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JONATHAN PRYCE MANOFA KIND MATTHEW ZORPAS LONDON GUIDE ISSUE 0ZERO

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Page 1: Manofakind.net

Jonathan pryce

manoFakind

Matthew zorpaslondon guideis

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This is a prinTed vesion oF Manofakind.net

This FirsT issue celebraTes The new TalenTs oF london,From vogue uK sTreeTsTyle

phoTographer, Jonathan pryce, To pr consulTanT and blogger, Matthew zorpas.

The ciTy guide would help you enjoy The besT oF whaT

london has To oFFer!

please visiT Manofakind.net

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deniMurban inspirationSomewhat dubitative about the mix of denims at first, we’ve learnt to embrace its originality, aesthetics and adaptability. That said, if we think about the basic three-piece outfit (pants, t-shirt, shirt, or any other version of it), two thirds of it can be denim. Otherwise, that’s just too much, really. Typically, dark jeans/white t-shirt/light denim shirt is your safe choice, but why not add some grey and black tones in there? Remember, it’s not so much about the co-lour per se, but more about the material itself. And sometimes, a well-tailored plaid shirt will be just fine with your Levi’s – or APC, if anything. One last thing, though: you shouldn’t look stiff or have difficulties breathing in. It’s not a skinny-jeans contest. So relax, go

a size up and enjoy. In style.

Text // Michael RaddatzPhotographs // Tommy Ton

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FOR a SmaLL TREaT // Denim Shirt NORSE PROJECTS // Sleeveless Jacket AMERICAN APPAREL // Bleach Shirt SANDRO // Colorado Shirt SAN-DRO // FOR a GUILTY PLEaSURE // Studded Denim Shirt PIERRE BALMAIN // Camo denim Shirt WOOD WOOD // Two-toned Sleeves LEVI’S VIN-TAGE COLLECTION // Panelled Denim Shirt PAUL SMITH JEANS // Vintage faux shearling LEVIS // Denim Shirt A.P.C. HOMME // Jean A.P.C. HOMME // Jacquard Shirt OUR LEGACY // Jacquard Denim Jacket PENDELTON // Washed-Denim Jacket ACNE // FOR a REaL SPLURGE // Trucker Jacket

DENIM & SUPPLY RAPLH LAUREN // Denim Blouson WRANGLER // Brass Button Jacket DSQUARED2

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Photographs // Kith NYC

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Giuseppe Zanotti // Snake

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New Balance // Farmers market

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Filling Pieces // Ponyhair

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Jonathan, you are a very successful pho-tographer and we have noticed your great interest towards fashion on numerous occasions. and it appears that Street style pictures are your specialty. Why is Jonathan Pryce so much into street style? Where does the passion come from?

I’m best known for my street photography work because that’s how I started. My good friend in New York has been sending me Bill Cunningham’s street photography collum in the New York Times for years, and when I stu-died in the city I discovered Scott Schuman’s Sartorialist exhibition for the first time. I love street style because of it’s authenticity. I photograph fashion editorial a lot, and with this there’s a lot of control which enables the photographer to play with a vision. However, the challenges of street photography – the uncertain light, the variable background, the unsure subjects – make for an exciting pro-cess. I love meeting new people also so it’s perfect for me.

Through your very well known websites «Les Garçons de Glasgow» and «another garcon», we were able to appreciate your

interview with

Jonathan pryce

Interview // Henri-Nicolas de PreuxPhotographs // Jonathan Pryce

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great artistic sensibility… Out and about, have you got any particular criteria as to whom you photograph? What would be Jonathan’s checklist to qualify?

It’s always different and very difficult to pin down. The over-riding aspect I’m looking for is personality. Someone that shows some individuality and confidence in themselves. There are so many street bloggers now I think having a discerning eye for the subjects I choose is quite important. More so than ever before. In terms of style, I personally love the classic tailored look. Something chic and beautiful always catches my eye. However, as a pho-tographer I do keep in mind what looks good on film and that’s more often than not colour and bold print. Focusing on the online side of things, we have quite a blunt question one might say. But, what’s the rationale behind your strong focus on men?

I started to focus on men on my men’s style blog Another Garcon around 2 years ago. This is really for two main reasons, the first being my personal interest in menswear. As a man, I feel I understand it more clearly and overall the industry isn’t as oversaturated as womenswear. Mens clothing is still about funcionality in design which is something I can appreciate. Secondly, the culture of blog-ging has changed a lot since I began in 2005 and it’s more important than ever to have a focus and clarity. You’ve recently launched your very first book «100 Beards, 100 Days». Of aLL things, why the beard, Jonathan? Would you see it as being a potential accessory for the modern gentleman?

As a street style photographer, I often see trends come and go. The beard is a trend

which was really starting to peak in the Spring of 2012 and I wanted to document it’s pre-sence in London before it became too popu-lar. Also, I lived in Paris last year and nearly every self respecting man has a beard. Retur-ning to the UK, it really made an impression on me and I noticed all the new men who were growing them. Also, I’m awful at growing one myself so I was living vicariously. There has been quite some controversy over fashion photography recently mainly regarding the impact of retouching pro-grams on the general perception of reality and beauty itself. and it is in awe that we have seen the opposite in your photogra-phs; men appear as natural as they can be. It feels like photographing street style is your way to prove to the world that «natu-ral» is still in?

My personal opinion is down the centre. I’m not a huge fan of overly retouched images as I like authenticity. I do think that as artists we should use whatever tools we can to create the effect we’re looking for so I’m not a snob about retouching if that’s what you like. I do retouch my images, but I’d prefer it to look the best version of natural that is possible. And you’re right, that’s what street style makes available.

You are very fashionable yourself, and we are true fans of your style. Tell us your thoughts on how to know when something that looks good on someone on the street will look good on us. You must get a lot of inspiration from the men you photograph! What do you do with all that visual and sty-listic inspiration?

I do get inspired a lot, but it takes me a long time to adapt something seen on someone else to myself. Often what I’ll do is take a photograph and mull it over, perhaps sketch it out. It often will take me 6 months to find the

item which I think best suits me. It’s improtant to really consider what you are all about. After many mistakes I know what looks good on me and what doesn’t. I will no longer wear skinny jeans or neon colours. Your book has been a real success, so what’s next to come? I’m looking to release a second edition of the 100 beards book. I’m launching an exhibition in Foyles in London next month and also have interest in a special project in Brazil. After an inspired conversation with an American friend, I’m also looking into setting up a kicks-tarter project to take 100 Beard to the States and do a US roadtrip, documenting the expe-rience on film. Watch this space.

Finally… We were wondering... where is your beard? (laughs)

Good question! About halfway through the project I had many many people ask me to attempt to grow a beard in honor of my sub-jects. I grew my beard for about 6 weeks and decided to end the 100 days with a self-por-trait. About an hour after I did the shoot, I shaved it off. I like the beard but don’t think it suits me! With an American friend, I’m also looking into setting up a kickstarter project to take 100 Beard to the States and do a US roadtrip, documenting the experience on film. Watch this space.

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matthew zorpasfrom the gentlemanblogger.com

On a lazy Sunday at home // I like to wear an oversized knitwear jumper and

boxer shorts.

When going for a pair of leather pants // it’s always better to get them only in black!

Stripes should be // on a tie!

Going back to basics // you cannot go wrong with a white t-shirt and a nice

double breasted suit!

Dots print look so much better // on a handkerchief!

never wear a military jacket with // olive green trousers!

Those fluorescent Nike sneakers should really be worn with //

your gym outfit…

When getting ready for a wedding // I never leave without peppermints !

For me, Italian elegance is // all about a tailored suit!

I would dare wearing see-trough with // something that is not in my wardrobe!

A floral handkerchief would look really good // with a plain silk tie.

Interview // Henri-Nicolas de PreuxText // Helena BoissonasPhotographs Credit // thegentleman

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// Wool coat UNDERCOVER // Blazer TIGER OF SWEDEN// Boots CHURCH’S // Blazer ANTONIO AZZUOLO // Wool scarf MASSIMO DUTTI // Print shirt TOPMAN // Trousers MIGUEL ANTOINNE // White shirt NEIL BARRETT // Handkerchiefs DEREK ROSE //

Never missing an opportunity to dress up, Matthew Zorpas – Polish by birth – would be our Don Draper of England. Tailored suits aficionado, he couldn’t agree more with Anna Dello Russo’s lesson n°3: «Fashion is always uncomfortable. When you get comfortable, you don’t have the look» He is the type that would show up to a barbecue fully suited up! Always paying the grea-test attention to details to complementing his looks – be it a tie, handkerchief or a piece of jewellery, to name a few – Matthew has a very keen eye for upco-ming designers. In fact, on his recently-launched blog www.thegentlemanblogger.com he takes us with him through his London life, experiences and discoveries. You will find yourself at his workplace, meeting artists and new designers, at the latest gallery exhibition or even virtually splurging on a lush spa session.

Interview // Henri-Nicolas de PreuxText // Helena BoissonasPhotographs Credit // thegentleman

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style in a bag

Styling // Henri-Nicolas de Preux

mELBOURnE // Short MARC BY MARC JACOBS// Bag WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE // Sunglasses THOM BROWNE // Sneaker CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN // T-Shirt JAMES PERSE //

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SEOUL // Pants MICHAEL BASTIAN // Shirt RALPH LAUREN // Denim Jacket AMI // Sneakers FILLING PIECES // Scarf ERIC BOMPARD // Gloves MELINDA GLOSS // Cap NORSE PROJECTS //

maLmO // Sunglasses SUPER// Briefcase SANTIAGO GONZALEZ // Jean ACNE // Coat MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA // Belt PAUL SMITH // Shoes SANTONI // Shirt SEATTLE BASED MAIDEN NOIR //

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londoncity guide

Purl BarInsider note // This Bar will take you back to the 20!

50-54 Blandflord StreetLondon W1U 7HXwww.purl-london.com

Bodo’s Schloss ClubInsider note // Put your beanie on and let the mountain drives you

2a Kensington High Street,London W8 4REwww.bodosschloss.com

The Providores RestaurantInsider note // Go and enjoy their delicious tapas from all around the world

109 Marylebone High Street,London W1U 4RXwww.theprovidores.co.uk

The Breakfast ClubInsider note // It is definitly the coolest sunday brunch in town2-4 Rufus Street

London N1 6PEwww.thebreakfastclubcafes.co.uk

aqua Spa at Sanderson HotelInsider note // Starck designed it so you will be able to enjoy also with your eyes!

50 Berners StreetLondon W1T 3NGwww.sandersonlondon.com

Text // Gladys Meyer

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Ln-CCStyle: Avant-GardeBrands stocked : Sacai, Rick Owens, Tim Copens

18 Shacklewell LaneLondon E8 2EZwww.ln-cc.com

The HideoutStyle: StreetwearBrands stocked: Norse Project, Original Fake, Visvim

7 Upper James StreetLondon W1F 9DHwww.hideoutstore.com

Opening CeremonyStyle: FashionableBrands stocked: T by Alexander Wang, Carven

35 King StreetLondon WC2E 8JGwww.openingceremony.us

adrien SauvageStyle: ElegantBrands stocked: Adrien Sauvage

48 Maddox StreetLondon W1www.asauvage.com

Wolf and BadgerStyle: ArtyBrands stocked: Lou Dalton, Tomas Donocik, Drake’s

46 Ledbury RoadLondon W11 2ABwww.wolfandbadger.com

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