Marker making Marker making modes/methodsmodes/methods

A Marker is a diagram of precise A Marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from a of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread.single spread.

Marker Making is the process of Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified pattern pieces for a specified style ,fabric ,distribution & sizes.style ,fabric ,distribution & sizes.

Markers may be produced in sections or Markers may be produced in sections or blocks or be continuousblocks or be continuous

Blocked or Sectioned Markers contain all of Blocked or Sectioned Markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.two sizes.

Sections may be used separately or joined Sections may be used separately or joined together to form an extended multi size together to form an extended multi size markermarker

Blocked or sectioned markers are easier to Blocked or sectioned markers are easier to visualize, plot & handle but they may not visualize, plot & handle but they may not produce the best utilization.produce the best utilization.

Sectioned markers may be used to adjust Sectioned markers may be used to adjust the volume requirement for various the volume requirement for various sizes( stepped lay)sizes( stepped lay)

Blocking also facilitated the handling of Blocking also facilitated the handling of garment parts in preparation for assembly.garment parts in preparation for assembly.

Sectioned markers are advantageous if there Sectioned markers are advantageous if there is end to end shade variations of the fabricis end to end shade variations of the fabric

Continuous Markers –Continuous Markers –

Splice marks – Splice marks –

Planimeter – a mechanical device that Planimeter – a mechanical device that calculates the surface area as the outline of calculates the surface area as the outline of the pattern is traced.the pattern is traced.

Methods for marker making –Methods for marker making –

Methods for making markers differ in use of –Methods for making markers differ in use of –

1)1) Orientation of pattern pieces &Orientation of pattern pieces &

2) Techniques for development2) Techniques for development

Orientation of pattern pieces – Orientation of pattern pieces –

Markers may be open or closed depending on Markers may be open or closed depending on the form the fabric is presented for the form the fabric is presented for cutting ?cutting ?

1)1) Rolled Fabrics – require full pattern pieces Rolled Fabrics – require full pattern pieces or half pattern pieces. open markers or or half pattern pieces. open markers or closed markers ?closed markers ?

2)2) Tubular Knit Fabrics – open markers or closed Tubular Knit Fabrics – open markers or closed markers ?markers ?

Garment parts must be symmetrical or asymmetrical ?Garment parts must be symmetrical or asymmetrical ?

The orientation of pattern pieces within a marker The orientation of pattern pieces within a marker is called is called marker modemarker mode

The symmetry of pattern pieces & fabric The symmetry of pattern pieces & fabric determines the appropriate marker mode for a determines the appropriate marker mode for a particular style.particular style.

1)1) NEW – NEW –

2)2) NOW – NOW –

3)3) NUD – NUD –

Techniques for development – Techniques for development –

Markers might be planned in many ways-Markers might be planned in many ways-

1)1) Manually produced markers using full size Manually produced markers using full size & miniaturized pattern pieces( reduced to & miniaturized pattern pieces( reduced to 1/51/5thth scale) scale)

2)2) Computer developed markersComputer developed markers

Manual marker making - how to get multiple Manual marker making - how to get multiple copies –copies –

1)1) Carbon duplicating Carbon duplicating

2)2) Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon systemsystem

3)3) Diazo photographic methodDiazo photographic method

Computerized Marker Planning – Computerized Marker Planning –

Digitizing or scanning full size patternsDigitizing or scanning full size patterns

Digitizer , mouse, key boardDigitizer , mouse, key board

It talks about constraints too ?It talks about constraints too ?

The nature of fabric packages – The nature of fabric packages –

They vary in length , width .They vary in length , width .

It depends on the fabric & the method of It depends on the fabric & the method of spreading spreading

1)1) Open Fabric – rolledOpen Fabric – rolled

2)2) Tubular knitted fabric – rolled ( where is it Tubular knitted fabric – rolled ( where is it used? )used? )

3) Folded Fabric – rolled 3) Folded Fabric – rolled

this form is traditional with woolen or woolen this form is traditional with woolen or woolen mixture fabrics mixture fabrics

not suitable for spreading by machine not suitable for spreading by machine

lesser width allows spreading manually by one lesser width allows spreading manually by one spreader on narrower tablesspreader on narrower tables

the fabric is rolled onto a disposable , flat board the fabric is rolled onto a disposable , flat board approximately 1 cm thick.approximately 1 cm thick.

Velvet ?Velvet ?

ScramblingScrambling

The mixing of sizes in a marker is termed as The mixing of sizes in a marker is termed as scrambling. Up to a point, the more sizes that are scrambling. Up to a point, the more sizes that are included in a marker, the greater the scope for included in a marker, the greater the scope for fabric savingsfabric savings