global kitchen.

India’s commercial capital of Mumbai moves at a dizzying pace. Matt Preston tries to keep up as he samples the colour and

spice of the city’s food scene, from street snacks to Colonial grandeur and the slick bars where Bollywood stars party.

words MATT PRESTON

PhotograPhy CATHERINE SUTHERLAND

mad on mumbai

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Exhilarating, infuriating and occasionally stinky, Mumbai is unlike almost any other city in the world. Live there and you’ll call it “mad Mumbai”. Visit and – after the culture shock recedes – it emerges as a vibrant and fascinating city.

As the top end of India’s economy booms, the country’s commercial capital of Mumbai has never been hotter. And with direct flights from Sydney available, Mumbai is ideal for Aussies looking for a different stopover to Europe, or a holiday spot that isn’t South-East Asia.

The city has its challenges. Its grandeur is a little chipped and faded, and the traffic is woeful – the 35km journey from the airport to the city centre can take three hours! This means Mumbai is very much split between North and South. The South is home to the old money, who still call the city Bombay and often belittle North Mumbai as nouveau riche due to all the Bollywood stars and models living and partying there. This division does mean, however, that there’s a high concentration of trendy clubs and bars in northern suburbs such as Juhu and Bandra, and of the 15 new five-star hotels scheduled to open in Mumbai over the next few years, the majority will be in the North.

As well as the mega-wealthy and an emerging middle class, Mumbai is home to Asia’s biggest slum. It’s a measure of the poverty of the very poorest here that for them a place in a slum could be a step up from sleeping, literally, on the street. Official figures put the city’s population at about 16 million, but there are estimates of another five million living there unofficially. What is dizzying is that Mumbai covers an area about a quarter the size of Melbourne or Sydney, making it the most densely populated city in the world. In spite of this, Mumbai has a reputation as a comparatively safe city, although this should not impact on the care you take when there. Mumbai

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also has pockets of idyllic calm, such as the ancient, temple-fringed Banganga Tank (Walkeshwar Rd, Malabar Hill), where you would believe you were in a rural village, if not for the towering skyscrapers lurking behind the crumbling old buildings.

Many Indians are drawn to Mumbai by better work prospects, and the city’s role as a magnet for people from across the country means that Mumbai’s restaurants reflect a broad cross-section of cuisines. This ranges from the vegetarian food of Gujarat to the coastal Mangalorean cuisine from south of Mumbai, which exists alongside North Indian and the city’s own rather limited Maharastrian cuisine. The city’s culinary map is further complicated by distinct religious or cultural groups, including the Parsis, the Jains and the Muslims (more specifically, the Boris).

Eating well in Mumbai can cost from 40 rupees ($1) to 4000 ($100) but locals love all points on this scale. What follows is a free-wheeling guide to where Mumbaikars like to go. Some tourist-friendly places make it in, but only if you’re more likely to meet a Mumbaikar there than someone from Manchester or Mosman!

Khyber (145 Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Kala Ghoda, Colaba, +91 22 2267 3227), a Western celeb and fashionista hangout. Less swanky is Copper Chimney, a modern chain with branches in Kala Ghoda, Worli and Bandra that does good kebabs, breads, palak paneer (creamed spinach with paneer cheese), and pomfret (a local fish) in rich tomato curry.

coastal cuisineWith antique wooden bowls festooning the walls, the unpretentious décor at Konkan Cafe (Taj President, Cuffe Pde, Colaba, +91 22 5665 0808) makes the wonderful food even more of a surprise. Specialising in the fresh, light cuisine found along the coast south of Mumbai, Konkan offers seafood, Goan mango rice, and dishes laced with pepper, coconut, garlic, ginger and spices. Winners include prawns with garlic and pepper; pomfret steamed in tamarind leaves; and a dizzying array of vegetable dishes. They also have a decent wine list dotted with a few drinkable Indian wines.

Mahesh Lunch House (8B Cawasji Patel St, Fort, +91 22 2287 0938) is also a popular haunt for seafood, but for more adventure, head north to Gajalee (Kadamgiri Complex, Hanuman Rd, Vile Parle, +91 22 2611 4093). Have a candy-pink drink made from a sweet-sour fruit called kokum, and gorge on crispy fried bombil (lizardfish or ‘Bombay duck’) with green chilli and coriander, and

succulent giant prawns cooked in the tandoor. Choose between air-conditioned or the cheaper ‘no air-con’ room. Once this far north, you might as well also visit the bars of Juhu and Bandra.

As Mumbai covers seven islands, it’s not surprising that seafood is big news here. In the early morning, go to Ferry Wharf in Mazagaon to see the fish land: pomfret, bombil, lobster, prawns or surmai (a bit like kingfish). It’s a crazy, heaving, technicolour maelstrom of people. Fish pour from boats onto the slurry of the dock where manic

bidding ensues. Three tips: don’t wear thongs; be careful what you take pictures of (as this is a sensitive naval area); and if you hear hissing behind you, it’s a porter’s way of saying they’re coming past – at speed!

The city’s most loved seafood restaurant is dinky little Trishna (Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, +91 22 2270 3213). Book a crammed padded bench, order a Kingfisher beer, then move on to Hyderabadi tikka of pomfret, a justified bestseller. As with most places in this city, a dish of onions and fresh limes is on hand to freshen the palate.

indian fineryMany of the smartest restaurants in Mumbai are in big hotels and few do Indian food as well as The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower’s Masala Kraft (see Where to Stay, +91 22 5665 3366). Snack on spiced pigeon-pea cakes with tamarind and curds, followed by morel mushroom curry or pureed mustard greens with corn bread. There’s the added plus of maybe bumping into the Indian or Australian cricket teams!

For North Indian dishes in similarly smart surroundings, try Kandahar (The Oberoi, Nariman Point, +91 22 5632 5757), or push past the jungled exterior into

one of the many vendors at Juhu Beach. opposite, from top: the opulent tsar vodka bar at the InterContinental; making marigold garlands at Colaba Market.

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A safer option for visitors is to dine at the swag of cafes serving street favourites. A kilometre north of Chowpatty Beach, queue for a table at pav bhaji pioneer Sardar (166B M. Malviya Marg, Tardeo Rd Jct, +91 22 2353 0208). For Gujarati and South Indian snacks, try Soam (Sadguru Sadan, opp. Babulnath Mandir, Chowpatty, +91 22 2369 8080) or Swati Snacks (248 Karai Estate, Tardeo Rd, opp. Bhatia Hospital, Tardeo, + 91 22 2492 0994). With its newish industrial look of stainless steel, Swati is the least swank but nonetheless loved by office workers and lunching ladies alike. This 40-year-old veteran is famous for its panki, a steamed banana-leaf pancake with spicy green chutney. First thing each morning, they also make syrup-soaked, deep-fried batter squiggles called jalebi.

The quintessential Mumbai breakfast, however, is vada pav (a fried potato fritter served in a roll with spicy chutney). Invented 35 years ago by a street seller at Dadar station, locals now argue about whether the best comes from Panshikar’s (2 Govardhandas Building, JSS Rd, +91 22 2386 1211), Krishna Vada Pav near the station, the vada pavwallah at Kirti College, or from Prakash (Gokhale Rd, Dadar).

The most famous street stall in Mumbai’s south is the buzzy Bade Miya (Tulloch Rd, Apollo Bunder, +91 22 2284 8038), located in a dingy alley behind the Taj Mahal Palace, where its charcoal barbecues line the pavement. Each night, a jam of cars pull up to order kebabs of ground mutton or beef with swathes of ‘handkerchief’ bread.

One powerful culinary icon that is slipping from the streets of Mumbai is the dabbawallah. This extraordinary, intricate network of lunch delivery men used to bring over 200,000 lunches from suburban housewives to their working husbands in the city, but with more dual-income homes, the number of takeaways is increasing and the number of women cooking lunches for their spouses is waning, together with employment opportunities for dabbawallahs. They’re not gone yet though, so you can still see them at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus at 11.30am every weekday.

vegging outAnother must-do is a Gujarati thali (a large tray with bread, rice and a variety of side dishes) from the vegetarian state that lies north of Mumbai. The long-running Rajdhani (361 Sheikh Memon St, Fort, +91 22 2342 6919) is a narrow shopfront lost among the hubbub of fabric sellers. A sign declares they’ve served more than 5.5 million thalis. Here, a metal tray is loaded with little pots of pulses, spiced cauliflower florets, or a sweet yellow sauce full of drumsticks (a green seed pod) which are chewed with the stalky casing, then spat out. Everything is constantly replenished, courtesy of the manager communicating through finger clicks. Other venerable thali choices are Golden Star Thali (330 Raja Ram Mohan Roy Rd, Chowpatty, +91 22 2363 1983) or Chetana (34 K.Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, +91 22 2284 4968).

Also, explore Mumbai’s warren-like Crawford Market to see the local produce, then visit the 100-year-old BadShah (152/156 LT Marg, opp. Crawford Market, Fort, +91 22 2342 1943) for hand-churned kulfi (ice cream) or falooda, a slippery, slurpable vermicelli dessert in flavours such as rosewater or saffron.

a taste of persiaWith a history of philanthropy far outweighing their numbers, members of Mumbai’s Parsi community have also contributed culinary gifts to the city. Zoroastrians, who left Persia 1000 years ago, have a cuisine that hints at their geographic past. The 90-year-old Britannia & Co (Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Rd, Ballard Estate, Fort, +91 22 2261 5264) is one of only a few so-called Irani cafes left in Mumbai, and is widely regarded as the best. Try patrani machchi (steamed pomfret with spiced coriander paste), or mutton dhansak with berry pulao – a mutton rice dish with tart Iranian barberries. Wash it all down in true Parsi fashion with a raspberry soda.

Afterwards, wander over to Yazdani Bakery (11 Cawasji Patel St, Fort, +91 22 2287 0739) to complete your feast with fiery ginger biscuits and bun maska, a buttered fruit bun that’s perfect with milky chai.

street bitesMumbai loves to graze, as you’ll discover if you join the thousands ambling along Chowpatty and Juhu beaches. Along with balloon sellers, neon-pink fairy floss and man-powered fairground rides, you’ll find gaudy stalls offering tasty snacks. The best is pani puri (crispy pastry with potato, spices and tamarind water), but it’s even better as dahi puri topped with curds and roasted vermicelli. Another favourite is pav bhaji – a mess of diced vegetables cooked on a huge, thick metal chargrill served with a sweet bun and a lashing of melted butter.

Eating from street stalls can be a risk for Western stomachs given the different standards of hygiene, refrigeration and water quality. There are no hard and fast rules for not becoming sick, but the basics are to eat where loads of locals go (preferably with a local as a guide); eat food that’s cooked at a high heat and cooked through; and avoid eating at dirty places.

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Dahi puri, a pastry street snack with potato, spices and yoghurt. Clockwise from below: colourful vendors at Chowpatty Beach; bustling traffic at Crawford Market; the gothic architecture of Victoria terminus station; a boy takes to the stove at a Juhu street stall.

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the melting potAffluent Mumbaikars love foreign food as much as any other big city urbanite, with Japanese and Italian being the flavours of the month. US celebrity (and Iron Chef) Masaharu Morimoto was consulted in the opening of the sleek Wasabi (Taj Mahal Palace, Colaba, +91 22 5665 3366), and its sharp, modern Japanese menu. Stylish Vetro (The Oberoi, Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 6215) stays at the top of the Italian pack with its walls of swivelling coloured glass panels and dishes such as San Daniele prosciutto with rockmelon and Amarone (a dry Italian red wine) reduction; and squid-ink tagliolini with baby lobster.

The city has also had a long-running love affair with Chinese food. Try the ornate, split-level Ming Yang (Taj Lands End, Band Stand, Bandra, +91 22 6668 1234) with its sea views, or Henry Tham (Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bunder, +91 22 2202 3186) for quirky mod furniture and seven-course banquets. (It turns into a bit of a nightclub later).

Another for the itinerary is Thai Pavilion (Taj President, Cuffe Pde, Colaba, +91 22 6665 0808), which has a sexy new look from Japanese design firm Super Potato, combining minimalist lines with walls of intricately-patterned purdah (screen) panels and a slatted patchwork of carved beams. Expect precisely worked Thai dishes of whole fish baked in clay or pomelo salad.

If design is your god as much as modern food, then the cool off-white interior of Pure (Taj Lands End, Bandra, Band Stand, +91 22 6668 1234) might also be your thing. With a focus on organic ingredients, young US chef Joshua Kemper whips up grilled Himalayan trout on mango wood, or tender sous-vide (vacuum-cooked) lobster. In Colaba, chef Rahul Akerkar has become an Indian celebrity for his take on modern cuisine and décor at Indigo (4 Mandlik Rd, Colaba, +91 22 5636 8999) with its rooftop lounge, cocktail bar and menu of modern international flavours.

restobars rising Restobars (restaurants that morph into bars), like Indigo, are big news for young Mumbaikars. In Colaba, couples go to Taxi (Jony Castle Building, 92 Khatau Rd, off

Wodehouse Rd, Colaba, +91 22 2218 4904), with its intentionally disheveled old Euro interior, to smoke hookahs (water pipes), drink beers or snack. Other options include the notorious knock-about travellers bar Leopold Café (Colaba Causeway, + 91 22 2287 3362) for icy cold beer and a menu that ranges from chicken tikka to steak and eggs, or hanging out at the far cooler Busaba (4 Mandlik Rd, Colaba, +91 22 2204 3779), with its Thai-tinged food.

After visiting Chowpatty Beach, or as a break from the mayhem of the cricket at

nearby Wanhkede or Brabourne stadia, try Dome (InterContinental Hotel, 135 Marine Pde, +91 22 3987 9999). This white rooftop oasis attracts a swish crowd for sushi, a strong list of imported whiskies, and a stunning dusk view of the lights that form the Queen’s Necklace around Marine Drive. Downstairs there’s Tsar, a lushly decorated vodka bar that attracts a younger crowd. If you’re extra peckish, nip upstairs to Kebab Corner – the hotel’s family Indian restaurant, which grew up from a street stall like Bade Miya.

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the ornate interior of thai Pavilion. above, from left: Modern Italian Vetro stands out from the crowd; a dabbawallah ferries lunch to office workers in tiffin boxes.

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For a more raucous time, head up to the suburb of Worli and go to the Bombay Dyeing Mill Compound on Pandurang Budhkar Marg. Here you’ll find supercool bar Shiro (+91 22 2438 3008), with its monumental sculptures, day beds for lounging on and a light, Chinese-accented menu. Next door is the far daggier but pumping Hard Rock Cafe (+91 22 2438 2888), where it’s a slightly intoxicating cultural disconnect to find yourself punching the air to Eye of the Tiger with a room full of 300 drunk locals.

Further north, join the cricketers, celebs and Bollywood types at Juhu beach’s restobars, such as Vie Lounge (102, Roop Leela Bungalow, Juhu Tara Rd, Santa Cruz, +91 22 2660 3003) or Aurus (Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu, +91 22 6710 6666). While you’re in Bandra, there’s the mod-Med menu of the rather slick Olive Bar & Kitchen (14 Union Park, Khar, +91 22 2600 8248) or the Japanese-inspired look of Seijo and the Soul Dish (206, Krystal, Waterfield Rd, Bandra, +91 22 2640 5555), which has an Asian-tinged Pacific Rim fusion menu.

cafe fareFor a light meal or something earlier in the day, call into Rahul Akerkar’s extension of his Indigo concept, Indigo Deli (Pheroze Building, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharshi Marg, Apollo Bunder, +91 22 6655 1010). This modern, produce-led cafe wouldn’t be out of place in Surry Hills or South Yarra. If nothing else, come for their chorizo pizza with its crisp, wafer-thin base, or the lime tart. For a similar cafe-cum-wine bar feel, visit Moshe’s (7 Minoo Manor, Cuffe Pde, Colaba, +91 22 2216 1226).

For coffee, try Barista with its branches in Bandra, Cuffe Parade and Chowpatty, although the swish and rather old-school Sea Lounge (The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, see Where to Stay) is a far calmer experience. Gloss over 23 single-origin coffees in favour of a pot of tea from a selection of 41, ranging from Assam and Darjeeling to high-grown Nilgiri. And keep an eye out for aristocratic youth out on parentally sanctioned first dates.

where to stay With its unrivalled history and tradition matched to an impeccable location next to the grand Gateway of India arch, the The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower (Apollo Bunder, Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366, tajhotels.com) is one of the few hotels in the world whose architecture has become part of the iconography of its city. This opulent hotel, with its luxury shopping arcades, garden and pool, is a Victorian oasis. If you can afford it, stay in the far more atmospheric old wing, rather than the modern tower.

Slightly less regal but still very comfortable, the Taj President (90 Cuffe Pde, Colaba, +91 22 6665 0808) boasts a funky cocktail bar, Wink. It’s home to two of the city’s best places to eat (Konkan Cafe and Thai Pavilion) and high-flying Indian chef Ananda Soloman, a leading expert on India’s regional cuisines. The English cricket team is known to be partial to the Trattoria’s pizzas, too.

Lastly, Mumbai’s addresses can be tricky, as every street has a colonial and an Indian name. For a great map, visit: hoteltravel.com/india/mumbai/central_map.htm. If in doubt, ask your concierge or a local to check the address and convey it to the driver of a black and yellow taxi. d.Thanks to Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces and Qantas Airways for assistance with this story. Qantas flies Sydney to Mumbai three times weekly, tel: 13 13 13, visit: qantas.com.au.

a Victorian oasis at the taj Mahal Palace & tower. above: the minimalist

white interior of organic fusion restaurant, Pure, at taj Lands End.