Finished Size:15” x 35 1/2”

LoonieBlooms

bySipiweske QuiltDesigns

Blooms

Cut 2 or 3

Blooms

Cut 2 or 3

Leaves

Cut 2

Leaves

Cut 2

BasketCut 1

GroundCut 1

Loonie Bloom

sby Sipiweske Q

uilts

Loonie B

looms - Page Four

copyright Sipiweske Q

uilt Designs by M

arlene Biles

Supply List

Background - 6 1/2” x 28” Inner Border - 2 - 1 1/2” x 28” &

1 - 1 1/2” x 8 1/2”Outer border - 2 - 3 3/4” x 29” &

2 - 3 3/4” x 15 1/2”Various Scraps for applique shapesGreen print for stem

s 3” x 17“Binding - 3 - 2 1/4” x 42“ stripsTTabs - 2 - 3 3/4” x 8 1/2” Heat ‘n Bond Lite Fusible W

ebBacking and Batting- 18” x 382 - 18m

m self-covered buttons

Finished Size15” x 35 1/2”

Leaves

Cut 2Leaves

Cut 2

Cut5Cut 5

1. Referring to the project photo, sew the borders to the background fabric – note that the ground shape is inserted before the outer borders are sewn on. Once all borders have been completed, give it all a good pressing.2. Trace all of your chosen appliqué shapes on the paper side of the Heat & Bond fusible web. Roughly cut out the shapes leaving a small allowance on all sides. Iron to the wrong side of all your chosen prints – cut out on the drawn

lines.

3. Stems – cut a 3” x 17” piece of Heat & Bond and press it onto the wrong side of your green stem fabric. Let cool and then cut 5 strips either ¼” or 3/8” strips by the 17” length – whichever width you prefer.

Loonie Blooms - Page Onecopyright Sipiweske Quilt Designs by Marlene Biles

Loonie Blooms by Sipiweske Quilt Designs

This pattern has been designed using the raw-edge appliqué technique . . . any other methods will require you to make adjust-ments as necessary. Remember that this is your design and it is OK to put on as many flowers or leaves on it as YOU want. Add buttons or beads for the flower centers – make it as “loonie” as you want! (Oh, I forgot to tell you about the name of the design . . . the larger centre circle in the middle of the bloom was traced from a Canadian $1.00 Loonie – I decided the

$2.00 Toonie was just too big)Following the supply list included on the template sheet cut and layout all of your background, border pieces and ground shape. I used many

prints from the one line of fabric and the scrappiness of it appeals to me . . . so if you have a piece of fabric that fits, put it in! My fabrics came from a MODA Scrap Bag, except for the flower pot which was cut from a charm square and of course the background, backing and binding where cut from yardage. This project would be a great way to use up some fabrics from the scrap bin – remember those little pieces you just threw fabrics from the scrap bin – remember those little pieces you just threw

in there – dig them out!

9. Lower your needle into the shape (fairly close to the edge) and then raise the needle and gently pull on the top thread to bring up the bobbin thread to the top. Hold on to your two threads and lower the needle up and down in the same spot to secure the threads. This can create a bit of a thread lump on the backside so I like to darn in my ends . . . I know it takes a bit longer but I think it does give a more finished look. I usually stop my stitching after doing a few shapes and darn in those ends – this helps eliminate stitching over the loose threads.helps eliminate stitching over the loose threads.

Loonie Blooms - Page Twocopyright Sipiweske Quilt Designs by Marlene Biles

4. Now that you have the background all pressed and ready and you have your stems and appliqué shapes all ready to go, it is time to start positioning things where YOU want them to go. I found that to get the nice curve on your stems is easiest done by ironing it from the bottom up – gently curving the stem as you press it. I found that by starting with the centre stem and working your way out is easier. Take your time and get things in the spots where you want them. If you forget to position a leaf you can usually go back and reheat the stem with the iron and then gently lift the edge and slip the leaf shape under,and then gently lift the edge and slip the leaf shape under,5. Once all of the pressing is done it is now time to layer your quilt. Prepare your backing fabric and lay it out with the wrong side up – spray-baste and position your batting in place. Spray-baste the batting and gently position and smooth down your quilt top..

6. I used a zig-zag stitch to stitch down the stems, but a machine blanket stitch would work as well.

7. Now it’s time to stitch your shapes. Set up your machine for free-motion quilting and drop your feed dogs.

8. Find matching threads for all your fabric and use a bobbin thread that matches your backing.

10. Now start free-motion quilting around the edge of your shape. I actually went around my shapes three times – no reason, but that was just the look I liked. You can do only two or even choose more if you wanted. This method does take a bit of practice and I find that by going around your shape more than once kind of fills in the squiggly, meandering stitches that we all make – it would take a lot of practice to not have the stitches it would take a lot of practice to not have the stitches go helter-skelter like some of mine!11. You can also add details to your leaves, flowers or stems if you feel that you want to branch out from the raw-edge stitching. Stitch in some vein lines on your leaves or some petal shapes on your flowers – anything you choose adds even more detail.12. You could also make some curly-q’s or stitch some free-form leaves – anything goes so have fun!

Loonie Blooms - Page Threecopyright Sipiweske Quilt Designs by Marlene Biles

13. I used a cream top thread and meander quilted the rest of the quilt top; quilting around, not over, the applique shapes.14. Once all the stitching is complete, prepare your tabs. Layer the 3 3/4” x 8 ½” print and background pieces right sides together, fold in half horizontally and place the 60 degree line on the folded edge; cut as shown to form the little point. Stitch ¼” from the edges, leaving the straight edge open for turning. Turn right side out and press.15.15. With the right side of the tabs facing the wrong side of the top of the wall hanging, baste the tabs approximately 2¼” in from each side. Flip the tab over to the right side to make sure it is facing the right way!

16. Now prepare your binding strips and stitch to the front side of your wall hanging, mitering corners as you go.17. Hand stitch the binding to the back side.

18. Make the little buttons following the instructions on the package. Stitch the tabs and buttons in place.19. Label and enjoy!