mansions of madness _ image _ boardgamegeek

Thats an impressive setup, certainly puts mine to shame!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox)Painting Tutorial

Hi Gamers, I have created this guide to aid you in bringing your Mansions Of Madness miniatures(mini/s from now on) to life, the techniques I use are very straight forward and can be carried out bycomplete novices, you may have to obtain certain items to aid you on your quest but some you willfind around the home.I have aimed this guide at the gamer who thinks he can't paint.

OK, Lets Start!

As you follow my guide if there are items you do not have use something similar, nothing is set instone, if you dont have masking tape you can use blue-tack, double sided etc so dont be afraid touse your own ingenuity.If you decide to have a go and I really hope you do anything you have to purchase will always bethere for your next project.

Step 1 Preparing your minis

Materials;Fine Abrasive PaperModelling Knife (you can get away without using this)Small File ( you can also get away without using this)

OK using the modelling knife (Young ones please do this supervised or get help,take great care)use

a scraping motion, as you would peel a potato Do Not Cut! remove any unsightly mould linesthen smooth over with the fine paper, I use a file for tight spots. You don't have to get every little line, just go for the really obvious ones.

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Posted Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:48 pm

I have used some plastic bases to hold my minis in place; I just pushed the peg of the mini into theslots.

Step 2 Undercoating

Materials;White Spray PrimerGlove (for protection)Masking TapeWood RailDouble Sided Tape

I wrap masking tape (sticky side up) around a wooden rail.

I then simply push my minis onto the tape leaving a small space between each one.

Then out side you go Do Not spray indoors!

I put on a rubber glove to minimize getting paint all over my hands Follow the instructions on the spray can.Hold around 12"away from your minis. Spray using a sweeping motion back and forth along the lineof your minis (about the speed as if you were passing a card to someone) try to spray from everyangle you can even turn them upside-down, you are aiming to build up 3-4 light coats rather than 1heavy coat.Allow to dry a little between each coat, usually around 2-3 minutes.When done allow to completely dry.

Using double sided tape I stick all the minis to corks, this makes painting so much easier as you holdthe cork not the mini.

Step 3 Lets Paint!

Materials;Fine + Medium + Large size Paint Brushes (See image below)

Mixing Pallet/Tile. (I have used the same 4 white ceramic tiles for over 15 years, they clean up likenew every time)Water Container. (Tip,use a septate container for metallic paints)Paint selection. (I use Games Workshop colours, just primary's will suffice if on a limited budget,secondary s help + Black + White + Silver. (Seek out a basic colour wheel if just using a limited palletthis will be a great help to you).Kitchen Towel.

Music. I prefer a random shuffle of extreme Metal

I took a look at the pre-painted Arkham minis to help with the colour scheme, I just noted themdown on paper, the character cards were at hand also. Don't try to copy exactly the colours you seeas using the dip method darkens everything, you have to paint roughly 40% lighter than the colour

you want to end up with. You will get the hang of it have confidence

OK, pick a colour, once you have mixed your chosen colour do all the minis in turn that require thatshade, in my example flesh tone (above image)Add water (50%) to paint (50% )until it flows like Hmmmmmm......lets say milk, just let it flow ontoyour mini with the tip of your brush, cover evenly as you can, as the paint dries it will naturally godarker in the creases and recesses and lighter on the raised areas, this is what you want. If you end up with flat heavy colour add more water to your paint next time.

Work your way through your minis with each color, take your time, I tend to do the monsters in onebatch and characters in another but you can go right through the whole lot with your chosen color.Apply your paint just the same for every color a simple 50/50 wash as before.I am not going to show every stage for every color instead give you these images to aid you. your works of art will soon start to take shape.

Here I will show you exactly how I painted the Shoggoth, you are free to use your own choice ofcolour. I have added some dry-brushing (DB from now on) over our usual colour wash.

First a quick Dry Brush lesson.Using a large brush dip in to your colour

Roll the brush handle round in your fingers on some kitchen towel to spread paint over the bristles.

Next wipe the paint off your brush until no heavy streaks show.

Simply brush over your mini as if you were dusting it quite heavily.I have used black on some kitchen towel so you can see just how much colour still comes off, this iswhat will happen when applied to your miniAs you get the hang of it you can leave more paint on your brush without leaving streaks on yourmini.

Shoggoth

Colour wash with (Hormagaunt Purple),do the whole mini.(Image A)As you may have noticed I quite often paint over areas of the mini which will eventually be adifferent colour than the final colour, this saves a lot of time, the rule is generally paint large areasfirst and add the smaller areasdetails over the top, at times it is easier to just go back with a littlewhite paint than try to paint round a particularly fiddly bit.DB the next colour (Ultramarines blue) over the whole mini.Next DB(scorpion Green)onto the legs, tentacles, head and down the middle of the back, finally DBiyandern darksun yellow to the ends of the tentacles (Image B)

A B

C D

Paint all the eyes white (Image C) ( dont miss the three under his head, as I nearly did) .

Add black for the pupils, I then mixed Red ink with a tiny amount of green ink to darken. Flood thismix onto the eyes and particularly round the sockets this may take 2-3 washes until you are happy,(Image D)

Stage 4 Dipping

Materials;Wood Stain/Varnish EDIT Army Painter Dark Tone Clear Matt Varnish EDIT Army Painter Anti Shine Flat Matt Spraylarge brush (shown below)Kitchen Towel

When you are happy with all your master pieces its time to apply the wood stain/varnish, I use aPolyurethane dark oak varnish, there are some very good water based varnishes you can use, its acase of looking what you can obtain in your area, I would recommend going for a dark one ratherthan some of the red/yellow shades.

Although the method is called dipping I don't actually like to submerge my minis into the varnish Iprefer to brush it on. Once applied (don't be afraid to really blob it on) simply wipe your brush onsome kitchen towel then brush over any large runs/puddles the varnish will still creep into thetextures leaving a nice smooth finish.Go right through and do all your minis.Allow to dry completely.Paint the character bases your chosen color (I like black) almost straight from the pot add just a littlewater.

I have then given all minis except the Shoggoths and Chthonians (wet + slimy looking) a coat ofmatt water based acrylic varnish to take away the high gloss shine, you may like this shine but Iprefer a duller finishAllow to dry once again, then glue your minis to your game bases.

Congratulations! if you made it this far you have finished!

I would love to see your work if you decide to have a go, it really is very easy.Work through my guide one stage at a time and you will have minis that look similar to these in areasonable amount of time.

You can paint minis from any game just using this guide.I painted these (below) exactly the same way.

Any comments would be greatly received ( are nice to) as this is my very first tutorial.

Im here to help so mail me if you get stuck

Enjoy Your Painting

Hi, Since Putting this guide together I have been getting to grips with the Army Painter Quick Shadedark tone And Matt anti shine spray, If your budget will allow the expense I can highly recommendthem both. I have been very impressed with the results so far as the dark tone does not dull the colours asmuch and flows over the mini better, as for the flat matt spray, incredible!

Sebastian Grawan

(rashktah) Nice thread, I am interested in your works, so I'll subscribe it for now.

Edit: great minis!!!!

Oscar Otero

(ooh_2003)GREAT job!!!buen trabajo!!

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Posted Sat Mar 12, 2011 12:51 am

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Edited Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:55 pm

Posted Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:54 pm

Please, post the end of document.Adios!

Damien Seb.

leoskyangel

(dtroy_de_rapcore)

This is my 1st time subscribing to a picture, now that's something. Anyway, you're doing a hugefavour sharing all these with us. Thanks!

Gary S.

(Pheasant Plucker)Great stuff Simon. Many thanks for posting.

They look great and your explanation was clear. So I'm intrigued enough to ask you a probablydifficult/awkward question...

If I were to start from nothing and buy the paints, tools, bits and pieces, then would you care to puteven a ballpark figure on the cost?

Would be much appreciated if you could (or wanted too!).

Cheers.

jimmy chan

(citilogic)Great Job!!!!

David Y

(d bro)Fantastic.Makes me want to give painting a go.Thanks for posting this.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Pheasant Plucker wrote:

Great stuff Simon. Many thanks for posting.

They look great and your explanation was clear. So I'm intrigued enough to ask you a probably

difficult/awkward question...

If I were to start from nothing and buy the paints, tools, bits and pieces, then would you care to put even a

ballpark figure on the cost?

Would be much appreciated if you could (or wanted too!).

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Posted Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:19 am

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Posted Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:06 pm

Cheers.

Thank-you for your interest, OK good question and a tricky one as we are in different parts of

theworld country where the cost of living can vary greatly.Is not that much different. I understand we all have a budget to work to and it will depend on what stores you have near by.

To buy all the materials from my tutorial here in the UK excluding paint would be around 20 andthis would give me multiples of many of the items and some would last years and years (some of mycorks are now over 20 years old) basically once you stand the initial outlay you are set for a verylong time.

Here in the UK we have many Pound Shops where everything in store is just 1 so for example 1pack of 5 rolls of masking Tape for just 1, 1 pack of 15 corks 1 etc, I could go into one of thesestores and come out with everything I need and more besides. Wilkinson's (Wilco's) is where I getmy wood stain/varnish from here in the UK.

As I mentioned I use Games Workshop Paints this is where the wallet is hit the hardest forbeginners but there are many acrylic paints on the market and you may find some to suit your needsand budget. Keep in mind you will actually use very little paint as my technique involves a 50/50water to paint mix some of my paints are ancient, just make sure you clean the lids out regularly andthey will last a very long time.Start small with a few basic colours then just add them as you need them again it all depends onyour budget, the option of clubbing together with fellow gamers will spread the cost.I hope this gives you the answer you are looking for, what I can guarantee is once you dip your first

mini and see the results before your eyes you will be hooked!

Happy Painting

Simon.

Gary S.

(Pheasant Plucker) Cheers Simon - and don't worry we're not as far away as you may think

The paints seem to be around 2 GBP each. so if I start with a few it looks do-able.

Thanks!

Craig Rose

(Tsugo)Thanks for the tutorial. It was just the kick in the pants I needed to break out my old set of paintsand get started. Your minis look fantastic.

Teik Chooi Oh

(chooi)Great job Simon, and I am speaking from having had the opportunity to handle and look at them upclose in real life!

You definitely should hire your services out to idiots like me who like their mini painted but lack thetime and most importantly, the skill!

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4 Posted Tue Mar 15, 2011 1:30 am

Craig Stewart

(RevGiark)Much thanks for this. I've never been able to quite get the hang of washes before, but your drybrush explanation gives me a good idea of how to improve my work.

Someone should sticky this as the beginners guide to painting or something.

The Gamers' Table

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) RevGiark wrote:

Much thanks for this. I've never been able to quite get the hang of washes before, but your dry brush

explanation gives me a good idea of how to improve my work.


The Gamers' Table

Hi Craig thank-you, Ive seen your great video's, I really wish I had the know how to do a video, Itwould be so much easier to show my technique in motion, you would master the wash then I amsure.

Sticky? Hmmmm......I have no Idea how to sticky this, or how to get maximum exposure for my guide,it would be nice if every gamer thinking about having a go at painting could see this, or even knowwhere to find it.

Good Gaming

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Tsugo wrote:

Thanks for the tutorial. It was just the kick in the pants I needed to break out my old set of paints and get

started. Your minis look fantastic.

Thats the spirit blow out the cobwebs........ Remember I would like to see them.

Danni Durante

(tikitack)You, good sir, are fantastic! Thanks for sharing... thanks for instilling some motivation. Kudos to you.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Pheasant Plucker wrote:

Cheers Simon - and don't worry we're not as far away as you may think

The paints seem to be around 2 GBP each. so if I start with a few it looks do-able.

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Thanks!

Oh! Ahem! I just noticed, how embarrassing Ha! when I glanced at your flag below your geekname and didnt see the union jack I just asumed you where over seas, What can I say " I dont get

out much .

You are right we are not that far away, just me thats on another planet

You have a Wilkinson's in Gloucestershire, you will find almost everything there, they have thevarnish I use, pictured in the painting guide.

Good Luck.

Bob Roberts

(badinfo)From a long time painter, nicely done sir.

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha) RevGiark wrote:

Much thanks for this. I've never been able to quite get the hang of washes before, but your dry brush

explanation gives me a good idea of how to improve my work.


The Gamers' Table

If you add a tiny drop of washing up liquid or something similar to your ink/wash it breaks thesurface tension of the water and allows it to flow much better and you don't get that 'watermark'look. Also, if you are drybrushing try using a glaze (basically like a wash except watered down evenmore) afterwards. It softens the edges and makes it look a lot nicer.

Oh, and don't forget that most paints still need watering down to some extent before applying them.Again, it's about getting the paint to flow properly, makes the job a lot easier. It's a mistake I made

for ages. Still learning, my biggest obstacle is patience.

Greg CZ

(leaxe)Miniature Painters Guild

join...

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) leaxe wrote:

Miniature Painters Guild

join...

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Posted Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:27 am

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Thank-you for this I have posted to the Guild, Nice!

Bruce Moffatt

(Scrat)Simon, well done on the tutorial. Easy to understand and takes all the intimidation out of trying yourhand at painting. My compliments to you Sir. Excellent paintwork on your miniatures too. I am inawe!

Nyogtha wrote:

If you add a tiny drop of washing up liquid or something similar to your ink/wash it breaks the surface

tension of the water and allows it to flow much better and you don't get that 'watermark' look. Also, if you

are drybrushing try using a glaze (basically like a wash except watered down even more) afterwards. It

softens the edges and makes it look a lot nicer.

Oh, and don't forget that most paints still need watering down to some extent before applying them.

Again, it's about getting the paint to flow properly, makes the job a lot easier. It's a mistake I made for

ages. Still learning, my biggest obstacle is patience.

Both really important tips Phil! I had so much trouble with brushing Tamiya paints until I realised thedamn things were drying on the brush before I got it to the miniature. Now I do a colour in batchesand have a fresh pot of water and a mixing palette before I start. Every time I go back to the paint Idip just the tip of the brush in CLEAN water. It picks up some of the paint during the batch job, thenI clean it out straight after finishing. If I end up with too thin a mix, I use the palette as a 'buffer' ofpaint and water to equalize the mix. Sounds complicated, but it works! GW paints are less prone tothe problem, but it still happens after a while.

Breaking surface tension on washes is a wicked trick too. It takes all the effort out of working thecolour into the right place. I believe the new range of GW washes are pre-done as using them is adream compared to the older range.

The other old school painters trick is to look after your brushes. Never soak your brush with paint.When you are finished painting, clean your brushes in clean water and reshape the bristles to apoint by gently turning the brush as you dry it on a tissue or paper towel. Sable brushes will costmore but will keep their shape better and last longer than synthetic bristles. There a few good dealson paint and brushes on eBay if you are patient.

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)I've mainly been using Army Painter paints, partly because they come in those handy dropper bottlesand partly because I find the dilution of the paint to be better (of course this may mean the paintdoesn't go as far). Although the GW is good for specific colours, as are some other brands.

In fact I think that is a valid point to be made, the variety of different brands of paint available. Thatin itself can be confusing and daunting. I don't know which are the best, if any. I keep tryingdifferent ones as I run out of stuff. I plan to get a set of Vajello (sp?) paints next time.

Also, something I thought of that seems a common mistake (perhaps mistake isn't quite the rightword, but anyway). When applying a colour you don't have try and cover an area with just one coat,in fact you tend to get a better result if you build it up over two or three coats. Again this is anotherthing which comes down to paint consistency. It should be thin, almost like milk (which is how awash was first described to me, but since discovered that is too thick for a wash, although not bymuch). I've been taking some photos in stages of the cultists I've been doing that might show whatI mean.

Finally, I have been meaning to post a link to this painter's You Tube site. She is excellent ineveryway. She has tons of instructional videos teaching theory as well as techniques. Check it outyou won't be dissapointed. Poor lass has a nasty cough though.

http://www.youtube.com/user/GirlPainting

J Daniels

(devilsplaything)Thanks very much for providing this excellent post. I really found your step by step tutorial helpfulpainting the Shaggoths. I was wondering if you would be willing to share what paint colors you usedand how you applied the layers to some of the other Monsters and Investigators. I don't want to

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have great looking Shaggoth's and shoddy looking Chthonians. :-)

Gesine Stanienda

(Kallisto)First of: this is a gret thread.Secondly: I LOVE your minis.Thirdly: I have one question. You use the DB method. Now, I have heard about and read about it,but what I never quite understood is why you would use it instead of applying the wet paint. Since Ihave started painting minis myself, I would love to know why. Perhaps you could explain?Cheers!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Kallisto wrote:

First of: this is a gret thread.

Secondly: I LOVE your minis.

Thirdly: I have one question. You use the DB method. Now, I have heard about and read about it, but what

I never quite understood is why you would use it instead of applying the wet paint. Since I have started

painting minis myself, I would love to know why. Perhaps you could explain?

Cheers!

Hi, I will have a go for you.The best way to see first hand at what dry brushing is all about is to paint an old test mini black,now dry-brush it white,you will notice the base colour is still visible in all the shaded areas givingyour mini depth this is what I did the very first time I discovered the method and it gave me theanswers to your very same question, also it is a very quick way of painting + adding colour variationover a large surface.

Take a look at my Shoggoth up close (click image and go to large image) blue has been dry-brushedover the purple wash base colour but not covered it completely, some of the purple still showsthrough, then again in fewer areas with green over the blue, again some of the purple + blue showsthrough, if you tried this with washes it just would not give you this nice variation of colours withoutmany hours off careful blending.

Another example would be Mmmmmm......lets say you just want your Shoggoths green, if you startwith a dark green base colour ( paint the whole mini) this will serve as the dark shade, now using alighter shade of the green heavily dry-brush over the base colour.lighten the colour again now dry-brush sparingly, then lighten further, apply to the top most areas oftexture (e.g. only do the large muscles in the legs,not all the leg, If you do all areas of the mini youwill just end up with a light coloured Shoggoth with no noticeable areas of artificial light and very

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little form). The more stages you add to the highlights the smoother the transition from dark to lightwill be.

Dry-brushing allows you to create artificial light across the textures of the mini, or in the Shoggothcase colour variation.For the last highlight dry-brush a very light green maybe with a little yellow added to the absolutetop most areas where you want light to sparkle, it is important not to over do this!

I hope my explanation has shed some light on the method for you, I do find it actually quite difficultto get across in words.

Take a look at this link I think it gets across the basic idea very well.(I hope to do a video myself inthe future)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWl8-cozI5w

Enjoy your painting

Gesine Stanienda

(Kallisto)Thanks, this is so cool! I will get some of my doublets (I have identical minis for Descent andRunebound) and will try this! Thanks for taking the time to answer my question, I really, reallyappreciate it.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) devilsplaything wrote:

Thanks very much for providing this excellent post. I really found your step by step tutorial helpful painting

the Shaggoths. I was wondering if you would be willing to share what paint colors you used and how you

applied the layers to some of the other Monsters and Investigators. I don't want to have great looking

Shaggoth's and shoddy looking Chthonians. :-)

There are no multiple layers of paint used ( except shoggoth),paint only 1 wash of paint for eachcolour you apply, if you apply more coats you loose your highlights and end up with flat colour,

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Take a look at the professors jacket (he is finished prior to dipping) see how there are noticeablelight patches on the top of the folds, and in the creases dark patches this is because the singlewash of paint settles into the recesses and goes thin on the high places.He only took around 10- 15 minutes to paint, it really is a fast method!

The shoggoths where shown sepporately because they required multiple colours on the same largesurface.My tutorial shows you how to get miniatures to the table quickly with basic but effective methods.

If you have more time on your hands you can start individually shading and hi-lighting but this is notthe way for non painters wanting to just get on with their game in colour.( I did add a little blue to

my hounds + pink hi-light to my purple Chthonians)

Of course there are methods for producing much better results but these take time and are not avery friendly entry point into painting.

I plan to give a colour breakdown under my posted character minis soon.

Thank-you for your interest.

Funky Fran

(Funky Fran)Great work Simon and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longer just a BGG girlfriend, but a BGG in my

own right!

Teik Chooi Oh

(chooi) Funky Fran wrote:

Great work Simon and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longer just a BGG girlfriend, but a BGG in my own

right!

wow, I am so proud!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) chooi wrote:

Funky Fran wrote:

Great work Simon and Shaz. It's now official. I am no longer just a BGG girlfriend, but a BGG in my

own right!

wow, I am so proud!

Chooi! you are a lucky lucky man.

Welcome to our world Fran

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2 Posted Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:53 am

J Daniels

(devilsplaything)What color mix did you use to get the Blue-ish trim on the cultist robes?Also, what mix did you use for the blue highlights on the Hound of Tindalos?

Simon Dunkley


What color mix did you use to get the Blue-ish trim on the cultist robes?

Also, what mix did you use for the blue highlights on the Hound of Tindalos?

Hi, Cultist Robes Trim = Hawk TurquoiseHounds = Enchanted blue + White ( just to lighten a little)By Games Workshop

Happy to help.

alfadir

(Alfadir) Ridiculously good!!

Fern Sanzch

(nknoa) Awesome!!!! Simon

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) nknoa wrote:

Awesome!!!! Simon

Thank-you, Welcome to Board Game Geek "a truly amazing place!"

Patrick Draad

(Patrickspel)Hi Simon !

Thank you so much for these tutorials, I have bought all the stuff to go paint on my own. I havenever done such a thing, so your help is greatly appreciated !

You really inspire people to get a go on painting, as I never thought I could do it, this motivated meto give it a go. I will send you the photo's when they are done. In the meantime, any tips in

everything is much appreciated !

Grtz Patrick(spel)

PS. One question about the varnish though.... I cannot seem to find the right thing. Everytime I askabout dark varnish they only give me " uncoloured" varnish. It should be some other name in Dutch Iguess. Which is better, varnish that holds solvent or water based ? Thanks for the answer !

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)It might be wood stain you have to ask for, or you could always try Quickshade from Army Painter,go for the mid-shade one. It is specifically designed for dipping and it's easier to get better results.

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I've tried both ways and after using Quickshade I would never go back to using just normal varnish,too hit and miss IMHO.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Patrickspel wrote:

Hi Simon !

Thank you so much for these tutorials, I have bought all the stuff to go paint on my own. I have never

done such a thing, so your help is greatly appreciated !

You really inspire people to get a go on painting, as I never thought I could do it, this motivated me to

give it a go. I will send you the photo's when they are done. In the meantime, any tips in everything is

much appreciated !

Grtz Patrick(spel)

PS. One question about the varnish though.... I cannot seem to find the right thing. Everytime I ask about

dark varnish they only give me " uncoloured" varnish. It should be some other name in Dutch I guess.

Which is better, varnish that holds solvent or water based ? Thanks for the answer !

Great stuff! take your time and you will be OK, speed comes with experienceI'm here if you are unsure about anything.

Regarding the wood stain/varnish I use a solvent based Dark Oak, it colours and varnishes all in onecoat, I have found the water based equivalent colour very satisfactory after testing.

I don't really know what is available in the hardware stores in different parts of the world, I don'twant you to be worried about ruining your paintings so..............Phils post could be your life line, Ihave taken a look and it does look the business although a little expensive, I pay under 3.00 pettin, Army Painter is 15-20 but it will do a huge amount of minis. I think I will give it a try it myself.

Nyogtha wrote:

It might be wood stain you have to ask for, or you could always try Quickshade from Army Painter, go for

the mid-shade one. It is specifically designed for dipping and it's easier to get better results. I've tried

both ways and after using Quickshade I would never go back to using just normal varnish, too hit and miss

IMHO.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/

One of the joys of painting is you never stop learning, sharing tips etc is all part of what makes itgreat, Thanks Phil.

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)No worries. It is expensive, but worth it I think. Also you can combine the three different shades toget varying shades from the dipping, which is nice, although a little tricker.

J Daniels

(devilsplaything)Does anyone know if Quickshade from Army Painter is available in Canada?

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Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Nyogtha wrote:

No worries. It is expensive, but worth it I think. Also you can combine the three different shades to get

varying shades from the dipping, which is nice, although a little tricker.

I have ordered a tin of strong shade from eBay, I will use it on a couple of test minis before using iton my next project, currently I have my Last Night On Earth minis all ready for the spray primer so Iwill post some shots when they are done.

Thanks again Phil

Simon Dunkley


Does anyone know if Quickshade from Army Painter is available in Canada?

Have you tried good old eBay? I have just picked up a tin.

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha) devilsplaything wrote:

Does anyone know if Quickshade from Army Painter is available in Canada?

Pretty sure Army Painter products are available your side of the pond.

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Hi all, I'm fairly new to BGG as a member. GREAT tutorial Simon!!! I have been painting for quite afew years although not regularly and not always minis (ceramics, crafts, etc). I and my family juststarted getting back into painting minis about a month ago. In particular, The Dystopian ships fromSpartan Games. Any comments about painting ships or vehicles? We are using GW paints, the whitetopped ones which you have many of in your studio. We do have the washes and glazes also. Anytips would be greatly appreciated. Again, thanks Simon and all who posted tips. Cheers!

PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since myDystopian ships are old iron sides. Thanx!

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha) history_geek wrote:

PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since my Dystopian ships

are old iron sides. Thanx!

Just recently came across those and wondered about use and how they would look. Not foundanythig like any reviews or tutorials with them up to now. Be most interested if you find anythingyourself.

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Simon Dunkley

(rhox) history_geek wrote:

Hi all, I'm fairly new to BGG as a member. GREAT tutorial Simon!!! I have been painting for quite a few

years although not regularly and not always minis (ceramics, crafts, etc). I and my family just started

getting back into painting minis about a month ago. In particular, The Dystopian ships from Spartan

Games. Any comments about painting ships or vehicles? We are using GW paints, the white topped ones

which you have many of in your studio. We do have the washes and glazes also. Any tips would be greatly

appreciated. Again, thanks Simon and all who posted tips.

Cheers!

PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since my Dystopian ships

are old iron sides. Thanx!

Hi joni, I have a small range of weathering powders which I have only used on large scale models,all the weathering I have ever done on game minis has been achieved with paint, ink wash, drybrushing etc, sorry I am not much of an expert in this area.

Regarding your ships, if I was to paint them for the game table I would use a base colour to suit themini then bring out the detail with dry-brushing lighter tones over the top, depending on the miniadd some colour washes where required, finally paint in all the small detail.

Not having painted many ships myself I think I would probably try a couple of different styles to seewhich one looks the best, eg try as described in my tutorial, light colour wash over a gray undercoator bold flat colour maybe, sorry I cant be more specific I would experiment a little.

I painted the ships below by dry-brushing over the base colour then applying colour washes to thetowers, finish by painting in the detail. I hope this helps, but as I mentioned I'm no expert. Good

Luck!

(awakeneddragon) This is precisely why BGG needs "stickies".

One of the best tutorials I've ever seen!

Patrick Draad

(Patrickspel)Hi Simon,.

I've bought some stainer, also a dark oak one. When I opened the pot, the stuff inside looked verybrown and sticky. When I look at your pot, the structure of the varnish is smooth.

I applied it on Jenny and she really looked nasty when I put the stuff on, maybe I used the wrongthing or didn't use enough (you wrote really blob it in, I just didn't I guess, it left really ugly brownstains.) The flesh look on the face, arms and legs did get another darker colour when I applied it, isthat normal ?

I immediately wiped it and painted the whole thing again. It now is to it's restored state beforeapllying. Still I like your shiny look on the figures and really want it too, got any more tips how to ?Maybe with pictures how you dot it ?

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Posted Fri Apr 1, 2011 9:36 am

Thanks in advance,

Patrickspel

Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death)Hi Patrickspel,

I have exactly the same problem. After applying Army Painter quick shade (strong), Jenny looks like

she has an accident with a perma-tan bottle or just finished a bout of mud wrestling

All the other investigators however look awesome (I'll send in some picks after I have applied themat varnish).

I was wondering if I could perhaps touch up the flesh colours after the quick shade varnish dries.Anyone know if this is possible?

Anyway thanks for the guide Simon I really enjoyed painting those little suckers. Now for the

monsters

Pauly

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)Be sure to watch the tutorial videos on the Army Painter website. It is not just a case of putting theQuickshade or stain on, you have to remove the excess by shaking it off quite vigoursly otherwiseyou will end up with just a dark messy mini.

www.thearmypainter.com/

Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death)@Phil Mawson.

I applied with a brush and removed the excess but this still left the Jenny model with brown streaks.To be honest Simon's figure does too. I hear you can paint over the Quickshade to give additionalhighlights. So I am gonna give that a shot. The others look OK as they are though.

Pauly

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)Applying the Quickshade with a brush is not the best way to do it. You would only brush it on if themodel is too big to dip in the tin. Dip the mini right in the tin, don't be shy. Then get hold of the baseof the mini with something like some pliers to give a solid grip and swing and flick the mini to removeall the excess quickshade.

Did you watch the video? It is highly recommended on how to use the Quickshade properlyotherwise you will end up with that horrible streaky, 'oops I fell asleep in a tanning booth' look.

If you still need more help with using it I suggest this Quickshade tutorial from the GirlPainting, infact check out the rest of her video tutorials, some of the best you will find IMHO:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXKD1zHpE7w

I'll find some images of stuff done with Quickshade so you can see how it should look.

Phil Mawson

(Nyogtha)Here are a couple of pics of stuff from Army Painter using Quickshade. There is an extensive galleryon their website too showing various techniques with a variety of minis.

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Against all logic I managed to get the above video posted to the MoM videos section, so if you don'twant to leave the Geek you can watch it right here:

http://boardgamegeek.com/video/6230/mansions-of-madness/how-...

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Patrickspel wrote:

Hi Simon,.

I've bought some stainer, also a dark oak one. When I opened the pot, the stuff inside looked very brown

and sticky. When I look at your pot, the structure of the varnish is smooth.

I applied it on Jenny and she really looked nasty when I put the stuff on, maybe I used the wrong thing or

didn't use enough (you wrote really blob it in, I just didn't I guess, it left really ugly brown stains.) The

flesh look on the face, arms and legs did get another darker colour when I applied it, is that normal ?

I immediately wiped it and painted the whole thing again. It now is to it's restored state before apllying.

Still I like your shiny look on the figures and really want it too, got any more tips how to ? Maybe with

pictures how you dot it ?

Thanks in advance,

Patrickspel

Hi, My guess is the varnish formula may be different and so behaves differently, my varnish is alsoquite dark and sticky but runs nice once applied to the mini, I would advise you to do a test mini firstany old thing will do.I am awaiting delivery of the army Painter Quickshade I will post some pictures of the whole processwith a test mini so keep checking. I think It will be much easier to give advice on dipping if I can use a ready available product.

As you mentioned I do blob the varnish on to cover the mini, I then wipe my brush on kitchen towel(as mentioned) then remove all the excess,I will do this until there are no heavy patches, thevarnish continues to run for about 5 minutes so keep your eye on each mini as you coat the next.

Flesh areas are tricky as there is very little texture for the varnish to bring out and streaks andpatches are common, remove as much of the varnish as you can once it has been applied.

I hope you are happy with your minis and you found my guide helpfull, I will continue to tweak thetutorial until any major problems are ironed out, Phil is also doing a great job offering his advice.

Dont forget I would like to see some photos.

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Simon.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Eagle Ov Death wrote:

Hi Patrickspel,

I have exactly the same problem. After applying Army Painter quick shade (strong), Jenny looks like she

has an accident with a perma-tan bottle or just finished a bout of mud wrestling

All the other investigators however look awesome (I'll send in some picks after I have applied the mat

varnish).

I was wondering if I could perhaps touch up the flesh colours after the quick shade varnish dries. Anyone

know if this is possible?

Anyway thanks for the guide Simon I really enjoyed painting those little suckers. Now for the monsters

Pauly

You followed my guide and now they look awesome........Nice!

you made my day.

Happy Painting.

Simon.

Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death)Hi Simon,

Once again, thanks for the guide.

These are the first minis I have painted in 20 years!!

What do you think? (the pictures don't do them justice).

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Simon Dunkley


Hi Simon,

Once again, thanks for the guide.

These are the first minis I have painted in 20 years!!

What do you think? (the pictures don't do them justice).

Wow! You have been away from painting almost as long as I have been painting

I think you have made a great job every credit to you, nice paint style.They will really enhance your game and I understand, photos never look as good as the real thing,Monsters next I take it?

Enjoy your painting

Keep up the good work!

Simon.

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Nice Minis! Hope my ships turn out half as good as you all's figures!

Mack Miller

(history_geek)

Hi joni, I have a small range of weathering powders which I have only used on large scale models, all the

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Posted Tue Apr 5, 2011 4:56 am

weathering I have ever done on game minis has been achieved with paint, ink wash, dry brushing etc,

sorry I am not much of an expert in this area.

Regarding your ships, if I was to paint them for the game table I would use a base colour to suit the mini

then bring out the detail with dry-brushing lighter tones over the top, depending on the mini add some

colour washes where required, finally paint in all the small detail.

Not having painted many ships myself I think I would probably try a couple of different styles to see

which one looks the best, eg try as described in my tutorial, light colour wash over a gray undercoat or

bold flat colour maybe, sorry I cant be more specific I would experiment a little.

I painted the ships below by dry-brushing over the base colour then applying colour washes to the towers,

finish by painting in the detail. I hope this helps, but as I mentioned I'm no expert. Good Luck!

[ImageID=957543 inline wrote:

Thanks for the advice Simon. Your ships are awesome! I am hoping to get started on my ships thisweek. I think I'm going to base them grey then use copper detailing on the boilers and such. Will

keep you updated on progress and hopefully pics!

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Nyogtha wrote:

history_geek wrote:

PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since my

Dystopian ships are old iron sides. Thanx!

Just recently came across those and wondered about use and how they would look. Not found anythig like

any reviews or tutorials with them up to now. Be most interested if you find anything yourself.

I would like to attempt to use a rust weathering pigment as my ships are the "old ironsides". Ihaven't had time to search for it yet to buy but will let you know once I get it. I'll let you know how itlooks, before and after pics and how I did it. I did find a tutorial on UTube and it seems it is a powderthat you put on where you want the rust "look" then you set it with rubbing alcohol (don't know it it

would be called the same on your side of the pond ). Doesn't seem too hard and effect was reallycool. Here is the link to the video I watched:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cLTEXzfyFE

Its titled "Hammer40k How to Paint Weathering Pigments "Rust Effect"

Hope this helps some. I will let you know if I find anything else.

J.

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Nyogtha wrote:

history_geek wrote:

PS Have you used any of the weathering pigments? Just wondering how they work since my

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Dystopian ships are old iron sides. Thanx!

Just recently came across those and wondered about use and how they would look. Not found anythig like

any reviews or tutorials with them up to now. Be most interested if you find anything yourself.

Thought you would like to know I started a new thread in the mini painting guild forum onweathering pigments. I've been researching and found some good information. Check it out. Cheers!

Criss Myers

(Bukira) Nice work simon, they look great in real life

Paul C


Finally got round to painting those pesky monsters.

What do you think? Still unsure about the gloss varnish on the monsters but other than that I ampretty happy with them. Also bought some plano boxes to store them in too, so they are not floatingaround the box.

All I need to do now is persuade the wife to play it with me more often.

Any recommendations for other boardgames with painting potential? Do not want to see all thatpaint going to waste!

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Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death)And here are the rest...

Simon Dunkley


Hi Simon,

Finally got round to painting those pesky monsters.

What do you think? Still unsure about the gloss varnish on the monsters but other than that I am pretty

happy with them. Also bought some plano boxes to store them in too, so they are not floating around the

box.

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Posted Tue May 3, 2011 2:49 pm

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Posted Tue May 3, 2011 3:37 pm

All I need to do now is persuade the wife to play it with me more often.

Any recommendations for other boardgames with painting potential? Do not want to see all that paint

going to waste!

Hi, very nice work, time well spent and nice colour choice.I hope you found my guide helpful,(Any comments good or bad are all greatly received here or to myGeek mail) your game must look so much better now in full colour.

As for other games with painting potential, Mmmm.... well, anything with minis in it that you like to

play ( Sorry) Oh!... looking at your profile you are quite new to the geek, OK... Doom: TheBoardgame looks great painted

Mmm... not sure if its wife friendly though.

There are so many games it really does depend on personal preferance, If you are gaming mainlywith your wife how about a co-op like A Touch of Evil: The Supernatural Game

Simon.

Paul C


Yes I am new to the geek. MoM is the first BG I have played in a v. long time. I mainly play videogames but have found that BGs can be a good way to spend some time with my partner. I shall giveTouch a try. And perhaps Arkham Horror and Dominion next.

Just a note on the Quick Shade: I found it worked really well after taking your advice i.e. removingsurplus with kitchen roll and then giving it another brush. As you can see my witches barely look likethey have any staining at all (or clothes for that matter).

Thanks once again

Simon Dunkley


Hi Simon,

Yes I am new to the geek. MoM is the first BG I have played in a v. long time. I mainly play video games

but have found that BGs can be a good way to spend some time with my partner. I shall give Touch a try.

And perhaps Arkham Horror and Dominion next.

Just a note on the Quick Shade: I found it worked really well after taking your advice i.e. removing surplus

with kitchen roll and then giving it another brush. As you can see my witches barely look like they have any

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Posted Wed May 4, 2011 12:27 am

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staining at all (or clothes for that matter).

Thanks once again

Welcome to the Geek, So many great games out there you are in for a blast!I am completely hooked on Board Gaming + my wife plays selected games to.My advice to a new gamer would be take a look at as much info as you can regarding any purchasesbefore parting with you cash, it will save you from disappointment..... Most of the time, as you arerelying on someone else's view. Downloadable rule books and videos usually tell you if a game is foryou or not, its so easy just buying on impulse (talking from experience) once you get familiar with the enormity of it all you will start to weed outthe gems.

Most important thing of all........ have fun!

Simon.

Gesine Stanienda

(Kallisto)I would say: check out Wrath of Ashardalon (it's totally co-op). I just painted all but one of the minisand to me, this is my new passion. I will probably have to get Castle Ravenloft next. At this stage,the painting is more interesting than the actual playing, thanks to this thread and some otheronline-sites!

Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death) Kallisto wrote:

I would say: check out Wrath of Ashardalon (it's totally co-op). I just painted all but one of the minis and

to me, this is my new passion. I will probably have to get Castle Ravenloft next. At this stage, the painting

is more interesting than the actual playing, thanks to this thread and some other online-sites!

Thanks Gesine. Wrath of Ashardalon does have some great looking figures so might pick that up too.

Not too sure about the tiles though. Is it just me or are they a bit on the ugly side

Also got Arkham Horror yesterday and just realised that you cannot buy the investigators unpainted!

I have the 8 from MoM but not the others. That is a bit of a bind!

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Eagle Ov Death wrote:

Hi Simon,

Yes I am new to the geek. MoM is the first BG I have played in a v. long time. I mainly play video games

but have found that BGs can be a good way to spend some time with my partner. I shall give Touch a try.

And perhaps Arkham Horror and Dominion next.

Just a note on the Quick Shade: I found it worked really well after taking your advice i.e. removing surplus

with kitchen roll and then giving it another brush. As you can see my witches barely look like they have any

staining at all (or clothes for that matter).

Thanks once again

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Posted Wed May 4, 2011 4:45 pm

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Posted Thu May 12, 2011 10:57 am

Hi Welcome to the Geek!

Looking for another game with major painting potential? Dust Tactics. Its all military stuff but thefigures are awesome. My family owns three copies of the game and many of the expansions. We aregoing to start painting them this weekend. The game is awesome and you can make it as simple oras complicated as you want. The first time I played a game with my son it took all of about 20-30minutes.

Oh, another game...is Dystopian Wars...which is all ships. Also something we own and is awesometo play.

Hope this gives you some ideas...oh and the figures are awesome!!

Paul C

(Eagle Ov Death)Thanks Joni,

I'll check them out.

Just getting round to painting the Touch of Evil minis at the mo.

My second daughter was born a couple of days ago so might be a bit busy for the next few weeks

Mack Miller

(history_geek) Eagle Ov Death wrote:

Thanks Joni,

I'll check them out.

Just getting round to painting the Touch of Evil minis at the mo.

My second daughter was born a couple of days ago so might be a bit busy for the next few weeks

Congrats on your new daughter!! Best of luck to you!

(melfas) Hi... Love the paint job! Just thought I'd share. For those who really want to dullen the shine leftafter dipping, I find painting the fine details and drybrushing the highlights after applying the acrylicmatt finish realy helps. Again. Great pics!

John Lloyd

(VillainousEye)Hi Simon,Enjoyed the tutorial very much.How much different is using the dip method, compared to say, just washing the miniature with acouple of appropriate GW washes - depending on the colours of the garments etc. If one already has a complete set of GW washes, will dipping add anything to the result??

Thanks!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) VillainousEye wrote:

Hi Simon,

Enjoyed the tutorial very much.

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Posted Sat May 21, 2011 4:21 am

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Posted Sun May 29, 2011 10:59 am

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Posted Mon Jun 6, 2011 3:48 am

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Posted Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:33 pm

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Posted Thu Sep 8, 2011 5:27 am

How much different is using the dip method, compared to say, just washing the miniature with a couple of

appropriate GW washes - depending on the colours of the garments etc.

If one already has a complete set of GW washes, will dipping add anything to the result??

Thanks!

Only when you dip a mini for yourself will you appreciate just how good it is. Its like magic beforeyour eyes.

Paint a couple of test minis and give it a try

Good Luck!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) rhox wrote:

Nyogtha wrote:

No worries. It is expensive, but worth it I think. Also you can combine the three different shades to

get varying shades from the dipping, which is nice, although a little tricker.

I have ordered a tin of strong shade from eBay, I will use it on a couple of test minis before using it on my

next project, currently I have my Last Night On Earth minis all ready for the spray primer so I will post

some shots when they are done.

Thanks again Phil

Well, I did my LNOE minis with Quickshade Dark tone,I found strong to red in colour, as nyogtha saidhe would never go back to regular stains, I couldn't agree more! this is now my dipping stain ofchoice it is so much better. I have edited my tutorial to point this out,thank-you for putting me ontothis.

My next project, Invasion From Outer Space The Martian Game as I have already done my Gears OfWar Minis which turned out very nice.

gigen 77

(gigen77)Hi simon, this are basicaly the first miniatures i ever painted, thanks to you and your tutorials!now...to the monsters!!

(Pierzasty)

gigen77 wrote:

Hi simon, this are basicaly the first miniatures i ever painted, thanks to you and your tutorials! now...to the

monsters!!

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Posted Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:38 pm

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Posted Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:05 pm

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Posted Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:51 pm

These are your first? They're great and you're awesome.gigen 77

(gigen77) Thanks , this quick shade technik does the most!

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) gigen77 wrote:

Hi simon, this are basicaly the first miniatures i ever painted, thanks to you and your tutorials! now...to the

monsters!!

Congratulations for completing your first paintings, they are beautifully shaded, great job.

Your games will be so much more emersive with painted minis, you will know if you have the paintingbug when you start looking for games containing minis just so you can paint them.

Enjoy your painting

Simon.

(TheCruncher) Excellent guide!

If you are interested in modifying minis prior to painting, check out my much rougher guide withsculpey on metal(don't try on plastic models unless u have extra copies of the mini to test withbecause parts could and will partially melt!)

I figured this was a great place to share other creative methods, sorry if it is off topic.

Jimmy Christensen

(Foxhole)Hi Simon!

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Posted Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:04 pm

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Posted Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:57 pm

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Posted Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:43 pm

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Posted Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:10 am

This guide is exactly what I am looking for, but I just have a question for the glossy/vanish effect. Ibought GW Ardcoat blank, but I wont have them too shiny, I want the dull effect you are having. Is itpossible to just diluted with water to get the miniatures less shiny, instead of buying a anti-shinespray?

Simon Dunkley

(rhox)Hello jimmy, from my experience the best way to get a nice flat even finish is with the army painterflat Matt spray. I have tried GW sprays and they tend to still sparkle. I don't think diluting with waterwill make the paints less shinny or did you mean thin the stain, if so you might not get the samedetail shading, it is the dipping stain that creates the high gloss look, army painter stain is a littleless glossy than wood stain.I have had OK results using a water based brush on Matt varnish On minis in the past.goes on likemilk and dries clear.

I hope I have helped, don't hesitate to contact me if you get stuck or need any help.

Enjoy your painting.

Simon.

Jimmy Christensen

(Foxhole)Thanks for the tip! My local hobbyshop doesn't have alot of varnish products.So I took a chance and bought Vallejo Matt Varnish for airbrush. (I don't own an airbrush).

I haven't tried it yet, because of im not finished with my painting. - But I don't know if it will look like crap to brush the matt varnish, with a normal brush. Do you have an opinion on that?

- Otherwise I found an online danish store, who sells Testors DullCote, which also seems to solvethe shiny effect problem.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) Foxhole wrote:

Thanks for the tip! My local hobbyshop doesn't have alot of varnish products.

So I took a chance and bought Vallejo Matt Varnish for airbrush. (I don't own an airbrush).

I haven't tried it yet, because of im not finished with my painting.

- But I don't know if it will look like crap to brush the matt varnish, with a normal brush.

Do you have an opinion on that?

- Otherwise I found an online danish store, who sells Testors DullCote, which also seems to solve the shiny

effect problem.

If you are testing a new varnish I would advise painting a couple of test figures while you do yourgame minis, then try the varnish out on one of those or half of one then you can see the difference itmakes.

I can't comment on dullcote sorry I have not used it, again test first.

Good luck, don't forget to post some pictures.

Simon.

(Pierzasty) Usually airbrush products of the game variety are just thinned more. Should be OK.

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Steve Bernardo

(theanimaster)THANK YOU for this tutorial! It's answered so many lingering questions I've always had -- such asthe speed required when priming and the "faded" colours you get when applying 50-50 colour to themodels. I figured I should have been applying multiple layers of paint rather than flat coats! Thanksfor confirming this!

And wow... just such an awesome thing you've done for the creative community here! Many manythanks!

Dustin Gomez

(mindfad05)what colors are people using for there flesh tones? I hate the ones I have tried so far.

Toni -tron

(narnil)Thanks for the guide. I just finished painting my minis. Never painted anything before. Some of themturned out pretty nice. I'm not too keen on the Shoggoths and Chthonians though. Painting largesurfaces was much more difficult than doing small details.

Simon Dunkley

(rhox) narnil wrote:

Thanks for the guide. I just finished painting my minis. Never painted anything before. Some of them

turned out pretty nice. I'm not too keen on the Shoggoths and Chthonians though. Painting large surfaces

was much more difficult than doing small details.

I think you have made a super job painting your minis, they look great!When it comes to large surfaces drybrushing is your friend, just layer progressively lighter shades ofyour chosen colour, maybe give it a try next time.

Enjoy your game and Thankyou for posting.

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mansions of madness _ image _ boardgamegeek

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