PACESHIP DAYSAILER

MAINTENANCE MANUAL

IP

FOREWORD

TO THE OWNER,

It Is hoped that this booklet will in some small way help the boat owner get more use and enjoyment from his purchase. -

The material was gathered from many sources including much of my own ex­perience. I have tried to present those subjects. which will most interest the average boat owner. This information has been presented in a form which should be easily understood. Much of the technical terminology has been omitted for clarity.

We believe that PACESH1P builds a fine product , however. we also realize that it is possible to have minor problems from time to time. Many times I have found problems have occurred because owners have not used the boat propert y or have misinformation concerning some aspect of it . The information contained here should help to overcome some of these potential difficult ies.

Best wishes for fair winds and pleasant sailing!

Don Barr Plant Manager

September 20,1970

Page 1

For those who are new to sailing and fiberglass boats, the follow ing list of terms ma~

~ helpful in understanding the instrudions Included in this booklet.

BACKSTAY - Wire slanting sharply aft from th@mastfor the purpose of supportin! the mast.

BAIL- A "u" shaped fitting attached to the boom to hold the mainsheet block.

BALLAST - Iron or lead placed low inside a boat to increas@stability by low@ring thl center of gravity. Lead or Iron keels are termed outs ide ballast to distingu ish fron inside ballast.

BATTEN · Thin wooden strips used to hold the leech of a sa il and prevent curling.

BLOCK· A nautical form of pulley with one or more rollers (sheaves) .

• BOOM . A spar at the foot of a fore-and.aft sail.

CAM CLEAT. A locking or jamming device usua lly Incorporating a jaw or movln~ paris in order to hold a sheet . It Is normally used where quick re leases are requir@d.

CAR . A nautical term for a traveller carriage or geno~ sl ide.

CENTERBOARD· A movable, pivoted devise of wood. fib@rglass or metal used ir place of a keel to give stabil ity, permit sailing in more shallow waters than keel craft. and prevent sliding away from wind (leeway). When raised, It is housed in a cen· terboard trun\(. The dagger.board, a sliding form of centerboard wh ich has no pivot. may only be lowered or lifted vertically.

CHAIN PLATES - Metal plates bo lted or bonded to the side of a hul l or deck to which stays are attached to support rigging .

CHOCK . A metal casting . usually at the oow, through which moor ing and secur ing lines or ropes are led.

CHUTE · Slang for spinnaker.

CLAW - A fitting on a roller reefing boom to which the 'lang attaches. The boom rolls inside the claw when reefing .

CLEAT - Apieceof wood or metal with two horns around, which ropes are made fast.

CL EW - The lower aft corner of a fore ·and·aft or triangular seil .

COAMING - A raised protect ion around t he cockp it of a small boat.

CUNNINGHAM HOLE · A hole or holes placed in the luff of a mainsai l at a predetermined distance up from the boom . The cunn ingham hole is used to stretch the luff of the mainsail down in order to flatten a sail .

DOWNHAU L . A rope or tackle by wh ich a sa il is pulled downward, usually to im ­prove its shape.

FAIR L EAD · An eye or fitti ng which cha nges the direct ion of a sheet or rope led through it .

GENOA · A large, Qverl~ppjng jib.

Page 2

GOOSENECK . A metal fitting, normally a universal joint securing boom to mast.

GUDGEON - A eye fitting to hold pintles of a rudder.

HAL YARD -.Rope or wire used to raise salls.

HEAD - Upper corner of sail.

HEADSTAY - Usually the forward stay, sometimes called forestay.

HELM· The tiller or wheel used to steer a boat.

HI KE - To climb or lean out to windward to counteract excessive heeling.

HIKING STRAPS - Sfraps which run fore and aft in a daysailer to confine the toes of a person hiking outboard.

JIB· A triangular sail set forward of the mast.

LUFF - The forward edge of a fore and aft sail.

MAINSAIL . The triangular fore and aft sail seton the aft side of the main mast.

MAINSHEET - The rope by which a boom or sail is pulled in or slacked off, usually through a system of blocks.

MAST - A vertical spar supporting sails and rigging .

MI ZZEN . A small aft mast on a yawl or ketch.

OUTHAUL· A line used to secure the clew of a sail.

PINTLE· A metal pin like fitting allowing a rudder to swing.

RAI L - The outer edge of the deck.

RAKE · The inclination of a mast from the vertical.

RIGGING - The wires and ropes of a boat running sets or trims the sails. Standing rigging is permanently secured rigging.

ROLLER REEFING· A device for rolling the mainsail onto the boom in order to shorten the sail.

SHEAVE· A wheel in a block.

SHROUDS . Wires supporting the mast.

SPR EADER - A horizontal strut to which shrouds or stays are attached, to support the mast and spread the rigging .

SWAGE - A means of attaching terminals to wire rigging.

TOPPING LI FT - A line running from the backstay to support the boom when the boat is moored.

Page 3

TURNBUCKLE - A threaded link which pulis two eyes together for setting up stan­ding rigging .

VANG - Awireor rope used to steady the boom (Boom Yang) .

WHISKER POLE - A light pole or stick used to poie out a jib to windward to permit sailing wing to wing on a run . when spinnaker is not set .

WINCH - A drum shaped mechanical device similar to a windlass to increase hauling power on sheets and halyards.

WOR KI NG SAILS - The ord inary fore and aft sa ils. such as jib and ma insail .

FIBERGLASS TERMINOLOGY ,

CATAL YST . A substance that Initiates a chemical reaction and enables rt to proceed uNder milder conditions than otherwise possible.

EPOXY · A molecu lar containing oxygen attached to two different atoms already united in some other wa y.

EPOXY RESIN - A flexible. usually thermosetting. resin made by polymerization of an epoxide and used chiefly in coatings and adhesives.

ESTER· A compound formed by the read ion between an acid and an alcohol or phenol with the elimination of water .

POL YESTER · A complex ester formed by polmer ization or condensation .

POLYMERIZATION · A chemical reaction in which two or more small molecules combine to form large molecules.

RESINS - Any of various solid or semi-solid amorphous fusible flammable natural organiC substances that are usually transparent or translucent and yellowish to brown in color . are formed especially in plant secret ions. are soluble in ether and other organic solvents but not in water and are electr ical non-conductors .

I NH I BITOR - A substance that slows down a chem ical readion .

M .E.K .. Methyl ethy l ketone perox ides. A cata lyst used to cure gelcoat and some resins .

GELCOAT - A special resin containing a color pigment. This is the material used on the exterior of fiberglass to give it the color .

MAT · Fiberglass mat comes in various weights such as 1.5 oz .• 2 oz . . etc. This refers to the weight per square fooL Mat is made up of short strands of chopped glass pressed into a mat form .

ROVI NGS - These come in various weights ; such as 18 oz. and 24 oz . This refers to the weight per square yard. Rav ings are made from continuous strands of glass woven together in a blanket form .

MONOMER - This Is generally styrene or viny l toluene and is used to vary the viscosity of the resin .

Page .4

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTICS

The plural components remain in liquid form until two or more are brought together In the gun in the proper proportions and mixed. This mixing results in a chemical heat readion (thermosetting) causing materials to solidify (cure) . Probably the most common type plural components Is polyester resin . The polyester resin bonds the lightweight, strong, flexible glass fiber into a stiff matrix to gain the physical properties of both materials .

Polyester resins can be classified as either gelcoat (which are pigmented polyesters) or reinforcing resins (structural resins or lay-up resins ). Gelcoats usually are used as the first (or color) coat in a product , (comparable to the paint on a car. The lay-up resins are used with glass fibers or other fibers (such as cloth or Mat) to produc~ structures called laminates. They range in color from amber to clear and are rarely pigmented. They are sprayed over the gelcoat to fuse themselves to the fiber forming a matrix. The components then become a monolithic (seamless) structure.

Common glass, as is generally known, it's very brittle substance which will break or shatter, when it Is impacted. This is because the large surface area with its many flaws reduces Its tensile strength. In fibrous form, the decreased size and surface area sharply reduces flaws, and the flexible glass fiber approaches its theoretical physical strength. Tensile strength of the fiber is the prime fador of resin.glass construction. .

A composite of glass fibers and polyester resins , each is important in its own way. The polyester resin In its liquid state is plastic and adhesive. This material holds the glass fibers without damaging or reacting with them, yet bonds the fibers so they cannot migrateor pull out. This type of composite also is able to distribute the stress evenly, as well as retain the fibers if it breaks.

The combination of polyester resins and glass fibers are good structural materials and offer the fabricator a number of advantages. Any shape article is possible, since the polyester is I iquid, it will flow and readi Iy surround or capture any fibers or fillers. The desirable property of remaining in a liquid state at room temperatures and solidifying only when a catalyst is added simplifies the type of equipment needed.

The temperature and mass of polyesters have a tremendous bearing on the cure cycle of the resin. Usually the cure cycle is in the area of 1 to 2 hours depending upon production rates and product designs, and is controlled by the amount of catalyst introduced into the resin. Catalyst is ut i lized to overcome an inhibitor which prevents premature polymerization of the resin . The amount of catalyst used varies from 1 to 3 percent based on weight or volume. Cold substrate will delay the cure time cycle.4 to 10 times the stated time. If you do not achieve a proper cure at the time you apply the remaining coating, the glass fibers will penetrate the previous coatings and possibly cause surface flaws. Shrinkage and (or) wrinkles may also be evident . These are caused by styrene etching of the incured resin on the glass fiber. High humidity will also inhibit good curing as water and polyesters are incompatible;

Paoe : - -

CARE OF FIBERGLASS BOATS

Gelcoat. which is the color material us~d on fiberglass, is susceptible to the bom­bardment of ultra-v iolet rays of the sun and to general weathering. These elements, in time, cause a fading of the color and a chalking of the surface.

The best method of preventing this is the application of a quality wax. The wax should be light in color or white so that it will not discolor the surface. If possible. you should choose a wax with a cleaner. This will remove the surface dirt. The wax should not be water soluble and should have some resistance to detergents. /

Spray waxes can be used between heavy duty waxings to remove superficial dirt and protect the gelcoat_

RUST REMOVAL FROM GELCOAT: To remove rust from gelcoat surfaces, the following method is satisfactory :

Soak the rust area with a mild solution of 'Hydrofluoric Acid '. This is the same type of solution that is used by dry cleaning establishments to remove rust from clothing.

Two precautions must be taken: 1. Hydrofluoric acid can cause severe skin burns, particularly under fingernails, therefore. RUBBER GLOVES MUST BE WORN . Read the instructions on the label carefully .

2. Hydrofluoric acid will dissolve gel coat and therefore surfaces must be thoroughly lIushed with water after the rust has been removed.

Typical products for fiberglass care :

CLEANERS, Kuhls fiberglass boat cleaner Fuller Brush Co. Fiberglass cleaner .

SOAPS , Kuhls fiberglass boat soap Fuller Brush Co. boat soap.

WAXES , Kuhls Boat Wax Fuller Brush Co. Boat Wax S.C.Johnson & Son Inc. (J Wax kit)

Page 6

CARE AND CLEANING OF SAILS

OIL.DIRT-MILDEW: Store salls dry. Wash In warm water with soap or detergent, but not biological washing powders.

MILDEW: Scrub lightly with a stiff brush. Then soak for two hours in a cold, diluted solution of bleach (1 part Oomestos to 10 parts water). Wash thoroughly In water and repeat, If necessary.

01 L-GREASE AND WAX: Small stains clean with Trichloroethylene. Heavy stains­use polyclene and wash out with soap and water. Use a well ventilated area. These cleaners will remove oils, grease, petroleum lelly but not metallic particles (rust) .

METALLIC STAINS: a) Immerse the stained portion In a 5 percent solution of Oxalic Acid disolved in hot water (1 oz. of Oxalic acid dIssolved in each pint of hot water) . The hands and the fabrics should be thoroughly washed after using Oxalic acid solution. This chemical Is very poisonous.

b) Immerse the stained portion In a warm solution containing two parts of con· centrated hydrochloric acid per 100 parts of water . Wash thoroughly with water.

LIGHTNING PROTECTION

For owners interested in protecting their boats from lightning strikes. they should obtain a copy of the National Fire Protection Association 's No. 302 Standard.

Briefly, the following guide may be helpful to the c.wncr to appraise whether or not he will go ahead.

NON.METALLIC BOATS

A bonding system consists of a heavy conductor either insulated or non·insulated. no smaller than No. 6 AWG wire or equivalent . It should be inslallf:'d in the fore or aft direction away from bilge water and as dose to the common ground point as possible. The bonding system should be independent of the boat 's electrical system, except for connection at the common ground pOint . Splices in the bonding conductor should be minimized and either brazed or soldered.

Jumpers from the bonding conductor to individual items should be kept as short as possible and no smaller than 8 AWG wire. Jumpers shou ld be soldered or brazed to the bonding conductor . Exposed metallic parts of the following items should be connected to the bonding system :

1. Engine 2. Metal enclosures of all electrical equipment including :

(a) Motor and generator frames (b) Cabinet & control boxes (c) Radio and electronic equipment

3. Fuel tanks. deck fittings 4. Metal water tanks and tank open ing fittings . S. Metal thru-hull fitt ings.

Page 7

THE CARE and MAINTENANCE OF STAINLESS STEEL

Though the corrosion res istance of stainless steel contributes greatly to the carefree life of the boatman. the metal can provide even beHer results w ith reasonable use and care.

Maximum corrosion resistance starts with clean surfeces. end usuaJly stainless steel marine equipment can be kept clean simply by washing it down on a regular besls. In addit ion. it should be cleaned occasionally with ordinary soap and weter. To spe!ld cleaning, action soda ash. borax or any of sever!) ! non·abraslve commercial cleenlng agents can be added to the water . Stubborn stains. which from time to time. can appur on stainless steel can be removed with a paste made with water and ammonia ¥ld either magnesium oxide, finely powered prim ice or French chalk. With 11'115 soIu1ion, It Is Important to rub in the direction of t he ~ollshlnQ marks on the stainless, using a soft cloth. Stainless steel wool of the finest possible texture is sometimes used to r"emowe e)(iremely resistant deposits.

Although stainless steel Is easy to keep clean, you should take care in the selection of the proper cleaning agent for the job For e)(arrple. cerlain cleaning agenl'$ should 'NOT' be used. such as. steel wool scouring pads. scrapers and wire brushe5. These c lean ing tools can leave minute particles cf ; ",cn imbedded in the stainless stee( surface. These parlicles can corrode and mar the appe.5lrance of the metal.

When a fitting needs replacement or for one reason or another a screw or bolt holding a piece of stainless equipment must be changed. screws Or" bolts holding steinle!s items should also be of 'stainless steel'. Many non·stainless fasteners in contact with $tainless steel set up a gall.lanic corrosion. At best, this can result in an unslohtly fastener and a surround ing stain . At worst, it can result in the rap id failure of the fastener.

TRAILERING YOUR PACESHIP OA YSAILER

It Is very important that a trailer suitable for your particular boat be used.

The tralier should have sufficient rollers 01" supporls to adequately SUpjXlrt the hull ol.ler the entire bottom . Most of the weight shou ld be along the centerline of the hull. There should also be supports aft at the transom area. These supports should be large so as to distribute the load even ly. S~II roilers or insuffic:ent roUers will create st ress areas and damage the hull . The bow su~port should position the boat property in the trailer . The .side rollers should be placed as c!ose to the chine as feasible to provide stebil ity and c"ntrel side sway. These sucports " SHCULD NOT" be adjUSTed· to carry a major portion of the boat's weight.

TIE DOWNS: The trailer should have tie downs caJ::able of holding the boat secur,ly against the rollers or bOlSters provided. If wh ile tral!.rln;, separation occurs bet· ween the boat and roilers . sl'lOck loads will be ImrocuceO, which may result in damage to bolh ttl. boat and fra iler . Trailer ti e downs are subject to appro)(imately the same vertical tens ion loads as t he t railer h ifch.

?age 8

GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING LEAKS

Generally, leaks can be broken down Into two c:ate9Ql'les:

(a) Below waterline lellks. (b) Deck leaks.

A systematic procedure Is the best WIY of flndlnglnd fixing any leak. Therefore, the following is a general procedure tor f inding leaks In any bNt :

ABOVE WATERLINE OR DeCK LEAKS : These leebare usually easier to find thin the below waterline type. This Is because the source Is more readily ~pparent. Usa the following list to check the possible source:

1. All deck hllrdware, sud'l as cleats, chocks. genoa track, etc. 2. Chain plates. 3. Windows 4. Hatches 5. Vents.

Screws and bolts ani the culprits In most cases. If the r ight one can be found, ~ck it off or remove It and squirt some silicone sealer In the hole and replace the bolt . Fittings that 19k are best repaired by removing and sealing with silicone.

Deck leaks along the hull deck joint are the most difficult to f ind and repair . Generally fhese can be repaired with silicone from the inside. However, in extreme ca5eS, the removal of the gunwale may be necessary to seal from outside. Again screws or pop rivets mey be the problem. These sometimes penetrate the bondIng material and cause leaks. These are difficult to find and only leak under sail when the rai l is well down.

UNDERWATER LEAKS: Firstly try to determine If the leak only develops when under sail or power or does it leak at the mooring. This 'ed can tell you a great deal about where to look,

If the boat leaks when at the mooring, it generally means th is is a f itting , which is below the waterline at all times. Such items as centerboard pins, shaft logs, packing nuts. centerboard lever assemblIes and rudder parts fall Into this group, If the leak de..,elops under sail or power, It can be in areas where the water level rises as the hull speed increases. Such items as, centerboard trunks, cockpit drains, toilets. Ice boxes end sink drains are in this group.

Once you have isolated the leek into one of these categories, start checking at the bow and work yourwaytowar-d the stern. Inspect every fitting or place where a hole has been made in the hu ll. Check the following, sterting atihe bow:

1. ~ .

3. ,. S. 6.

Head (tOilet). Sea cock for Head. Ice box drain & seacock. Sink drain and sea cock. Centerboard pin . Centerboard cable and attachment.

7. Engine drains, wate r pump . and seacock. B, Cockpit drains and seacocks. 9. Shaff log and stuffing box. 10, Rudder port . 11. Bulkhead between outboard well and interior.

Page 9

These items should be checked when moored. The bilge should be pumped and dryas possible. Operate the boat under sail on both tacks and under power. Have someone competent go below and check all the list of items again.

Some leaks seem to defy every known method of detectiDn. How&ver, do nol try to remove major components before checking with the factory. More damage can be done and the leak still may not be found. If you have done a thorough job of checking and cannot find the leak, write the fadory describing the nature of the leak.

O1e last word, underwater leaks can sometimes be found by pulling the boat from the water and filling the bilge with water. Dry off the hul l below the waterline. Watch closely for any seepage. The leak may be sma ll under these circumstances because of less pressure and strain.

SUGG ESTED METHODS OF REPAI R: Silicone sealer is the best method of sealing leaks around fittings and screws. It's easy to use and does an excellent lob. Two companies manufacture the product· Dow Corning and General Electr ic.

For seeps and weeps above or below the waterline, epoxy sealers work wel,. One such Rroduct is Glu-Vit, made by Travaco lab Inc., 345 Eastern Avenue, Chelsea, Mass. 02150. Follow the directions on the can. This type of product is good if you have a leak in an area but can't pin point it exactly. Sand any paint off and brush the epoxy over the whole area.

FILLERS: PUTTY/PASTE: These are good for fill ing voids or gouges in fiberglass. They can also be used to bond items to fiberglass. There are many such products on the market, two of which are:

Epotex made by: H. 8. Fred Kuhls Inc 100 Holiday Sf. Jersey City, N. J.

Formula '27 Fibre Glass Evercoat Inc. 6600 Cornell Rd. Cincit'lnati, Ohio 45242.

Page 10

REPAIR OF FIBERGLASS GELCOA·

The repair of gel coat is easy because only the surface of the boet is cWImaged. This is similar to a scratch in av1omobile paint. The damage falls into two categories :

(1) Damage to the gel coat colored outer surface. (2) Holes or gouges that are deep enough to penetrate the fiberglass reinfor ced areas of the boat. The repair operations are similar.

For damage to the geleeat surface, you require: (1 ) A small can of gelcoa1 (the same color as your boat) and {2} a small amount of catalyst. For deeper holes or gouges (!Ja" or more), yo~ wil l also require short strands of fi berglass, which can be trimmed from f iberglass mat or purchased in the form of milled fibres .

1. Make sure the area around the damaged area Is w iped clean and Is dry. Remove any wax or oil from the Inside of the hole or scratch (acetone can be used for th is purpose).

2. Use a power drill with a burr attachment, to roughen the bottom and sides of the damaged area and feather the edge surrounding the scr~tch or gouge. If a burr is not available, a putty knife and 400 grit sandpaper can be used.

3. Pour a small amount of gelcoat into a jar l id or on a cardboard. Add a drop or two of clttalyst. Mix thoroughly, using a cutting mot ion, rather than stirring. USE NO FIBRES.

4. Using your finger or the tip of a putty knife, f i ll the hole with the gelcoat mixture. about 1/1 6" above the surrounding surface.

s. Lay a piece of cel lophane or waxed paper over the repa ir to cut off the air and start the cure.

6. After IOor 15 minutes. the patch will be partially cu red (70 degrees F.) When it feels rubbery to the touch. remove the cellophene end trim flush w ith the surface. Use a sh~ rp r~zor bl~de or putty knife. Rep lace the ce llophane and allow to cure completely (30 min. - 1 hr.L The patch will shrink slightly below the surface as it cures.

7. Sand the patched area with 600 grit wet sandpaper. Finish by rubbing or buffing with fine rubbing compound. Slight color difference may be observed but weathering will b lend th is touch-up, if properly applied .

FOR HOLES AND GOUGES,

(1) Repeat Steps 1 & 2.

(7) Mix geleoat as before in Step 3 except m ix an equal amount of m illed fihers w ith this geicoat . using a putty kni fe or small fiat sti ck_ Then ~dd t~o drops of c~talY5t using an eye dropper for eccur~te measurement. For a half doriar site pile of gelcoat. this amount of catalyst will give you 15 to 20 minutes work ing time before it begins fa gel.

(3) Work this m i xture at gelcoat , fibres and cata lyst into the damaged area . Use the sharp po int of a putt y knife blade to press it into the bottom of the hole and to puncture any a ir bubbles, which may occur . F ill the scratch or hole about 1/16" above the surrounding undamaged area.

(.4) Repeat Steps 5, 6 & 7.

Page 11

A WORD ABOUT CORROSION

Corrosion is evident in many forms, and we see it ellery day. It eats holes in your automobile, causes hydro breakdowns, It can crack a bridge. wreck an aircraft or r iddle a pipe line. It works In the air, underground or underwater.

Most of us think of It as "RUST". Actually rust is only 11'1e famil iar kind of corrosion that aHacks ferrous metal ; Iron or steel. Corrosion Inevitably eats away at all metals unless they are protectEd.

The corrosion process is fairly simple. Every meta l contains electrochemical energy that seeks to release itself - a restless movement of little particles, called " Ions" . to the surface. When the metal comes in contact with a conducting electrolyte· the commonest being air and water. small electr icel currents begin to flow through that metal. Parts of the metal, which are called the " anode" ar eas, !;live up litt le particles of themselves, and that Is corrosion .

The corrosion rates of such metals as gold and silver is inf ini tesimal. A tiny flow of one ampere of electr icity can d iSintegrate 20 pounds of steel in one year. Other agenb

combined with air and water, such as salty or ac idic pollutants, help speed corrosion.

Luckily, some metals take care of themselves by automaticaJly forming their own surface coating. Pure alum inum o)(idizes rapidly In the air to form a transparent protective film of aluminum oxide, about one·ten-mil l ionth of a mil li meter th ick. Sta inles! steel sets up an invisib le insulating film on Iy one molecule th Ick.

Boat owners should be particularly l!iware of corrosion since the boat spends Its life In or near a very hosti le env ironment "Water". This is particularly t rue of those boats sa iled in salt water .

ONners should check their boats carefully at the be9inning of each season for poss ible corrosion . The following list is a genera l guide for any boat .

1. Mast, especially where fitt ings are attached . 2. Boom 3. Masthead 4. Mast Step 5. Stays and fittings 6. HC!llyards and fitt ings 7. ChC!l in plC!ltes C!lnd fasten ings e. Kee l bolts Of keel boat, tighten before launching) 9. Centerboard pennant wire and pin 10. Tiller head and fastening 11. Stem fitt ing and fastening 12. Sea cocks 13. Head and connections 14. Any underwater electronic fitt ings IS. Rudder pintles and gudgeons (daysailers )

Page 12

CARE & MAINTENANCE. PACESHIP DAYSA IL ERS

All Paceship daysailer"i. which include Paceship 20. Mouette. Paceship 17. Pacesh ip 2-16. and Peregrine o!Ir; construded using similar methods and materials.

HULL & DECK - The hulls and decks are all one piece and are manufactured using the hand lay-up method. Decks are reinforced with plywood or Balsa ':ore sandwiched into the laminate. Bilge stringers or plywood frames are used to reinforce the hulls. The hull and deck are bonded together with fiberglass mat.

CENTERBOARD and LEVER ASSEMBLY - All centerboards used in Paceship Daysailers (except Flying Juniors) are made of f iberglass construction. Again, we only use the hand lay-up method. The board Is made In two pieces and bonded together with fiberglass mat. Chopped strand mat is used as a filler to add strength at points of strain. There is a square brass plate moulded into the board that engages the centerboard lever . The centerboard lever assembly is similar in all Paceship daysailers. However, there are other slight d ifferences, which are described below:

Mouette. Paceship 17. Paceship 2·16, Peregrine: The parts in these four boats are not interchangeable. However, the design is the same as in the operation. There is a triangle brass casting conta ining three studs moulded into the starboard side of the centerboard trunk. Next there is the lever assembly , which is made up of three parts :

1. The lower unit with square shatto 2. The handle 3. Rubber washer.

The handle is bolted to the lower unit with two cap screws. The lower unit, which has a square shift engages the brass plate in the centerboard itself, and contains the rubber washer. The lever and lower unit ar e held onto the centerboard trunk with a triangle brass plate and three self. lock ing nuts.

Mouette and Peregrine only: There is a locking key on one of the studs . The purpose of this is to hold the cen terboard in the 'up' positi on. To release the board. push down slightly w ith one hand on the lever. With the other hand , relecse the key slowly allowi ng the lever to raise to the 'Iert ical position. To ra ise the board , push the lever to the horizontal position. The key should lock automatica ll y. If not, push it into place.

Paceship 17, Paceship 2·16: There is a different handle used on these two models and no lock key is necessary. To ra ise and lower the ooard, you merely unlock t he hand le from the indent. The lower unit itself is similar to the Mouette and Peregrine.

PACE5HIP 20 only: The Paceshlp 20 uses a winch to operate the centerboard. The center board is made of fi breglass. The centerboard Is held into the trunk by 3 stainless steel bo lt. Seal is maintained by rueter washers backed up by stain less washers. A self locking nut holds the bolt in place.

Ma intenance of Centerboard Lever Assembly : '7r.e :mly maintenance req\.Jired is the (] cc3sional tightening of the three self·locking nuts tc control weter leakage. Some slight seepage is to be expected between the cer.terboard and the rubber washer. Do not over t ighten in an attempt to stop all leakac;e, as d iSTort ion or leakage may occur.

l<. udder and Tiller: The rudder and t iller are siM il ar in all daysall ers. The ma in difference is in the size of the rudder blade, pint le and gudgeons. All Paceship daysai ler rudders areof the kick.uptype. The blade is tempered sheet aluminum, the head !s mahogany plywood fastened w ith brass screws. The til!er cao is stainless stee l.

Paae 13 -

Self-Bailing Feature: All Paceship daysailers except Paceship 2-16 and Flying Junior have transom drains for self-bailing_ The Paceship 2-16 and Flying Junior have suction bailers. which are only opened when the boat is under way_

Floatation: All Paceship daysailers are equipped with positive foam floatation. We use only urethane foam. which Is fiberglassed in place on the underside of the deck. We also provide foam in the bow area.

Attachment of Hardware: All hardware is attached using bolts and nuts. In places which are not accessible, plates are flberglassed In and the screws are tapped Into these plates_ Therefore. fittings can be removed and replaced without too much difficulty.

Rigg ing: All paceship daysailers have aluminum mast and booms and stainless steel rigging. All terminals are swaged on using the same terminals and method used in the aircraft industry. The stainless steel wire is :1'31" with 1I bre8king strength of 1200 Ibs. Turnbuckles are '/,,-" stainless steel with a breaking strength of 2600 Ibs.

Chain Plates, Tangs, Mast Fittings: All chain plates and mast tangs are stain less steel. These are fastened with stainless steel or aluminum fastenings. Mast heads. goosenecks and boom ends are aluminum castings with stainless steel fittings.

Sails and Running Rigging: All sails are of Dacron and the halyards are twisted Dacron. The sheets are madeof Samson braid.

Anti -Fouling Paint: If your boat is left .in the water for long periods, you should consider applying anti-fouling paint. The marine dealer In your area should be able to advise you the type best suited. Vinyl base paints are considered best for fiberglass . The secret of a good job is proper preparation of the bottom of the boat. Read the instructions on the can and follow them carefully.

Page 14

RIGGING SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL DESCRIPTION LENGTH WIRE / ROPE QUA;HITY

P 2-16 Forestay 14'-11" 332)(1)(19 1 Shrouds 14'-6lJ .. " 3 32 x 1 x 19 2 Main Halyards 44' -0" ',~" Dacron 1

Jib Halyards 30' -0" I.~" Dacron 1 Oownhaul ) ' ·0" 'I .. " Dacron 1 Mainsheet 54'·0" 5 16" Samson Braid 1

Jib Sheet 28' -0" 5 16" Samson Braid 1

Peregrine Forestay 13'·11'/2" 3 32 x 1 x 19 1 Shrouds 13' ·93A " 332x1)( -19 2 Main Halyard 43' -0" '/. " Dacron 1 Jib Halyard JO' -0" 11 .. .. Dacron 1 Mainsheet 33' ·0" 5 16" Samson Braid 1 Jib Sheet 30'·0" 5 16" Samson Braid 1 Downhaul 4' -0" I,~" Dacron 1

NIouette Forestay 18' -SlY8" 3 32 x 1 x 19 1 -Shrouds 18' ·4'i'a" 3 32 )( 1 x 19 2 Main Halyard 51 '·0" If. " Dacron 1 Jib Halyard 39' -0" '/. " Dacron 1

Main Sheet 45' -0" 3ta" Samson Braid 1 Jib Sheet 36' -0" 3ta" Samson Braid 1

Oownhaul 4' -0" '/ .. " Dacron 1

Paceship 17 Forestay 16'·11/. " 332 x 1 )( 19 1 Shrouds 15' ·21/ .. " 332x1x19 2 Main Halyard 44' ·0" 11 .. " Dacron 1 J ib Halyard 32'·0" If .. " Dacron 1 Oownhaul 3'·0" If .. " Dacron 1 Main Sheet 53' ·0" 34" Samson Bra id 1 Jib Sheet 36' ·0" 34" Samson Braid 1

Bluejacket Forestay 21 ' -7" If, " x 1 x 19 1 Backstay 21 ' ·2" 11 x 11 x 11 1 Upper Main 22' -5" 11 x 11 x 11 2 Lower Main 11 '- 10" 11 x 11 x 11 2 Topping Lift 3' -0" 11 x 11 x 11 1 Oownhaul 4'-0" 11 .. " Dacron 1 Mainsheet 60' -0" 34" Samson Bra id 1 Jib Sheet 1

SO' -0" ~" Samson Braid 1 Main Halyard 26' -9" Ifll" x 7 x 19 1 Main Halyard 34' -0" ::va" Dacron 1 Jib Halyard 18' -8" Ifll x7x19 1 Jib Halyard 29' -0" :VII" Dacron 1

Paae 15

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Peregrine Rigging Arrangement

Page 16

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Flying Junior RiggIng Arrangement

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Mouette Rigg ing Arrangement

Page 17

Notes:

INDEX

Foreword

Glosselry

Description of Flbreglass

care of Flbreglass Boats

care and Cleaning of Sails .

lightning Protecllon

care of Stainless Steel

Trailerl"g Your Daysaller

Checking For Leaks

Repair of Gelcoat

Corrosion

care and Maintenance of Daysallers

Rigging Specifications

Rigging Diagrams P·2·16 . P·17

Rigging Diagrams Peregrine

Rigging Diagrams Flying Junior

Rigging Diagrams Mouot1e

Page 19

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2. 3 ••

5

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7

7

8

8

9, 10

11

12

13. 14

15

16

16

17

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PACESHIP YACHTS LTD. P. O. Box 20

MAHONE BAY Nova Scotia, Canada

Area -

Page 20 Printed in Canada