mannosylerythritol lipids (mel) as additives in … · 2017. 6. 28. · pseudozyma sp. • self...

16
© Fraunhofer IGB Alexander Beck SuperBIO Workshop Biosurfactants, Gent, Belgium User Group Meeting Biosurfactants Carbosurf, 3rd April 2017 Fraunhofer Institute for Interfacial Engineering and Biotechnology IGB MANNOSYLERYTHRITOL LIPIDS (MEL) AS ADDITIVES IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

Upload: others

Post on 11-Feb-2021

4 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Alexander Beck

    SuperBIO Workshop Biosurfactants, Gent, Belgium

    User Group Meeting Biosurfactants Carbosurf, 3rd April 2017

    Fraunhofer Institute for Interfacial Engineering and Biotechnology IGB

    MANNOSYLERYTHRITOL LIPIDS (MEL) AS ADDITIVES IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    ...the next promising biosurfactants produced by microorganisms

    Literature available for lab scale synthesis and applications

    Large gap towards process optimization and piloting scale

    Addressed in the Carbosurf Project as one of four product linestogether with Sophorolipids, Rhamnolipids and Xylolipids

    MicrobialBiosurfactants

    Origin Properties and PotentialApplications

    Titers

    Mannosyl-erythritol lipids(MEL)

    Pseudozymasp.

    • Self assembling properties• Emulsifier• Cosmetics and personal care• Pharmaceuticals• Cleaning agents

    160 g/L

    Cellobiose lipids(CL)

    Ustilago sp. • Antimicrobial effects• Preservatives• Cleaners

    33 g/L

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Current research on MEL production at IGB

    Strain selection

    Evaluation of renewable resources

    Metabolic pathway analysis

    Bioprocess engineering

    Medium composition

    Reactor design

    Process strategies

    Controllability

    Downstream processing

    Aim

    High space-time-yield

    Scale-up engineering

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Chemical structure of Mannosylerythritol Lipids

    Glycolipids – contain hydrophilic sugar moiety and fatty acid residues

    Microorganisms produce a mixture of different MEL structures

    R6 = Ac- or H-

    R4 = Ac- or H-

    C2 - C18

    C2 - C18

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Different MEL variants lead to different properties

    MELs clustered according to polarity on TLC (Kitamoto et al., 1990)

    MEL-A

    MEL-B

    MEL-C

    MEL-D

    Oil

    Fatty acid

    TLC result

    pola

    rity

    MEL-B MEL-C

    MEL-D

    MEL-A

    Kitamoto, D., Akiba, S., Hioki, C., Tabuchi, T., (1990) Extracellular Accumulation of Mannosylerythritol Lipids by a Strain of Candida antarctica. Agricultural and Biological Chemistry 54, 31-36.

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    How to tailor MEL production?

    Different approaches possible (simultaneously):

    Use of different strains

    Use of different (renewable) feedstocks

    Post-modification of produced MEL-mixture

    Modification of metabolic pathway

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Selection of production strain

    Use of different strainsp

    ola

    rity

    (Morita et al., 2008)

    Morita, T., Konishi, M., Fukuoka, T., Imura, T., Kitamoto, D., (2008) Production of glycolipid biosurfactants, mannosylerythritol lipids, by Pseudozyma siamensis CBS 9960 and their interfacial properties. Journal of bioscience and bioengineering 105, 493-502.

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Selection of production strain

    Pseudozyma strain 2 produces all main MEL derivatives and a high titer of hydrophilic MEL-D

    P. strain 3 produces mainly MEL-B and MEL-C

    Different Pseudozyma strains

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Variation of MEL composition induced by carbon source

    Use of different (renewable) feedstocks

    Hydrophilic: Molasses, Lignocellulosic sugars, Glycerol, …

    Used for biomass growth

    Hydrophobic: Soybean oil, Olive oil, Coconut oil, Castor oil, …

    Necessary for MEL synthesis

    Influences side-chain composition

    Oleic acid

    Lauric acidRicinoleic acidDifferent oils

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Post-modification of produced MEL-mixture

    Enzymatic treatment with lipase at 60°C

    Increases percentage of hydrophilic MEL variants

    Mono-acylated„MEL-X“

    MEL-Dp

    ola

    rity

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    How to set up a scalable fermentation process?

    Strategies for a controllable fermentation process

    MediaComponents

    MetabolismOperating Conditions

    C-Sources

    Mineral MediaGenetics /

    BiosynthesisStirring, Foam,

    O2 SupplyOil, Fatty Acids, Hydrophilic C

    Seed Culture Media C- and N-source Amino Acids Vitamins Trace Elements

    Un-/saturated Chain Length

    (C12-C18) Water-soluble C-

    Sources: Glycerol, Glucose

    Expression Level of Target Genes

    Regulatory Controls Repression (C or N) Inhibition Induction Overflow

    Metabolites

    Antifoam/ Defoamers

    Feeding Strategies Aeration and

    Stirring Strategy pH Control Seed Culture

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    How to set up a scalable fermentation process?

    Strategies for a controllable fermentation process

    Repeated-Batch strategy with oil addition after growth phase

    Control of pH, stirring and pO2

    Growth phase

    Productionphase

    Growth phase

    Productionphase

    Repeated oil addition

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Physico-chemical properties of MEL

    Measurement of surfactant properties

    Different foaming ability of MEL structures

    StrainSubstrate

    (oils )CMC

    [mg/L]σmin

    [mN/m]

    Pseudozyma 2

    Oil A 1.33 25.5

    Oil B 2 25

    Oil C 4 26.5

    Oil D 1.4 27

    Oil E 1.5 26.4

    Pseudozyma 1 Oil A 1.99 30.8

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Application of MEL in cosmetics

    Reported potential applications in literature:

    Moisturizing effect on dry skin (ceramide-like properties of MEL-A)

    Repair of damaged hair (MEL-A and B)

    Activation of fibroblasts and papilla cells

    Antioxidant activities – anti-aging ingredients?

    Work performed by Croda:

    High throughput screening for formulationsin personal care

    Extended functionalities

    Currently fermentation running to supply samples

    Morita, T., Fukuoka, T., Imura, T., Kitamoto, D., (2013) Production of mannosylerythritol lipids and their application in cosmetics. Appl MicrobiolBiotechnol 97, 4691-4700.

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Great structural variety of MELs

    Tailoring of MEL variants already possible

    Development of a scalable production process

    Properties of MEL make them suitable for cosmetic applications

    Summary and Outlook

  • © Fraunhofer IGB

    Acknowledgement

    Key researchers:

    Dr. Michael Günther

    Paula Carrillo

    Head of Department:

    apl. Prof. Dr. Steffen Rupp

    Contact

    Alexander Beck, M.Sc.

    Dr. Susanne Zibek

    Nobelstrasse 12, 70569 Stuttgart, Germany

    [email protected]

    [email protected]

    www.igb.fraunhofer.de

    mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]://www.igb.fraunhofer.de/