©lonely planet publications pty ltd...
TRANSCRIPT
ContentsContents
Welcome to Kyoto ............ 4
Kyoto’s Top 10 ................... 6
What’s New ......................13
Need to Know ..................14
Top Itineraries .................16
If You Like… ......................18
Month by Month ..............21
With Kids ......................... 24
For Free ........................... 26
Like a Local ..................... 28
Eating .............................29Drinking & Nightlife.....36Entertainment ..............38Shopping ....................... 40Temples & Shrines .......42
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Kyoto 149
Survival Guide 183
Kyoto Maps 214
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Kyoto 44
Transport ...................... 184
Directory A–Z ............... 190
Language ...................... 198
Index ..............................208
Kyoto Today .................. 150
History ............................152
People & Culture .......... 164
Arts & Crafts ..................167
Architecture & Gardens.. 175
The Tea Ceremony ....... 180
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ............................ 46Kyoto Station Area .........48
Downtown Kyoto ............ 54
Central Kyoto .................. 69
Southern Higashiyama .. 79
Northern Higashiyama .. 92
Northwest Kyoto .......... 104
Arashiyama & Sagano ........................... 112
Kitayama Area & Greater Kyoto ................ 119
Day Trips from Kyoto ............................ 130
Sleeping..........................139
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Left: Nishiki Market (p 56 )
Above: Kiyomizu-dera (p 81 )
Right: Tōfuku-ji (p 76 )
DowntownKyoto
SouthernHigashiyama
Arashiyama& Sagano
CentralKyoto
Kyoto StationArea
NorthwestKyoto
NorthernHigashiyama
Kitayama Area &Greater Kyoto
p119
p104p112
p69
p48
p79
p92
p54
MA
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Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Kyoto Station Area . . .48Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Downtown Kyoto. . . . . 54Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .64Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .65Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
Central Kyoto . . . . . . . 69Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Southern Higashiyama . . . . . . . . 79Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .90Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Northern Higashiyama . . . . . . . . 92Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 102Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 102Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Northwest Kyoto . . . 104Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 111Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Arashiyama & Sagano . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Kitayama Area & Greater Kyoto . . . . . . 119Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Day Trips from Kyoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Nara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Osaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Miyama-chō . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 139
ExploreKyoto
44
Higashi Hongan-ji ............. 50
Nishiki Market ...................56
Kyoto Imperial Palace & Imperial Palace Park ......... 71
Kiyomizu-dera ................... 81
Chion-in ..............................82
Nanzen-ji ........................... 94
Ginkaku-ji ...........................95
Kinkaku-ji .........................106
Nijō-jō ...............................107
TOP SIGHTSKYOTO’S
45
Chris Rowthorn Chris has lived in Kyoto since 1992. Soon after his arrival, Chris started studying Japanese language and culture. In 1995 he became a regional correspondent for the Japan Times. He joined Lonely Planet in 1996 and has worked on guides to Kyoto, Tokyo, Japan and hiking in Japan. When not on the road, he seeks out Kyoto’s best restaurants, temples, hiking trails and gardens. Chris wrote a book in Japanese with professional guide Koko Ijuin, called Pro ga Oshieru: Genba no
Eigo Tsuyaku Gaido Skiru (Pro English Guide Skills), for Japanese guides who want to explain the country to Western tourists. He conducts walking tours of Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo. Check out his website at www.chrisrowthorn.com and his blog at www.insidekyoto.com.
Our Writer
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 401 4© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day One Southern Higashiyama (p 79 )
M Start your Kyoto experience by head-ing to the city’s most important (and
popular) sightseeing district: Southern Hi-gashiyama. This area contains the thickest concentration of worthwhile sights in Kyoto. See p 85 for a description of the main sight-seeing route here.
Northern Higashiyama (p 92 )
R If you have the energy after lunch, continue heading north along the
base of the Higashiyama mountains. Start at Nanzen-ji and follow the Path of Philoso-phy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) all the way to Ginkaku-ji, stopping at Hōnen-in along the way. See p 98 for a description of the main sightseeing route here.
Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )
N After dinner, head back to your lodg-ings (which may very well be located
in Downtown Kyoto). You’ll probably be pretty walked out if you’ve done both South-ern and Northern Higashiyama in one day, so a short amble around the streets of Down-town Kyoto will probably be suffi cient to round out this day.
Lunch Eat at a restaurant on Sanen-zaka/Ninen-zaka or on Sanjō-dōri.
Dinner Omen (p 100 ), a fabulous noo-dle restaurant, is close to Ginkaku-ji.
Day Two Arashiyama & Sagano (p 112 )
M After exploring the Higashiyama on Day One, you’ll want to head west to
the Arashiyama & Sagano district, which has a dense concentration of fi rst-rate sights. The typical route involves starting at Tenryū-ji and working your way north to Giō-ji or Adashino Nembutsu-ji. See p 115 for a description of the main sightseeing route here.
Northwest Kyoto (p 92 )
R It makes sense to stay on the west side of town in the afternoon of this day.
Take a taxi from the end of the morning’s route or lunch stop to Kinkaku-ji and/or Ryōan-ji. If you still have energy to burn, you can check out Myōshin-ji late in the afternoon.
Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )
N Like Day One, this is a pretty big day, with a fair bit of transport, so
you probably won’t feel like doing too much walking on this evening. Again, we recom-mend some strolling around Downtown Kyoto. The atmospheric lane of Pontochō is a great place to wander, as is Kiyamachi-dōri, particularly the stretch between Shijō-dōri and Gojō-dōri.
Lunch Eat near Keifuku Arashiyama Station or along the route at Komichi.
Dinner Head back downtown (p 58 ) to eat near your lodgings.
Top Itineraries
16
Day Three Southeast Kyoto (p 124 )
M You’ll probably be feeling like a break from the crowds about now.
For this reason we suggest heading to Southeast Kyoto. Here, you’ll fi nd two absolutely ripping attractions: Tōfuku-ji (don’t forget to enter the Hōjō Garden) and Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, Kyoto’s mind-blowing Shintō sanctuary.
Downtown Kyoto (p 54 )
R After exploring Southeast Kyoto in the morning and eating lunch
downtown, it makes sense to spend the afternoon exploring Downtown Kyoto and perhaps doing some shopping. Be sure to take a pass through the wonder-ful Nishiki Market, then visit one of the awesome ‘deppa-chika’ (department store basement food fl oors) at nearby Daimaru or Takashimaya department stores. Then, walk through the Teramachi Shop-ping Arcade. When the covered section runs out, keep following Teramachi as far as Marutamachi-dōri (the last few blocks contain some of Kyoto’s best tradi-tional shops).
Gion District (p 87 )
N This day involves less walking than the preceding two, so it’s a great day
to do our Gion evening walking tour (p 86 ).
Lunch There’s not much to eat near the above, so head downtown (p 58 ).
Dinner Eat dinner downtown (p 58 ) or across the river in Gion.
Day Four Kitayama Area (p 119 )
M Today’s the day to step off the beaten track and immerse yourself
in some greenery. Heading north into the Kitayama (Northern Mountains) is the perfect way to relax after three days of ur-ban sightseeing. Heading to Kurama and hiking over the hill and down to Kibune is our favourite day trip out of the city. Other options include Ōhara or Takao.
Central Kyoto (p 69 )
R If you spend the morning in the Ki-tayama, you will probably return to
Kyoto city in the early afternoon. If this is your last day in the city, you might want to spend the remainder of the day shopping for souvenirs in Downtown Kyoto. But, if you still have the energy for sightseeing, you might consider visiting the enclosed Zen world of Daitoku-ji. Other options include Nijō-jō or a stroll in the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park.
Downtown Kyoto (p 54 ) or Gion (p 87 )
N If you haven’t done it yet, try the Gion evening walking tour (p 86 ).
Otherwise, fi nd a bar downtown and rub shoulders with the locals as you reminisce about your time in the Old Capital.
Lunch Eat in Kurama, Kibune or Ōhara (pack a lunch for Takao).
Dinner Eat dinner downtown (p 58 ) or across the river in Gion.
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
214
Border Crossing
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
AirportCafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
Beach
Bus
Taxi
Embassy/Consulate
InternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Hospital/Medical
Bank
CampingSleeping
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
International
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
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Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & Activities
Sights Routes
Kyoto Maps
215
CENTRALKYOTO
KYOTOSTATION
AREA
NORTHWESTKYOTO NORTHERN
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2 Imperial Palace Area (p 219 )
3 Kyoto Station Area (p 220 )
4 Southern Higashiyama (p 222 )
5 Northern Higashiyama (p 224 )
6 Arashiyama & Sagano Area (p 227 )
7 Northwest Kyoto (p 228 )
8 Ohara (p 230 )
9 Kurama & Kibune (p 231 )
MAP INDEX
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HERN
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223
SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMAæ Top Sights (p81) û Drinking & Nightlife (p89) Chion-in........................................................D2 29 Bar Main Higashiyama...............................C4 Kiyomizu-dera.............................................D5 30 Gael Irish Pub.............................................. B2
31 Gion Finlandia Bar...................................... B3 æ Sights (p83) 32 Gion S........................................................... B2 Gion Corner .......................................(see 36) 33 Kisui..............................................................B3 1 Gion District.................................................B2 34 Pig & Whistle................................................B1 2 Kawai Kanjirō Memorial Hall .....................B5 3 Kennin-ji .......................................................B3 ý Entertainment (p90) 4 Kōdai-ji .........................................................D3 35 En.................................................................. C2 5 Kyoto National Museum ............................B6 36 Gion Corner................................................. B3 6 Maika ............................................................A3 37 Gion Odori ...................................................C2 7 Maruyama-kōen..........................................D2 38 Kyō Odori..................................................... A4 8 Ninen-zaka...................................................D4 39 Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko 9 Rokuharamitsu-ji ........................................B4 Evening .....................................................C3 10 Sanjūsangen-dō..........................................B7 40 Minami-za.................................................... B3 11 Sannen-zaka................................................D4 Miyako Odori..................................... (see 36) 12 Shōren-in ..................................................... D1 Tōzan-Bar.......................................... (see 44) 13 Yasaka-jinja .................................................C3
þ Shopping (p91) ú Eating (p87) 41 Kagoshin.......................................................C1 14 Asuka............................................................ D1 42 Takematsu ...................................................B1 15 Bamboo........................................................ C1 43 Tessai-dō.....................................................C3 16 Gion Karyō ...................................................B3 17 Hisago...........................................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p145) 18 Issen Yōshoku .............................................B2 Gion Hatanaka .................................. (see 39) 19 Kagizen Yoshifusa ......................................B2 44 Hyatt Regency Kyoto................................. B7 20 Kasagi-ya .....................................................D4 45 Kyoto Yoshimizu.........................................D2 21 Machapuchare ............................................A6 46 Ryokan Motonago ...................................... C3 22 Omen Kodai-ji..............................................D4 47 Ryokan Uemura..........................................C4 23 Ōzawa...........................................................B2 48 Sakara Kyoto................................................C1 24 Ryūmon........................................................ C1 49 Seikōrō......................................................... A5 25 Santōka........................................................ B1 50 Shiraume ..................................................... B2 26 Senmonten ..................................................B2 27 Shibazaki......................................................C5 28 Yagura ..........................................................B2
SOUTHERN
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RTHERN HIGASHIYAM
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226
NORTHERN HIGASHIYAMA Map on p224
æ Top Sights (p94) 29 Kailash ......................................................... C5 Ginkaku-ji .....................................................G2 30 Karako..........................................................B6 Nanzen-ji ......................................................F6 31 Okariba ........................................................ E5
32 Okutan ......................................................... F6 æ Sights (p96) 33 Omen.............................................................F2 1 Eikan-dō ...................................................... G6 34 Shinshindō Notre Pain Quotidien..............C1 2 Fureai-kan Kyoto Museum of 35 Torito............................................................ A5 Traditional Crafts.....................................C6 36 Zac Baran .................................................... C5 3 Heian-jingū...................................................C5 4 Hōnen-in.......................................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p102) 5 Konchi-in...................................................... E7 37 Kick Up..........................................................E7 6 Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art...............D6 38 Metro............................................................ A5 7 Kyoto Municipal Zoo...................................D6 8 Murin-an Villa ..............................................E6 ý Entertainment (p102) 9 Nanzen-in..................................................... F7 39 Kanze Kaikan Nō Theatre.......................... C7 10 Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in ...................................G7 11 National Museum of Modern Art..............C6 þ Shopping (p102) 12 Nomura Museum........................................ F6 40 Chion-ji Tezukuri-ichi..................................C1 13 Okazaki-kōen...............................................D6 41 Kyoto Handicraft Center...........................C5 14 Path of Philosophy 42 Tōzandō....................................................... C5 (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) .............................G2 43 Zōhiko .......................................................... C5 15 Reikan-ji ...................................................... G4 16 Tenju-an ....................................................... F7 ÿ Sleeping (p147)
44 Koto Inn ....................................................... C7 ú Eating (p100) 45 Kyoto Garden Ryokan Yachiyo..................E7 17 Au Temps Perdu .........................................C6 46 Three Sisters Inn Annex............................D5 18 Ayatori.......................................................... C1 47 Three Sisters Inn Main Building ...............D4 19 Café de 505 .................................................C6 48 Westin Miyako Hotel...................................E7 20 Cafe Proverbs 15:17.................................... C1 21 Cafe Terrazza..............................................G3 ï Information (p190) 22 Earth Kitchen Company.............................A5 49 Kyoto International Community 23 Falafel Garden ............................................. B1 House.........................................................E7 24 Gallery Coeur...............................................D5 50 Kyoto University Hospital .........................B4 25 Gōya...............................................................E1 26 Grotto ............................................................E1 ï Transport (p187) 27 Hinode Udon................................................ F5 51 Demachiyanagi Bicycle Parking 28 Hyōtei ...........................................................E6 Lot ..............................................................A1
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KIBUNE
KURAMA
Kibune-gawa
Kurama-gawa
Rte 361
Rte 3 8
Eizan Kurama
LineFunicular
Kuram
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(634m)
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æ Sights
(p122)
1 Kuram
a Onsen
..........................................E2
2 Kuram
a-dera ............................................D2
3 O
kuno-in Maō-den....................................B
2
4 Ō
sugi-gongen...........................................C
3
5 Sōjō-ga-dani Fudō-dō
..............................C2
6 Yuki-jinja....................................................D
3
ú Eating
(p123)
7 Aburaya-shokudō
.....................................D3
8 B
eniya........................................................B3
9 H
irobun ......................................................B1
10
Kibune C
lub ...............................................B1
11 N
akayoshi..................................................B1
12 Tochigiku...................................................B
2
13 Yōshūji ......................................................D3
ÿ Sleeping
(p148)
14 Ryokan U
genta..........................................B
1
KURAMA & KIBUN
E
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