Ethnicechoes

Contrasting colorsand textures define the feel of this comfortable

peyote stitch collar

designed by Virginia Jensen

Custom-fit this collar to lay beautifully on your neckline by carefully placing 110 and 150 seed beads. Finishing touches include loops of seed beads and graceful fringe.

PEYOTE STITCH AND NETTING

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beadandbutton.com | December 2007 81

Ethnicechoes

Being a longtime Egyptophile, I loved the idea of collars, and I started out early to try to make one. I tried netted collars, but they didn’t give me the look I wanted. After making Rebecca Peapples’ two-drop peyote collar from the October 2005 issue of Bead&Button, I decided to use the same technique to realize the base for this design.

stepbystepBoth of these collars begin with a base stitched in modified two-drop peyote. They curve naturally because you stitch 150 seed beads in the inner edge and 80s in the outer edge. The curve of the topaz necklace is greater than the black-and-white one because you use 150s in every other row along the inner edge, as opposed to every fourth row along the outer edge, as in the black-and-white collar. The pattern shown in figure 1 is for the topaz necklace. For a more gentle curve, substitute two 110s for every other group of three 150s. Both collars have netting along the outer edge, but the black-and-white collar also has edging along the top and loops across the front. Embellish your collar as desired.

Collar base[1] On 3 yd. (2.7 m) of thread, pick up a stop bead (Basics, p. 126), leaving a 10-in. (25 cm) tail. Referring to figure 1 for the bead pattern, pick up three 150s and 12 110s. Skip the last four 110s, and sew through the next two (a–b). Work two more two-drop peyote stitches using two 110s per stitch, and exit the first three 150s added (b–c).[2] Work three two-drop peyote stitches, using two 110s per stitch (c–d).[3] Work one stitch with an 80 instead of two 110s (d–e).[4] Work two two-drop peyote stitches using two 110s per stitch (e–f).[5] Work one stitch using either three 150s or two 110s, as explained above, and then work five two-drop peyote

stitches using 110s (f–g). [6] Continue working in modified two-drop peyote, adding thread (Basics) as needed until your collar is 14½ in. (36.8 cm) or the desired length (g–h), keeping the length of the clasp in mind. [7] Work two more rows of two-drop peyote using 110s (h–i). Weave through the beadwork to exit at point j.[8] Pick up half of the clasp, sew into the next two 110s (figure 2), and retrace the thread path several times to rein-force the clasp. Secure the working thread in the beadwork with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim.[9] Remove the stop bead from the tail on the other end of the collar, and repeat steps 7–9 to attach the other half of the clasp.

EmbellishmentsFront loops [1] Secure 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread in the beadwork, and exit figure 3, point a.[2] Pick up a color C 110, a color A 110, a color B 110, an A 110, and a C. Skip over four 110s on the collar base, and sew through the next C (a–b). Sew through the adjacent C in the horizontal row (b–c).[3] Pick up a C, a B 110, an A 110, a B 110, and a C. Skip over four 110s on the collar base, and sew through the next C (c–d). Sew through the next horizontal C (d–e). [4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 along the center rows of stitches until you reach the other end. Secure the tails in the beadwork, and trim.

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PeYOTe STiTCH AND NeTTiNg

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82 Bead&Button | beadandbutton.com

Topedge[1] Secure 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread in the beadwork, and exit one end of the collar at figure 4, point a.[2] Pick up a B 110, a C, and a B 110. Skip the stack of 150s, and sew through the next stack of 110s (a–b). Sew through the next stack of 110s (b–c).[3] Pick up an A 110, and sew back through the stack of 110s your thread is exiting and through the next stack of 110s (c–d).[4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 along the inner edge until you reach the other end. Secure the tails in the beadwork, and trim.

Netting[1] Secure 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread in the beadwork, and exit the first 80 from one end along the outer edge of stitches (figure 4, point a).[2] Pick up three B 110s, a C, an A 110,

a C, and three B 110s. Sew through the next 80 and 110 (a–b). Sew through the adjacent 110 in the horizontal row and back through the 80 and the 110 below it (b–c).[3] Repeat step 2, but pick up only two B 110s at first, then pick up the remaining sequence. Repeat along the outer edge until you reach the other end (c–d). When you reach the last stitch, continue on through the next four 110s (d–e).[4] Pick up a C, two B 110s, a drop bead, two B 110s, and a C. Sew through the A 110 in the next loop of the previ-ous row of netting (e–f).[5] Repeat step 4 until you reach the other end. Secure the tails in the bead-work, and trim.

After 30 years of working in graphic design, Virginia Jensen finds it natural to apply design principles to beading tech-niques. As the graphics trade became more computerized, she liked the idea of returning to working with her hands. Visit Virginia’s Web site, virjenmettle.com.

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maTerialsboth collars• FirelineorPowerPro8lb.test• beadingneedles,#10

black-and-white collarwithout clasp 14½ in. (36.8 cm)• 425x8mmglassorpearldropbeads• Japaneseseedbeads 2gsize80,colorA 30gsize110,ineachof3colors: A,B,C 3gsize150,colorA• clasp

topaz collarwithout clasp 14½ in. (36.8 cm)• 425x8mmglassorpearldropbeads• Japaneseseedbeads 1gsize80,colorD 25gsize110,ineachof3colors: A,B,C 4gsize150,colorB• clasp

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