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Dear Gardener, A joy of winter is time to

read, reflect and make

plans anew. The natural

world is full of things to

learn, things that inspire

and fill us with awe.

Did you know that the

air plants, tillandsias, take

in CO2 at night using

CAM photosynthesis,

instead of in the daytime

like most plants? This

allows them to only open

their pores (stomata) at

night when moisture

losses are much lower. It

is recommended to water

these plants in the morn-

ing. If they are left wet at

night the hairs

(trichomes) on their

leaves mat down and

block the stomata, thus

preventing the plants

from taking in CO2 .

Soon the crocus, grape

hyacinth and early daffo-

dils will bloom. There are

always some daffodils

that bloom in February.

Don’t worry about a

snow. These bulbs are

very cold tolerant!

February 7, 2020

Master Gardener Page 2

Is it Time? 3

Prepare for April 3

Use Horticulture Oils 4

English & Snap Peas 4

Decoding Flowers 5

Rhubarb’s Mysteries 5

Educational Events 6-8

Inside this issue:

College of Agriculture, Food and Environment Cooperative Extension Service Lyon County Extension Service

Lyon County Extension Service | PO Box 36, 231 Main St.| Eddyville, KY 42038 | P: 270-388-2341 | F: 270-388-

Lyon County Extension Garden News

Susan Fox Lyon County Extension Agent For ANR

O, wind, if

winter comes,

can spring be far

behind?”

~ Percy Bysshe

Shelley

Deer Wars! Are deer destroying your

plantings? Deer will sud-

denly devour a plant that

has been untouched for

years.

How do you keep them

at bay? Legal hunting is

helpful in keeping popu-

lations down. Repellents

with egg, capsaicin (hot

pepper), soaps and other

ingredients can be effec-

tive but must be reap-

plied frequently, especial-

ly after a rain.

One of the speakers at a

native plant sale saved

strong-smelling herb

clippings such as laven-

der and oregano. These

were scattered in the

spring around hostas and

other plants the deer are

particularly fond of. The

smell of the herbs in-

creases in rain rather that

washes off.

Strong smelling soap,

such as Irish Spring,

hung or placed near

plants can deter deer. It

works best in the sum-

mer. Unfortunately, in

the winter there are ani-

mals that will eat the

soap as an energy source!

I lost 11 bars in 2018.

Electric fence can work

very well. A single strand

that has aluminum tents

with peanut butter on the

underside, folded over

the electric fence line,

will entice the deer and

other animals to sniff and

then they are shocked

and trained to stay away.

A double electric fence

and two heights can work

as well as deer have poor

perception of this type of

fence and avoid it.

At the UK Research and

Education Center the

apple orchard is sur-

rounded by 10 tall fence

to keep out a very persis-

tent deer herd.

There is not one way that

works for everyone. Per-

sistence and vigilance

help to win the battle!

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Lyon County Master Gardener’s Events Valerie Gilbert, President; Becky Conner, Vice President; Carrie Barnett, Treasurer; Roger Edelbrock, Secretary

Mark Your Calendar!

The Native Plant Sale and Pro-gram will be held on Saturday, April 25. Butterfly Waystations will be one of the topics pre-sented.

The 4-H Mother’s Day Flower Pots will be held on May 7 after school and is open to elementary and middle school youth at Lyon County. Cost TBA.

LCMGA offer a children’s activity at the LBL Hummingbird Festi-val, August 1-2.

The 2020 Christmas Wreath Event is scheduled for December 3.

LCMGA 2019 Christmas

Wreath Event!

2019 Vegetable Variety Trial Summary

By Melodie Metje, LCMG

Summer Squash Varieties

Zephr 10.66 pounds, 17 fruits, Flavor-5, Tenderness-5, Color-5

GR Zucchini 15.78 pounds, 13 fruits, Flavor-4, Tenderness-3, Color-4

GS Squash 5.24 pounds, 11 fruits, Flavor-4, Tenderness-4, Color-4

Bush Beans Varieties

Mascotte 0.98 pounds, 138 beans, Flavor-3.7, Tenderness-4.2, Color-4.2

Bowie 3.41 pounds, 266 beans, Flavor-5, Tenderness-4, Color-4

Above: LBL Hummingbird Festival, painting

Ladybug rocks, a beneficial predator insect.

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Pruning of most trees can start in January, It is best to prune older trees first, young trees in late winter as the wisdom is that they are not as wise and may break dormancy if pruned to early. Maple trees are best pruned in June after they are fully leafed out to reduce sap bleeding.

Lawn Care: Spring seeding of cool season grasses can commence any-time the soil is workable until mid-April. Earlier seedings have more time to establish a good root system before heat sets in. Remember to apply a minimum of nitrogen to cool season grasses in the spring, less than 1/2 pound if you have to, as spring and summer nitrogen applications increase the incidence of brown patch disease and death in lawns. Crabgrass preemergent controls should be applied early, at or just before forsythia bloom.

Fireblight: For apple and pear trees use of a fixed copper dormant spray will reduce the amount of fire blight bacteria that is present.

Sanitation Reduces Diseases: In late winter/early spring remove any re-maining dead leaf, stem, fruit debris to reduce disease carryover.

Divide and replant perennials in early spring, give some to friends!

Butterfly Bushes: Cut back butterfly bushes in early spring. Delaying pruning until spring improves their ability to survive the Kentucky win-ters.

Is it Time? Susan Fox, Extension Agent for ANR Rick Durham, Extension Horticulture Specialist

Prepare the Garden for April Showers

but others will require purchasing seed. Every family has different die-tary wants and needs, so knowing how much of each vegetable to grow is important. Your family may be satisfied with two plants of beans, but you may need 12 tomato plants. Knowing your requirements and put-ting that into consideration when planning your site is helpful.

The size of your garden is also a fac-tor; in smaller areas, vegetables like peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers produce well, but others may not. You are bound to the ground, so plan accordingly.

It is important to remember that the soil nurtures the plants, so you need to nurture the soil. Effective gardens are not formed naturally; they take a great deal of alteration to create. If there is surface grass on the site, re-move it, turn it over with a shovel, or plow the area several weeks before planting. Once you’ve cleared the space, you can begin attending to the soil quality. Organic matter goes a long way in helping the fertility of the soil. Add 1-2 inches of compost, composted manure, peat moss, hu-mus or other organic matter to the surface of the soil, working to a depth of 6-10 inches. If you are con-sidering adding fresh manure, avoid doing so within 120 days of crop harvest.

Soil testing can provide valuable in-formation about your garden site. Contact your county extension office if you are interested in more infor-mation about soil testing.

There is no surer sign of spring than blooming gardens and flower-beds, but what happens behind-the-scenes to get them to that point?

Much of the work goes in before you even break the soil. Before you dig in, it’s important to choose the proper site, plan what you will be growing, and prepare the soil to yield the best possible results. A garden is nothing without a good foundation, making it extra im-portant to choose the correct site.

Temperature is a large factor for optimal garden growth, so avoid low areas and spots bounded on the lower side by a solid fence or dense trees. These tend to create cooler temperatures longer into the spring, unlike the fast-warming tendencies of a southern or southeastern expo-sure. Convenience is key, so make sure to choose a site accessible to your house with enough access to water. Finding a balance between watering your plants and drowning them is vital. Choose a well-drained area, one that typically does not hold water for a day or more after rainfall. If poorly drained soil is dominant in your area, consider a raised bed garden.

Once you select a site, it’s im-portant to have a plan for its layout. Have a general idea of what vegeta-bles or plants you wish to grow in the garden. Some, like tomatoes, peppers, or broccoli, may be availa-ble as transplants from local stores,

The College of Agriculture, Food and Environment is an Equal Opportunity Organization with respect to education and employment and authorization to provide

research, education information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to economic or social status and will not discrimi-

nate on the bases of race, color, ethnic origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status,

genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. Inquiries regarding compliance with Title VI and Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Title

IX of the Educational Amendments, Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act and other related matter should be directed to Equal Opportunity Office, College of Agricul-

ture, Food and Environment, University of Kentucky, Room S-105, Agriculture Science Building, North Lexington, Kentucky 40546.

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Use Horticulure Oils this Winter to Control Spring and Summer Pests

Rick Durham, UK horticulture specialist

Winter probably doesn’t seem like the right time to eliminate pests that will take advantage of your landscape plants next spring. But we need to remember that many problem pests will spend the winter on or near the plants they want to munch on when the weather turns warmer.

One way to get an early handle on problem pests is to use horticultural oils specially formulated for pest control. Horticultural oils suffocate overwintering pests like scale, aphids and certain mites.

These oils are used as a more natural substitute for a traditional insecti-cide. They are an effective chemical control with minimal environmental impact and usually have little effect on beneficial insects and wildlife. Plus, horticultural oils are safe to humans, don’t have an objectionable odor and usually are inexpensive compared to many other insecti-cides.

By using horticultural oils on pests in the overwintering stage, you can avoid a potential outbreak later. This can save time because you might not need treatments in the early spring, or at least need fewer applications.

We do offer some words of caution. Don’t apply a horticultural oil during temperature extremes, especially if the temperature is forecast to drop below 40 degrees F the day before or after application. If you wait until later in the year to use a horticultural oil, don’t apply it if the temperature

could rise above 90 degrees F. Trees and plants are more sensi-tive to injury from a horticultural oil under extreme heat or cold.

As with all chemicals, read and follow the label directions. Also, be sure the product is labeled for the plants to which you’re apply-ing it.

Thorough spray coverage is key to an effective application because horticultural oils only work by contacting and covering the target pests. For best results, use high-volume sprays combined with proper pruning practices to allow thorough plant penetration of the spray material.

Proper timing is critical for suc-cessfully applying these oils. You should apply them before leaves or flowers show signs of breaking dormancy—before bud break. It usually is in late March or early April but might vary by two weeks or more depending on weather conditions. Wait until as close to bud break as possible before ap-plying horticultural oil sprays.

English and Edible Pod Peas

Peas are a cool season vegetable that must be planted in early spring to ensure good yields in Kentucky as they are very sensitive to warm temperatures. Peas grow best between 55 and 65 degrees.

Self-supporting varieties tend to be determinate with large bunches of peas at the top of the plants. Tall, vining varieties are indetermi-nate and will need plant supports

or trellising. Stagger plantings for a more continuous spring harvest.

Soils – Peas grow best in a rich soil, high in organic matter. They require a well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0-6.5.

Types of peas English Pea – standard, shelled pea Edible Pod Pea, Sugar Pea, or Snow Pea – edible pod, pick be-fore seeds swell. Pod become tough as pea seeds develop. Snap Pea – edible pod and plump sweet pea fruit

Plant as early as possible Peas are sensitive to the photoper-iod (length of night), influencing yields. An early spring planting may have a 50% higher yield than a late spring planting. Plant when soil temperatures reach 40°F. Avoid planting in wet soils.

Recommended varieties for Kentucky include: (dwarf) Sugar Ann, Cascadia, Sug-ar Daddy (tall) Super Sugar Snap, Sugar Snap

Irrigation is necessary during drought or if planted late in the spring.

They have only a few pests - aphids, cutworms and sowbugs are the most common. Store peas at cool temperatures immediately after harvest or the sugars will turn to starch and they will lose their sweet flavor. Edible Asian pod types are harvested while the peas are immature and the pods are flat. Harvest every other day. Edible pod snap peas can be har-vested from when the peas begin to form until when pods are well filled.

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Rhubarb’s Mysteries Revealed Jennifer Fishburn, University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator As the season warms up, many gar-deners begin looking forward to their first rhubarb harvests. Alt-hough it was first cultivated in cen-tral Asia more than 2,000 years ago for its medicinal properties, rhu-barb is best known today as an in-gredient in our early-summer pies.

Rhubarb forms thick red, pink, or green stalks—or petioles—with large, extravagant green leaves. It grows best where plants will receive full sun in fertile, well-drained soils that have good organic matter.

Plant rhubarb in the early spring while plants are dormant,. Avoid harvesting the plants the first year, and only lightly harvest for 1 to 2 weeks during the second year. Full harvest may begin the third or fourth year depending on the plant size. At that point, you can go on to harvest for 8 to 10 weeks.

Rhubarb’s sour, tart, tangy flavor is sometimes described as mouth-puckering. Most people find it neces-sary to sweeten rhubarb with sugar, honey, or fruit juice to minimize the tartness. Rhubarb is often combined with strawberries, especially in pies.

The flavor depends on the cultivar. Reliable red-stalked cultivars include: Canada Red, Cherry Red, Crimson Red, MacDonald, Ruby, and Valen-tine. Victoria is a reliable green-stalked cultivar. Generally, the deeper red the stalk, the more flavorful. Medium-size stalks are generally more tender than large ones.

Harvest 10- to 15-inch stalks by snap-ping them, rather than cutting them off. Grab a stalk down where it emerges from the ground, and pull up and slightly to one side. Harvest only one-third of the stalks from a plant at

one time. Immediately after har-vesting, cut off and discard the leaves. If purchasing rhubarb, look for flat, crisp stalks, and leave any curled or limp ones be-hind.”

Rhubarb leaves should never be eaten. They contain oxalic acid, a toxin that can cause poisoning when large quantities of raw or cooked leaves are ingested.

Rhubarb can be stored in the re-frigerator for two to four weeks, if the refrigerator is set between 32 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit and at 95 percent relative humidity. For best results, store unwashed stalks in perforated plastic bags in the crisper drawer.

pies, tarts, breads, cobblers, cakes, jams, sauces, puddings, and salads.

when several colors in various stages of bloom are combined in one arrangement, your floral bouquet can speak a whole sen-tence instead of just one thought!

Here are some of the most wide-ly accepted meanings for differ-ent rose colors, blooms, and ar-rangements:

- Red roses show love, respect, or courage.

- Yellow roses represent joy, gladness, or freedom.

- Pink/peach roses exude grati-tude, appreciation, admiration, or sympathy.

- White roses demonstrate purity or secrecy.

- Two roses joined together dis-play engagement.

- Red and white roses together indi-cate unity.

Additionally, rosebuds say, “you are young and beautiful.” A single rose stands for simplicity. In full bloom, a rose means “I love you” or “I love you still,” and a bouquet of roses in full bloom signifies gratitude.

If you receive fresh flowers from your loved one, follow the following guidelines to ensure the longest vase life. Add water containing floral food to the vase every day. The best flow-er food can be obtained from your floral retailer.

Once the flowers are past their prime, discard them or make the memory last by creating a potpourri out of your rose petals. You can also press and dry the flowers for your memory book. The uses of flowers are endless.

Decoding the Secret Language of Flowers Rhonda Ferree, University of Illinois Horticulture Educator

Do you give flowers to your loved one on holidays and birthdays? Flowers are a great way to communi-cate your love and affection, and some can convey a specific message..

Flowers can represent everything from friendship to true love. For example, chrysanthemums show friendship. Gardenias represent se-cret love. Give a primrose to say, ‘I can’t live without you.’ Lilies, a tradi-tional wedding flower, convey chas-tity, innocence, and purity, while Stephanotis shows happiness in mar-riage. Tulips are given to the perfect lover, and a red tulip declares your love. Orchids are commonly given as corsages to show love and beauty.

No other flower shows more mean-ing than a rose. All roses symbolize love, but certain colors of roses have special meanings. What’s more,

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