make a coat

7/27/2019 Make a coat

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ISSUEDEXTENSIONMASS. STATE

LEAFLET No. 16t

BYSERVICECOLLEGEJTJNE 1945


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MAKE A COATbY ESTHER COOLEY PAGEExtensioi Clothins Specialist

EUi Enlland cliffil. in its nr6Dil. rarietl has exacting \*rdroi{dcmands. Coais ccsfoltable .noulh for rigorors $inlers ofi.rjng prGtcclion lgainsl rlin and sno{ a.jquate lor an unpredictable Fall a.Sf'ring are a Froblem, They are a major budgci ilem shether rou tu mnaee $ith one eood coal or need sereral.MaLe )ou coais and rliere that bndget stanr: Prolessninai resulls ..a$ elcn lor bcginners. \Uhai's horc, $h.n ma.le of lhe ine ne$ malerial:$ easilr alailable jn shops and mill-end stores in this area, coai ests aD krrorc than cut in half. Old oatings and suiiings also prodde matena,s lhaineed no anolog!. Nho doesD't take Dride in producing a qualit, garment at lit1l.Remodening $'ill be situplii.d, cldhin! .are and reDair johs easier, a.d FL{ill be a much bctler jrdgc of qualit} nr coats }otr buy, il }on M{IiE I CO\T.

PLANS FOR SUCCESSTnne is ioo short. Don.y to Dre.iaus, a.d saiisfactions too inporlant to.iskiailurs in Mknrg coais, So, plan careful!} belore bqing alr nelr ftateriaisand belore ,rou slalt constrlction. A coal is . comrosiie garne.t. Se\ e.al rrF:oi fahrics and icchniqu.s must be blended shoolmJ.,. This does not tuean a.oat is dif,icult to make ioverer, Ior ibe fabdcs inlolred are easl to mnaleand the dassictailored stllesusualJl selcctedare rnirrsally becohi.g and eas\

f1istakcsofju&nent in choosing slyles, maierials ard construclion techniquesnr relaiion io }ou nee.li can be aloided it 'Lou consider:COST ]lo$ much.an )ou $end:' \{hat strlcs and mat.naE rrill last asio.g as thet musl? 1'lust this coat surrile rough $ea'lUSE $ill !n all-seaen and generll.popose coal snit )oru ne.ds? Shosldltis b. an in-betseen seasn sble, roo'nI enouEh to rear orer suitsor ssealers

lor .{ra $ mth, or be $tuh enough in itself lor $inicr {.ar? \ftat fabrics or.onstNciion {ill pturide the }earhlh }ou vaDl and still be l,eht in }righl? \r:ilt'ou harc s$.ral coals oi urling {eighis and st}les in your $rrdrobe?COLOR IIARIIONY Do lon sa.i a goo.l basic color o. a coat thal i.cents

p Pas! eileicnces silr bolh ready-to-sear aDd nade-at-lDne oats ofierclues to eme problens in making a coat, $ ere rlur coats on{ortable in $eighl


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MAKE A COA'|and 61, eas) k) vall or sit in? Wqe the}l durable, easy to are for and otheryi*satis{actor ,"? $rhai qualities will ,ou repeat and shat a}oid ir the oat you

YOLTRTECHNIQUE 1'oURPATIENCE YOURTIME How much ofthese il'.. c.modities do you harr io exlend in making this garment? Ifthe}, are limited, ch@se malerials that are irn, but pliable, {ith a slightly roqhsurlace llat onceal @nsLaction to some er_tent. Selecl pati.rns yith as feeSOURCES OF I\ISPIRATION Clip pictures of sil.les and linishes thatappeal 10 )_ou. Windos shop. Photoeiaphic illuslrations of {astening arrange-me.ts, pockets and top-stilching details {dI be a great hclp in making your

TOOLS FOR TAILORINGDquipmeni adequate lor home tailodng issimple. Mosi iiems $iI be found in an)iome. Itetus described de als desirable,or routine care and repai. of cloliing.C,OOD LIG}ITT BLE SPACE for cuiiing the largcstpaltern pie@s for sesing. Malerials gctout of shape if they are lifted or draggedaround much. Pleci* tailoring is almosiimpossible and lhe $hole job slowed up ifthe vorking surlace is inadequate. lf ncIarge table is alaiiable, a 50 x 40 inchpiee of plr$ood or \i!ll bo d that can beus.d on chair backs or card tables {illSMOOTH RUNNING SEWING IIA-CHINE-sec U.S.D.A. Farmers Bul-,elin No. 1944, 'Seving lUachine, CI.an-!'UI-L LE\CTH MIRROR sce )aurs.lrSIIALL SEWING EQUIPMENT-harpdressmakers shears, Do not use pnrkinqsheas to tut medim or healT *eightcoatings or tou will dull ttem. Tape lineyardstick 8" x 12" flat metal square$eights for tDldi.e patterns in pla@lailors clalk (cla), val, or french X de-pending on tuaterial) daning oilon fortailor tacks needles, shaDs ad lE-tweens assrted 5 to 10 silk pins.


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EX'I'ENSION LDAF'LET NO. T62IRONING BOARD a sil padded boardis neceiary for pressing u@1. Paddingshorld be abo$ tkee{ishths inch thick and

in one piee e lhai there ee no senm orridges. Old w@1 blukets *e g@d as they' giv." Eder pressue e tiEt steams imDrintand shine are less likely to result. Correshodd be lintles. Medim ,eighi un-bleached muslirr d pre$ doah from ehichali sizirg h6 been remved, or old shetsPRESS CLOTH (lte t,,Des ae ne&d)l. lor s@1, a healy coflon cloth eld uldersuch names as 8{z Dres cloth, ddll, allclc

or boat-sail doth. Re@t all siziDg bcloreEsi.g. A one yard lengt, wil pmvi& tm15" pres cloihs and the 6' leD$rr beededfor @ledIg a sleelt olsbioL Ke, oEdoth for presing llti udoft for &d. colors.2, Ralons, silks, tttuk oato6 dd lies @dihe protection of thin cott@ ak th d cbee-3. For fabriG that sater sot tiss e *Ep-

SPONGD, blch or ihir a|l.d .l,ab forapDlyjng moishrc to prN cloth used Id uDt.THIN CARDBOARD or bar, ErEingpatd stips to slip under seans a.d Fak taaps and btreen hefr lalec lo awid liesePRESS BLOCK or slappr o{ beary, ridr-sm@thed w@4 simitar in sl!.pe and lize toiuushalion. Tlis is in'tuable f@ presdDgseam. lEm or pleats shapb uithout


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CHOICE OF FABRICSCoats ma) be unlined and ma.le of onlv one kind of mterial Or thex ia! berine.l. i erlined a.d intedaed irlol}inA the cunbination of sever.l reeights,teitues and 6bres. Care musa be used to balan.e theii choi.e and treatreni,othetuie the coat will l@k staDeless and homemde.ln general aloid chosing linings, inierlini.gs, and iDte.faciigs that are toothict or stifi to be conrbined $ilh the @attg.In a cotupcile g melt like a @at, one falaic lEv be Ged to .ohpen$tefor a lack oI some neede.l qulily in oihers aaailable. For exmple, a il.ol inter_lininq may be used to dke up for lack of Mtmth tn @ting or lining *ctions.A firm close $eale inierlacing may help io rcirfor@ butionholes so that thev areless likel, to fra, oui in a @ se-tlread, l@se-ssle coat fabric lt is a geatconlenience in neking butto.hole @nstroction {here othcr rethods do nolsho{ up. A tun solt idterlacing ma, aid in shaping colla.s and lalels iir a toc$ft material and makine thd l@l ]lerl-hilored-

COATINGS.-OLD AND NE\(/God mol coaiings and suilinss de an economv. Thev $ea forye s and 6often b mde oler and over again wlh lerv satisi2ctory rc${ts. Lok oter*hat you hale on hand before tou buv new.Ii )ou ae bqing .e{ mterials, @nsult voft pattern and bry the lardagerhe pattch Glls for, mless you are experienced enough to dt more econoojotl)'EMmine yo( Mierial oretull] to see if it has $me qualities that mke vedagedeman.Ls. tlas you Mklnl "nap, " or a plaid or stdDe? what are the sbrink-ase Dossibilities? Urness fabrics .re s@anteed in witing as thosughry shrulqil is iilar lo.lluw so;c mrgin fn, this.Buy @lors lhat are fasl to s@, {ater, drv cl@ning add perspnation.R.;d hhels. Studv theit tueanine. Today, the lao rcquires that \@l labriGbe labele.l 10 sho$ percentage dd }inds of tool as well as otho libeE ontained'The vord "$ool" on a lnbel ind,otes a fabric m.le of fresh unused fiber'"Rerroc.s*d \u@1" mstu ll'al thc woot 6be' las been qoven bBore' bul


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6 EX].E\SIO\ LUAaLE'I, \o. 1ai2nekr Mh_ iReused $!ol,,means that ihe,iber has be.D usld before, si.rit-ized, and relorked irto fabric, A labet dcsribir! ,,iil perccni rool, 30 p.rcentr NJ r(ool. 2u p., . (nl rlon" rE, he a {t'sIa.1,,.) idb., jt,r j.ujrll $unlrsorg.noqu.trtj. (ollon.,dJ.ion


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}1AKE A COATINTERLININGS

hlerlinings add vaimth but ii they are too heary ard thick ihel nuke a cctrtlook clums\'. OIdor neN naDre.l cotton $oren sool ol quilled lamb's wool n )be used, Wool adds more $armth than cotton.Single ot double interlinings hal be used thtaughoui or in seclio.s. ForcMmplc, jf the body of a .oal is lined {ith flanDel and the sleeles wiih ra}!D,the @at,Ey be inlerlin.d thtuugholt $ith a si.gle laler of outing flannel and adouble Iayer used i. the sl.ercs. A single or double intetlining is frequedllyused in the lops of sleeres and in the back of the shoulders ool).

"uiind Lrreaker" tlD.s ol intolining, usunlly cha ois ot suede, are usedoainh tlrrouqh the shoulders id tle lack of the coat do{n to the waist, Suchi.terlininqs nay lrc petmnently atiached in Ore coat or made detacirable wiih alining on one slde. $ thet may De added onl} as cold $eathei demands.

INTERFACINGSInlerfacings a.id "body an.l shape," Aroid using lM heall, sti( fabrics as ihecoa! may look unwield,.

Tailored str'lcs, or coats of soft or loose v.ave maiedals. ma-\r Dced the addi_donal stifiening or firmness interfacings prolide. Collars, lapels, cuffs, shoulders,and lacing scctions may need this lreaiment.SoIt, mediuo!*eilht laM, lnbleached oi bleached muslin, or old linen Drav

be used. Nig8in clolh is a fabric mrde specifically for this lurpose. Intefacirgshust Lre thoroughl, sinunk and all sizing remoled belre appltirrgSTAY TAPE1 One-.ighlh inch {id. cotton or linen tape or a narro{ slriDof soft .otlon selrage is nccded to stay facin8 and armsqe seams. lt Dral alebe nee.led to keep neckline, yoke and oiher *ams fDfr sketching. Shink alliap thomulhly beicre appl),ing.SEAM BI\DINC: Silk or a fim teave laron ribbon bnxhE is useful in 6n-ishing hems in open hem coais. A one-balf inch strip oI sehage torn or cut lroa)our ralon liDin! and lbe fa$ edee Dressed uf,der !nar_ serle ttis purpose andprole more d(able thln some taDes yo! can buy.BUTTONS: Choose Eood qualil) bulions ihat sill sla.d *ear and drr-, clcan-in! andthat harmonize vith ihe coat strle and material.lf desiiaDle str_les andcolors are difiicult to nnd, fabric olered ores usralb look vell .nd mav givesalisfactoia ser!i.e. Hdle then colered or nake them you6elt. Sce page 22TIIREAD: Choose good grad., color-fast se$ing cotton a shade darker thanlabri.- Size 50 mererized.oiton is uscd in mediutu {eight .nats. Hea!, dutvihread is uscd for armholes an.l necklines o! all tlpes of @ats and throughosthealy coatings. Seving silk mar be used for nrside seams shere exita slreDglhand d(ability are desired.SHOL,_LDER Pr\DS: Smoolh fitting broad shodder lines detuadd the "right"shoulder pad. Buy the stlle suited to eals:nd ihe armseve line tvpe vou a.e


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EITE\SION LEAFLET NO. i62SHRINK NE\( MATERIALS

i Ney *aol silt shrink alone constru.tion linesif it is not ftoroughly shrunk before it isma.le up. l{}rile some e@ds are eid as n ._shrunk, unless,ou ttusr the:tuara.ree. i;r icorncr o{ }oE iablic Ior shrir ias before rorstart ottina, Basre a r$rt\c inch $uareJnd slum prcss rt. tI lhis corneL shrinlienough lo "draw in,, around the hargin,)our coalirg mud att bc shtunl. Fis _lMilenajr mJy strint tenrth$ise and " snryise froft one ao three or more inches per

Materials nay ,E slh.k {here puched,by }ou tailor, or dry clea.er, or sMnt irrourseli. Tvo ilems aie needed:A thin hoard of somr neunjie.l. mo-sam!o! \irh rounJcJ edsrs, aboul JO,!10,.L.ngihs of medium-seight hcli. o. okisheets about one yard longer lhan ,rou coa!ing and al least thiitj-tM jnclres ride, -{n,sizing musl be remole.l berore using DElioSeams or hems shordd be remoted from oi.tsheets or lne! ma,Ieaye their impnnt.Shrinh Uiool as fottoss :Straighten maleriat so rhar edges andthreads are true. See Fig. 2,Clip *lrages. Ara.ge coa{ing nith righrsid.s togelher so tha! sehages de eren an.lall threads are true and srraight,


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M.{KE A COATWel the cotton sheet, wing mddately dry dd sEead t1 out flal.Plae @lins on lup of thc sheel. so lhal lhe shel e(ends tBenly inches orftore D)ond @alirg. l'ig(e 3 shows this an.ngemenl. ABCD tepresents theslret, EFCH rool @tirg.Fotd sheet end CD up oaer @lif,g end GH.Lay the Lrotud (lt) on Lp of sheei, trosswise of ma1eri.t, tud ercn wilh lineGII. Wrap sheet and @ating over a.d ove the bodd. Aaoid tension andMaterial is left wapped from 4 to 8 houJs or hore, or ontil the moist@ pene-U oll. Sr,rcad {he coaiing out flat and arlow ft ro dry thobuEhlr-Itessing $ith aD non is usully unrccessary. Il desirable, ho*!et, use

d. rhod d(s(ibed on pisc ll,Lining, irterliDing and inledacings usually need no tealhent before ahey areude uD. Test for saler-spotting and color faslness it there G any uertaintyabout this so that you $ill know iI you mus! u* caution in prssing to avoid un-siglrtt, spotting. Shrinkage should be checked on tm, as it muld be un{ortunateto har inside fabric layers draw. Sizing should be removed rrom interfacirgs.If childr.n's @ats mct sta.d {tuhing, all fabric Ged slDuld be {aslEble,or $ashed before they ee ma.le uD.

" SOMETHING FOR NOTHING "Maklng new @ats from old coats, stits, skirts, or dreses is ver) etisfyiog.They are olten 6 altactive and iull, as duable as those Dade lrom nev maie-dals. Examine fabdcs dosery nrsa to be sure thq *i{ nake a ne* garnenttuih the e{ort. Scratch threails and hoid fabrics up to the tghi to see if they

lvhere old garmerts mEt he ripped, use a stitr ore-edge razor blade. Cutofi nano$ *ms, ii Mtenal isn't too pre.ioE.^lcndine rniy bc poslDoned unlil iftcr lhe oal is .ul. \mrlrhohsanJlea6Mv be Jr ni.l s as lo be quile in.isible Eins slrro,ls oi hman han, o,la bricrMlings. Pockets, buttonholes, a.l ale.olatile details ma, be used to @ver$orn sDots or aears. Any slashes shotdd b? basted io a piece of thin otton befored.ansi.g or dyejrg to prerent umecessar) stretchiri or t.atin8.Worn dd ilreadbare coatings ce oiten be Mde up wong side oui, elen ifthele is a p{cnounced 'tight" and "srons.' r E} look slEbb} elen on theMons !i.lc. ! dnse ol Jrc maj rerue lhtd.Prcss and lrue all pieces b.forc cuttilg. Mark {ith chalk or bastif,g indiating

lhe drniihl grd;n. ,Urecl:!,n ol nan, Io Jirlinilish righl and {"on3 sides o{ (a.h*ction and all dMged aeas. Mark atl these item .learly oq the woDg sideof the labric to aid in cutling. See Fge 14.Cledse all fabrtcs thorou{Uy Lre{ofe Mking coat. Renove staiG likel} to

sboN in the nnished 6a1. USDA Farmers' Duletin No. 1477 on "Sliin R.moval"giles suggestioc. Some $@1 and raron fabrics ousf be d'1' cl6ed Olhersm, be lamdered, It is safesa io iest u.ituporfant sdaps to see if ihe}, are


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lar D\TENSION I_iiAFi_ET 5r(). 162. Ldbdrr \\mt or R"\un .iour hysord5 a,e oe !.nrt(. be qur+J u* tuk!_u- w-atlr and neulrdt eap. tabri.s rilt roro lh,rr cnlor. -; .h,t;;;;;;or De@he boa"dj it rhis p.,,qdu.e r u,..tl. P,epare lut e\rrm suds belorc iime..rnqetuu.. Rubo.nlioanoltibr.csma! shrinl rooi anJ srlrr otrr2, Use a Daitin! or clnDinS motion, [email protected] $a,aeitalion, I is sc'silile io scrubbing aod., cque(zc \dt.r frnm a,,oo.. D,, not \1.ne. 1, " he..hi1:cdt ql..g(r j5used, loosen.olr4. Rihse ttroroughty in ruke$ m Naler.5. Dry ai a moderalc temDeraiure,6. Ajtcr \a(hinB. slretch fab.ic in shr^ "n.t "ro" to (,J f!. p.t..:n; malm ufl\cc$a,r. ,r F(jsins i, n(.(s,drr. rotr

"t,.- , " _,f ,,,=i ",iearc lntil l)arIy dry. press white srili dMp, usjng m.l,rod des(ihed_ L,\ El\C tOR ]\E\ LI L. lr ..o!rirq st,]j tor,k- du dnJ \(o.1 3jrt. ,Jundcr_rn.(rerit ,urncd J].iI. \\.h:r. b" "r", "" ."J. ii,_b.i],";l:hopeless olherrise it may be {odh lhe stisht ost and erorr to .".or*I.lenlit| ll-e 6b.r.f ons.:oie. ls il rtt \o"t. \oot anu co.ron. o, rr.on. ( hoo.e)our LlJe lo u,lo' as much or ds ti te nt \our r ,"a r"O,i.. * ,_ "'-,, ' fi "iru"pos\ dye hitl.otur al, thr.ads. .\ $o,,ior .o on,ha $iltd.""-,t,,F".";;,i,A.elalc Rajon ne(J. d sp.,.i!t d)c, \lunotonr \o,n in,r _,r". "- "_.r'_i,:1,:: @ he,d)c.l \irh eirh, r \aot o. olu, d. cs dnd J\r" _,"., r"..- ;,;;;];;:,rn s,.hcrks an.i shircd n.te,ials ma\ be rec,,rnlind lse(ds mar he r".-!r",i'o '"-,''"'""''""u!d' Rh{inoYhe'I?'kirtu.rds \iI b( colord ''an(lo-blu' 1". lis'r.

^ Read lhc di'ections p[.n on f rd, t.er u, dt(. Fo n\ thta pylrtrrrDrcinp de . o .omt,in:1q di6e(nt cot,r. iau".c,t".n .; ;;. , {.; "; "'liliFabric ni) be ..boil dted,, or dlr.l in th. pashing machine_Dye in ],our ershin8 mchine I1. Read directuns liren on the dl,e paclinge.2, Use enough dye loqour tuateriat and for the amounr oi h.ater neede.l r.'un ll-e machine. 'tuo o, 1,.e. lime. !s mu.h d," t.,";"r ;i;'ih::mcthod 6 for ihe boiled prcccss.3. Danrpen haterial betore pltiing ii in .t!e bath.4. Dissohe drr thoroughl, before a


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TTA(E A COATPRESS--DON'T IRON

11

Utuemittrng presing, cing the righl methodis cssenti.l to a sel iailored eftect. Testtechriques on samples lirst.MOL: Il the garment has been laund-aed and is still daru, press Ging dry &oLFes .loth on the righl stde of material. If$ool is dry appll moishr to the pless cloih{ith a sponge, btuh, or lhin cloth. PressEing a patting moaion. Do not ano{ the nqnio stand in one spor for y tenglh of tine,as its inprint nay slb*. \ Idl should nolbe presed entrrel, dry.

For sG, hec ed pleats, nlace the drypress cloth (&oz. drill) on the gament.Sponge the press cloth. Press etil garrentstems. liig 4A. Tun prels cloth back fromDrcssed d@ and slap the sleaming mterialqui.ldy sith Fress block. Fig. 48. Rep@tmtil 6die sedion is pressed. Se:G arecua]l} pres*d on wong side and ttq or

RAYON ald SILK: Press on the wongside \lilh a wam, neler hot iron, unless a@tton press clotb or a shet of uglazedpaod is plaed htween the tuon ud fabric.Motsture must be applied autimly if ai aI,as $me Mtuials wate-spot. Dry dssue orwapping paper n oft.n be @d safel, {hoa drd! cloth wt{d rEke spots.

!'EL!tsT, CORDUROY and other PilefabriG @n be pressd as shom in Fk. 5Aand B. The iron is Dropped beiween trcblocks and h@ted. A wet press cloth isplaed oler the ironing plane The matertalto be steamed is dra{n oaer the stDingpress cloth ith the wong side 10 the presscloth. lt is tho dried on a flat suface.Asid 6nger printing and omdine thematerial hile it is damP.ff a lehet or wre bodd is a)ailable, ln)fabric, Dile surfa@ doM and Dress as forA fairly satis{actory hor@mde subsh-tute for a !laet board can be mde of . thick

D.d of several layeis of @tton or,(D1, reth aDtee ol ,elleteen lace uP on to!.


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12 EXTENSIO\ LEAFLET NO 62THE RIGHT PATTERN

\,,t--. 'll.ji,.t:._, :.t.1.|i /.: ''t i i' ri:f- r, . ,!l I/" -r I i il

I1ii,iltill't-,' i, rliill

ijrrril- lr" I

i slyle slmilar to one lou hale sor! an.lfound satislacio4 is a salcr guide for Jouoat than somcthirg "nes an.l djt{eient,,.Llnless },ou a'e cxpert, harc time, and abudgcl nargin for exrcriD.ntation, J-ou M}aroid disaplonning rcsults if rou coD, roeme cxtent, efiecis tou llale tried o(1. Toaloid tlat "homemade ltuk," choo* srytes)c{ hale tried ixd lound becotuing.Shoulder and silhouetie liDes are basic.Choose rour most becoming ones. Classicboi, chesterfrcld, or 6lted rccfer sl!-.tes arealnDst ageless. l'ig. 6 nrd 7. ?lbse {,jrhmedi@t size @llars, slceles, and lap.ls, anormal athseye and shoulder tine, andmoderaie or no flare, arc a slfe choice.Dressmalier slyles Niih nolelil etrecls ar.Dore ditricult to bake and predi.t r.sulis.Decoratile dctails are the lcasi inrlDiralt,Pociret shapes, bullonhole placings, olarsand lapels.an easil, be changed. Cc.ter_back s.ahs and @at-tails 6n be elimiutedor lari.d in olher waJ_s.

A good paitern is a good siart. Buy onetou an lse more than once $ ihar )ouhavc a chance to get beyond lhe er!rihentalstage. Choose a t$o{ie.e slee\e panern,or a narow or medim+idlh sleele_ It6ts and $etus better ttan a one-piec..Paitrn and maierial choice go hand inhand. lf you tue buyin! nes haterial, jletlour paitern irsl. If it is a make{Le. andlou are nol reducing ihe size much, ihe newpad.rn lines Nill ne.d to tre similar io ihoseoI ihe old coat. For e&mpte, it ma), bennnossiLrle to exlracl a size 10 pri.ess coatlrod a si,e 12 box coal. Old ragtan sleelc.orls tu,r Dot suppl! cnoagh tuteriat for as.lin ileele stjle vitioul maling it shorler.Urith n.$. Daterials, y.ight, $.arr. andIabric design sh d tre l.ft in mi.d yhenchoosing a patteh. Plalds an{i stipes aredi{iculi tud sonclimes inpossible to tualchif tle paitern has man} picces aDd nolell!lines, espe.ially currcd seams. pilc fabrjcsdo ,ot alyar_s ptess easily, s. aloid sb,les$ilh mny seams for smh tertures.\-,,u bud m.isurlm.nr. notJ sjze you buvin ! ''Rc!d)-Mid-.' is your luidc. Buisinc! fiesh is mor e v.riaDlc than ..framc,,, rhebust measurehenl is an uniatisfactorl pui.le


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AKD A aOr\T 13to the best size patlem lo. mauy $omen.Tr, buling tour paltein according to thetuclsureFent taken si(lly around thebcdl at armseye lcrel. l.iC. E. For anysize under 44 ad.t ?r/ to thir a.tl btrJ. Fri.rnseccordin!to this size. Forlhos whoheasure 44l/ or mor.. add 3 .r 4// rn afti!..t the bcst Iitiilg paltcrn size. This usual]lircs a more acc!6te guide lor bulnrgDatter. sizcs tfian llre bust measue.

$romens 32 to 52 bosiMisses :0 io201rs, or bust 28 to38Jr. Miss 11,13 and 15 or hust 29io 33Girls 6 t01]l or breast2! to32chirdrens and nfants N to 6 -Lil{e Boys I 1o 6 or chest 20 to ?4Bols - 6 to 16 or chest 24 to 34Mers 32 to 50Siudy,our patteh. Chect pallern de-siEn and measuremenls befor. r-ou cut.Your patterD tu} suit )ou and }roe

roteriat "as is," or ,-,ou may prefer minorsize o. design chDges.Fashio. dippings should be helpful in relating ,our malerial and pattern andindilidu.lizing the style. lAik for Dockels add fastening details, ton slilchingand other decoralile stitchings, braid, cords, quilting, and Iff a6d }elrci trim-mings. Pla, as d.iniiely as possible before lou cut-tdeltify all pattem pie@s. Soit out sections to b used. Group basic andtrilmiryi piees and decide if the' suit yos as the]' are, or if they rced sodecbange. Bacls, Ironts, lacings, sleeles, and co,lar seclions are basic and usuillvDes,en \ilrjaljons, Faci,g and col!:r seclions ha] b cdi $ider or narro*crthan the palterD alls for, to suil the $eiEht, weave, and material aQilable.Facinls snould be 2" or more $ide ai the shoulder seam and as long as the oai.For ease of .orstruclion and a belter il, the lacing should NOT be cdt *ith theTdmmine fiec.s such as cufls, pocliets, bqitonholes, and beils mrsl be cut 1osuit the resre and anr, ra,rric desiq.. They ar al$ dependent for size on theweight .n.l lhiclolcss oi th. .oaling, These de'ails tue Gually cut the samegrain of the loods :s the bod} sedn,rs. ll tuat be saier to postpone cnlling themuntil ifler all otter seclions are cut and the coat desiln ,isualjzed h.re cjearly.Check Orerlap. This ca, be adled to mal:e a $.mer coat, or subtracted, ifmateri.l is limitcd cr a ligller *cight @at desired,e.mpdc measurements sitlr a coa1. Patt.n measu.edenis ma, be comDaredNith yo( o$n before cutti6g. It is m(ch safer and less conJusing, hoPerer, 10clre.k pattern measurelrents with a coat - pretrabl, of similar size, seighta.d s1]le as the o.e )on are making. Although thin paper patterns sometimeslo.k misleadrnlly lar:je, the) are uslally fouDd to agre $iih the measuiementsol a coat. Fi!. 9A and B, Mcas&ements to be checked are:


14/48

EX!'E\SIO\ LEAFLET NO. I Ii2IEnslh front, from shodder seams atneckline 10 hemBack. from shoulder kam r.eckline to heft

Slee\e, alobg flndeEm seamline\iridth - Bust, tuound bo.ly aboui 3'l below lo{est adhole c(!eIIi!, tuound bod,L about ?" beloy

Sleeve, around tud at upper arm,elbo{ and loser arfrrulosancc B sure this is ample. HeavylM*-sear. materlals tuayrcquire t" or horeAllo$ance If ,ou m$i plan oD a :rlct-dosn. ho* much.nra s.ill tPneeded, and hoe side a heRsill tfiis garment standlPerlorations- Disiancc lrom froni faci,Ascam. T$ice this meas6e-ment minls I" for *am allo$-a.ce vill gile the amount of

CHECK FABRIC PROBLEMSBETORE YOU CUTCutting and narlin8 a coal ror constructiorare fully as imporiant and Lime .onsmingas a.) oiher Dhase of lailori.!. Exaninelabncs in a g@d light.

\\'ool coalings are 54 to 60" *ide and areusuall, lolded double silh ihe rigtt sideinside. Be sure that vrong and ght sid.s,straighi of the goods and nap are identitied_I1{ill be easier to cut and assemble thc oallf ihe anong side is marked on ihe straightgrain *ilh cbalk or basting and an arorpoiniing in 11r diredni.s oI the nap.If there are any damaged areas, f,arkrhem clearl, on the wone side oI coatingusing chalk or basting to make them easie.


15/48

}IAKE A 'oA1'Nap: Cut coating vlth the nap runningthe same way in all se.tions. Inmedtm and short naD materinls,it should ru uli. Matk the dlrec-lion eith affo+. t4ng p labricstue cut witb Mp ruminE dosn.Teill: Cut sith twil tuin8 lrom upperlefa to lower rigli.Plaid Space in becomiDg relation 10 theChecks figur and to seam joinings. Ifand the eme moiif ros throughSlripes: ,ratching notches, designs villusually rutch. Clip or trimsehges if they sill interfere sithihe efieci of conslrtrction.True mterials so thal tbearlr are pedecllystratght. Fold all maledals or, iI Eamenl isa remke, atra.ge all *ctions eith RIGIITSIDES TOGLTHER. Pattems are pla@don the saong side o{ ahe material, s 16atconstruction m.rks on be more usable.Iiy out all necessary Dattern sections beforecutttng. Fi8. 10. Marktngs that indicale theposiiton lor ihe st.aight of the goods should

be placed e\a.ily on ihat gain. Coats villnot lit, ha.!, or $ar wcll if cua off srain,

15

CUT ACCURATELYCoal sectio.s qn be 6tted togelher *ith aminimum oI efiort and .lifricdly if you . , .

Cut and ha.dle a[ coat sections in pairs.Keep all tike coatine lintag, inlerltning andintedaci.g sections pimed in paits wilhright sides together until ,ou aie ready toassemble the oat, This practice vill saletime- endless con{usion and mistakes inWeight patterrs in place rath.r than pin-f,ins them. Fig. 11,\. This speeds up altera-tions in hens ard seanN, Mrktng @rstruc-tion lines and culiinE. lt s hed on patternsto pi. tlr.m 10 heavy labrics and sometide.

thlows the tuaterial ofi erain. To insue in-siie and outside sectioG ftting weu, as v(llas ease of cutting - cutCoatings -using paper pattern as aguideLininjs -uth coating seclions forpattemsInterlinings bI linine sections

U\


16/48

EXTENSION LDAPIET \O. 1IJ2Interfacings th emc size and grain !sthe coal lacing, coltar adunderfacing, or jf more re-infor.emcnt is nec.led. use

coaling fronl and back asPalterns-Cul coating 1itsr, Mark all qtring and@nstruciio. Iines carendly. The marringdelice nce.led depends .n hos long it isneeded as an aid in thc construction ofthe gafrent, and hos $cll thc haterialshoss or hol.ls the mark. Tailor's chalkor pencil qn be used if thet do nor mrthe labric, 'laild tacks oI &rnnrg c.tion,pins, basliog, pressing, and.utnotches atlhale a DIa.e. Cutling lines 6nd notches.an usually be marhed nith chalk. Pinthrough paltern Nrforaiions to markseams, .larls, llicLets, and center frontnedorations. Fig- 118. Thcn remoreTrue up cutling lines using ta dstick orllark shaight scam lines $iih chalk orbaslinls using yardstick or square forCut $,ith shenrs. Ii seanB tu. crookcdand choply the itupriot of this iregularitl$i,l ror l1E etr a. A "!inked" finish is*asted i. a tined coat. Furlhermoredrssmalter pinl.i.E sheas $ill be ddtedand spruDg if used 10 cut healr or med-Mark enter lroni, tuse].e, sieeye topand rcckline a..l c{nhr notches silhtailor tacls madc of darming cclton. Fig.uD. Sucn mrks *i11 su.Lile as ting as.e.ded. Cenler front lacks are left in thelardent until after ihe buttons are se$edon as.n aidin fitting ard placnrg luitons.Armsele and nccklinc notcles my beort outward it such indicitions $ill lastNlark Dockels nnd buttonholes $ilhchalk, irilus t.cl,s or baslir!,NIarft dais $ilh single pjns th.ougnpaltern pedoratio.s, As $on as gar-tuent is cul Din tluooah ftier 1ar.r otcoalnre. Alter tailor tacks are complelcd,*patate coating sectio.s and seture pins.These e in position lor pinning daris inplac as mn as lining is oi.

a.-1i''J:llt


17/48

fIAKE r\ COAT 17CollaG, cutrs, bullonholes, pockels ald sometibes faciflg siz.s and shapesshould be Mrked out orelull) to suit the ihickness, {,ea}e and design of rhe@ating. Ctreck on stlle aml size ol these inishes i. radr-toleear garmelts

similar to the coat you are raking. The colld size nar need to be laried if.@ting is thinner, thicler or stiffer {En the t}pe th. patten was designed lor,Yo ma, need to tuake one or more irial buttonholes or pochets in order io workout the size and t,pe most hecomnrg to your p.oposilions and to the iabric andstyle of coat lou are making. Se page 23 lot conshtciion details.COLLARS - Srandard classic styles ii best if upper collar seciion is cul uthenter ba.k on lenglhsise stEight of Smils af,d ihe same rap directions. Theunderlacing is seamed and thai seam cst on a true or definite bias and thc inter-fd.ine cul nn J lrue hrac folJ.FABRIC BUTTONHOLES If l)ossible, cut one strip long enough io jncludeall buttonboles. 'Ihis shorld be 2" liDger th.n the lenEth of tlt buttoDholegroup dd 1" {ider {En dteeter of bulloc 1o be used. If buttons are loo larapart lor ilris plar or material is insufficient cut individel faci.es about 3"side for each butlonhole and 1" longcr ihan button diameter. Mai.hitg o.contrasting grain c. be used.LOOP BUTTONHOLES - Cui pie.s 2" lide and 3" or nbre lor8 for eachlmp or cql ! strip lone enough to make several loops. This my be cut on the

straight or true Di6, depending on th. va, the ffiterials lurn. toops will redbetier cut on ih. straight,BUTTONHOLE POCKlllll look like large size bullonholes, are easy io tnnke,and are use.t in man) typs ol garme,ts. In thin or Eedium {ight datendsthe entire pocket can be @de in one piec. and of the @aliqg tabric, Cul thisl" $ider than the lrim eEect aDd about 2 r/8 tines tbe deDth of the pocket.For a 4" pocket a 5" x 8" d.ce of fabric {ill do. Matching or a onhastinggrajn an be ukd.FLAP POCKETS lake liitle maierial, are a perennial slyle falorile, a.d Gu.llllool $ell- ln heavy coatin! ile pieces are necessary for eich pocket.Fiap .- I @aling and 1 lining sectioni aflow 1" for seansFacing 1 .oating section 2" lo.ger than finished flap br 3" wideLi.inra 2 seclions 2//qlder than finished flap and 2" longer than pocketI' lrght veighl coating, only three pieces per pocket are needed, one flap sec-tion and lwo hing sections cut of .dli.g.STAND POCKETS take the least miterial, but stlle .nd constructior ate

''tricky." Coating Mieri.l eno{gh for ihe ' stdd ' is needed. One liring se.-tion 2" $ider thm the pocket opening aad twice its deDlh and a getreroc seamaUowance is also necded.

PATCH POCKETS Mor natedal is rceded .lthoueh patch pockets on bepieced in may deoratile {ars. Tnis irE is more elusile from a siyle andsuhabtln, 10 garmert standpoint, thrn ee oiher styles of Dockets. For thesidplesl trpe, .ut one coatiDg piee allo{ing lot a top hem and %" seams, andone lining section for ech pockel.


18/48

18 EXTENSION LEAFLE'I' I\O, 162cUT Ux"l\GS using.oating sectjons as pa0ens lo irsure lhirg being exactillike coaiidg. True edses .arefully. iueasure cenler back tenglh of coaiing andrefold $itll rjght sides tosether. ReDress, if necessar!. r1ss uder a ,,, orvider lold alons crease lin. to allo$ for stack needed arong ccnier back of lnri,g.Harc fold as lrng as @ating centr back, Cnt back $itir sla.k tot.!. Use lacingad o2t Lo,t to oork olt lrant lining seciions es fouous:LaI .oating tacing *ilh inside seam along tlhing selr.g.s and straight grainmatching. OutliBe top .une, Meanue in 1//from this Une aml the lining se!]age, ts.in{i facing in to this line and &a$, Iengthwif *am linc. ptace coali,gfront o. facin! sitl front seaG matching. Mark around coaiing. Reaolecoating aDd laci"s seciions and cui.'nle recipe is "tront lining = siu .nd shape of oating hont size an.l shapeof coating tacing + a l', seam allo*ance.,,

CUT IN?ERLININC usirg linjnE sectionsas patierns. lnt..li.ings can tre padial orfi te,gih. 'Ihey ma, rarr_ from 2'a belovthe Ioler cwle of the artreye to a hem,s{idll shorter than tlrc liring. Sleele inier-linings should end above the elbow line orLrarelr underlap the.utr line. Fig. 12. Cuiinier,ining fronts, back, and sleeles likelinings, but shorler, \o centetsback loldis needed in the if,terlining. Darts are en-tirelt cul out aloDg s.am lines or cut allos-

CUT INTERFACINGS using the @atidEfacing and collar lnderfacing ior patterns.Or if a lar!.r rcinlorGment is needed- usethe @atin! front and lacing and the bac&.A.) darls are enlnelJ., cul oul ot inleriacingsor o'1 allo$inq %" scam. F,a. 13-

2.

3.

NINE TAILORING POINTS1, COMPLETE COAT AS SOON ASPOSSIBLE ]$.TER CUTTING. coaiNG fabrits ierd lo streich aloDg the dte.lges il allorved to remain nnslirclEdlor anr' lensth ol tnne.Do LI KE JOBS AT ONE 'l ltr1E. Cha.sing processes talies tihe and effort.So sire time b, doing as moch of ea.h liird of @nslruction rs possibt.at cne inne, that is, .utling pi.ning stay-stitchjng baslin! pressingctc. The order of conslructio. d.soib.d in the fotlo$ing paragraDhs mayGROUP LIKE COAT SECTIOIiS in orddb .nd logial piles lor assem-iring. A co.l $ilh ils lini.:: a.d possible irterlining and nne(aci.g sec-dors an be a conJusinE ard erEperatina game.t to l)ut togeiho. youcaD etsih get lost i. a maze oldeces if ro! are nol ordert! and s$temali..

INTER FACi


19/48

IVIAKE A COATSo, until you are read! 10 assemble the 8a.ment, keep all parrs oI coalingsedio.s ptmed $ilh right sides logeiher. Keep all ouier and innerfronts. backs, slceres. and such accessorl pieces as collars, pockets, but-tonhole and l'.lt sections grouped each in their separate piles. If annnerlning is uscd, plae ea.h ihterlinif,g section wilh iuzr side relt totlre correspondrng lining secltoo.4. \t'OR( EASILY NITII MATERIAI ILAT on table to alotd dragging itoul of shape, Tliiri construction poinis through and hare them dght thetust time as ripping ma] strelch mterial and $asies ttme.5. FLAT FINISHES such as piped or looped butlonhcls, flap, stand orbuttonhole pockcts, abd ddts shodd be coq,leted as far as possiblebenm coat is seamed. Darts are pinned at dght an8les to se.m ltnes,pressed lightly, and seaft line marked and basted6. HANC COAT @rctully after conslruction is stdted Do rot fold.7. PRESS ALL SEAMS THOROUGHLY as soon as they are stitched Seepage 11. Seam should be pres*d open wherever possible to avoid thebulk o! olerlapping materials. Elccss bulk should be clipped from corn-ers. under sams dd inside hems.8. ALL SECTIONS HAVING FULLNESS to b eased shot ld be stitched$ith fulled side underneath. The sesing ru.hine feed dogs $ill full theun.ler sction as ihe stit.hin! pio$esses. The pressue scre\t mav need10 be loosened to siitch thick seams satisfactorily.9. "STEP" SDAMS TO RELIEVE BULK, io postpone tlEt lhreadbde shin,se.m. and to insure a solter *am line wherever t{o seam thiclinesses tuepies*d is ihe same direclion, Tdm sean edges so lhat no t{o erd o. th esne line. Inside sean ed8es shoukl be naro\ist.

THE REINFORCEMENT STORYReinforcemenis ate needed on certain seams and in *ctions of a coat to gilethe garmenl "body", heh keep it in sbaDe, and as an aid to lithng. Some sertions or seam lines are reinforced as $on as a larment is .ul, others 6n beafter scams are basted. Darts may hale to be stitched before i.lerfacing rein-lorements are applied.Star-slitclring is hachine sliiching made through a single thickdess of fabric.Stitches shoql.l be iong eDoulh so thal the under ihread qn be drawn up tInecessar) bur n41 so long that it shilts lrcelt lt serres t{t puposes dependingon its pi.cing in rclation to the seam lines.1. Piaed erxctl) on lhc seam line, il is an aid in fitting one se.tio. of thegarment 1o another, or to the indi dual All sleele tops, vokes, .ecks,$aistlincs. and $merimes elbo*s. are sta]-stitched on the seam line.Sleele tops are stay stitched behien double and single nolchcs. Iflultness is e\cessit! iwo lin.s oI stitching U8" apari aid in easing inftrllness. Drss or blouse sleeves are 2 or 3" l ger than the armhole.

Coats aDd suit jackels harc 3lr lo 6 or more incles to ease in2. Stay-stit.hing 1,/8" from cut edge is useful in keepine loose weat mater-ials from raveltins, and sucl malerials as jersey, organdl, etc., fromorlins. Fi{. 14.


20/48

EXTENSION LEAILET NO, 162Taping is applied io front lacing and ihls-ele seatus. If fabtic is veta streich, orcoat ma}' receile hard rear. all seanr li..rmay be laped. One-eilhih inch $oven oi,

ton tape or a narro$ sirip oI cotto, setlage isused. All tape musi be slNnk th).oughlyb.fore applling, Seim Iines may be tapedbefore or afler baslirg seams togethcr. Fig.15 sho$s application. 1{ the tape is stiiche.Inear one edge $ilh lhe sidcsi palt alayfrom the seam line, the seams {ill be lessb!lky.Intedacins is used in tailoied ears oteft fabrics lr'here more "body" or tutuessis needed. Tlis in.er stay is used insidecoll.rs and cufis, and beiveen the facing*ction and the front of the coal. tt is $me-iimes useful as a ba* for mdking butlon-holes and as a rei.forcetuent to strengtlrcnthe bulto.hole delail in rarelly fabriG. Sofi,medium-s.iehi nuslin, $iggin cioth, otdIine!, la$n, or orqandv is used. Selectiondepends on $eight of .oatihg.interlacings husl be thoroughly shrunkand sizing remored belore appllng them.'ltey d. appl,ed to the underside of thefrort of ihe coat and to the undrrfacing of lhecollar. FiE. 16 shows irter{a.ing aughr rothe froni of coat {ith permanent diagoul

Pailding stitches, Fig. 17, hold rhe i.iet-facing nr Dlace and a i. shaping ihe oat.In ippljtug this slitch, u* a nne belkennecdle (N).10). I lold jnter{acing lpDeuosrand roll and shale @llar or Iap.l in the dne.-tion il shoul.l lake in ttc linished gameht.The ,nore ro{s and the shorier these slilch.s,the more bod, the collar and lape! $iU hara.d the betlcr it $ill hold its shape,ti

r'-'


21/48

DARTSDarts at shoulde6 ed {aisi line are corDleled belore or alter the addition of inteFfacings, depending on $hether se.ming theinletlacing at the sa.re time siitrens the seam

Coating darts at mchine stitcled, slit,and lrimmed lo a sasonable *am andpressed open. r'he slcere custion is EefulLining, interliniDg and inierfaci.g darts aienol machinc stitched. In bettel gatmenlsthel are lackcd or ciughl by hand o thaieament laycrs adjust more smoothly.LiDing dads are basted, pressed andtacked $ith (oss stiiching or fealher siitch-ing al aD Doints of sirain aftd the coat isInterlininA and iDlerlacinE darts are cui

out along eam lines or %" inside these linesaDd @tch-stitched logcther in pla@,For a {ell tanetcd dari -- pin darts at rishia.gle to *am line Eing marker pi.! Pressdart fold. True uD seam line $in! squarc'Baste, Fit. Then stitch fis. 18 A, B, and C.Si.ce it is diiiicult to stitch darts \t'ith anelenly tapered sqm, especially in mediumand thick fabrics, rurk en.ts of ddts uithtm pins, one at end ol angle and one placdlrom 1/'8" 10 3./4" below thts. Stiich ddtseam from top do$n on sttaight line to pinone. ften stitch along fold to pin tvo.

BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLEAND POCKET DESIGNPiped buttonholes as $eU as $me bDes ofDockets are more easill made before theoat is sealed. De$gn details .a. bc set-lled as eon as the co.ting is cut.Pin up coai froni on aDprorihate hc',lineio get a rough idea o{ proDortions, and t4 iton. !'ig. 19. Pir oat front to shoulder anduDderarn sead Check butlon and pocketplacings. The actuai butlons for the finishedcoa! are needed or at least somelhing of thesahe sik and te\iue.

SDace butlonholes qrefull'L so that thel@Dform to good desi8n and the current@&, Fot classic strles, the lo*er button-hole is usually on a line sith the lo$est rosi

F*-J -[ifg

T

-h-=l


22/48

22 EXIENSION LEATLET \-O. 162tioh for pockel openings. $rork out one or more lrial buttonholes and propor-lions lor patch, flap or sladd lochets. If there is an) urcertanny about the sizeneeded, makc flaps, stands, or patch Nckets a littte large at first. lI they DroletM latee, thc) an be reduced in size $ilh lillle $aste of mateial-

HaDd-vorked .r tuachi.ernade Duttonholes are used on garments for oldetbols. II scll donc, tb.' atc suiled to rer) tailored gannents for $omen. \Vork-inE bultonholes on $ool requires considerable skill and praclice and should notbc allcmpi.d i, \ou doubl \ou ibilil..PiDed buttonholes o. be used oD all coats for romen and eirls and nay beused on .oats for rry Iittle boys. Thq are eas) to make, require no lieat skilland look $ll lroh a desig1 standDoint on hoth tailored and dress garments.In "mkeoer" nircd butl{)nhoLs are useful in concealing th. Iraled out edgesol ihe "old" $0.k.d bullo.holes.Pockels add to the efieciileness of Drost .oals. Coat st,res, materials and6gure DroDorlio.s influence the tlpe and sia oI the pocket chosed aDd ils placing.The size $ill rar) nith the bulkiness of the Sament. Pockets should be Iargeron thick malcrials ihen on tlif, malerials elen in the same size ard sllle of co!t-In .dult size gdnenls, lock.l oDeninss are nerer Dlaced lo*er than about1" belo{ the bip bone line. 'lhe, may be plac.d abore this !ine.For children's coats a losition 2// or more above the wnst line looks well pro-DiagoMI or 1rti@l placings are figured by lo.ating the middle loint as de-soibed aboae. Ilorizontal Dockets are lined up at right aneles to the @nterAroid phcing Nckets lm nee the center front. Tle effeca is usualb betterif they are .lose to the underarm seam, Mark the pocket posilions arefullv$ith iailoE chalk or basting.

MAKE YOUR OWN BUTTONSCoaling or trim naterials @n be used forcoleri.gs. Use pearl but1otrs, 1looden but-lon Drolds, or rings of Dlasti., bone or metal

Cul ci'cular pic@s of the colering materiala liltle less than t$i.e the button dimeier insize. Iis.20A. Use a strorg doubie threadand galher .tuund or orer.ast the circlnFfcren@ edge o{ iltc orering. IiE.20B.

If truttons or molds are used as a base, usea Dadding of colton or {adding iI necessry.Fig. 20C, Coler with labric picces and draeup Saihering. Use lhis same read to sev

o


23/48

ITIKD A COAI 23If rings are Lsed, .ut seleral small discsof cotton baltt gs or oati.gs just largc

enough to 6t inside ihe ring. l'ig. 21 A and B.Th.se suppll |Ire bltton padding and Gn bethft or tai. Cover bulton sith .oaling.ltscs.Dra* 1lp gattering. Fig. i2IC and D. Use aseif or decorative thread and saddle stitchiside ihe nng tne thoueh eniire butto.thickness. Fig, 2rE.

Fu buttons o. be tude of scraps of fur,slret vadding, llith old buttons or $oodenbutton molds as a loundation and a doublelength of trilled lape lor the sh.nk. Cutcoiton dotir or slieel $adding the size ol lhebutton top. Se$ ihe h\o cut ends ol ihetvilied tape to this and draw the looped endihrough the hole lroh butron or but1olmold top to thc uderside. Sew pad.lingsecurell io iape on 6d.rside ol bdn,n. L'uta circle of fu latge enough to cohplelel,.orcr mold. Orerost or.rochet aromd cutedge or ship a nanos tape to this edge and.La{ it togelher orcr builon, !'asten *curely

BUTTONHOLESPIPED BUTTONIIOLES: Trial button-holes should be worked out in the oatingbefore nDking them on the garment. If aninlerlacin! is io be used in the coai front,lrv out one buttonhole efiec! or an interfacedsample and one {iLhout, to see whethel ofnot the intedacine mkcs the butlonholel@k chcy- If it does. do not sliich but-ionhole lacing through iDlerfa.i.! Cut outrecla.gular slots a little larger thd the sizof the botlonhole stitcting 1fom the inter-facing un.ler each Lrutto.hole- Checl( iri.l

(1) Size of the stikhed reclangle n.eded1. mal an itlraciirc efl.cl. lifclassic stllqs this should be is.arovas $ili hol.l. The orly exeption tothis is thc large no!.lty buttoEholeuscful in iemodelling old Satments as$ell as bcihg decorrtile !'ig.22.(2) The lenlth of stiicb.s .ccessatt for$ear. Tiey should be shrd for

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I

EXT'NSION LEAFLET }iO. If2(3r Disiarc. oi butlonhole trom lac-ing seaDr. For classic stlles, shencdt is tastened, th. button rimslrould 6tue 3,/8'/ to 3/4// frotu rhe,acing seam depending on size of

garment ed thicloes of fabri..Sev one ol the coat butrons on ascmD of naterial and ir}l the b6!1- \Iatk buLlonhole posiiion on theintedacin! or sro,g side oI coatusi.g tailo$ chillr, bastirg, or pinsand a nat melal square. Dra* .l.(l.ler indicating ienelh and spac-ing. The r!!gs oi the ladder tue

the top li,e .1 buttoDholes. Fig.23A.2. ts ste or Din ihe buttonhole stri,in no.ilion lrith lighl side 10 dghtsidc of coat. [ig. 238.3. Stitch bulionloles on an eractrc.i-a.gul line usiEg a rery shortstitch. Hav the $tue .umber ofsiit.hes al each end. Count theesix 1o l$elve stilches are needed lorstrength aooss the reclangle ends.4. Cut brltonhole facing jn bet$eneac| b(ltonhole. Fig. 238 (op).;. SI.sh along enler Iine ot rcctangiltnough bultonlbl.{acing, ilter_facing il one is {sed, and coat-to eithin about 1rl, of ihe recta.gteends. Cui diagonall) elacfly toeach @rnei. Fis- 238 (toD).6. Pull lacings through stits and lJressharyly on seam line. Be swe thatall ornes are smooth. pin thefou @rners of each builonhote iotte noning board to hou rhem raut,so that scah Iines $ill.ot curve ordrav jn in prcssing. Press. Fie.24_7. ftess loner iacing


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ILAIIE A COATt{..n folds, Cross-stitch pip-ings together e thal the) dodo not sepdate as the coal is$oiked on. Stitch ther bJmachirc or hand, back-stitch-ing the i.lerted pleat edclipp.d corners as shoM inFis. 26,

I-OOP EUTIONHOLES; Makelhese oi naro$ slrips di bias or shalEhlgrain faDric. In $ool oais, saaigirtgain is Lretter as it is le$ likell 1o

l. Cli strip 6 naios .s possiblebeing sure to estimate theamount il Nill narro{ in stretch-ing. Iroft 1 to 2// $idths areSlilch a Diece of sking or natowso!e! tape secueb to one eldof the $ao.8 side of the fabdc.llart lape or slri4 ai leasttwice as long as the fabric slripro proyide reinforcement to theFold fabric striD tcDgthwise, riththe srong stde o , nnd wilh alength of slrin{ or tape inside.FiE.27B.lare the seam open X 10 %"at end +here string is aitached.Stirch $e @rd sean, slretchingrhe f.6ric. e that there $ill beno danger oI the machinestitchs bruking .s the cord isused. Fig. 27C,Trim lhe se.m. Fig. 27D.

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26 I]X'I'ENSION LEAFLET NO, 1626. Pull striDq or tare to h!'n cord i.-side out. The lenglh of lape al-lowed for streaEthening llie @id isNll.d inside in lutning cord. !'ig-

Cut Iocps desired lergth, and plaeso that length$ise seams are on lheirside line nnd almost elen viththe lacing edge ol gametrt.Insot loors in seams, Iig. 28A.MEre that is impossible, nnishends {ilh a scroll or t1risl. Fig. 288.TAILORED \!'ORItED BITIfON-IIOLES MaliDg hDd-sbrhed buitod-holes qls for praclie.'lhe}l de suitablelor ver r.. tailored coats and suits lor Mmenand gids althugt piped bulionholesusrally look as yell. For little tols'clolhjng lhey are, of.ouse, the or1! tr!.iight for sizes 2 or 3 and u!.\t/orked buttoirloles aie mde as alinal detail alter the .oat is compleledand pressed. Butlonhole tyist or otherhear] thread, a shade or tM ilaJker ttm..ating is needed for sorkidg and a''siq)'' or "streding thread" for pad-in!. Use No. 6 betseen needle, sharpscissrs for cutting and a stiletlo, orange

Mark buiionhole, rig. 29A, andmke tso paratlel Iines of mchinestitching along this line. Ilarestilches shorl and lines close to-Cut tuttonhole, Use scisers, slil-etlo or a{lto punch and clip a smllround hole at the button end, !'is.29B and C.Pad. or as it is called, "sirand" thebulionhole wilh the gimp. If gimpis not aviilable use about fourlerglhs of t$ist to make a bp.. A1)4 1o 1% Iard leDgrih of thread $.illbe cnougll Faslen lhis gimp se-cutely at the i"side endof tire bul-torhole. Hold gimn on top of theg nent but Eder the buttonlolstilches as the, ire made. Seoreit $ilh a pin at ihe inside e.d.$'ork the buttorhole use a threadIong erough to .otuplete the button-

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N1AKE A COAThole as splici.g is ditridll. A % yaJdlength is .no(eh for a mcdium sizebuliontole. Hold garmenl *ith burto! end at the !eft, I.asten ihread in-lisibl) at the Io$cr ighl hrnd ornerof the brtto.hole and vork buttonholeIlom lo$.t nght to leli maLing eleletline aro6d the button end. Fig. 29D.Hold buttonhole diagonally orer lheforelinger of the Iefl hand. Wnrkbuttonhole from ri8ht 10 lefl, To stari,bring needle oui al the lower righthand corner. Bri.g the lhread fronihe cle ol the nee.lle under the rDintand to the lelt. Draw the nee.nethrough and a$ay. Fig. 30 shossdetails of the bultonhole stitch a.d thet{isl oI ihe "purl."5. AIter bullonhole is comlJlelely lorkedivercasl purled edges loEether \eithfor or file temlorarl stilctes. Thnlress lhe buttonhole o, a $ell paddedboard alternalel] drasi.g up the gimpand roundiM the button ef,d of thebutto.hole with a sllletto or orange

6. Bar the inside end o{ the bulioDholeusing the gitnD or the buttonholeSTIT CttED BUTTONTIOLES-L coars.healy f.lted mateiials, from tso to six lin.sof machine stitchins, ,laced as closeh as is

Dossible to ea.h oiher, my form the button-hole 6,ish. These Iines are siitched aroudthe place *'here the Duttonhole is io be cui.The bultonhole ii then dt and lhe edges lcfi

POCKETSFour tlpes of ,ockets are used Butior-hole, Flap, Stand and Palch.

BUTTONHOLE POCKETS. Fis. 31.1. Cul Dockt facing 1" {ider than desiredsidth of poclreas and fi,ice .s long.For a 4" @.ket, a 5 x 10" piece ofmaterial may be used, Either hias otshiaight grai. of goods is pemissiblc-2. Crease pocket facing on slort Eiddle.PIa@ sith risht side to right side ofcoat and wilh crease on lo.ket openingline. Pin or baste facing lo coai onoeasedline. Fjg.32A.

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28 DXI'ENSION LEATI-ET NO, 162

4.

9.

Stitch Fockei Ilcing io coat {ithrectr.sular line of slitchin8 the des:redsiz. of pockei trimning and the topline of recta.gle on the .cnier (ease,Bcgin slilching oD long sid oI r.ct-Slash ihrou8h facin8 and coat on cn-ter line betseen stilchi4s to $ithinlr" of rectangle ends- Makc direona!slashes eEctlyto each.orner, Ftg. 328.Pt'll facing throu.qh slit. Prcss on seatulin.. Seam line must lorm a shaDlycr.ased rectangle $ilh aU cornerssmelh bcnre edge inish is a(anged.Bound, l'ip.d or Split s..n 6nishIrom this point on a.y one of threennishes may b. $orked oui. In addi1ion, any one ol these three arrange-menls ca. be w,*ed out $ith a irimon lroth !pp.r an


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!T{I(E A COATFLAP POcKEl Fis.33.1. Cut flal sectioDs o{ double Mol. Ortf Mierial is Iimiled or coating \rryheala ca! one coatiDg and o.e liningfor each flap. The coating must belutled onio ihe lining $ thal th. lininedoes not sho{. To do this pin liningand coating flap sections in lhe middle$ith right sides together. Pin seamstogelher at lwo ends and along nnishedflap side, Dinning corners and *am endsnrd. Then pi, in bei$en silh pirse\.ctl) at right angies to seam. Baste

silh shofi stitches eractly on the Dinrcdline and sliich uilh the fulled (coating)stde doM. Seam must be }e,j- turos.FiA. 33A. ftim seah and come8.

2,Tuh, baste and press. Top-slilch, ifPin flap in position {ith linine side up.Plae one lining section direclly ederthis line wittr the $rong side to undeFside of.oat. T lle iop edge of ihe liningshould enend %'/ aboy the flap samIine. tsasL. Stitch flap and linine to.oal, double stilichng en.ts. Fig. 33Bsho$s oai marked lor rDcket pdsitionand flap sliiched to rishl side of coat,This sane stitching secures lining sec-ti6n .n tte trndd ri,le nl ..af.Pin flaD seid uD and ava} from stiichedIin., Arange wDl lacing seclion sithdght side to dlht side of the cort aldone edge close to flap seam line. Sdtchlacing to @at and underlining, itth aline of stitching parallel to, and 3/8" ormore from re flap seam. This stilch-ing an be dore more ac(ralelt silhless Iulling of coat if it is done on [re6derside ol i6e @at. Make lhisstitchin{ about ," shorter tha! flap-slitching. Double stit.h ends. Rig.33Csho{s flap and lacinq sti{ched in Dosi-Slash lbrough liniDg and coal.Bring flaD seam and fa.ing thrcughslash to under side of @at. Pin ends offlap seam line to th. noning boatd {ithcoat front uons side up. Slip a thincardbo d b.tsenflap and coat. ftessthe facirg seam open as shown inFig.33D. A split seam makes a flatter

4.5.


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3ar EXTENSION LEAi'LEa \"o. 162efiecl. Press fa.ing do$n oyrsenu e&.. The edge firish as shownin Fig. 34D should al'nost nll the opetr-ing under the flar.6. Double machine stitch the two ends ofthis nnish on the coal seclion and alongcrack of th trlming seam. If naaerialis too thick to slitch the ends easilv.slilch trim in pla@ in oach of thelength ise sem orly. Leale 5 or 6"oi macline stitch thread at each e.d iouse in seNing do*n .orners b, hand.i. Doubl stitch facing 10 lining sectton.E. Stit.h se.oDd lining section to ihe flapseatu with one or t$t, lines cf stilchingas shoM in Fi!, 33E.9. Doubl. slilch pochet lininEs together,10. Flap pockels ma, hale linings lopslilched 10 coais as in Fig. 33E.ln this ase lining described in parasraph2 is $metimes omitted.

STAND POCKET Fig. 34.\,Iake th. "slard" double of coating fabric1. Ilark pockcl position.2. Prepde stand as described lor flap .ndbaste in posillon sith righl side to right

Arange linine oler stand *ith rght sideto rilht side of coat and the ctosseisecenter on the pockt Iine- Baste inposiiion. Fig. 34A sho*s the pockeiposition marked, and the sta.d a,dStitch linhg .nd stand to coal $ith tvoparallel ,i.es oI siilching, placed 3/r8"or more aparl. Make Io{e1 stit.hingthrough stand, lining and coaling andeaactly as long as the stand. Make 1oFstitchin! lhrouth liniog a"d coaring onlyaml about %" shorter ihan the loserslilchi.g. Fig. 34B.Slash throuEh lif,ing and eat as shos"in l'i8, 34C,Bi.! lining lhrough slash to u.dersideof coat and lunr stand in position,Fig. 34D.Tum diagoral .ut e.ds of the opennrsso that seams are hidden. Sntch t{oef,ds aDd top s e of seiim io make

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6.


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9.

. MAKE A COATBlind or macNne stitch siand ends inposition. A nuo1{ tape or selvagestrips Ny be placed on underside ofcoat on the Une of sland slitchtng forDouble siitch pocket lining to close ihe

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PATCII POCIIET Fig. 35,1 Piae Dockei lining and coating seclions eilh tight sides logeiher, Stitchtop sem, aith lining held uppermost so @ating 1trI be fuued. L@vemiddle tlird of seam unstilched. Press both ed{es dovn on firing.2. Fold on top hem line, sith lining and @ating righl sides togelher.liPinlining and @ting together in mida[e, Then pin, fulling the coating se.-tion to the lining as described for 0ap. Baste-3. Stitch $ilh fulled side .lo$n.4. Trim, twn, iraste atr.l Dr.ss. If top-slitching is sed, appl) belorc blindstitching to oat. I1 desirable, reitJoice the lnderside of garmenl alongthis line oi stilclring. Use Noven lape, a strip of cotion *lvage or a Fie.eol inleriacing cui yr" laryet lJtun ihe linished p.lch pocket. Bete orstttch this in pla.e and bliDd hem pocket through thts.


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AJler siat-stitching, applrinE intertacings, ed completin! darts, Dockets, and{abric butlo.holes, the @a! is ready to assemble lor 6tling. Pin ati sems atriSht angles io and eectly on stiiching line. In illis $aJ, seams can be markedand basted more easil]'. Straight seams in $@ly materials can often tE machinestiiched over carefully pli@d pinning,

Straight s.ams, e\acu, the sahe widtn in lining ahd coating seclionsj are adimportant faclor in @king a well tailored garmenl. Use your yardsiick oriailor's square, .nd mark ad accurate linc ,or basiins and stitchinr. Baste bv

EXTEIiSIO\ LJTAiLET \"O. 162PIN, BASTE AND FIT

The order of pinning, hasting. and stitchingQries. For a simple ts r rir pdncess stlle, theio[owing is $otkable:Coating - r. Al le.gth*ise *ams in bod,a.d sleeves and, 2. shoulder seams.Lining or combined lining-inl.rlining l.Darts and center back sla.k lold. 2, Atta.hcoating faci4{ to linins. It the back has a neck-lile facing, appl] this to back linin{ seclions,3. AII length$i* seams. 4. Shoulder seaG.Fjt outer coat and lining together lo gauge sized general etrecl. i\ilEre shoulder Dads ateued, pin them in posilion carefully before fit-ti.g. Tr) @at on rigti side out. Pin codi inflotrt aloDg center front tailor tacks.Fit seam lines so the oos{i* 8rai" oI goodsruns straight aoo$ the shoulder blad.s, b6tline- and arounc t6e arm on a line uith ,nder.mtule. The lelgthvise grain of g@ds shouldbe pe4endicul.r to the @r from .itter ihesho{lder seam or bust !ine.


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IIAI{E A COATORDER OF CONSIRUCTION

This laries sliehtly siih the tytes of coats andwhelher or not to!-stitching or coai tails are afealure. See p.ges 4C-43.'$here ih.re is no top-siiiching or coal lails,all coating seass .rceDt the armhole and thefacinglining ate pressed oDen. Thcy arestiiclrd iD the follo(ing order:\IOR}!\L ,qR}ISEYE1, Dats, lndcrarm, and ant length*isc*ams. Press seam orien, 6rsi on thc insideaId then ouiside. Fi!.36.2. Shoulder piess opcn,3. Sleele lengthwise fams press op.nusing slee* dshion. Iig.37.4. tumsele pin sleeles to amhole lbldingsicele to$ard}lor, Pin al right uglcs toseam, Pin matchins nolches lirst. thensleere at underarm seatu. Pin 1oD oIsleele to shoulder seam line. Then diridean.i sui-diride any {ullness 10 bc eased inand dra* up stay-stitching. Basle {ithsiort stitches clactly on piDned seam Iine.

Fig. 38. Baste tape 10 .ni-seye seam lineon coat side of *atu, !'iE, 39. Slitch sleeleside down. Press armeye seam insideRAGLAN SHOI]'I-DIIR

1. Darts, u.derarh and olher lerEthu'ise2. Sleel ieD:'thvise sans. Attach sleercsto coat, firsl pi.ning rutching armhole3. Pin full.ess in and baste in losition withshot, elen stitches. (Shodd.f ranatio,s,I,ig. 40.)


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3! DXTE\*SIO\ T-EAFI-ET NO. 162.1. Tape amhole lreaore or a{tet bastine sleeve5. Stitch $ith fulled side doM.6, Press aimseye seam a ay fiom th. sleeveor open dependlng on cuffell stlles andweighl of Mlelials.

SADDLE SHOULDER1. Dans. undcrarm and other lensth*i*2. Stay-stitch armseye oI coat and sleere onthe seam linc. Fig. 414.3. Pin matching notches. Basie and stitchsleer along the annhole curte tust. Press

ihis pdl of the anlole seam open- CliDif,e.essary. Fig. 41B. Cljp seam al the yokeangle. Pitr, basle, af,d pIess shouldet ex-tension in position a.d then stitch thisseam. Fig. 4lC, The ,oke li.e Part of

this sed My be presscd up under the shoulder saddle, op.n Dr downunder the coat. If pleats or shirrings ate 6*d in the body ol coat, bothsem edler should be pressd up u..ler the sddle seclionI,INING AND INTERLINING

II an interlining is u*d, tust Ia, front, back and slee!.s sectio.s of irterliningon the .orreqronding lining seclioG. If inierlining has a napped side, place ihis

Linings fil morc smooihl,, $fil) and Nith less strain if dlrts arc noi stilched.Leare them basted untii )ou are ready 10 Dut the finishnrg touches on 'mu' c@tand ther tack whereler there is any shain silh three or four qoss stitches orStitch seaG as thoulh the lining-interlining }ere a i$o-plv rn erial. CIiDand press all lining *ams open, excepi for facinglining seanrs. Both edges ofthis de Eessed under thc linins in medium {eighl and open in hea}y tetghluihether or not ad interlining is used, use the follosirg order of as*mbling::1. Attach front and any back @ating facinls 1o lining-i,ierlinirg *ction Formedi(m seight @terial, full the lidng *ction onlo tlle facirg slighilv.

Baste cdefully. Pin and baste any other length{ise seans, then shoulder *ams-


35/48

\IAI{E 1 COAT2. 'Step" al bulky seams. Facjng and lining *ams de alears stepped. llan interlining is used the selm are timmed back also.3. Sem sleere lininss, fuling elbow. Press. Aitach sleele linings to coat

IininS, piming and basting armseye as des(ibed for outer @at sectionSlilcb, dip seams and press.

BUTTON REINFORCEMENTSIf @at material is loose seale or lragile and ltirely to tetu out where buttoE ese$ed, and if thete are no intcrfacing or button stays lor coat, saleguard againsldamase or unnecessary sear by basting tape or a narroe le.lth of muslin uDder

LINING THE COATPress ltnine and coaiing sectioni thoroughly be- (tore basting them together. L

SIIOULDER PADS. These important aidsto ,itli.g are se$.d nr phce belore adjustingthe linin!, Turn coal right side out a.d strokeernsere seams in position. Placc shouldef padsin position ertendi.g , to l" beyond the erdof the shouldo seam. Pin in Dlace from theright side ai both e,ds ol the shoulder seam.Smooth arnsele otr Dad and pin at iront andba.k eirneE so llat they eitend about %" insi dethe sleere at ftese points, Check for 61 a.dse{ in place securely,

,r\Jrange lining and coalirg $itb .ielrt sidestogeihcr. !'or a coat *ith rerrs or a coilertablecollar ihe facing seciion must be fulled to ihecoat around the lapel and doM thc coat front10 ih toD butlonhole- The amount of fullinsdepends on the s.ight and $eave of the coatsaterial and on the roll ot the lapel.

SIIAPE L PEL. Esiimate the amouni olfulling needed lo give a rounded efrect- Pinfacirg to coating at lapel corners, at the neck-line .enter noni point, and !t a Doint eren wilhthe tip buttonlole or end of lapel roll. Dilidcand sub-dilidc until fullness is phned incnoug| to baste smoolhlr. Baste. Fig. 431l toop buiionholes are uscd, in*rt thcm

Tape facing seam from the @nter ftoni atneckline aroud larrel and dom lhe fronl to thefinished hem line. Baste tabe along seam onthe coat side and as near one edge as possiblt.Ha* wide side of iape avay Irod *atu line-

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EXTENSION LEAI'I-DT NO, ]62COLLARSColl and neckiire sc.ms are Dcrer rhe sam.size. A 1{o or three inch urialion is usual.

Conlertilrle collar shlcs ltale coai necklineslarger ilran colla.s. The collar is fitted to $e*earer. The @at neckline is fulted 10 iheollar. Nokhcd lilel styl6 hale collarslager than coat neciilines, Collds areAppb nte{acirg 10 collar undc acing. thcsied crescent shaped Iine in bacl has manyrcps ol sho.t padding siilches to srifen andaid in shaling ihe .ollat. The ouler edgehas less of this detail. Fig. 44A.Full ihe niD collar 1o the underfacine,,inning at corr.rs to block out fullncss as-"hoen in Fig, 44ts, Pi. diliding aud sub-dividing fullress and sholt siitches exactlyon seah li.e. Fig. ,14C, Stiich siih lulledside .lo$h. Trim and step seam. Fig. 44D.Tun collar rjght side oul. Baste qrefdt}'and Fess right side up on cushion, shaDingil. Colld must De thoro(ghly dried ort be-fore it is se.med to the coat or it {,ill gei od

I.s.rt cotlar betseen lining ..d coat.Pin in position, baste a.d stitch as follows:1. a At cenler back, Iin und.rlaci.g tooating and upper collar to lining.b- Pin center fronts rith top 6llarto tacing and under collar to @ar.c Pin sh( der seatu-r ol Iining andeali.! to ffitching polrts of collar.d Diride ed sub-dilidc fldlness un-.il it is adjlsted smoollri.

2. Bastc and siiich collar in position fromthe center fronts to centcr Lracts beine sureseim is generous d eren $ith facin!. A).r, tirl scam gaD in the seam at the noiclconcr is an adrantage nr tnrl shaDing. Lealeaboot a n" Iengih of tuacune stitching threadat center fro.t io use in slip stitclirg this gapafier 6at is turned and prcssed.3. Press tr.crdine seams open, The sleelecushion iLreded bel$een tM ne.idines.ds *ill be uselul. The lront lacingseam line is stitche.t ned and then4, Turn @at and baste lacing seh linebeing crefin tl} hold an, laFI rotedoler ard the rcst of tie seam under.


37/48

NIAIIE A COATCOAT AND LINING ATTACHED

Coatirg and lining sections are ses.d iogethcr6n the inside ,ine alo.e cerlain seatus lo keepthen lrom shifting, Strong thrcad, a doublestrand, a moderately long siitchcs sith oc-asional back stit.hes are used. 'I'hcy shouldbe about 1,/6" fron the sliiched seam, Alta.hscaru in tlc follo*ins ordq:1. Collar from ceDter frort to center back_2. Shoulder fron neckline I{i dmse}.e.3- Annsey. ftom shoulder seah do$n inbacli and doyn in iront as far as Dossible.It is sotuetimes easi.r to siab slilch thisscam in pl.ce from ihe right sid. of the

4. Underarn seahs lrom Mseye dosn onu.deramr scah abou! tsorhirds {!y,Irig. 45.

INSIDE

HEMSSLDDVESNilhout cufis nrterlace boltom of sleeve$ith a bias piecc oI soft. iirm coho. cloth. hetu*idth and Iong enoush lo go aroud sleere.tuiang on inside of sieeve $ilh seah edgeseren and stitcn it ," fron sleele crd. Fig. 46.Turn hem, stroke intefacing id position, andlem sith loose stilches Dlr.ed bet$ccn henand sl.ere. Hold hem doubl.d as lor a naper,v

Tun coat {yo.8 side out Md shole sleeves so ahat Iinings fit coat sleers$iih coating and linins seams malchins .xactly. Baste lining to sleele lerg{!*ise on *am lines ed aroed the sleele about 6,, above hcn. Fig. 46. lflining sems tco tight:t $risi line, rin the seams up as l as necessary io re-liere stEin. Coai sleercs will t$ist ed &av il this step is sligtrted. Blind he'nlining in rusition. Fig. 49,\\'ith cufi hem slccle as des.ribed abole, omitling interlacing-llake a doubL lool or lined cufi using @lld teclDiqucs. Fig. 504. Trnn cutrliniDg bacli abcut ,// ai open c.tge. Fig. 508, l,rcss otr *iih the lining sideq,. Slip-sliich thc cuiJ ends togelher. Fig. 50C. Tun opn edg of ihe ouisldeof crtr !p oler lininA nnd @tch stitch.Slip-stitch cufi to hemed sleek. Fi!. 50D. Use I'rench iachs to secueulip.r e&c to @at at cur.s a.d *ams. Place lac! ,'/ doM lrom the toD edgeSK]RT ] IE}ISllart nnished heh Itue on @atin! and linins. Pin and baste i,r DosrtjoD onfold ed{es. Trim heh if neessary to eren il.Hems may be finislcd nr tvo *ars dependin! on the slyle ol the g.rment,d.pilr ol hem, and seighl of irtelinnrg. Dress @ats, slbrties, and sui! jacketslool belier si!1 a closed hem. Coalr wilh deep lems or heavl inierlinings andqlh bac* pleats ot coat tails usuall! m8i be fi.ished with an opc! hen.


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38 EXTENS]ON LE.{FLET NO. 162OPEN tIDilI lirm weale materialtrry be finished sith slar-slilching,laced about ll'l Irom cut edge. Fig.51A. Use a ionA enoulh machine slltch

s ihat thr.ad c.n be drasn up io helpe6e in fullness. Press hem line NiihGdboard 'n beilteen this cdse andgarmerl before hemming. Ease in tull-ness. Blind hen as des.ribed for slcelean.l as ihou in Fie. ;1B.RareUy Draterials, or $here a morefinished.trect is d.sired, My be linisted*i{h silk seam taFe or a lcnerh of liDingsehagc. rrYess $iih cardboard prclec-tiob. Be sure oating does nol comemor ilran tso-ihirds up on tape or a''thick" hem nill result. Hem $iih aYrnning stil.h. r'ig. 51C.Lininsr sholnd be )r" or more shonerthan coais. Uftere there is an inier-lining, hem ihe lining Lrad( on flns. IIno interlining is used, hem tne [ningbacli on itscll vilh a single or double

tum. Children s coals and rcqh {,orlstlles my hare this hcm macbineCalch lining io coat al hem line, under-arm and other seams usin! long 1ack.!'i8. 5lD,CLOSED HEII sta)-stiich ," ftomcut edge of h.m. Drav @cline slilch-iDe uD iI there is af,y slack. Press pith

Grdbo.rd in behieen hem and @at.Blind hem as dcscribed for sleeve, usiDgIo.e slilches and ocosional back stit.hes.Baste lining to coat about 3" above hemed!e. !'ig. 51E.Turn hrirE hem and Din or baste inpositio.. Ulind slitch in Dlace about % to% inch abore fold e&e. This nrovidesslack neessarv to keeD coat lrotu dras-!'ront fa.ing hems ma, be t(ned on asliglrtly diagonal h1e or turned eren *iththe coat hed. lvhere this line is eren,the facing seam e\tendrng below thelining hem is lelt ralv and otch stitchedas s1b$n in Fig. s1D.


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FACEBaste or pin facing in placc ab0ul

ore inch lrom cach buttonhole.Fiq. 52A. If coat has a lapel, holdii rolled orer as you Mrk $ thatbuttonlole finish does not pull itMark line for cufiing, and Dinthrough facfu at cach e'd ofbuttonhole inish from the righlsid.. Slash facing ditecU, mder\ sllghtly .urved line may behedmed as in Fie. l-,28 if materialra\ls. is thick, or iherc is no obje.tin helmin! the facing vith aA rectangula hem line is ne@s-ery in eme gme.ts vherebultonlDle 6nish is exposed andmust l@k the eme on bolh sides.Nlck @mers and turn ras edAes

BUTTONHOLES

iJi:ias:*#*i"

r nrnr r


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EXTENSION LEAILE'I \"O. 162@der and hem vith a No, 9 or 10 benenneedle. !i9.52C.Ulork from {r lowest buttoifDle up. Withthts pracli@, top buttonholes haye a greaterclEnce {or perfeclion.

FINISHING TOUCHESCollar notch is slip-stitched.l-inal pressjng ,irst smootlr out any rdnklesin the liring tud underside of collar and re1rs.CoDplele pressing the facing seam pressDodret flap, using a piee of qrdboard to plGtect the .oat. Press hems. and buttonhorethen Eess lop collar rerers pinning the col-lar, lapel, and necldine seams taut aa tireecorners of lrnolch" to prevent collar or lanelseam lines from drring. Fig. 53.Hang coat @efully on a well-shaped hangerBuatons should be *$ed oD @ats rith aslunk long enorgh e ihat the faslening doesn,tpinch the buttor role line and ripple the oar

fronl. Pin .enier fron! lailor tacks e that thcymtch, and pi!-@rk bstton lositioG throughbullonhole slots. Use fo( stnlds of tbeadand se{ bultons in plac allo$inE for shank by*{ing over a milch, Din, or a lalge dmingneedle Fig. 548. Trtst thead aroud thisshank. Finish nith one or t$o bultonholestitches. A small flat button stay on the under-side $iI sre rar. Fig. 54B.IOP.STITCHING

This detail can add 1o finish ad a vell-tailoredefie.t. Ilo*erer, iI Jou machine amd beadjusted to a perfect slitch, ii you annoi indenclt) thc rigli thread color and te*ure, ardif ,our tecbnique and eye for lhe subtle pointsof desiln are shaky, omit iop-stitchinl.IIo$ liltle or hov much there must b. abalane to lare this detail efieclive. A locketas the single top-siitched detail $ill seaken thedesigr. Some coaLs har. every seam top-stilched. Tlle minim{n nr a standard top @atis lsralb pockel collar and laDel and facingline. Ui1*re there is a ceuter tra.k sead andthe slceve has a sem Ircm the should.r line.loM, this is lsually to}.stitched.


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TIAriN A COATNoffil am*ye *ams are usualll lop-stilched around the top half of lhe seam. \'hqclhis is dooe ihe arm*Ie is Fessed tolardnec,rline at the toD halfi ihe underarm half of

the seam is clirl,ed and pres*d open. Raglan.saddle, or other noreli) silles hare {his sc..1eilher pr.ssed open and top-stitched on ea!_hside of lhe sem or bolh seams pressed in onedircclion. \trhere both seam edees are pressedin lhe sam! direciion, lun sllodder. u.derarmand lengtlsise sieeLe seams io*ard ihe {rort;@nter ba.k to$ard the left,Collarlapel stitchine is noi @nlinuous. ThisIine is broken at the tullar s.am- Figs. 55, 56,CoUars can be top-stiiched aiong lhe oulcredEe belore applting ihem lo the.eckline sean.Top-sliaclring is complcied on collar, aroundlapel a.d do$r lront facjng afler cotlar is in

EICHT GL:IDESl. E{rd.e lop'slilclring ir g@d r.ad}-to-2. Clip photoraphic illustrations of coats andand suits shosing all a}!es and placi.gs oathis nnish. Clear cui pictees of collar,lapel lnd oa! lail stitchings sill salc a ldof irial and error performance.3. Use ihr.ad tl[t matches texlure an.l isslighil,r d&ker than )our coating. Con-trasling tenuc a"d color is ale usedihough it will releal anrr erratic stit.hiDq,1. ltachine stitch must be nruch longer than for ordiGry slams. Spool

tensioDs mat need adjusting. Try oui top-slilching on wett pressd seamsuntil the Desi color and textrue, stitch length, and placine lor the stylegarnent have been Mrked out.5. Top-siitching should be done thrcuqh ihe same number of thicknessesilnougbout. Stitch Iength and lension sill rary il apptied to tvo ard threelalcrs of medium or healy weighl coali.gs. If both seam edges ar. tobe lurned i. the sme direction, trim ihe inside seam edE. and baste sothal only leo thiclnes*s enter the top-stitclioS, If seams de pressedopen, top-slilcb them on Doth sides.6. Do as mlch top-stitching as you 6n at one time particrJarly if your maclinei- Pr.ss hefore ttru stitch lo insure a sirajghl elen lin, Siikh inside seamsii n c.suy. Press *ams as desired. Slep inside lalers if both seaDedges are F.essed in the same direction- Baste tightly, an.l press again.Then mark lines to lE iop-stitched, u.less }ou have stue olher equallyE- Slrips ot interiacing my .eed to De placed bet$een *am and lament to!n'. bodl and to keep the top-siitched Iine lrom lookirg stretched,

i;


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42 EXTENSION LEATLET NO. 162

.\r)l/r: z' /-\ l/: .= li-(

ORI)ER OF STITCHIN(] IS:1. Pockets (flaps, sldds, latches),2. Outer edge of collar.ll. Lengih$ise seams in bod! and sleev.5. Before top-stitching 6n be applid to facing or a cdt tail, ihe hen must

be turned. It is easier to stitch the lo$er *ction of a @at tail lreiore stitch-jng along the upper center back sean.

7. Compleie colld,lapel and froni facidg.Saddle slitching, "picking," orrcast ad ooss stiiched finishes .an be usdto add color and terlure interesl As thel &e applied by hand more lariation intire.d lextre and size and the slitch length is possible. These de.oraliletouch.s are more olmorly Ged as an edge treatne than as seam deota-tioG. Obserre curent trentls and adapt them to yor coat design,Buttonholc ivist, embroiderl threads, ym, bhids, tapes, ven silk shoe

taces are used. A machine stitched line usinj a lery long stitch and l@se iensionhelps in gaugidg oifom leneth and spacing of such slitches and itsuring a


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MAKE A COATCOAT IAILS

EEmine this detail in a good r&dy-@deoat. See Fig. 57.Coat tails &e onen or closed but jn eihera* @ting hems musl be tened beforFor better aqr the upper dd under sidesshouid be rebforced {itt lape, or x strip ofiderfaciry. Where top-stitching is not tobe r*d, shi, of interfacing ontinues to thenecldine sd, anchoiing it at this Iine {illhelp hold il in shape. See Figures 57A and B,Urdei coat tail seclio. is finished aurningit udo about 1'l aiong ihe lergthwise line.A length of tale is pla@d between lvo srongsides of coating md top-stitched tr positionabout }l" from the lengthwise fold. Fi!. 584-Top c@t tail *ction matr be rei.for.edwith a taDe ingaed along tlrc c.nler backfold ad stit.hed on the under side ahonr1/8" nom fte fold edge. Fig. 588. Coniinuetbis tape diaEoEIIy qosswise betnen tailud @t at top of tail to reiDforce the diag-oDil q6*i* stitching. Reirrlo(eme.tsde stitched in ,lae belore o] top-stitchingFor & open @at tail the Iining is hemedalto lhe coating and lining inside bastirlsm @bpleled. Pin or baste lining to coatdo@d @at tail ara about 3// oqtside oIIf the lini.s has been cut wiih an angteliDe, hem it as rour pattern indictes- If itis cut with a 2', center back siack. be sure


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4.t EXTENSION LEAFLET NO, 162

Lihis fold iuns 1o the lelt. Slash thc lining on lenglh$'isc Eder cree line ofthe slack lold. !'iE. 59. Male this slash as lotrg as openiDs. I'ln, basie, mdhem lining 10 lop oat tail frst about 2" from cenier back fold. Clip ed trima.y ex@ss lining and hem to uDder section. Fig. 60ln clo*d @t tails, bem oat ed reirforce 4 for an oper tail. Seam tMsecHors of lail togelher, For this style, coals mst be helnmed sith an openheE finish aooss $e back section at leasl, or the entire hem line M, be open.The b.ck lining is hemmed as fot a .onr vitloul lail.


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MAITE A COATARROWHEAD AND CROW'S

These deo.rtive la.ks are used to slrergthenihe etrds of Docket on.nirss a.d lops of kickD]ais and also as a hor.ler. Embtoider]rhrGd ed buttonhole t$'ist ae used. A healysingle thJead f,a1ies the most alnadive ealect.Ouiline a iriangle rith tailors chalk or bas!iig. This 6al be equilateral if the 6nish is tobe L


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EXTENSION I,EAILET NO. 162FUR TRIMS

L-----'

Alplique fur n'immirgs to youi other*isecomDleted oat. Remodeling and upkeeppbblems *ill be simpler. Constroction iseasier and pressing is not so iNotved if your@at is inished ilrough thc final pressnrgas an all wol garme.t and aD, lrim brindhemmed in place as the last step.G@d fu should be deansed tud rrin-i.ss made up b an experl lurier. Hosever,iI jou fur is ine$eEsile an


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INDEI.33.Aro*head tacksBsting ...... 32Buftons, make lcd o$'n 22Buttooholes 23_2722lbp , 25Tailoid $orl:ed 26

CetiEgs, old and ne{ ;, 9C6t tnils 4:\-4436CoGtructien. order ofCro$'s fmt Tacks 45Crtling- . t5l8Darts 2lD6ign of buttons, buttolholes, ed pockets 21Dleiog

StitrhedFa.ed 2739

1232

Fabrics, chnceFabric probl(GFinishing TouchesfittinE 324R5

1440

37-39

:37 38SkirlClosed. 38tnterfacings 7 2t)lnterlinings 7, 34Inp.l, shapinlr 35Laundcringi sool, EruLinings .... 6, 34,35:tlached .3720I'adding StjtchPalternsPinnl.EPoclieis . 27-31Bltlonhole 27!'lap 29Stand 30P.tch 3lPEss Block

Slrinkage, ne* matcrials 8Taihnng points .... laTaitor's cushiot 4Tailor'slacks.. 16T@ls for Tailoring .. 3-4

Press Cloth 4Pressing: uool, raron, silk, rehet, corduro, 11Rei.for.em.nts .. l9Eutton - 35Shoulder pads 35ShouldeB, raqlan, saddl. 33_34


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make a coat

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