PeterMeehan,editorialdirectorMary-FrancesHeck,recipedevelopmentGabrieleStabile,

photography

MarkIbold,foodstyling&malehandmodelingHannahClark,propstyling

JoannaSciarrino,managingeditorRicaAllannic,RachelKhong,BretteWarshaw,ChrisYing,

editorsWalterGreen&HelenTseng,designandlayoutJasonPolan,illustrations

KateSlate,copyeditor

EnaBrdjanovic&SaiSumar,internsSpecialthanksto:DannyBowien,DaveChang,Joanne

Chang,AngelaDimayuga,FuschsiaDunlop,TonyKim,MikiTakana,ReginaKwanPeterson,

AndyRicker,LaurieWoolever,BaryYuenCopyright©2015byLuckyPeach,LLC

Photographscopyright©2015byGabrieleStabileIllustrationscopyright©2015byJason

PolanAllrightsreserved.

PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyClarksonPotter/Publishers,animprintoftheCrown

PublishingGroup,adivisionofPenguinRandomHouse,LLC,NewYork.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.clarksonpotter.com

CLARKSONPOTTERisatrademarkandPOTTERwithcolophonisaregisteredtrademarkof

PenguinRandomHouse,LLC.

HotandSourSoupadaptedfromJoanneChang’sFlour,Too:IndispensableRecipesfortheCaf�’s

Most-LovedSweets&Savories(ChronicleBooks,2013).

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataMeehan,Peter,1977–author.

LuckyPeach101easyAsianrecipes/PeterMeehanandtheeditorsofLuckyPeach;

PhotographsbyGabrieleStabile.—FirstEdition.

pagescm

Includesindex.

1.Cooking,Asian.I.Luckypeach.II.Title.

TX724.5.A1M442015

641.595—dc232015015729

ISBN 9780804187794

eBookISBN 9780804187909

eBookdesignadaptedfromprintbookdesignbyWalterGreen

CoverdesignbyWalterGreenv3.1

a+prh

ForBigH,LittleH,andJoni-Bird

Contents

Introduction

Equipment

PantryNoodlesRiceLevel1:BasicLevel2:IntermediateLevel3:Champion

ColdDishes,Apps,andPicklyBitsSoy’n’SugarCucumberPicklesChineasyCucumberSaladSilkenTofuSnackOshitashiSeaweedSaladSoySauceKimchiSummerRollsGadoGadoDip

ScallionSaladSoySauceEggsSpicyColdCeleryDashimakiTamagoGreenPapayaSaladDollarDumplingsShrimpandChiveDumplingsVegetableDumplings

BreakfastComTamBreakfastSt.PaulSandwichMisoSoupNasiLemak

PancakesApamBalikOkonomiyakiScallionPancakesBeefRollKoreanPumpkinPancakeKimchiPancakeMooShuPancakesMooShuVegetables

SoupsandStewsBeefNoodleSoupRotisserieChickenRamenChickenNoodleSoupMisoClamChowderDoenjangJigae

SlowCookerPhoHotandSourSoupMassamanCurrySoy-BraisedShortRibsTofuinKombuDashiHotPot

NoodlesEconomyNoodlesColdSobawithMushroomsandLeekJapChaePadSeeEwPestoRamenHiyashiSomenSichuanPorkRaguSpicyMushroomRaguSichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeef

RicesChineseSausageFriedRiceThaiHerbFriedRiceUmeRiceKabochaRiceJumukBapOnigiriKimbapStickyRiceWrappedinLotusLeavesOmurice

WarmVegetablesGreenswithWholeGarlicDry-FriedGreenBeans

BokChoywithOysterSauceMiso-GlazedEggplantRoastedSquashwithRedGlazeStir-FriedAsparagusWarmEggplantwithGreenPeppersCornCheeseRoastedSweetPotatoes

ChickenFive-SpiceChickenLacqueredRoastChickenSpicyRoastChickenOyakodonChickenAdoboHainanChickenRiceMallChickenKoreanGrilledChickenLemongrassChickenBraisedChickenWingsMisoClaypotChicken(NoClaypot)ChineseChickenSalad

MeatsBeefSatayCuminLambLamburgersThai-StyleLettuceCupsLion’sHeadMeatballsRedRoastPorkFishSauceSpareribsMacanesePorkChopBun

Pan-RoastedRibEyewithMs.Kwok’sBlackPepperSauce

SeafoodTodMunFishCakesMs.VoThiHuong’sGarlicShrimpMiso-RoastedFishCoco-CurriedMusselsClamswithLemongrassinaVietnameseStyleKungPaoShrimpSquidandGrapefruitSaladSteamedWholeFish,TwoSauces

SuperSaucesDannyBowien’sGinger-ScallionSauceDaveChang’sGinger-ScallionSauceCarrot-GingerDressingOctoVinaigretteNuocChamSambalTofuDressingOddFlavorSauce

DessertOrangesEggCustardTarts

Acknowledgments

Index

Introduction

Theseedsofthisbookwereplantedyearsago,beforeLuckyPeachwasevenatwinkleinourcollectiveeyes.DaveChangandIwereinSanFranciscotogetherdoingapromoeventforourbook,Momofuku.Toourgreatsurprise,we’dheardthatMomofukuhadclimbedontothelowerrungsofaNewYorkTimesbestsellerlist,soweboughtapapertocheckoutthestandings.InsidewesawAdHocatHomebyThomasKellerjustcrushingus,smashingourskulltosplinterswithitshigh-polishclogs.

BecauseAdHocisagoodbook(andTheFrenchLaundryCookbookwasamajorinfluenceoneverythingthatcameafterit),thebestcriticismwecouldmountwas,That’snotreally“at-home”cooking!Wejokedinanotentirelyunseriouswayaboutdoingabookcalled101EasyAsianDisheswhereinnoneoftherecipeswouldactuallybeeasy—we’dpromiseonethingandsellanother.ChrisYing,whowasthenthepublisherofMcSweeney’s,wasinthecarwithusatthetimeofthesefirstconversations.I’dworkedwithChrisonastoryderivedfromthebookfortheverybonkersthirty-thirdissueofMcSweeney’s,soIknewhe’dbesympathetic.DaveandIhadhalfwayinvitedhim,halfwaykidnappedhimintohangingoutwithustwenty-fourhoursadayduringoursix-daypromotionalstayinthecitybytheBay.Hewasafirmsupporterofthecause.

BackinNewYorkIgottoworkonit.Iremembersettingpineapplejuicewithagaragarinsidejalapeños,thenslicingtheresultssoaringoffierygreenwouldencircleadiskofcoolsweetyellowfruitjelly.TheseweregoingtogoonaHawaiianpizza(HawaiibeingmoreorlesspartofAsiatheway

wewerecountingit).ButthenwestartedthisTVshowprojectthatbecameTheMindofaChef

andbegatourmagazine,LuckyPeach,andthenthatbecamethebeastthatswallowedmylife.Yingwasnolongeraninnocentandenthusiasticbystander,butacollaboratorandeventuallymypartnerincrimeinrunningtheoperation.

Whentherollercoasteroflaunchingthemagazinehitaflatpatch—or,really,whenweacclimatizedtoitsspeed,becauseithasn’tsloweddownatall—itwastimetothink:What’sthefirstLuckyPeachbookgoingtobe?Ipushedforittobethatprimordialversionof101attheoutset,butitquicklyfeltwrong.Foronething,wenowhadamagazineinwhichwecouldairourcraziestdirty-idealaundry,andwe’dregularlydonethat—publishinginsanelycomplicatedrecipeswaspartofour9-to-5gig.PlusI’dhadtwokidsintheinterimandreconnectedwiththebeautyand,moreessentially,thenecessityofgoodandeasywaystogetdinneronthetable.

Andso101,whichhadalwaysbeenajoke,morphedintoanearnestthing,aprojectwherewecouldpublishsimpleandflavorfulrecipeswiththehomecookinmind.Mostfoodmagazinesstartoutwiththatgoal;forus,itwasanewchallenge.Andtheresultsoftakingonthatchallengearewhatyouholdinyourhands.

Attheoutset,Isetforthtworulestohemusin:

1.NoFryingFryingisn’thardintheleast,butitmakesamess,andifyoucookatallathome,youknowthatcleaningupishalfthebattle.I’msurewe’lldoabookofallfriedfoodsatsomepointtomakeupfortherestraintexercisedhere.

2.NoSubrecipesThisturnedouttobearulethathadtobebroken,becausenomatterhoweasyyoumakethings,sometimescookingrequiresadditionalcooking.Butwekeptittoaminimumandtriedtobehonestaboutit.Weavoidedanythinglike,“Makethismealintenminutesaslongasyouspendawholedaytheweekbeforecookingajarofgoopthatyou’llneveractuallyuseforanythingelse!”(Thereisasmallchapterofflavorfulgoopstowardthebackofthebookthatyouwillusefrequently.They’reourgo-toSuperSaucesthatcanbedumpedovernearlyanyfoodlingeringinyourfridgetoturnitintodeliciousdinners.)

Asfaraswhatwemeanby“easy,”it’sallaboutpracticalconsiderations.Somerecipesmightsitonyourstoveorinaslow-cookerforacouplehours,butthatdoesn’tmakethemdifficult.Somerecipes,likethedumplings,mightrequireanhourofactivekitchenwork,butwedon’texpectthosetobeweeknightmeals,andwefigurethereturnmorethanjustifiestheinvestmentoftime.

Ofcourse,manyoftherecipesinthisbookcallforingredientsthatyoucan’tbuyatthelocalgasstation.Butintheageofonlinegrocerysuppliers,evenhermitscanarrangeforadeliveryofafullpantry’sworthofgoodstotheirlocaltrailheadandhave98percentofthedishescontainedhereinontheirtablethenextnight.Ipersonallyfindthethrillofphysicallyseekingouttheseproductsinactualmarketstobeaboutasmuchfunandrewardingasmostguysmyagefindfantasysports,golf,orstripclubs,whichistosayalot.Buttoeachhisown.Justdon’tcryintoyourpillowabouthowyoucan’tfindthem,becauseyoucan.

Thelastthingtoaddressbeforewegetontotherealshowhereisthe“Asian”thing.WeareacutelyawarethatAsia’ssizeandcomplexityaresovastthatitisaridiculousideatoreduceitscuisines—eachitsownprivateinfinityonceyoubegintoparseregionsandsubregionsandthevariationsandinnovationsthatindividualcooksemployintheirkitchenseveryday—downto101recipesthatarerepresentativeofanything.There’snothingfromIndiainhere,orTajikistanforthatmatter;Cambodiagetsshortshrifttoo.Ifonethinghasremainedfromtheoriginalideafor101itisourcavalierandlabradoodle-enthusiasticapproachtowhatwemeanwhenwetalkaboutAsia.Completenessisanimpossibility,andnotourgoal.

Weappreciatehyperspecific,traditionalrecipesthatcallfortrulyhardlaborandcriminallyobscureingredientsasmuchasthenextnerd;weandmanyofourfriendsoftencookandwriterecipesinthatvein.Butweallworklonghoursandcomehomehungrytocoldkitchens,orhavekidstofeed,orwanttocookbecause,whendaysarechaotic,thereisarestorativebeautytotheorderandpurposeofcuttingthingsupandturningthemintosustenance.Forwhateverelseyoucan’tcontrol,youcanputdinneronthetable.Therecipesinthisbookaremeanttobefuelforthosemoments,solutionstothosesituations.

Sowechosefavoritedishesandrecipesthatwerenaturallysimple.Westrippeddownsomethingsintoreasonablefacsimilesoftheirsourcematerial.Otherrecipesappearherebecausethey’reafunnypartofthecomicallybroadideaofwhat“Asian”cuisineencompassesforus,even

comicallybroadideaofwhat“Asian”cuisineencompassesforus,eventhoughtheirgenesisanddiasporaaredistinctlylate-twentieth-centuryAmerican.

Aboveall,wetriedtohavefun,andtoputtogetherafolioofkitchenideasthatyoucanturntoforeasyeatingonareal-lifescheduleandbudget.Digit,anddigin.

—PeterMeehanandtheeditorsofLuckyPeach

Inmakingthisbookwereallytriedtowhittledowntherequiredequipment.Theitemsyouseeherearethingsthatmadeourexperienceofcookingthisfoodbetterandeasier.Thetwothingsyouhavetoget:awok(1)andaricecooker(2).

I’dadvisespringingforaricecookerwithatimer,soyoucanhaveitmakefreshhotriceforyouwhenyougetupinthemorningorgethomefromworkatnight.Youcertainlydonotneedaricecookertomakerice—apot,afaucet,andanyprimitiveheatsourcewillgetthejobdone—butalmosteverybodyIknowfromarice-eatingpartoftheworldusesone,andsincebeingconverted,Idotoo.It’saworthwhileconvenience:It’snotmoreofamessthanapot,andonceyouaddthericeandthewater(andanyflavorings,shouldyougodownthatroad),it’sdone,andyoucanfocusontherestofthemeal.

DonotbuyanonstickwokorIwillcometoyourhouseandbeatyouovertheheadwithit.GotoaChinatownifthere’sonenearyou,anddonotspendmorethan$20.Itshouldbethinbutsturdy,madeofsteel,andflat-bottomedsoitworksonyourstove.Mostwokswillcomewithinstructionsforhowtheyshouldbeseasoned;theshortversionisthis:Washwell,heatoverhighheat,addalotoffat,andstir-fryabunchofchoppedchivesuntilthey’recompletelyhammered,about10minutesorso.Cool,rinseclean,andit’sreadytouse.

Asfarastherest,awokspatula(3)isapleasurabletoolforpushingfoodaroundawok,whichissomethingthisbookwillaskyoutodooften.Ihonestlydidn’townone—I’dalwaysusedflatwoodenspoons—untilwestartedpullingthiscollectiontogether,andIwon’tdowithoutonegoingforward.(Also,westartedreferringtoitasawokshovel,whichjustmakesmelikeitmore.)

Thespider(4)istheslottedspoonoftheAsiankitchen.Itisworthmorethanthe$3itwillcostyou.Themortarandpestle(5)isapaintohaulhomefromthestore,butitreallydoesmakecertainthings,particularlyThaithings,tasteright.Youcanabsolutelydowithoutone,butifyougetintomakingcurrypastes,you’lllikeowningone.Buyafairlysizablemodelifyouspringforone,onethatholdsatleast2cupsofstuff,soyoucanuseitfordisheslikethepapayasalad.

OnecouldwriteatelephonebookortwoaboutAsiannoodlesandprobablyleavealotout,sowe’llavoidstrayingintothatterritoryhere.Anycity/town/unincorporatedmunicipalitywithagoodAsiansupermarketortwowillhavemostofthese,andtheInternethastherest.Freshramenandfreshricenoodlesarethetwohardesttocomebyonaccountoftheirfreshness.ButIrecentlycameacrossvacuum-sealedpackagesoffreshricenoodles(marketedasPadSeeEwNoodles,whichis,infact,howweusethem)atthelocalWholeFoods,andfreshramenisslowlystretchingitsalkalinetendrilsacrossAmerica,thankslargelyto(theexcellent)SunNoodlecompany.

Unlessyou’rebuyingyournoodleslikeloosiesoutofthebackofatrucktokeepcostsdown,everythingwillbesoldwithcookinginstructionsandtimesontheirpackaging.Followthem.

1.Ramen

Freshramennoodlesareaworldapartfromthestuffinyourcupofnoodles,andareworthseekingout.Theyaretoothsomeinamannerdifferentfrom,butrecalling,freshpasta,withadistinctiveflavorthat’sthetiniestbitsulfurousinaverygoodway.Ifyoucan’tfindthemandaresomekindoftypeAoverachievingpersonwho’sslummingithereinaneasycookbook,checkourwebsite—ortheInternetingeneralifLuckyPeachhasgonethewayofthedodo—forasimplerecipetomakethemyourself.

2.SobaSobanoodlesaremadewithbuckwheat,whichlaysclaimtotheirdistinctiveflavor.Freshsobaistoodelicatetobesoldcommerciallyinanyscalableamounts,soyou’llbecookingwithdried.Aboutthis,behappy.

3.UdonUdon,athickwheatnoodlefromJapan,iskindoftheworkingman’snoodle.Udonmakersactuallyjumpupanddownonbagsofthenoodledoughtomaximizethegluten,andtheresultisaheartynoodlethatcanstanduptohotbrothorbigflavors.They’renotspecificallycalledforinanyrecipesherein,butthey’dgowellwithanyoftheragusandthetwoginger-

scallionsauces,orasanalternativetosomenorsoba.

4.LomeinLomeinarethesizeandshapeofthickspaghettiandyellowfromegg(notfoodcoloring).Werecommendcookingthemforaminuteortwotoloosenthemup,butlettingthemfinishcookinginwhateverstir-fryorbrothsituationyouhavegoing.

5.RicenoodlesThetwomaincategoriesofricenoodlesarefreshanddried.Freshricenoodlescanbedelicateandfineorsturdyandstir-fryable.Wecallforthemonlyonce,inPadSeeEw,whichismadewiththefreshwidericenoodlescalledsenyai.Freshricenoodlesclumpeasily,andsometimesnoviceusers(likeme,onceortwice)willtrytoboilthemtogetthenoodlesseparated.Wordtothewise:Thatcooksthemintoalump.Instead,peelthemapartinacolanderundercoldrunningwater—therewillbewinnersandlosersintheprocess,noteverybodycomesoutwhole—andthenuseasdirected,withahotwok.

DriedricenoodlesareastapleofSoutheastAsiancooking.Themostwidelyavailablekindareflat-ishnoodles,oftenlabeled“sticks”insteadofnoodles,thataregreatinsoups(liketheTaiwanese-ishsoup)andstir-friedwithdeeplyflavoredsauces.Theydon’trequiremuchcooking.

Ricepaperwrappersareanothermemberofthedriedricenoodlefamily.Sometimescalledspringorsummerrollskins,they’reusedtowrapupdeliciousthingsinSoutheastAsiancooking.Theyfeellikeplasticoutofthepackage,butafteraquicksoakinhotwater,they’rereadytouse.

6.Wonton/dumplingwrappersSure,youcouldmakeyourowndumplingskins.Youcouldalsousesimplehouseholdtoolstotakecareofyourdentalhealthneeds.ButlifeisnotabigHeyLookWhatICanMakecompetition,socelebratethelittleshortcuts,likecheapandplentifulwontonwrappers.Thesquarewrapperslendthemselvesbettertoboiling(likeinwontonsoup)andtheroundwrapperstopan-frying(thinkpotstickersorgyoza),buttheruleshereareneitherhardnorfast.

7.Somen

7.Somen

SomenarethinwheatnoodlesfromJapanused,mostfamously,forHiyashiSomen,thehot-weathernoodledish.

8.Sweetpotatonoodles(notpictured)Likeglassyspaghettiwithagoodchew,theseKoreannoodlesareenjoyingamomentbecausetheyarerecommendedonthePaleodiet.(CavemenlovedKoreanfood.)Thismeansyoumightbeabletofindthematyourlocalhealthfoodstore.

Almostallofthedishesinthisbookthatdon’tfeatureastarch(i.e.,noodlesor,occasionally,bread)aremeanttobeeatenwithrice.Steamed/boiled/“plain”whitericeisthestandardaccompaniment,butnotallwhitericeisthesame.Here’saquickguide:

Chinese,Vietnamese,andmostThaidishesgowithjasminerice.JapaneseandKoreandishesgowithmedium-grainorshort-grain(“sushi”)rice.StickyriceisforThaicurriesandspicythings—ittakesmoretimethantheothers,butisn’thardtomake.Wehaveeschewedexoticricevarietiesinthisbook,thoughthere’snoreasonyoucan’tusethem.

1.JasmineJasminericeisalong-grainricegrown(predominantly)inThailand.Ithasanextremelysubtlefloralfragrance,whichiswherethenamecomesfrom.

2.Medium-grainYoucanbuyareallybigbagofmedium-grainriceforwhatyoumightpayforaregularbagofniceshort-grainrice.Youmightbetemptedtoseeitastheworkaday/workhorseJapaneseandKoreanrice.Andmaybeitis.Itsoaksupthestews,sauces,andbrothslikenoother.

3.Sticky(orglutinous)Stickyriceistheonlyoneyoudon’tcookinaricecooker.Tomakeit:Bundleup1½cupsofriceincheeseclothandsubmergeitinabowlofcoldwaterfor3hours.Thenputasteameroverapotofwaterthat’sboiling

hardandsteamthatbundlefor30minutes.Eathotorwarm.Keepthericewarmandstickybywrappingthebundleinplasticwrap.

4.BrokenBrokenriceisjasminericegrainsthathavebeen,youguessedit,brokenduringprocessing.Onsomelevel,thisisa“lower-quality”rice,butthequalitiesithas—itstickstogetherabitmoreandstrikesmeas(unscientifically)morefragrant—areworthaspineverynowandagain.IncludedspecificallyforusewiththeVietnamesesausagebreakfast.

5.Short-grain/sushiThestubbylittlericethatgoeswith/inallyourJapaneseandKoreancooking.There’sarealrangeofthiskindofricethat’savailable,fromcheaper,American-grownstufftofancyJapanesevarietals.OurbluntbuthopefullyhelpfulGoldilocksadviceonthat:Don’tscrapethebottomofthebarrel,butdon’treachforthecloudseither.Themiddleisjustright.

PictorialPantry

Look,weknowtheInternetisoutthere.Andonityoucanfindalmostanything,frompicturesofdogsonsurfboardstomultilayeredanalysesofwhetherornotThomasPynchonpredictedparalleluniversesdecadesbeforetheHadronSupercollidergavescientistsreasontothinktheymightexist.ButthepullofGravity’sRainbowaside,whatwewantedtodoherewasgiveyouasimplevisualandfactualorientationtowhatwecookedwithaswemadethisbook,soyouknowwhatyou’relookingforasyoupawthroughtheaislesofaforeignsupermarketand/orthemurkydepthsofthird-partysellerpagesonAmazon.com.

Wedividedourpantryintobasic,intermediate,andchampionlevelsbecause(a)itwouldhavebeenreallyhardtogeteverythinginoneshotand(b)theselevelsreflectthenecessityoftheingredients.

1.Soysauce

OurpreferredsoysaucesareJapanese-madeandarelabeledusukuchi,whichissometimescalled“light”soysauce.(Thatlightnessisincolor;donotconfuseitwithlow-sodiumsoysauce.)Wetestedtherecipesherewitha

rangeofdifferentstorebrands,andtheyshouldworkwitheventheKikkomanbottleyouswipedoffthelocaltake-outplace’sto-gocounter.

2.SesameoilDon’tbeafraidtopayalittlemoreforsomethingnicerthanbasic,butbuyasmallbottle—alittlebitgoesalongway,andsesameoildoesn’timprovewithage.

3.Peanuts

Planter’scocktailpeanutsinarguablygetthejobdoneandaresowidelyavailableyoucanprobablybuythematthegasstation.

4.Tahini

Tahiniispuréedsesameseeds.GetsomethingfromaMiddleEasterngroceryifpossible.

5.Mirin

Mirinisasweet,sake-likefermentedricewineproductthat’sabuildingblockofJapanesecuisine.RealmirinissweetandalcoholicandhardtofindoutsideofadedicatedJapanesegrocery;honmiriniswhatyou’llfindinmostplaces.It’ssomesortofdebasedindustrialversionoftherealdeal,sweetenedwithcornsyrup,andit’sa100percentacceptablesubstitutethatmakesperfectlydeliciousfood.

6.Sesameseeds

AtLuckyPeach,wehaveoneinternwhoseonlyjobistoharvestsesameseedsoffofthetopofafewdozenBigMacbunseveryweekforthetestkitchen.Ifyoudon’thavethemeanstohireasesameintern,buyyoursinsmallquantities,asnobody,notevenRonaldMcDonald,likesrancidoldseed.

7.OystersauceAfunkysaucemadefromfermentedoysters.Keepsforever.

8.RicevinegarEssential.Sometimescalledricewinevinegar.Makesureyou’renotbuyingthe“seasoned”stuff,whichseemstofilltheshelves.Ricevinegarislessacidicthanwhite,sherry,andevenwinevinegars(ataround4%acidity)sokeepthatinmindifyou’resubstitutingsomethingelseforit.

9.Fishsauce

Peopleofteninvoketheslurpingofthefirstrawoysterwhentheytalkabouthowcrazyitisthatwehumanseatsuchawiderangeoffloraandfauna.Forme,Ithinkofthefirstcrazybastardwhostoodoverabarrelofanchoviescoveredinrainwaterthathadbeensittingoutinthesummersunforweeksandthoughttohimself,“Ohyeah,I’mgonnasprinklethatjuiceallovermydinnertonight!”

ButhewasageniusandIdoffmycaptohim.Fancyfishsauce—likeRedBoatandMegachef—isworthitifyou’reflush,butifthat$6differenceinthepriceofabottlebothersyou,Squidbrandhasservedmereliablyforyears.

10.StaraniseTheprettiestofalltheherbsandspices.Whenyou’reshoppingforit,looktoseethatthestar-shapedpodsareintact.

11.SambaloelekAspicy,garlickychilicondimentthatisgoodoneverythingfrompizzatoeggs.

12.MisopasteFunkysaltyfermentedsoybeans.Buyatubofthered(aka)misoandatubofthewhite(shiro)miso.Theykeepformonthsintherefrigeratorandcanbeusedinterchangeablyinapinch.

13.ShaoxingwineMostofyourmustyoldAsian-ishcookbooks,theforefathersofthisbook,willnotethatyoucansubstitutesherryforShaoxingwine.Thisistrue—theyshareasimilaroxidizedflavor.Butoneday,inthemakingofthisbook,wereachedbeyondthe“cooking”Shaoxingwineandponiedup$15forabeautifulceramicbottle(picturedwiththepicklesinSoy’n’SugarCucumberPickles)thatcameinawoodenbox(lookforitbehindthecitrusinDesserts)andwewereblownawaybyhowdeliciousitwas.AlittlepokingaroundtaughtusthattheShaoxingwinethatwe’dbeenbuyingfromthecondimentaisleisdenaturedwithsalt(sothatpeoplewon’tdrinkit,Thunderbird-style,onthecorner)andthatthereal-dealstuffisnotonlybetter,butgoodenoughtosiponattheendoftheday.Sowe’dliketosaythis:Ifyou’remakingaSpanishmealandfindyourselfshortonthefinosherry,feelfreetosubstitutepremiumShaoxingwineforit.Fancywinejibber-jabberaside,a$4bottleofsaltyShaoxingwillgetthejobdone.

14.HondashiHondashiisinstantdashipowder,andlooksandsmellsalotlikefishsauce.Whileitisnothardatalltomakedashi,therearesometimeswhenhondashisavestheday,andsomerecipeswhereusingitcutsoutanextracouplestepsandsomemesswithoutcompromisingquality.It’scheapandkeepsforever.

15.DriedshiitakesAredriedshiitakes.Theyarecalledforsparinglyinthisbook,butanytimeyou’remakingabrothorstock,youcanaddoneanditwilllenditdepthandumami.Theykeepforever,sothere’snoreasonnottohavethemonhand.

16.Lapcheong(akaChinesesausage)WhenwecallforChinesesausagewearecallingforthebasicporkvariety,thoughyoucansubstituteothersasyoulike.Thekindmade“withwine,”assomeofthepackagessay,hasanice,buzzy,old-man-with-baijiu-breathflavorthatIlike,andthevarietiesmadewithaproportionofliveraresometimestoofunkyforme.ThemainthingtoknowaboutChinesesausageisthat,likeMartin’sPotatoRollsorgoodjam,itshouldbeinyourhouseatall

times.

1.WhitepepperWhitepepperisthesamething—plant,berry,etc.—asblackpepper,justprocessedinadifferentmanner.Theflavorisdifferent—lesspungent,spicy,aromatic—andmoredustyandmysterious.

2.SichuanpeppercornsSichuanpeppercornsarenotspicy;theyarenumbing.Essential.

3.KombuKombuisdriedkelp,whichgrowsingreatforestsoffofallthemostbeautifulandruggedcoastlinesintheworld.Anykombuworksinthekitchen;thebestisfromHokkaidoinnorthernJapan.Simmerorsteep(butdon’tboil)itinabrothtoaddinstantumami.

4.Katsuobushi(bonitoflakes)Soyoutakeabonitofish,youfilletit,youcookthefilletsinacrazyumami-richliquid,yousmokethem,thenyouletthemhanganddryuntilthey’reashardaswood.Shavetheresults,andyou’vegotbonitoflakes,anessentialJapanesepantryitemandkombu’spartnerinmakingdashi,thefundamentalJapanesestock.

5.Chinkiangvinegar

Chinkiangvinegarissharpanddeepandalittlesweet;it’sthestuffthatshowsupinthesauceralongsidesoupdumplings(xiaolongbao).It’salsocalledblackvinegar,butreadthelabeltomakesureitsaysChinkiangtoknowyou’regettingtherightthing(andnottheWorcestershiresauce–likeproductalsosoldasblackvinegar).Itshouldbemadewithglutinousrice,wheat,salt,sugar,andthenwhatevermagicalchemicalstheparticularmanufactureruses.

6.ChilioilChilioilhasthemalaflavorsofSichuancuisine—spicychiliheatandnumbingpeppercornpower—infusedintoadangerouslyinnocuous-lookingoil.Tasteasyougowiththisstuff,aspotencyvariesfrombrandtobrand.

7.Spicychilicrisp

Doyouneedthis?Notquite.Doyouwantthis?Mostdefinitely.Crispfriedchiliesembeddedinoiladdapunishingwallopofheattoanything,andthedour-lookingladyonthejarisasignifiertootherfoodnerdsthatyou’vecrossedthesrirachariverintothelandoffreaky-deakyhotsaucesthatwillneverbetrendy.

8.NoriDriedseaweed,usuallysoldinsheets.FortheOnigiriandmostJapanesedishes,youwantunseasonednori.ForKoreandishesandfeedingtoyourkidsasasnack,youwantKoreanseasonednori.Unseasonednoribenefitsfrombeingwavedoveranopenflametowakeitupalittlebitbeforeitiseaten.

9.GochujangandgochugaruSothegochuisKoreanforchilies,garuisflakes,andjangispaste.TheflavorsofKoreandriedchiliesaredistinctive,andgochujanghaskindofaspicy,seasonedmisopaste–typethinggoingon.IfyoulikeKoreanfoodorplantomakeanyofit,theseareessentials.

10.Five-spicepowder

Cinnamonandstaranisearetheflavorsthatrideoutfrontofmostfive-spiceblends,clovesandfennelseedtrailingbehind,andpeppercorns(sometimesSichuan)intherear,neverreallydetectable.

11.ShrimpchipsGet’em,love’em,neverleave’em.YouwillseehandsomeboxesofshrimpchipsinAsiansupermarkets,andbetemptedtobuythembecauseoftheirhandsomepackaging.Donotdothis.Buythealreadyfriedchips,twobagsatatime,soyoucaneatonewhilewalkinghomefromthestore.(Okay,okay,it’snothardatalltofryuptheboxedchips;allyouneedishotoil.Butbaggedchipsareinarguablyeasierandjustasgood.)

12.Currypaste

Currypowderisaby-productofBritishcolonialismthathasnorealbasisinIndiancuisine.CannedorjarredSoutheastAsiancurrypastesareentirelydifferent;theyarefoodtechnologydoingagoodthing,byputtingdeliciousnesswithinshelf-stablereach.It’sworthhavingajarorcanofredandgreenvarietiesofthisstuffinthecupboardatalltimesbecauseit’spackedwithflavorandeasytouse.

1.DriedbabyshrimpDriedshrimpcanbeboughtinlittlepackagesfromAsiansupermarketsorloose,byweight,inthekindsofChinatownstoresthatselldriedthingsandginseng.Wecallforthemtwiceinthisbook,asaflavoringforthedippingsauceinHiyashiSomenandpoundedintothedressingoftheGreenPapayaSalad.

2.Takuan

Agiantyellowdaikonradishpicklethat’sapopularkimbapingredient,andacommoncompaniontoallmannerofJapaneseandKoreanmeals.It’ssweet,slightlysour,andstrangelyaddictive.WeusetakuaninSpicyMushroomRagu,thoughyoucouldswapincannedSichuanpickledradishforitthereifyoucanfindtheChineseone.

3.Driedlotusleaves

Likecornhusks,theseareinedibleandlendadistinctiveandinimitablearomatofoodswrappedandsteamedinthem.They’realsogigantic,hardtostore,andhardtofind,soweunderstandifyoumakethelapmeifan

(StickyRiceWrappedinLotusLeaves)withoutthem.

4.Driedredchilies

YoucanusewhatIcall“pizzaflakes”for100percentofthedriedspicyneedsinthisbookandeverythingwillcomeoutdelicious.Butthin-skinnedChinesedriedchiliesdohavetheirowncharmsandareworthkeepingaquartofaround,forspicingupyourKungPaoShrimporyourBraisedChickenWings.

5.Driedwoodearmushrooms

Meaty,umami-richdriedmushroomsthat,ifthepicturesontheboxIboughttheminareright,growonthesidesoftreesinsomeunspoiledmistymountaincornerofChina.Theyareoflimiteduse,sure,butit’salowcostandbigreturnoninvestment.UsethemandyourHotandSourSoupachievesgreatness.

6.MaltoseMaltoseisakindofsugar.Youneedtowarmituptoworkwithit,andit’sstickylikesupergluethewholetime.Butitaddsafunky,toastysweetnessthathasafamiliarChinatownflavortoit,andithastheabilitytobrownfoodstoacomicbookcolor,liketheLacqueredRoastChicken.Notessentialandsomewhatofapainintheasstohandle,butrecommendedfortheintrepid.Honeyisareasonablesubstitution.

7.FurikakeFurikakeisaJapanesecondimentthatisablendofdriedseaweedanddifferentseasonings—sesameseeds,dehydratedfish,puffedrice,theskyseemstobethelimit.Werecommendkeepingajarinthehouseatalltimesbecauserice+arunnyegg+furikake=deliciousdinner.Theequationworksevenwithoutanegg.

8.Shichimitogarashi

AJapanesehotpepper–blackpeppermix.Moreforseasoningfinished

dishesthanusingincooking;delicious.

9.Umeboshi

IntenselyflavoredpickledtinyplumsfromJapan.Alittlebitgoesalongway.

10.Preservedblackbeans

Realtalk:Preservedblackbeansstinklikeadeadanimalleftoutonhotasphalt.Anothertruth:Theyaddanincrediblydeliciousumaminotewhenaddedineventinyamountstoadish.Keeptheminatightlysealedcontainerinacabinetyoudon’topenthatoften,butkeepthem.AndexploretheirsavorywonderfulnessinrecipesliketheBlackBeanSauceforasteamedwholefish.Rinsebeforeusing.

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Soy’n’SugarCucumberPicklesMakes1pint

12oz PersianorJapanesecucumber,cutinto¼″rounds⅓C soysauce3T brownsugar3T ricevinegar¼t fennelseeds

Combinetheingredientsinasmallsaucepan.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheatandcookfor1minute,stirringacoupleoftimesto

makesurethecucumbersarecoated.

Transferthecucumbersandpicklingliquidtoapintjar.Thecucumbersshouldbecompletelysubmerged.Letcool,thencoverandchillforat

least12hours.Pickleswillkeep,coveredandrefrigerated,forupto2weeks.

WepickedthesesweetandsavorypicklesoutofChrisYing’smom’smeatloafrecipe.They’retheChineseanswertobread’n’butterpickles,andgreatasasidedish,withdrinks,oranyplaceyou’dstickalittlebrownpickle,likeLamburgers.

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ChineasyCucumberSaladMakesabout2servings,easilymultiplied

1T Chinkiangvinegar1t Sichuanchilioil1t sesameoil1t turbinadosugar¼t koshersalt3 PersianorKirbycucumbersor1Englishcucumber1t toastedsesameseeds2T crushedroastedunsaltedpeanuts2T cilantroleaves

Whisktogetherthevinegar,chilioil,sesameoil,sugar,andsaltinamediumbowluntilthesugardissolves.Setthedressingaside.

Halvethecucumberslengthwise.(IfusingEnglishcucumbers,removetheseedswithasmallspoonanddiscard.)Setthemcut-sidedownona

cuttingboardandlightlysmashthem:Givethemacoupleangrythwapswiththesideofacleaver(oralargechef’sknife)untilthecucumberscrackinafewplaces.(Forlessdrama,justpressdownonthemwiththesideoftheknife.)Cuttheabusedcucumberscrosswiseinto¾-inch-thickhalf-moons.

Tossthecucumbersinthedressing,portionthemoutontoplates,andtopeachservingwithsesameseeds,peanuts,andcilantro.

Cucumbersarebestinthesummer,buthothousespecimensareinthesupermarketandinmostofourrefrigeratorsyear-round.Thisisatreatmentthatwillperkupeventhemostchemicallyenhancedwintertimecuke.

ThissaladtakescuesfromXi’ancooking(specificallythekindchanneledatrestaurantslikeXi’anFamousFoodsandMissionChineseFood),pinningdownthecoolingflavorofcucumberunderasavory-sourblastofblackvinegarandastingofchiliheat.Donotskipthepeanuts;liketheruginTheBigLebowski,theyreallytietheroomtogether.Andfeelfreetoampupthecilantroifyou’resoinclined.

SilkenTofuSnackMakes1or2servings

8oz blocksilkentofu½ avocado2T soysauce1t limejuice½t oliveoil1T furikake

Cutthetofuinto½-inch-thickslicesandarrangethemonaplate.Scooptheavocadooutoftheskinandthinlyslice.Shingletheavocadoacrossthetopofthetofu.Drizzlewiththesoysauce,limejuice,andoliveoil,thensprinklewiththefurikake.Eatimmediately.

Theimagewehavecreatedhere,ofchampagneandgoldenchopsticks,standsindirectcontrasttothegenesisofthisdish:ChrisYing,illustriouseditorinchiefofLuckyPeach,arriveshomefromalate-nightsoccerscrimmage.Heissweatyandstarving,andwhilehistruestselfwantstoassembleaself-hateburritofromtheleftoversinthecornersofhisfridge,thehigh-achieverinsidetellshim,Buildonthehealthythingyoujustdid.Hemixestofuwithavocado,heseasonsitwitheverythinginsight,heeatsitleaningoverthesink.Heissated,atleastforthemoment.

Ifyouwannagiveyourselfthechampagne-roomtreatment,seekoutshiroshoyu,afancyandhard-to-find“white”soysaucefromJapanthatisYing’spreferredcondimenthere.

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OshitashiMakes4servings

8oz greens(suchasspinach,Swisschard,kale,ormustardgreens),stemmedandcutinto2″pieces

+ koshersalt½t hondashidissolvedin½Chotwater(or½CDashi)½t mirin1½t soysauce2t toastedsesameseeds,forgarnish

Blanchthegreensinalargepotofboiling,lightlysaltedwateruntilwilted,about1minute.Drainandsetasideinastrainerorcolander.

Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezethegreensdry.

Meanwhile,whisktogetherthehondashi,mirin,andsoysauceinalargebowl.

Foldinthegreens.Coverandchillforatleast1hourandupto24hours.

Reservingthemarinade,usecleanhandstosqueezethemarinadeoutofthegreens—theydon’tneedtobedry,buttheyshouldn’tbedrippy-

weteither.Pilethegreensinlittlebowls,drizzlewithasmallspoonfulofthereservedmarinade,andsprinklewiththesesameseeds.Servechilled.

Leafygreens(traditionallyspinachbutfeelfreetocutloosewithwhatevergreensyoulike)aregivenasubtlysmoky,umamiunderpinningfromasoakindashiandsoy.Oshitashiisservedcoldandrefreshinginlittlepiles,suitableforsharedgrazingorindividualhoarding.

Itisagreatmake-aheadwaytoaddgreenstoamealwithoutabunchofàlaminutework.

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SeaweedSaladMakes4servings

1oz driedwakame2T ricevinegar1T sesameoil1T sugar1T soysauce1t gratedfreshginger2T toastedsesameseeds2T mincedscallion1 smalldriedredchili,crumbled,or½tchiliflakes(optional)

Rehydratethewakamebysoakingitinabowlfulofcoldwaterfor5minutes,oruntiltender.Draintheseaweedandpatdrywithpaper

towels.Sliceanylargepiecesinto¼-inchstrips.

Whisktogetherthevinegar,sesameoil,sugar,soysauce,andgingerinamediumbowl.Addtheseaweed,sesameseeds,scallion,andchili(if

using),andtosstocoat.Refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.

Perhapsyouareamongtheenlightenedsophisticateswhoalreadycountkelpasadietarystaple.Ifso,youknowthisdish.Ifyou’renotalreadyaseaweeder,atsomepointinthenotterriblydistantfuture,whenwe’veburntholesintheskyandthere’snosnowleftonthemountaintops,thoseofuswhodidn’tgetrichinthefast-casualrestaurantbusinessbeforethecollapsewillbegettingourproteinfrombugsorseaweed.I’dratherbeinthelattercamp,andthisisonewaytomakeseaweedtastegood.

Apocalypticramblingsaside,thisisasolidsidedishtoallmannerofJapanese,Korean,and/ormisguidedlyhealthyhome-cookedmealsyoumightmake.SeeyouinBartertown.

make.SeeyouinBartertown.

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SoySauceKimchiMakes1quart

1lb napacabbage,cutinto1"pieces½ Asianpearor1mediumapple(about6oz),grated½C choppedscallions1½T juliennedfreshginger1 garlicclove,grated1½t gochugaruorotherchiliflakes1T sugar+ pinchofkoshersalt½C soysauce½C water

Tosstogetherthecabbage,Asianpear,scallions,ginger,garlic,andchiliflakesinalargebowl.Sprinklethesugarandsaltoverthemixtureand

massageit.Youwantthecabbagetowiltunderyourlovingtouchuntilitoccupiesabouthalfthevolumeitdidwhenyoustarted.Addthesoysauceandwater.

Transferthekimchiandallofitsliquidtoagallonzip-topbag,pressingtoremoveallair.Chillforatleast1hourfortheflavorstomeldand

develop.Kimchicanbeprepared3daysinadvanceandrefrigerateduntilreadytoserve.

Youknowhowit’sreally,like,cooltofermentthingsthesedays?Andhowyouwanttobecooltoo,butyoudon’tactuallyeverdoenoughplanninginadvancetofermentthingsforwhenyouneedthem,orifyoudogetittogetheryouendupleavingmostofthejarof[inserthipfermentedproduct]inthebackofthefridgeuntiltheverysightofitfillsyouwith

shameandyoubegintodreaditlikeanenvelopeofwhitepowderinthePentagonmailroom?

Wellthen,soysaucekimchiisthesolutionforyou!It’sbasicallyamake-aheadsaladwithkimchiflavors,notthedeeplyfermentedfunkthatscarsKorean-Americanchildren’smemoriesofopeningtheirlunchboxesingradeschool.Akimchilikethisistraditionallyservedasasaladorsidedish,thoughyoucouldalsogiveitthenouveauKoreantreatmentandstickitinaquesadillaorontopofahotdog.

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SummerRollsMakes12rolls

3oz beanthread/cellophane/ricevermicellinoodles1C shreddednapacabbage½C shreddedcarrot½C peeled,seeded,andshredded(orjulienned)cucumber¼C pickedmintleaves¼C pickedandtornbasilleaves¼C pickedcilantrosprigs¼C choppedscallions+ koshersalt1–2t ricevinegar12 ricepaperwrappers(8½")18 cookedmediumshrimp,peeledandhalvedlengthwise+ hoisinsauceandNuocCham,forserving

Soakthenoodlesinhotwatertocoverinaheatproofbowluntilthey’resoftened,about15minutes.Drainandtransfertoamediumbowl.

Addthecabbage,carrot,cucumber,mint,basil,cilantro,andscallionstothenoodlesandtosstogether.Seasonlightlywithsaltandthe

vinegar.Setthenoodlesaladaside.

Fillalargebowlorpieplatewithwarmwater.Slidearicepaperwrapperintothewaterandpresswithyourfingertipstosubmergeit.

Liftthewrapperoutwithbothhands,flipit,andplaceitbackintothewater.Continueflippingandsoakinguntilthewrapperissoftandpliable,about30seconds,thenlayitflatonakitchentowelorseverallayersofpapertowels.

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5

Workingwithoneatatime,layaricepaperwrapperonyourworksurface.Arrange3shrimphalvesinarownearoneedgeofthe

wrapper.Topwithabout⅓cup(athree-fingerpinch)ofthenoodlesalad,thenrollthenearestedgeofthewrapperoverthefilling.Foldinthesidesofthewrapperandcontinuetorolluptoseal.Transfer,shrimp-sideup,toaplatter.Repeatwiththeremainingwrappers,shrimp,andnoodlesaladuntilyouhave12rolls.Chill,drapedwithadamppapertowel,forupto1hour.

Halvetherollscrosswiseatanangle;servewithnuocchamandhoisinsaucesfordipping.

Ninetypercentoftheworkrequiredtomakethesesummerrollsisintheshopping;theremainderisinfeigningexhaustionathavingproducedsuchspectacularsnacksforyourfriends.Inbetween,allyouneedtodoistossvegetables,herbs,andnoodlesinalightseasoning,thenrollthatsaladupwithsomeslicedshrimpintocutelittlerice-paperburritos!

GadoGadoDipMakesabout1cup(enoughfor4servings)

1 freshredchili,suchasHollandorFresno,or¼–½tchiliflakes1 garlicclove½C peanutbutter3T limejuice3T brownsugar2T fishsauce1T soysauce¼C hotwater+ koshersalt

Combinethechili,garlic,peanutbutter,limejuice,sugar,fishsauce,andsoysauceinablenderandprocessuntilsmooth.Withtheblenderrunning,drizzleinthehotwaterandprocessuntilcreamy.Itshouldhaveahoney-likeconsistency.Ifitdoesn’t,addmorewaterbythetablespoon.Seasontotastewithsalt.Thedipwillkeep,coveredandrefrigerated,for3days.

Whatisauthenticity?Whoknows!Butadipiseasytorecognize.Thisoneisacompulsivelyeatablewaytomakeadinneroutofvegetablesandacompellingargumentforthecompatibilityofpeanutbutterandbroccoli.

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ScallionSaladMakes4side-dishorgarnishservings

1 bunchscallions(about½lb)1T ricevinegar1T sugar2t sesameoil1t gochugaruorotherchiliflakes

Setupabowloficeandwater.Cutthescallionscrosswiseinto3-inchpieces,thenslicelengthwiseintothinmatchsticks.Placeinthebowlof

icewaterandsoakforatleast20minutes—thescallionswillcurl,crisp,andmellow.(Ifnotservingimmediately,refrigerateuntilreadytouse,upto12hours.)

Whenreadytoserve,whisktogetherthevinegar,sugar,sesameoil,andchiliflakesuntilthesugardissolves.

Drainthescallionsandpatdrywithpapertowels.Tosswiththedressingandserve.

Scallionsaladisoneofthethousandthingsyoumightseeservedasbanchan,thatprocessionoflittledishesthataccompaniesKoreanmeals.It’sgreatwithallgrilledmeatsandfishes,andwouldbeagoodride-alongtoanyoftheKoreandishesinthisbook.Butyoucouldjustaseasilydecideyouwanttoputitonhotdogsorhamburgers—who’sstoppingyou,right?

Onehelpfulnoteifyoudon’twanttogetcarpaltunnelsyndromewhilefinelyjulienningallthosescallions:KoreanandJapanesemarketssellsomethingcalledascallion-cutter,asharplittlerazorrakethatmakesslicingupthescallionswaaaaaylessofachore.AndbiggerKoreangrocerystoreswillsellbagsofalready-slicedscallionsthatyoucanbringhome,freshenupinsomeicewater,anddresstotaste.

insomeicewater,anddresstotaste.

SoySauceEggsMakes6eggs

3T soysauce2T ricevinegar1T brownsugar1T water¼t chiliflakes(optional)1 pointstaranise(optional)¼t blackpeppercorns(optional)6 largehard-boiledeggs,peeled

Combinethesoysauce,vinegar,sugar,water,andspices(ifusing)inasmallsaucepan.Bringthesaucetoasimmerovermediumheat.Addasmanyoftheeggsaswillfitwithsomeroomtorollaround.Gentlyswirlthepan,rollingtheeggsinthesauce.Continuerollingarounduntiltheeggsaretanandinfusedwiththesoy,about5minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,removetheeggsandtransfertoaplatetocool.Repeatwithanyremainingeggs.Lettheeggscool,thenrefrigerateforupto2days(afterwhichthey’llbesafebutgettingtoosalty).

Makedeviledeggswiththem!Topyourramenwiththem!Eatthemstraightoutofthefridgeorinthedriver’sseatofyourbigrigonanovernightlonghaul!Honk!

SpicyColdCeleryMakes4servings

1T soysauce1T sesameoil1T ricevinegar1t sugar1t spicychilicrisporchilioil(or1tsambaloelekplusafewcrushed

Sichuanpeppercorns)4 largecelerystalks,slicedthinlyonanangle(about2½C)

Stirtogetherthesoysauce,sesameoil,vinegar,sugar,andchilicrispinamediumbowluntilthesugardissolves.Addtheceleryandfoldtocoatitinthedressing.Letstand5minutesandtheneat.Thecelerywillkeepinthefridge,gettingspicierallthewhile,forabout3days.

Ilovethisrecipe,firstlybecauseitgivesmesomethingtodowithcelery,whichisalwaysavailableandalmostalwayslanguishinginthecrisperofmyrefrigerator.Secondly,becauseit’sagreatplacetouseajarredsaucecalled“spicychilicrisp,”whichyou,likeme,maybetemptedtobuywhenyou’rewanderingthehotsauceaisleofyourChinesesupermarket.Thesauceisirresistibleonaccountofitsdragon’s-breathheat,thepleasingwaythetextureofthecrispfriedchiliesmakesallfoodsmoreexcitingtoeat,andbecauseofthereproachfullookofthewomanonthelabel.(Don’tworryaboutthatsourpussgettinganunfairshakeinlife:HernameisTaoHuabiandshecreatedthesauceandthecompany,LaoGanMa,thatsellsit.Hernetworthisinthehundredsofmillions!)Seekitoutifyoulikehotoptionsinthefridge,oruseoneoftherecommendedsubstitutesabove.

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DashimakiTamagoMakes1omelet(1or2servings)

3 largeeggs½t sugar½t hondashidissolvedin½Chotwater(oruseDashi)+ vegetableoilspray+ grateddaikon,forserving+ soysauce,forserving

Whisktogethertheeggs,sugar,and6tablespoonsofthehondashiliquidinameasuringcupwithaspout.Therewillbeabout1cup.

Heatan8-to10-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-lowheatandspraywithoil.Pourinjustenougheggmixturetocoatthebottomofthepan,

about¼cup.Whentheeggisstartingtoset,useasiliconespatulaorapairofchopstickstofolditoveronitself,startingatthesideawayfromthehandlewithafoldofabout½inch.Continuefolding/rollingtheomeletuntilyoureachthehandle.Pushtheomeletbacktothefarsideoftheskillet,awayfromthehandle.

Pourmoreeggmixturein,againjustenoughtocoverthebottom.Liftthealreadyrolledomelettoallowsomeoftheuncookedeggmixtureto

rununderneath.Repeattherollingprocedure,beginningwiththefarend,soyou’rerollingthesecondomeletaroundthefirst.Keeptheheatlowenoughsothattheeggisnotbecomingdryandbrown,butratherstayingtenderandlightlygolden.Repeatthisstepuntilyou’veusedupalloftheeggmixture.

4

Youcanservetheomeletrightawayatthispoint,butacommon(andeasy)refinement/waytoshapetheomeletistosettheomeletona

clean,drykitchentowel(orasushimatifyoulivethatlifestyle)androllitintoarectangulartube,pressinggentlytoshapetheomelet.Letstandseveralminutesbeforeunwrappingandslicingcrosswiseinto1-inchpieces.Servewithgrateddaikonandsoysaucefordrizzling.

DashiisafundamentalingredientinJapanesecooking.Hereitmakeseggslighterandbetter.Ialwaysthoughtmakingthiskindofomeletwassomenext-levelninjathinguntilwestartedworkonthisbook.NowIknowitcanbemadein10minutesflat,andtheworstthingthatwillhappenisthatitwon’tbeasprettyastheoneinthepicture.Withasaladorvegetableandabowlofrice,it’sdinner!

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GreenPapayaSaladMakes2to4servings

1T driedbabyshrimp1 garlicclove,minced¼C palmorbrownsugar2t sambaloelek1C pieces(2")greenbeans¼C limejuice¼C fishsauce1C cherrytomatoes,halved4C shreddedgreenpapaya(from½mediumgreenpapayaweighing

about2½lb)¼C roastedunsaltedpeanuts

Combinetheshrimp,garlic,sugar,andsambalinalargemortarandpoundintoapastewiththepestle.Addthebeansandpoundgentlyto

bruisethem.Addthelimejuice,fishsauce,andtomatoesandstirwithaspoon,lightlycrushingthetomatoestoreleasetheirjuices.

Scoopthevegetablemixtureintoalargebowl.Addthepapayaandpeanutsandtosstocombine.

Wetriedtoskimpashardaswecouldonthespecialtyequipmentneededtomaketherecipesinthisbook,butclassicPepsi-vs.-Coke-styleblindtastetestsprovedthatthemortarmakesthemagicwhenitcomestothisclassicThaisalad.Youcoulduseafoodprocessor,butthere’sjustsomethingaboutthenot-quite-uniformityofpoundingwithapestle(ratherthanhackingwithblades)thatimprovestheseasoningpaste.Plusyoucan’treallybruisegreenbeanswithafoodprocessor.

Ifyou’reshoppinginaThaimarket,you’llprobablyseepapayashredders

Ifyou’reshoppinginaThaimarket,you’llprobablyseepapayashreddersforsaleandthinkthey’regoodforthis.Afternumeroustests,ourconclusionisthis:Theyareokay.ThecheapandcheerfulJapaneseandChinesemandolineyoumayalreadyhaveinyourkitchengadgetdrawerislessauthenticandmoreeffective.Usethattoshredthefruit.

TryMaking

Dumplings

WhenthestaffofLuckyPeachconvenedfortheideationsessionthatbirthedthisbook,therewasmuchtosortout:First,howtothankRichardBransonforgivingusfreereignoverhisfullystaffedandprivatelyownedislandforthebetterpartofamonth,and,later,whetherornotdumplingsareeasy.Thephysicalactofmakingthemis,inarguably,easy.Thereisnogreatchallengeinfoldingthemclosed,andevenifyourfirstdumplingisfugly,thefortiethwillberespectablelooking,andbyyourhundredthyou’llbemutteringunderyourbreathinChinese,wonderingwhenthemah-jongggameisgonnagetstarted.Ultimatelywedecided—andthiswasaftertiringoutscoresofMr.Branson’smasseusesanddrinkingmostofhispre-Botrytischampagne—thattheywereworthyofinclusionbecausethereturnontheinvestmentofeffortwashigh.Dumplingsaregoodtoeat,funtoeat,andyou’llusuallymakemorethanyoucaneatinonegoofit—soyou’relayingdownsuppliesforthefuture,foradaywhenyoudon’thavethetimetostuffthem.Oncethemotionwasratified,wewentskinny-dippinginthelagoon,butthat’sastoryforadifferenttime.

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DollarDumplingsMakes8servings

1lb groundpork¼C mincedscallions1T mincedfreshginger1T soysauce1T Shaoxingwine1t cornstarch1t sugar½t sesameoil+ whitepepper40 rounddumplingwrappers+ neutraloil+ DumplingDippingSauce,forserving

Mixtogetherthepork,scallions,ginger,soysauce,wine,cornstarch,sugar,sesameoil,andafewturnsofwhitepepperinabowl.(Ahand,

glovedorotherwise,probablydoesthebestjobofkneadingitalltogether.)

Filleachdumplingwrapperwithascanttablespoonoffilling.Moistentheedgesofthewrapperwithwaterandpleatthemshut,followingthe

drawingsbelow.Youcancookthedumplingsrightawayorarrangetheminasinglelayeronabakingsheet(keepingeverythingdustedwithextracornstarchtopreventsticking),wrapwellinplastic,andrefrigerateforadayortwo.Ordothethingwiththebakingsheet/cornstarch/plasticwrapandFREEZEthedumplings,thentransferthem,oncefrozen,tozip-topbagsforeasierstorageandaccess.

Cookthedumplingsinoneoftwoways:

Pan-fried:A12-inchcastironskilletistheidealvesselforthis;anysimilarlybrawnylargeskilletwilldo.Addenoughneutraloiltogenerouslycoatthebottomofthepan,thenalittlebitmore.Placethepanovermediumheatandaddthedumplingstothepan,arrangingthempleats-upinaneatlynestledlayerthatcoverstheentiretyofthepan.(Youwillneedtocooktwoorthreebatchesofdumplingsfromarecipethissize.)

Oncetheoilisgoodandsizzling,count30secondsoff,thenpour¼cup-ishofwaterintotheskilletandcoverwithalid.Thatwaterwillturnintosteam,whichiswhatisreallycookingyourdumplings.After3minutes,removethelidandpokeadumpling:Thefillingshouldbefirmlikeameatballandthewrappertenderlikeproperlycookedpasta.Ifthepansdriesoutbeforethedumplingsarecooked,addanotherlittlesplashofwaterandcoveragain.Whentheyarecooked,uncoverandletthewaterboiloffandthedumplingsthoroughlycrispandbrownonthebottoms.Theywillreleasefromthepanwhentheyaredone.TransfertoaservingtrayorStyrofoamclamshellsforto-goorders.Repeatfortheremainingdumplings.

Boiled:Putalargepotofwaterontoboil.Boilthedumplingsinbatchesthatdon’tcrowdthepot—10to12maximumatatime.Theyshouldbereadyin3to4minutes,whenthefillingisfirmtothetouch.Removewithaslottedspoonorspidertoaservingplatter.

DollarDumplingsII:Replaceallthearomaticsinthisrecipe(thescallionsthroughthewhitepepper)with3tablespoonsofeitheroftheginger-scallionsauces.

DollarDumplingsIII:Cabbage-ifyyourdumplingsforextrajuiciness:Add1cup(8ounces)saltedandsqueezedcabbage(seestep1ofVegetableDumplings)totheporkfilling.

DumplingDippingSauce

Makes⅓cup

3T soysauce1T ricevinegar1t sugar2T water+ coupledropsofsesameoil

Stirtogethertheingredientsinasmallbowl.Servewithdumplings.

Saucelessdumplingsarelikethecrying-on-the-insidekindofclowns:Theylookthepartbutsomethingimportantismissing.

Oneofthemostimportantthingstokeepinmindwhenyou’restuffingdumplingsisthatmoreisnotalwaysmore:Tryingtostufftoomuchinthewrappersleadstounruly,overlyplump,portlydumplingsthatcomportthemselvespoorly,spittingoutfillingononesideortheotherasyoutrytocrimpthemshut,orburstinginanunseemlyfashioninthepan.Ateaspoonoffillingisample.

Thenthere’sthefoldingofthem:Whatwehaveillustratedabove(andalsoshownintheopeningphotoforDollarDumplings)isapleatedstyle,likeyoufindindollardumplingshopsinChinatownand/orinthefreezercaseatTraderJoe’s.Afterplacingaprimteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofthewrapper,youmoistenfirstyourfingerandthenthewrapper’srimwithwater,thenlightlypinchitshut.Then,workingfromonesidetotheother,youmaketinypleats,likeyouaretheIsseyMiyakeofhotappetizers.SuperchefMartinYanoncenarratedthisactiontous,rhythmicallychanting:PUSH,PLEAT,PUSH,PLEAT.Andwhileitsoundsmorelikeadance-flooranthemthenacookinginstruction,withadumplinginyourhandsitwillmakesense.

Also,lookatthephotoforVegetableDumplings,where,lurkinginbrothinthebackoftheshot,wehaveourshrimpdumplingsfoldinginavery#basicwonton-soupstyle.Toeffectthatlook,placeateaspoonofdumplinginthemiddleofthewrapper,moistenit,folditshut(intoahalf-moon),andthenfoldtheedgesintothemiddle,affixingthemwithwater.Thisisago-tofoldingstylefordumplingsthataregoingtobeservedinsouporbroth,andforwhensquarewrappersareallyoucanfind.

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ShrimpandChiveDumplingsMakes8servings

1lb shelledshrimp,minced1C veryfinelychoppedchives(ifyoucanfindgarlicchives,somuchthe

better)1T mincedfreshginger1 egg,lightlybeaten1T soysauce1T Shaoxingwine½t sesameoil½t whitepepper½t koshersalt40 squarewontonskins+ cornstarch+ DumplingDippingSauce,forserving

Stirtogethertheshrimp,chives,ginger,egg,soysauce,wine,sesameoil,whitepepper,andsaltinalargebowl.

StuffandstorethedumplingsasdirectedinDollarDumplings.

Putalargepotofwaterontoboil.Boilthedumplingsinbatchesthatdon’tcrowdthepot—10to12maximumatatime.Theyshouldbeready

in3to4minutes,whenthefillingisfirmtothetouch.Removewithaslottedspoonorspidertoaservingplatter.Alternatively,welikethesedumplingsinabathofsimplechickenbrothor,ifyou’regettingreallyfancy,asanadditiontotheChickenNoodleSoup.

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VegetableDumplingsMakes8servings

1lb napacabbage(1smallheador½large)1t koshersalt+ neutraloil8oz freshshiitakemushroomcaps,thinlysliced1T mincedfreshginger1T mincedgarlic1T soysauce2t cornstarch40 rounddumplingwrappers+ DumplingDippingSauce,forserving

Cutthecabbagelengthwiseinto3or4longpieces,thenthinlyslicecrosswisetocreatematchstick-sizepieces.Putthecabbageinabowl

andsprinklewith½teaspoonofthesalt.Massagethesaltintothecabbageandletstanduntilitiswiltedandweepingsomejuice,about10minutes.Squeezethecabbagefirmlytoreleaseasmuchliquidaspossible.Thesqueezedcabbageshouldweighabout8ounces,andtherewillbeabout1heapingcupofit.

Heatabout1tablespoonoilinalargeskilletovermedium-lowheat.Addthemushroomsandsprinklewiththeremaining½teaspoonsalt.Cook,

stirringfrequently,untilthemushrooms’liquidisdrawnoutandthenevaporates,about8minutes.

Oncethemushroomsaretenderandthepanisdry,foldinthecabbage.Cookuntilthemixtureisagaindry,butnotcookedtodeath,acouple

ofminutes.Scrapethemixtureintoabowlandletcoolslightly.

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Addtheginger,garlic,soysauce,andcornstarchtothemushroom-cabbagemixtureandstirtocombine.Tasteforseasoning.

Stuff,store,andcookthedumplingsasdirectedinDollarDumplings.

ComTamBreakfastMakes4servings

Sausage1lb groundpork½C mincedshallot3T mincedgarlic3T mincedlemongrass1T sugar1T fishsauce½t freshlygroundblackpepper+ koshersalt+ oil

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Assembly+ steamedbrokenriceorjasminerice+ friedeggs+ NuocCham,fordousing

+ cilantro,mint,andbasil

Makethesausage:Usingyourhands,kneadtogetherthepork,shallot,garlic,lemongrass,sugar,fishsauce,andpepperinalargebowl.Pick

upandslapthemixturebackintothebowlseveraltimesuntilthemeatfeelsslightlytacky,liketheshaggystageofbreaddough.(Thesausagecanalsobebeatenfor30secondsonlowspeedinastandmixeroutfittedwiththepaddleattachment.)Cookatablespoonofthemeatinasmallskilletandtasteforseasoning;addasprinkleofsalttothesausagemixifneeded.Coverandchillforatleast30minutesandupto24hours.

Formthesausageinto2-inchpattieswithoiledhands.Heataslickofoilinaheavyskilletovermediumheatandfrythepatties,flipping

once,untiltheyareswolleninthemiddleandbrowned.Letrestforacoupleofminutesbeforeserving.

Servewithrice,eggs,nuoccham,andherbs.

Comtamisbrokenrice,aningredient,butalsothenameofafamilyofdishesthatcouldgenerallybedescribedas“brokenricewithstuffontopofthem.”Inaparticularlythriftycase,thatstuffmightbejustsomepickledorlightlysaucedvegetables.Oftenthere’spork,andeggsarecommon.Ourcomtamisamash-upofalemongrass-yporksausagethatchefTienHoservedatMomofukuSsämBar+aversionofadishthatDannyBowienservesforVietnamesebreakfastathisMexicanrestaurant,MissionCantina.

Acouplenotes:Don’tletnothavinganyoneelementkeepyoufrommakingthisdish—eventhetitularcomtamcouldbeswappedoutforjasminerice.Infactyoucouldscrapthewholesetupandjustusethissausagelikeit’ssomekindaVietnameseJimmyDeanactioninasausageandegg

it’ssomekindaVietnameseJimmyDeanactioninasausageandeggsandwichandprobablystillbehappy.

St.PaulSandwichMakes2sandwiches

EggFooYung3T neutraloil1C beansprouts½C thinlyslicedscallions2T mincedserranoorgreenbellpepper1t soysauce+ koshersalt+ whitepepper¼C dicedcookedham,chicken,orbeef(optional)2 largeeggs1T cornstarch

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Assembly4 sliceswhitesandwichbread,lightlytoasted2T mayonnaise5–6 iceberglettuceleaves1 tomato,sliced8 dillpicklechips

Maketheeggfooyung:Heat1tablespoonoilinalargeheavyskilletovermediumheat.Addthebeansprouts,scallions,andserranoand

cook,stirring,untilthevegetablesaresizzlingandslightlywilted,about3minutes.Transfertoabowlandletcoolslightly.Seasonthemixturewiththesoysauceandafewpinchesofsaltandwhitepepper.Stirinthemeat(ifusing).

Cracktheeggsintoabowl,thenaddthecornstarchandbeatwithaforktocombine.Pouroverthevegetablemixtureandstiruntil

everythingiscoatedwithegg.

Reheattheskilletovermedium-lowheatandslickwith1tablespoonoil.Scoophalfoftheeggbatterintothepananduseaspatulatocoaxit

intoatight4-inch-widefritter/pancake/patty.Cookuntiltheedgesarebrownandset,thenflip,andcontinuecookinguntilthepattyisslightlypuffedandcookedthrough,about6minutestotal.Transfertoaplatelinedwithpapertowelstodrain.Repeattomake2pancakes.Keepwarm.

Assemblethesandwiches:Spreadthetoastedbreadwithmayonnaiseandtopwithlettuce,tomato,pickles,andaneggfooyungpancake.

Thestoryofthissandwichgoessomethinglikethis:Chineseimmigrantsbuildrailroadsacrossthecontinent.Eggfooyung—whichisnotquiteaChinesedishbuthasbecomethisiconicallyChinesedishtoAmericans—travelswiththemastheysettle.SomebodyinSt.Louis,

Missouri,liberatesaneggfooyungpancakefromthebrownsaucehellitwasdoomedto(EFYtraditionallybeingtheselittleeggpancakesensconcedincornstarchybrownsaucelikesaber-toothedtigersinatarpit)andsticksitinthesortofsandwichsetupmoreoftenreservedforfriedchickencutletsorslicedham.Theresultsareinarguablygood,andsomehowgetattributedtosomeonefromSt.Paul,Minnesota,wherethesandwichisentirelyforeign.

Weirdstory,goodsandwich!

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MisoSoupMakes4servings

¼C redmiso1T hondashidissolvedin4Csimmeringwater(oruseDashi)2 shiitakemushroomcaps,thinlysliced3oz silkentofu,cubed2T choppedscallions

Whiskthemisowith2tablespoonsofthehondashiliquiduntilitdissolves.Pourtheremaininghondashiliquidintoamediumsaucepan

andwarmtoabaresimmerovermediumheat.Stirthedissolvedmisointothedashi.

Addthemushrooms,tofu,andscallionstothebrothandgentlysimmeruntileverythingiswarm,about3minutes.

DashiMakes4cups4C water1or2 sheetskombu1 largehandfulbonitoflakes

Bringthewatertoasimmerinasmallpan,addthekombu,andturntheheatoff.Letsteepfor5to10minutes.(Longerwon’thurt,either.)Removethekombuanddiscard,thenbringbacktoasimmer.Addthebonitoflakes,turntheheatoff,andsteepfor2to3minutes.Strainanduseasneeded.

Aneglectedgymmembership,unpaidtaxes,theparchedhouseplantsonthewindowsills:Life’sobvioussmallfailuressurroundus.Butwhataboutthefailureswemightfailtonotice?TheRumsfeldianunknownunknownsoflivinglifetoitsfullestpotential?Iwouldarguethatnotmakingmisosoupisoneofthosedailymisstepsthatcanbefalleventhemostpresent-mindedandsuccessfulamongus.

Fortunatelythisisaneasyerrortocorrect,easierthanwashboardingyourabsorgreeningyourthumbs.InJapan,misosoupisabeveragealmostasmuchasitisafoodstuff.Itisabreakfastthing,servedwithriceandpickles(and,ifyoustayatareallyfancyhotel,abouttwentyotherdeliciousdishes,fromsimmeredtofutogrilledfish!).It’safunthingtoworkintoyourmorningrotation,especiallyifyou’vegotaricecookerthatcanbeprogrammedtohavefreshricecookedandreadywhenyouwakeup.

NasiLemakMakes4servings

CoconutRice2C jasminerice,rinsedanddrained1½C water1 smallcan(about5oz)coconutmilkor½Cplus2T1 bayleaf+ koshersalt

SambalIkanBilis1T neutraloil½C driedanchovies½C slicedshallotorredonion¼C sambaloelek1T turbinadosugar1–2T limejuice+ koshersalt

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Assembly3 hard-boiledeggs,peeledandquartered2 cucumbers,slicedonanangle+ cocktailpeanuts

Makethecoconutrice:Combinetherice,water,coconutmilk,bayleaf,andapinchofsaltinaricecooker(orheavypot).Cookaccordingto

ricecookerdirections(orsetthepotovermediumheatfor5minutes,thenturntolowandsimmerfor20minutes).Letstand10minutes,thenfluffthericeandkeepwarm.

Meanwhile,makethesambalikanbilis:Heattheoilinamediumskilletovermediumheat.Addtheanchoviesandletthemsizzleintheoil,

foldingthemoveronthemselvesuntiltheyarealittlegoldenandcrisp,about3minutes,reducingtheheatasnecessarysothefishandoildon’tburn.Removethefishwithaslottedspoon.Addtheshallottothepan,returntheheattomedium,andcooktheshallotinthefishoiluntilwiltedandlightlycaramelized,about10minutes.

Returntheanchoviestothepan,holdyourbreath,andstirinthesambal.Theinitialwaftofhotsambalairwillcatchyouoffguardifnot

prepared.Stirinthesugarandlimejuice.Removethemixturefromtheheatandstiruntilthesugarisdissolvedandyouhaveachunky,red,sweet,spicy,andfishysauce.Giveitatasteandaddapinchofsaltifitneedsit.

Assemblethedish:Packasmallbowlwithcoconutriceandinvertontoaplate.Surroundwithquarteredeggs,ascoopofsambalikanbilis,

somecucumberslices,andalittlepileofpeanuts.

ThisMalaysianbreakfaststapleisthepolaroppositeofwhatmostofusbreakourfastwithintheWest.Butwhystartyourdayshovelinginpablum,whenyoucouldbeplayingwiththeRubik’sCubeofflavor

combinationsthatisnasilemak?Sambalburnsalittle;richcoconutricemollifies.Thedishistexturecity—crispcucumbersplayoffbonylittleanchovies,softenedbutstillsharp,asweet-spicysambalthatzapsthezonesofthetonguewiththefinalityoftheFivePointPalmExplodingHeartTechnique.Honestly,it’sgoodfordinnertoo(mostofthetimewhenImakeit,itstartsasdinner,thenoncethere’ssambalikanbilisaround,it’sashortpathtomakingitforbreakfast).

ApamBalikMakes8servings

Pancakes1⅓C all-purposeflour1⅓C riceflour3T cornstarch2t bakingpowder½t bakingsoda¾C superfinesugar½t koshersalt2 largeeggs1t vanillaextract1C water+ meltedbutter

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Filling+ choppedroastedsaltedpeanuts+ brownsugar+ meltedbutter+ creamedcorn(optional)

Makethepancakes:Mixtogethertheflours,cornstarch,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,superfinesugar,andsaltinamediumbowl.Whisk

togethertheeggs,vanilla,andwaterinaseparatebowl.Pourthewetingredientsintothedryingredientsandwhiskuntilsmooth.Coverthebatterandchillforatleast1hourorupto24hours.

Heata6-to8-inchnonstickpanovermedium-lowheat.Brushwithalittlemeltedbutterandpourin¼cupofthebatter,swirlingthepanto

createathincoatingovertheentirebottomand½inchupthesidesofthepan.Asthebattersets,addasprinkleofpeanutsandbrownsugar,adrizzleofmeltedbutter,andafewtablespoonsofcreamedcorn(ifusing).Foldinhalfandserve.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.

ThissweetstreetpancakecomestousfromMalaysiaviaeditorRachelKhong.Apambalikisarice-flourpancakewithcreamedcorn(!)inside.Shesaysthis:“There’savendoratTanJettyinPenangwhospoonscornstraightfromthecanintothebatterasitiscookingandthendeftlyextricatesthewholethingfromthegriddleandfoldsitoverlikealoosetaco,ashapethatmakesitpossibletogetbothcrispyedgeandstickyinteriorinasinglebite.”Withalittletimeandeffort,loosetacosofsweetvegetablescanbeyourstoo!

Muchoftheappealofapambalikdependsonyourfeelingsaboutcreamedcorn:Youlikeit,youwilllikethis.Youdon’t?Youwon’t!

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OkonomiyakiMakes2largepancakes(4to6servings)

2C all-purposeflour2t sugar1t koshersalt1t bakingpowder1C water4 largeeggs1lb choppedgreencabbage(8–10C)¼C slicedscallions+ neutraloil4oz cleanedsmallsquid,slicedintotentaclesandrings+ okonomiyakisauceorbarbecuesauce+ mayonnaise(preferablyKewpie)+ nori,thinlyslicedintoconfetti+ katsuobushi(bonitoflakes)

Whisktogethertheflour,sugar,salt,andbakingpowderinabowl.Addthewaterandwhisktoformathickpancakebatter,thenwhiskinthe

eggsuntilnearlycombinedbutstillalittlestreaky.Addthecabbageandscallionsanduseyourhandstomix—don’toverworkthebatter,justmixenoughtoincorporatecompletely.

Heat1tablespoonoilina10-inchcastironornonstickskilletovermedium-lowheatforacoupleofminutestoensureevenheat.Scoop

halfofthebatterintothepan,coaxingitwithaspatulaintoa1-inch-deeproundthatdoesnotquitetouchtheedgesofthepan.Scatterhalfofthesquidoverthebatterandpressgentlytoembeditinthebatter.

Nowcomesthetrickypart.Afterabout3minutes,whenthebottomof

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thepancakeissetandlightgoldenbrown,usealargespatulatocarefullyflipit.Ifyourconfidenceinflippingdoesnotmatchyourlustforsquid-and-cabbagepancakes,slidethehalf-cookedpancakeontoaplate,theninvertthepanovertheplate,andflipthewholethingover,ploppingthepancakesquid-sidedownintothepan.

Cookthesquidsideforabout5minutes,addingalittleoilaroundthesidesofthecakeifthepanseemsdry.Oncethesquidiscookedand

thepancakeisnicelybrowned,flipitagainsothesquidisfacingup.Cookituntilthebottomisbrownedandthepancakeisalittlepuffyandcookedthrough,2to3minuteslonger.

Slidethepancakeontoaplateandtopwithokonomiyakisauce,mayo,nori,andkatsuobushi.Cutintobitesandservehot.Starteatingthis

withfriendsaroundthestovewhileyoumakethesecondpancake.Okonomiyakiwaitsfornoone.

Okonomiyakiiswhateveryouwantittobe.It’sablankcanvasofapancakethatonecondimentizesthebejesusoutof;anexaggeratedzigzagoftwosquirt-bottlesauces—Kewpiemayonnaise(whichisaneggy-richMSG-bombbrandofJapanesemayonnaisethatcomesinasquishybottle,andwhichyoushouldcertainlyseekoutifyou’veneverhadit),andokonomiyakisauce,atangyconcoctionthat’sarelationofAmerican-stylesteaksauceslikeA1andHeinz57.Bonitoflakesscatteredatopallofthiswillwrigglewithcreepylifelikemotion.(Theheatofthepancakemakesthemflutterabout;it’sagoodparlortrickthatalwayssurprisestheokonomiyakinewbie.)

Squidisacommoningredientinthiswildlyvariabledish—it’scheapandmoreorlessneutralinflavor.Swapoutvegetablesorothermeatsforitatwill.Thecabbageisn’trequisite,butIcan’timagineokonomiyakiwithoutit.

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ScallionPancakesMakes6pancakes(10to12servings)

4C all-purposeflour¼C vegetableshortening+ warmwater+ koshersalt+ sesameoil(about½C)6T mincedscallions+ neutraloil

Combine2cupsoftheflourwiththeshorteninginastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntilthefatisdispersedintoa

dozenorsonickel-sizechunks.Pour1½cupswarmwaterintothebowlandmixuntilastiffdoughforms,about3minutes.Stopthemixerandaddtheremaining2cupsflour,2teaspoonssalt,and⅓cupwater.Kneadonmediumspeedfor3minutes.Thedoughwillbesmoothandsuppleandholdafingerprintindefinitely.Wrapthedoughinplasticandletrest10minutesorrefrigerateforupto2days.

Unwrapthedoughandcutitinto6equalpieces.Rollthepiecesintoballsanddrapewithplasticwrapsotheydon’tdryoutasyouwork.

Lightlyflouryourworksurfaceandusearollingpintorolloneoftheballsoutintoan8-or9-inchround.Brushtheentiresurfaceofthedoughgenerouslywithsesameoilandsprinklewith1tablespoonscallions.Sprinklelightlywithsalt.Nowrollthedoughintoajellyroll–likelogofscallionpancakedough.Formthelogintoatightspiral,creatingaCinnabonofscallionpancakedough.Tentwithplasticwrapandrepeatwiththeremainingdough,sesameoil,scallions,andsaltuntilyouhavemade6Cinnabons.Letthemrestatleast10minutes.(Theycanalsobeindividuallywrappedinplasticandrefrigeratedforupto1dayatthispoint.)

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NowitistimetoflattentheCinnabons,becauseyouarenotmakingCinnabons,youaremakingscallionpancakes.Lightlyflouryourwork

surface.Maketwoorthreepasseswiththerollingpin,gentlyflatteningthediskasyougo,thenturnit90degreesandrepeat.Keepgoinguntilit’sabout8inchesindiameter.

Heat⅛inchneutraloilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Frythepancakes,flippingonce,untilverycrispandbrowned,5to6minutes

total.Cutintowedgesandservehot.

Scallionpancakesareservedhotindimsumrestaurants,andwillbeapopularappetizerinyourhome,dorm,orcommunekitchen.It’snicetoputoutalittleShanghai-ishdippingsauceforthepancakesifyou’resoinclined—a1:1mixtureofsoysauceandChinkiangvinegar,possiblywithsomethreadsoffreshgingerthrownin—thoughIusuallyjustenduppilingitupwithsambaloelek(youcouldusethisSuperSauce,orthestuffthatcomeswiththegoldenlabelfromHuyFongfoods).Thisdough,workedinaslightlydifferentfashion,canalsoprofitablybeusedtoensconceotherfoods,asdemonstratedinthebeefroll.

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BeefRollMakes6rolls

+ ScallionPancakedough+ neutraloil½C hoisinsauce1lb leftoverbraisedbeef,thinlysliced,warmed(seedisclaimerbelow)½C roughlychoppedcilantro½C slicedscallions,whichweleftoutofthephotobutyoucanaddinat

home

Makethescallionpancakedough,butusemeltedlardorbutterinplaceofthesesameoilinstep2.Then,instep3,rollthepancakesout

thinnerandwider:Theyshouldbe10-inchroundsabout⅛inchthick.

Tocookthesethinnerpancakes,rubamedium-hotskilletwithanoilypapertowelandlayin1rolled-outpancake.Cookituntilcrispandlight

goldenonbothsides,4to5minutes.Youwantthepancaketobecookedthrough,butnotasdarkandshatteringlycrispasastandardscallionpancake;itneedstostillbeflexibleenoughtorollupwithoutbreaking.

Smeareachpancakewithsomehoisinandtopwithalayerofbeefandasprinkleofcilantroandscallions.Rollupandslicecrosswiseinto1-

inchbites.

Youwilloftenseethiscalleda“ShandongBeefRoll”onmenus,anappellationthatIdon’tknowtobeexactlyaccurate.ThisparticularrenditioncametousthroughMary-FrancesHeck,whoworkedonalltherecipesforthisbook,fromherfriendBrianTsao,whoisacookinNewYorkandwhowasbornintoaTaiwaneserestaurantfamily(thathasone

restaurantinthestates,MamaChina,inLasVegas).Aboutthispancake,Briansays,“Ishouldalsomentiontheylearnedalot

oftheirrecipesintheTaiwaneseMilitaryVillagesthathousedhundredsofthousandsafterthecommunisttakeoveroftheMainland.TheseMilitaryVillageshousedpeoplefromallregionsoftheMainlandwhowerestillloyaltoChiangKai-shek.”Whichmakesusallsuspectthisdishisoneofthoseserendipitiesoffusionthatresultfromthechaosofreallifeinsteadofonewithaneat,pastoralhistoryandclearlinebacktoaparticularpartoftheworld.

Thewrapisathinlyrolledandlightlybrownedscallionpancake.TheTsaosuselardinplaceofthesesameoilthatisinourscallionpancakerecipe.

MAKESURETOREADTHISBEFOREYOUPLANONHAVINGTHISFORDINNERTONIGHT:InourfantasyworldyouwouldhaveleftovermeatfromtheBeefNoodleSoup.Inlieuofthat,I’dgooutthereandsayit’sworthittobraisethatbeef(it’s2hoursofpassivesimmering),chillit,andeatitthiswaythenextday.Inthespiritofthisbook’smessageofpeaceandeasiness:Wewilladmitthatwegotsomegoodroastbeeffromalocaldelicounterandlikedthattoo.Notthatwe’dtellGrandmaTsaoaboutthat.

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KoreanPumpkinPancakeMakes4to6servings

1lb pumpkin(oranyhardsquash,traditionallykabocha),seededandpeeled

1t koshersalt2T sugar½C flour+ neutraloil

Youneedshreddedpumpkin.Afoodprocessorcanmakeinstantworkofthegourd;aboxgratertoo,withjustalittlemoreelbowgrease.If

you’rearealequipmentminimalist,grabalarge,sharpknifeandcutthepumpkinintomanageablehunks,thensliceeachhunkintothin(⅛-inch)planks.Stack5or6planksandcutintomatchsticks.

Tossthepumpkinshredswiththesaltandsugarandletstanduntilthesquashhasweptseveraltablespoonsofliquid,15to20minutes.Add

theflour,toss,andletstandanother5minutesforeverythingtogel.

Heat1tablespoonoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,scoop2tablespoonspumpkinmix(ormoreifyouwantlarger

pancakes)intothepanandspreadintoa¼-inch-deeplayer.Addasmanypancakesaswillfitcomfortablyinthepan.Fry,flippingeachpancakeonce,untilthepumpkinistenderandtheoutsideisbrownedandcrispy.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.

CallitaKoreanlatke.Kabochasquashisstandardhere,butitcanbemadewithalmostanyrootvegetable.Thisdishissomewherebetweenanappetizerandavegdishtoroundoutameal.It’snotusuallyservedwitha

dippingsauce,butifyouputoutalittlesaucerwitha1:1:1ofsoy–ricevinegar–waterwithafewscallionsslicedupinit,I’dprobablyendupspooningitallovermypancakesbecauseI’mthattypeofperson.

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KimchiPancakeMakes1largepancake,feeds2people

1C kimchi¼C all-purposeflour¼C riceflour½t koshersalt¼C choppedscallions+ neutraloil

Squeezethekimchioverabowltoreleaseasmuchjuiceaspossible.Topupthisliquidwithjuicefromthejartomeasureabout½cup.If

youdon’thaveenoughjuice,addcoldwater.Roughlychopthekimchi.

Whisktogetherthekimchijuice,flours,andsalt.Letstandacoupleminutesuntilslightlythickened.Foldinthekimchiandscallionsand

letstandafewmoreminutesuntilthebatteriscohesive.

Heat1tablespoonoilina10-inchskilletovermedium-highheat.Dumpthebatterintothepananduseaspatulatoquicklyflattenitoutinto

aneven,thinround.Cookuntilthebottomisbrownedandcrispy,3to4minutes.Flipandcook2to3minuteslongerforthebattertoset.Cutintowedgesandservewithdippingsauce(seebelow).

Threethingshere:

1.Makeafewsaucersofdippingsauce:Eachgets1tablespooneachofsoysauce,ricevinegar,andwater,and⅛teaspoon(adotortwo)ofsesameoil.Stirtogether.Scatteringsomesesameseedsorthetiniestbitofmincedchilioverthesaucewon’thurt.

2.Youneedriceflourforthispancake.(SpecificallyAsianriceflourmade

2.Youneedriceflourforthispancake.(SpecificallyAsianriceflourmadefromglutinousrice;don’tgoforthegluten-freehealthfoodstorestuff.)Themixoffloursmakesitlightandcrispandhardtoresist.

3.Onaccountoftheirresistibleness,youmaywanttoplantomakeanextraone,becauseitwillgofast.

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MooShuPancakesMakes12pancakes

2C all-purposeflour¾C boilingwater1T sesameoil+ filling,suchasMooShuVegetables+ hoisinsauce,forserving

Placetheflourinalargebowlandcreateawellinthecenter.Pourtheboilingwaterintothewellandbeginworkingtheflourintothewater

withafork.Onceashaggydoughforms,kneadthedoughwithyourhands(rememberingthatthewaterwasjustboiling,soyoumighthavetowaitacoupleofsecondsuntilthedoughistouchable),incorporatinganyflourthatremainsattheperiphery.Continuekneadingthedoughinthebowlfor1minute,thenturnontoaworksurfaceandkneadforanotherminuteuntilit’ssmoothandtender.

Rollthedoughintoaropeaboutafootlong.Cutinto12equalpiecesandrolleachintoasmoothball.Itisimportantfortheballstobethe

samesize,sotakeyourtimegettingthemevenandperfectlyround.

Workingwith2doughballsatatime,brushonesideofeachwithsesameoil.Pickuponepieceandflipitontotheother,sotheoiled

sidesarepressedtogether.Pressthedoughintoa3-inchpatty,applyingevenpressuretomakesurethetwohalvesexpandatthesamerateandtheiredgesstayeven.Usingarollingpin,coaxthematchedpairintoa6-to7-inchround,aboutthewidthandthicknessofasmalltortilla.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughballsuntilyouhave6pancakes.

Heataseasonedcastironornonstickskilletovermedium-lowheatfor

4acoupleofminutes.Lay1pancakeinthepanandcookuntilthebottomisbrownedandthetopisbeginningtoshowmanysmalloracoupleoflargebubbles,2to3minutes.Flipthepancakeandcookforabout1minute,untilbrowned.Removefromthepanandtearapartthetwohalvestoyield2pancakes.Stackonaplateandcoverwithakitchentowelwhilecookingtheremainingpancakes.Servewithafillingandhoisin.

Pickingupthetechniqueofsmushingtogethertwodoughballs,rollingthemout,fryingthem,thenpullingthemapartforamooshumealisaloneworththepriceofadmission.Ifyou’rethesortofsnob(likeme!)whofeelslikethey’vegraduatedfrommooshumealstomoreobscureand“authentic”dishes,thedeliciousnessofthiswillmakeyoureconsider.Iadvocateforhoisinasthesaucetomarryfillingtopancakehere,whilefullyrecognizingthatplumsauceiswhatwasservedatthemallrestaurantsofmysuburbanteenageyears.

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MooShuVegetablesMakes4servings

2T soysauce1T Shaoxingwine½t sugar½t cornstarch+ neutraloil1T choppedfreshginger1T choppedgarlic1C thinlyslicedgreencabbage½C thinlyslicedredcabbage½C thinlyslicedredbellpepper½C thinlyslicedonion¼C woodearmushrooms,soaked,drained,andthinlysliced¼C driedlilybuds,soakedanddrained(optional)+ MooShuPancakes+ hoisinsauce,forserving

Stirtogetherthesoysauce,wine,sugar,andcornstarchinasmallbowluntilthesugarandcornstarcharedissolved.Keepnearathand.

Heataslickofoilinawokorlargeheavyskilletoverhighheat.Addthegingerandgarlicandstir-fryfor15seconds,untilaromatic.Add

thecabbages,pepper,onion,woodears,andlilies(ifusing)andstir-fryuntileverythingiscrisp-tender,3to4minutes.

Pourthesauceoverthevegetablesandfoldtocoat.Whenthesaucebubblesandthickens,removeitfromtheheat.Servethevegetables

withpancakesandhoisin.

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BeefNoodleSoupMakes4servings

2T neutraloil2lbs bonelessbeefshankmeat,rinsedandcutinto1"pieces4t koshersalt1½T mincedfreshginger1½T mincedgarlic1T doubanjiangorgochujang(spicychili-beanpaste)2T soysauce2 wholestaranise1 cinnamonstick(3")2T Shaoxingwineordrysherry1T brownsugar1T ricevinegar10C water1T hondashi4 babybokchoy,cutinhalflengthwise(oruseleftovergreens)8oz ricenoodles(mediumsize)⅛t sesameoil

HeataDutchovenovermedium-highheat,thencoatwiththeneutraloil.Seasonthebeefwith3teaspoonsofsalt.Addthegingerandgarlic

andstir.After30seconds,addthebeefandtheflavorparty—chili-beanpaste,soysauce,staranise,cinnamon,wine,sugar,andvinegar.Stireverythingforaminuteorsotoamalgamatethemessinthepan,thenaddthewaterandhondashiandstirtohelpitdissolve.

Bringthepotuptoasimmer,thendroptheheattomaintainagentlebubblingsimmer.Skimanyfroththatrisestothesurfaceofthebroth

inthefirst10minutes,addingaladlefulofwaterinplaceofeachladleof

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fatandscumyouremoveanddiscard.Partiallycoverthepotwithalidandsimmergentlyuntilthemeatistender,about2hours.Atthispointthesoupcanbecooled,covered,andrefrigeratedforupto3days.

Whenyou’rereadytoeat,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Blanchthebokchoyuntiljusttender—aminuteorless—thendrainwellwithaspider

anddivideamong4servingbowls.Boilthenoodlesinthesamepotofwateraccordingtopackagedirections.Drainandputtheminthebowls.Seasonthebrothwiththeremaining1teaspoonsaltandthesesameoil,andportionitoutoverthenoodlesandgreens.Eathot.

Afterafewroundsofsimplifyingthissoup,strippingouthoursofcookinganddifferenttechniquesandsteps,Iwasverysurprisedatjusthowgooditturnedout—2hoursofnearlynoworkcanmakeforabowlofsomethingthatiscomplexanddeep.Taiwanesebeefnoodlesoupwasthelodestarforthedish,butwedrewinacoupleofotherinfluences(liketheJapaneseinstantdashi)tomakeitdeliciousandeasy.Notethatthisisalargeamountofbeefforthisamountofsoupandwillyieldsomeleftovers—makingthesoupwithlessmeatmakesthebrothtastemeager.TheseleftoversarewhatMarthaStewartwouldcallagoodthing:Thebeefisgoodcoldandslicedinasandwich,oreatenoverplainricewithaSuperSauce,anditmakesthebeefpancakestratosphericallygood.

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RotisserieChickenRamenMakes4servings

1 rotisseriechicken,wholeorleftover4 scallions1 piece(1")freshginger,thinlysliced1 smallcarrot(optional)1 driedshiitakemushroom3 slicesbacon(about2oz)12C water4 portionsramennoodles(preferablyfresh)8t soysauce2 cookedeggs(optionalbutverynice;seeSoySauceEggs),halved

Ifyou’restartingwithaleftoverrotisseriechickencarcass,scavengeitforgoodmeatybits,andsetthemaside.Ifyouhavepurchaseda

cookedchickenexpresslyforthisrecipe,thencarefullycutawaythebreastmeat,reservethedrumsticks,anduseyourfingerstoshredoffthelegmeat—butjustthebig,fit-for-a-kingpiecesthatcomeawayeasily.Youcanleaveplentyofchickenonthecarcass;thatclingymeatwillmakeforaflavorfulsoup.Pullorslicethemeatintobite-sizepiecesandreserveinthefridgewhileyoumakethebroth.

Breakthechickencarcassintoafewpiecesandputtheminastockpot.Trimtherootsanddarkgreenpartsofthescallionsandaddthemto

thepot;thinlyslicethewhiteandtendergreenpartsandreservethemtogarnishthesoup.Addtheginger,carrot(ifusing),shiitake,andbacon.Addthewaterandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheatfromarollingboiltoarollickingsimmer,andskimanyfroththatcollectsonthesurfaceduringthefirst10minutesofsimmering.

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Cookuntiltheliquidisreducedbyone-third(to8cups),about2hours.Strainthebroth.(Thatshiitakeisprobablyprettydeliciousandtender

atthispointsoyoucansaveandsliceitanduseitasagarnishonthefinisheddish,butscraptherest.)Thebrothcanbeusedimmediatelyorrefrigeratedforupto2days.

Toserve:Bringthebrothtoastrongsimmerandcooktheramennoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainthenoodlesverywell,

andportionthemoutamong4deepsoupbowls.Topwithbroth.Seasoneachbowlwith2teaspoonssoysauce,aportionofthereservedchickenmeat,scallions,halfanegg,andwhateverelseyou’vegot.(Seeideasonthefollowingpages!)Eatimmediately.

DoIreallyhavetocookthisforTWOHOURS??Wedon’twanttomakeyoudoanythingyou’renotcomfortablewith.But

wefoundthat2hoursisthesweetspotforflavorextractionandreduction.Also,youdon’treallydoanythingduringthattimeexceptformaybecookaneggortwo—plentyoftimetowatchanoldEddieMurphymovieorstareendlesslyintotheantisocialabyssthatisyoursmartphone!

BUTBUTBUTwhydoIhavetoskimit?Skimmingthebrothduringthefirst10minuteswillforceyoutopay

attentiontothehardnessofthesimmer,observethewaterlevelinthepot,andgettoknowthebroth.

Also,wefoundthatwithrotisseriechicken(unlikeplainoldrawchicken),thereissomerenderedgreasethatcanemulsifyinamuddyway.Ourearlystabsatthisbrothwentunskimmed;theycameoutmurkyandtastedsortofflat.Thisapproachyieldsacleaner-tastingandclearersoup—andabetterbowloframen.

Youdon’tneedmorethanscallions,anegg,and(inthebestcase)somemeatplunderedfromthecarcasstomakeasolidservingofsoup.

Butmaybeyou’vealreadymadethissamedishathousandtimesandyou’relookingtospicethingsup,ormaybeyou’vegotafridgethickwithoddsandends.Herearesomeotherthingswe’dhappilythrowinthebowl:

Beansprouts:raw,ahandfulforeachbowl

Sesameseeds:1tablespoonperbowl

Vegetables:Theskyismoreorlessthelimitonveggieadditions.Yourtastewilldictatewhatyouwannaplopinyoursoup.Ifyou’readdingsomethingrawattheendasatopping—let’ssaynapacabbagebecauseit’seasytohaveextra—makesuretocutitthinenoughthattheheatofthesoupcancookit,andinashapethatwillmakeitnicetoeatalongwiththenoodles(i.e.,achiffonade).Donotaddleftovervegetablescoldfromthefridge—that’slikeaddinganicecubetoahotcupofcoffee.Heat’emupfirst!

Othermeats:Tryshreddedporkshoulderoranynubbinsoftastyroastedorgrilledmeat.

Menma:Menmaarecuredbambooshootsoftenservedinramen.SomeJapanesemarketscarrythese,andifyoufindashelf-stableversionintendedtobeeatenwithoutanyadditionalpreparation,they’reworthkeepinginthepantry.

Nori:1torn-upsheetperbowl

Togarashi:classicJapanesehotpepperpowdertospikeabowl

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ChickenNoodleSoupMakes4servings

1 wholechicken(3–4lbs)8C water,ormoreasneeded½C slicedcarrot1C slicedonion2 scallions2 slices(¼"thick)freshginger1t koshersalt4 garliccloves1 pointstaranise¼t corianderseeds¼t blackpeppercorns1t Sichuanpeppercorns1 bayleaf2t soysauce¼t freshlygroundblackpepper8oz PennsylvaniaDutcheggnoodles+ garnishes:thinlyslicedscallions,cilantro,chilioil,etc.

Placethechicken,breast-sidedown,inastockpotandcoverwiththewaterby1inch.Setthepotovermedium-highheatandbringtoaboil,

thenreducetoasimmer,skimmingthefroththatcollectsonthesurfaceofthebrothduringthefirst10minutes.Addtheremainingingredientsthroughthebayleaf,andcoverthepot.Simmerfor5minuteslongerandremovefromtheheat.Letthebrothsteep,coveredandunbothered,for45minutes.

Carefullyremovethechickenfromthepottoacarvingboard(acuttingboardwithamoat!)oraplate.Strainthebroth(discardingtherestof

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thesolids).Wipethepotclean,addbackthestrainedbroth,andbringtoasimmer.Bringaseparatepotofsaltedwatertoaboilforthenoodles.

Whenthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,pullthemeatfromthecarcassandshreditintobite-sizepieces(discardtheskinandbones).

Transferthechickentoasmallbowlandseasonthemeatwithsoysauceandpepper.

Cookthenoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainwellandportionoutamong4servingbowls.Topeachwithhotbroth,thenwith

seasonedchickenanddesiredgarnishes.Servehot.

SteepingmeatliketeaisafavoritetechniqueforflavorextractionatLuckyPeachHQ.Hereweuseittomakeapotofflavorfulchickenbrothwithoutdryingoutthemeatofthebird,whichwethenpickandseasonandserveontopofthesoup.We’veoutlinedthemostbasicbowlpossible—weevenusedDutcheggnoodles,whichyoucanfindineventhemostpoorlyprovisioneddoomsdaybunker,thoughyouarewelcometoswapliterallyanyothernoodleintheirplace.SeeourideasfollowingRotisserieChickenRamen)forotherwaystotrickoutthissoup.

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MisoClamChowderMakes4servings

2T unsaltedbutter4 scallions,thinlysliced,whitesandgreensseparated2 garliccloves,minced1 bayleaf1T thymeleaves2C clamjuiceorwater8oz redpotatoes,cutinto½"pieces16 littleneckclams,scrubbed2T redmiso½C heavycream+ seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper+ optionalgarnishes:cilantro,afewdropsoffishsauce,lime,white

pepper,crispbaconlardons

Meltthebutterinamediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Addthescallionwhitesandgarlicandsautéuntilsoftened,about4minutes.

Addthebayleaf,thyme,clamjuice,andpotatoes.Bringtoasimmer,cover,andcookuntilthepotatoesaretender,about20minutes.

Addtheclams,cover,andsimmergentlyuntiltheclamsopen,about5minutes.Removefromtheheat.

Measurethemisointoasmallbowlandaddaladlefulofthehotclambroth.Kneadthemisowiththebackofaspoonuntilitdissolvesinto

thebroth,thenpourtheliquidbackintothepanalongwiththecream.Seasonwithsalttotasteandagenerousamountofblackpepperandstirinthescalliongreens.Divideamong4servingbowlsandgarnishasyouseefit.

Themore“Asian”pointofviewwouldbetosaythataddingclamstodashimakesagreatsoup(itdoes)orthataddingclamstomisosoupmakesagreatsoupbetter(alsotrue).Butsincecross-culturalco-optionisatwo-waystreet,howaboutthis:MisomakesaclassicBostonclamchowderevenbetter.

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DoenjangJigaeMakes4servings

4C water2T hondashi3T doenjangormiso1C pieces(½")bacon(optionalbutrecommended)1C pieces(¾")potato(about1largewaxypotato)1 largeonion,cutinto1″pieces(about1½C)1 mediumzucchini,cutinto½″rounds1 container(14oz)firmtofu,cutinto1pieces5 garliccloves,slicedthin2C buttonmushrooms,quartered1 jalapeño,slicedintorings2 scallions,thinlysliced(about½C)+ cookedshort-ormedium-grainrice,forserving

Combinethewater,hondashi,doenjang,bacon(ifusing),potato,andonioninaheavy2-quartsaucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermedium

heat,thenreducetheheatandcookgentlyuntiltheflavorofbaconisinfusedintothesoupandthepotatoesarehalfwaycooked,about10minutes.

Stirinthezucchini,tofu,garlic,mushrooms,andjalapeño.Simmeruntilthepotatoesandzucchiniarecompletelytender,about15

minutes.Stirinthescallionsandservewithrice.

DoenjangjigaeiselementalKoreancomfortfood,aone-potstewofpurehomecomfort.TonyKimoftheMomofukurestaurantsdescribeditaskindoflikestonesoup—withalittledoenjangormisoandsomekindof

meatorprotein(wecallforbaconhere,butitcouldbeanypork,orevenclams).You’vegotthebase,thenyouaddthevegetablesyoucanscroungetofortifyandrounditout.EveryversionofitI’veeverseenhashadzucchiniinit,regardlessofthesettingitwasservedin,homeorrestaurant,ortheseasonitwascookedin.Thewhybehindthatescapesme.

SlowCookerPhoMakes4servings

1 largeyellowonion,slicedinto½″rounds1 piece(2″)freshginger,halvedlengthwise1t neutraloil2lbs chuckshortribs+ koshersalt2 wholestaranise1 cinnamonstick(3)4 wholecloves8C beefbroth1–2T fishsauce10oz flatricenoodles,fettuccine-size

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Garnishes1C beansprouts½C Thaibasilleaves½C mintleaves½C cilantro,stemsandleaves2 jalapeños,slicedinto¼"rounds+ limewedges+ hoisinsauce,sriracha,orsambal

Heatthebroiler.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

Arrangetheonionslicesandgingeronthebakingsheetpanandbrushwiththeoil.Broiluntilcharredinspots,about10minutes.

Seasontheshortribswithsalt.Arrangetheonionsandginger,shortribs,staranise,cinnamon,cloves,andbeefbrothinalargeslow

cooker.Coverandcookonhighfor4hours,oruntilthemeatisjusttender.Turnofftheslowcookerandletthebrothandmeatrestfor30minutes.Removethemeatfromthebrothandslideoffthebones.Strainthebroth(discardthesolids).Skimanyfatthatrisestothesurfaceofthebroth.(Atthispoint,thebrothandmeatcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.Rewarmbeforeproceeding.)

Returnthebrothtoasimmerandseasonwiththefishsauceandsalt.

Meanwhile,preparethericenoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainwell.

Slicethemeatintobite-sizepieces.Portionoutthenoodlesandmeatamong4largesoupbowls.Ladlethehotbrothintothebowls,warming

thenoodlesandmeat.Servewiththegarnishes.

Iamagainsttheuseofpackagedbroth.Ithinkit’sgross,andIthinkit’seasyenoughtomakeyourownathome—whatIdoisroastoffsomecheapcutfromthebutchershop,throwitinapotwithwater,simmer(orsimmer/steeplikeintheChickenNoodleSoup),strain,andfreezeit.Forthemostpart,wehaveavoidedcallingforpackagedbrothinthisbook.Buttensionbetweenbeliefanddesirearosewhenwewereworkingonthisphorecipe,whichIwantedbecauseNewYorkisaphodesert.(Yes,thereareokaybowlshereandthere,butnothingtocomparewithwhatcanbegotinOklahomaCityorNewOrleans,tosaynothingofthegreaterLosAngelesarea.OrToronto.ButIdigress.)Homemadebeefbrothreallybringsthisbowloverthetop,butitalsoprobablydisqualifiesitfrombeingeasy.Dowhatyouthinkisright.

Ofcourse,co-editorDaveChangprotestedthisrecipeondifferentgrounds:“Whymakepho?Whygothroughthetrouble?Whynotjustdumpashotofamarointhebeefnoodlesoup?”

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HotandSourSoupMakes4servings

½C woodearmushrooms2T neutraloil1T choppedgarlic1T choppedfreshginger½C choppedscallions8oz porkshoulder,cutintofatmatchsticks(1"long,¼"wide)4C chickenbroth8oz softtofu,cutinto½"cubes1t sugar½C ricevinegar3T soysauce1t freshlygroundblackpepper1t sesameoil1T sriracha,ormoretotaste2 largeeggs(optional)

Coverthemushroomswithwarmwaterandsoakuntilplumpandpliable,about30minutes.Drainandsetaside.

Heattheneutraloilinalargeheavysaucepanovermediumheat.Addthegarlic,ginger,scallions,andporkandcook,stirring,untilthe

aromaticssoftenandtheporkwhitens,about4minutes.Pourinthebrothandbringtoasimmer.

Stirinthetofu,sugar,vinegar,soysauce,pepper,sesameoil,andsriracha.Returntoasimmerandadjusttheseasoning.(Someofuslike

asmuchasanadditional⅓cupvinegartoreallyupthesour.)

4 Ifusingtheeggs,beattheminasmallbowlanddrizzleoverthesoupwhilegentlystirring.Whentheeggssetintostrands,dividethesoup

among4bowlsandserve.

Mostofmylife’sadmittedlylimitedexperienceswithhot’n’soursoupwerebeyonddiscouraging:aviscousliquid,stingilysour,unexcitinglyspiced.Assuch,Iwasdeadsetagainstitgoinginthisbook,crotchetyanddisagreeable.

ButinanactofhoundingworthyofSam-I-Am,Iwasargueddown,andprovedwrongwiththisrendition,cribbedfromthepagesofFlour,Too,acookbookbytheeminentBostonianchefJoanneChang.Iateithot,twopintsstraightoutofthepot.Iateitcold,laterthatnight,straightfromthefridge.Ihavenothadtheopportunitytotakeitwithagoat,inaboat,orwhateverelsetheguyinthebookdoes,butlikehim,Iamnowfullydowntoclown.

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MassamanCurryMakes4to6servings

1 stalklemongrass2T neutralorcoconutoil1 smallonion,chopped2T mincedgarlic2T mincedfreshginger¼C redcurrypaste1t groundcoriander½t turmeric3 wholestaranise2 kaffirlimeleaves(optional,butveryniceifyoucanfindthem!)1 cinnamonstick(3")1 can(14oz)coconutmilk2C water1½lbs chickenthighs2t koshersalt1lb YukonGoldpotatoes½C roastedunsaltedpeanuts1T fishsauce1–2T limejuice+ palmorbrownsugar+ cookedrice,forserving

Smashthelemongrasswiththebackofaknifeat½-inchintervals,thenbendthestalkandtieitintoaknot.Thiswillhelpreleasetheflavorin

thelemongrass.

HeattheoilinalargeDutchovenovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlic,andgingerandsweatuntilaromaticandsoftened,about5

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minutes.Addthecurrypaste,coriander,andturmericandstirtocoatthevegetablesinthepaste.Onceincorporated,tossinthestaranise,limeleaves(ifusing),cinnamon,andlemongrass.Stirinthecoconutmilkandwaterandbringtoasimmer.Addthechickenandsimmer,uncovered,for20minutes.Addthepotatoesandpeanutsandcookuntiltender,about25minuteslonger.

Removethestaranise,cinnamon,limeleaves,andlemongrassanddiscard.Atthispointthecurrymaybecooledandrefrigeratedforup

to2days.(Reheatovermedium-lowheat,stirringfrequentlytoavoidscorching.)

Stirthefishsauceandlimejuiceintothecurry,thenadjusttheseasoningwithsugarandsalt.Servewithrice.

Currypasteishardtoarguewith:Thestuffisdelicious,andit’salwayssmarttohaveajaroracaninthepantry.Whileitcancarrythedayonitsown,whynotmakeitpartofacoalitionofthewillingtomakedinnerevenmoreflavorful?Hencethisspiced-upbase—bolsteredbystaranise,cinnamon,coriander,andturmeric,alongwithlemongrassandkaffirlimeleaves(ifyoucanfindthem)—whichgetsyouintobonafideMassamanterritory,andprettyeasilytoo.StringupaMissionAccomplishedbanneroverthefinisheddish.

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Soy-BraisedShortRibsMakes6servings

1C choppedAsianpearor1Capplejuice1C mirin½C sugar1C soysauce1 headgarlic,clovessmashedandpeeled1 bunchscallions6lbs bone-inshortribs1lb carrots,cutintochunks1lb babypotatoes1t sesameoil+ freshlygroundblackpepper+ cookedshort-grainrice,forserving

Combinethepear,mirin,sugar,soysauce,garlic,andscallionsinalargeDutchoven.Arrangetheshortribsmeat-sidedownintheliquid

andaddwatertocover.Setthepotovermedium-highheatandbringtoasimmer.Reducetheheatasneededtomaintainaverygentlesimmerandcook,partiallycovered,flippingandrotatingtheribsoccasionally,untilbouncy-tender,about2hours.Atthispoint,youcancoolthecontentsofthepotandrefrigerateforupto3days.

Removetheribsfromtheirbraisingliquidandskimanyfatfromthesurface.Iftheliquidhasgelled,you’llneedtowarmitbriefly,sothat

youcanstrainoutthenow-spentaromatics.Returntheribsandliquidtothepot,addthecarrotsandpotatoes,andcookuncovereduntiltender,20to25minutes.Stirinthesesameoilandseasonwithpepper.Servewithshort-grainrice.

LuckyPeacheditorDaveChangisknownforhisloveofcheapbeer,hisporkbuns,andhisrage.Butifyouwannaseechildlikedelightovertakehim,allyouneedtodoistalktohimabouthismom’sbraisedshortribs,whicharetheinspirationforthisdish.

HotPotPartyTown

IthinkmywifeandIfirstacquiredourhotplate—a$9.99electricburner—duringagasoutagethatneuteredourstoveandourabilitytomakedinnerforourselves.IrememberwaitingforapotofwatertoboilonitbeingapproximatelyasinterminableasabadacidtripattheDMV,andaccordinglyplannedallfutureuseofittobeformeekheatingneeds.Still,westuckitinacloset,figuringatsomepointtherobustnetworkofcentury-oldpipesthatpowerthemetropoliswouldgiveoutagain,andwe’dcomecallingforit.

Andofcoursethatdidhappen,butintheinterveningyearswetriedtofindawaytomakethisotherwiseunderwhelmingpieceofkitchenequipmentpartofourlives.Theanswer:hotpot.Therearebladdersofjust-add-waterSichuanhotpotstuffatmostbigChinesemarkets,andIlikethem,buttheytasteweirdandhaveingredientliststhatareconfusingandmorallytroubling.Wedoshabu-shabuandothermeat-basedhotpot–typethingsbecausethere’saJapanesebutchershopafewhundredyardsfrommyfrontdoorthatspecializesinthesuper-thinslicedmeatthatyouneedforswishingaroundinhotpots.Ifyoudon’thaveaccesstoit—andmostpeopleinmostplacesdon’t—meat-basedhotpotsaregonnabetoosinewytobefun.

Butthisherehotpot,it’sadifferentstory!Nocreepybaggedbroth.Nofancymeatneeded.Surethereareafewelementstopulltogether,andarandompieceofkitchenequipmentcalledfor.Butwithanextensioncordandabunchoflittledishestodoleoutsaucesin,it’saneasypathtoPartyTown,whichisafineplacetofindoneself.Itiseasytoscaleupordown—usemoreorlessofwhateveryoulike.Cuteverythingupnicely—thetofuinto1-inchblocks,thegreensintoattractivebites.Pileitontoaplatter.Makesurethatthehotpotis

withineverybody’sreach,andyourworkisdone.

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TofuinKombuDashiHotPotMakes4servings

2 pieces(6")kombu+ sauces:soysauce,SesameDippingSauce,andPonzu;

Carrot-GingerDressingorOddFlavorSaucewouldalsobewelcome

+ KabochaRice3 scallions,thinlysliced1 piece(2")freshginger,grated1 sheetnori,sliveredorcrumbled24oz best-qualityfirmtofu(about1½blocks),cutinto1"cubes2 largebunches(3–4lbs)greens(suchasbroccolirabe,broccolini,

mustardgreens,mizuna,orbabybokchoy),cutintobite-sizepieces

Fillashallow,widepotone-thirdofthewayfullwithcoldwaterandaddthekombu.Bringtoagentlesimmeronahotplateinthecenterof

thedinnertable.

Pourthesaucesintolittledippingbowlsforeachdiner.Everyoneshouldgetasaucerofsoy.Dividethekabochariceamongbowlsfor

yourgueststoeatover.Putoutthescallions,gratedginger,andnori—guestscanaddthemtotheirmealastheygo.

Gatheraroundthehotpot.Addthetofuandgreensandletthemcooktotaste—wiltedorjustwarmedthrough,it’suptoyou.Employsauces

andseasoningsatwill.

SesameDippingSauceMakes½cup

¼C tahini1T soysauce1T mirin1t ricevinegar½t sesameoil2T water

Mixalltheingredientsinabowl.Ifneeded,thinwithadditionalwatertoahoney-likeconsistency.

PonzuMakes1cup

½C soysauce2T freshlemonjuice6T freshtangerinejuice

Combinethesoysauce,lemonjuice,andtangerinejuiceinanonreactivecontainerandstirtocombine.Coverandrefrigerateforupto1month.

ThisbootlegponzuisstolenfromNancySingletonHachisu’sJapaneseFarmFood,awonderfulreferenceforhomey,seasonalJapanesecookingideas.Ponzuis:

1.Traditionallymadewithyuzuand/orsudachi(twokindsofJapanesecitrus),butyoucansubintangerineandlemontosimilareffect.

citrus),butyoucansubintangerineandlemontosimilareffect.2.Purchasable.Bottledponzucanbeokaytogreat.3.Alsolovelywithsimplygrilledorbroiledfish.

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EconomyNoodlesMakes2servings

4oz ricevermicelli1T canolaoil2 garliccloves,minced3T soysauce2t fishsauce1½t sugar1C beansprouts+ whitepepper

Preparethenoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections,whichlikelymeans“soakinhotwater.”Drainandsetaside.

Heattheoilinawokor12-inchcastironskilletsetoverhighheatuntilshimmering.Addthegarlicandcookforaminuteuntilfragrant.

Removefromtheheatandstirinthesoysauce,fishsauce,andsugaruntilthesugardissolves.

Returnthepantotheheat,addthebeansprouts,andstir-fryfor1minute.Addthenoodlesandcook,tossingthemuntiltheyabsorbthe

sauceandareheatedthrough.Finishwithacouplegrindsofwhitepepper.

The“economy”ofthesenoodlesiseasytounderstand:There’salmostnothinginthemandittakesalmostnothingtoputtingthemtogether,butthey’redeliciousenoughtobeastreetsidestapleinMalaysia.Therealfunstartswhenyoubuildonthisrecipe.Addafriedegg!Addleftoversteak!OrChinesesausageorwhateverproteinorvegetableseemslikeit’dbegoodwithabowlofnoodles.

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ColdSobawithMushroomsandLeekMakes4servings

1 package(300g/10.5oz)sobanoodles1 mediumleek,darkgreentopstrimmedoff1T neutraloil(orhalfneutraloilandhalfchilioil,ifyouwantitspicy)4oz freshshiitakemushrooms,stemsdiscarded,capssliced¼C Kaeshi,ormoretotaste

1T hondashidissolvedin4Chotwater(oruseDashi)

Setupalargebowloficeandwater.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Cookthesobanoodlesuntiljustsoftenedbutnotyetslack,2to3

minutes.Drainandshockintheicewater,agitatingthenoodleswithyourhandtohelpthenoodlescoolasquicklyaspossible.Drainwellandportionamong4servingdishes.

Halvethetrimmedleeklengthwiseandrinseincoldwater.Cuttheleekcrosswiseinto3-inchsections,thenslicelengthwiseintomatchsticks.

Heatawokorcastironskilletovermedium-highheat,coatwiththeoil,andstir-frytheleekuntilit’sbrowned,5to7minutes.Addthe

mushroomsandcookuntilsoft.Thenaddenoughkaeshitomoistenthevegetables,about¼cup.Whenthemixturestartstobubble,turnofftheheatandaddthehondashi.Divideamong4sidebowls.Serveatonce,dippingthecoldsobaintothehotbroth.Slurpheartily.

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KaeshiMakes3+cups½C mirin1¼C sugar2C soysauce

Bringthemirintoasimmerinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilyounolongersmellalcohol,3to5minutes.

Stirinthesugarandcontinuecookingandstirringuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addthesoysauceandwatchasthekaeshiheatsupand

comesalmosttoaboil.Youwillseetinybubblesformontheperimeter—removethepanfromtheheatassoonastheentiresurfaceofthekaeshibecomescreamytanfromminutebubbles.Cool,decantintoajarwithatight-fittinglid,andstoreforupto1yearinthefridge.

SobacultureinJapanisaborderlinemysticalpractice.Chefsspendtheirwholelivesmakingnoodlesandbrothdayinanddayout,practicingkaizen—thebeliefthatfocusandrepetitionleadstoimprovement,maybeevenmicro-improvements,inthequalityofthefinishedproduct.

Thisrecipeisnotaboutthat.It’saboutnightswhenyouneeddinneronthetable,adishthat’slightenoughtofeelsupermodelybutalsosatisfyingenoughthatyouwon’traccoon-raidtheicecreamsupplyrightafter.Thisisoneofthefewrecipesinthisbookthatcallsforasecondaryrecipe,butthekaeshiisanease-makerforanybodywhowantstoeatsobaontheregular.The10minutesittakestomakewilltranslateintoayear’sworthofpracticallyinstantsobameals.Also,theeagle-eyedamongyouwillnoteafreshwasabirootloiteringinthebackoftheabovephoto.Freshwasabiisexpensiveandhastobemail-orderedfromthePacificNorthwest(atleastinAmerica,andassumingyoudon’tlivenextdoortoawasabifarm),butalittlegratedintoyourdippingsauceisaluxuriousbump-uptothedish.

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JapChaeMakes8servings

10oz cellophaneorsweetpotatonoodles2T grapeseedoil3C thinlyslicedredonions(1largeor2small)3C thinlyslicedredbellpeppers(2peppers)+ koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1C juliennedcarrot(1large)4C thinlyslicedshiitakemushroomcaps(about8oz)1 bunchscallions,cutinto1"pieces(about4oz)2T mincedgarlic½C mirin½C soysauce2t sugar1½t sesameoil3T toastedsesameseeds

Setupalargebowloficeandwater.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Cookthenoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainthe

noodles,shockintheicewater,anddrainagain.Usingkitchenscissors,cutthenoodlesacoupleoftimestobreakupthelongstrands,thentransfertoalargebowl.

Heatthegrapeseedoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionandbellpeppersandcookuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedbut

stillretaintheircrunch.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addthecarrots,shiitakes,scallions,andgarlicandcookuntilthevegetablesareasoft,lightlycaramelizedmass,about10minuteslonger.

Deglazethepanwiththemirin,usingaspatulatoscrapeupanystuck-

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4onbitsfromthebottomofthepan.

Addthevegetablestothebowlofnoodles.Stirinthesoysauce,sugar,sesameoil,andsesameseedsandtosstocombine.Seasontotastewith

saltandpepper.Serveatroomtemperatureonalargeplatter.

Sturdynoodles,heavilyseasoned,atroomtemperature,withenoughstufftossedintheretobealmostpastasalad-y—Ican’tsaythepromiseofjapchaecomesthroughonpaper.Butthetruthisintheeating.Ilikejapchaebestasasidedish,withabigKoreanspread;failingthat,serveitwithkimchiontheside.

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PadSeeEwMakes2servings

8oz boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,thinlyslicedcrosswise¼C oystersauce2T soysauce2T ricevinegar1T sugar2T neutraloil2 garliccloves,thinlysliced5 stalksChinesebroccoliorbroccolirabe,chopped2 largeeggs,beaten8oz freshwidericenoodles+ koshersaltandwhitepepper+ limewedges,forserving

Mixthechickenwiththeoystersauceinasmallbowlandsetaside.Stirtogetherthesoysauce,vinegar,andsugarinanothersmallbowl

andsetaside.

Setawokorlargeskilletoverhighheatandcoatwiththeoil.Afteraminute,addthegarlicandbroccoliandstir-fryuntilthebroccoliis

brightgreenandcrisp-tender,1to2minutes.Transfertoaplate.

Addthechickenandoystersaucetothewokandstir-fryuntilthechickenisjustcookedthrough,about3minutes.Transfertotheplate

withthebroccoli.

Addtheeggtothewokandcookwithoutstirringfor5seconds,stir,chopintolargecurds,andcookuntiljustset,about30secondslonger.

Tossinthenoodlesandstir-fryuntilheatedthrough.Returnthebroccoliandchickentothepanandaddthesauce.Cook,stirring,untileverythingissizzlingandsteamingandheatedthrough.Seasontotastewithsaltandwhitepepper.Servewithlimewedges.

TheInternet,asyouwellknow,isproppedupbytwothings:pornographyandeasyrenditionsofpadThai.Neithersimulacrumisassatisfyingastherealthing.

Padseeew,ontheotherhand,isnaturallyeasy,acrowd-pleasingknockoutthatsurvivestranslationintoalazy-quickpreparationlikethisone.

Youcanscalethisdishup,butcookitinbatchesthatfityourwokandserveportionsastheyareready.Ifyourfriendsorfamilycomplainthattheyallwanttoeatatthesametime,yellatthemloudlyinThaiandtellthemthatyouhaven’tdedicatedyourlifetosellingthisdishonthesideofthestreetjusttopileabunchofnoodlesupinawokandletthemgetgummyandunderflavored.Thenchargethemextra.Touristsnevercalculatetheexchangerateofthebahtfastenough.

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PestoRamenMakes4servings

4C basilleaves1T pinenuts1 garlicclove½C oliveoil+ koshersalt1T gratedparmesan1T gratedpecorinoRomano,plusmoreforgarnish4 portionsfreshramennoodles

Washthebasil,leavingsomewaterclingingtotheleaves.Roughlychopthepinenuts,garlic,andoliveoilinablenderorfoodprocessor.With

themotorrunning,addthebasilandapinchofsaltandprocessuntilsmooth.Addtheparmesanandpecorinoandpulsetomix.

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Cookthenoodlesuntiltheyarerelaxedbutfirmerthanaldente,about2minutes—theywill

continuetosoftenaftercomingoutofthewater.Drain,rinsequicklyincoldwater,andtossinabowlwiththepesto.Topwithasprinkleofpecorinoandserve.

BeforeDannyBowienwasfamousforcooking“AmericanizedOrientalCuisine”atMissionChineseFood,heworkedforaLigurianchefinSanFrancisco.Throughsomeimpossible-soundingfableofastory,heendedupcompetinginaninternationalpesto-makingcompetitionandwinning,thisKoreankidfromOklahomabeatingtheItaliansattheirowngame.Asanaccreditedpestomaster,heissometimesdisposedtomakethegreensauceduringthemonthswhenbasilisinhighstride.Thisled,fora

brieffewnightsatthecrampedlittlespacethatwasthefirstiterationofMissionChineseFoodNewYork,topestoramen.Itsoundsinsane,ofcourse,butitismegadelicious,possiblybetterthanpestoonpasta,andeasytoboot.Freshramennoodlesareamustforthisdish.WelikeSunNoodle,whichprobablysellsfreshramensomewherenearyourZIPcode.

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HiyashiSomenMakes4servings

2t hondashidissolvedin2Chotwater(oruseDashi)½C soysauce2T mirin2T sugar1T driedbabyshrimp(optional)+ koshersalt1 package(300g/10.5oz)somen2 scallions,finelysliced+ wasabipaste(optional)

Combinethehondashi,soysauce,mirin,sugar,anddriedshrimp(ifusing)inasmallsaucepan.Cook,stirring,overmediumheat,justuntil

thesugarisdissolved.Strainthedippingsauceintoanothercontainertocool(youwantittobebetweenice-coldandroomtemperature).Discardtheshrimp.

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Dropinthesomenandcookuntiltender,2to4minutes.Drainandrinsethenoodlesinacolander

undercoldrunningwater.

Serveeachguestasmallbowlofnoodlestwistedintoalittlenestontopofacoupleicecubesalongsideasmallbowlwith½cupofthe

dippingsaucescatteredwiththeslicedscallions.Passaroundalittledishofwasabi,ifdesired,tostirintothedippingsauce.

Whenitishot,dog-dayshot,andsittingnearanopenwindowfeelslikestickingyourheadinanoven,thisiswhatyouwanttoeat.Youcan

tophiyashisomenwithnothing,oryoucantopitwithwhat’sinyourfridge.Forexample,welikeasoupçonofnorichiffonade,ajulienneofrawcucumbers,and/oreggribbons(beateneggscookedintoaflatlittlecrepe,andthencutintothinribbons).

“Asian”“Ragus”:SpicyMushroomRagu

TOP:SichuanPorkRagu;BOTTOM:SichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeef

InthehouseIwasraisedin,therewasonekindofnoodle—Italianpasta—andonekindofsaucethatwentonit:aground-beef-and-tomatoraguthat

simmeredforhoursandhours.Istillloveit.Everybody,kindofliterallyeverybody,fromShanghaitoSt.Louis,lovesthatkindofItalian/Italian-Americancooking.

ButwhatabouttheragusofAsia?SurelyChineseandKoreannonnasliketosimmertheirsaucesonSundaytoo,thusmakingdinnerlaterintheweekaseasyasboilingupsomenoodles.

Wewhittledourwaydowntothesethreefavorites.

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SichuanPorkRaguMakesabout1quart(4servingswithnoodlesorrice)

2T neutraloil2 largeyellowonions,halvedandthinlysliced(about5C)1lb groundpork1T choppedgarlic2T doubanjiangorgochujang(spicychili-beanpaste)1T Sichuanpeppercorns1t chiliflakes(preferablygochugaru)1T soysauce1T sugar¼C water+ koshersalt2C coarselychoppedbokchoy+ cookedfreshwheatnoodles(lomeinorramen),ricenoodles,

spaghetti,orriceifthat’swhatyoufeellikehaving+ thinlyslicedscallions,forgarnish

Heat1tablespoonoilina3-quartsaucepan(orawidedeepskillet)overmediumheat.Addtheonionsandcook,stirringandfolding,untilthe

onionsarelightgoldenbutstillretaintheirshape,about15minutes.Scooptheonionsontoaplateandwipeouttheskilletwithatowel.

Heattheremaining1tablespoonoilinthepan,thenaddthegroundporkandcook,breakingthemeatintosmallpieceswithaspoon,until

justcookedthrough,about8minutes.

Pushthemeattoonesideofthepanandaddthegarlictotheporkdrippings.Sweatuntilfragrant,1to2minutes,thenremovefromthe

heat.Stirinthechili-beanpaste,peppercorns,chiliflakes,soysauce,sugar,

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water,andreservedonions.Seasontotastewithsalt.Atthispoint,thesaucemayberefrigeratedorfrozen.Reheatbeforeproceeding.

Bringthesaucetoasimmerovermediumheatandstirinthechoppedgreens.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthestemsarejusttender,3to

5minutes.Servethesauceovernoodlesorrice,sprinkledwithscallions.

ThisbastardlovechildofBologneseandmapotofuisade-escalatedandsimplifiedversionofadishfromMomofukuSsämBar.YouwillWinFriendsandInfluencePeoplebyservingitinyourhome.

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SpicyMushroomRaguMakesabout1quart(6to8servingswithnoodlesorrice)

8oz freshshiitakeorbuttonmushrooms,stemsdiscarded2 smallcarrots,roughlychopped1 smallonion,roughlychopped4oz takuan(pickleddaikon)orcannedSichuanpickledradish,chopped10 garliccloves,roughlychopped½C canolaoil1t koshersalt½t chiliflakes⅓C gochujangordoubanjiang(spicychili-beanpaste)2T fermentedblackbeans¼C soysauce+ cookedfreshwheatnoodles(lomeinorramen),ricenoodles,

spaghetti,orriceifthat’swhatyoufeellikehaving

Combinethemushrooms,carrots,onion,takuan,andgarlicinafoodprocessorandpulsetofinelychop.

HeattheoilinalargeDutchovenovermediumheat.Addthechoppedvegetablesandsalt.Cookuntilsoftened,about20minutes.

Stirinthechiliflakes,gochujang,blackbeans,andsoysauce.Simmer,uncovered,overlowheat,stirringfrequentlytopreventscorching,until

alltheliquidhasevaporated,about30minutes.Atthispoint,thesaucemayberefrigeratedorfrozen.Reheatbeforeproceeding.Serveovernoodlesorrice.

DaveChanglikestocookwithinstantramen.(Asevidence,youcan

seethefirstissueofLuckyPeachorthevideosofhimdoingsoonourwebsite.)Oneofhisfinestcreationswasaninstant-ramenlasagnathattookalloftheskillsandpowersofoneofhismosttalentedlieutenants,TonyKim,toconjure.(Theinstantramenwaspowderizedintoflour,re-formedintodoughsheets,cut,andbaked.)Wehaveextractedandunengineeredthesaucethatwentinsideitforyoureasyhomeenjoymenthere.

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SichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeefMakes2main-courseservingswithnoodlesor4servingsaspartofamultidishmealwithrice

+ koshersalt2C diced(½")celery1T neutraloil4oz groundbeef1½T doubanjiangorgochujang(spicychili-beanpaste)1½T finelychoppedfreshginger1t soysauce1t Chinkiangvinegar+ cookedfreshwheatnoodles(lomeinorramen),ricenoodles,

spaghetti,orriceifthat’swhatyoufeellikehaving

Bringafewcupsofsaltedwatertoaboilinasaucepan.Blanchtheceleryfor30seconds,thendrainandrinseinacolanderundercold

water.

Heatawokorcastironskilletoverhighheatandcoatwiththeoil.Whentheoilisshimmering,addthegroundbeefandstir-fryuntil

cookedthrough,usingaspoontobreakthemeatintosmallpieces.Addthechili-beanpasteandcontinuetostiruntilthefatinthepanhastakenonthecolorofthechilipaste.Addthegingerandstir-fryuntilfragrant,justafewsecondsmore,thenaddthecelery.

Continuetostir-fryuntiltheceleryishotandcoatedwithsauce.Finishwiththesoysauceandvinegar.Atthispointthesaucemaybe

refrigeratedorfrozen.Reheatbeforeproceeding.Serveovernoodlesorrice.

Whenweweremakingthe“AllYouCanEat”issueofLuckyPeach,wegottothinkingaboutceleryalot,because,youknow,afteryoupickastalkortwooutofaceleryheartfortunasaladorstock,whatdoyoudowiththerest?Howdoesoneeatthroughthecelerywithoutresortingtosomecheaptricklikeantsonalog?OnesolutioncamefromGabrielleHamiltonofNewYorkCity’sPrune:Shebraisedcelerystalksinmeatsauce,thenservedthetendervegetablestoppedwiththesamerichragu.

Now,howtomakeit“Asian”?FuchsiaDunlopprovidedtheanswer.FuchsiaistheforemostEnglish-languageauthorityonChinesecooking,someonewhohaseducatedscoresofWesterners(LuckyPeachincluded!)ontheflavorstrategiesofSichuancooking.HerbookEveryGrainofRicewasarealdepartureforher—itwasaboutmakingChinesefoodaccessibletoreaderswhomightbeanxiousaboutcookingitathome.Thisrecipefromthebook,whichcameoutduringmyextendedphaseofcelerymeditation,hasstuckwithme—I’mhappytoadaptithere.It’snotreallyaragu,moreofastir-fry,butsinceitsbackstorycomesfromragu,andsincequotationmarksgiveyoulicensetodowhateveryouwant,we’reincludingithereinthe“ragu”section.I’llalsonotethatwhilewe’vesuggestedtheserecipesassaucesfornoodles,boththisandtheSichuanPorkRaguareexcellentoverrice.

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FriedRice,TwoWaysMakes2main-courseor4side-dishservings

3C cookedandcooledlong-grainrice(preferablyadayold)+ STUFF(Seethispageandthispage.)+ SAUCE(Seethispageandthispage.)2T neutraloil2 largeeggs,beaten1T choppedgarlic1T choppedfreshginger2 scallions,thinlysliced,whitesandgreensseparated+ FLOURISHES(optional)

Putthericeinalargebowlandbreakupanyclumpswithyourhands.Settherice,theSTUFF,andtheSAUCEin3separatebowlsnearthe

stove.

Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinawokorheavyskilletoverhighheat.Pourtheeggsintotheskilletandcook,foldingthecookedeggupand

overitselfuntilsetbutstillglossyandtender,about30seconds.Removetoaplateandreturnthepantotheheat.

Addtheremaining1tablespoonoiltothepan,then,amomentlater,thegarlic,ginger,andscallionwhites.Stir-fryforjustafewseconds,

thenaddtheSTUFF.Continuestir-fryinguntilhotandcookedthrough,1to3minutes.

Dumpthericeintothepanandtosstomix.Useaspatulatospreadthericeoutandmaximizecontactwiththehotpan.Stirandfoldoncea

minutefor3minutes,untilallofthericeishotandalittlecharredinspots.

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PourtheSAUCEoverthericeandtosstocoateverything.Thisisagoodmomenttoconsiderinvestinginawokspatulafornexttime.

Honestly,I’msurprisedyou’vemadeitthisfarwithoutone.You’reworthit!

Keepcooking,tossing,spreading,andtossingagain,untilthericeisevenlycoloredandlookspleasantlydry.Returnthescrambledeggsto

thepan,choppingacoupleoftimestobreakthemup,andtossinthescalliongreensandanylast-minuteFLOURISHES.Eat.

ThisrecipetakesonetechniqueforfryingriceandshowstwopathsitcantravelbasedsimplyontheSTUFFandtheSAUCEthatyoupourin.Thevariationsareendless.Also,ifyouhappentobeorderingtakeout,throwanextrariceonyourorder,andyou’reteedupperfectlytomakefriedricethefollowingday.

ChineseSausageFriedRice

Stuff½C thincoinsofChinesesausage(preferable)ordicedbaconorpancetta

(ifyoucan’tbewiththeoneyoulove,lovetheoneyou’rewith)½C frozenpeas

Sauce(whiskedtogether)1T Shaoxingwineordrysherry1T fishsauceorsoysauce1t sugar½t sesameoil

FriedRiceMadeNice

Weadviseportioningoutallyouringredientsinadvancelikeyou’reahostonCookingChannel.Sauceinonebowl,stuffinanother,mincedprepinanotherstill.Thisishowit’sdoneinprokitchensandstreetsidestalls,andthereasonisthatitworks!

Takingtheeggoutofthepanandaddingitbackinensuresthatitwillstayfluffyandyellowandtender.Wecouldbeaccusedofbeingfussyhere.ItwouldbeeasiertolettheeggsgetallHammer-timed—overcookedtosqueaky,sulfuryshreds.It’suptoyouwhetherornottotreatyoureggslikeparachutepantsinthenineties,butwethinkthismethodiseasyandnice.

Herbsisgood,man.Ifyouhavecilantrohangingoutandnoplansforit,putitontopofyourfriedrice.Sameforanyfreshherbthatmakessensewiththeflavorsyou’reusing—putdowntherosemary.Ahighpileofherbsonabowloffriedricemakesitseemfancyforsomereason,anditeatswell.

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Stuff½ largeshallot,minced4oz groundpork

Sauce(whiskedtogether)1T fishsauce,ormoretotaste1t sugar10 grindswhitepepper(scant⅛t)

Flourishes½C herbs(pickedmintleaves,tornbasilleaves,cilantrostemsandleaves)+ limewedges(forserving,nottossingintherice)

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UmeRiceMakes2side-dishservings

1–2 umeboshi2 shisoleaves2C freshlycookedshort-grainrice

Pitandmincetheplumstoyield1tablespoon.Thinlyslicetheshisoleaves,discardingtheirstems.Gentlyfoldthemincedplumandshisointotherice.

KabochaRiceMakes4to6side-dishservings

1½C rice(preferablyshort-grain)1C diced(¼")kabochasquash1T sake½t koshersalt1½C water

Rinsethericeinafewchangesofcoldwateruntilthewaterrunsclear.Drainwell.

Combinetherice,kabochasquash,sake,salt,andwaterinaricecookerorheavy-liddedpot.Cookaccordingtoricecookerdirectionsuntilthe

riceistenderandthesquashiscooked(orsetthepotovermediumheatfor5minutes,thenturntolowandsimmeruntilthericeistenderandtheliquidisabsorbed,about20minutes).

Varietyisthespiceofrice.Don’tgetstuckinarut.Jazzitup.Takearisk.Getcreative.Thinkofthepossibilities:Youcouldusemintinsteadofshiso,sweetpotatoinsteadofkabocha.It’syourrice,afterall.

JumukBapMakes2servings

Beef3oz leangroundbeef1T soysauce1T gratedfreshpearorpearjuice,applecider,orpineapplejuice1t sugar¼t mincedgarlic¼t sesameoil+ freshlygroundblackpepper

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Bap1½C cookedshort-grainrice(donotrinseorwashthericebeforecooking

it)2t sesameoil1 sheetnori,tornintosmallbits

Preparethebeef:Mixtogetherthebeef,soysauce,pear,sugar,garlic,sesameoil,andapinchofpepper.Coverwithplasticwrapand

marinateatroomtemperaturefor15minutesorinthefridgeforupto1hour.

Heatasmallskilletovermediumheatandaddthebeefandmarinade.Cook,stirringtobreakupthemeat,untilthemeatisbrownedand

cookedthroughandthepanlooksdry,3to5minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Makethebap:Putthericeintoalargebowlanddrizzlewiththesesameoil.Brieflymixtogetherwithyourhands(youmaywantto

weardisposableplasticgloves).Addthecookedgroundbeefandnoriandmixagain.Rollthemixtureinto1-inchballs(about2tablespoonseach),compactinggentlysothericestickstogether.Servewarmorrefrigerateforlatersnacking.

Theideabehindjumukbapisalmostlaughablysimple:Mixsomemeatwithsomericeandsquishitintoaball.That’sit.IthoughtitmightbeagoodwaytorepurposeleftoversfromaKoreanfeastathome,butthedishgraduallytookonalifeofitsownaroundthehouse.Thejumukbaparefuntoeatforlittlechildrenandoldmenalike,andoncechilled,they’resturdyenoughtopackupinyourkids’lunchboxes!

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OnigiriMakes6onigiri

4C freshlycookedshort-grainrice(stillhot)+ seasalt+ filling(chooseone):umeboshi,mayonnaiseytunasalad,chopped

parsley(seebelowforamounts)+ oneofthefollowing(optional):sesameseeds,8"x2"stripstoasted

nori

Setupyouronigiri-buildingstation:Arrangearicecookerorpotwithcookedrice,bowlswithsaltandfilling,andadishofwaterwithin

arm’sreach.Havereadyaplateorbakingsheetonwhichyouwillplaceyourformedonigiri.Ifusingsesameseeds,scatteronaplate.

Fluffthericewithafork.(Forparsleyonigiri,add2tablespoonschoppedparsleyandalittlesalt.)Wetyourhandsinthedishofwater

andsprinklethemwithsalt.Scoopabout⅓cupriceintoyourhandandmakea1-inchhollowinthecenterofthericewithyourfinger.Then:

Forumeboshi:Place1plumintothehollow,thensealthericeoverthefilling.Rollthericeintoaball,thengentlyshapeandcompactitwithyoursaltedhands,graduallyforminga1-inch-thicktriangularshape.

Fortuna:Place1tablespoontunasaladintothehollow,thensealthericeoverthefilling.Rollthericeintoaball,thengentlyshapeandcompactitwithyoursaltedhands,graduallyforminga1-inch-thicktriangularshape.

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Forparsley:Gentlyshapeandcompacttheparsley-fleckedricewithyoursaltedhands,graduallyforminga1-inch-thicktriangularshape.

Ifdesired,wrapeachonigiriwithastripoftoastednoriorrollinsesameseedstocoat.

Variation:Turntheseintoyakionigiri.Heatacastironskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonigiritothepanandcookuntilalightcrustforms,about2minutes.Flipandbrushlightlywithsoysauce.Cookuntilacrustformsontheotherside.Flipandbrushwithsoysauce.Cookuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,flippingasnecessary,untilcrispallover,about5minutes.

Ananytimesnack,idealforpicnics,popularwithchildren.Thesalted-handtechniqueoutlinedherecomesfrommyfriendMikiTanaka,andisthesecrettokilleronigiri.

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KimbapMakes4servings

4C freshlycookedshort-ormedium-grainrice1t sesameoil,plusmoreasneeded½t ricevinegar+ koshersalt4 sheetsnori

+3or4ofthefollowing,cutintomatchsticks~½C carrots~½C cucumber~½C pickleddaikon½–1C ham,imitationcrab,oranyappealingleftovermeat1 eggcrepe/omelet(cook2beatenlargeeggsinalargeskilletwithout

stirringuntilsetinathinsheet)

Mixtherice,sesameoil,vinegar,andasprinkleofsaltinamediumbowl.Lightlytoastasheetofnoribywavingitsevenoreighttimesa

fewinchesaboveagasburner.Laythenorionasushimatandspread1cupoftheseasonedriceacrosstheendclosesttoyou(thericeshouldcoverone-thirdofthenoriwiththeemptyspacefarthestfromyou).

Arrangeone-quarterofthefillings½inchinfromtheedgeofthericeclosesttoyouinanevenpilethatrunsthewidthofyournori.Pickup

theedgeofthematclosesttoyouandrollawayfromyourbody,pressingdownevenlyacrossthelogasyougo,encasingthefillinginasnugsleepingbagofriceandnori.Repeatfortheremainingnori,rice,andfillings.Moistenapapertowelwithabitofsesameoilanduseittowipethebladeofasharpknifebeforeslicing.

KimbapareanunfussyandmorerobustcousinofJapanesesushirolls.DaveChangbroughtthemonatrainridewetooktoWashington,D.C.,andsincethenthey’vealwaysbeen“trainfood”tome,thoughtheyareequallygoodonroadtrips,planetrips,andpicnics.

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StickyRiceWrappedinLotusLeavesMakes4servings

4 driedshiitakemushrooms2 largedriedlotusleaves1½C sticky(sometimescalledglutinous)rice1½C coldwater1T neutraloil2 Chinesesausages,slicedintothincoins+ koshersaltandwhitepepper½C mincedshallots3 garliccloves,minced4 scallions,chopped1T Shaoxingwine1T lightbrownsugar2T soysauce1T oystersauce1T choppedfreshginger

Soaktheshiitakesinhotwaterfor30minutes.Drainandroughlychop.

Cutthelotusleavesinhalf,puttheminalargebowlorapluggedsink,andcovertheminhotwater.Letthemsoakwhileyoucookthericeand

filling.

Combinethericeandcoldwaterinamediumsaucepan.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoasimmer,cover,andsetatimerfor

15minutes.Scoopthericeintoawidebowlandletitcoolforafewminutes.

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7

Meanwhile,heattheoilinawokovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addthesausagesandbrownfor1minute.Tossinthe

shiitakes,seasonwithsaltandwhitepepper,andstir-fryuntiltheyhavedriedoutslightlyandareturningbrownaroundtheedges,about3minutes.Addtheshallots,garlic,andhalfofthescallions.Cookfor30seconds,keepingeverythingmovingsoyoudon’tburnthegarlic.Reducetheheatslightlyandstirin2tablespoonswater,thewine,sugar,soysauce,andoystersauce.Cookfor1to2minutes,thenremovethewokfromtheheat,foldinthegingerandremainingscallions,andsetaside.

Oncethericeiscooled,scoopthesausagemixtureoverthericeandgentlyfoldtocombine.

Removethelotusleavesfromtheirsoakingbowl,patthemdry,andtrimoffthetoughcenterstem.Layhalfaleafonyourworksurface

withthecutsideclosesttoyou.Placeone-quarterofthericefillinginthecenteroftheleafandcoaxitintoarectangularmass.Foldthecutside(bottomedge)oftheleafupandoverthepileofrice.Thenfoldintheleftsideoftheleaffollowedbytherightside.Tightlyrollandtuckuntilyou’releftwithaneatlittlepacketthesizeofanindexcard.Repeatwiththeremainingleavesandfilling.Tiethefinishedpacketssnuglywithkitchentwine.

Setupasteameroverhighheat.Whenitreachesfullsteam,nestlethepacketsintothesteamerandcookfor15minutes.Servehot,orcoolto

roomtemperatureandrefrigerate.Thewrappedricepacketswillkeepforupto2daysinthefridge.Reheatinasteamerorthemicrowave.

You’vehadlapmeifan—thesteamedlotus-wrappedpackagesofsoy-saucystickyricestuddedwithChinesesausageandothermeats—atdimsum.Nowyoucanhavethemathome!(Orma.)Youcouldsubstituteallmanneroffoliageforthedifficult-to-sourcelotusleaves,whichareinedibleandineleganttoworkwithonaccountoftheirbrittlenessandsize,butthere’ssomethingaboutthespecificflavortheyimpartthatmakesthem

essentialtothisdish.

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OmuriceMakes1serving

1T butter1 skinless,bonelesschickenthigh(about4oz),cutinto1"pieces¼C mincedonion1C cookedrice(preferablyadayold)+ koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2T ketchup,plusmoreforserving2T frozengreenpeas1 largeegg,beaten+ neutraloil

Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addthechickenandcookuntilopaquebutnotquitecookedthrough,about2minutes.

Addtheonionandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthechickeniscookedthroughandtheonionistranslucent,4to5minuteslonger.

Addthericeandcook,tossingandfoldingtocombineandheatthrough,about2minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Pushthericetotheedgesofthepan,clearinga3-inchlandingzoneinthebottomofthepan.Addtheketchuptothebarespotinthepanand

stirwithasiliconespatulafor30secondsuntillightlycaramelized.Mixthericeandketchupuntilcombined,about1minute.Addthefrozenpeasandtosstoheatthrough.Transferthericemixturetoabowlandkeepwarm.

Seasontheeggwithapinchofsalt.Heatacoupleofdropsofoilinan8-inchnonstickskillet.Pourtheeggmixtureintothepan,swirlingto

coatthepaninathin,evenlayer.Lettheeggcrepecookuntilthetopisset,thenspoonthefriedriceontoonehalfofthecrepe.Foldtheeggover

thericeandslidetheomeletontoaplate.Servewithketchup.

MostcooksandchefssaythatthesimplicityorthecleanlinessortheprecisionofJapanesecuisineisthebeaconthatdrewthemtoit.FormeitwaslearningthattheJapanesebelieveitis100percentokaytoabsolutelyhouseyoureggsinketchup.Omurice(akarice-filledomelets)areafixtureofcollegestudents’dietsandoflonelysalarymenwhohangoutinkissaten,theWesternizedcoffeeshopsthatarearelicofJapan’spost-WWIIreconstructionera.Thisain’tfancykaisekifood,butifyou’reaketchup-and-eggsperson,it’smightyfineeating.

EatYourGreens:Servethesecommunallywithanythingandeverythinginthisbook.Greenswith

WholeGarlic

TOP:BokChoywithOysterSauce;BOTTOM:Dry-FriedGreenBeans

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GreenswithWholeGarlicMakes4servings

2T neutraloil6 garliccloves,peeledbutwhole1lb peagreensorlargespinach(i.e.,notbaby)orbokchoy(babieshalved

lengthwiseorbigguyssliced)¼C chickenbroth

Pourtheoilintoawokandaddthegarliccloves.Setthewokovermediumheatandwarmtheoilsothegarlicsizzles.Turnthecloves,

caramelizingthemevenly,for2to3minutes.(Notethatifyou’renotcookinginawok,maybeyouwannacockthepanupsidewayssotheoilpoolsaroundthegarlicclovesduringthisstage,toimitatewok-ishproportions.There’sasubtledifferencetocookingsomethinginevenaminordepthofoil—astherewouldbeinthewok—inthattheoilisgoingtogetlesshammeredduringthebrowningprocessandpickupmoreandbettergarlicflavor.)

Addthegreensandtosstocoatintheoil.Addthebrothandcovertheskillet,cookingthegreensuntilwiltedandjusttender,about2minutes.

Servethegreenswiththegarliccloves.

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Dry-FriedGreenBeansMakes4servings

2T neutraloil1lb greenbeans,whole,orChineselongbeans,cutinto4"lengths1T choppedgarlic1T choppedfreshginger¼C choppedscallions½t sambaloelekorSambal1T soysauce½t sugar+ koshersalt

Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinawokovermediumheat.Afteraminute(orassoonastheoilisgettingtotheohshitthisoilmeansbusiness

levelofheat),addthegreenbeansandstir-fryuntiltheystarttoshrivelandturnbrown,8minutes.Transfertoaplate.

Turntheheatuptohighandaddtheremaining1tablespoonoil.Addthegarlic,ginger,andscallions.Stir-fryforafewsecondsuntil

fragrant,thenaddthesambal.Addthegreenbeans,soysauce,andsugar.Tossuntilthebeansarecoatedinsauceandheatedthrough.Seasontotastewithsaltandserveimmediately.

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BokChoywithOysterSauceMakes4servings

+ koshersalt+ neutraloil2T choppedgarlic1lb babybokchoy2T oystersauce,ormoretotaste

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.

Meanwhile,heat½inchoilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandgentlycookuntilthegarlicisgoldenbrown.Removewitha

slottedspoonanddrainonaplatelinedwithpapertowels.Setthepanwiththegarlicoilaside.

Addthebokchoytotheboilingwaterandblanchuntilcrisp-tender,about2minutes.Theleaveswillgolimp;theheartofthebokchoy

shouldofferonlyalittleresistancetothetipofaknife.Drainwellandblotwithpapertowelstoremoveexcesswater.

Arrangethebokchoyonaplatteranddrizzlewiththeoystersauce.Drizzlewithalittleofthereservedgarlicoilandsprinklewiththefried

garlic.

IMPORTANT:Tasteyouroystersauce!Somearesaltierormoreconcentratedthanothers,andmayneedtobethinnedoutwithafewspoonfulsofwaterorbroth.

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Miso-GlazedEggplantMakes4to6servings

4 Japaneseeggplants,halvedlengthwise1T neutraloil¼C redmiso2T mirin+ sesameseeds

Heattheovento450°F.(Lazypowermove:Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpapertomakecleanupsupereasy.)

Slicktheeggplantsalloverwithoilandarrangethemcut-sideuponthebakingsheet.Roastfor10minutes—theyshouldbebarelywilted,a

verylightroast.

Meanwhile,whisktogetherthemisoandmirininasmallbowl.

Smearthecutsideoftheeggplantswiththemisomixtureandroastuntiltheeggplantsaretenderandthemisoisbrownedandbubbling,

10minuteslonger.Sprinklewithsesameseedsandserve.

Thisisoneofthosecenter-of-the-platetypesofvegetablepreparationsthatcaneasilysupplantmeat.(Serveitwithshort-grainriceandanyofthepicklesinthisbook,orwithstore-boughtkimchi.)Theeggplantstakeonasuper-richcaramellyumamiflavor.It’sastandardJapaneseresponsetothepartofthesummerwhenthere’smoreeggplantaroundthananyoneknowswhattodowith,anditworksverywellonagrill—justputtheeggplantsoveralow-to-mediumfire,sothemisodoesn’tburntoofastandthefleshoftheeggplanthastimetocookallthewaythrough.

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1

RoastedSquashwithRedGlazeMakes6to8servings

2lbs mixedhardsquash(suchasdelicata,kabocha,andacorn),seededandcutinto1"wedges

2T neutraloil+ koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1T mincedfreshginger1T mincedgarlic¼C mincedscallions,plusmoreforgarnish2T water¼C soysauce2T mirin1T ricevinegar1T sugar

Heattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Tossthesquashwith1tablespoonoftheoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andarrangeonthebakingsheet.Roastuntiltender,about35

minutes.

Meanwhile,heattheremaining1tablespoonoilinamediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheginger,garlic,andscallionsandsweatuntil

softandfragrant,about2minutes.Stirinthewater,soysauce,mirin,vinegar,andsugar.Bringtoasimmerandcookuntiltheglazeissyrupy,about8minutes.

Drizzletheroastedsquashwiththeglazeandsprinklewithmorescallions.(Thesquashinthephotohavenothadtheirseconddoseof

scallionsyet.)Serve.

Thiskindofredglazeistraditionallyputoverallkindsofmeat:Wefiguredwhynottryitonacenter-of-the-platevegetablelikesquash?Theresultisasavory-sweetandcompulsivelyeatablevegetableyoucanbuildamealaround.

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Stir-FriedAsparagusMakes4servings

+ koshersalt1 largebunchasparagus(canalsosubgreenbeansorbroccolirabe),cut

into2"pieces2T neutraloil2T choppedgarlic1t sambaloelekoracouplesmallfreshchilies,finelychopped2T fishsauce¼C oystersauce1T sugar+ whitepepper½C chickenstock

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboilandsaltitwell.Blanchtheasparagusforaminuteortwo.

Meanwhile,heattheoilinawokovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandcookuntilfragrantbutnotbrowned.

Draintheasparagusinacolander,shakethemdryforafewseconds(alittlewaterisnotaproblem),andtossintothewok.Cranktheheatall

thewayup.Stir-fryforaminute.Addthesambalandfishsauceandstir-fryforafewseconds.Addtheoystersauce,sugar,andafewgrindsofwhitepepper.Stir-fryforafewmoreseconds,thenaddthestockandcookuntilthesauceisthickerthanwaterbutnowherenearaglaze,justacoupleminutes.

Serveonalargeplatterorinashallowbowl.Eathot.

ThisisarecipecoppedfromAndyRickerofthePokPokrestaurantempire,whohaswrittenabookonThaicookingthatisessentialEnglish-languagereadingforanybodywhowantstogodowntherabbitholeofeffortandauthenticitytoproducetrulygreatThaicookingathome.

Otherwise,thispreparation,whichAndysharedwithmeasawayofcookingfiddleheadferns,hasbecomeanoft-usedapproachtoThai-stylevegcookeryinmyhouse,particularlyinthespring,whenfiddleheadsandasparagusareinseason.

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5

WarmEggplantwithGreenPeppersMakes6to8servings

1½lbs smalleggplants(preferablyJapanese)¼C neutraloil6 garliccloves3 longgreenchilipeppersorItalianfryingpeppers,cutinto1"pieces+ koshersalt

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addtheeggplantsandcookuntilcompletelytenderbutnotfallingapart,about20minutes.Removewith

tongstoaplateorbakingsheetlinedwithpapertowels.Setasidetocool.

Meanwhile,heattheoilinalargeskilletoverlowheat.Addthegarlicandcook,turningwithtongs,untilallsidesarelightlygoldenandthe

garlicistender,about6minutes.Withaslottedspoon,transferthegarlictoabowlorlargemortar.

Increasetheheatundertheskillettomedium,addthepeppers,andcook,turning,soallsidesblisterandbrown.Donotlettheoilsmokeor

turndark.

Removethestemsfromtheeggplantsandcutlengthwiseintoquarters.(Iftheyareverylong,cutcrosswisetoyield3×1-inchhunksof

eggplant.)Addtothebowlwiththegarlic.

Withaslottedspoon,scoopthepeppersintothebowlwiththeeggplantandgarlic.Seasonwithsaltandpourinalittledrizzleofthegarlic-

pepperoil.Beginmashingwithaspoonorpestle.Addmoreoilandkeep

mashingtoyieldarichbutnottoooilymixture.Theamountofoilyouusewilldependontheinnatetextureofthefleshofyoureggplant.Re-seasonwithsalttotasteandservewarm.

Duringtheconceptualizationphaseofthisbook,we’deatluncharoundtownindifferentrestaurants,meetingaboutthisorthatissue,hammeringoutaschedule.ThiswasadishweorderedonawhimfromaplacecalledtheBao,which,atthemomentIamtypingthis,servesthebestxiaolongbaoinNewYork.Ican’tbelievethatistrue,sinceit’sonatouristystretchofSt.Mark’sPlace,insteadofhiddeninamallinFlushing,butthetruthisthetruth.Anyway,ourItalianphotographerimmediatelysaidthisdishcouldbeItalian,anditcould.Itcouldbefromanywhereeggplantsandpeppersgrowandgotogether,andit’sservedinaweirdlittlewoodenmortarandpestle,formushingthetenderandoilyfruitstogether.(They’dprobablybealittlemorewiltedandcookedthantheyareinthepicture,honestly!)ServeitasasidewithaChineseorItalianmeal.Nobody’sgonnamind.

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CornCheeseMakes6to8servings

4oz bacon,chopped(about¾C)2T butter1lb frozencornkernels(about3C)orthekernelscutfrom3–4ears

freshcorn4oz creamcheese1T whitemiso2T mayonnaise1C shreddedmozzarellacheese

Heattheovento450°F.

Placethebaconinalarge,coldskilletandsetovermediumheat.Cook,stirringoften,untilthebaconiscrispyanditsfatrendered,about10

minutes.

Pouroffmostofthefatfromthepanandtossinthebutter.Whenthebuttermeltsandsizzles,addthecornandtosstocoat.Cookfor2to3

minutestoheatthecornthrough.Addthecreamcheeseandmisoandusethebackofaspoontosmushuntiltheymeltandcoatthecorn.Stirinthemayoandtossuntilthemixtureiscreamyandsmooth.

Spoonthecornintoabakingdish(orafajitapan!)bigenoughtofitthecornmixtureina½-to1-inchlayer.Sprinklewiththemozzarella

andbakeuntilbrownedandbubbling,5to7minutes.

CorncheeseisaKoreandrinkingsnack,onethatIhavenevereatenaversionofthatIwoulddescribeas“good.”Still,Iorderit,weallorderit,

withourgrapefruitmakkoliandourhugebottlesofHiteandallthatinadvisablesoju.Andsureastheclearliquiddrainsfromtheglass,thecorndisappearsfromthetable.There’ssomethingaboutcorncheesethat’shardtosaynoto.

SinceIthinka“traditional”corncheesewouldbedisappointingandgrosstoanyonenotaccustomedtoit/notalreadydrunk,we’veturbochargedours.Nowthere’sbacon,whichmakesallfoodbetter,andcreamcheeseinplaceofmostofthemayonnaisethat’ssometimesusedtosauceupthecorn,becausecreamcheeseisasdeliciousanemulsifierasexists.NotethatthemozzarellacalledforhereshouldnothavebeenlovinglywrungfromaSouthernItalianbuffalo,butinsteadwhateveryoursupermarketstocks,possiblypre-shredded.

RoastedSweetPotatoesMakesasmanyservingsasyou’dlike

+ sweetpotatoes

Heattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Arrangethesweetpotatoesonthebakingsheetandroastuntiltheyareverytenderandtheiraromafillstheroom,about45minutesto1hour.Afewspotswillleakbubblingcaramel.Thetimingwilldependonthesize,density,age,andvarietyofthepotato,butdon’tundercookthem.Theyaresomewhatforgivingifyouforgetthem,butdon’tletthemgosolongthattheydryoutorburn.Wrapinfoil(soyoucanholdthem)andeathot.

Iknowthatit’snotexactlyamind-blowingrecipetosay“Hey,gobakeapotato,”butthebakedsweetpotatoisanunheraldedsnackfood.Whenwedecidedwewantedtoputoneinthebook,theteamsentoutfeelerstofindtheAsianloadedbakedpotato—somethingwithatrashyLuckyPeachzingtoit.

Butitdoesn’texist,ornotwidely.Thenonenight,afterdaysofcookingandphotographingandeatingsoy-saucythisandchili-spikedthat,wefinishedthedaywiththesepotatoes.Andweallendedupgettingbehindthesentiment:Sometimesabakedsweetpotatoisallyouneed.

Ifirstheardaboutthem,aboutthiswayofeatingsweetpotatoes,frommyfriendMikiTanaka,whotoldmestoriesofsnow-blanketedwinterinherseasideJapanesetown,where,downquietstreets,shewouldcomeuponabeaconofwarmthandlight:avendorsellinghot,foil-wrappedpotatoescookedoverawoodfire.Theyweretheseasonalfoodthatsignaledthearrivalofshortdaysandlong,starrynights.

WriterNaomiDuguidpraisedbakedpotatoesinChinainourStreetFoodissue,andeditorJoannaSciarrinocorroboratesheraccount.“There’snoshortageofinterestinganddeliciousstreetfoodinthebackalleysof

Shanghai—steamybaozibuns,slipperyliangpinoodles,overstuffedjianbingcrepes,”shetoldme,recallingherdaysasstudentthere.“Nothingwasabettersnackthanthenearlysaccharinecoal-roastedsweetpotatoes[kaodigua]soldoutofenormousirondrumsforacoupleofyuan[about50cents].Ilikedthemmostlybecausetheytastedgood,butalsobecauseIlikedtheideaofeatingapotatoonthego.”

Weofferthesuggestionofsnackingonbakedsweetpotatoesnottocheatyououtofamorecomplicatedrecipe,butbecausesometimesyoudon’tneedone.

ChineseRoastChicken

WedonottradelightlyinimperativesatLuckyPeach,butthisoneiseasy:Youshouldberoastingchickensathome.

Asidefromtheirfundamentaldeliciousnessandincomparableversatility,theyarealsoTheGiftThatKeepsonGiving.

Atmyhousewetakethecarcassandpicked-overbonesfromachickendinnerandthrowtheminasouppotandcoverthemwithwater.Bythetimethekidsareasleep,thereareacouplequartsofanicelightchickenbroththatcrusheswhateverthey’returningoutoverattheoldCollegeInn.Thatbrothcouldbeasoupthenextday,abraisingmedium,somethingtocookricein—andrequiresnospecialefforttomake.

BecauseIloveandrespectyou,Iimagineyoualreadyknowthesethings.Perhapsyoualreadyhavearegularroastroutine.WhichiswhywepresentyouwiththesethreeChinese-influencedoptions.They’rejustbarelymoreworkthanthebasic,unadorned,vaguelyEuropeanbirdsmostofthestaffofLuckyPeachroastsupontheregular,sowehopetheseaddmuchneededvarietyandspicetoyourlives,astheyhavedoneforours.

Weareadvocatesofahot-and-lazyapproach:onehightemperature,onepan,oneposition,onegreatresult.Furthermore:

CHILLITOUT

Seasonthebirdaheadoftimeandletitsituncoveredinthefridgeovernight.(Kosherchickensaresaltedbeforeyoubuythem,sodon’tsaltthose,justlet’emmellowinthefridgeovernight.)That’snottextbook-easy,notlike“Thirtyminutesafteryouleavethesupermarketyou’llhavedinneronthetable!”easy,butit’snothardeither.IstarteddoingthisafterIfellunderthespellofJudyRodgers’sZuniCafeCookbook.Iviewprocessingthechickenassuchaspartofmygroceryshopping:Themilkneedstogointhedoorofthefridge,theCheeriosgoupinthesnackcabinet,thechickengetsseasonedandputonasheetpansothatitcanbecookedsometimeinthenextonetothreedays.(Someofourfavoritefancyrestaurantsagebirds

likethisforfiveandmoredays,allowingsurfacemoisturetoevaporatetoensureacrispskin.)Tobetrèsunscientificaboutit,thesaltingofthebirdhelpscureit,soyoudon’thavetoworrythatit’sgoingbad,waitingtobecooked.

Canyourushthebirdsfromstoretoseasoningtooventotable?Ofcourse.Andtheywillbegood.Butalittlebitofplanningupsthefinesseofthefinishedproductalot.

TRUSSY=TOOFUSSYWe’reonthewrongsideofhistoryonthisone.Myargumentisthis:Roastingyourbirdwithlegsallakimbomeansmoreskinisexposedtomoredirectheat,whichmeansmoredeliciouslyburnishedflesh.Ilikethat.Plusthere’snoneedtoworryaboutwhenit’salldone:Whenthelegsareready,youknowthebreastmeatistoo.Withtrussedbirds,wefeelliketheinner-thighzonegetsunderattended.We’renotthatkindoflover.

RESTREQUIREDYoumustbudgetintimeforyourbirdtorestafteritcomesoutoftheoven.Itmakesthemeatbetterforlotsofreasonsyoudon’tneedtofullygrasp.Justknowthatthisisn’tawives’tale;thisisthetruth.Thatfifteenminutesmakesforbetter,juicierchicken.

BETTERBIRDSAREWORTHIT

Youdon’tneedtobuysomeanimalwithaPortlandiabackstory,butspendingafewextrabuckstogetabirdthatwasn’trearedinthedeathcampsofacompanylikePerduepaysdividendsatthetable.There’salotofconfusingandunregulatedagriculturalnomenclaturetosortthrough,butthetermthatreallygetsourheartsbeatingfasteris“air-chilled”—poultrythathasbeenprocessedwithaveryminimalamountofextrawater,essentially.Welikethisbecausewelikecrispskin,yes,butalsobecausechickenprocessingwaterisdefinitelytheliquidthatflowsthroughtheriversinournightmares,andwewantaslittletodowithitaspossible.

HOWDOIKNOWWHENIT’SDONE?Youcan/shouldcheckthetemperaturewherethebreastandthighmeetaswellasthethickestpartofthebreast:165°Fisthemagicnumber.Ifyou

wellasthethickestpartofthebreast:165°Fisthemagicnumber.Ifyoudon’thaveathermometer,theskinshouldbemahoganyandthelegsshouldwigglefreelyattheirjoints,likeyoucouldalmosttearthemoff.Youcansniptheskinbetweenthethighandbreastandiftheliquidinsideisclear,youshouldbegoodtogo.Theseindicatorsworkwithnormallyproportionedchickens,notthosethathavebeenunnaturallyre-proportionedbythewillofman.

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Five-SpiceChicken1 wholechicken(3–4lb)2t five-spicepowder1T koshersalt1T neutraloil

Placethechickenonaracksetinsidearimmedbakingsheet.Mixthefive-spicepowderandsalttogetherinasmallbowl.Rubtheseasoning

alloverthechickenandrefrigerate,uncovered,foratleast12hoursandupto2days.

Heattheovento400°F.

Brushthebirdwiththeoil,takingcarenottoruboffanyseasoningontheskin.Roastfor50minutes.Letrestfor15minutesbeforecarving.

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LacqueredRoastChicken1 wholechicken(3–4lb)2T honeyormaltose2T soysauce2t koshersalt

Placethechickenonaracksetinsidearimmedbakingsheet.Stirtogetherthehoneyandsoysauceuntilthehoneydissolves.Usinga

pastrybrush,coatthechickeninathin,evenlayerofthemixture.Letstandatroomtemperaturefor15minutestolettheskindryslightly,thenbrushagainwithalloftheremaininglacquer.Sprinklewiththesaltandrefrigerate,uncovered,foratleast12hoursandupto2days.

Heattheovento400°F.

Roastthechickenfor50minutes.Iftheskindarkenstooquickly,tentwithfoilandcontinueroasting.Letrestfor15minutesbeforecarving.

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SpicyRoastChicken1½t Sichuanpeppercorns1½t blackpeppercorns8 garliccloves,peeled2T koshersalt2T neutraloil1 wholechicken(3–4lbs)

Ifyouhaveamortarandpestle,smashthepeppercornstogetheruntilfinelyground.Addthewholegarlicandsaltandpoundintoasmooth

paste.Stirintheoil.Otherwise,buzzthepeppercornsinaspicegrinder.Finelychopthegarlic,sprinklewithsalt,andcrushintoapastewiththewide,flatsideofyourchef’sknifeorcleaver.Combinethepeppercornsandgarlicpasteinasmallbowlandstirintheoil.

Placethechickenonaracksetinsidearimmedbakingsheet.Smearthespicepastealloverthebird.Refrigerate,uncovered,foratleast12

hoursandupto1day.

Heattheovento400°F.

Roastthechickenfor50minutes.Letrestfor15minutesbeforecarving.

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OyakodonMakes1serving

¼C water¼t hondashi2t sugar2t mirin2t sake1½T soysauce½C thinlyslicedonions1 chickenthigh,cutinto¾"pieces2 largeeggs,lightlybeaten1 scallion,cutinto1"lengths+ cookedrice,forserving

Combinethewater,hondashi,sugar,mirin,sake,soysauce,onion,andchickeninan8-inchnonstickskillet.Setovermediumheatandbringto

aboil.Reducetheheatandsimmeruntilthechickeniscookedthrough,about5minutes.

Pourtheeggsoverthebubblingmixtureandsprinklethescallionsontop.Coverandcookgentlyuntilthemixtureissetbutstillcustardy,a

minuteortwo.Removefromtheheatandletsitaminute.Slideontopofabigbowlofrice.

Oyakodonisoneofthegreatalliancesoftheeggandtheplaceitcamefrom,afundamentalJapanesecomfortfooddish.Itcanbemadewithverylittle—adashofthis,asliverofmeat,acoupleeggs—buttheendresultisgreaterthanthesumofitsparts.

AdoboAngelaDimayugaChefofMissionChineseFoodNewYork

AdoboisacommonpreparationinthePhilippines.It’smeatcookedinvinegarandsoyplusbayleaf,blackpeppercorns,salt,andalotofgarlic.

Alotofthetime,yousearthemeat—adoboisusuallymadewitheitherporkorchicken—thenyoubraiseitout.(Ipreferchickenbecausethechickenskingetssupermeltyinthatsecondstep.)You’rejusthammeringitdown.Whenthemeatisfalling-off-the-bonetender,Iremoveit,reducedowntheliquidinthepan,andthenspoonitoverthechickenandsomericeasasauce.

FilipinosoysauceislessintensethanChinesedarksoyorJapanesetamari.Itfunctionsasacoloringagent,makesthebraisedarker.There’saFilipinobrand—SilverSwan—thatcomesinafoggyweird

bottlethatlookslikeitshouldn’thavefoodinit.That’smygo-to.Ofcoursewithsomethingasfundamentalasadobo,therearealotof

variations.WhatIdescribedisthebasiconeyou’llfindaroundManilaandinPampanga,whichiswheremyfamilyisfrom.ButIrememberonemyolderbrotherfoundinanoldFilipinocookbookthatcalledforyoutoseartheporkorchicken,thenaddcoconutmilkandchiliflakes.Thatone’sgreatbecausethosearejustthingsthatyouhaveatyourhouseandyou’relike,Oh!Ihavethesefrozenchickenlegs.Youdeglazewithcannedcoconutmilk—scrapingthefond(thetastystuffleftinthepanafterbrowningmeat)andthenaddallyourliquidsandbraiseit.Thenifyoulikeheatinityoucanaddchiliestoit.It’sricherandagoodvariationtohaveinthemix.

Thenthere’sacrazy,crazyonethat’slikeasquidadobo.Youtakewholesquid,takethegoopout,cuttheheadintoringsandthenreservetheinksac.Thisisaquickonebecausesquidcooksreallyquickly.Yougetahotpan,searthesquid,andthenaddyoursoysauce,bayleaf,andblackpeppercorn—basicallyeverythingelsebutthevinegar—andyoubreaktheinksacsinthereandletitsimmerfor3minutesonhigh,thenyouaddyourvinegar.It’sthisreallydarksquidinksauce.Oftentimestherewillbesomefreshchiliescutupandaddedattheend.

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ChickenAdoboMakes4servings

1 smallcan(about5oz)coconutmilkor½Cwater1C soysauce(lookforaFilipinobrandcalledSilverSwan)½C distilledwhiteorcanevinegar1t blackpeppercorns3 bayleaves(preferablyfresh)4 garliccloves,smashed1–2 smalldriedredchilies(optional)4 bone-in,skin-onchickenlegs,drumstickandthighseparated+ cookedwhiterice,forserving

Pourthecoconutmilk,soysauce,andvinegarintoalarge,liddedskilletandtossinthepeppercorns,bayleaves,garlic,andchilies(ifusing).

Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Addthechickenpieces,snugglingthemintoasinglelayer;thesauceshouldcomeaboutthree-quartersofthewayupthepieces.(Ifitdoesn’t,addmorewater.)

Returnthesaucetoasimmer,thencoverthepanandreducetheheattomaintainagentlesimmer.Cookthechickenuntilthemeatisvery

tender,rightbeforethestagewhereitfallsoffthebone(youstillwanttobeabletopickthemupwithoutfallingapart,butbarely)andtheskinismelty,45minutesto1hour.

Removethechickenpiecesandcontinuesimmeringthesauce,overmedium-highheat,untilitreducesbyhalfandthesaucethickensa

little/turnssyrupy/coatsaspoon,about5minutes.Theflavorshouldbeconcentratedbutnotoverpoweringlysalty/sour.

Atthispoint,youcaneatthechickenadobo.Oryoucanplacethelegs

4onafoil-linedbakingsheetandbroilthemonhighfor5orsominutes,untilthesauceglazestheskinandbecomesalittlecrusty.Or,youcanstorethesauceandchickenseparatelyforupto3days.Reheatthechickenina400°Fovenorunderthebroiler.Howeveryouservetheadobo,haveplentyofwarmwhitericeonhandtosoakupthesauce.

HainanChickenRiceMakes4to6servings

Chicken1 wholechicken(4lb)12C water+ saltandwhitepepper4 scallions,chopped1 piece(1")freshginger,halvedandsmashed2 garliccloves,smashed

Rice2 shallots4 garliccloves1 piece(1")freshginger1 piece(2")lemongrass2C jasminerice2 bayleaves(usepandanleavesifyoucanfindthem!)

Soup2 garliccloves,crushed1 piece(1")freshginger,sliced2t sugar,ormoretotaste+ koshersaltandwhitepepper

Assembly2T soysauce1T sesameoil+ choppedscallions+ choppedcilantro+ cucumberslices

sambaloelek

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+sambaloelek

+ Ginger-ScallionSauce

Preparethechicken:Trimoffanyvisiblefataroundthecavitiesofthechickenandsetaside.

Fillalargepotwiththewater,saltitlightly,andbringtoaboil.

Meanwhile,rubthechickeninsideandoutwithabout1tablespoonsaltandwhitepeppertotaste.Stuffthescallions,ginger,andgarlicintothe

cavityofthechicken.Useatoothpicktoclosetheskinflapsandsealeverythinginside.

Oncethepotofwaterisboilingaggressively,putthechickeninthepot,breast-sideup.Thechickenshouldbesubmerged.Cookfor10minutes,

thenturntheheatoff.Coverandletthechickensitinthepotwiththeheatofffor45minutes.

Setupalargebowloficeandwater.Removethechicken(savethepoachingliquid)andplungeitimmediatelyintotheicewater.Letthe

birdsitintherefor10minutes,thenremoveanddrycompletely.Itshouldfeellikearubberchicken.Don’tskipthisstep.

Maketherice:Poundtheshallots,garlic,andgingertogetherwithamortarandpestle.Givethelemongrassafewhardsmackswiththe

broadsideofaknife.

Heatthereservedchickenfatinalargepotovermediumheatforacoupleminutestorenderthefat.Addthearomaticpasteand

lemongrasstothepotandcook,stirring,untileverythingisfragrantandbrownedontheedges.Addthericeandstiritaroundthepottocoatitinthechickenfatandaromatics,about2minutes.Add2½cupsofthereservedpoachingliquid(reservetheremaining)andthebayleavestothe

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potandbringtoaboil(ortransfertoaricecookerandcookaccordingtothericecooker’sinstructions).Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerthericeundisturbedfor20minutes.Thenturnofftheheatandletthepotsitfor10minutes.

Makethesoup:Addthegarlic,ginger,andsugartotheremainingpoachingliquidandboilfor5minutes.Seasonwithsalt,whitepepper,

andadditionalsugartotaste.Dilutewithwaterifit’stoosalty.Strain.That’syoursoup.

Breakdownthecookedchickenintowhiteanddarkmeat,slicingthebreastandthighs.

Toassemble:Ricegoesontheplatefirst,thenpiecesofchicken.Drizzlethesoysauceandsesameoiloverthechicken,soeverypiecegetsahitofsoyandsesame,andsprinklescallionsandcilantroall

over.Servewithcucumberslices,sambal,andginger-scallionsauce.

Ladlethesoupintoindividualservingbowlsandstirinsomescallionsandcilantrobeforeserving.

HainanChickenRiceisadishyou’llfindinanySoutheastAsiancountrywherethereareChineseimmigrants.Thebasicmethodisuniversal:Poachachicken,thenusetheliquidtomakerice.InVietnam,it’scalledcomgahainam;inThailand,it’skhaomankai;inCambodia,it’sbaimon.InVietnam,youmightaddfishsauceandlimeleaves;inThailand,wintergourd;inCambodia,friedgarlicchips.TheMalaysianmethodistocookthericewithpandanleavesandlemongrass;it’sservedwithachilisaucethat’ssweet,sour,andfragrantwithcalamansilimejuice.(Herewecallforjarredsambaloelek.)

We’vecalledforbayleavesinthericeinthenameofeasehere,butifyoucanfindthem,pandanleavesaretherealflavor.Pandanisatropicalplantwithleavesthatresemblegiantgrassblades,tastevaguelylikevanilla,andareusedtoflavorkaya(coconutjam),Malaysia’smostbelovedbreakfast

spread.Pandanenhancesthefragranceandsweetnessofjasminerice.(There’sevensciencetobackthisup:Pandanleavesandjasminericecontainanidenticalflavorcompound,2-acetyl-1-pyrroline,thatgivesbothofthemtheircharacteristicsweetaromas.)Andthelemongrassbringsbrightnesstowhatmightotherwisebeamealtoooppressivelyrichwithchickenfat.

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MallChickenMakes4to6servings

⅓C honey¼C ketchup3T soysauce2T applecidervinegarordistilledwhitevinegar2T brownsugar1T mincedgarlic2lbs boneless,skinlesschickenthighsorbreasts,oramix,cutinto1"

pieces+ koshersalt¼C cornstarch1T oil2T sesameseeds,fortopping+ cookedwhiterice,forserving(optional)

Heattheovento375°F.

Whiskthehoney,ketchup,soysauce,vinegar,sugar,andgarlicinabowluntilsmooth.

Placethechickeninanotherbowl,seasonwithalittlesalt,anddustwiththecornstarch,tossingtocoatandshakingofftheexcess.

Heattheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Workinginbatches,searthechicken,formingalightcrust.Transferthechickentoabaking

dish.

Pourthesauceoverthechickenandtosstocoat.Bakeuntilthechicken

5iscookedthroughandthesauceisbubblingandthick,about20minutes.Scatterwithsesameseeds.

Sticky-sweetchicken:Thisiswhat“Asian”foodistosomuchofAmerica,maybewithacouplebroccolifloretsandsomerice(preferablyfried)togowithit.I’mnotmuchforthiskindofdish,buttopretendthat90percentofwhatpeopleorderatChinese-Asianestablishmentsisn’tsomevariationonthiswouldbetodenythetruth.Soinaninclusiveactofrecognition,here’sourgoopytakeonthismotherlessdish—amash-upofallyourfood-courtchickens,betheysweet’n’sour,sesame,orattributedtoGeneralTso—withthedeepfryersubtractedfromtheequationtoincreasetheeaseanddialbackthegrease.

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KoreanGrilledChickenMakes4servings

2T gochujangorsriracha2T honey1T whitemiso¼C water2T applecidervinegar2T grapeseedoil,plusmoreasneeded½t koshersalt4 bone-in,skin-onchickenlegs2 scallions,chopped,forgarnish+ cookedrice,kimchi,ScallionSalad,andlettuceleaves,forserving

Whisktogetherthegochujang,honey,miso,water,vinegar,oil,andsaltinasmallbowluntilsmooth.

Placethechickeninazip-topbagandpourthemarinadeover.Sealthebagandmassagethemarinadeintothelegstomakesuretheyare

coated.Marinateintherefrigeratorforatleast1hourandupto48hours.

Whenreadytocook,heattheovento400°Forsetupagrillforindirectcooking(inacharcoalgrill,heapthecoalsononesideofthe

kettlesothere’sahotzoneandacoolerzone).

Removethechickenfromthemarinade,scrapingoffexcesstoavoidburning.Pourthemarinadeintoabowlandsetaside.

Forroasting:Placethelegsskin-sideuponaracksetinsidearoastingpan.Roastfor45minutes,bastingtwicewithsomeofthereserved

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marinadeduringthelast15minutesofcooking.

Forgrilling:Oilthegratewithapapertowelsoakedinoilandsetthelegsskin-sidedownoverthewarmestpartofthefirefor2to3minutes,thenflipandsearthereverseside.Movetoaslightlycoolerspotonthegrill,cookingindirectlyoverthecoalstoavoidflare-ups,forabout30minutes.Brushwithsomereservedmarinadeandcook,flippingoftenoverthehotcoals,untilacrustformsandthechickeniscookedthrough,about10minuteslonger.Letthechickenrestforafewminutesbeforeserving.

Sprinklewithscallions.Servethechickenwithrice,kimchi,scallionsalad,andlettuceleaves.

ThisrecipeandtheLemongrassChickentakeaclassicsetofcoreflavors(Koreanhere,Vietthere)andusetimeandaplasticbagtoinfusethemintochickenlegs,akawhatshouldbeeverybody’sfavoritepartofthebird.Theresultsareirresistible.

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LemongrassChickenMakes4servings

3 garliccloves,chopped1 shallot,roughlychopped1 smallgreenchili,suchasserranoorjalapeño,chopped¼C choppedlemongrass,fromthemeatypartsof2stalks2T fishsauce2T neutraloil,plusmoreasneeded2t sugar½t koshersalt½t turmeric4 bone-in,skin-onchickenlegs+ limewedges+ cookedrice,herbs,andNuocChamifyouhaveit!

Blendthegarlic,shallot,chili,lemongrass,fishsauce,oil,sugar,salt,andturmericuntilsmooth.

Placethechickeninazip-topbagandpourthemarinadeover.Sealthebagandmassagethemarinadeintothelegstomakesuretheyare

coated.Marinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourandupto48hours.

Whenreadytocook,heattheovento400°Forsetupagrillforindirectcooking(inacharcoalgrill,heapthecoalsononesideofthe

kettlesothere’sahotzoneandacoolerzone).

Removethechickenfromthemarinade,scrapingoffexcesstoavoidburning.Pourthemarinadeintoabowlandsetaside.

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Forroasting:Placethelegsskin-sideuponaracksetinsidearoastingpan.Roastfor45minutes,bastingtwicewithsomeofthereservedmarinadeduringthelast15minutesofcooking.

Forgrilling:Wipethegratewithanoiledpapertowelandsetthelegsskin-sidedownoverthehottestpartofthefirefor2to3minutestobrowntheskin.Flipandsearthereverseside.Movetoaslightlycoolerspotonthegrill,cookingindirectlyoverthecoalstoavoidflare-ups,forabout30minutes.Brushwithsomereservedmarinadeandcook,flippingoftenoverthehotcoals,untilacrustformsandthechickeniscookedthrough,about10minuteslonger.Letthechickenrestforafewminutesbeforeserving.

Servethechickenwithlimewedges,rice,herbs,andnuoccham.

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BraisedChickenWingsMakes2to4servings

1lb chickenwings,separatedintodrumandwingettes1t koshersalt1½t Shaoxingwineorsherry1 piece(2")freshginger,thinlysliced1½t vegetableoil2 garliccloves,sliced2 wholestaranise1 cinnamonstick(3")½t Sichuanpeppercorns1 driedredchili(optional)½C water1½T soysauce1t sugar

Placethechickenwingsinalargebowlandsprinklewiththesalt,wine,andhalfthegingerslices.Letstandfor10minuteswhilegatheringthe

remainingingredients.

Heattheoilinamediumskilletorwokovermedium-highheat.Afteraminute,addthewingsandsearuntilgoldenonallsides,about5

minutes.Withtongs,returnthewingstothebowl.

Addtheremaininggingerandgarlicslicestothepan.Cookforafewsecondsuntilaromatic.Addthestaranise,cinnamon,peppercorns,and

chili(ifusing)andtoastuntilfragrant,about20seconds.Deglazethepanwiththewaterandsoysauce,usingaspatulatoscrapeupanystuck-onbitsfromthebottomofthepan.Returnthewingsandanyaccumulatedjuicestothepanandaddjustenoughwatersothewingsarethree-quarters

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submergedinliquid.

Simmerthewingsovermediumheat,flippingacoupleoftimessotheycookevenly,untiltheyaretender,about25minutes.Stirthesugarinto

thesauce,increasetheheattohigh,andsimmeruntilthesauceisreducedandsyrupy.Thewingscanbebraised1dayahead.Coverandrefrigerate.Rewarmwithasplashofwaterinaskillet.

Pilethewingsonaplatter,drizzlewiththeirsauce,andserve.

Thesearelooselyinspiredby(andphotoanhomageto)myfriendLucasPeterson’smom’schickenwings.Ionlyatethemonce,fromahulkingaluminumroastingpanthatwassoonaftersealedupandbroughttoapotluckforLucas’slittlebrother’shighschoolswimteam.IthinkReginaKwanPeterson’swingswerealittlelessaggressivelyred-flavoredthanthese,butshe’dbeokaywiththem.

Secretadmissionherebetweenfriends:Whenyouhaveeatenallthewings,whichIfindalmosttooeasyallbymyself,therewillbecongealingopaquegoopatthebottomofthevesselyouservethemin.Thisgoopcanbeprofitablysavedanddepositedinapotofriceifyougoinforthatsortofflavorful-repurposing-of-food-garbagetypeofbusiness.

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MisoClaypotChicken(NoClaypot)Makes4servings

2T soysauce1T oystersauce1T Shaoxingwine1T whiteorredmiso½t koshersalt½t sugar½t sesameoil+ whitepepper4 boneless,skin-onchickenthighs,cutinto1"pieces8 freshshiitakemushroomcaps,thinlysliced,or4driedshiitakes,

soaked,stemmed,andthinlysliced1C jasminerice,rinsedanddrained1C chickenstockorwater1 slice(¼"thick)freshginger2 scallions,cutinto1"pieces

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthesoysauce,oystersauce,wine,miso,salt,sugar,sesameoil,andafewgrindsofwhitepepper.Addthe

chickenandmushroomsandfoldtocoat.

Combinetherice,stock,andgingerinaricecookerorasmallDutchoven.

Foraricecooker:Scrapethechickenmixtureandallofthemarinadeontopoftherice.Scatterwithscallions.Cover,startthericecooker,andcookuntilthecycleisdone.Openthelidandcheckthechickenfordoneness.

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Dependingonyourmodel,thechickenmayneedacouplemoreminutestocookthrough.Ifitdoes,setthericecookerforanothercycle,pressstart,andcheckagainin5minutes.

ForaDutchoven:Placeovermediumheatandcookfor5minutes,untiljustsimmering.Reducetheheattolowandcookuntilalltheliquidisabsorbedandthechickeniscookedthrough,about25minutes.Flufftherice,scrapingupthecrustfromthebottomofthepot.

Scoopoutandservebythebowlful,oreatitstraightoutofthericecooker.

Aone-potmealfortheages.ThericeinthebottomofthericecookerwillgoalldarkanddeliciouslikeanAsiansocarratonyou.Ifyou’vegotatimeronyourricecooker,youcouldconceivablydumpitallinthereinthemorningandcomehometohotdinnerrightwhenyouwalkthroughthedoor!

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ChineseChickenSaladMakes4servings

GingerDressing¼C choppedfreshginger¼C ricevinegar2T honey2T sugar1T sesameoil1T soysauce¼t Chinesefive-spicepowder+ whitepepper

Salad8C thinlyslicednapacabbage2C thinlyslicedredcabbage2C peashoots1C choppedscallions1C thinlyslicedsnowpeas2C shreddedcookedchicken½C cilantroleaves1C drainedcannedmandarinoranges½C crispchowmeinnoodles¼C toastedsliveredalmonds2T toastedsesameseeds

Makethedressing:Combinetheginger,vinegar,honey,sugar,sesameoil,soysauce,five-spice,andafewgrindsofwhitepepperinablender

andprocessuntilsmooth.

2Makethesalad:Tossthecabbages,shoots,scallions,snowpeas,chicken,cilantro,anddressingtogetherinalargebowl.Divideamong

platesandtopwiththeoranges,noodles,almonds,andsesameseeds.

MuchliketheMallChicken,thisisaboutasAsianasDavidCarradine.Butifyouwereyounginthe1990sandevervisitedWendy’sortheCheesecakeFactory—orSpagoforthatmatter—orwatchedMartinYanonPBS,youencounteredthisbizarresweet-sourhodgepodgeofnoparticulartraditionatall.Formuchofourstaff,it’sasentimentalfavorite.Wepresentourbesttakeonithere;servewithmarathonrewatchingsofClarissaExplainsItAll,MySo-CalledLife,orwhateverotherculturaleffluviaaccompaniedtheriseofthissalad.

RedRoastPork(charsiu)

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BeefSatayMakes4main-courseor8appetizerservings

1lb flanksteak(oruseporkshoulder!)1T corianderseeds1t cuminseeds¼t whiteorblackpeppercorns1 stalklemongrass1 piece(1")freshginger,sliced1 garlicclove,roughlychopped1t turmeric2t palm,raw,orlightbrownsugar1t koshersalt½C coconutcream(scoopedfromthetopofa15ozcanofcoconut

milk)+ neutraloil+ PeanutSauce,forserving

Slicethebeefagainstthegrainwithasharpknifesetataslightangletothecuttingboardintopiecesthatareaslongasthemeatiswide

(about6inches)andnomorethan¼inchthick,and1½to2incheswide.Placethemeatinanonreactivecontaineroralargezip-topbag.

Toastthecoriander,cumin,andpeppercornsinadryskilletovermediumheatuntilyoucansmellthecumin,about1minute.Transfer

theseedstoalargemortarandletcoolforacoupleofminutes.

Meanwhile,trimanddiscardtherootendofthelemongrass,thenchopthefattest3inchesofthelemongrassstalkintothincoins.

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Grindthetoastedspiceswithapestle.Addthelemongrass,ginger,andgarlicandpoundeverythingtoapaste.Addtheturmeric,sugar,and

saltandpoundsomemore.Stirinthecoconutcream.Spoonthemarinadeoverthebeefandmixtocoat.Coverorsealandrefrigerateovernight.

Soaklongwoodenskewersincoldwaterfor30minutes.Removethemeatfromthemarinade,wipeoffanyexcess,thenthreaditontothe

skewers.

Buildafireinagrillorheatagrillpanovermediumheat—youwantjustenoughheattobrownthemeateffectively,butnotsohotthatthe

marinadewillscorch.Oilthegratewell.Cookthesatay,turningoccasionally,untilbrownedandcrusty,about5minutes.Servewithpeanutsauce.

PeanutSauceMakesascant½cupThesatayhasnose-fillingaromatics;thissimplepeanutsauceanchorsthespiceswithdeepandsaltypeanutiness.

¼C creamypeanutbutter2T hotwater*(plusmoreifneeded)1T soysauce½t mincedgarlic

Stireverythingtogetheruntilfullyincorporated.Addmorewaterbytheteaspoonfultothinthesauce,ifneeded.Asqueezeoflimemightbenice!Tasteandseethegoodnessofthesauce.

*Oryoucouldreplacethewaterwithcoconutmilkfromthecanyoustolethecreamfromforthesatay!

Haveyoueverhadmeatonastick?Didyounoticehowmuchyouenjoyeditandhowmucheveryonearoundyouenjoyeditandwasenjoyingthemselves?That’sbecausemeatonastickisoneofthehigh-watermarksofhumaninvention,uptherewiththewheelandOuijaboards.

Notesonincreasingtheeasinessofthisdish:Youcanalwaysprocessthemarinadeingredientsinafoodprocessororblenderifyourforearmsareweakandyou’reafraidofthemortarandpestle.Noonewilljudgeyouforusingelectricityandlivingonthegridwhenasimpleprimitivetoolwoulddoabetterjobandnotdrainournaturalresources.

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CuminLambMakes2to4servings

2T cuminseeds1T Sichuanpeppercorns1t koshersalt½–1t chiliflakes1lb bonelesslambleg,thinlysliced2T neutraloil2C thinlyslicedwhiteoryellowonions1C slicedscallion,whitesandgreens1T slicedgarlic2T soysauce2T Shaoxingwineordrysherry1C roughlychoppedcilantro

Toastthecuminseedsandpeppercornsinadryskilletovermediumheatuntilfragrant,about1minute.Pulseinaspicegrinderuntil

brokenintopieces,butnotfinelyground.Mixthespiceswiththesaltandchiliflakes.

Tossthemeatinthespicemixture,makingsureeverypiecegetsagood,evendustingofthespices.

Heataverylargeskilletorwokoverhighheat.Addtheoil,andwhenitemitswispsofsmoke,addtheonionsandcook,tossing,until

translucentaroundtheedges,1to2minutes.Scooptheonionsoutofthewokandtransfertoabowl.

Addthelambandanyresidualspicestothepan.Cook,tossing,until

4themeatbeginstobrown,about2minutes.Addthescallions,garlic,soysauce,andwine,andbringtoabrisksimmer.Keeptossingtocoatthelambinthesauce.After2to3minutes,whenthelambisjustcookedthroughandcoatedinsauce,returntheonionstothepanandtosseverythingtogether.Removefromtheheatandfoldinthecilantro.Servehot.

Cuminandlambarecozybedfellowsinanumberofcuisines,butiftheywereputtingtogetherascrapbookoftheirtimesandtravelstogether,Ithinkthey’dchoosethisChinese-stylepreparationasthegoldenestoftheirgoldenyears.Itbringstogethersomanyoldfriends—garlic,onions,Sichuanpeppercorns,driedredchili—but,likeagreatreunionepisodeofasitcom,nobodylingerstoolongortriestostealthespotlight.

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LamburgersMakes4burgers

1lb groundlamb1T groundcumin1t Sichuanpeppercorns,toastedandcrushed½t chiliflakes1½t koshersalt1T neutraloil1 smallredonion,halvedandthinlysliced1 jalapeñoorserranochili,thinlysliced4 potatohamburgerbuns½C cilantroleaves

Combinethelamb,cumin,peppercorns,chiliflakes,andsaltinabowlandmixwithyourhands.Forminto4equalballs.

Heattheoilina12-inchcastironskilletovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandfreshchiliandsearthevegetablesuntillightlybrowned

aroundtheedgesbutstillcrunchy,about3minutes.

Separatethevegetablesinto4equallysizedandwell-spacedmoundsinthepanandtopeachwithaballofmeat.Usingthebackofalarge

spatula,smashthemeatintothevegetables,forminga½-inch-thickpatty.Searthepattyuntilthemeatisopaqueonthebottom¼inch,about3minutes.Flipandseartodesireddoneness,about3minutesformedium.

Transferthepattiestobunsandtopwithcilantro.

ThereareenoughactualChineseanalogstothissandwichtojustifyit,Ithink.(Thesandwichescalledbingcometomind,asdothelambsandwichesthatseemlikethey’rejammedintotheChineseequivalentofpita.)ButbeingAmericanmeansneverapologizingforburgerizingsomething,andthat’swhatwe’vedonehere.Acouplenotestothecook:Youcouldmixthelambwithbeefifyou’reintocommingledmeats.Evena10percentadditionoflambtoaburgermixaddsintrigue.Andifyoumaketheseburgersonagrill,presstheonionsandpeppersintothepattiesandgrillthatsidefirst.

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Thai-StyleLettuceCupsMakes4servings

1lb groundpork,chicken,orturkey2T mincedlemongrass1 garlicclove,grated½t koshersalt1T gratedlimezest3T fishsauce1t sambaloelek6T limejuice(about3limes)2T turbinadosugar1T neutraloil½C thinlyslicedredonion½C roughlychoppedcilantro(leavesandstems)½C roughlychoppedmintleaves1 headbutterorromainelettuceor½headwhitecabbage,leaves

separatedandwashed

Combinethemeat,lemongrass,garlic,salt,limezest,1tablespoonofthefishsauce,and½teaspoonofthesambalinamediumbowl.Mix

withyourhandsoraspatulauntilthoroughlycombined.Coverandchilluntilreadytouse.

Whisktogetherthelimejuice,sugar,andremaining2tablespoonsfishsauceand½teaspoonsambaluntilthesugardissolves.Setthesauce

aside.

Heattheoilinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Addthemeatmixtureandcook,stirringandchoppingitintofinepieceswithametal

spatulaorwoodenspoon,untilthemeatisjustcookedthrough,5to6

minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandfoldintheonion,cilantro,andmint.Scoopontoaplateorbowlanddrizzlewiththesauce.Servewithlettuceorcabbageleaves.

Iwantedtoputalarbinthisbook—larbbeingthespicy,acidic,flavor-bombofanIsansaladthatisalltheragethesedaysintheever-expandingAmericanawarenessofThaicookery.Buttherewereafewthingsthatwecouldn’taskyoutodointhetruespiritofease;wecouldn’tcalltheresultslarbandstilllookatourselvesinthemirrorinthemorning.(It’sweirdtothinkaboutawholegroupofpeoplegettingupandlookingatthemselvesinthemirror,butthat’showitisatLuckyPeach—wealllivetogetherandworkinaloftthat’skindofliketheoneinthefirstseasonofTheRealWorld.)

Sothisdish,whichisnotlarb,islarb-like,andpleasinglyso.Wetriedmakingitwithturkeytoseeifeventhemostpointlessofgroundmeatscouldbeelevatedbythistreatment,andwefoundittowork.Butgiventhechoice,porkisthechamp.

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Lion’sHeadMeatballsMakes4servings

1lb groundpork(preferablyveryfatty;haveyourbutchergrindporkbelly,forexample)

1C choppedscallions2T soysauce1T sugar1T Shaoxingwine1T mincedgarlic1T mincedfreshginger1t koshersalt½t sesameoil1 largeegg2T cornstarch+ neutraloil1lb napacabbageorbokchoy,leavesseparated,choppedifdesired2C chickenbroth+ whitepepper+ cookedricenoodlesorrice,forserving

Puttheporkinalargebowlandbreakitupwithyourhands.Addthescallions,soysauce,sugar,wine,garlic,ginger,salt,andsesameoiland

workthemixturetocombine.Addtheeggandcornstarchandvigorouslymix,pickingupandslappingthemixturebackintothebowlafewtimestocreateatackytexture.Rollthemeatintoeight2-inchballs.

Heat1tablespoonofoilinaDutchovenandaddenoughmeatballstofitcomfortablyinasinglelayer.Searthemuntilbrownedallover,

about2minutesperside.Repeatwithanyremainingmeatballs.Removethepanfromtheheatandwipeoutthepan.

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Linethepanwiththecabbageorbokchoy,arrangethemeatballsinasnugsinglelayerontop,andaddbrothtocomewithin¼inchofthe

topsofthemeatballs.Coverthepotandsetovermediumheat.Gentlysimmeruntilthegreensaretenderandthemeatballsarecookedthrough,20to30minutes.Seasontotastewithwhitepepperandserveoverricenoodlesorwithsteamedrice.

Thedishissortofastewbutlighter:Themeatballs,greens,andalittlebrothareallspoonedoverricenoodles.It’scommonlyknownaslion’sheadmeatballs,becausethewavygreensornoodlesringingthemeatballslooklike…alion’smane?Maybeifyousquint.

InChinese,they’recalledshihtzutou,whichthenon-Chinesespeakersamonguscan’thelpbutseeasshihtzutou,somaybethey’rereallysupposedtolooklikelittlelapdogheads.Eveniftheyaretaxonomicallyambiguous,theyareinarguablygoodeating.

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RedRoastPorkMakes4to8servings

¼C hoisinsauce¼C soysauce¼C honey¼C Shaoxingwineordrysherry1t Chinesefive-spicepowder3lbs bonelessporkshoulder

Whiskthehoisin,soysauce,honey,wine,andfive-spicetogetherinasmallbowl.Transferthemarinadetoazip-topbag.

Forquick-cooking,crusty,slightlychewycharsiu:Slicetheshoulderinto½-inch-thickslabs,thenslicetheslabsinto2-inch-longstrips.Addtothemarinadeandmarinateintherefrigeratorforatleast12hoursandupto48hours.

Heattheovento400°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithfoil.

Removetheporkfromthemarinade,scrapingoffanyexcess.Laytheporkonacoolingrackorroastingracksetonthelinedbakingsheet.Roastfor15minutes,thenflipandroastuntilthefatissizzlingand

theporkiscookedthrough,10to15minuteslonger.Letrestacoupleminutesbeforeslicingandserving.

Forshreddy,meltyglazedporkshoulder:Leavethemeatinonepiece,placeitinthebagwiththemarinade,andmarinateintherefrigeratorforatleast24hoursandupto48hours.Removefromtherefrigerator1hourbeforeroasting.

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Heattheovento300°F.

Settheporkinaroastingpan,reservingthemarinadeforbasting.Roasttheporkuntilthemeatiscompletelytender,4to5hours,thenbastewithsomeofthereservedmarinade.Continueroastingand

bastingevery10minutesorsountiltheporkiscoatedinathick,shinyglaze,about1hourlonger.Removefromtheovenandletrest20minutesbeforedevouring.

Alongwithroastduckandcracklyskinnedpork,charsiu—sweet,sticky,brick-redroastpork—isafundamentalpartofCantonesefood,whetherit’sstuffedintopillowysteamedbunsorslicedthinontopofnoodles.Theresultsofthischarsiurecipeareworthyofhangingfromametalhookinaneon-litwindowinChinatown.Cuttheporkshoulderintostripsforquickcookingandtomaximizeroasty,crusty,glazybits,orleaveitwholetomakeaglazedroastyoucanpullapartatthedinnertable.WithriceandoneofthewarmvegetablesfromEatYourGreens,it’safeast.

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FishSauceSpareribsMakes4to6servings

2 racksspareribs(about5lbs;“St.Louisstyle”ifavailable)¾C fishsauce1C sugar1T koshersalt½C water2T limejuice2T mincedfreshginger2T mincedgarlic2t sambaloelek1t freshlygroundblackpepper

Heattheovento350°F.Layalargesheetoffoilandthenalargesheetofparchmentpaperoneachof2rimmedbakingsheets.(You’regoing

tobewrappingeachrackwiththemtocreateapacket,somakesurethesheetsarelongenough.)

Stripthepaperymembranefromthebonesideoftheribs,ifyourbutcherhasn’tdonethisalready.Layeachrackofribsonitsown

bakingsheet.

Whisktogether¼cupofthefishsauceand¼cupofthesugar.Rubthemixtureallovertheribsandarrangebone-sidedownonthe

parchment.Wrapwiththeparchmentandfoil,crimpingthefoilatthetop.

Baketheribsuntiltenderbutnotfallingapart,about90minutes.Removefromtheovenandletrestinthefoilfor30minutes.Unwrap

theribsandpouranypanjuicesintoasmallbowl.Atthispoint,theribscanberewrappedinfoilandrefrigeratedupto4days.Storethepanjuices

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inanairtightcontainer.

Iftheribshavebeenchilled,setthemonabakingsheet(stillinthefoil)andreheatina350°Fovenfor20minutes.

Meanwhile,combinethesalt,theremaining¾cupsugar,andthewaterinamediumsaucepansetovermedium-highheat.Addacoupledrops

ofthelimejuiceandcook,swirlingthepanoccasionallyuntilthesyrupishomogeneouslylightamber,about12minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthegingerandgarlic,swirlingthepan(asopposedtostirringwithaspoon,whichwillgettrappedinthecaramel)togentlycombinethearomatics.Addtheremaininglimejuiceand½cupfishsauce,sambal,andpepperand,oncethebubblingsubsides,stirtocombine.Thefishsaucecaramelcanbecoveredandchilledupto2weeks.

Heattheovento500°F.Lineabakingsheetwithfoil.

Stirthereservedpanjuicesintothefishsaucecaramel.Arrangetheribsmeat-sideuponthebakingsheetandbrushsomeofthecaramel

ontotheribs.Roastfor5minutes,thenbastewithmorecaramel.Continueroastingandbastinguntilmostofthecaramelisusedupandtheribshaveasticky,shinyglaze,about15minutes.Removefromtheovenandcontinuetobasteforafewminutes,untilthecrustontheribscoolsandthickensslightly.Servewithplentyofnapkins.

Thesestickyribsareflypaperforrib-lovers,likeaspecialatSizzleroranyotherchainrestaurantthatkeepstherib-loverinmind.Rib-lovers:Youareinourminds.Andsoontheseribscanbeinsideyou.Makethemforyourdad,makethemforyourbrother-in-law.Maketheminthesummerandyou’llbethehitoftheblockparty.

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MacanesePorkChopBunMakes2sandwiches

2 bone-inporkchops(½"thick,about6ozeach)1t mincedgarlic+ koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper+ neutraloil+ butter,softened2 Portugueserolls,split

Whacktheporkchopsacoupleoftimeswithamallet,acleaver,orthebottomofaheavysaucepantotenderizeandflattenslightly.Rubwith

thegarlicandseasonliberallywithsaltandpepper.Coverandmarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourandpreferablyovernight.

Heat¼inchofoilinalargeheavyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilitripples.Laytheporkchopsinthepanandpresstheboneintothe

hotoil,lettingitsizzleforafewseconds.Frythechopsuntiltheyarecookedthroughandbothsidesaregolden,about3minutesperside.Testthedonenessbypokingthecenterofthechop:Themeatshouldbouncebackandsomejuiceswillpoolonthesurface.Removetheporkfromthepanandletthechopsrest,stackedontopofeachother,foracoupleofminutes.

Pourtheoiloutoftheskilletandwipeclean.Returntomedium-lowheat.Spreadalittlesoftbutteronthecutsidesoftherolls.Toastthe

butteredbreadintheskilletuntilevenlybrowned.Sandwichtheporkchopsinthetoastedrollsandserveimmediately.Chomp,thennibbleuntilyouareleftwithjustabone.

Idon’thateporkchops.Howcouldsomeonehatepartofthepig?Evenitsearsaredelicious.Butporkchopsgetdrysoeasily—anddryporkissadnessinedibleform.Butnotinthesesandwiches,anemblematicMacanesestreetfood:Themeatstaysmoistandbenefitsfromalubricatinglayerofsoftenedbutter,andanyjuicesthatrunoutareabsorbedintothebread.Bytheway,Portugueserolls,whicharesoftbutnottrashy,areworthtrackingdownforthesandwich.

Pan-RoastedRibEyewithMs.Kwok’sBlackPepperSauceMakes2to4servings

Ms.Kwok’sblackpeppersauce1T neutraloil2t freshlycrackedblackpepper⅓C water¼C soysauce2t sugar+ koshersalt2t cornstarchblendedwith1Twater

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Ribeye1 ribeye(1½"thick,about2lbs)2t koshersalt1T neutraloil

Maketheblackpeppersauce:Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Addthepepperandtoastintheoil,swirlingconstantly,

untilthewhiteinsidesofthepeppercornpiecesaregoldenbrown.(Thisisacriticalstageinflavordevelopment.Don’tbeadingus.Donotskipthisstep!)

Stirinthewater,soysauce,andsugar.Bringtoaboilandtasteit.Like,actuallytasteit.Addapinchofsaltifneeded,ordilutethesauce

withasplashofwaterifitstrikesyouassalty.Maybeitneedsanotherpinchofsugar?Thesauceshouldbespicyandatouchsweet.Oncetheseasoningiscorrect,whiskinthecornstarchmixtureandreturnittoaboil.Boilfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheat.Thesaucewillkeepfor1weekinthefridge.Rewarmbeforeserving.

Cooktheribeye:Heattheovento400°F.

Seasonthesteakwiththesalt.Heattheoilinalargecastironskilletoverhighheat.Whenawispofsmokerisesfromthepan,laythesteak

in,andsearuntilabrowncrustforms,about2minutes.Flipandsear2minuteslonger.Pickupthesteakwithyourtongsandcarefullyrolltheedgeofthesteakinthepan,renderingthefatcap.Yoursteakshouldbebrownedandcrustyallover.Laythesteakbackdownonabroadsideandcarefullytransferthepantotheoven.

Roast,flippinghalfwaythrough,untiltheinternaltemperaturereaches120°F,about8minutestotal.Letitrestforatleast10minutesbefore

carvingintothinslices.ServewithMs.Kwok’sblackpeppersauce.

Ifthisrecipewereasong,itwouldbeoneofthoseJay-Zversesthatjustbragsendlesslyabouthowawesomeandrichitis.Andthosefacts,whetherabouthimorthismeat,checkout.

Mary-FrancesHeck,whohelpedcreatetherecipesinthisbookfromideasscribbledonnapkinsandfamilyrecipesstoredinourmustybrainbuckets,scoredthissaucerecipefromherfriendBary’smom,Ms.CathyKwok,whobroughtitwithherfromHongKongtoMassachusetts.

Whetherornotyoudressthesteaklikewedohere,thisisalsoagreattechniqueforcookingsteakathomeandgettingitrighteverytime.Also,theAsianwedgesaladisadeadsimpleandperfectcompaniontoafatpieceofmeatlikethis.

Note:Cookingasteakofthissizetomedium-raretakes15minutesofactivecookingtime.Don’tskimponthesearbecauseyouthinkyouneedtoroastitforacertainlengthoftime.Setatimerfor15minutes.Startitwhenthesteakhitsthepan.Searitproperly,thenroastitfortheremainderofthe15minutes,flippingabouthalfwaythrough.Ifyourpanishotandovenpreheated,thetimingwillwork.

TodMunFishCakesMakes2main-courseor4appetizerservings

Fishcakes12oz freshcodorothermildwhitefish,cutinto1"pieces¼C redcurrypaste1 largeegg1T fishsauce1T sugar½t koshersalt

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Sauce½C Thaisweetchilisauce1C choppedseededcucumber2T choppedroastedunsaltedpeanuts2T mincedcilantro1t sambaloelek(optional)+ limejuiceorsalt+ neutraloil+ limewedges,forserving

Makethefishcakes:Pulsethefish,currypaste,egg,fishsauce,sugar,andsaltinafoodprocessoruntilnearlysmoothandafewpea-size

piecesoffishremain.Coverandrefrigerateuntilreadytocook,upto24hours.

Meanwhile,makethesauce:Mixtogetherthechilisauce,cucumber,peanuts,cilantro,andsambal(ifusing).Letstand15minutesforthe

cucumberstoweepsomeoftheirjuices.Stirandadjusttheseasoningwithasqueezeoflimeorpinchofsalt.

Whenyou’rereadytofrythefishcakes,heat⅓inchoilinalargeheavyskillet.Roll2tablespoonsofthefishmixtureintoaballandpat

itintoa⅓-inch-thickcake.Workinginbatches,frythecakes,flippingonce,untilgoldenandalittlepuffed,about4minutesperside.Blotonpapertowelsandservehot,withthesauceandlimewedges.

Thisisoneofthosekick-off-the-mealdishesIalwaysorderatThaiplaces(it’sastapleoffirst-waveandcentralThairestaurantsoftheUnitedStates,lesscommonatyourIsanandnorthernThaispots).Whenthatmixofkaffirlimefromthecurrypasteinthefishcakeandcrispcucumberinthesweet-and-spicygoogettomingling,Ithinkwarmself-congratulatorythoughts.Whatagooddish.Whatagoodorder.Aren’twegladwecame

here?Lifeisgood.ThenthepadThaiisvacantandblandandittakesforevertogethomeonthetrainandlifegoesbacktobeingtheparadeofminorinsultsitusuallyis.

Sowhynotsubtracttheguessworkandmakeitathome?It’sshamefullyeasy.Wehaveomittedkaffirlimefromtheingredientlistheresinceit’shardtofind(lookinthefreezercaseataSoutheastAsiangrocerystoreifyouhaveaccesstoone)andsinceit’susuallyintheredcurrypasteanyway.Ifyou’vegotit,addaleaftothepurée.

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Ms.VoThiHuong’sGarlicShrimpMakes4servings

3T neutraloil6 garliccloves,roughlychopped1 largeshallot,roughlychopped2 bunches(12–14)scallions,cutinto2"lengths1lb largeshrimp,shelledanddeveined1T srirachasauce(ormoretotaste)2T Kewpiemayonnaise2T soysauce+ cookedjasminerice,forserving

Heattheoilinawokovermedium-highheat.Afteraminute,addthegarlic,shallot,andscallionsandstir-fryfor1minute.

Addtheshrimptothepanandstir-fryuntiltheshrimparenolongertranslucentandbeginningtobrowninspots,2to3minutes.

Brisklystirinthesriracha,mayonnaise,andsoysauce.Tosstobringthesauceelementstogetherandcoattheshrimpandvegetables.

Removefromtheheatandservehotwithrice.

WriterLaurieWooleverbroughtthisrecipebacktousfromthewhite-sandbeachesofHue,Vietnam,wherealadynamedMs.VoThiHuongstir-friesfreshshrimplikethese.Shrimpinhotmayonnaisemaysoundbadwhenyoucallitthat,butthetruthisintheeating.Servewithwhitericeandcoldbeer.

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Miso-RoastedFishMakes4servings

¼C mirin¼C sake½C whitemiso¼C sugar2lbs fishfillets(preferablyskinon),pinbonesremoved+ neutraloil

Pourthemirinandsakeintoasmallsaucepanandbringtoaboil.Boilfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheatandwhiskinthemiso.This

willtakesomeeffortanddetermination,butmakesurethemixtureiscompletelysmoothbeforestirringinthesugar.Returntotheheatandstiruntilthesugarisdissolvedandthemixtureishomogenous.Letthemarinadecool.Itwillkeepinthefridgeforacoupleofweeks.

Combinethecooledmarinadewiththefishfilletsinazip-topbag.Anyamountofmarinationfrom1to72hoursisokay(it’sstillsafeafter

that,it’sjustthatthemarinadecompletelytakesover).We’vefound48hoursinthefridgetobethesweetspot.

Heattheovento400°F.

Removethefishfromthemarinade;wipeoffanddiscardanyexcess.Heatafewdropsofoilinanovenproofskillet.Workinginbatchesif

necessarytonotcrowdthepan,searthefishfilletsflesh-sidedownuntilbrownedandthemisocrustisset,1to2minutes.Flipthemseared-sideupandslideintotheoven.

Roastuntilthefishisopaqueandflaky,6to10minutesdependingon

5 thethicknessofthefillets.Aparingknifeorskewershouldmeetnoresistancewhenthefleshispierced.Letthefishrestforaminute(orlonger,it’sperfectlygoodatroomtemperature)andserve.

Thishasbeenmygo-tomoveforwhenIseefishIwanttoeatbutIalreadyhaveotherdinnerplansordinnersplanned.Igrabthefishfromthefarmers’market,throwtheminabagwiththismarinade,andwhenTuesdaynightrollsaroundandIthink,What’sfordinner?,thefishspeaksupandsays,“Me.”ExceptforthefishisnottalkingbecauseIdon’tliveinPee-wee’sPlayhouseanditdoesn’thaveamouthbecauseit’safilletsohowwouldittalkanyway?

Iusuallydothiswithwhite-fleshedfishlikecodorblackbass,becausethey’reavailablewhereIlive,andbecausethemostfamousrenditionofthisfairlyclassicJapanesepreparationisdonewithfirm,white-fleshedfishbyNobuMatsuhisa.Butinalow-riskscientifictrial,wefoundthatit’sanexceedinglygoodwaytocookallkindsoffish:oily,bony,big,orotherwise.

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Coco-CurriedMusselsMakes2to4servings

1T neutraloil3T Thaigreencurrypaste1 can(14oz)coconutmilk1T palm,raw,orlightbrownsugar2lbs mussels,rinsed+ koshersalt1T fishsauce½C roughlychoppedcilantro1 smallgreenchili,suchasserranoorjalapeño,thinlysliced+ limewedges,forsqueezing+ crustybaguette,forserving

HeattheoilinaliddedDutchovenor4-quartsaucepanovermediumheat.Addthecurrypasteandfryuntilveryfragrant,about1minute.

Stirinthecoconutmilkandsugarandbringtoasimmer.

Addthemusselsandapinchofsalt,foldingonceortwicetocoatandcovertightlywithalid.Simmeruntilthemusselshaveopened,6to8

minutes.Discardanymusselsthatdonotopen.

Stirinthefishsauceandsprinklewithcilantroandchili.Servewithlimewedgesforsqueezingandbreadforsoppingup.

Mantrasfor(These)MusselsMusselsarecheapandeasy.Musselsarecheapandeasy.Sometimescannedfoodisyourfriend.Sometimescannedfoodisyourfriend.

Sometimescannedfoodisyourfriend.Apileofherbs,chilies,andcitrusaddsvigor.Apileofherbs,chilies,andcitrusaddsvigor.Don’tforgetthebaguette!Don’tforgetthebaguette!

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ClamswithLemongrassinaVietnameseStyleMakes2servings

24 littleneckclams½C koshersalt1T oil2 stalkslemongrass,whackedwiththebroadsideofaknife½C slicedshallots½C pieces(2")celery2 garliccloves,sliced4 slices(¼"thick)freshginger6 smalldriedredchilies2C water1 lemon,quarteredandthinlysliced1 plumtomato,chopped(about½C)¼C pieces(1")cilantrostems1T fishsauce,plusmoreasneeded1t sambaloelek1t palm,raw,orlightbrownsugar,plusmoreasneeded+ crustybaguette,forserving

Topurgetheclams,rinsethem,thensubmergeinalargebowlofwater.Addthesalt.Refrigerateforatleast1hour.Removetheclams

fromthebrineandrinse.Setaside.

HeattheoilinalargesaucepanormediumDutchovenovermediumheat.Addthelemongrass,shallots,celery,garlic,ginger,andchiliesand

sweatuntilslightlysoftened,2to3minutes.

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Increasetheheattohigh,foldintheclams,andaddthewater.Coverandsimmeruntiltheclamsopen,6to8minutes.Discardanyclams

thatdonotopen.

Stirinthelemon,tomato,cilantrostems,fishsauce,sambal,andsugar.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningwithadditionalfishsauceorsugar.

Servehot,withbaguette.

Threethingsarerightaboutthisdish:theinterplayofbrinyclamsandtheethereal-fairyflavoroflemongrass;thegentlebutassuredacidityimpartedbythetomatoesandlime;thefactthatit’sanexcusetoeatawholebaguettesoakedinthatdeliciousbroth.

KungPaoShrimpMakes2to4servings

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Sauce2T water1T soysauce1T Shaoxingwine1T Chinkiangvinegar1T sugar1t sesameoil1t cornstarch+ pinchofwhitepepper

Stir-fry3T neutraloil10 smalldriedredchilies1t Sichuanpeppercorns2t mincedgarlic2t mincedfreshginger½ redbellpepper,cutinto½"pieces½ greenbellpepper,cutinto½"pieces2 celerystalks,cutinto½"pieces1lb largeshrimp,shelledanddeveined+ koshersalt2 scallions,cutinto1"pieces½C roastedunsaltedpeanuts+ cookedrice,forserving

Makethesauce:Whisktogetherthesauceingredientsinasmallbowluntilthecornstarchisdissolved.Setaside.

Makethestir-fry:Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinawokoverhighheat.Addthechiliesandpeppercornsandstir-fryuntiltheypuffandbrown

slightly,about5seconds.Addthegarlic,ginger,andbellpeppersandstir-fryuntilthepeppersarebrownedinspotsandcrisp-tender,about1minute.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthemixturetoaplate.Addthecelerytothe

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panandstir-fryuntilheatedthroughandcharredinspots,about2minutes.Transfertotheplatewiththepeppers.

Addtheremaining1tablespoonoiltothewok.Seasontheshrimpwithsaltandaddtothewok.Stir-fryuntilalmostcookedthrough,about3

minutes.Returnthepeppers,celery,andspicestothewok.Addthescallionsandpeanutsandtosstocombineeverything.Addthesauceandcook,stirring,untilitbubblesandthickens.Whenthesauceisthickandtheshrimparecookedthrough,removefromtheheat.Servewithrice.

KungPao(orgungbao)dishesareacelebrationoftexture,acascadeofcrunchy,slippery,andcrispthatkeepseverybiteinteresting.We’vemadetwotweakstotheclassic:Wedialedtheheatallthewaydownandswappedoutthemorecommonchickenforshrimp.Theshrimpsubstitutionwestandby;thechiliheatisyourcallandveryeasytorampup.

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SquidandGrapefruitSaladMakes2main-coursesalads

2T fishsauce1T sugar,plusmoretotaste1t sambaloelek1 garlicclove,minced2 freshredchilies,sliced1 lime,halved1 largepinkgrapefruit8oz cleanedsquid,bodiesscored,tentaclesquarteredlengthwise¼C looselypackedmintleaves+ cookedrice(preferablystickyrice),forserving

Bringamediumpotofwatertoaboil.

Meanwhile,stirtogetherthefishsauce,sugar,sambal,chilies,andgarlicinamediumbowluntilthesugardissolves.Squeezeinthejuice

ofalimehalf.Cuttheotherlimehalfintowedgesforserving.

Cutoffthepeelandpithofthegrapefruit.Workingoverabowl,slicebetweenthegrapefruit’smembranes,releasingthesegmentsintothe

bowl.Onceallofthesegmentsarefree,squeezethemembranestoreleasejuicesintothebowl.

Blanchthesquidintheboilingwateruntilitcurlsandturnsopaque,about30seconds.Removewithaspiderandtransfertothebowlwith

thefishsaucevinaigrette.Tosstocoatandletcoolslightly.

Oncethesquidcools,drainthegrapefruitsegmentsfromthejuiceand

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addtothesquid,breakingupanylargepiecesintosmallerbites.Tosseverythinginthevinaigrette,addingmoregrapefruitjuiceorsugarasneededtobalancethesweet-sourness.

Tearthemintintothebowlwiththesquidandtoss.Servewithriceandaddthelimewedges.

LaurieWooleverbroughtbackthisdishfromthesametriptoVietnamthatgaveusthesaucy,guilty-pleasuregarlicshrimp.Thissaladisthatdish’sdiametricopposite:sharp,clean,andacidic.Originallymadewiththegiantgrapefruit-likepomelofruit,thisseafood-citruscomboisoftenfoundinSoutheastAsia:yumsomo,thanhtra,goibuoitomthit.

Ifyou’vegotagrill,grillthewholesquidoveranungodlyhotfireuntilit’scharredandjustcooked,thenchopitupandtossitinthevinaigretteinstep4.

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SteamedWholeFish,TwoSaucesMakes2servings

1 wholewhite-fleshedfish(about1¼lbs),scaled,gutted,andrinsed+ SAUCE(recipesfollow)+ cookedrice,forserving

Patthefishdry.HaveyourSAUCEingredientsattheready.

Bring2inchesofwatertoaboilinawokorpotfittedwithasteamer.Laythefishonyourchoiceofsteamercontraptionandcoverthewok

orpanwithatight-fittinglid.Steamfor8minutes.Transferthefishtoaservingplatter.

Dumpoutthewaterandwipeyourwokclean.PrepareyourchosenSAUCErecipe.Servewithplentyofrice.

ThisrecipefollowswhatIthinkofastheCantonese-seafood-restaurantprinciple:Youpickthefreshestfish,cookitsimply,andsauceitsimply.

PICKITMakethisdishwhenyouhavegreatwholefishavailableroutinelyorbecausesomethingatthefishcounterwaslookingveryfreshlykilled.

COOKITIrecommendsteaminghere,butyoucouldabsolutelybakethefishonacoolingracksetonabakingsheetat400°Ffor15-ishminutes,orgrillit.

SAUCEITHerearetwosaucesIparticularlylikeoverwholefish,butthesky’sthelimit.

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TripleS:Soy-SauceSauce2T neutraloil2T juliennedfreshginger¼C soysauce2T Shaoxingwine2T brownsugar¼t sesameoil⅛t whitepepper2T water¼C slicedscallions

Arrangethegingeronthecookedfish.Heattheneutraloilinthewokoverhighheatuntilitsmokes.Pourthehotoiloverthefish.

Everythingshouldsizzleandthefish’sskinwilltightenandglisten.

Returnthewoktotheflameandpourinthesoysauceandwine.Stirinthesugar,sesameoil,pepper,andwater.Whenitbubbles,pourthe

sauceoverthefishandsprinklewiththescallions.

BlackBeanSauce2T neutraloil2T mincedgarlic2T mincedfreshginger2T fermentedblackbeans,rinsed¼C soysauce2T Shaoxingwine2T water2T sugar

Heattheneutraloilinthewokoverhighheatuntilitsmokes.Pourthe

1

2hotoiloverthefish.Thefish’sskinwilltightenandglisten.

Returnthewoktotheflameandaddthegarlic,ginger,andblackbeansandstir-fryfor15seconds.Addthesoysauce,wine,water,andsugar

andbringtoaboil.Pouroverthefish.

Servethesesauceswithalotofjasminericeandoneofthewarmvegetables.

1

2

DannyBowien’sGinger-ScallionSauceMakesabout½cup

1T grapeseedorotherneutraloil1C thinlyslicedscallions1C finelymincedfreshginger1½t koshersalt1½T fishsauce1t turbinadosugar¼t whitepepper

Heattheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheatuntiltheoilemitswispsofsmoke.Addthescallionsandgingertothepanandimmediatelyremove

fromtheheat,stirringuntilnolongersizzling.

Transferthewiltedscallionsandgingertoasmallbowlandseasonwiththesalt,fishsauce,sugar,andwhitepepper.Ginger-scallionsauce

keeps,coveredandrefrigerated,forupto2days.

DaveChang’sGinger-ScallionSauceMakesabout1cup

1¼C thinlyslicedscallions¼C finelymincedfreshginger2T grapeseedorotherneutraloil

soysauce

1t soysauce

½t sherryvinegar½t koshersalt

Mixtogetherthescallions,ginger,oil,soysauce,vinegar,andsaltinabowl.Tasteandcheckforsalt,addingmoreifneeded.Thoughit’sbestafter15or20minutesofsitting,theginger-scallionsauceisgoodfromtheminuteit’sstirredtogetheruptoadayortwointhefridge.Useasdirected,orapplyasneeded.

Theusesforginger-scallionsaucearelimitedonlybyimaginationortheouterlimitsofdesire:Ifyouboilnoodlesandtosstheminit,youhavedinner.Itmakesleftovervegetablesandabowlofricesparklelikesomethingconcoctedwithintention.Roastchickenpinesforit;bakedfishcan’tgetenough.

Inmakingit,therearenearlyasmanymethodsastherearecooks.I’vesingledouttwohere,becausetheyrepresentdifferentendsofthespectrum.Chang’sissimpleandraw,forlackofabetterterm.Manyversionsofthesaucecallforheatingtheoilbeforeaddingittothearomatics(notabadidea)orbrieflycookingthearomaticsfirst(ifyou’reinclined,tryBowien’s).Theresultisabold,direct,two-fistedsaucethatstandsoutinfinisheddishes.IcoppedDannyBowien’sginger-scallionsaucerecipewhenheshowedmehowtomakethelambdumplingsthatMissionChineseFoodperiodicallyputsonitsmenu—theginger-scallionsaucegoesinthedumplingsasoneofthemanycomponentsofthedish.Hisisslightlymorecomplicatedtomake(byameasureofafewminutes)andmorecomplexasafinishedsauce:salty,umami,asweetfinish.Ononehand,makingginger-scallionsaucejusttoshoveitinsomedumplingsfeltlikealotofwork—tworecipes,oneproduct.Butthen,likethekidleaningagainstthebookcasethatturnsouttobetheentrancetothesecretundergroundmaze,itmademethink:Notonlycanyouputginger-scallionsauceonthings,youcanputitinthings.LikeifyouhadsomeleftoverGSsaucearound,maybethatwoulddoallthedumpling-seasoningwork—and,sureenough,itdid!YoucanmaketheDollarDumplingswithnothingmorethan3leftovertablespoonsofsauce.Oryoucanstiracouplespoonfulsintomayonnaiseandpracticallyopen

yourownartisanalsandwichshopwithwhatevercreationyouputiton.

Carrot-GingerDressingMakes1cup

1 piece(2")freshginger,sliced1 smallcarrot,roughlychopped(about¼C)¼C roughlychoppedonion2T ricevinegar1T soysauce½t sugar1t sesameoil¼C vegetableoil+ koshersalt

Withthemotorrunning,tossthegingerandcarrotintoablender.Addtheonion,vinegar,soysauce,andsugar,andprocessuntilsmooth.Slowlydrizzleinthesesameoilandvegetableoilandblenduntilemulsified.Seasonlightlywithsalt.Thedressingwillkeep,coveredandrefrigerated,for1week.

YoumightknowthisdressingfromsuchplacesasBenihanaorthevaguelyAsian,mainlyvegetarianrestauranteverybodystartedgoingtofreshmanyearofcollege.Itrules.Makingachoppedsaladwithabunchofsupermarketvegetablesthatlookliketheyweresprungfromthesoilat

Chernobyl?Thisdressing’sgotyoucovered.Itworksasadip,too,forblanchedorrawvegetables.Jokinglywesaidthatyoucouldturnanyvegetableintosaladsimplybyanointingitwithahitoftheorangestuff,andwhenwepouredsomeontothewedgeofnapacabbageinthephotoofPan-RoastedRibEye,itturnedouttobetrue:napacabbage+thissaladdressing=verydelicious.Thepossibilitiesareendless.

OctoVinaigretteMakes1cup

2T finelychoppedgarlic2T choppedfreshginger¼t chiliflakes,ormoretotaste¼C ricevinegar¼C soysauce2T neutraloil¼t sesameoil1½T sugar+ freshlygroundblackpepper

Combinethegarlic,ginger,chiliflakes,vinegar,soysauce,grapeseedoil,sesameoil,sugar,andafewturnsofblackpepperinaliddedcontainer,andshakewelltomix.Thiswillkeepinthefridgefor4to5days,andisgoodoneverythingexceptostricheggs.

Thisisanoldfavoriteofmine,arecipedevisedbyKevinPemoulie,nowthechef-ownerofThirtyAcresinJerseyCity,NewJersey,butthenthechefdecuisineofMomofukuNoodleBar.ChangandIfirstpublisheditintheMomofukucookbook.Asitsnameimplies,itwasoriginallydevisedforoctopus,butitwaslaterusedoverNoodleBar’sfirstfriedchicken.(They’vesincegoneawayfromthat,butIMLTHO,friedchickenistopstoppedwiththis.And,subparenthetically,itisalsoverygoodwiththeseasoningpacket

frominstantramenshakenalloverit.ButIdigress.)ANYHOW,thisisoneofthoseover-any-proteinsaucesthatinternationalcondimentconglomerateswouldmurdereachothertopatent,buthereitisfreeandeasyforyoutoenjoy.This+anythinggrilled/mostthingsfried=winningateating.

NuocChamMakesalittlemorethan1cup

½C fishsauce¼C water¼C limejuice2T palm,raw,orlightbrownsugar1 garlicclove,minced½t sambaloelek

Combinethefishsauce,water,limejuice,sugar,garlic,andsambal.Adjusttheconsistencywithalittlemorewater,ifverythick,ormoresambalifyoulikeitspicy.Nuocchamkeeps,refrigerated,forupto1week.

IfVietnamesecuisinewasacar,thiswouldbethejuiceitranon.Itisthefundamentalcondiment.Onpoorlyplannedorjustlow-moneynights,proudmenhavebeenknowntoeatitoverriceandcallthatdinner.ThereisnoVietnamesemealatwhichthiswouldn’tbewelcomeatthetableand/orspoonedintoorontosomethingeventually.

1

2

SambalMakes½cup

8oz freshredchilies(suchasHolland,Fresno,orfinger)2t koshersalt2T distilledwhitevinegar

Chopthechiliesandplaceinamortarwiththesaltandgrindtoapaste.(Ifyoudon’thaveamortarandpestle,gratethechiliesona

Microplaneoronthefinesideofaboxgraterintoabowl.Stirthesaltintothepulpandletstanduntildissolved,about10minutes.)

Coverwithacheeseclothandletstandatroomtemperatureuntillittlebubblesform,24to48hours.Stirinthevinegar.Transfertoan

airtightcontainer.Refrigerated,thiskeepsfor2weeks.

Thereisnoquestionaboutwhetherstore-boughtsambaloelekisgreat.(MuchlikeHall&Oates’sGreatestHits,there’sjustnoarguingaboutthat.)Butitdoesn’tmeanyoucan’tmakesomeyourself.

I’msuresomebody’sgonnamakeitwithThaibirdpeppersorsomecompetition/showpepperandmakeithotenoughtosingeyoureyebrowsoff,butI’dadviseshoppingonthemilderendofthehotchilidepartment.Ilikehotsaucewithmoreorlesseverything,butIdon’twannalookliketheguyinTheWallaftereatingit.

Useitinplaceofcommerciallymadesambaloelekcalledforanywhereinthisbookortospiceupwhateveryou’reeating.Anddon’tbeshyaboutdressingituptogowiththefoodyou’reservingitwith—stirinasqueezeoflime,gratedgarlic,orsugar(½teaspoonisagoodplacetostart),ormixitwithequalpartswhitevinegartoturnitintoadashablehotsauce.

TofuDressingMakesascant2cups

½C silkentofu¼C soysauce1T sugar1T sambaloelek1T sherryvinegar1½t sesameoil½C canolaoil

Combinethetofu,soysauce,sugar,sambal,vinegar,andsesameoilinablender.Blenduntilsmooth.Withthemotorrunning,drizzleinthecanolaoil;thedressingwillbecometheconsistencyofloosepudding.Tofudressingkeeps,coveredandrefrigerated,forupto1week.

IntheearlydaysofMáPêche,theMomofukurestaurantinmidtownManhattan,thisdressingappearedonalate-summersaladofbarelycookedbeans—IthinkitwasamixofallthebeautifulvarietiesthatfillthemarketjustbeforetheweatherturnscoldandweheadbacktorutabagaseasonhereinNewYork.

Iimmediatelyremoveditfromthatcontextandstartedusingitwilly-nillyathome.Itwasgoodoneverything:Theflavorsofthesambalandsesameoilandvinegarandsugaralltaketheirturnsatcenterstage,stretchingoutthepleasureofeatingit.Itworkspouredovervegetablesorasadip.IthasanICan’tBelieveIt’sNotButterqualitytoit,inthat“tofusauce”isnotsomethingthatsoundsevenremotelygoodsaidoutloud—butthetofuandoilmakeforsomethingbothcrazy—creamyandpleasinglylight.

1

2

OddFlavorSauceMakesabout½cup

3T soysauce2T tahinioralmondorpeanutbutter1T Chinkiangvinegar(preferable!)orred-winevinegar1T sesameoil2t sugar¼t koshersalt3T neutraloil1 smallscallion,finelychopped(about1T)1T mincedfreshginger1 largegarlicclove,finelychopped(about1t)½t chiliflakes,ormoretotaste½t crushedSichuanpeppercorns

Combinethesoysauce,tahini,vinegar,sesameoil,sugar,andsaltinasmallheatproofbowlandmixuntilthesugarisdissolvedandthetahini

iswellincorporated.(Itmightnotbeperfectlydissolved.That’sokay.)

Heatasmallskilletovermediumheat,addtheneutraloil,swirl,andheatuntilshimmering.Tossinthescallion,ginger,garlic,chiliflakes,

andcrushedpeppercorns.Removefromtheheatandstirfor10seconds,untilthescallionisbrightgreenandthemixtureisveryaromatic.Pourthecontentsofthepanintotheliquidseasonings,whiskinguntilwellblended.Oncecool,thissaucewillkeepinthefridgeforadayortwo.

IacquiredmyfirstcopyofIreneKuo’sTheKeytoChineseCookingfromausedbookstoreandsoonenoughhomedinonherrecipeforOdd-FlavoredSauce,whichappealedtomebecauseithadeverythinginit:

chiliheat,peppercornpunch,thestingofblackvinegar,thewarmcharmofsesameoil.What’snottolike?

We’vedialedinherrecipealittlemoretoourtaste.Itisgoodwithanywarmwhiteproteins—yourchicken,fish,pork,andtofu—andcangenerallybringlifetoanyblandfoodstraightoutofthefridge.Salt-and-pepperoneofthoseproteinsandheatthroughuntilit’scooked(inapan,inthetoasteroven,whatever),sliceitup,douseitintheOddFlavor,and(withalittlerice)dinnerisdone.

OrangesOneorangeperperson?Unlessthey’rereallygood.Thenyou’llwantmore.

+ oranges

Cutthemupordon’t.

Thereissomeminordegreeoffacetiousnessinrunningarecipefororanges.ButIdon’twantyoutofeellikeeven0.9900990099percentofthiscompilationisheretodoanythingotherthantomakeforeasiercookingandahardertimefittingintonon-elasticpants.

ThedealwithdessertintheschemeofeasyAsiancookingisthatyouareNOTMAKINGIT,notinthe“easy”Frenchwayofthrowingtogetheralast-minuteclafoutis.Youareservingfruit.Cut-upfruitifyou’vegotthetime.

Koreanmomsaremelon-slingers:cantaloupeandwatermelon.Seasonsbedamned,there’sgonnabemelon.FruitslikemangoesaresogoodinthetropicalenvironmentstheygrowinthathowcouldyounotwantsometofinishoffyourThaidinner?

JoanneChang,pastrychef/co-ownerofFlourBakeryandMyers+ChanginBoston,toldus,“Myparentswouldinvitefriendsover,andmybrotherandIwouldhelpasmuchaswecouldandbeexcitedbecausewe’dgetfoodsthatwedidn’tusuallyget,”whichmeantmainlythat“atdesserttimetherewouldbethishugeplatteroforanges.Soforme,thatwasdessert,thatwashowyouendedameal:withfruit.

“Youknow,sometimestheywouldsexupthefruitalittlebitandusepineappleormelonorwhateverhappenedtobeinseason.IcanonlyspeakforTaiwaneseculture—I’mTaiwanese—butwedon’thavesweettooths.”

Thisistrueandnottrue.SweetsareahugepartoftheAsianculinarycanon,buttheyareveryoftenmadeandpurchasedoutsideofthehome:bakeriesarecommunityhubs;bakedgoodsareoftenpartofdaytimemealsthatgowithtea.

Andhere’sthething:Nobodynowhereargueswithsweetsattheendofthemeal.Fruitisthehealthiestandeasiestchoice.Butthere’snoshameinthegameofgettingbakerycakes,frozenmochiattheJapanesemarket,andservingitinaminorlyelegantway—whetherit’sorangewedgesorgreenteaKitKats—it’sthegesturethatcountsthemost.

23

4

5

1

EggCustardTartsMakes12servings

⅓C sugar⅓C water2 largeeggs½C milk¼t vanillaextract+ koshersalt1 package(about1lb)frozenpuffpastry,thawed+ all-purposeflour

Heattheovento350°F.Haveamuffintinattheready.

Dissolvethesugarinthewaterinasmallbowl.Whiskintheeggs,milk,vanilla,andapinchofsalt.

Unfoldthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurface.Rolltoa⅓-inchthickness,thenpunchout3-inch(bigenoughtolineyourmolds)

circleswithabiscuitcutterordrinkingglass.Pressthedoughintothemolds,trimmingoffexcess.Dockthepastry(prickitwithafork)morethanyouthinkyoushould.

Bakethepastryfor10minutes,soitisslightlypuffedandhardtothetouchbutnotatallbrowned.Removefromtheovenandgentlypress

backanydoughthathasbubbledout.Leavetheovenon,butreducethetemperatureto325°F.

Dividethecustardamongthetartshells.Returntotheovenandbakeuntilthecustardsareset,25to30minutes.Removeandletcool

completelybeforeeating.

EvenifI’mgoingwithEATFRUITasLuckyPeach’seasyAsiandessertmantra,Ican’tpretendliketherearen’tpeoplewithanunnaturalfixationonbakingoutthere(likemywife)orafixationoneggtarts(likemyoldestdaughter,whowilleattwoordersofthematdimsumwithoutevenpretendinglikeshe’sgoingtoshareany).

Afewnotes:We’reusingmilkinsteadofcondensedmilkhere,becauseitmakesalightercustard.Also,cheappuffpastryiseasiertoworkwithandproducesmoreeven,reliableresultsthanhyperbutteryartisanalorhomemadedough.We’renotspecifyingamoldshapesincethisrecipewillworkinamuffintin.Justbesuretodockthepastrywell.

Acknowledgments

Tryingtocomposetheappropriatethanksforacollectivelyassembledbooklikethisoneisimpossible.Wheretostop?IconsultedJonathanGoldonanearlyrenditionofGadoGadowhenweweregettingrecipestogether,andhisconsternationatwhatIproposedhelpedmepushourrecipesofarfromitsrootsastoturnasaladintoadip.ShouldIthankShuenKeeChong,whotaughttwenty-year-oldmehowtoshopinChinatownandintroducedmetomuchofthiscooking?OrMikiTanaka,astalwartfriendofthelastcoupleofdecades,whomakesitseemlikeIknowstuffaboutJapanesefoodwhen,infact,Ijusthavethephonenumberofsomeonewhodoes?Yes,yes,andyes.Thankstothem,andtoallthepeople,chefsandauthors,eatersandreaders,who’vehelpedshape,shift,orshovetheideasinthisbooktotheplacestheyneededtobe.

Butonthereal-specific-making-of-this-booktip:Mary-FrancesHeck’sunflusterablemannerandresolutecommitmenttotheactual,functionaldoabilityofrecipeswassuper-duperessentialtowhateverisgoodaboutwhat’sbetweenthesecovers.

GabrieleStabile,MarkIbold,andHannahClarkdidrealdreamweaver’sworkwiththepropping,styling,andshootingofallthephotosinthisbook.Theykilledsomedumbideasandtookotheronestonewandexcitinglevelsofstupidity.Theirtalentbringsthebooktolife.

WalterGreenandHelenTsengcreatedandexecutedthehandsomedesignhereanddealtwithendlesslast-minuterequests.Infact,norequeststheydealtwithwereeverconveyedwithanylessthanwild-eyedlate-nighturgency,andthefactthattheyturnedeverysourmangoofanartproblemintoagemlikeriperambutanofqualitybookdesignwithoutstabbing

anybodyintheeyeisextraordinaryandcommendable.JasonPolan’sdrawingsbroughteleventh-hourlevityandjoytothebookmakingprocessandaddedahumanizingdimensiontothepages.He’sthebest;youshouldseekouthisotherwork.

IhavesubmittedarequisitionformtosupplyRicaAllannicandherteamatClarksonPotterwithavarietyofdeluxefootspas,massagingchairinserts,andAyurvedichealingbalms:MarysarahQuinn,ChristineTanigawa,andDerekGullino.Theydeservethem.

Andthenthere’stheeditteamatLuckyPeach,whohelpedshapethemanuscript,whohelpedselecttherecipes,whocontributedsomeandeditedall.JoannaSciarrinoborethebruntofbringingallthepiecestogether,whichIimaginewaslikeworkingintheERontheIslandofMisfitToys:Everythingwasalreadybroken,butshefoundwaystofixthemupregardless.ChrisYing,RachelKhong,andBretteWarshawbroughtcarefuleyestothemanuscript.Theyareallawesomeandbetterpeoplethanthepeopleatyourmagazine,sotakethat.

Lastly,personally:ThankstoKimWitherspoon,whoismeanorniceatexactlytherighttimes.And,mostimportant,thankstoHannahandHazelandJoni,myfamily,formakingandlettingthisbookhappen.Wedidn’tgettheLuckyPeachtestkitchenbuiltintimetodothisbook,sophotoshootsandrecipedevelopmentallhappenedinmyapartment,whichatnightoftensmelledliketheinsideofawok.TheywereendlesslypatientandencouragingandIlovethemevenmorethanIloveCuminLamb,whichissayingalotbecauseIatethatentiremultipersonportioninthephotoonlyminutesafterthepicturewastaken.

—PFM,2015

Index

A

Adobo,about

Anchovies,dried

NasiLemak

ApamBalik

Asparagus,Stir-Fried

Avocados

SilkenTofuSnack

B

Bacon

CornCheese

DoenjangJjigae

RotisserieChickenRamen

Basil

ComTamBreakfast

PestoRamen

SlowCookerPho

SummerRolls

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Beansprouts

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

EconomyNoodles

SlowCookerPho

St.PaulSandwich

Beef

JumukBap

NoodleSoup

Pan-RoastedRibEyewithMs.Kwok’sBlackPepperSauce

Roll

Satay

SichuaneseChoppedCelerywith

SlowCookerPho

Soy-BraisedShortRibs

BokChoy

BeefNoodleSoup

Lion’sHeadMeatballs

withOysterSauce

SichuanPorkRagu

TofuinKombuDashiHotPot

Bonitoflakes

about

Dashi

Broccoli

forGadoGadoDip

PadSeeEw

Brokenrice

Broth.SeeDashi

C

Cabbage

ChineseChickenSalad

DollarDumplingsIII

forGadoGadoDip

Lion’sHeadMeatballs

MooShuVegetables

Okonomiyaki

SoySauceKimchi

SummerRolls

VegetableDumplings

Carrot(s)

forGadoGadoDip

-GingerDressing

JapChae

Kimbap

Soy-BraisedShortRibs

SummerRolls

Celery

SichuaneseChopped,withBeef

SpicyCold

Cheese,Corn

Chicken

Adobo

ChineseRoast

Five-Spice

KoreanGrilled

LacqueredRoast

Lemongrass

Mall

MassamanCurry

MisoClaypot(NoClaypot)

NoodleSoup

Omurice

Oyakodon

PadSeeEw

Rice,Hainan

Rotisserie,Ramen

Salad,Chinese

SpicyRoast

Wings,Braised

Chilies,dried.SeeDriedredchilies

Chilioil,about

ChineseRoastChicken

ChineseSausage(s)

about

FriedRice

StickyRiceWrappedinLotusLeaves

Chinkiangvinegar,about

ChiveandShrimpDumplings

Cilantro

BeefRoll

ComTamBreakfast

Lamburgers

SlowCookerPho

SummerRolls

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

Clam(s)

Chowder,Miso

withLemongrassinaVietnameseStyle

Coconut

ChickenAdobo

Coco-CurriedMussels

MassamanCurry

Rice

ComTamBreakfast

Corn

ApamBalik

Cheese

Cucumber(s)

Kimbap

NasiLemak

Pickles,Soy’n’…Sugar

Salad,Chineasy

SummerRolls

TodMunFishCakes

CuminLamb

Currypaste

about

Coco-CurriedMussels

MassamanCurry

TodMunFishCakes

D

D

Daikon

Kimbap

Dashi

DashimakiTamago

Dashipowder(hondashi),about

Dips

DumplingDippingSauce

GadoGado

PeanutSauce

SesameDippingSauce

DoenjangJjigae

DollarDumplings

Dressings

Carrot-Ginger

Ginger

OctoVinaigrette

Tofu

Driedbabyshrimp

about

GreenPapayaSalad

HiyashiSomen

Driedredchilies

about

BraisedChickenWings

KungPaoShrimp

DumplingDippingSauce

Dumplings

Dollar

ShrimpandChive

Vegetable

E

EconomyNoodles

Eggplant

Eggplant

Miso-Glazed

Warm,withGreenPeppers

Egg(s)

ComTamBreakfast

CustardTarts

DashimakiTamago

FooYung

FriedRiceTwoWays

forGadoGadoDip

HotandSourSoup

Kimbap

NasiLemak

Okonomiyaki

Omurice

Oyakodon

PadSeeEw

RotisserieChickenRamen

SoySauce

St.PaulSandwich

Equipment

F

Fish

Cakes,TodMun

Miso-Roasted

NasiLemak

Okonomiyaki

SteamedWhole,TwoSauces

TunaOnigiri

FishSauce

about

NuocCham

Spareribs

Five-spicepowder

about

Five-SpiceChicken

Furikake,about

G

GadoGadoDip

Garlic

Shrimp,Ms.VoThiHuong’s

Whole,Greenswith

Ginger

-CarrotDressing

Dressing

-ScallionSauce,DannyBowien’s

-ScallionSauce,DaveChang’s

Gochugaru,about

Gochujang,about

GrapefruitandSquidSalad

GreenBeans

Dry-Fried

forGadoGadoDip

GreenPapayaSalad

GreenPapayaSalad

Greens.SeealsoBokChoy;Cabbage

BeefNoodleSoup

Oshitashi

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

TofuinKombuDashiHotPot

withWholeGarlic

H

HainanChickenRice

Herb(s).SeealsoBasil;Cilantro;Mint

ComTamBreakfast

FriedRice,Thai

ParsleyOnigiri

SlowCookerPho

SummerRolls

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

HiyashiSomen

Hondashi,about

HotandSourSoup

HotPot,KombuDashi,Tofuin

HotPots,about

J

JapChae

Jasminerice,about

JumukBap

K

KabochaRice

Kaeshi

Katsuobushi.SeeBonitoflakes

Kimbap

Kimchi

Pancake

SoySauce

Kombu

about

Dashi

DashiHotPot,Tofuin

KoreanGrilledChicken

KoreanPumpkinPancake

KungPaoShrimp

L

Lamb

Lamb

Cumin

Lamburgers

Lapcheong.SeeChineseSausage(s)

LeekandMushrooms,ColdSobawith

Lemongrass

Chicken

Clamswith,inaVietnameseStyle

LettuceCups,Thai-Style

Lion’sHeadMeatballs

Lomeinnoodles,about

LotusLeaves

dried,about

StickyRiceWrappedin

M

MacanesePorkChopBun

MallChicken

Maltose,about

MassamanCurry

Meat.SeeBeef;Lamb;Pork

Meatballs,Lion’sHead

Medium-grainrice,about

Menma,addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

Mint

ComTamBreakfast

SlowCookerPho

SquidandGrapefruitSalad

SummerRolls

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

Mirin

about

Kaeshi

Miso

ClamChowder

ClaypotChicken(NoClaypot)

-GlazedEggplant

paste,about

RoastedFish

MooShuPancakes

MooShuVegetables

Mortarandpestle

Ms.Kwok’sBlackPepperSauce

Ms.VoThiHuong’sGarlicShrimp

Mushroom(s)

DoenjangJjigae

driedshiitakes,about

driedwoodear,about

HotandSourSoup

JapChae

andLeek,ColdSobawith

MisoClaypotChicken(NoClaypot)

MisoSoup

MooShuVegetables

Ragu,Spicy

VegetableDumplings

Mussels,Coco-Curried

N

NasiLemak

Noodle(s)

AsianRagusfor

ChineseChickenSalad

ColdSobawithMushroomsandLeek

Economy

HiyashiSomen

JapChae

lomein,about

PadSeeEw

PestoRamen

ramen,about

rice,about

RotisserieChickenRamen

SlowCookerPho

soba,about

somen,about

Soup,Beef

Soup,Chicken

SummerRolls

sweetpotato,about

udon,about

Nori

about

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

Kimbap

Onigiri

TofuinKombuDashiHotPot

NuocCham

O

OctoVinaigrette

OddFlavorSauce

Oils

chili,about

sesame,about

Okonomiyaki

Omurice

Onigiri

Yaki

Onions

JapChae

SichuanPorkRagu

Oranges

ChineseChickenSalad

fordessert

Oshitashi

Oyakodon

Oystersauce,about

P

PadSeeEw

Pancakes

ApamBalik

BeefRoll

Kimchi

MooShu

Okonomiyaki

Pumpkin,Korean

Scallion

Pantryingredients

level1

level2

level3

ParsleyOnigiri

Peanutbutter

GadoGadoDip

PeanutSauce

Peanuts

ApamBalik

ChineasyCucumberSalad

GreenPapayaSalad

KungPaoShrimp

MassamanCurry

NasiLemak

forrecipes

TodMunFishCakes

Peas

ChineseChickenSalad

ChineseSausageFriedRice

Omurice

Peppercorns

Ms.Kwok’sBlackPepperSauce

Sichuan,about

SpicyRoastChicken

white,about

Peppers.SeealsoDriedredchilies

GadoGado

Green,WarmEggplantwith

JapChae

KungPaoShrimp

MooShuVegetables

Sambal

PestoRamen

Pho,SlowCooker

Plums,pickled.SeeUmeboshi

Pork.SeealsoBacon;ChineseSausage(s)

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

ChopBun,Macanese

ComTamBreakfast

DollarDumplings

FishSauceSpareribs

HotandSourSoup

Lion’sHeadMeatballs

Ragu,Sichuan

RedRoast

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

Potatoes

MassamanCurry

MisoClamChowder

Soy-BraisedShortRibs

Sweet,Roasted

Preservedblackbeans

about

BlackBeanSauce

PumpkinPancake,Korean

R

Ragus

SichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeef

SichuanPork

SpicyMushroom

Ramennoodles,about

Rice

broken,about

Coconut

ComTamBreakfast

Fried,ChineseSausage

Fried,ThaiHerb

fried,thoughtsabout

Fried,TwoWays

HainanChicken

jasmine,about,fm.1,fm.2

JumukBap

Kabocha

Kimbap

medium-grain,about,fm.1,fm.2

MisoClaypotChicken(NoClaypot)

Omurice

Onigiri

short-grain(sushi),about,fm.1,fm.2

sticky,about,fm.1,fm.2

Sticky,WrappedinLotusLeaves

Ume

Ricecookers

Ricenoodles,about

Ricepaperrolls

SummerRolls

Ricevinegar,about

S

S

Salads

ChineseChicken

Cucumber,Chineasy

GreenPapaya

Scallion

Seaweed

SquidandGrapefruit

Sambal

Sambaloelek,about

Sandwiches

Lamburgers

MacanesePorkChopBun

St.Paul

Satay,Beef

Sauces

BlackBean

BlackPepper,Ms.Kwok’s

Ginger-Scallion,DannyBowien’s

Ginger-Scallion,DaveChang’s

Kaeshi

NuocCham

OddFlavor

Peanut

Ponzu

Sambal

SichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeef

SichuanPorkRagu

SpicyMushroomRagu

TripleS:Soy-Sauce

Scallion(s)

BeefRoll

-GingerSauce,DannyBowien’s

-GingerSauce,DaveChang’s

JapChae

Ms.VoThiHuong’sGarlicShrimp

Pancakes

Salad

St.PaulSandwich

SummerRolls

Seafood.SeeFish;Shellfish

Seaweed

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

Dashi

Kimbap

kombu,about

nori,about

Onigiri

Salad

TofuinKombuDashiHotPot

Sesameoil,about

Sesameseeds

about

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

JapChae

MallChicken

Miso-GlazedEggplant

Oshitashi

SeaweedSalad

Shaoxingwine,about

Shellfish.SeealsoShrimp

ClamswithLemongrassinaVietnameseStyle

Coco-CurriedMussels

MisoClamChowder

SquidandGrapefruitSalad

Shichimitogarashi

about

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

Shrimp.SeealsoDriedbabyshrimp

chips,about

chips,forGadoGadoDip

andChiveDumplings

Garlic,Ms.VoThiHuong’s

KungPao

SummerRolls

SichuaneseChoppedCelerywithBeef

SichuanPorkRagu

Sobanoodles,about

Somennoodles,about

Soups

BeefNoodle

ChickenNoodle

DoenjangJjigae

HotandSour

MassamanCurry

Miso

MisoClamChowder

RotisserieChickenRamen

SlowCookerPho

Soy(Sauce)

about

BlackBeanSauce

-BraisedShortRibs

ChickenAdobo

DumplingDippingSauce

Eggs

Kimchi

’n’SugarCucumberPickles

OctoVinaigrette

OddFlavorSauce

Ponzu

SesameDippingSauce

TofuDressing

TripleS

Spicychilicrisp,about

Spider(slottedspoon)

Squash

DoenjangJjigae

KabochaRice

KoreanPumpkinPancake

Roasted,withRedGlaze

Squid

andGrapefruitSalad

Okonomiyaki

St.PaulSandwich

Staranise,about

StickyRice

(glutinous),about

WrappedinLotusLeaves

SummerRolls

Sushi/short-grainrice,about

SweetPotatoes,Roasted

Sweetpotatonoodles,about

T

Tahini

about

OddFlavorSauce

SesameDippingSauce

Takuan

about

SpicyMushroomRagu

Tarts,EggCustard

ThaiHerbFriedRice

Thai-StyleLettuceCups

TodMunFishCakes

Tofu

DoenjangJjigae

Dressing

forGadoGadoDip

HotandSourSoup

inKombuDashiHotPot

MisoSoup

Silken,Snack

Tomatoes

GreenPapayaSalad

St.PaulSandwich

TunaOnigiri

U

Udonnoodles,about

Umeboshi

about

Onigiri

UmeRice

V

Vegetable(s).Seealsospecificvegetables

addingtoRotisserieChickenRamen

Dumplings

GadoGadoDip

MooShu

Vinaigrette,Octo

Vinegars

Chinkiang,about

rice,about

W

Wine,Shaoxing,about

Woksandwokspatulas

Wonton/dumplingwrappers

about

DollarDumplings

ShrimpandChiveDumplings

VegetableDumplings

Z

Zucchini

DoenjangJjigae

ConversionChart

EquivalentImperialandMetricMeasurements

Americancooksusestandardcontainers,the8-ouncecupandatablespoonthattakesexactly16levelfillingstofillthatcuplevel.Measuringbycupmakesitverydifficulttogiveweightequivalents,asacupofdenselypackedbutterwillweighconsiderablymorethanacupofflour.Theeasiestwaythereforetodealwithcupmeasurementsinrecipesistotaketheamountbyvolumeratherthanbyweight.Thustheequationreads:

1cup=240ml=8fl.oz.½cup=120ml=4fl.oz.

ItispossibletobuyasetofAmericancupmeasuresinmajorstoresaroundtheworld.

IntheStates,butterisoftenmeasuredinsticks.Onestickistheequivalentof8tablespoons.Onetablespoonofbutteristhereforetheequivalentto½ounce/15grams.

LiquidMeasuresFluidOunces U.S. Imperial Milliliters 1teaspoon 1teaspoon 5¼ 2teaspoons 1dessertspoon 10½ 1tablespoon 1tablespoon 141 2tablespoons 2tablespoons 282 ¼cup 4tablespoons 564 ½cup 1205 ¼pintor1gill 1406 ¾cup 1708 1cup 2409 250,¼liter10 1¼cups ½pint 28012 1½cups 34015 ¾pint 42016 2cups 45018 2¼cups 500,½liter20 2½cups 1pint 56024 3cups 67525 1¼pints 70027 3½cups 75030 3¾cups 1½pints 84032 4cupsor 900 1quart 35 1¾pints 98036 4½cups 1000,1liter40 5cups 2pintsor1quart 1120

SolidMeasuresU.S.andImperialMeasures MetricMeasuresOunces Pounds Grams Kilos1 28 2 56 3½ 100 4 ¼ 112 5 140 6 168 8 ½ 225 9 250 ¼12 ¾ 340 16 1 450 18 500 ½20 1¼ 560 24 1½ 675 27 750 ¾28 1¾ 780 32 2 900 36 2¼ 1000 140 2½ 1100 48 3 1350 54 1500 1½

OvenTemperatureEquivalentsFahrenheit Celsius GasMark Description225 110 ¼ Cool250 130 ½ 275 140 1 VerySlow300 150 2 325 170 3 Slow350 180 4 Moderate375 190 5 400 200 6 ModeratelyHot425 220 7 FairlyHot450 230 8 Hot475 240 9 VeryHot500 250 10 ExtremelyHot

Anybroilingrecipescanbeusedwiththegrilloftheoven,butbewareofhigh-temperaturegrills.