©lonely planet publications pty ltd · bradley mayhew, lindsay brown, paul stiles nepal kathmandu...

Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown, Paul Stiles

Nepal

Kathmandup64

Pokharap206

The Terai &Mahabharat Range

p237Kathmandu to

Pokharap196

Around theKathmandu Valley

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Nepal . . . . . . 4Nepal Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Top 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Month by Month . . . . . . . 22Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Planning Your Trek . . . . . 30Outdoor Activities . . . . . 42Volunteering & Responsible Travel . . . . . 52Eat & Drink Like a Local 58Regions at a Glance . . . . .61

KATHMANDU . . . . . . 64Around Kathmandu . . . .115Swayambhunath. . . . . . . . 115

AROUND THE KATHMANDU VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . 120Around the Ring Road . . . . . . . . . . . 124Pashupatinath . . . . . . . . . 124Chabahil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Bodhnath (Boudha) . . . . . 128Kopan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134The Northern & Western Valley . . . . . . . 134Budhanilkantha . . . . . . . . 134Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park . . . . . . . . . . 135Patan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Bhaktapur . . . . . . . . . . . 152Around Bhaktapur . . . . 167Suriya Binayak Temple . . 167Thimi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Changu Narayan Temple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168The Northeastern Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Gokarna Mahadev . . . . . . 170Gokarna Forest . . . . . . . . . .171Sankhu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172The Southern Valley . . . 172Kirtipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Pharping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Around Pharping . . . . . . . 175Bungamati . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Khokana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Chapagaon . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Godavari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178The Valley Fringe . . . . . 180Nagarkot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Dhulikhel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Panauti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

Namobuddha . . . . . . . . . . 190Balthali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Beyond the Valley . . . . . 192Arniko Highway to Tibet. . 192The Road to Langtang . . . 193

KATHMANDU TO POKHARA . . . . . . . . 196The Trisuli River to Abu Khaireni . . . . . . . . . . . 198Manakamana . . . . . . . . . . 199Gorkha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Bandipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Dumre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205

POKHARA . . . . . . . . 206Around Pokhara . . . . . . 227Sarangkot . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Begnas Tal & Rupa Tal . . . 229Pokhara to Jomsom . . . 231Pokhara to Beni . . . . . . . . 231Beni to Tatopani . . . . . . . . 231Tatopani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Tatopani to Marpha . . . . . 232Marpha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Jomsom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

THE TERAI & MAHABHARAT RANGE . . . . . . . . . . . 237Central Terai . . . . . . . . . 241Narayangarh & Bharatpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Chitwan National Park . . . 243Siddharthanagar (Bhairawa) & Sunauli . . . 255Lumbini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258The Siddhartha Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Butwal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Tansen (Palpa) . . . . . . . . . 265

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

The Tribhuvan Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268Hetauda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Daman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Western Terai . . . . . . . . 270Nepalganj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Bardia National Park . . . . 272Sukla Phanta National Park . . . . . . . . . . 276Bhimdatta (Mahendranagar) . . . . . . . 277Eastern Terai . . . . . . . . . 278Birganj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Janakpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve . . . . . . . . 283Biratnagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Dharan to Hile . . . . . . . . . . 286Ilam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Around Ilam. . . . . . . . . . . . 289Kakarbhitta . . . . . . . . . . . . 289

TREKKING ROUTES . . . . . . . . . . 291Choosing a Trek . . . . . . 292Shorter Treks . . . . . . . . . . 292Life on the Trail . . . . . . . 292Routes & Conditions . . . . 292Sleeping & Eating. . . . . . . 293Everest Base Camp Trek . . . . . . . . . . . 294Annapurna Circuit Trek . . . . . . . . . . 301Annapurna Sanctuary Trek . . . . . . . 307Other Annapurna Treks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309Ghachok Trek . . . . . . . . . .309Ghandruk Loop . . . . . . . .309Panchase Trek . . . . . . . . . .309Annapurna Panorama . . .309Mardi Himal Trek . . . . . . .309Khopra Ridge . . . . . . . . . . 310

Langtang Valley Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Tamang Heritage Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Gosainkund Trek . . . . . . 315Restricted Area & Other Treks . . . . . . . . . . 317

BIKING, RAFTING & KAYAKING . . . . . . . . 319Mountain-Bike Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321The Scar Road from Kathmandu . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Kathmandu to Pokhara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Upper Mustang: Jomsom to Lo Manthang . . . . . . . . . . . 322Muktinath to Pokhara . . . 323Kathmandu Valley Loop via Nagarkot & Namobuddha . . . . . . . . . . 323The Rajpath from Kathmandu . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Pokhara to Sarangkot & Naudanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Rafting & Kayaking Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Trisuli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Bhote Kosi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Upper Sun Kosi . . . . . . . . . 326Seti Khola . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Upper Kali Gandaki . . . . . 326Marsyangdi . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Karnali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Sun Kosi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Tamur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Other Rivers . . . . . . . . . . . 328

Nepal Today . . . . . . . . . . 330

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332

People & Culture . . . . . 343

Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351

Arts & Architecture . . . 357

Environment & Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363

Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 374

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 385

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 399

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .415

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESPlanning Your Trek . . . . . 30

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 42

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 58

Trekking Routes . . . . . . 291

Biking, Rafting & Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . 319

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

Dhulikhel

Bhaktapur

KATHMANDU#•Swayambhunath

Bodhnath

PatanKirtipur

Nagarkot#•

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The Kathmandu Valley

A week gives you time to see the great cultural highlights of the Kathmandu Valley, including no fewer than six Unesco World Heritage Sites. Start off in Kathmandu with our walking tour south from Thamel to the stunning medieval temples and palaces of Durbar Sq. On day two, walk to the towering stupa of Swayambhunath and the under-appreciated National Museum. You can fill the afternoon with a walk around the famous stupa at the Tibetan centre of Bodhnath.

Make time for a day trip to Patan for its spectacular Durbar Sq and Patan Museum, combined with another great backstreet walking tour and dinner at one of the many great restaurants in Jawalakhel. Complete the trilogy of former royal kingdoms with a full-day visit to Bhaktapur, ideally with an overnight stay.

Next get your Himalayan kick with dawn mountain views at Nagarkot or Dhulikhel before returning to Kathmandu on foot or mountain bike via the earthquake-damaged temple at Changu Narayan. Fill another day by visiting Kirtipur and neighbouring towns in the southern valley. On your last day, take time for some serious shopping in Kathmandu or the fair-trade shops of Patan.

1 WEEK

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Mixing contemplative temple tours with a healthy dose of wilderness and adventure, this 500km route across Nepal is one part meditation mixed with two parts adrenaline.

Kick off at Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, 20km from the border crossing with India at Sunauli, or a short flight from Kathmandu. Take your time exploring this world map of Buddhist temples, then spend the next day at the little-visited archaeo- logical site of Tilaurakot, where the Buddha once ruled as a pampered prince.

From Lumbini, make a beeline for Chitwan National Park, budgeting two or three days to allow dawn and dusk safaris among the tigers and gharial.

From Chitwan take the day-long tourist bus to Pokhara for your first proper peek at the mountains. After enjoying the shops and cocktail bars of Lakeside, savour the views of Machhapuchhare from the World Peace Pagoda or lofty Sarangkot, or glide past the peaks at eye-level on a tandem paraglide.

Another long bus trip will take you to Kathmandu, where you can fill up three or four days with the pick of the Kathmandu Valley itinerary. If you want to break the trip, consider a detour to the charming and historic hill town of Bandipur.

Once in the valley, make time to explore the backstreets of Bhaktapur on our walk-ing tour, gain a deeper understanding of Buddhist art at Patan Museum and enjoy the views over the city at dusk from Swayambhunath. To escape Kathmandu’s traffic and pollution, consider basing yourself in Bodhnath, Bhaktapur or Patan.

There should just be time for a two-day rafting, canyoning or bungee adrenaline rush near the Tibetan border at the Last Resort or Borderlands Resort, both a half-day drive from the capital.

On your last day, give thanks for a head-spinning trip at Bodhnath, where you can buy a Buddha statue or a bundle of prayer flags to take home.

2 WEEKS

INDIA

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Lumbini

Tilaurakot

Pokhara

TIBET

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Sarangkot

Bandipur

Bhaktapur

Patan

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This off-the-beaten-track, 400km-loop route combines the best of Nepal’s seldom-visited Middle Hills and offers lots of opportunities for great day hikes.

Start with a few days visiting the temples and stupas of Kathmandu, then book a rafting trip or kayak clinic on the Trisuli River en route to Pokhara, staying in one of the riverside adventure camps. Next stop is Bandipur, a little-visited gem of a village where you can stroll to eerie caverns and relax among some wonderfully preserved tra-ditional Newari architecture. From here, roll on to Pokhara for a row-boat ride around Phew Tal, some good Western food and a quick jaunt across to Begnas Tal.

Take the winding Siddhartha Hwy southwest to charming Tansen, the base for some great day hikes to nearby temples, villages and viewpoints. Continue south to peaceful Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha, in the sultry Terai plains to rove around the Bud-dhist monasteries by bicycle.

Having come this far, it would be a shame to miss Chitwan National Park. If your budget allows, stay at one of the lodges deep inside the park for the most atmospheric digs. Budget at least one early morning and one late afternoon safari. You might also consider a reflective stroll to the village of Devghat, at the sacred confluence of the Trisuli and Kali Gandaki Rivers.

The logical return route to Kathmandu would be to follow the snaking Tribhuvan Hwy north to Daman, one of Nepal’s most impressive viewpoints, and rise at dawn for a 300km-wide panorama of majestic Himalayan peaks.

Alternatively, if your ultimate destination is India, you could dive off the beaten track, heading east to the temple town of Janakpur (aim for the Sita Bibaha Panchami festival in November or December) and then on to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve for Nepal’s best birdwatching opportunities. Make sure you avoid the monsoon months when much of the area is under floodwater. Continue east to the tranquil tea fields of Ilam for some off-map adventure before continuing to the Indian border at Kakarbhitta and the delights of Darjeeling and Sikkim beyond.

3 WEEKS

INDIA

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Janakpur

Devghat

Lumbini

Ilam

Tansen

Daman

Pokhara

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Once Around the Middle

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The most popular alternative to Everest is the Annapurna region. From Pokhara (or Kathmandu) take a combination of bus and 4WD to Dharapani or Chame to set off on the Annapurna Circuit. The full circuit takes about 17 days, but you can shorten it to 10 days by flying or taking public trans-port back to Pokhara from Jomsom.

The highlights of the trek are around Manang, and it’s worth tacking on a few extra days to walk the high route between Pisang and the lovely village of Bragha. The trek’s major physical challenge is crossing the 5416m high pass of Thorung La, and it’s vital that you acclimatise suf-ficiently between Manang and the pass.

Muktinath on the other side of the pass is a major Hindu pilgrimage site and there are some fine short walks to the Tibetan-style villages of Jhong and Purang. The medieval village of Kagbeni is another highlight, as is the charming village of Marpha and nearby Chhairo Gompa.

Back in Pokhara it’s worth taking it easy for a couple of days. Get clean clothes, enjoy a hearty yak steak and have a shave and/or head massage at the barber.

3 WEEKS

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Annapurna Circuit Trek

With a month to spare, you can explore the Kathmandu Valley and fit in a trek into the mighty Himalaya.

From Kathmandu, fly east to Lukla to start the Everest Base Camp trek. This is the definitive Himalayan trek, climbing from teahouse to teahouse among neck-craning peaks to the base of the tallest mountain on earth. The trek takes at least two weeks because of the gain in altitude.

With an extra week to play with, con-sider doing an Everest loop, detouring to the spectacular glaciers and lakes of the Gokyo Valley en route to Base Camp for a total trek of 21 days.

Because of the changeable weather in Nepal, it’s wise to leave yourself a buffer at the end of the trip in case flights are cancelled. Finish off by exploring the high-lights of the Kathmandu Valley itinerary, but do your sightseeing after the trek, not before.

After the thrills and chills of the moun-tains, finish off with a four-day excursion to steamy Chitwan National Park, where you can scan the jungle for rhinos and tigers.

4 WEEKS

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TIBET


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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – Jul 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 057 4© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSBradley MayhewKathmandu, Around the Kathmandu Valley, Trekking Routes Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is a coauthor of the Lonely Planet guides Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one

retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails. Bradley also wrote the Plan Your Trip chapters (with the exception of Eat & Drink Like a Local) and the Directory chapter.

Lindsay BrownAround the Kathmandu Valley; Pokhara; Biking, Rafting & Kayaking Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. Since becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has coauthored more than

35 Lonely Planet guides to destinations such as Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea. Lindsay also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter plus the Understand chapters.

Paul StilesAround the Kathmandu Valley; Kathmandu to Pokhara; The Terai & Mahabharat Range When Paul was 21, he bought an old motorcycle in London and drove it to Tunisia. That did it for him. Since then he’s explored around 60 countries and covered many adventure destinations for Lonely Planet, including Morocco, Madagascar, São Tomé & Príncipe, Indonesia, the Philippines, Hawaii, Maui, and Kaua’i. He has also lived for long stretches in America, Scotland and Spain. In all

things, he tries to follow the rocking chair rule: when making key life decisions, assume the perspective of an elderly person slowly rocking on his porch. Because some day that will be you. Paul also wrote the Health and Transport chapters.


SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Aäron van der Sanden, Albert Horváth, Angelique De Paepe, Anjali Badloe, Anne Tuart, Annebeth Muntinga, Antoinette Heuvel Rijnders, Benjamin Robson, Brigitte Mueller, Caron Dhoju, Dale Golden, Daniela Wicker, David Wells, Eline Bertrums, Emily Coles, Eva van Winsen, Filippo Carlotta FCt, Fleur Davey, Florian Schmid, Frans Wildenborg, Ina Tillema, John Blum, Jonas Bernstein, Julia Sahin, Kate Allberry, Laska Pare, Mara Kuijpers, Michel Geerligs, Nikolaus Schulz, Phil Tennon, Philipp Degenhardt, Sam Scott, Sarah Lennon, Silvia Paola Antonini, Simon Krenger, Stephen King, Tamanna Patel, Tan Gandhara, Tereza Nesnidalova, Tineke van der Wal, Tom Stuart, Tsher-ing Pema Tamang, Valen Pirret, Veronica Benardinelli, Victor Speidel, Virginia Ruiz Albacete.

WRITER THANKSBradley MayhewThanks to Niraj and Abhi at Rural Heritage, and Dambar at Nuwakot for showing me the earthquake repairs there. Thanks to Durga Tamang for updates on the Tamang Heritage Trail. Cheers to Rajan of Earthbound Expeditions for the Kakani trip and to Dawa Sherpa of Asian Trekking and Ang Rita Sherpa for updates on the Khumbu. Thanks to Mukhiya and Maya for a base in Kathmandu.

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the assistance provided by numerous friendly folks across Nepal. In particular, I thank Stan Armington and the excellent staff at the Tibet Resort. Thanks to Durga Bhandari at Malla Treks and Jugal Rajbhandari in Bhaktapur. I would also like to acknowledge my fellow authors and partner Jenny Fegent.

Paul StilesIn the marathon journey that was my research trip, I was helped along by a slew of drivers, guides, hoteliers, and all-around experts of whom Niraj, Mark, Naben, Dhan and Robin stand out. Above all, I wish to thank Abhi for the untiring support that kept me in one piece. How many Shresthas are there, anyway?

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Procession of novice monks at Bodhnath Stupa, Felix Hug ©

Behind the Scenes


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THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Nepal guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Paul Stiles. The previous edition was written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Stuart Butler. The 9th edition was written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Trent Holden. This

guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editors Kate Kiely, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Lauren EganAssisting Editors Janet Aus-tin, Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Boicos, Pete Cruttenden,

Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Paterson Assisting Cartographer Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Heather Champion, Shona Gray, Lauren Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Anna Tyler

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WD Safari (Chitwan National Park) 248

2015 earthquake 18, 68, 330, 363

AA People War 146Abu Khaireni 198-9acclimatisation 397accommodation 374, see

also individual locationslanguage 400trekking lodges 293-5

activities 22-5, 374, see also individual activities

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) 40, 397-8

Ahilya 189AIDS 395air safety 390air travel 18, 385-6, 389-90,

389airports 18Aishwarya, Queen 76alcoholic drinks 32, 60alternative energy 370altitude sickness (AMS)

40, 397-8amoebic dysentery 397Ananta 135animals 365-8, see also

individual speciesAnnapurna Base Camp 308Annapurna Circuit Trek 11,

18, 29, 232, 301-7, 302-3, 5, 11, 20

Annapurna Panorama 309Annapurna Sanctuary Trek

307-8antiques 360, 375arak 32architecture 357-60area codes 17, 382

Arniko Hwy 192art 83, 357-62, 375art galleries, see museums

& art galleriesAsan Tole 78, 59Ashoka 259Ashoka, Emperor 332Ashokan Pillar 259ATMs 378avalanches 34, 122, 305,

308, 330

Bbagh chal 343Bagnaskot 268Bahun people 348-9Balthali 191Bamboo 308Bandipur 14, 201-5, 202, 14Banke National Park 369banyan trees 368Bardia National Park 20, 21,

238, 272-4, 44bargaining 378bathrooms 382-3bears 248Begnas Tal 230-1Beni 231Besi Sahar 301Bhairab 153, 157, 178, 188bhajan (devotional music)

177Bhaktapur 10, 152-67, 154,

158, 10accommodation 161drinking & nightlife 166entertainment 166festivals & events 161food 165-6history 152-3information 167shopping 167sights 153, 155-61travel to/from 167walking tours 162-3

Bhaktapur Tourism Development Committee 146

Bharatpur 241-2Bhimsen Temple

(Bhaktapur) 162Bhimsen Tower

(Dharahara) 83bicycle travel, see cyclingBird Education Society 246birds 366, 367-8birdwatching

Chitwan National Park 244-5, 246

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 283

Lumbini 262Pulchowki Mountain 179

Bis Hajaar Tal 367Bisket Jatra 22board games 343boating 211, 262, also see

canoeing, kayaking, rafting

Bodhnath (Boudha) 27, 128-34, 171, 323, 129

Bodhnath Stupa 10, 128, 10Bön faith 355books 330

arts & architecture 359birdwatching 367culture 344, 346, 350health 395history 333, 340, 341, 342literature 362mountains 37plants 368

border crossings 387-9Belahiya to Sunauli 257India 387-8Tibet 388

Boris Lissanevitch 98Bragha 304Brahma 134-5, 353Briddim 315Buddha Jayanti (Lumbini)

262

Buddha Jayanti (Saga Dawa) 131

Buddha, the 258, 259 332, 333

Buddhism 21, 332-3, 354-6budgeting 17, 374, 377Budhanilkantha 134-5Bungamati 177bungee jumping 51, 193bus travel 390-1, 392business hours 17, 379butter lamps 24Butwal 264-5

Ccalendars 381canoeing 248, 284canyoning 51, 193car travel 389, 391-2carom 343carpets 362caste system 343caves

Bat Cave 211Gupteshwor Mahadev

Cave 211Mahendra Gufa 211Siddha Gufa Cave 202

cell phones 16, 382Chabahil 127-8Chame 304Chand 188chang 32Changu Narayan Temple

168-9, 169Chapagaon 178Charang 323Chhairo 233Chhetri people 348-9Chhomrong 308Chhukung 300children (Nepali) 344children, travel with 374-5

Pokhara 225visas 384


409IN

DEX C

- GChina, relations with 133,

330-1Chitwan National Park

12, 18, 243-55, 244-5, 2, 12

4WD Safari 248accommodation 249-53activities 246-9animals 244-5birdwatching 244-5, 246dangers 246drinking & nightlife 253entertainment 253-4food 253geography 243history 243information 254plants 244safety 248shopping 254sights 246tours 249travel to/from 254-5trekking 247-8when to visit 245-6wildlife watching 244-5

chowks, see squaresChure Hills 364cinema 224, 361civil war 146climate 16, 22-5, see

also individual regionsclimate change 372climbing 50-1

Bandipur 203Nagarjun Hill 136

cold sores 395conservation areas,

see national parks & conservation areas, wildlife reserves

consulates 376costs 374, 377, 378-9courses

Buddhism 85, 131, 134, 173

canyoning 86cooking 86, 87craft 87kayaking 49language 131, 377meditation 86, 134, 214mountaineering 300music 87paragliding 51photography 379rock-climbing 42, 50, 136ultralights 51yoga 86, 182, 214

cows 356cranes 367credit cards 379crocodiles 246, 366cuckoos 367culture 343-50currency 16, 378customs regulations 375cycling 390, see also

mountain bikingChitwan National Park

249Gokarna-Kopan-

Bodhnath 171Nagarkot 184Pokhara 212

cyclospora 397

DDakshinkali 175-6Dal Bhat 59dance 361

Kartik 25Mani Rimdu 25Navadurga 166Tibetan masked 230

dangers, see safety 380Dasain 23-4, 380deer 366-7deforestation 370-1demonstrations 381dengue fever 395Devdaha 264Devghat 242Dharapani 301-4Dhulikhel 185-8, 186Dhumba Tal 236Dhunche 316diarrhoea 396-7Dingboche 298, 299disabilities, travellers

with 383dolphins 366drinking & nightlife, see

individual locationsdrinks 60

language 400driving, see car travel 389drugs 375, 378Duglha 298Dumre 205Durbar Sq (Bhaktapur)

153, 158Durbar Sq

(Kathmandu) 18, 65, 68, 68-9, 72-7, 74

Durbar Sq (Patan) 137-42, 142

Durga 179

Eeagles 367earthquakes 363, see

also 2015 earthquakeLangtang 311trekking route damage

292Eastern Ghats 126economy 330-1, 344electricity 376electronic rickshaws 391elephants 248, 366

new experiences 255safaris 247welfare 18wellbeing 247

embassies 376emergencies 17

language 400environmental issues 331,

369-72erotic art 83etiquette

photography 379-80responsible travel 56trail 45

events, see festivals & events

Everest Base Camp Trek 9, 294-300, 296, 2, 9

exchange rates 17exchanging money 378-9

FFaskot 185festivals & events 14,

22-5, 14Balkumari Jatra 168Bisket Jatra 161Buddha Jayanti

(Lumbini) 262Buddha Jayanti (Saga

Dawa) 131Chariot Festival 189Dasain 380food 377Gai Jatra 161Indra Jatra 88Janai Purnima Festival

146Khokana Jatra festival

177Losar 131Magh Sankranti 190Rato Machhendranath

Festival 147, 177Seto Machhendranath 78tongue-piercing festival

168

fever 396films 330, 361flag 339food 58, 60, 376, see also

individual locationscosts 377expats 150festivals 377language 400momos 14, 14Nepali restaurants 102trekking route options

293-5Freak St 97

GGadhimai Festival 351Gampo, King Songtsen 128Ganesh 353-4Ganges River dolphin 366Garden of Dreams 82gardens, see parks &

gardensGautama, Siddhartha,

see Buddha, thegeography & geology

363-5George V, King 243Ghachok Trek 309Ghandruk Loop 309Gharab Dzong 236Ghasa 233giardiasis 397Godavari 178-9Godavari Kunda 178Gokarna Forest 171-2Gokarna Mahadev Temple

170-1, 170Gokyo Valley 299Golden Gate 140gompas, see

monasteriesGorak Shep 298, 299Gorakhnath, Guru 200Gorkha 199-201, 322, 200Gorkha Durbar 200Gosainkund lakes 317Gosainkund Trek 315-17,

316Gotlang 314government 338-42Great Bell 72Great Drums 72Great Himalayan Trail 318griffons 367Gurkhas 209, 348Guru Rinpoche Cave 175Gurung people 348Gyanendra, King 82

410

IND

EX H- L

HHanuman 354Hanuman Dhoka 75-7Hanuman Ghat 160health 393-8

books 395hepatitis 395insurance 393internet resources 394language 400-1medical kit checklist 394services 395trekking 40vaccinations 393-4websites 394-5

hepatitis 395hiking, see trekking

information, trekking routes

Himalaya, the 345-7, 364, 372

Himalayan Hotel 308Hinduism 21, 332-3, 351-4historic buildings

Golden Gate 156Kumari Bahal 69Pujari Math 159Singh Sattal 68

historic sitesEastern Ghats 126Lingam Shrines 126Manga Hiti 137-8Stone Inscription 75Western Cremation

Ghats 124-5history 332-42

abolition of monarchy 342

books 333, 340, 341, 342erotic art 83Licchavi era 333Malla era 333-5Maoist rebellion 339-40pro-democracy protests

339-40Rana era 336-7royal massacre 340-

1, 342Shah dynasty 335-6,

338-9Thakuri era 333trans-Himalayan trade

337WWI & WWII 337

HIV 395

Holi festival 22, 14holidays 380, 381hoopoes 368horse riding

Gokarna Forest 171Pokhara 212

hot springs (Tatopani) 232Hsien, Fa 258human trafficking 350hydroelectricity 371-2

Iimmigration 384, 385India border crossings

387-8Indian rollers 368Indian visas 383Indra Jatra 23, 88insurance

car & motorcycle 391-2government travel advice

382health 393porters & guides 56travel 41, 377

internet access 377internet resources 17

birdwatching 368culture 345environmental issues

370film 361health 394music 360national parks 369

Islam 356Island Peak 300itineraries 26-9, see also

trekking routesKathmandu Valley 183

Itum Bahal 80, 82

JJayasthithi, King 135Jomsom 234-5, 306-7, 322juju dhau 165

KKagbeni 236, 305, 306Kagyu Institute of Buddhist

Studies 173Kailashnath Mahadev 182Kakani 194Kala (Black) Bhairab 75Kali 176Kali Gandaki 233Kali Gandaki Valley 365

Kalika 75Kantipur 65Kapilavastu 263, 333Kathmandu 61, 62, 64-119,

66-7, 70-1, 74, 90-1, 8-9

accommodation 64, 87-9, 92-9

activities 85-6addresses 69climate 64courses 86-7dangers 111day trips 118drinking & nightlife 106-7entertainment 107-8festivals & events 87food 64, 99-107highlights 66-7history 65information 110-12itineraries 77medical services 110-11Nepali restaurants 102Newari restaurants 102Old Town 9, 65, 101, 8-9orientation 69power failures 18shopping 108-10sights 65, 68-9, 72-9travel seasons 64travel to/from 112-14travel within 114-15walking tours 80-1, 84

Kathmandu International Film Festival 87, 361

Kathmandu International Marathon 87

Kathmandu Valley 61, 120-95, 121

accommodation 120climate 120dangers 123food 120highlights 121hiking 183history 122-3itineraries 26organised tours 124travel seasons 120travel within 123-4

Kathmandu Valley Cultural Trekking Trail 184

Kavre 185kayaking 48-50, 319, 320

Arun River 328Balephi Khola 328Bheri River 328Bhote Kosi 326, 326-8

Kali Gandaki 326-7Karnali 327Marsyangdi 327Pokhara 212-13Seti Karnali 327Seti Khola 326Sun Kosi 326Tamur 328Trisuli River 325Upper Seti River 328

Khokana 177Khopra Ridge 310King Bhupatindra Malla’s

Column 156King Pratap Malla’s

Column 73kingfishers 368Kirati era 332Kirtipur 172-4Kodari 193Kopan 134, 171Koshi Tappu Wildlife

Reserve 367Kumari, cult of 157Kumari Devi 79Kyanjin Gompa 313

LLakshmi, Siddhi 157Lalitpur (City of Beauty),

see Patanlammergeiers 367Langtang 311, 312-13Langtang Valley 13, 18, 13Langtang Valley Trek 310-

14, 312-13language 16, 399-405

courses 377legal matters 377-8Lele Valley 178leopards 366Letdar 304-5LGBT travellers 376-7Limbu people 347lingam 352literature 362, see also

booksLobuche 298, 299Lobuche East 300Lohan Chowk 76-7Lookout Tower (Nagarkot)

180Losar 131Lubbhu 324Lukla 297, 299Lumbini 13, 258-64,

260, 13lunar calendar 381Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

411IN

DEX M

- NMMachhapuchhare Base

Camp 308Machhendranath 354Machhendranath, Rato

145, 177Madhesi people 349Madhyapur 167-8Magar people 348magazines 375Maha Shivaratri Festival

127Mahabharat Range 62, 237-

90, 364, 238-9accommodation 237climate 237, 240highlights 238-9history 240travel seasons 237

malaria 395-6Malla, King Pratap 73Malla, King Ripu 258Malla, King Shiva 137Malla, King Yaksha 156Malla, King Yoganarendra

139Malla, Mahendra 75Manakamana 199Manang 304Mani Rimdu 25mani stones 354Manthang 323Maoist insurgency 243Mardi Himal Trek 309-10Marpha 232-4Maru Tole 69mask dancers 361, 24massage 85, 87, 131, 213Maya Devi Temple 334measures 375medical services 395meditation centres 31

Anapana Meditation 262Ganden Yiga Chopen

Meditation Centre 214Himalayan Buddhist

Meditation Centre 85Kopan Monastery 134Nepal Vipassana Centre

86Panditarama

International Vipassana Meditation Centre 262

Rangjung Yeshe Institute 131

Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery 190

Mera Peak 300metalwork 360

Middle Hills 347-9, 364Mithila people 350mobile phones 16, 382Mohankali Chowk 77momos 14, 14monasteries 359

Auspicious Pinnacle Dharma Centre of Dzongsar 174

Cambodian Monastery 262

Chhairo Gompa 233Drölma Lhakhang 175Drubgyud Chöling

Gompa 261Guru Lhakhang 128-9I Baha Bahi 145Jamchen Lhakhang 128Jangchub Choeling

Gompa 230Kagchode Thubten

Sampheling Gompa 236

Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Gompa 130

Kyanjin Gompa 313Lumbini 260Neydo Tashi Choeling

176O Sal Choling Godavari

178Pal Dilyak Gompa 130Pal Nye Gompa 131Ralo Gompa 174Rigon Tashi Choeling 176Rigzu Phodrang Gompa

175Royal Thai Buddhist

Monastery 262Sakya Tharig Gompa

174-5Samtenling Gompa 234Shechen Gompa 129-30Sri Lankan Monastery

262Sumdu Choeden Gompa

236Tengboche 298Thrangu Tashi Yangtse

Monastery 190-1Thrangu Vajra Vidhya

Monastery 262Tibetan 130Tibetan monastery

(Pharping) 174Uku Bahal 146Zhong Hua Chinese

Buddhist Monastery 261

money 16, 378-9moneychangers 378-9

monkeys 367monuments

Eastern Stairway 115-16Great Drums 72Great Thunderbolt 116Kala (Black) Bhairab 75King Pratap Malla’s

Column 73Stupa Platform 117-18Taleju Bell 140

motorcycle travel 389, 391-2

mountain biking 42-3, 45, 319, 321-5, 320

Kathmandu to Pokhara 321-2

Kathmandu Valley Loop via Nagarkot & Namobuddha 323-4

Muktinath to Pokhara 323

Pokhara 212Pokhara to Sarangkot &

Naudanda 325Rajpath, the from

Kathmandu 324-5Scar Road from

Kathmandu 321Upper Mustang

(Jomsom to Lo Manthang) 322-3

mountaineering 300mountains 4, 21, 30

AMS 40cycling 42-3, 45, 321flights 87literature 37Lobuche East 300Pulchowki Mountain 179Shivapuri Peak 136

Mt Everest 299, 365, see also Everest Base Camp Trek

Muktinath 235, 305, 323Mul Chowk 76-7museums & art galleries

Brass & Bronze Museum 160

Bungamati Culture Museum 177

Changu Museum 168-9Gorkha Museum 201Gurkha Museum 209International Mountain

Museum 209Living Traditions

Museum 169Lumbini Museum 259Military Museum 119Mustang Eco Museum

234

Narayanhiti Palace Museum 82-3

National Art Gallery 155National Museum 119Natural History Museum

119Panauti Museum 189Panauti Peace Gallery

189Patan Museum 141Peace Gallery 146Pokhara Regional

Museum 211Siddhartha Art

Gallery 83Taragaon Museum 130Tharu Cultural Museum

& Research Centre 246

Tilaurakot 263Tribhuvan Museum 76Wildlife Display &

Information Centre 246

Woodcarving Museum 159-60

music 360, 361

NNagarkot 180-5, 323-4, 181Nagthali Ghyang 315-18Namche Bazaar 297, 298Namobuddha 190-1, 324Narayan 135Narayan Shah, Prithvi

336, 337Narayangarh 241-2Narsingha 139, 145Nasal Chowk 76national parks &

conservation areas 369, 370-1

Banke National Park 369Bardia National Park 20,

21, 238, 272-4, 44Chitwan National Park

12, 243-55, 244-5, 2, 12

fees 38Nagarjun Hill 136permits 38Shivapuri Nagarjun

National Park 135-7Naudhara Community

Forest 179Navadurga 166Naya Pul 306-7Nepali calendar 381Nepali language 399-405Nepali names 345

412

IND

EX N-S

Newar people 65, 201-2, 347

Newari arts & crafts 360Newari pagoda temples

357-9newspapers 375Nuwakot 194-5

OOld Pokhara 208Old Town (Kathmandu) 9,

65, 101, 8-9opening hours 17, 379outdoor activities 20-1,

42-51, see also individual activities

PPadmasambhava 355Pahar zone 364painting 360palaces

Dhuni Pati 200Gaddhi Baithak 69Gorkha Durbar 200Hanuman Dhoka 75-7Ranighat Durbar 267Royal Palace (Patan)

140-1Saat Tale Durbar 195Tansen Durbar 265

Paljorling 230Panauti 188-90Panchase Trek 309paragliding 51, 50

Bandipur 203Pokhara 213

pariah kites 367parks & gardens

Garden of Dreams 82Kanyam Tea Gardens

289Maya Devi Temple

Sacred Garden 258Mountain Botanical

Gardens 269Nagarkot Buddha Peace

Garden 180National Botanical

Gardens 178Seti River Gorge 209

Parvati 353Pashupatinath 124-7, 125passports 384, 385

Patan 15, 137-52, 138-9, 142, 144, 148, 15

accommodation 146-7, 149

activities 146entertainment 151festivals & events 146food 149-51history 137information 152shopping 151-2sights 137-46travel to/from 152

Phakding 297Pharping 174-5pheasants 367Phedi 307Pheriche 298Phewa Tal 208photography 379-80Pim Bahal Pokhari 143pipal trees 352, 368planning

budgeting 16-17calendar of events 22-5children, travel with

374-5internet resources 16-17itineraries 26-9Nepal basics 16-17Nepal’s regions 61-2repeat visitors 18travel seasons 16-17,

22-5trekking 30-41volunteering 52-58

plants 368-9, 371poaching 243, 371Pokhara 12, 62, 206-27,

207, 210, 216, 219, 12accommodation 206,

215-20activities 211-14climate 206, 208courses 214drinking & nightlife 223emergencies 225entertainment 223-4festivals & events 215food 206, 220-3highlights 207itineraries 208medical services 225safety 225shopping 224-5sights 208-11tourist offices 225tours 214-15travel seasons 206

travel to/from 226-7travel within 227

politics 331, 338-42pollution 370population 331, 345-50,

369-70postal services 380prayer flags 354prayer wheels 354protests 381public holidays 380puja 351Pulchowki Mountain 179

Rrabies 396rafting 15, 45-8, 212-13,

319, 320, 15, 49Arun River 328Balephi Khola 328Bheri River 328Kali Gandaki 326-7Karnali 327Marsyangdi 327Seti Karnali 327Seti Khola 326Sun Kosi 326Tamur 328Trisuli River 198, 325Upper Seti River 328

Rai people 347Ram Chandra Temple 85Ramkot 203Rana, Jung Bahadur 336Rani Pokhari 83Ranighat Durbar 267Ranipauwa 235raptors 367Rato Machhendranath

Festival 147ravens 368refugee settlements 230,

233religion 331, 343, 351-6,

see also individual religions

repoussé metalwork 360respiratory infections 396responsible travel 56-7rhinoceroses 248, 366, 44rhododendrons 368rickshaws 391, 392Ridi Bazaar 267-8Rinpoche, Dilgo Khyentse

129Rinpoche, Guru 176rock climbing, see climbingrodents 367royal Bengal tigers 366

royal massacre 340-1, 342Rupa Tal 230-1Rupse Chhahara 233

Ssacrifice 351sadhus 356sadhvis 356safety 380-2

bus travel 392Chitwan National Park

248road 392Thorung La 305

saligrams 366Sankhu 172Sarangkot 227-9Saraswati 354Sauraha 246, 247, 248,

249-252, 253, 249, 250scams 381scenic flights 87

Pokhara 214sculpture 357-60seasons 363Seto Machhendranath

Festival 78Shah dynasty 65Shah, Prithvi Narayan 172Shamanism 356Shanti Ban Buddha 179Sherpa people 346-7shikhara temples 359Shiva 123, 126, 352-3Shivalaya Trek 295-7Shivapuri Nagarjun

National Park 135-7shopping 56, 109, 401,

see also individual locations

shrines 334Ashok Binayak 68Bangemudha 78Bishankhu Narayan 179Ganesh shrine 162

Siddhartha Hwy 264-8Siddharthanagar

(Bhairawa) 255-7Silkworm Farm 203Sing Gompa 316sloth bears 248snow leopards 366snowblindness 40spices 58, 109, 59spiritualism 21squares

Asan Tole 78Indra Chowk 79-80Khalna Tole 160


413IN

DEX S

-TMain Sq (Kirtipur) 173Mul Chowk 141Nasamana Sq 160potters’ square (Thimi)

168Potters’ Sq (Bhaktapur)

160Sitalpati 265Sulima Sq 143Sundari Chowk 141-2

storks 367strikes 381stupas 127

Ashoka Stupas 136Bodhnath Stupa 10,

128, 10Chabahil Stupa 128Chilanchu Vihara 173Great Drigung Kagyud

Lotus Stupa 262Kathesimbhu Stupa 77-8Lokamani Pula Pagoda

262Manang Samaj Stupa

261Namobuddha Stupa 190Swayambhunath 10,

117, 11Western Stupa 118World Peace Pagoda 259

Sunauli 255-7sunburn 395Sundari Chowk 77Suriya Binayak Temple 167Swayambhunath 10, 115-18,

116, 11swimming 213Syabrubesi 311

TTachupal Tole 158-60tahr 367Taleju Bell 156Tamang Heritage Trail 314-

15, 312-13Tamang people 346Tamur river 328, 49Tansen (Palpa) 265-7,

268, 266Tashi Ling 230Tashi Palkhel 230Tatopani 232, 315, 323Taumadhi Tole 157-8taxes 379, 386taxis 392telephone services 16, 382temple restoration 358

temples 19, 357-9, see also stupas

Amar Narayan Mandir 265-6

Bachhareshwari Temple 125

Bagh Bhairab Temple 173Balkumari Temple 168Bhagwati Shiva Temple

(Dhulikhel) 185Bhagwati Temple 72Bhairab Sthan Temple

268Bhairab Temple

(Bungamati) 177Bhairabi Temple

(Nuwakot) 195Bhairabnath Temple 157Bhimsen Temple

(Bhaktapur) 159Bhimsen Temple

(Kathmandu) 83Bhimsen Temple (Patan)

137Bidyapith Temple 141Bindebasini Temple 203Bishwakarma

(Bishokarma) Temple 148

Brahmayani Temple 189Chandeshwari Temple

188Chandra Binayak Ganesh

Temple 128Changu Narayan Temple

168-9Char Dham Temples 155Charumati Vihar 128Dakshinkali Temple 175-6Dattatreya Temple 158-9Degutaleju Temple 75Degutalle Temple 141Erotic Elephants Temple

153Fasidega Temple 153Ganesh Temple

(Dhulikhel) 185Gauri Shankar Temple

143Gita Temple 185Gokarna Mahadev 170-1,

170Golden Temple (Kwa

Bahal) 143Gorakhnath Temple 126Guhyeshwari Temple 126Hari Siddhi Temple 185Harisiddhi Bhagwan

Temple 179Ichangu Narayan Temple

135Indrapur Temple 75

Indrayani Temple 153Indreshwar Mahadev

Temple 189Jagannath Temple 73-4Jaya Varahi Temple 160-1Jwalamai (Goddess of

Fire) Temple 235Kabindrapur Temple 68Kali Temple (Dhulikhel)

185Kalika Temple 200Kalmochan Temple 85Karya Binayak Temple

177Khadga Devi Temple 203Korean Buddhist Temple

261Kotilingeshwar Mahadev

Temple 75Krishna Mandir 139Krishna Narayan Temple

189Krishna Temple

(Kathmandu) 78Krishna Temple

(Patan) 140Lakshmi Mishwar

Mahadev Temple 85Lohan Dehar 173Mahabouddha Temple

145Mahadev Temple

(Gorkha) 200Mahalakshmi Temple 168Mahendreshwar Temple

75Manang Samaj Stupa

261Mata Temple 176Maya Devi Temple 258-9,

334Minnath Temple 145Mother Temple of the

Graduated Path to Enlightenment 261

Myanmar Golden Temple 262

Nagar Mandap Sri Kirti Vihar 173

Nara Devi Temple 82Naudhara Kunda 178Nepal Vajrayana

Mahavihara Temple 262

Ni Bahal 161Nyatapola Temple 157Pachali Bhairab & the

Southern Ghats 85Pashupatinath Temple

(Bhaktapur) 156Pashupatinath Temple

(Pashupatinath) 124

Pulchowki Mai Temple 179

Ram Chandra Temple 83Rato Machhendranath

Temple (Bungamati) 177

Rato Machhendranath Temple (Patan) 145

Salan Ganesh Temple 160

Seto Machhendranath Temple (Jan Bahal) 78-9

Shashwat Dham 241Shekala Mai Temple 177Shesh Narayan

Temple 174Shiva Parvati Temple

(Bhaktapur) 153Shiva Temple

(Dhulikhel) 185Shiva-Parvati Temple

(Kathmandu) 69Siddhi Lakshmi

Temple 157Suriya Binayak Temple

167Tadhunchen Bahal 157Taleju Bhawani Temple

(Patan) 141Taleju Temple

(Kathmandu) 75Taleju Temple (Nuwakot)

195Tana Deval Temple 75Three Goddesses

Temples 82Til Mahadev Narayan

Temple 158Tin Deval Temple 85Tripurasundari Temple

162Tripureshwar Mahadev

Temple 85Uma Maheshwar Temple

(Kirtipur) 173Uma Maheshwar Temple

(Patan) 143Unamanta Bhairab

Temple 189Vajra Varahi Temple 178Vajra Yogini Temple 175Vajrayogini Temple 172Varahi Mandir 208Vatsala Durga Temple

156Vietnam Phat Quoc Tu

Temple 261Vishnu Temple

(Dhulikhel) 185Vishnu Temple (Gorkha)

200

414

IND

EX T- Z

Temples continuedVishwanath Temple

138-9World Peace Pagoda 259Yatkha Bahal 82

tempos 392Tengboche 298Terai, the 62, 237-90, 349-

50, 364, 238-9, 241accommodation 237climate 237, 240highlights 238-9history 240travel seasons 237

Thakali people 346Thamel 18, 61, 80-1, 88-9,

92-6, 100-4, 109Thani Mai Temple

Viewpoint 202Tharu people 252, 349theft 381-2Thimi 167-8Thini 236Thorung La 304, 305Thorung Phedi 304-5Thuman 315Tibet 192, 193

border crossings 388tours 388-9travel restrictions 388

Tibetan Buddhism 21, 355-6

Tibetan carpets 362Tibetan people 346Tibetan refugee

settlements 230, 233tigers 248, 366, 369tika 353Tika Bhairab 178Tilaurakot 263, 333Tilicho Tal 236timalids 367-8time 16, 382, 401TIMS Card 38tipping 379toilets 382-3Tolka 308tongba 32tourism 330-1, 343, 372

2015 earthquake 122tourist information 383tours, see also individual

locationsmotorcycle 292mountain bike 43

rafting 47-8to/from Tibet 388-9

trafficking, human 350train travel 392Trans-Himalaya, the 365trans-Himalayan trade 337transport

language 401-2within Nepal 17, 389-92

travel advisories 382travel to/from Nepal 385-9travel within Nepal 17,

389-92traveller’s diarrhoea 396-7trekking information 4, 19,

372, 33, 44, see also trekking routes

accomodation 293-5agencies 34-5best treks 30clothing 35-6earthquake damage

34, 292equipment 36food 293-5guides & porters 31-4health 39-40, 397insurance 41language 402literature 37maps 37permits 224, 232planning 30-41responsible trekking

38-9safety 39-40, 397-8shorter treks 292TIMS Card 38websites 37-8

trekking routes 291-318, 293, 44, see also trekking information

Annapurna Circuit Trek 11, 18, 19, 232, 301-7, 302-3, 5, 11, 20

Annapurna Panorama 309

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 307-8

Beni to Dolpo 318Chitwan National Park

247-8Everest Base Camp Trek

9, 294-300, 296, 2, 9Ghachok Trek 309Ghandruk Loop 309Gosainkund Trek 315-17,

316Great Himalayan Trail

318

Kahun Danda 214Kanchenjunga 318Kathmandu Valley

Cultural Trekking Trail 184

Khopra Ridge 310Langtang Valley Trek

310-14, 312-13Makalu Base Camp 318Manaslu Circuit 318Mardi Himal Trek 309-10Mustang 318Nagarkot 184Nar-Phu 318Panchase Trek 309Phewa Tal Circuit 214restricted area treks

317-18Shivalaya Trek 295-7Shivapuri Nagarjun

National Park 136Siddha Gufa Cave 202Tamang Heritage Trail

314-15, 312-13Tarap Valley Loop 318Thini 236Tsum Valley 318Valley Fringe 183World Peace Pagoda

(Pokhara) 212Tribhuvan, King 76Trisuli River 198-9Tukuche 233Tundikhel 202TV 375

UUku Bahal 146ultralights 51Unesco World Heritage

Sites 10, 65, 117, 137, 152, 168, 243, 294, 357

Upper Pisang 304

Vvacations 380vaccinations 393-4Vaishnavism 135viewpoints

Annapurna 309Bandipur 202Daman 269Eastern Ghats 126Ilam 288Manang 304Nagarkot 180Naundanda 325Poon Hill 307

visas 16, 383-4Vishnu 134-5, 168, 179, 353Vishwanath Temple 138-9volunteering 56-7voluntrekking 53vultures 367, 368

Wwalking, see trekking

information, trekking routes, walking tours

walking toursBhaktapur 162-3Kathmandu 80-1, 84Tansen 268

water 372, 396waterfalls

Devi’s Falls 209-10Rupse Chhahara 233

weather 16, 22-5, see also individual regions

weights 375white-water rafting 15, 15

see also raftingwildflowers 368wildlife 19-20, 364, 365-8Wildlife Display &

Information Centre 246wildlife poaching 371wildlife reserves 19-20,

369, 370-1Koshi Tappu Wildlife

Reserve 367Lumbini Crane

Sanctuary 260women in Nepal 350women travellers 384World Heritage Sites, see

Unesco World Heritage Sites

World Peace Pagoda (Lumbini) 259

World Peace Pagoda (Pokhara) 210-11, 212

YYak Kharkha 304yoga

Kathmandu 86-7Patan 146Pokhara 214

yoghurt 165yoni 352

Zziplining 20, 21zoos 146, 246


415

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – Jul 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 057 4© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSBradley MayhewKathmandu, Around the Kathmandu Valley, Trekking Routes Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is a coauthor of the Lonely Planet guides Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one

retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails. Bradley also wrote the Plan Your Trip chapters (with the exception of Eat & Drink Like a Local) and the Directory chapter.

Lindsay BrownAround the Kathmandu Valley; Pokhara; Biking, Rafting & Kayaking Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. Since becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has coauthored more than

35 Lonely Planet guides to destinations such as Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea. Lindsay also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter plus the Understand chapters.

Paul StilesAround the Kathmandu Valley; Kathmandu to Pokhara; The Terai & Mahabharat Range When Paul was 21, he bought an old motorcycle in London and drove it to Tunisia. That did it for him. Since then he’s explored around 60 countries and covered many adventure destinations for Lonely Planet, including Morocco, Madagascar, São Tomé & Príncipe, Indonesia, the Philippines, Hawaii, Maui, and Kaua’i. He has also lived for long stretches in America, Scotland and Spain. In all

things, he tries to follow the rocking chair rule: when making key life decisions, assume the perspective of an elderly person slowly rocking on his porch. Because some day that will be you. Paul also wrote the Health and Transport chapters.



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©lonely planet publications pty ltd · bradley mayhew, lindsay brown, paul stiles nepal kathmandu...

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