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Lunar New Year

To kick off Chinese Year of the Horse, we asked some of Sydney and Melbourne’s top Asian chefs to name their favourite dining spots in their cities and to engage in a little friendly interstate rivalry.

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agrees). “The family who own it is well known and have a cult following,” says Michael. “It’s fast and fresh, and there’s always a line, but you only wait for about 15 minutes. I order the combination pho, and they also have really good chilli sauce,” says Jason. Also worth queuing for are the dumplings at Shanghai Street dumpling (342 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9600 2250). “They have every kind of dumpling and bun you can imagine.” Victor is also a regular here, naming the

pan-fried dumplings “the best in the city”. Stephen Lo, who has also worked with

the Lau family, has recently taken over and reinvented ants bistro (7 Corrs Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9639 2908). “Stephen learnt a lot from our father and he’s taken on a lot of what we do, especially with his use of fresh produce to create good clean food. It’s a great hidden gem.”

The brothers recommend Coda (141 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3155) for a crowd because chef Adam D’Sylva’s French-Vietnamese menu of mostly small bites “offers something different,” says Jason. “The signature dish – roasted yellow duck curry – is amazing.”

Supper inn (15 Celestial Ave, Melbourne, (03) 9663 4759) in Chinatown may be hard to find, but the brothers say it’s a Melbourne institution for late-night dining. “We go with a group after work and order the salt and pepper squab,” says Michael.

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1. Brothers Jason and Michael Lau. 2. Coda’s Hervey Bay scallops. 3. Late-night dining at Supper Inn. 4. Flower Drum. Previous page (clockwise from far left): Sydney’s Mr. Wong; Paddy’s Market; Coda’s crab, chilli & lime betel leaf; Melbourne’s Chinatown; Chow Bar & Eating House; The Century; tempura udon at Nama Nama; Emperor’s Garden butcher.

Jason & Michael lauWhile they’ve gained a following for their ma po tofu since opening lau’s family kitchen (4 Acland St, St Kilda, (03) 8598 9880) seven years ago, brothers Jason and Michael have restaurant pedigree in their blood. “My father, Gilbert, opened flower drum (17 Market Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9662 3655) in 1975,” says Michael. And even though he sold the restaurant in 2003, it’s still where the Lau family head for special occasions. “It’s great for parties and has good food and service,” he says. “I love the Peking duck, I would go just for that.”

For a quick bite that’s more traditional, the brothers head to Crystal Jade (154 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9639 2633), a Hong Kong-style eatery. “They do good barbecue pork, noodles, seafood and all the Chinese classics,” says Jason.

One of their former waiters recently opened eC kitchen (1 Sir John Monash Dr, Caulfield East, (03) 9571 7665), which has a casual student vibe. “It’s simple and cheap with a focus on noodle bowls,” says Jason, who recommends the wonton soup. i love pho (264 Victoria St, Richmond, (03) 9427 7749) is another favourite for noodles (Victor Liong, see opposite,

“Supper Inn is a Melbourne institution for late-night dining.”

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1. Nama Nama. 2. Chef Victor Liong. 3. Neil Perry’s Spice Temple at The Crown. 4. Japanese restaurant Izakaya Den. 5. Lee Ho Fook’s elegant raw ocean trout and jellyfish salad.

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barbecue has got to be one of the best in the world. The unique cooking techniques add tremendous depth of flavour,” he says.

For refined Cantonese cooking, Victor’s pick is flower drum. “It’s hands down the best Chinese restaurant experience

in Australia,” he says. “Their stir-fried pearl meat with spring onions and white garlic chives is an example of perfection lying in simplicity, but my favourite dish is not actually on the menu and made on request. It’s crabmeat soup dumplings – they kill and cook the crab to order.”

According to Victor, the ramen game in Melbourne is still early days, but

udon is perfected at nama nama (31 Spring St, Melbourne, (03) 9649 9500). “Their noodles are silky and their broths clean and flavoursome. Small pony glasses of tap beers for $5 accompanying great noodles, what’s not to love?”

When he’s heading out for a big night, Victor’s choice is Neil Perry’s Melbourne outpost of Spice temple (The Crown, Southbank, (03) 8679 1888). “It’s a slick restaurant with a large menu offering great variety and a fantastic drinks list. I could drink their Rickshaw cocktails all day long,” says Victor.

Victor liongAfter working at Marque and Mr. Wong in Sydney, 28-year old Victor recently moved to Melbourne to open “new-style Chinese” diner lee ho fook (92 Smith St, Collingwood, (03) 9077 6261). When he’s not busy in his own kitchen he’s exploring the best Asian eats in his new hometown.

“I go to izakaya den (114 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9654 2977) at least once a month,” says Victor, whose go-to dishes include grilled ox tongue, stir-fried eel with water spinach and mushrooms, scallops with garlic soy butter, duck liver pâté with wonton skins and Japanese omelette with cod roe.

For a taste of home, Victor – whose grandparents are Chinese and parents were born in Malaysia – heads to mamak (366 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9670 3137). “The roti and thin curry gravies will always remind me of my childhood in Southeast Asia, the formica tables and the waiters wearing Crocs make it authentic. Get the teh tarik, a frothy milk-based tea, or Milo made with condensed milk.”

pacific Seafood bbQ house (210 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9826 3838) offers a huge variety of seafood and roasted meats. Victor says their roast duck, char siu and roasted pork belly are “off the chain”. He also recommends the chicken ribs with salted egg yolk sauce from the a la carte menu. “Chinese

“Chinese barbecue has got to be the best in the world.”

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Dan hongThe hipster chef, who grew up in a restaurateur family, has helped reinvent Chinese dining in Sydney. When he clocks off from his roles as executive chef at mr. wong (3 Bridge Ln, Sydney, (02) 9240 3000), Manly’s new Papi Chulo, Ms. G’s and El Loco, he heads to Korean restaurant arisun (1 Dixon St, Sydney, (02) 9264 1588), known for its fried chicken, beer jugs, soju shots and K-pop. “They make their own noodles, but the real attraction is the fried chicken” says Dan. Another top late-night spot is quaint eaton Chinese restaurant (313 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield, (02) 9798 2332). “I come here to escape the hustle of Chinatown. They do really good live seafood and crispy-skinned fried pigeon,” says Dan. “I call it the poor man’s Golden Century.”

Speaking of which, golden Century (393 Sussex St, Haymarket, (02) 9212 3901), is a hop from Dan’s CBD home, and his pick for traditional Cantonese. “Owners Eric and his wife

Linda have been doing the same food for the past 24 years and it’s still the best place to have live seafood,” says Dan. “Their steamed lobster with XO sauce is one of my top dishes, and their salt and pepper mud crab the best I’ve ever had. Golden Century is one of the biggest influences for Mr. Wong.” Eric and Linda’s son Billy opened the Century (The Star, Pyrmont, (02) 9566 2328), which has a similar menu to the original, but with a more sophisticated atmosphere. “The best dish is stir-fried lobster with ginger and spring onion,” says Dan.

While the rest of us are buying our morning latte, Dan is at happy Chef (Sussex Centre Food Court, Haymarket), which specialises in noodle soups. His order: ‘Number 1’ ($8), a Cambodian noodle soup with pork, beef, prawns, blood jelly, pig’s liver, choy sum and spring onion in a clear broth. “This place is always buzzing. Their laksa is one of the best in town,” says Dan.

When it comes to specialty dishes, Dan has a “soft spot” for the Peking duck

at lao zhou good luck Chinese restaurant (180 Liverpool Rd, Enfield, (02) 9747 4625). “You have to pre-order the duck and let the chef know what time you’re coming in, as he will only serve it fresh from the oven,” says Dan. Mr. Wong’s dumpling chef Eric Koh steams everything to order. “Eric is a dim sum master. He’s worked at Hakkasan in London and Lei Garden in Singapore, and continually comes up with the best flavour combinations.”

1. Chef Dan Hong. 2. The sophisticated atmosphere of The Century at The Star. 3. Arisun’s fried chicken and beer. 4. Eric Koh’s fresh-steamed dumplings at Mr. Wong. opposite: Momofuku Seiobo at The Star.

“Golden Century is one of the biggest influences for Mr. Wong.”

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chui lee luk Despite swapping her fine-diner Claude’s for the more relaxed Chow bar & eating house (320 Crown St, Surry Hills, (02) 8095 9058), Chui Lee Luk, who grew up in Sabah, Malaysia, still appreciates a big ticket dinner at momofuku Seiobo (The Star, Sydney, (02) 9777 9000). “The food and service are consistently wonderful, and they have a great wine list,” says Chui, whose favourite dish is wagyu with Korean-style black bean sauce and radish. “I like sitting at the bar watching the chefs calmly preparing each dish.”

When she’s in the mood for the classics, emperor’s garden (96 Hay St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 2135) is the old-style Chinese restaurant that Chui always returns to. “I like the roasted meats, such as pork with crackling, as only the Chinese know how to make, char siu and roast duck.” Their butcher next door, is also Dan Hong’s go-to place for good-quality pork at bargain prices.

Another favourite she shares with Dan is Chinese noodle house (8 Quay St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 4508) for their

zha jiang mian, the northern-Chinese answer to spaghetti bolognese – thick noodles topped with stir-fried pork mince.

 For a taste of home, Chui likes alice’s makan (580, George St, Sydney, (02) 9262 7771) for their assortment of kuihs (sweet Malaysian steamed rice cakes), which you have to reserve before ordering your main meal. “I really like the char kway teow, which is famous Malaysian hawker fare of stir-fried rice noodles with a selection of toppings including prawns, Chinese sausage, eggs and bean sprouts.” Another specialty that reminds Chui of Southeast Asia are the moreish peanut pancakes at bakso house (341 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, (02) 9662 3706).

ramen ikkyu (401 Sussex St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 0998) in Chinatown is best for noodles. “Tsuke-men (a deconstructed ramen, where the noodles and toppings are served in a separate bowl to the soup) is my favourite style as it’s light but filling, and has an intense acidity to it.” And when noodles won’t cut it, Chui heads to @ bangkok (730 George St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 5232). “They serve fantastic

deep-fried fish and deep-fried chicken. Plus there’s a band playing until close. I’m slowly learning the Thai Top 40!”

For ingredients, Chui likes Jasmine asian Supermarket (194 Burwood Rd, Burwood, (02) 9715 6868) with staff who have an “encyclopaedic knowledge” of the items they stock; dong nam a & Co (14 Campbell St, Sydney, (02) 9212 6673) where she can practice her Cantonese; and for inspiration, she peruses the produce at paddy’s markets in Haymarket. d.

“Chinese Noodle House serves the Chinese answer to bolognese.”

1. Chef Chui Lee Luk. 2. Tsuke-men – deconstructed ramen – from Ramen Ikkyu. 3. Fresh produce at Paddy’s Market. 4. Sydney’s new restaurant Chow Bar & Eating House. 5. Thai restaurant @ Bangkok.

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