©lonely planet publications pty ltd eastern...

Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon, Anita Isalska, Vesna Maric, MaSovaida Morgan, Leonid Ragozin, Brana

Vladisavljevic, Neil Wilson, Anthony Ham, Jessica Lee, Kevin Raub

Bosnia &Hercegovina

p74

Russiap360

Montenegrop276

Belarusp60

Moldovap264

Romaniap338

Slovakiap410

Hungaryp198

Ukraine p448

Bulgaria p92

Lithuaniap248

Latvia p232

MacedoniaNorth

p290Albania

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Polandp308

Czech Republicp144

Croatiap116

Estoniap178

Serbiap392

Sloveniap430

Kosovo p222

Eastern Europe

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Eastern Europe . . . . . . . . . .6

Eastern Europe Map . . . . . .8

Eastern Europe’s Top 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Month by Month . . . . . . . 28

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

ALBANIA . . . . . . . . . . 42Tirana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Central Albania . . . . . . . . 49Berat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Gjirokastra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51The Albanian Riviera & the East . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Saranda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Ksamil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Himara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Shkodra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54The Accursed Mountains & the North . . . . . . . . . . . 56Valbona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Theth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

BELARUS . . . . . . . . . . 60Minsk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Nyasvizh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Mir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Brest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park . . . 71Hrodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71

BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA . . . . . 74Sarajevo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Hercegovina . . . . . . . . . . 82Mostar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Blagaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Trebinje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Western Bosnia . . . . . . . . 88Una River Valley . . . . . . . . . 88

BULGARIA . . . . . . . . . 92Sofia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Southern Bulgaria . . . . 101Rila Monastery . . . . . . . . 101Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Plovdiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Central Bulgaria . . . . . . 106Koprivshtitsa . . . . . . . . . . 106

Veliko Târnovo . . . . . . . . . 107Black Sea Coast . . . . . . 109Varna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Nesebâr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Burgas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Sozopol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113

CROATIA . . . . . . . . . .116Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Istria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Plitvice Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . 125Dalmatia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Zadar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Trogir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Hvar Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

CZECH REPUBLIC . . . . . . . . 144Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Karlštejn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Kutná Hora . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Bohemia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Plzeň . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Český Krumlov . . . . . . . . . 164Karlovy Vary . . . . . . . . . . . 167Moravia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Brno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Olomouc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171

ESTONIA . . . . . . . . . .178Tallinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181Northern Estonia . . . . . 189Lahemaa National Park . . . . . . . . . . 189Southern Estonia . . . . . 190Otepää . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Tartu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Western Estonia & the Islands . . . . . . . . . 192

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Pärnu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Muhu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Saaremaa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194

HUNGARY . . . . . . . . 198Budapest . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Danube Bend & Western Transdanubia . . . . . . . . . 210Szentendre . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Visegrád . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Esztergom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Sopron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Lake Balaton & Southern Transdanubia . . . . . . . . . 212Balatonfüred . . . . . . . . . . . 212Keszthely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

Pécs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Great Plain . . . . . . . . . . . 215Szeged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Northern Hungary . . . . 217Eger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217

KOSOVO . . . . . . . . . . 222Pristina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Western Kosovo . . . . . . 228Peja (Peć) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Southern Kosovo . . . . . 229Prizren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

LATVIA . . . . . . . . . . . 232Rīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

Western Latvia . . . . . . . 242Jūrmala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Kuldīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Ventspils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Northern Latvia . . . . . . 245Sigulda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Cēsis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246

LITHUANIA . . . . . . . 248Vilnius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Eastern & Southern Lithuania . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Paneriai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Trakai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Central Lithuania . . . . . 257Kaunas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

Contents

STARI GRAD, HVAR ISLAND (P134), CROATIA

Western Lithuania . . . . 259Klaipėda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Curonian Spit . . . . . . . . . . 261

MOLDOVA . . . . . . . . 264Chişinău . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Orheiul Vechi . . . . . . . . . . . 271Soroca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Gagauzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Transdniestr . . . . . . . . . 273Tiraspol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273

MONTENEGRO . . . . 276Coastal Montenegro . . . . . . . . . . 279Perast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279

Kotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Ulcinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Inland Montenegro . . . . 283Lovćen National Park . . . 283Cetinje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Durmitor National Park . . . . . . . . . . 285

NORTH MACEDONIA . . . . . . 290Skopje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Canyon Matka . . . . . . . . . . 297Western North Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . 298Mavrovo National Park . . . 298Lake Ohrid . . . . . . . . . . . . .300

Ohrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Central North Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . 305Pelister National Park . . . 305Bitola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306

POLAND . . . . . . . . . . 308Warsaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Kraków . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316Małopolska . . . . . . . . . . 322Lublin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Carpathian Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . 324Zakopane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Silesia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Wrocław . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326

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Wielkopolska . . . . . . . . . 328Poznań . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Pomerania . . . . . . . . . . . 330Gdańsk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330Toruń . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334

ROMANIA . . . . . . . . . 338Bucharest . . . . . . . . . . . 340Transylvania . . . . . . . . . 346Braşov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346Sighişoara . . . . . . . . . . . . .349Sibiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Cluj-Napoca . . . . . . . . . . . 352Banat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355Timişoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355

RUSSIA . . . . . . . . . . . 360Moscow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Golden Ring . . . . . . . . . 375Vladimir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375Suzdal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Sergiev Posad . . . . . . . . . 377St Petersburg . . . . . . . . 378

SERBIA . . . . . . . . . . . 392Belgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Vojvodina . . . . . . . . . . . . 402Novi Sad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402South Serbia . . . . . . . . . 406Niš . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406

SLOVAKIA . . . . . . . . 410Bratislava . . . . . . . . . . . . 413Tatra Mountains . . . . . . 420Poprad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420High Tatras . . . . . . . . . . . . 421Eastern Slovakia . . . . . . 424Levoča . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Spišské Podhradie . . . . . . 424Slovenský Raj & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425Košice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426

SLOVENIA . . . . . . . . 430Ljubljana . . . . . . . . . . . . 432The Julian Alps . . . . . . . 438Lake Bled . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438Lake Bohinj . . . . . . . . . . . .440Soča Valley . . . . . . . . . . 442Bovec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442Slovenian Karst & Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443Postojna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443Škocjan Caves . . . . . . . . .444Piran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .445

UKRAINE . . . . . . . . . 448Kyiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Lviv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457Odesa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 464

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 474

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 481

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 509

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BOSNIA& HERCEGOVINA

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UKRAINE

ROMANIA

CROATIA

Eger

Plzeň

Oświęcim

KutnáHora

Kraków

Pécs

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BUDAPEST

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Combine highlights of the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary for an intro-duction to Eastern Europe’s charms.

Start in Prague, spending two days absorbing the Old Town. Day-trip to Kutná Hora, to peep at its eerie ossuary and medieval silver history, and take a beer pilgrim-age to Plzeň.

On day five head by train into Poland to reach Kraków, with its gob-smacking Main Square. Over three days, ramble Wawel Castle and off-beat Kazimierz, and take a trip to harrowing Oświęcim (Auschwitz).

On day eight head to Slovakia, passing through the High Tatras before reaching Bra-tislava, with its Danube views. Spend the evening in wine bars and beer halls; the next morning, take a half-day excursion to crumbling Devín Castle.

On day 10 take a boat down the Danube to Budapest. Spend a couple days simmering in outdoor baths, exploring coffee houses and ruin bars, and admiring the architecture. From here bolt to the baroque Eger and finish with a day trip to Pécs, full of relics from the Turkish occupation.

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Looking to cram history, culture and nightlife into a zippy fortnight-long trip? This itin-erary knits together highlights from five Eastern European countries.

Start off by flying to the Polish capital Warsaw for one night, seeing the beauti-fully restored Old Town and eating pierogi (dumplings) before taking the train south to Kraków. Staying for two nights gives you time to see the Old Town, Wawel Castle and Kazimierz, and do a day trip to Oświęcim (Auschwitz) before taking the overnight train to Prague. Spend another two days on intensive sightseeing – Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and the Old Town, and tasting Czech beer in a local pub.

At the end of day five, take another overnight train to Budapest for two nights in Hungary. Soak in the glorious Gellért Baths, take a cruise on the Danube, see the mag-nificent Parliament building and wander Castle Hill before yet another overnight train (at the end of day seven) to Romania’s underrated capital, Bucharest. With a one-night stay you can cover the main sights, including the Palace of Parliament, wander the his-toric centre and pick up the city’s energy in its bars and clubs.

On day nine, continue by bus or train to Plovdiv in Bulgaria, equally rich in Roman ruins, creaky Bulgarian Revival–era mansions, inventive galleries and bars. Stay two nights here, allowing time to amble through the Old Town, pose in the Roman Amphi-theatre, and take a half-day trip to vertiginous Asen’s Fortress. On day 11, take the train to Sofia for two nights exploring the glamour of the Bulgarian capital, in particular the golden-domed Aleksander Nevski Cathedral and the Ancient Serdica Complex.

On your last day, take a day trip from Sofia through the Rila Mountains to the coun-try’s spiritual nucleus. Thousand-year-old Rila Monastery is Bulgaria’s holiest site, in a mountain setting as spine-tingling as its apocalyptic frescoes. From here, fly out of Sofia or continue to bigger regional air hubs, such as Athens or İstanbul, to get a flight home.

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KOSOVO

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MONTENEGRO

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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498498

WRITER THANKSMark BakerI owe a debt of gratitude to many friends and organisations on the ground in the Czech Republic, Romania and Bulgaria for helping me to update this content. An incomplete list would include Kateřina Pavlitová and the staff at Prague City Tourism. In Romania, Monica Suma, Ligia-Verkin Keșișian, Mark and Raluca Tudose. In Bulgaria, Dani Nencheva, Petia Yoncheva, Petya Lubomirova, and Tatyana Spasova. At Lonely Planet, my Destination Editors Gemma Graham and Brana Vladisavljevic.

Greg BloomAnother big hearty bearhug to dad for tagging along for a big chunk of the research, even enduring a near flash flood in Gagauzia. Tiraspol Tim was his usual helpful self, and thanks also to the handy new tourist offices in Tiraspol and Chişinău. Thanks to Leonid in Brest for the Belevezhskaya tour. Back home, immeasurable thanks to my sanity checks, Callie and Anna. And to Windi, for holding down the fort while I was away.

Stuart ButlerThe first people I must thank are my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for their unending patience while I worked on this project and for being the best travel companions a person could want in Albania. In Kosovo huge thanks to Nol and Virtyt for their help and hiking knowledge. In Albania huge thanks to Amar in Tirana and Altin in Ksamil. Back in

LP’s London office thanks to Brana for all her tips, suggestions and endless Balkan knowledge.

Peter DragicevichFirst and foremost, I’d like to say a huge hvala to Vojko, Marija, Ivan, Mario and Ivana Dragičević in Split, for the kindness and patience you’ve shown your distant cousin over the years. Thanks also to Hayley Wright, Slavenko Sucur, and Emma and Ben Hayward for the tips and chats. Special thanks to my destination editors, Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavl-jevic, and all of the writers, editors and Lonely Planet staff who contributed to this book.

Steve FallonThanks to Virág Katona, Judit Maróthy, Dávid Máté, Ildikó Nagy Moran, Bea Szirti and Adrian Zador for their very helpful suggestions. Gábor Banfalvi and Péter Lengyel showed me the correct wine roads to follow; Tony Láng and Balázs Váradi the political ones. Once again Michael Buurman opened his flat for me in Budapest; thanks to Tal Lev for hospitality. Nagyon szépen köszönöm mindenkinek! As always, I’d like to dedicate my share of this to partner Michael Rothschild, with love and gratitude.

Anthony HamMany thanks to Luca, Miriam, Lidija, Marija in Croatia, to Romana Nared, Ana Petrič and Franc Mlakar in the Lož Valley, and to Saša and Jure in Idrija, and all the staff at tourist offices across Croatia and Slovenia. At Lonely Planet, I am grateful to my editor Anna Tyler for sending me to such wonderful places, and

Behind the Scenes


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to my fellow writers Peter, Mark and Jess for their wisdom. To my family – Marina, Jan, Carlota and Valentina: con todo mi amor.

Anita IsalskaMy research in Slovakia and Lithuania was greatly enriched by the generous advice and local insights of Slavo Stankovic, Marek Leskovjansky, Jana Kačalová, Gintarė Kavaliūnaitė and Raimonda Patapavičienė. For cider-soaked bar research, an extra thank you to Tom Hewitson. A big na zdravie (and na zdrowie) to my parents, Barbara and Harry, for their enthusiastic participation in Bratislava bar crawls. My heartiest thanks, as ever, to Normal Matt for moral support and mountain driving.

Jessica LeeA big thanks to the people of Croatia for being such great company. In particular, a huge thank you to the enthusiastic staff at the tourist informa-tion offices of Varaždin, Osijek and Zagreb County in Croatia, and Celje, Dolenjske Toplice, Murska Sobata and Ptuj in Slovenia, for being founts of knowledge and helpful information and a big thank you to Anton, Irena, Mila, Tea, Tom, Zvonimir, Skanka and Igor, Petra, Daniel and Lea for tips and chats.

Vesna MaricI would like to thank Maja Trajkovska, Metodi Chilimanov, Magdalena Lazarevska and Slobodan Đudurović for making my time in North Macedonia more special than I could imagine. Big thank yous go to Brana Vladisavljevic for commissioning me and always being such a great and kind editor. Thanks also to Tom Masters for his help.

MaSovaida MorganDeepest thanks to the wonderful souls who offered guidance, tips, recommendations, and delight-fully deep conversations during this eye-opening journey. Extra special thanks to LeCiel, Didzis, Rita, Lemmit, Anna, Anet, and Davis.

Leonid RagozinI’d like to thank my friends Dima Zhuravlev, Dima Muzychenko and Sasha Agatov for helping out with research ideas and providing company in Moscow. Also many thanks to Anya and Yulia Semyonov for an excellent dinner and help in St Petersburg. In Ukraine, thanks to Katya Sergatskova, Yevhen Stepanenko, Misha Friedman and Serhiy Savhcuk for joining me on daring research expeditions into the culinary temples and drinking dens of Kyiv, Odesa and Lviv.

Kevin RaubThanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow partners in crime at LP. On the road, Jelena Stank-ović, Maja Živković, Suna Kažić, Marija Mitrović, Dejan Majić, Tijana Vujasinović, Goran Magdić, Djole Jovanović, Filip Mićić, Luka Pejović and Mihailo Subotić.

Brana VladisavljevicHvala puno to James Smart and Jennifer Carey for the support, Kate Morgan for her guidebook authoring advice, co-writer Kevin Raub for excel-lent work on Belgrade, Novi Sad and Niš updates, Dragiša Mijačić for great tips on Stara Planina and Kragujevac, and my sister Sandra for keeping me company on the road for a few days.

Neil WilsonA big thank you to helpful tourist office staff all over Poland, to Łukasz Śmigiel in Gdańsk, and as ever to Carol Downie. Thanks also to Gemma Graham and the rest of the Lonely Planet team.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Windows of a Russian country house, Svetlana Sysoeva/Shutterstock ©Illustrations p364–5, p380–1 by Javier Zarracina.

THIS BOOKThis 15th edition of Lonely Plan-et’s Eastern Europe guidebook was researched and written by Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon, Anthony Ham, Anita Is-alska, Jessica Lee, Vesna Maric, MaSovaida Morgan, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Brana Vladisavljevic and Neil Wilson. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Gemma Graham, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic

Senior Product Editors Grace Dobell, Elizabeth JonesRegional Senior Cartogra-phers Mark Griffiths, Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anthony PhelanProduct Editor Kathryn RowanBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Boicos, Katie Connolly, Joel Cotterell, Jacqueline Danam, Samantha Forge, Emma Gibbs,

Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Alison Morris, Claire Naylor, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Susan Pater-son, Monique Perrin, Tamara Sheward, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Katerina PavkovaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Vesna Čelebić, Dan-iel Herszberg, Günther Mimm, Aristea Parissi, Rachel Rawling, Kirsten Rawlings, Tony Wheeler

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 464

Albania 58Bulgaria 114Hungary 219Romania 357Russia 388

accommodation 464-6, see also individual locations

Accursed Mountains 56-8, 17

activities 28-32, see also individual activities

air travel 474, 475airports 474Albania 42-59, 44

accessible travel 58accommodation 42,

43, 58climate 42costs 43food 42, 43highlights 44itineraries 43language 481-2LGBT+ travellers 58opening hours 58public holidays 58telephone services 58travel seasons 42travel to/from 43, 58-9travel within 59women travellers 58

Albanian language 481-2Albanian Riviera 52-6Aparaaditehas 191Apollonia 49archaeological sites

Ancient Serdica Complex 95

Apollonia 49Heraclea Lyncestis 306

Mediana 406Orheiul Vechi 271-2Roman Forum 126

architecture 14, 27art galleries, see museums

& galleriesart nouveau 238ATMs 469-70Auschwitz-Birkenau

Memorial & Museum 321, 162

BBalatonfüred 212-13Banat 355-7Banská Štiavnica 418banya 372Baščaršija 77bathhouses

Anna Baths 216Debrecen 217Gellért Baths 201Mytninskiye Bani 372Sanduny Baths 372Széchenyi Baths 203

bathrooms 472-3beaches 24

Belgrade 398Black Sea 18, 109-114 18Dupeni Beach 301Helikon Beach 213Hvar Island 135Ohrid 301Pärnu 193Sozopol 113Ventspils Beach 244

Bear Sanctuary 229Belarus 60-73, 62

accommodation 60, 61climate 60costs 61food 60, 61highlights 62internet access 72internet resources 61itineraries 61

legal matters 72opening hours 72public holidays 72-3telephone services 73travel seasons 60travel to/from 61, 73travel within 73visas 73

Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 71

Belgrade 17, 395-402, 396-7, 17

accommodation 398-9climate 392drinking & nightlife 400entertainment 400-1food 399-400shopping 401sights 395-8tourist information 401tours 398travel to/from 401travel within 402

Berat 49-51, 50bicycle travel, see cyclingBiron, Ernst Johann 243Bitola 306-7Bjelašnica 81Black Lake 285Black Sea beaches 18, 18Black Sea coast 109-14Blagaj 86-7Blagaj Tekke 86-7Bled Island 438Blue Eye 57boat tours

Lake Bled 438Lake Ohrid 300Moscow 371

boat travel 475, 476bobsledding 245Bohemia 160-8Bojnice Castle 419Bolshoi Theatre 373border crossings 231,

309, 477

Bosnia & Hercegovina 74-91, 76

accommodation 74, 75, 89climate 74costs 75food 74, 75highlights 76itineraries 75LGBT+ travellers 89opening hours 90public holidays 90safety 90travel seasons 74travel to/from 75, 90-1travel within 91visas 90

Bovec 442-3Boyana 100Brajčino 305Bran Castle 348Braşov 346-9, 347Bratislava 413-20, 414-15

accommodation 416-17activities 415-16climate 410drinking & nightlife 417entertainment 417-18festivals & events 416food 417history 413shopping 418sights 413, 415tourist information 418tours 416travel to/from 418-19travel within 419

Bratislava Castle 413Brest 68-71breweries

Jan Olbracht 335Old Town Brewery 296Pilsner Urquell Brewery

160-1Pravda Beer Theatre 458

bridgesArslanagić Bridge 88


501IN

DEX B

- CCharles Bridge 152Old Stone Bridge 83Stari Most (Mostar) 83Tara Bridge 286Triple Bridge 433

Brno 168-71Bucharest 340-6, 342

accommodation 343climate 338drinking & nightlife 344entertainment 344-5food 344shopping 345sights 341, 343tourist information 345travel to/from 345travel within 345-6

Bucovina 354Budapest 11, 200-9, 202,

204, 10-11accommodation 205-6drinking & nightlife

207-8entertainment 208festivals & events 205food 206-7internet access 208medical services 208-9shopping 208sights 200-5tourist offices 209travel to/from 209travel within 209

budget 23, see also indi-vidual locations

Budva 282Bulgaria 92-115, 94


93, 114climate 92costs 93food 92, 93highlights 94internet access 114itineraries 93language 482-3LGBT+ travellers 114opening hours 114public holidays 114telephone services 114-15travel seasons 92travel to/from 93, 115travel within 115

Bulgarian language 482-3Burgas 112-13bus travel 475, 476business hours 470Butrint 54

Ccable cars

Bovec 442Dubrovnik 137Mt Tâmpa 346Sarajevo Cable Car 77, 79Tatranská Lomnica 422Zakopane 325

camping 464-5Canyon Matka 297-8canyoning 287Čara 136car travel 475, 476-8

driving licences 476hazards 478hire 477road rules 478

Carpathian Mountains 324-6

Casa Vlad Dracul 349castles, fortresses &

palaces 24Asen’s Fortress 105Belgrade Fortress 395Bendery Fortress 274Bled Castle 438Bojnice Castle 419Bran Castle 348Bratislava Castle 413Brest Fortress 70Catherine Palace 386Cēsis Castle 246Český Krumlov State

Castle 164Citadel (Sighişoara) 349Citadel (Visegrád) 210-11City Walls & Forts

(Dubrovnik) 12, 137, 12Devín Castle 419-20Diocletian’s Palace 130-1Eger Castle 218Festetics Palace 213Fort Lawrence 139Fortica 135Gjirokastra Castle 51-2Golubac Fortress 407Hrodna 71-2Kalaja 49Karlštejn Castle 159-60Kaštilac 132King Nikola Museum 284Klis Fortress 133Kotor City Walls 281-2Kremlin (Suzdal) 376Kuressaare Castle 194-5Ljubljana Castle 433Lower Town Wall (Tallinn)

183-4Lublin Castle 322

Malbork Castle 332, 25Mir Castle 68Moscow Kremlin 363,

364-5Nyasvizh Castle 68Old Royal Palace 147Ornamental Palace 216Ostrožac Fortress 89Pavlovsk Great Palace

386Peter & Paul Fortress

384-5Petrovaradin Fortress

402Prague Castle 147, 148Predjama Castle 444Prizren Fortress 229Râşnov Fortress 348Rector’s Palace 137Reök Palace 216Royal Castle 311Royal Palace (Budapest)

201Royal Palace (Visegrád)

211Rozafa Fortress 55Rundāle Palace 243Soroca Fortress 272Špilberk Castle 169Spiš Castle 424Trakai Castle 256Tsarevets Fortress 107Turaida Museum Reserve

245Tvrdina Kale Fortress 293Vyšehrad Citadel 154Wawel Royal Castle

316-17Winter Palace 379

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

Catherine Palace 386caves

Cave Vrelo 298Dobšinská Ice Cave 425Lipa Cave 284Postojna Cave 443-4Škocjan Caves 444-5

Cavtat 141cell phones 22, 472cemeteries

Antakalnis Cemetery 253Capuchin Monastery 169Lychakivsky Cemetery

457Mirogoj 120Partisan Memorial

Cemetery 83Černý, David 153, 154Cēsis 246

Český Krumlov 20, 164-7, 165, 4, 20

Cetinje 283-5Chagall, Marc 69children, travel with 466Chişinău 266-71, 268Chornobyl 453churches & cathedrals

Aleksander Nevski Cathedral 95

Alexander Nevsky Ortho-dox Cathedral 181

Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 366

Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 375

Basilica of St Stephen 202-3

Benedictine Abbey Church 215

Black Church 346Blue Church 413Boyana Church 100Cathedral of Christ the

Saviour 370Cathedral of St Barbara

160Cathedral of St Domnius

131Cathedral of St Elizabeth

426Cathedral of St George

445Cathedral of St John the

Baptist (Lublin) 323Cathedral of St John the

Baptist (Wrocław) 327Cathedral of the

Assumption 137-8Cathedral of the

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary 120

Church of Our Lady Before Týn 149

Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno 101

Church of St James 149Church of St John the

Baptist 440Church of Sveta Bogo-

rodica Perivlepta 302Church of Sveti Andrej

298Church of Sveti Jovan at

Kaneo 301-2, 16Church of the Dormition

of St Mary 49-50Church of the Holy

Cross 311Church of the Interces-

sion on the Nerl 375

IND

EX C- G

502churches & cathedrals

continuedChurch of the Saviour on

the Spilled Blood 379Esztergom Basilica 211Hercegovačka Gračanica

87-8Kalvária 418Loreta 148Matthias Church 201, 10Mosque Church 214Museum of the Infant

Jesus of Prague 153Nativity of Christ

Cathedral 238Nativity of Christ Metro-

politan Cathedral 267Plaošnik 302Poznań Cathedral 329Rīga Cathedral 235Sedlec Ossuary 160St Anastasia’s Cathedral

127St Anne’s Church 253St Basil’s Cathedral 366,

7, 14St Blaise’s Church 138St Donatus’ Church 126-7St Euphemia’s Church

124St Francis Xavier Church

& Monastery 257St Isaac’s Cathedral 379St James’ Cathedral 128St Lawrence’s Cathedral

129St Mark’s Cathedral 136St Mary’s Basilica 317St Mary’s Church 332St Mary’s Evangelical

Church 350St Mary’s Lutheran

Cathedral 181St Michael the Archangel

Church 257-8St Michael’s Church 353St Moritz Cathedral 172St Nicholas Brotherly

Church 69St Nicholas’ Church

(Cavtat) 141St Nicholas Church

(Prague) 152St Olaf’s Church 183St Peter’s Church 235St Sophia’s Cathedral

452

St Tryphon’s Cathedral 281

St Vitus Cathedral 147Sveta Bogorodica Bol-

nička & Sveti Nikola Bolnički 302

Sveta Petka Samardzhi-iska Church 95

Sveta Sofia Church 95Sveta Sofija Cathedral

302Sveti Georgi Rotunda 95Sveti Sava Temple 397-8Sveti Spas Church 293,

295Sveti Stefan Church 111Vilnius Cathedral 251Wawel Cathedral 317

City Walls & Forts (Dubrovnik) 12, 137, 12

climate 22, see also individual locations

Cluj-Napoca 352-5communist relics 177consulates 467credit cards 470Croatia 11, 116-43, 118-19

accommodation 116, 117, 142

climate 116costs 117food 116, 117highlights 118internet resources 117itineraries 117language 483-4opening hours 142public holidays 142-3telephone services 143travel seasons 116travel to/from 117, 143travel within 143

Croatian language 483-4culture 26Curonian Spit 18, 261-2, 18currency 22cycling 476

Bratislava 415-16Curonian Spit 18, 18

Czech language 484-5Czech Republic 144-75,

146accommodation 144,

145, 173climate 144costs 145food 144, 145highlights 146internet resources 145itineraries 145

language 484-5legal matters 173LGBT+ travellers 174opening hours 174public holidays 174telephone services 174tourist offices 174travel seasons 144travel to/from 145, 174-5travel within 175

DDalmatia 126-42dangers, see safetyDanube Bend 210-12Danube Delta 351Danubiana Meulensteen

Art Museum 420Debrecen 217Đerdap National Park 407Devín Castle 419-20Dihovo 305disabilities, travellers with,

see accessible travelDobšinská Ice Cave 425Dragalevtsi 100drinks 25-6driving, see car travelDruskininkai’s 258Dubrovnik 136-42, 138-9Durmitor National Park

285-8

EEastern Slovakia 424-8Eger 217-19electricity 467embassies 467Estonia 178-97, 180


climate 178costs 179food 178, 179highlights 180itineraries 179language 486legal matters 195LGBT+ travellers 195opening hours 195-6public holidays 196telephone services 196travel seasons 178travel to/from 179, 196-7travel within 197

Estonian language 486Esztergom 211exchange rates 23

Ffarmhouse accommodation

465festivals & events 28-32

Budapest Spring Festival 29, 205

Christmas Markets 32Coffee Festival 31Dubrovnik Summer

Festival 31Easter Festival of Sacred

Music 29EXIT Festival 30, 403Festival of Medieval Arts

& Crafts 30Golden Grapes Festival

28, 102International Labour

Day 29Kurentovanje 28Music Biennale Zagreb

29Nišville International

Jazz Festival 31, 406Ohrid Summer Festival

30, 303Prague Spring & Fringe

29Rose Festival 29, 108Sarajevo Film Festival 31Slavyansky Bazaar 30, 69St John’s Day 30Sziget Festival 31, 205Východná 30White Nights 30Wine Festival 32, 267

food 25-6, see also individ-ual locations

fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces

GGagauzia 272-3Galičica National Park 301Galičnik 299galleries, see museums &

galleriesgay travellers 469, see also

LGBT+ travellersGdańsk 330-4, 331Gjirokastra 51-2Golden Ring 375-8Golem Grad 301Goli Vrâh 100Gorno Nerezi 297Gospa od Škrpjela 279Great Masurian Lakes 335Grūtas Park 258, 176guesthouses 465Gyógy-tó 214


503IN

DEX H

- LHhealth 467-8Hercegovina, see Bosnia &

HercegovinaHévíz 214, 17High Tatras 15, 421-4, 15hiking 25

Durmitor National Park 286

High Tatras 15, 421, 15Konjic 83Mt Vodno 297Peaks of the Balkans 227Pelister National Park 305Rugova Valley 227Smokovec Resort Towns

422Theth 57Tihany 215Valbona 57Via Dinarica Hiking

Trail 286Vitosha Nature Park 100

Himara 54historic sites 24-5

Astronomical Clock 149Auschwitz-Birkenau


Civil Defence Shelter 172Cloth Hall 317, 15Cold War Tunnel 52D-0 ARK 83Diocletian’s Palace 130-1Hill of Crosses 260John Lennon Wall 152-3Majdanek 322Memento Park 201Red Cross Concentration

Camp 406Red Square 14, 363-6Roman Amphitheatre 103Trinity Hill 65

hitching 478Holešovice 154holidays 471homestays 465hostels 465-6hot springs 214, 258hotels 466Hradčany 147-8Hrodna 71-2Hungarian language 486-8Hungary 198-221, 200


199, 219climate 198costs 199

food 198, 199, 25highlights 200itineraries 199language 486-8legal matters 219LGBT+ travellers 219opening hours 220public holidays 220telephone services 220travel seasons 198travel to/from 199, 220-1travel within 221

Hvar Island 11, 134-6, 3Hvar Town 134, 11

Iice skating 185insurance 468, 477internet access 468-9internet resources 23islands

Bled Island 438Golem Grad 301Gospa od Škrpjela 279Hvar Island 134-6Korčula Island 136Lokrum 140Margaret Island 201New Holland 385St Anastasia Island 112Sveti Ivan 113

Istria 124-5itineraries 33-40, 33, 34,

35, 36, 38, 39, 40, see also individual locations

Ivanova Korita 283

JJahorina 81Jajce 89Janče 299Jewish heritage 163

Bratislava 415Jewish Culture Festival 30Krakow 319Łódź 315Lublin 322Odesa 459Prague 149Vilnius 251Vitsebsk 69Warsaw 311Zamość 324

Josefov 149Julian Alps 438-41Juodkrantė 262Jūrmala 242-3

KKadriorg Park 184-5Kalamaja 184Karaite people 257Karlovy Vary 167-8Karlštejn 159-60Katarinin Trg 120Kaunas 257-9kayaking 256, 298Kazanlâk 108Kecskemét 216Keszthely 213-14Khatyn 68Klaipėda 259-61Konjic 83Koprivshtitsa 106-7Korčula Island 136Košice 426-8Kosovo 222-31, 224


border crossings 231climate 222costs 223food 222, 223highlights 224internet resources 223itineraries 223LGBT+ travellers 230opening hours 230public holidays 230safety 230telephone services 230travel seasons 222travel to/from 223, 230-1travel within 231visas 230

Kotor 12, 279-82, 280, 12, 37

Kraków 15, 316-22, 318, 15accommodation 319-20drinking & nightlife 320entertainment 321food 320sights 316-17, 319tourist information 321travel to/from 321-2travel within 322

Ksamil 53-4Kuldīga 243-4Kuressaare 194-5Kutná Hora 160Kyiv 452-7, 454-5

accommodation 452-3climate 448drinking & nightlife 456entertainment 456food 453, 456

sights 452travel within 457

LLahemaa National Park

189-90Lake Balaton 17, 212-15Lake Bled 438-40Lake Bohinj 440-1Lake Ohrid 16, 300-1lakes

Black Lake 285Great Masurian Lakes

335Lake Balaton 17, 212-15Lake Bled 438-40Lake Bohinj 440-1Lake Koman 56Lake Ohrid 16, 300-1Lake Prespa 301Morskie Oko 324Pühajärv 190

languages 22, 481-97, see also individual languages

Latvia 232-47, 234accommodation 232,

233, 246climate 232costs 233food 232, 233highlights 234internet resources 233itineraries 233language 488LGBT+ travellers 246opening hours 246public holidays 246-7telephone services 247travel seasons 232travel to/from 233travel within 247

Latvian language 488legal matters 469Lenin’s Mausoleum 363,

366lesbian travellers 469, see

also LGBT+ travellersLevoča 424LGBT+ travellers 469

Albania 58Bosnia & Hercegovina 89Bulgaria 114Czech Republic 174Estonia 195Hungary 219Kosovo 230Latvia 246Lithuania 262

504

IND

EX L- M

LGBT+ travellers continuedNorth Macedonia 307Poland 336Romania 357Russia 389Serbia 408Slovakia 428Ukraine 461

Lithuania 248-63, 250accommodation 248,

249, 262climate 248costs 249food 248, 249highlights 250internet resources 249itineraries 249language 488-9LGBT+ travellers 262opening hours 262telephone services 262travel seasons 248travel to/from 249, 263travel within 263

Lithuanian language 488-9Ljubljana 432-8, 434-5

accommodation 433-5climate 430drinking & nightlife 436entertainment 436-7food 435-6sights 432-3tourist information 437travel to/from 437travel within 437-8

Łódź 315Lokrum 140Lublin 322-4Lviv 21, 457-9

MMacedonia, see North

Macedonia 290Malá Strana 152-3Malbork Castle 332, 25Małopolska 322-4maps 469Margaret Island 201Mariinsky Theatre 387markets

Balti Jaama Turg 188Dolac Market 120Halles Market 254Kamaroŭski Rynak 65

Nagycsarnok 208Rīga Central Market

238-9mausoleums

Lenin’s Mausoleum 363, 366

Njegoš Mausoleum 283Račić Family Mausoleum

141Mavrovo National Park

298-9Melnik 102Mezhyhirya 453Minsk 21, 63-8, 64, 21

accommodation 65-6drinking & nightlife 66entertainment 67food 66itineraries 63medical services 67shopping 67sights 63-5tourist offices 67tours 65travel to/from 67travel within 67-8

Mir 68mobile phones 22, 472Moldova 264-75, 266

accommodation 264, 265

climate 264costs 265food 264, 265highlights 266internet resources 265itineraries 265opening hours 275public holidays 275telephone services 275travel seasons 264travel to/from 265, 275travel within 275visas 275

monasteries & conventsArbore Monastery 354Bachkovo Monastery

105Cave Monastery 272Dobrilovina Monastery

286Dominican Monastery &

Museum 138-9Franciscan Monastery &

Museum 139Gračanica Monastery

229Humor Monastery 354Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra

452

Moldoviţa Monastery 354

Noul Neamţ Monastery 273

Ostrog Monastery 285Our-Lady-of-the-Snow

Monastery 141Patriarchate of Peć 228Rila Monastery 101-2Saviour Monastery of St

Euthymius 376Sveta Bogorodica

Monastery 297-8Sveti Jovan Bigorski

Monastery 298-9Sveti Naum Monastery

300Sveti Pantelejmon

Monastery 297Tipova Cave Monastery

272Trinity Monastery of St

Sergius 377Visoki Dečani Monastery

228Voroneţ Monastery 354

money 22, 23, 466-7, 469-70

Montenegro 276-89, 278accommodation 276,

277, 288climate 276costs 277food 276, 277highlights 278internet resources 277itineraries 277opening hours 288public holidays 289telephone services 289travel seasons 276travel to/from 277, 289travel within 289

monumentsBuzludzha 177, 176-7Freedom Monument 238Sea Organ 126Sun Salutation 126

Moravia 168-73Moscow 363-74, 368-9

accommodation 371drinking & nightlife 372entertainment 373food 371-2shopping 373-4sights 363, 366-7, 370-1tourist information 374tours 371travel to/from 374travel within 374

Moscow Kremlin 363, 364-5

mosquesGazi Husrev-beg Mosque

77Hajji Alija Mosque 87, 2

Mostar 19, 82-6, 84, 19motorcycle travel 475,

476-8mountains 25

Accursed Mountains 56-8, 17

Carpathian Mountains 324-6

High Tatras 15, 421-4, 15Mt Lovćen 283Mt Tâmpa 346Mt Triglav 19, 441, 19Mt Vitosha 100Mt Vodno 297Tatra Mountains 420-4, 5Vogel 440

Mramor 229Mt Triglav 19, 441, 19Mt Vitosha 100Mt Vodno 297Muhu 193-4museums & galleries 26

Aleksander Nevski Crypt 95

Amber Gallery 261Apple Museum 152Archaeological Museum

(Nesebâr) 111Archaeological Museum

(Sofia) 95Archaeological Museum

(Sozopol) 113Archaeological Museum

(Split) 131Archaeological Museum

(Varna) 109-10Archaeological Museum

(Zadar) 127Archaeological Museum

(Zagreb) 121Archaeological Museum

of Macedonia 293Archdiocesan Museum

172Army Museum

(Chişinău) 267Arsenāls Exhibition

Hall 238Art Mill 210Art Museum Rīga Bourse

235Auschwitz-Birkenau


Balabanov House 103


505IN

DEX M

Baltazar Bogišić Collection 141

Belarusian State Art Museum 64-5

Brewery Museum 161Brukenthal Palace 351Bukovac House 141Bunk’Art 45Bunk’Art 2 45, 177Castle Museum

(Budapest) 201Castle Museum

(Esztergom) 211Castle Museum & Tower

(Český Krumlov) 164Christian Museum 211City Museum of

Ljubljana 433Croatian Museum of

Naïve Art 120Danubiana Meulensteen

Art Museum 420Defence of Brest

Fortress Museum 70Dudutki 68Egon Schiele Art

Centrum 165Emin Gjiku Ethnographic

Museum 225Estonian National

Museum 191Estonian Open-Air

Museum 184Estonian Print & Paper

Museum 191Ethnographic Museum

(Berat) 50Ethnographical Museum

(Plovdiv) 103European Solidarity

Centre 331-2Former Ceauşescu

Residence 341Fryderyk Chopin

Museum 311Galerija 11/07/95 77Gallery of Matica Srpska

402-3Gediminas Castle &

Museum 251Grūtas Park 258, 176György Ráth Museum

203, 205Hamam Museum 83Helikon Palace Museum

213History Museum

(Cetinje) 284History Museum of

BiH 79History Museum of

Lithuania Minor 260

History of Odesa Jews Museum 459-60

Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 251

House of Leaves 45House of Terror 203Hungarian Jewish Mu-

seum & Archives 203Hungarian National

Gallery 201Hungarian National

Museum 203Kableshkov House 106Kadriorg Art Museum

184-5Kajtaz House 83Karaite Ethnographic

Museum 257Kaunas Picture Gallery

258Klaipėda Castle Museum

260Kordopulov House 102Kuldīga Historic Museum

244Kumu 185, 27Kunstkamera 384Latvian National

Museum of Art 238Lennusadam 184Lobkowicz Palace 147-8Maironis Lithuanian

Literary Museum 257Marc Chagall Art Center

69Marc Chagall House

Museum 69Maritime Museum of

Montenegro 281Marubi National Pho-

tography Museum 55Meštrović Gallery 131-2Miodrag Dado Ðurić

Gallery 284MK Čiurlionis National

Museum of Art 258MO Museum 253Montenegrin Art Gallery

284Moscow Kremlin 363,

364-5Mucha Museum 153Muhu Museum 194Museum Fotoateliér

Seidel 164-5Museum of Broken

Relationships 120Museum of City History

413Museum of Contempo-

rary Art (Belgrade) 395

Museum of Contem-porary Art (North Macedonia) 293

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity & Genocide 1992-1995 77

Museum of Decorative Arts & Design 237-8

Museum of Genocide Victims 253

Museum of Jewish Culture 415

Museum of Kosovo 225Museum of Modern

Art 137Museum of New Art 193Museum of Railway

Technology 69Museum of Roses 108Museum of Socialist

Art 95Museum of the 1989

Revolution 355Museum of the Great

Patriotic War 63Museum of the Infant

Jesus of Prague 153Museum of the Ninth

Fort 258Museum of War, Territory

of Peace 70Museum of WWII 330-1Museum of Yugoslavia

395, 176Museum on Water – Bay

of Bones 300National Archaeological

Museum 46National Archaeology

& History Museum (Chişinău) 267

National Art Museum 341

National Art Museum (Chişinău) 267

National Gallery of Arts 45

National Gallery of Kosovo 225

National Gallery of Macedonia 293

National History Museum 45

National Maritime Museum 332

National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror 153

National Museum (Belgrade) 395-7

National Museum (Prague) 153

National Museum of BiH 79

National Museum of Ethnography & Natural History (Chişinău) 267

National Museum of History (Boyana) 100

National Museum of Lithuania 251-2

National Museum of Montenegro 284

National Museum of Slovenia 433

Old Town Hall (Toruń) 334

Onufri Museum 49-50Orheiul Vechi Exhibition

Centre 272Oslekov House 106Palace of the Grand

Dukes of Lithuania 251Panorama of Racławice

326Pharmacy History

Collection 353POLIN Museum of the

History of Polish Jews 311, 162-3

Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre 328-9

Prague City Museum 153Prague Jewish Museum

149Pushkin Museum of Fine

Arts 367, 370Red Cross Concentration

Camp 406Rīga History & Naviga-

tion Museum 235Rodošto & Mikluš Prison

426Rovinj City Museum 124Royal Castle 311Russian Museum 378-9Rynek Underground 317Saaremaa Museum 195Sacred Art Museum 129Sarafkina Kâshta 107Sarajevo City Hall 77Schindler’s Factory 319Site of Witness &

Memory Museum 55Split City Museum 131Stalin Line Museum 68State Hermitage

Museum 16, 379, 380-1, 16

State Tretyakov Gallery Main Branch 366

Storno House & Collection 211

506

IND

EX M- R

museums & galleries continued

Story of Prague Castle 147

Techmania Science Centre 161

Tiraspol National History Museum 273

Tolerance Centre 251Toruń Gingerbread

Museum 334Trakai History Museum

256Tunnel of Hope 79University of Tartu

Museum 191War Childhood Museum

79War Photo Exhibition 83War Photo Limited 137Warsaw Rising Museum

311Witches’ Hill 262Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

214Ў Gallery of Contempo-

rary Art 64

Nnational parks & reserves

Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 71

Curonian Spit 261-2Đerdap National Park 407Durmitor National Park

285-8Galičica National Park

301Hortobágy National

Park 217Lahemaa National Park

189-90Lovćen National Park 283Marjan Forest Park 132Mavrovo National Park

298-9Mt Dajti National Park 45Pelister National Park

305-6Plaiul Fagului (Land of

Beeches) Natural Sci-entific Reserve 273

Plitvice Lakes National Park 125-6

Prutul de Jos (Lower Prut) Biosphere Reserve 273

Slovenský Raj National Park 425-6

Tara National Park 407Trakai 256Triglav National Park 441Una National Park 88-9Vitosha Nature Park 100

Nesebâr 111-12Nevsky Prospekt 378nightlife 26-7, see also

individual locationsNiš 406-8Njeguši 283North Macedonia 290-

307, 292accommodation 290, 291climate 290costs 291food 290, 291highlights 292internet resources 291itineraries 291language 489-90LGBT+ travellers 307opening hours 307public holidays 307travel seasons 290travel to/from 291, 307travel within 307

North Macedonian language 489-90

Nové Město 153-4Novi Pazar 403Novi Sad 402-5, 404Nyasvizh 68

OOdesa 459-61Ohrid 301-5, 302-3old towns 24Olomouc 171-3opening hours 470Orheiul Vechi 271-2Otepää 190-1outdoor activities 26,

see also individual activities

Ppalaces, see castles,

fortresses & palacesPaneriai 256parks & gardens

Gorky Park 367Grūtas Park 258, 176Letná Gardens 154Parcul Catedralei 266-7Petřín 153

Royal Garden 148Sofia City Garden 96VDNKh 370

Parnidis Dune 261Pärnu 192-3passports 474Pavlovsk 386Peaks of the Balkans 227Peć 228-9Pécs 214-15Peja 228-9Pelister National Park

305-6pensions 465Perast 279Peterhof 386photography 470Piran 445-6Pirita 185planning

basics 22-3budgeting 23calendar of events 28-32family travel 466 highlights 10-21internet resources 23itineraries 33-40, 33,

34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 40

travel seasons 22Plitvice Lakes National

Park 125-6Plovdiv 103-6, 104Plzeň 160-4Počitelj 87Poland 308-37, 310


business hours 336climate 308costs 309drinking 309food 308, 309highlights 310itineraries 309language 490-2LGBT+ travellers 336money 336public holidays 336telephone services 337travel seasons 308travel to/from 309, 337travel within 337

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews 311, 162-3

Polish language 490-2Pomerania 330-6Poprad 420-1

Porto Montenegro 281postal services 470-1Postojna 443-4Postojna Cave 443-4Poznań 328-30Prague 12, 147-59, 150-1, 12

accommodation 154-5climate 144drinking & nightlife 156-7entertainment 157-8festivals & events 154food 155-6medical services 158sights 147-54tourist offices 158tours 154travel to/from 158travel within 158-9

Prague Castle 147, 148Prague Spring festival 154Predjama Castle 444Pristina 224-7, 226Prizren 21, 229-30, 21public holidays 471Pupnat 136

Rrafting

Berat 50-1Durmitor National Park

286-7Jajce 89Konjic 83

Râşnov Fortress 348, 13Red Square 14, 363-6Republic of Užupis 251Rīga 14, 235-42, 236-7, 14

accommodation 239climate 232drinking & nightlife 240-1entertainment 241food 239-40sights 235, 237-9tourist offices 241tours 239travel to/from 241travel within 241-2

Rila Monastery 101-2Roman Forum 126Romania 338-59, 340


339, 357business hours 357-8climate 338costs 339drinking 339food 338, 339


507IN

DEX R

- Shighlights 340internet resources 339itineraries 339language 492-3legal matters 357LGBT+ travellers 357money 357, 358public holidays 358safety 358telephone services 358tourist information 358travel seasons 338travel to/from 358-9travel within 359

Romanian Athenaeum 341Romanian language 492-3Rovinj 124-5Rugova Valley 227ruins, see archaeological

sitesRussia 360-91, 362


361, 388border crossings 477business hours 389climate 360costs 361drinking 361food 360, 361highlights 362internet access 388itineraries 361language 493-4legal matters 388LGBT+ travellers 389money 389public holidays 389safety 389telephone services 389time 389toilets 389tourist information 390travel seasons 360travel to/from 361,

374, 390travel within 390-1visas 390

Russian language 493-4Russian Museum 378-9

SSaaremaa 194-5safety 471-2

Bosnia & Hercegovina 90hitching 478Kosovo 230Romania 358

Russia 389Serbia 408train travel 479-80Ukraine 461-2

Sarajevo 77-82, 78accommodation 79-80drinking 80-1entertainment 80-1food 80medical services 81sights 77-9tourist offices 81travel to/from 82travel within 82

Saranda 53scams 471scenery 26senior travellers 467Serbia 392-409, 394


business hours 408climate 392costs 393drinking 393food 392, 393highlights 394itineraries 393language 483-4LGBT+ travellers 408money 408public holidays 408safety 408telephone services 409travel seasons 392travel to/from 393, 409travel within 409

Serbian language 483-4Sergiev Posad 377-8Shipka 108Shkodra 54-6Šibenik 128Sibiu 350-2Sighişoara 349-50Sigulda 245-6Silesia 326-8skiing

Bjelašnica 81Bovec 442Durmitor National Park

287Jahorina 81Lake Bled 438Mavrovo National Park

298Otepää 190Rugova Valley 227Soča Valley 442

Tatranská Lomnica 422Vitosha Nature Park 100Vitranc Cup, SloveniaZakopane 324

Škocjan Caves 444-5Skopje 292-7, 294-5

accommodation 295-6activities 295drinking & nightlife 296entertainment 296-7festivals & events 295food 296shopping 297sights 293, 295tourist offices 297tours 295travel to/from 297travel within 297

Slavyansky Bazaar 69Slovak language 494-5Slovakia 410-29, 412

accommodation 410, 411business hours 428climate 410costs 411food 410, 411highlights 412internet access 428internet resources 411itineraries 411language 494-5LGBT+ travellers 428money 428public holidays 428-9telephone services 429tourist information 429travel seasons 410travel to/from 411, 429travel within 429

Slovene language 495-6Slovenia 430-47, 432


business hours 446climate 430costs 431food 430, 431highlights 432itineraries 431language 495-6money 446public holidays 446-7telephone services 447travel seasons 430travel to/from 431, 447travel within 447

Slovenian Karst & Coast 443-6

Slovenský Raj National Park 425-6

Smíchov 154Smokovec Resort Towns

421-2Smokvica 136Sobornaya Ploshchad 366Soča Valley 442-3socialist art 258Sofia 95-101, 96-7

accommodation 97-8drinking & nightlife 98-9entertainment 99food 98medical services 99sights 95-6tourist offices 99tours 96-7travel to/from 99-100travel within 100-1

Sopron 211-12Soroca 272-3South Serbia 406-8Sozopol 113-14Spišské Podhradie 424-5Split 129-34, 130Srđ 137St Anastasia Island 112St Basil’s Cathedral 366,

7, 14St Petersburg 378-88,

382-3accommodation 385drinking & nightlife 387entertainment 387food 385-7sights 378-9, 384-5tourist information

387-8travel to/from 374, 388travel within 388

Staré Město 148-9, 152Stari Most 83State Hermitage Museum

16, 379, 380-1, 16Štrbské Pleso 423-4Subotica 403Suzdal 376-7Sveti Ivan 113swimming 201, 420synagogues 163

Choral Synagogue 251Great Synagogue

(Bucharest) 341Great Synagogue

(Budapest) 203, 162Old-New Synagogue 149Synagogue in the

Fortress 355

508

IND

EX S- Z

Szeged 216-17Szentendre 210

TTallinn 18, 181-9, 182-3, 18

accommodation 185-6activities 185drinking & nightlife 188food 186-8shopping 188sights 181-5tourist offices 188tours 185travel to/from 188-9travel within 189

Tara Canyon 285-6Tara National Park 407Tartu 191-2Tatra Mountains 420-4, 5Tatranská Lomnica 422-3Telč 168telephone services 472Telliskivi Creative City 184theft 472Theth 57-8, 17Thrace 105tick-borne encephalitis

263Tihany 215Tikveš 304time 22, 472Timișoara 355-7Tipova 272tipping 336, 358, 470Tirana 45-9, 47

accommodation 46drinking & nightlife 48food 46, 48sights 45-6tourist offices 48tours 46travel to/from 48-9travel within 49

Tiraspol 273-5, 2Tivat 281

toilets 472-3Tokaj 218tombs

Ostrusha Tomb 108Shushmanets Tomb 108Thracian Tomb of

Kazanlâk 108Toompea 181Toruń 334-6tourist information 473,

see also individual locations

train travel 475, 479-80Trakai 256-7Transdniestr 273-5Transylvania 13, 346-55travel seasons 464,

see also individual locations

travel to/from Eastern Europe 474-5

travel within Eastern Europe 23, 475-80

Trebinje 87-8trekking, see hikingTriglav National Park 441Trogir 128-9Tsarskoe Selo 386

UUkraine 448-62, 450-1


business hours 461climate 448costs 449drinking 449food 448, 449highlights 450internet access 461itineraries 449language 496-7legal matters 461LGBT+ travellers 461money 461public holidays 461safety 461-2

telephone services 462travel seasons 448travel to/from 449, 462travel within 457, 462visas 462

Ukrainian language 496-7Ulcinj 282-3Una River Valley 88-9

Vvacations 471vaccinations 467Valbona 56-7Valley of the Beautiful

Women 218Varna 109-11Veliko Târnovo 107-9Ventspils 244-5Vevčani 300Vilnius 250-6, 252

accommodation 254drinking & nightlife 255entertainment 255food 254-5medical services 255sights 251-3tourist offices 255travel to/from 255-6travel within 256

visas 22, 473Visegrád 210-11Vitosha Nature Park 100Vitsebsk 69Vladimir 375-6Vlkolínec 420Vojvodina 402-5Vršič Pass 19, 442Vyšehrad 154

WWarsaw 310-16, 312

accommodation 313-14climate 308drinking & nightlife 314entertainment 314-15

food 314sights 311-12tourist information 315travel to/from 315-16travel within 316

water 468waterfalls

Boka Waterfall 442Kravica Waterfall 86Milančev Buk 89Savica Waterfall 440Štrbački Buk 89Ventas Rumba 244

Wawel Royal Castle 316-17weather 22websites 23Wielkopolska 328-30wineries

Melnik 102Mileştii Mici 270, 20Moldova 20, 270Tikveš 304Tokaj 218Tokaj Macik 427Valley of the Beautiful

Women 218women travellers 473work 473Wrocław 326-8

ZZadar 126-8Zagreb 120-4, 122

accommodation 121drinking 123entertainment 123food 121medical services 123sights 120-1tourist offices 123travel to/from 123travel within 123-4

Zakopane 324-6ziplining 287zoos 184


509

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Neil WilsonPoland Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents

of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Anthony HamCroatia, Slovenia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and the US.

Jessica LeeCroatia, Slovenia In 2011 Jessica swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing and since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia. She has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia. Jess has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia, and Vietnam guidebooks and her travel writing has appeared in Wanderlust maga-

zine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.com.

Kevin RaubSerbia Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the US and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly

high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).


Peter DragicevichBosnia & Hercegovina, Croatia, Montenegro After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of coun-tries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand,

his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Steve FallonHungary A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in journalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media companies and run-ning his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before mov-

ing to London in 1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www.steveslondon.com.

Anita IsalskaLithuania, Slovakia Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Francisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wi-fi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Cen-tral Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Vesna MaricNorth Macedonia Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.

MaSovaida MorganEstonia, Latvia MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Leonid RagozinRussia, Ukraine Leonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for Newsweek Russia. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave

Moscow and find a new home in Rīga.

Brana VladisavljevicSerbia Brana grew up in the former Yugoslavia and studied foreign languages and literature in Belgrade. She joined Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office in 2004 and has lost count of the phrasebook and guidebook titles she edited over the years. From 2014 to 2019, she was based in the London office as the Destination Editor for Eastern and Southeastern Europe. Brana looked after destinations stretching from the Russian Far East to the Greek islands but has a soft spot for her native

Western Balkans region.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415315th edition – October 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 370 4© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMark BakerBulgaria, Czech Republic, Romania, Slovenia Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other lead-ing travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he

worked as a journalist for The Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter (@markbakerprague), and read his blog: www.markbakerprague.com. Mark also contributed to the Plan and Survival Guide chapters.

Greg BloomBelarus, Moldova Greg is a freelance writer, editor, tour guide and travel planner based out of Manila and Anilao, Philippines. Greg began his writing career in the late ’90s in Ukraine, working as a journalist and later editor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly. As a freelance travel writer, he has con-tributed to some 40 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. In addition to writing, he organises customised adventure tours in north Palawan

and north Luzon (Philippines). Greg’s travel articles have been published in the Sydney Morning Herald, the South China Morning Post, BBC.com and the Toronto Globe and Mail, among many other publications. Accounts of his Lonely Planet trips over the years are at www.mytripjournal.com/bloomblogs.

Stuart ButlerAlbania, Kosovo Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives

on the beautiful beaches of Southwest France with his wife and two young children. He also works as a photographer and was a finalist in both the 2015 and 2016 Travel Photographer of the Year Awards. In 2015 he walked for six weeks with a Maasai friend across part of Kenya’s Maasai lands in order to gather material for a book he is writing (see www.walkingwiththemaasai.com). His web-site is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

Title PageContentsItinerariesEssential Eastern EuropeEastern Europe 101

Behind the ScenesWriter ThanksAcknowledgementsThis Book

IndexMap LegendOur Writers

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