1981, and is available for inspection or at the National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). For information on the availability of this material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go to: http://www.archives.gov/federal--register/code--of--federal--regulations/ibr--locations.html. This publication is available from the American Society of Brewing Chemists, 40 Pilot Knob Road, St. Paul, Minnesota 55121.


[ T.D. ATF-224, 51 FR 7673, Mar. 5, 1986, as amended at 69 FR 18803, Apr. 9, 2004]

Sec. 25.263 Production of concentrate and reconstitution of beer.

(a) Operations at brewery. A brewer may concentrate beer or reconstitute beer only at a brewery.

(b) Marking of containers. Containers of concentrate transferred to other breweries of the same ownership, and containers of concentrate removed for export shall be marked, branded and labeled in the same manner as prescribed for containers of beer in subpart J of this part. All containers shall be identified as containers of beer concentrate.

(c) Mingling with beer. A brewer may not mingle concentrate with unconcentrated beer. A brewer may mingle reconstituted beer with other beer at the brewery.

(d) Additional labeling. Barrels, kegs, and bottles containing beer produced from concentrate will show by label or otherwise the statement ``PRODUCED FROM . . . CONCENTRATE,'' the blank to be filled in with the appropriate class designation of the beer (beer, lager, ale, stout, etc.) from which the concentrate was made. The statement will be conspicuous and readily legible and, in the case of bottled beer, will appear in direct conjunction with, and as a part of, the class designation. All parts of the class designation will appear in lettering of substantially the same size and kind.

(e) Records and reports. Brewers producing concentrate and brewers reconstituting beer from concentrate shall keep the records and reports required by subpart U of this part.

HOW TO PAINT ANYTHING: YES, YOU CAN!

Can I paint _____? How To Paint_____? How do I paint ____?

These are the most frequently asked questions I receive in my inbox daily. My answer is Yes! anything can be painted. With technology and paint formula improvements that have been introduced in the past decade you can paint just about anything so that it has a lasting finish is possible.

Here is a guide that will explain the steps on how to paint the most common surfaces and some not so common questions that readers have asked me. I also included the products that I use and that can be easily found at your local hardware, paint, or home improvement store. You can also paint anything using DIY chalk paint. Click here to learn more aboutmaking and painting with DIY chalk paint.

The most important thing to know about painting anything it is not just about the paint!The most successful paint finishes are those were the surface was prepped correctly, manufacturers directions followed, and the paint applied under the right temperature and conditions.

The only way paint should be applied is in light coats. It is better to have more light coats then fewer thicker ones. This has to do with the chemistry of paint, thin coats wear much slower than thick coats, because they dry harder.

BEFORE YOU PAINT ANYTHING. KEEP THESE THREE THINGS IN MIND:1. Prep correctly and take the time to sand. No need to sand it to the bare wood with an electric sander. A 5 10 minute going over with medium grit sandpaper on a sanding block will do the trick. It can never hurt and will only help with adhesion. Sanding briefly over the surface before will save you hours of frustration later when you find the paint has not adhered. Sanding in between coats with a fine grit paper and cleaning the surface off with a tack cloth before applying the next coat will ensure a smooth finish. 2. Only apply paint and primers in thin coats and let each one dry before applying the next coat. Use high quality brushes they may cost a bit more, but you will be rewarded with a smoother finish, plus if you take care of them, they can last for years.3. Be gentle with your painted piece the first few weeks. Paint takes time to cure. Curing brings the paint to its maximum hardness and durability. Depending on the weather, temps, and thickness of the coats it could take up to 3 weeks. Following these steps will ensure beautiful painted surfaces that will last a life time.

HOW TO PAINT WOOD FURNITURE THAT HAS PAINT, STAIN, OR POLYURETHANE ON IT.Rough the surface with 60-100 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Clean off with a tack cloth. Go over piece with a damp rag or if it is very dirty, clean with dish soap and or TSP, rinse well.Let dry and go over with a tack cloth again. Roll or brush on two light coats of a bonding or stain blocking primer.(Stain blocking for bare, dark, or old wood. Gripping primer for glossy surfaces.)Let each coat dry before applying the next. Then roll or brush on two coats of latex paint. Thin coats. Let each coat dry before applying the next. If the piece is going to see some action or for table tops protect the finish with non- yellowing polyurethane 1 2 light coats. I painted thedresser in my guest roomfollowing these steps.

Products I Use:Glidden Gripper Primer for bonding over slick or shiny surfaces. Kilz Original or Kilx Maxx for bare wood or when wood knots are present. Any brand of latex paint in the sheen you desire. To protect Minwax Polycrylic. It comes in 3 sheens

HOW TO PAINT LAMINATE FURNITURE AND CABINETSSand with 180-grit or fine sandpaper. Sand it gently to rough up the surface, but dont gouge it. Clean the surface with a cotton rag, water, and mild detergent such as dish soap. Let dry. Apply a bonding primer suitable for laminate surfaces to increase paints adhesion. Let dry according to the manufacturers directions. It may take up to a week to cure. Let it cure before rolling or spraying paint on -you will be rewarded with a lasting finish for your patience. Apply light coats of paint, let each one dry before applying the next. To ensure a very smooth finish sand in between coats with very fine grit sandpaper and clean the grit off with a tack cloth. Protect it with a coat or two of non-yellowing water based polyurethane.

HOW TO PAINTCARDBOARD BACKDROPS IN INEXPENSIVE FURNITUREIf your furniture has cardboard or even foam boards as backdrops you can paint them, but you need to make sure they are secure or else they will curl up when paint is applied. It is best to make sure all the staples/nails are being held holding in place and then paint. If you removed the backing board to paint you need to tape it down flat with low tack painters tape so it does not curl. Use a paint and primer in one formula or one coat of primer and one coat of paint. Dont remove the tape until it is dry. Either a brush or roller will work.

HOW TO PAINT UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE FABRICMix 2 parts acrylic paint with 2 parts fabric medium with 1 part water. Mix well. Fill a spray bottle with water and saturate the upholstery, this will make painting easier. Use a stiff paint brush to paint the paint mixture on the fabric. You will need at least 3 coats for good coverage. Let each coat dry before applying the next. You can buy fabric medium at the crafts store.

HOW TO PAINT FABRICTape preshrunk fabric to plastic covered cardboard. Place cardboard inside a pillow cover so paint doesnt soak through. Use fabric paint or an acrylic paint mixed with textile medium. Apply the paint in several thin coats to work it into the fibers with a stiff paint brush. Heat-set if required according to paint manufacturer instructions. Your piece can be laundered with mild detergent after 10-14 days.

HOW TO PAINT DRYWALLRemove dust from walls and wash over them with a rag dampened with a TSP and water mix. Scrap off loose paint and fill any holes with surfacing compound. For new drywall, apply wallboard sealer. For existing drywall, use a stain-blocking primer to help hide water stains. Apply two coats of latex paint, let dry between coats.

HOW TO PAINT FAKE WOOD PANELINGPaneling usually has a sheen that needs to be scuffed to prepare it for paint. Use a pole sander with 80 grit sandpaper followed by a good cleaning with TSP or detergent, rinse well. When dry, roll on two light coats of bonding primer let the first coat dry before applying the second. Then roll on your paint. 2 light coats should give good coverage. Use a good quality 1 -2 inch wide angled brush to paint the vertical grooves in the paneling.

HOW TO PAINTBRICK AND BRICK FIREPLACESScrub bricks with a stiff brush, water, and mild detergent, and then rinse well. For tough grime, use muriatic acid and rinse with 2 tablespoons baking soda per gallon of water. Apply masonry sealer and then use a long nap roller to apply paint. Use a good quality 1 -2 inch angled brush to get paint into the grout lines and crevices. If you have newly installed brick, wait 30 days before painting it.

Before I added AirStone to my fireplace, Ipainted the bricks white.

HOW TO PAINT CERAMICS AND CERAMIC TILECeramic is not porous and to paint it right so that it lasts for a long time you need to use a paint that has epoxy in it or primer/paint that are specially formulated for tile. When working with these paints you must make sure to get adequate ventilation in the room and wear a mask as the chemicals have a very strong smell. You need to sand the surface with 120 150 grit sandpaper. Clean with water, let dry. Sand again. Clean. Taking the time to prep the surface is what will make the paint adhere for a long time without scratching off. Apply two coats of primer with a high density foam roller, then two light coats of paint. Allow paint to dry for several days or cure according to the manufacturers directions.

HOW TO PAINT CONCRETEScrub with TSP, then bleach and water solution. Degrease oily spots using a concrete degreaser, and repair cracks with concrete filler. Etch the surface with a 10 percent solution of muriatic acid and water. Apply a concrete sealer and two to three coats of paint designed for concrete surfaces.

HOW TO PAINT METALClean the surface with a stiff wire brush, or steel wool to remove flaking paint or rust. Run fine to medium grit sandpaper over the surface to rough it up just a bit. Rinse well with a damp rag and let dry. Prime with metal primer and let dry. If metal is rusted, use spray paint with rust inhibitors. Let dry. Apply several thin coats of paint. Let each coat dry before applying the next coat.

I like to use spray paint on pieces that have rounded metal parts. See thebed frame I paintedfor my daughter. If using spray paint, hold the can 112 inches from the surface as you spray. Shake the can during the application to keep the color mixed. Spray lightly to avoid paint runs. Let each coat dry for about 30 minutes or until it is dry to the touch before applying the next coat.

HOW TO PAINT OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTUREIt is best to paint exterior fixtures when they are not in direct sunlight, if you are not removing the fixture, wait until a cloudy day or paint when the fixture is in the shade. Scour the surface with steel wool and detergent to clean off rust and peeling paint. Rinse and let dry. Use a stiff paint brush to apply an exterior oil-based metallic paint. Apply light coats and work fast. Let each coat dry before applying the next coat. Seehow I transformed my outdoor light fixtures with a hammered paint finish.

HOW TO PAINT GLASSStart with a clean, dry surface. If you use a pattern, tape it to the outside of clear glass. With an artists brush, apply a thin layer of glass paint. For a more opaque finish, apply an additional coat after the first is dry. Paint slowly to avoid bubbles. If you want the look of frosted glass or mirrored glass use a specialty paint made to achieve the look. I used Looking Glass Mirror paint on the back of myfireplace screen.

HOW TO PAINT A MIRROR OR A MIRRORED WALLTo paint mirror successfully you need to use a good Bonding Primer. One that I like is called, Stix. It is in a blue can. It will do the trick. Follow the directions on the can, but basically you will want to clean the surface well and let it dry, then roll it on. After it is dry, paint over it. I would use a high quality roller that has rounded edges so you do not see roller lines in the finish when it is dry.

HOW TO PAINT CHINAWash item well with detergent and let dry. Use craft paints made for ceramic and china painting or paint pens. Use a foam brush to apply. Paint pens are super easy to use when you want to only paint on parts of a piece or paint a design. Let each coat dry before adding the next coat. Do not use before the piece until it has time to cure and follow paint manufacturers directions that may include sealing it with a clear non- yellowing sealer or baking it in the oven to set the finish.

HOW TO PAINT PLASTICSand the surfaced lightly to increase adhesion. Wash with TSP and then rinse well with water. Be careful not to touch the clean surface, leaving oil behind. Apply spray primer and then spray paint, both designed for plastic. Apply multiple thin coats according to the manufactures direction and let dry between coats. Ipainted my desk chairfrom basic office black to bright and cheery white using this method.

HOW TO PAINT A WOOD FLOORScour the surface with 150-grit sandpaper, then wash the floor with TSP to remove dirt and dust.Allow floor to completely dry it may take a few hours to a day. When the floor is dry, apply oil based primer and let it dry overnight. Lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe the floor clean with mineral spirits using a tack cloth. Apply the first, thin coat of paint with a natural-bristle brush ( this will create a smoother finish as nap from a roller can create a stippled finish). Allow paint to dry 24 hours. Apply two more thin coats, allowing 24 hours in between coats.

After the final coat of paint, only walk on the surface with socks on. If you want the finish to last dont put the furniture back on right away. Oil based paint dries overnight, but takes 28 days to cure to maximum hardness. If you must put the furniture back in, do not drag it in, pick it up and carefully place back down.

HOW TO PAINT A VINYL FLOORYou can paint vinyl, but it may not last forever, that is why I put this last. Sand the vinyl with 220-grit sandpaper to rough up the surface and dull the shine. Wipe it clean with a liquid deglosser. This will improve bonding. Let it dry. Prime the floor with a gripping primer. Let dry. Roll or brush on one or two coats of porch and floor enamel, let each coat dry overnight before applying the next.

COMMENTS

1. Paigesays

09/14/2012 at 11:06 pmHi, I want to brighten up my new apartment with paint, but have no idea how to get started! I would love to hear your experiences with painting! What was your process of deciding on a color? Did you try lots of samples or just match something in the room? Where do you buy paint? How long do you think it will take an inexperienced painter like me to do each room? Thank you for your help!

REPLY2.

HYPERLINK "http://[email protected]/" Susansays

09/25/2012 at 8:52 amI really enjoyed finding your website I too am a do it yourself paint sew garden etc. I am redoing a large secretary for my daughter who has contemporary taste and grappling with going white or off white loved loved your white desk redo thanks so much for sharing!

REPLY3. prarthanasays

10/04/2012 at 10:37 ami really liked everything u made actually i wanted 2 decorate my room in artistic way.. i want 2 make it as vintage room bt i dnt knw excatly how 2 start so pls help me if u can :D

REPLY4. Amy W.says

10/06/2012 at 1:28 amOh my goshIve been on your site for over an hour. You are amazing! Im sitting in my kitchen thinking about how badly I would LOVE to paint my oak cabinets! Have you always been so brave? Im so scared to start! You have inspired me tonight..

REPLY5. susansays

10/30/2012 at 11:34 pmOK, heres a How to paint anything challenge. Bathroom floor tiles.

REPLY

HYPERLINK "http://inmyownstyle.com/" Diane Henklersays

10/31/2012 at 4:51 pmHi Susan You can successfully paint bathroom floor tiles using oil based primer and paint or epoxy paint. You need to thoroughly clean and if they are glossy sand them. There are a few companies that sell kits especially made for floor tiles. I think Rust-oleum makes one. Do a Google search for Bathroom Floor Tile paint. I think they are kind of pricey, but cheaper then replacing tiles.

REPLY6. LaDonnasays

07/23/2013 at 6:51 pmThank you for a wonderful, informative post!

REPLY7. Marysays

07/23/2013 at 8:45 pmDiane, I love your site and pin my favorites like this one and give you credit, of course. Have you ever tried to remove popcorn from the ceiling? I have read tutorials on this, but I love how you take a complex task and make it sound so easy that it makes me want to drop everything and try it. I would love your take on this task.

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07/23/2013 at 9:17 pmHi Mary I have never removed a popcorn ceiling. I dont even like painting ceilings. Removing the texture looks like a hard messy job. Sorry that I dont have any advice for you. Best of luck with it.

REPLY margote olsonsays

08/13/2014 at 4:48 pmHi Mary, I know this is a year-post, but regarding the popcorn ceiling. First, even before you try to remove it you have to find out when the popcorn ceiling was applied because in the 70s formaldehyde was used as a mixture in the PC and if you disturb it when removing it you can inhale toxic fumes which can attack your lungs and you become very ill, especially if you wet it down and then scrape. We redid our home and it had popcorn ceilings which were blown on we think from the 80s, so we just used 1/4 inch drywall and just re dry-walled the ceiling.

REPLY marysays

08/13/2014 at 9:14 pmMargote, Thank you for your kind reply. I really need to try it.

REPLY margote olsonsays

08/13/2014 at 9:52 pmNot a problem Mary. I know 40-50 years ago the industry mixed all kinds of terrible things in ceilings, floor tiles, back splashes, even claw tubs and the worst combos were asbestos and formaldehyde. I think us baby-boomers are suffering because of that now, but at least our kids and grand kids wont have to deal with it.

REPLY8. Sheryll & Critters.says

07/25/2013 at 6:25 amThank you Diane for all the great information. You are my go to for anything I want to try to do.

I thought I would add my experience with a recently tried weathering new pine wood thingy. Do NOT use steel wool and vinegar, cause it turns Pine wood ORANGE.. it was horrible.

Also, the Dollar Tree has a 12 pack of sand paper for ONE dollar(and there are graduated grits)! As opposed to my home store that I paid $5 for a 4 pack of all one course grit. I have been sanding my life away lately, so I have gone through a lot and I definitely needed more than just ONE grit I dont have $20 for just sand paper!!!! Ya know?

I hope to get to try painting fabric in the near future, so this information is so very valuable to me. Thank you again.

REPLY9. Donnasays

07/25/2013 at 1:36 pmHi Diane,Thank you for this great tutorial. I want to paint the ceramic tile upper accent pieces in my guest shower. They are dark forest green. Does the post on painting ceramic tile include shower tile where it will get wet and possibly be scrubbed on occasion?

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07/25/2013 at 10:07 pmHi Donna You can paint tiles in a shower, but it many not last forever. The fact that they are high accent tiles and wont get as much water on them, is a plus. The prep is crucial. Make sure to scour the tiles with medium grit sandpaper. Follow the directions on the box. Try not to use the shower for a few days to a week to let the paint really dry. When it is cured, it can be cleaned, I would just be careful not to scrub it too hard.

REPLY Donnasays

07/26/2013 at 1:31 amThank you Diane. After my guests leave, I will tackle that!

REPLY10. Helensays

08/01/2013 at 5:53 amDear Diane,

I have looked at your work and I have to say it looks magnificent!

On that basis, I painted a dark wood chest of drawers with waterbased paint. It went off so quickly I found it very difficult. So I added an agent that slowed the drying time down.

The huge problem I have is that the drawers do not close. I have only painted the edges as you have suggested. If I rub down, the dark wood will show when the drawers are closed.

What would you do?

Regards.

Helen

REPLY


08/06/2013 at 9:03 pmHi Helen Have you tried rubbing candle wax all over the sides of the drawers? If that doesnt work, I would probably sand the edges to the bare wood until the drawers close perfectly, then sand them down even more so that when you add a few light coats of paint, they still close. If this wont help, let me know or send me a photo.

REPLY11. Rhondasays

08/04/2013 at 3:42 amThanks Diane! I will reread this post many times as I tackle my painting projects.

REPLY12. Martynasays

08/15/2013 at 2:46 pmHello,First of all this is an awesome resource for someone starting up with refinishing and painting furniture. I really appreciated your posts.

I have a question about painting a laminate piece a chest similar to Ikea MALM particle board wrapped in melamine. Is Gripper really a necessity? I planned on roughing up the surface, priming, and painting with home made chalk paint. Then buffing with wax, and maybe covering the top with glass, just to make sure toddlers roughing up the alarm clock dont rip the layers of paint off. Should I really go with Gripper, or is Killz enough on a nightstand/chest?

REPLY


08/15/2013 at 5:27 pmHi Martyna

Gripper is a primer. It is better for using on Laminate then Kilz is. Kilz is better for dark and old pieces of wood furniture that have tannins that will bleed through and change the color of your paint. Laminate is smooth and has no tannins. Gripper is made especially for smooth slick surfaces. To make sure your painted finish lasts a long time. I would sand the laminate to rough it up. Clean off the grit and apply one coat of Gripper, let dry. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper just to level any primer ridges or drips. Then use chalk paint and wax. It may take up to 30 days for the paint to cure, so if you do a scratch test the day after you paint and paint comes off, dont think you failed. Give it time to cure.

REPLY Martynasays

08/16/2013 at 8:50 amThank you for your reply. I just checked my paint shelf, and its actually Zinsser 1-2-3, which is supposed to be a slick surface primer, too, but I was no impressed by its performance over wood paneling. I was advised I did not need the sanding part, and now, months after, I can scratch the paint off with my fingernail. Ill try Gripper, and maybe scrape a panel, or two, to check, if it gives any better results.

As my panels are probably 1/3 of the rooms height (under the chair rail), would waxing them improve the durability of the finish? I read latex will buff a bit with wax, and that chalk paint is a no-no for walls, but I see new scuff and scratch marks weekly, as my two kids push furniture around, ride tiny bikes, and so on.

REPLY Cathleensays

11/19/2013 at 12:17 pmIs laminate the same thing as veneer on a wood table?

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11/20/2013 at 9:59 amHi Cathleen Not exactly Laminate is a man made product a composite of wood and plastic and other stuff. It comes in matte and shiny and all colors and even can look like wood. I call it plastic wood. Veneer however is made of wood very thin sheets that are adhered to the surface of cheaper wood to make it look like it is a higher quality. You can usually tell if something has veneer on if it peels up or you see a hole in the surface that looks layered around the edges. Laminate would just wear away smooth.

REPLY13. Augustsays

08/15/2013 at 10:11 pmHi Diane,

I made some storage bins for our nursery. They are made out of basic cardboard and held together with duct tape (classy, huh?). We do not have the budget for fabric since Im due any day now, and I was hoping to paint them.

I saw that you said to use the primer and paint, but Im wondering if spray paint is possible, and if so, what kind? The boxes are already assembled, so should I take them back apart, spray them, and then reassemble?

Please save me. We have less than a week and Id really hate to blow $100 for our perfect bins.

-August

REPLY


08/15/2013 at 11:52 pmHi August How about wrapping them with colorful gift wrap. I did that to cardboard file boxes. You can see how I did it in this post:http://inmyownstyle.com/2013/01/the-container-store-knock-off-magazine-files.htmlSpray paint would work OK, but it may not adhere on the duct tape. There is no need to have to take them apart to spray. Much easier to spray as they are. Any brand of spray paint will work fine.

Congrats on the upcoming addition to your family.

REPLY14.

HYPERLINK "http://maisonmutt.com/" Nikisays

08/16/2013 at 12:07 amHi Diane,We have a wonderful landlord that doesnt mind our upgrading & spiffing up. The master bath was our latest project. Charcoal grey & silver were the color choices along with a fabulous damask wallpaper accent on one wall. Sadly, the old bathroom counter top is a marbly-brown (like melted rocky road ice cream) & now stands out like a sore thumb. Could you offer some advice regarding old bathroom laminate counter tops? At least, I believe its a laminate. Is this surface paintable & if so.How?Oh! Also, thanks for your chalk paint information. I made all the necessary purchases & will be attacking our curio cabinet this weekend!

REPLY


08/20/2013 at 11:26 pmLaminate is paintable, but even if its done the right way you may have a problem with it getting wet everyday. I think I would use the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations paint. I am not sure of the colors it comes in but check them out you might find one you like. It is made to stand up to water and abuse, unlike regular paint which if applied even with a good bonding primer would start to peel in a short time. The paint is sold at home improvement stores. You could also look into using paint that is made to paint over tile. It is called Homex Tub and Tile paint.I have never used it, but have heard from others that it really smells while you apply it, but once it is dry the smell goes away and the paint works well. There is also a new product from Rustoleumn that you brush over a surface to repel water. I forget what it is called, but is brand new. You could paint the lamintate sand, well gripping primer, and then paint and then used this product. The sanding and gripping primer are the most important steps to make sure you get good adhesion. If you sand the surface extremely well, chalk paint might hold up longer than regular paint and the protective wax coat would repel the water.

REPLY15. daniisays

09/21/2013 at 9:39 pmHi I wanted to paint pandas on a rice cooker either on a alreadypainted.metalon or plastic. What paints do I buy for painting a bunch pandas on it and for it to not chip off

REPLY16. daniisays

09/25/2013 at 11:36 amHey still waiting

REPLY17. Jackie Sorichsays

10/20/2013 at 11:20 amOk, this is BRILLIANT too. Great job!

REPLY18. Patricia Flournoysays

10/23/2013 at 1:02 pmI am having white oak countertops put on a vanity. They will have an undermount sink. if I want to give them a faux marble finish what process should I use to protect them from future water damage?

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10/23/2013 at 1:30 pmHi Patricia I used Fiddes and Sons paste wax to protect the faux marble that I painted on the top of a sideboard and it looks great. It would look good and protect at the same time. I would use a few coats. Wax then buff, then repeat to build up the layers. The downside -you will have to add more wax over time as it wears.

You could also use Minwax Polycylic. It is a non-yellowing water based poly. It comes in both satin and gloss finishes. 2 3 coats light coats (let each one dry before applying the next) would give you a nice layer of protection. Either way, you will still need to make sure water that gets on it is wiped up right away.

REPLY19. nancysays

12/01/2013 at 10:06 pmHi Diane,I would like to know if you could help me out with painting on top of wallpaper I cant remove it as the underneath is really in bad shape,I removed it in my bathroom and it cost me more than I care to share I had to get a professional in, now 3yrs later Im in the same boat again. I would appreciate any help or suggestions u could help me with.

REPLY


12/02/2013 at 12:18 amHi Nancy

I will have to add how to do this to the post. You can paint over your wallpaper as long as it is adhered well. If it is, make sure all the seams are glued down. If the seams are raised you can sand them a bit before painting. Clean the walls with TSP or detergent and water. Rinse and let dry. So that the paper does not raise as you paint use oil-based primer. Latex is water based and water can wrinkle paper. I would use Kilz Original. It dries in 30 minutes. If you apply two coats, letting the first dry before you apply the second you should create a good seal and be able to use a latex paint over it. It used to be that you always used all oil-based products over wallpaper, but as long as the paper is sealed well with the Kilz, it should be fine. If you dont mind painting with oil-based paint then it is best to use that.

REPLY20. Helensays

01/23/2014 at 6:41 amDear Diane I would love to know how to do art on ceramic tiles that will stand up to heat. Is there a type of paint and sealer I could use? I love to do art projects and think that using tiles could be a form of art for the kitchen, but if I set something hot on them, I dont want them to become scratched. What about epoxying them? Would that work? And what type of paint will adhere to ceramic tiles without sanding them? I would like them to remain shiny. Helen

REPLY


01/30/2014 at 9:07 pmHi Helen The only product that I know of is the tile paint I wrote about in the post. Rustoleum and Homax each make one as well as a few other companies. They make specialty paint made just for tiles. It is epoxy paint. Look in the paint aisle at your local home improvement store to find it.

REPLY21. Rozsays

02/01/2014 at 10:57 amJust discovered your siteLOVE it! Id like to paint some white-washed wicker furniture to look more like pecan or natural. Any suggestions?

REPLY22. Jamiesays

02/06/2014 at 8:38 amThanks so much for taking the time to create this amazing guide. Its so informative, Im going to print & laminate it to keep with my painting supplies!

REPLY23.

HYPERLINK "http://aol.com/" Annesays

02/16/2014 at 10:42 amCan terrazzo floors be painted? Our 1930s cottage has badly damaged terrazzo flooring and the cost to remove would be prohibitive. We do not want to make any major decisions about what to cover it with so I would like to paint it for the time being. Can it be done, and if so, what should we do?

REPLY


02/16/2014 at 12:27 pmHi Anne

You can paint it, but it will require a few steps. Floors in general are the hardest to paint since everything has to be removed from the room and you have to get down on your hands and knees to do most of the work. I just started repainting a wood floor in my mudroom and it is hard to keep everyone out while I paint and allow the paint to dry. I would try painting the floor in one small room first and see how it adheres and holds up then proceed to another room.

The prep work is crucial and is where you need to put the most effort. Is the terrazzo sealed or waxed? You would need to strip this first or sand it off. Once the finish is removed and it is bare floor, sand it well to rough up the surface. There are stone etching products and garage floor paints made for painting over stone, but they are for exteriors, not for indoors since the fumes would be toxic.

I would try making DIY chalk paint with Plaster of Paris and Calcium Carbonate powder. This makes into a very hard and durable paint finish. If I were painting a stone or tile floor, this is what I would use.

Once the floor is sanded and roughed up, roll or brush on one very light coat of gripping primer (Glidden and Benjamin Moore both make one)-let it dry, then apply one more very light coat. Let dry. Then apply one to two coats of paint, but again light coats only and let each coat dry at least for 8-12 hours, before applying the next. This will help with adhesion. Once the paint is dry, you can seal it with a non-yellowing polyurethane. I like water based poly. Zinsser Ultimate Polyurethane is a good one for floors. I used it on my wood staircase steps over 2 years ago and it has held up wonderfully.

The key to making the project a success is the making sure the surface is free of a wax top layer and sanded well so the paint has something to adhere to. In high traffic areas, you may want to place a throw rug or runner down to help protect the finish even more.

You can find the DIY Chalk Paint recipe in this post:http://inmyownstyle.com/diy-chalk-paint-recipesREPLY24. Nansays

02/24/2014 at 10:11 amI appreciate your website so much. I was hoping to find an instance of applying some sort of plaster finish over a wooden coffee table top to mimic stone. Have you done this?

REPLY


02/25/2014 at 11:59 amHi Nan I have not done it, but it could probably be done with one of the stone making forms they use to make concrete walkways. I think Quickcrete or one of the big cement companies makes the plastic 16 18 square forms. Ed and I used a brick pattern for a base under our deck to store outdoor items when we first moved into our house. Home Depot and Lowes sell them. It may not work on a tabletop, but could give you an idea of how to do something similar with plaster to look like stone. I would also look in the crafts store in the tile aisle. There are many cool new products that mimic the look of stone.

REPLY25. kristasays

03/23/2014 at 4:42 pmHi, Love your site,very in depthI was wondering if I could chalk paint my stainless steel fridge,I can`t take the finger print marks any longer.

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03/23/2014 at 10:24 pmHi Krista Chalk paint would work well on metal. It can be painted on any surface, even glass.

REPLY26. Luz Andradesays

03/29/2014 at 12:04 pmI love your website!What about painting my marble batrhoom countertop?

REPLY


03/30/2014 at 12:05 pmHi Luz-

It can be painted anything can if you prep correctly and use the right products. There are a few Tub and Tile types of paint products out on the market that will do the trick. All paint stores carry them -Homex, Tub and Tile, Rustoleum for countertops are a few that I know of. They smell awful so be prepared to ventilate well when painting. You could also rough up the surface well with a medium grit sandpaper, clean it well and let dry, then roll on a thin coat of oil-based primer like Kilz Original or Zinseer 123. Let it dry well and then roll or brush on another light coat. Let it dry. Then use a high quality paint made for high water areas like Advance by Benjamin Moore in a high gloss or semi-gloss. It does not need any poly over it. It is highly durable alone.

REPLY27. Valeriesays

03/30/2014 at 7:52 amHow do I paint over concrete sealer (walls are painted with it) and how do I paint over concrete sealer that has been previously painted (on the floors)? Thanks! Love your blog!

REPLY


03/30/2014 at 11:05 amHi Valerie

It can be painted over successfully with an epoxy paint, but that is pretty toxic and the smell overpowering especially if you have a large area to paint over. I know that paint companies come up with many new innovative products every year that I am sure would do the job for you in a less toxic way. Most floor and porch paints on the market now may do the job. I think no matter what type of paint you use, you will have to sand and/or prime the surface so the paint really sticks.

I would go to a brand name paint store in your area like a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. They will know exactly what products to use and how to do it since they specialize in all things paint. Home Improvement stores may sell a non-epoxy product for painting over sealed concrete too, but I find not all the workers in the paint department are as knowledgeable as the people that work at stand alone brand paint stores are.

REPLY28. Cindysays

04/07/2014 at 9:20 pmMy daughter wants to use a wood bench as her guest book for her wedding. Can you tell me what type of paint pens I should use and a sealant that will not smear the paint pens. I have read that many people did not use the right products together and ended up with a smeared mess on what should have been a wonderful memory piece. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!!!Cindy

REPLY29. Carolsays

04/15/2014 at 10:48 amI am using chalk paint for the first time on a wood bookcase. I used your favorite chalk recipe (plaster of paris and calcium carbonate). Paint goes on nice and smooth, but thickens rapidily as I paint. Do I just keep adding water to maintain the consistency?

REPLY


04/15/2014 at 11:32 amHi Carol The CCP/POP mixture should not get thick to the point you cant paint with it. What brand and type of paint are you using?

REPLY30. jan gartsidesays

04/19/2014 at 11:37 amI have a beautiful step ladder in bare wood. I would like to give at as a wedding present, to be used as a pot stand for the garden. I would like to decorate this with details of the wedding, date. venue. flowers worn etc etc.I do not want to paint the whole steps just decorate them . How do I go about this. Do I seal the bare wood first and then paint on the decoration and then polyurethane. I would like it to be weatherproof. Help please????

REPLY


04/20/2014 at 8:46 pmHi Jan

You do not have to seal the bare wood first. I would lightly sand the areas where you want the decorations and then paint them on make sure not to apply the paint too thick. Apply a second coat if needed. Let the paint dry for about 24 hours and then use a water based poly for exteriors. Minwax Helmsman Urethane- the water based one would be good to use. It should not yellow the paint. Any poly or sealer that is not water based will yellow the paint colors.

REPLY31. Joesays

05/09/2014 at 12:50 amHello Diane Question re How to Paint Wood Furniture that has Paint, Stain, or Polyurethane on It. Im going to repurpose my old office furniture (the same polyurethane type finish as found on basic big box oak kitchen cabinets but more unique and in very good condition). I essentially plan to tear it down and strategically place pieces as wainscoting at various spots in a retirement cottage (just cant let go completely). I intend to use one of your DIY chalk paint recipes. My question is whether its preferable to Roll or brush on two light coats of a bonding or stain blocking primer. (Stain blocking for bare, dark, or old wood. Gripping primer for glossy surfaces.) as you suggest on this page re how to paint anything? Or, should I just follow your chalk paint instructions (i.e. sand, clean, thin coats, etc.)? I have the time and desire to do whatever will get the best results, but dont want to waste effort or overdo the process, as there are a lot of pieces.

BTW Ive read a lot of blogs and website articles on chalk painting. Despite what my question might suggest, I find yours is by far the most thorough and easy to understand. Youve made me anxious to get started. Thanks. Joe

REPLY32. Suzisays

06/14/2014 at 5:00 pmHi great info !!I bought a stainless steel light base from Ikea butsadly it doesnt look right with the decor. Can I transformit so it looks like dull brass ?!

REPLY


06/16/2014 at 1:11 pmHi Suzy Look for spray paint that say antique brass or gold, not Brite Brass. Some brands are naturally more brown than yellow. Rustolem makes one in their metallic line. I believe it has a primer already in it. Just clean the base well and lightly go over it with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean off the grit and spray one very light coat on. Keeping the can about 10- 12 inches away from the base. Wait about 5 minutes and repeat. Continue painting with 5 mins in between each coat. Then let it dry in a dust free area for a few days.

REPLY33.

HYPERLINK "http://www.angelhatfield.origamiowl.com/" Angel Hatfieldsays

06/15/2014 at 1:10 pmI need to paint my foam inserts, for my jewelry trays. I am a jewelry vendor, at festivals, and the sun is a killer on my white, foam inserts. I have researched, and the only thing I come up with is, use a water based paint or spray paint. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You

REPLY


06/16/2014 at 1:02 pmHi Angel Spray paint will eat the foam. I would use water based acrylic craft paint. Brush or roll on light coats letting each one dry before applying the next. To seal the paint, you could use a decoupage medium. I like Martha Stewart Durable Matte Decoupage medium it is not as thick as Mod Podge. I used it over thesecardboard box organizers.

REPLY34. teresasays

06/24/2014 at 9:37 pmWhat an amazing, awesome, hilarious post!

Thank youuuu!

REPLY35. Toni B.says

07/04/2014 at 1:28 pmIm painting a metal plant stand, using Clark + Kensington Paint & Primer in One and Ive made chalk paint using this paint plus calcium carbonate. (2 Parts Paint and 1 Part Cal. Carbon.)

Ive read I can do this, rather than using the more expensive brand of all-ready prepared Chalk Paint. (done that). Everything Ive read indicates that home-made chalk paint can work on any surface.

Ive tested my HMCP on a small picture frame. It hasnt dried yet and it looks alright. Doesnt seem as chalky as projects Ive made with expensive Chalk Paint but Im trying to conserve.

My questions to you are:

Am I throwing away good money by trying to make my own chalk paint? Would you use a paint with a primer such as the one in the above-described application? Should I use a non-acrylic latex flat paint? Is there one paint brand you prefer to others?

Would really appreciate your comments.

Love what youve done with many projects, and Im inspired by your talent and tenacity.

Thank you for giving this query your attention.

REPLY


07/05/2014 at 1:01 pmHi Toni I make all my own chalk paint and will never ever paint a piece of furniture with any other formula. I love how the pieces come out, so much better than just painting it with latex that leaves a rubbery sticky feel to the finish as well as cost saving. The Calcium Carbonate Powder with a little Plaster of Paris makes up one very durable painted finish. You can always add more for a more chalky finish. Just mix it in water first to dissolve, then add to the paint.

I like a little distressing, but not too much aging. I like my pieces to look bright. Any time you use a paint and primer in one paint formula you run the risk of the paint turning to sludge. That is when you waste money. I always use plain ole latex.

My go to when painting furniture is to use Glidden Premium in a satin finish. It mixes up into a great consistency every time I make it. You can use any finish as it will all go flat once you add the CCP and PoP. I just like the way the satin looks when mixed. Just make sure the paint label does not say Paint + Primer in one formula.(They have updated a few labels recently) I stay away from any paint with a primer or acrylic in it when making chalk paint. Some brands dont mark it and use words like Plus. When you see this it usually means it has a primer or acrylic in it.

REPLY36. Idasays

07/11/2014 at 3:35 pmHello Diane, Thank you for sharing! What brought me to this page was the caption how to paint ANYTHING since I have been struggling with painting dried pandan leaves (close to plam tree leaves). I know wrong deparment. But given your knowledge and experience I was hoping you could have tips. The leaves are dried and the surface looks and feels like laminated bamboo with a thin layer of resin on it so you can feel the parallel fibers under your fingers and a waxy surface. Except that dried pandan is supple. I tried to clean the leaves with acetone, let dry, applied a primer (acrylic resin), let dry 3 hours, applied an acrylic paint, let dry 18 hours. A gentle scratching will rub off the paint and the primer underneath. Intuitively, what would you try? Thank you again.

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07/15/2014 at 12:13 pmHi Ida You may just have to wait a few weeks for the paint to cure. In paint drying land paint may feel dry to the touch after 18 hours, but it has not cured. That could take a few weeks depending on the dryness of the air.

You could try a water-based gripping primer. Glidden makes one called Gripper and Benjamin Moores is called AquaGrip. You may also want to look into a Melamine paint. They are a bit pricey, but it is made to adhere to shiny smooth surfaces. Chalk paint may work very well also. It is a flat finish, but you could add soft wax over it once it is dry and buff the leaves with a soft cloth to bring up the shine. Once you paint the leaves you may simply just have to wait for the paint to cure so it wont scratch off. It could take up to a month on a slick surface.

REPLY37. Shelleysays

07/19/2014 at 3:21 pmI want to know if I can use artista acrylic paint for some small work on a porcelain sink?

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07/22/2014 at 9:37 pmHi Shelley- Is is for decoration on the outside of the sink or to fix a flaw in the sink itself?

REPLY38. Hollie Williamssays

07/30/2014 at 2:11 pmIve been thinking of painting an old metal filing cabinet which just NEVER gets used. Im unsure whether to use spray paint, metal paint or chalk paint! Im looking for a vintage type look so would want to distress & think chalk paint might be the best to achieve this however I have not used chalk paint on mental before!Thank you x

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07/30/2014 at 10:12 pmChalk paint works beautifully on metal. I painted my own metal file cabinets with it. You can find the post here:http://inmyownstyle.com/2013/11/file-cabinet-makeover.htmlREPLY39. Betty Lustilasays

08/09/2014 at 3:48 pmDiane,

I love your creativity, Im in the process of finding and/or creating a stencil to make a painted rug design on my deck. Have you used stencils? If so, what did you create and how did it work for you?

Thanks,Have a Blessed Day!

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08/09/2014 at 5:35 pmHi Betty I have used stencils many times. I have made my own as well as used purchased ones. It is very easy to stencil a floor, just make sure you start at the center and work out to the sides so your pattern will be center and even on all sides of the floor. Two companies to check out areL Royal Designs Stencils and Cutting Edge Stencils.

Here are a few links to some posts showing what I have done.http://inmyownstyle.com/2010/01/howto-paint-a-rug-on-your-floor.htmlIn this home tour is a photo of my foyer that I did using a Royal Design Studios stencil:http://inmyownstyle.com/2013/06/house-tour-2013.htmlFun way to use a stencil:http://inmyownstyle.com/2011/10/how-to-stencil-a-shower-door-a-cutting-edge-stencils-giveaway.htmlREPLY40. margote olsonsays

08/17/2014 at 6:02 pmHi Di, I have a couple of vintage ugly brass hurricane lamps which id like to paint. Do I use your method above on How to paint metal or is there a special paint to use for brass. Also, do you have any ingenuous ideas for painting lamps like the hurricane ones that dont have a lamp shade per se. Can i use the chalk paint recipe that i made from you with calcium carbonate? But i need some ideas on colours. Thank you in advance.

REPLY41. megansays

10/26/2014 at 12:08 pmHi! I recently purchased a display shelf from Hallmark. I am not sure what the surface is but it is smooth and light in color. I am hoping to paint it in a fun whimsical pattern. I was thinking I could use the little acrylic paint bottles sine I am am probably going to have 8-10 different colors. Would I need to use a primer for acrylic paint? Also, should I seal it with something when I am finished? Thank you!

REPLY42. Randy Cainsays

11/13/2014 at 9:36 amGood morning Diane,your step by step information process on painting a stained chair will be followed as I have a few to finish.

Thank you very much in sharing your process and explanations.

Randy

REPLY43. Bobbesays

11/17/2014 at 7:31 pmI have a bathroom pedestal sink with painting in the bowl. A cleaning person put Clorox in the bowl and part of the paint faded. Can t be repainted??

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11/19/2014 at 9:49 pmHi Bobbe I know you can change the color of a sink with epoxy paint that comes in neutral colors, but it sounds like you want to use colors to paint over a design to bring it back. I think I would try using model airplane paint that you can buy at the crafts store. I would sand over the areas with a little piece of sandpaper first, then paint. Light coats only. More lighter coats of paint are better than one or two thick ones. Once it is painted, I would let it cure for a week before using the sink.

REPLY44.

HYPERLINK "http://self/" Brendasays

11/18/2014 at 10:34 pmThanks for the information. Great post. I am wonderingI have a rocking chair that I purchased at an Estate sale. Someone painted it white over the stain/lacquered original finish. The white paint is just peeling off and the original finish is still shiny underneath. Do I need to sand and prime the piece? Strip it with stripper? I am so confused but it cant be left like it is.

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11/19/2014 at 9:37 pmHi Brenda

If you want the chair to last for a long time, then yes you need to sand and prime it. I would use 100 grit sandpaper to loosen any peeling paint and to rough up the shiny surface so the paint has something to adhere to. If the paint has peeled off in some places and not other and the finish is uneven, I would strip the chair so the entire surface is even and smooth.

I would use a gripping primer. Glidden Gripper is one that I use. You can get it at Home Depot. Two light coats, letting the first one dry before applying the second. Once that is dry you can paint. Apply thin coats. If you want extra protection, you can seal the paint with a water-based polyurethane like Polycrylic.

REPLY45. Julie Orchardsays

12/19/2014 at 7:41 amPlease can you help me. I have a black granite sink which has been covered with white gloss paint by a decorator. The white paint has now entered the grains and we have tried everything to remove the white paint. Is it possible to paint the black sink back to its original colour (black matt?)

Thank you.

Julie

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01/10/2015 at 8:51 pmHi Julie You could use epoxy paint to do this. It is rather smelly as it dries, but once it is, it provides a very shiny and durable surface that can get wet. I know Rustoleum makes one as does a brand called Homex. If you do a search on Google for Bathroom tile and or shower paint the brands and images will come up in the search. Home Depot and Lowes sells a few of the brands.

REPLY46. Carolynsays

01/08/2015 at 6:20 amHi,I am in Australia so a lot of the brands you talk about are not available.What I want to know, is whether I can paint Polycarbonate suitcases. I am wanting to put logos (Cars, Batman etc) on them for my kids.Thank you.

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01/08/2015 at 1:00 pmHi Carolyn to paint the polycarbonate (mostly acrylic plastic) you need to prime them first with a good gripping style primer and then paint. Ask at your paint store for a bonding or gripping primer. Let it cure for a few days before brushing on paint. Light coats are better than one or two thicker ones. You can also use chalk paint. It grips to just about any surface.

REPLY47. Shilsays

01/15/2015 at 11:16 amI cannot find anything online that answers my question, hopefully you can. I have an upholstered chair that i dont want to take apart but I want to paint the frame. How do I protect the fabric while painting ?

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01/16/2015 at 7:51 amHi Shil I would use painters tape to protect the frame. Clean the fabric as well as you can before placing the tape over it. Tape wont stick to dust or oily spot. You can buy Painters tape at any paint or home improvement store. It comes in different widths. I would get a wider width. When placing the tape over the fabric you want to protect, make sure it runs right along the edge of the wood. You may need to cut the tape into little pieces to cover any tight or intricate areas. Smooth the tape down. I would use a small paint brush to apply the paint right where the paint will meet the fabric. This will allow a more concise application. A larger angled brush for the rest.

REPLY48. Sandy Stimerssays

01/19/2015 at 8:11 amWould like to chalk paint some furniture and then paint designs to personalize the piece. Would I use acrylic paint for the design work? Can I wax over the design too? Thanks

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01/19/2015 at 4:33 pmHi Sandy You can use the acrylic paint to make chalk paint if you used the Calcium Carbonate recipe. It may bind with the other chalk paint recipes. After the paint is dry, you can definitely use plain acrylic paint to paint your design. Let it dry well before applying wax over it. Dont use Briwax, that will remove the paint. Fiddes and Sons and Miss Mustard Seed clear waxes are two that I have used that will not take the painted designs off.

REPLY49. Betty Jernigansays

01/20/2015 at 11:08 pmI would like to use artist acrylic paint to paint a scene on a vinyl chairseat.isthat possible ? if so please tell me what to do.thanks for your help

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01/21/2015 at 11:36 amHi Betty To successfully paint on the vinyl you would first need to prepare the vinyl for paint. You would need to rough up the area where the paint is going to go so that it has something to adhere to, then use a spray primer for vinyl or plastic. Rustoleum 2X is a good one. The vinyl is too smooth and the paint would chip off if you did not sand/prime first. Once the the primer is dry, you can use the acrylic paint to add a design.

It might be hard to sand and prime just that area where the design is going to go if it is detailed. If your design would look OK with a solid color background behind it, then I would suggest you tape off a shape that will accentuate your design. Paint it the same color as the chair vinyl or a color that goes with your design first. This will give you a canvas on the chair to paint on. Sort of a frame for your design.

REPLY50. Maryasays

02/01/2015 at 10:13 pmHello and thank you for this fabulous info!!

Not too unlike the above question but perhaps not similar enough: Im having an artist friend paint a white spare tire cover (a flat vinyl I believe, though I also can buy a more supple pleather material as well though thats probably also vinyl). She asked me to do the research as shes never done this before. It will be watercolor style though not necessarily watercolor. It will have a realistic face painted on it (haha dont ask). I live in a rainy climate so obviously it goes without saying that Id like it to be protected from the weather as much as possible.

Ill be sure to either paint it with the cover already on the tire for accuracy or else use some method so it doesnt change its shape too much if that makes sense. I thought of using alcohol or TSP first to prep it though I could sand a bit first (or both?) and I assume I should paint or spray paint on a gripping primer first, based on your other comments?

I also seem to be seeing to use lighter multiple layers rather than fewer thick layers though this might be tricky when its essentially a portrait (?). What about spraying it with something afterward like a day later or so?

Any specific paints re. any of this that youd recommend or methods?!

Thank you so much!

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02/02/2015 at 6:48 pmHi Marya Painting on vinyl is tricky since it moves and the paint can crack off. Being that is for a car even makes it harder since it will be subject to the elements.

Using the gripper primer may help the paint adhere, but only apply a thin coat of it. Using acrylic crafts paints for your design you may not even need the primer. You could use a spray vinyl primer from Rustoleum to fill in a large area, say a circle. Once this is dry, paint your design on the primed circle. Try to use thin coats of paint.

Once the design is how you like it, it will need to be protected from the elements with a brand name clear spray protective finish. You can spray this on or use a brush-on formula. Rustoleum makes one for vinyl as do a few other brands. You would need one for exterior application that is also for vinyl. Read the labels to find which one says vinyl. When using spray sealer, make sure you wait whatever time it says on the paint label and the sealer before using over your painted design. If you spray over it too early you may cause the paint to wrinkle.

REPLY51. Karina Villarrealsays

02/19/2015 at 1:01 amHi Diane,

Wow you definitely know your stuff!I want to paint my kids toddler beds from IKEA to change things up a bit. Its made out of fiberboard, particleboard with an acrylic paint. Here is the link to the exact beds.http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40274352/Which one of the above processes should I take? The fake wood paneling directions?

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02/26/2015 at 3:05 amHi Karina Yes I would use the directions for painting wood paneling or painting over laminate. The prep is key. Sanding and gripping primer and light coats.

REPLY52. Sallysays

02/19/2015 at 3:56 pmHi Diane

What a wonderful site, so much useful info on here which Ill be referring to for future projects I normally take the short-cut with a lot of my painting, hence why I dont always get the desired results!

Just a quick bit of advice please Im making a modern piece of art for our kitchen using aluminium foils and possibly other types of metal. I would like to paint some of the metals in order to get a stain glass effect or even a thick glossy effect on them without the transparency would be preferable.. is this possible using the type of paint used for glass? If not would you have any idea what I can use for this project?

I look forward to hearing from you.

REPLY53. Sallysays

02/19/2015 at 5:45 pmHi, apologies, I wasnt clear in my previous message!

Im actually still debating whether to go for transparency or not, so would be useful to know what I could use to create either a transparent effect or thick glossy, 3d paint effect if you have any ideas that would be great.

REPLY54. Janellesays

03/08/2015 at 8:40 pmI want to paint the inside of a kitchen sink. I have in mind something similar to the Talevera hand painted bathroom sinks. I was thinking about a plain white porcelain sink using Porcelaine and heat setting it,, but am open to any suggestions. I understand that once complete any surface cleaning would likely need to be light and non-abrasive. Really appreciate your thoughts on this.


03/14/2015 at 5:11 amWhat type is sealer should I be using for furniture that is painted matte black? I want it to stay matte.How do I not get brush stroke marks when sealing?

Ive tried to seal my pieces three different times and its turned out terrible every time.First I tried using a matte finish polyurethane. It dried white and left brush strokes. Second I tried a matte finish spray can sealer. It dried white and left spray marks. This last time I used satin finish polycrylic. It dried clear but turned my furniture shiny and left bad brush strokes. What am I doing wrong?

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03/17/2015 at 2:24 amHi Valerie What type and brand of brush are you using?


03/17/2015 at 6:26 pmFirst I tried a small cheap bristle brush. Last I tried the foam no bristle brushes

REPLY57. JPsays

04/01/2015 at 6:00 amHi Diane,I chanced upon your site and enjoy your step-by-step instructions. They seem simple, though i have yet to apply them. I do have a question though. I have small picture frames (2 x 2.5, 4 x 6) that were hand-crafted out of malachite stone. They have openings in the front of course, where a little photo could be slipped in. However, i would like to have a mirror fit inside instead. That being said, custom-made small mirrors for several frames would be costly. I went to a hardware store today and asked for other alternatives in lieu of a mirror, but something that would have the same/similar effect. The salesperson mentioned Rust-Oleum Mirror Effect spray. I dont know the next step to take. Ideally, id like to spray paint onto an inexpensive material that i could cut by myself with a scissor and then insert into the open window of frame, perhaps glue it inside the frame, so it would be a recessed mirror. Is this possible? If yes, what inexpensive material could i use? (i think paper/cardboard would be too porous for spray paint).

Any other solution comes to mind?

Forgive me for lengthy description, but i felt it best to give you as clear an idea as possible :).

Thank you in advance for your time and input.

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04/08/2015 at 3:05 amHi JP For the mirror paint to work, it needs to be used on glass since you spray it on the back so the front looks and feels like a mirror. For an inexpensive alternative, cut up a sheet of clear acetate. You can buy acetate sheets at the office supply or printing store. You can also cut flat pieces from packaging and the clear lids that Christmas cards come in and many other boxed items. If you look around your home, you may already have something like this sitting in a drawer. Spray the back of the aceate with the mirror paint and then cut to size to fit into your frames.

REPLYSurface Prep Guide for AdhesivesContents

Overview of Surface Preparation Specific Instructions for Individual SubstratesOverview of Surface PreparationAfter selecting the proper adhesive, surface preparation is the most important thing you can do for making a quality bond. Why? Because adhesives adhere to surfaces, and surfaces are often covered with dust, dirt, grease, oil, oxide films, rust inhibitors, and in the case of plastics, mold release agents. All these contaminants, even at a microscopic level, interfere with the adhesive doing its job. In fact,poor surface prep is the #1 reason for bond failure.

Below is a cross section diagram of a typical substrate surface. For the strongest and most durable bonds, the goal is to apply adhesive to the substrate itself. However, often there are layers of surface contaminants that obstruct the surface. The loose layer is all dust, dirt, and other loose particles. Beneath the loose layer lies surface oils and grease. Finally, there is sometimes an embedded layer clinging firmly to the surface such as rust, other oxide films, rust inhibitors, additives that have migrated to the surface such as mold release agents, and surface coatings like paint and sealants. All of the above get in the way of making a strong bond, which is why surface prep is so important.

Cross-section of surface layers on a substrateBelow are our recommendations for prepping surfaces for adhesive bonding. Please note: all manufactured materials vary significantly, even within the same type, as a result of different additives and methods used in the manufacturing process. This is especially true for plastics.

Always test first on samples to determine suitability.

How much surface prep do I need?

As a general rule, the more surface prep you do, the stronger and more durable a bond. Minimal surface prep, such as wiping the area clean, might be fine for simple bonds. For structural strength bonds, more treatment is required.

Here are the types of surface prep you can do, in order of greater effectiveness:

1. Clean the surface2. Degrease3. Abrade4. Surface Alteration1. Clean the surface

At a minimum, you need to have aCLEAN, dry surface on which to apply your adhesive. Remove as many surface contaminants as possible from the bond area, including dust, dirt, and grease. For delicate surfaces, clean off as much as practical, especially any loose particles or surface films. If you use detergents or liquids to clean the surface, make sure the surface is dry and void of trace cleaners before applying adhesive.

2. Degrease

The next step you can do is degreasing the surface. Degreasing is removing all traces of oil and grease (even relatively clean surfaces have oils from fingerprints). If possible, use a solvent such as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), acetone, or isopropyl alcohol*. Wipe or bathe the surface clean. We recommend degreasing whenever possible, because surface oil or grease will get in the way of almost all adhesives and weaken adhesion (with the exception ofmethacrylates).

How to test if your surface is clean and degreased:For many surfaces, especially metals, a simple test to determine if your surface is clean and degreased is to drip a few drops of water on the cleaned area. If the water spreads to cover the area with a continuous film, the bond area is clean. If the water beads, that means the surface needs to be degreased further.Remember: all surfaces need to be dry before bonding. Also, bond the surfaces as soon as practical after cleaning and degreasing to avoid having a recontaminated surface.Note: This test will not work well for certain plastics, because the water might bead, even though the surface isnotclean enough for bonding.

3. Abrade

For the strongest and most durable bonds possible, we also recommend abrading. Abrading a surface gets rid of surface films, mill scale, paint, and oxides and also gives a much better area for the adhesive to "grip." We recommend abrading if practical for the material you are bonding. Use fine grain sand paper (120-200

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