©lonely planet publications pty ltd 549 b...

549

4WD, see car travel

Aaccommodations 518-20, see also

individual locationslanguage 539-40sustainable travel 506

activities 34-43, see also individual activities

addresses 525Aiko-logi 451air travel

airfares 532airlines 531airports 531to/from Costa Rica 531-2within Costa Rica 534-5, 534

Alajuela 95, 98-103, 98accommodations 99-101activities 95, 98-9courses 99emergency services 102entertainment 102festivals 99food 101-2internet access 102sights 95, 98-9travel to/from 103

alligators 251, 325amphibians 510animals 507-16, see also individual

speciesarchaeological sites

Las Ruinas de la Parroquia 116Monumento Nacional Arqueológico

Guayab 128Parque Nacional Carara 282-3Playa Manuel Antonio 318Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño

382area codes 19Area de Conservacion Guanacaste

200-3Arenal route 131-57Arias Sánchez, Oscar 487art galleries, see museums &

galleries

arts 491-2, see also handicrafts, individual arts

Atenas 106Atlantic slope 400-10ATMs 525Aviarios del Caribe Sloth

Sanctuary 421

BBagaces 188Bahía Drake 375-80, 376, 372

accommodations 378-9activities 376-8food 378-9history 376tours 378travel to/from 379-80

Bahía Gigante 255Bahía Potrero 218Bahía Salinas 206-8Baird’s tapirs 340, 348, 357, 382,

384, 388, 513Bajos del Toro 109-10banana industry 403, 485bargaining 525Barra del Colorado 419-20Barva 115Basílica de Nuestra Señora de

Los Ángeles 116Bat Jungle 159, 161bathrooms 528Battle of Santa Rosa 201beaches 23

Jacó 290, 287Montezuma 260Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

331Pavones 393, 373 Península de Nicoya 240Playa Avellanas 231, 223Playa Bonita 409-10Playa Carrillo 240, 251-2, 240, 499Playa Cativo 391-2Playa Cocles 445Playa Conchal 220Playa Coyote 253, 240, 240Playa Danta 217-18Playa del Coco 212, 222Playa El Carmen 268Playa Espadilla 315Playa Espadilla Sur 318Playa Flamingo 218-19Playa Grande 220Playa Guiones 242, 14, 258Playa Hermosa (central Pacific

coast) 296-8 Playa Hermosa (Península de

Nicoya) 215-16

Playa Herradura 285Playa Junquillal 233, 240Playa Manuel Antonio 318Playa Manzanillo 268Playa Negra (Carribean coast)

424Playa Negra (Península de Nicoya)

231, 258Playa Nicuesa 391-2Playa Ocotal 216Playa Palo Seco 299Playa Pan de Azúcar 217, 240Playa Penca 218, 240, 240Playa Platanares 365Playa Pochote 257Playa Sámara 13, 247-8, 12Playa San Isidro 281Playa San Josecito 391-2Playa San Miguel 240, 253Playa Santa Teresa 10, 268, 10Playa Tamarindo 225Playa Tambor 257Punta Uva 445

bicycle travel, see cyclingbiological reserves, see also national

parks & refuges, protected areasAiko-logi 451Cloudbridge Nature Preserve

343-4Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierp

374-5Rara Avis 464Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 172, 177-81, 31, 172, 499

Reserva Biológica Dúrika 350Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere

421Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño

382Reserva Biológica Lomas de

Barbudal 190Reserva Biológica Nosara 239Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 330Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo

Blanco 267-8, 223Reserva Santa Elena 172Tirimbina Rainforest Center 458

birds 500, 508-9, 173, see alsoindividual species

bird-watching 24, 38-9, 508-9, 173, 286

Bahía Drake 380Hacienda Barú National Wildlife

Refuge 323-4La Virgen 457Los Ángeles Cloud Forest

Adventure Park 111-12Monumento Nacional Arqueológico

Guayabo 128

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550

INDEX B

-C

bird-watching continuedParque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 401Parque Nacional Carara 283Parque Nacional Chirripó 348Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos 396Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 338Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

319Parque Nacional Palo Verde 189Parque Nacional Rincón de la

Vieja 197Parque Nacional Tapantí – Macizo

Cerro de la Muerte 123Parque Nacional Tortuguero 413Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Caño Negro 469Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 179, 172Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere

421Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce

362San Isidro de El General 341

blue morpho butterflies 45, 61, 516, 2, 516

boat travel, see also canoeing,kayaking, white-water rafting

to/from Coast Rica 534within Costa Rica 535

Boca Barranca 281Boca Tapada area 465-6books

birds 500childrens 506culture 481, 490, 491fiction 491history 481, 482, 485rainforests 504travel 478wildlife 495

border crossings 532-3Nicaragua 206, 421, 468, 532-3Panama 353, 451, 533

Boruca (Brunka) people 175, 176, 350

breakbone fever 523Bribrí 451-2Bribrí people 356-7, 444brown pelicans 157, 207, 256, 267,

318, 319, 369Brunka (Boruca) people 175, 176,

350budget 18bullfighting 26, 79, 136, 213, 490bungee jumping 107, 166

bus travel 19local buses 538safety 419to/from Costa Rica 82, 533within Costa Rica 82-4, 535

bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 520butterflies 45, 61, 323, 516, 2, 155,

516

CCabécar people 350, 356-7, 400, 444Cabo Matapalo 369-70Cabuya 266-7cacao 362, 432Cahuita 424-31, 426

accommodations 425-9activities 424, 425drinking 430-1food 430internet access 431sights 424tours 424-5travel to/from 431travel within 431

Canales de Tortuguero 412Cañas 181-3canoeing, 9, 137, 365, 377, 415, 460

see also kayaking, white-water rafting

canopy tours 10, 41, 10, 40Bahía Drake 378El Castillo 147Jacó 292La Fortuna 137Laguna de Arenal 149Monteverde 166Montezuma 262Nosara 239Parque Nacional Rincón de la

Vieja 198Playa Ocotal 217Playa Sámara 248Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 436, 437Rainmaker 303Santa Elena 166Veragua Rainforest Research &

Adventure Park 406Volcán Miravalles 188

canyoneering 164capuchin monkeys 190, 318, 320,

380, 383, 413, 421, 431, 469, 512, 11, 512

car travel 19crossing rivers 537driving accidents 524flat-tire scam 536insurance 536rental 19, 536

road rules 537safety 536, 537to/from Costa Rica 533-4within Costa Rica 536-7

Carate 371Cariari 404-5Caribbean coast 49, 397-452, 494,

398carretas (oxcarts) 26, 63, 89, 106,

109, 527, 28, 119Cartago 115-17Casa de la Cultura 112Catarata de Río Celeste 184Catarata La Cangreja 198Catarata Manantial de Agua Viva

284, 300Catarata San Luis 164, 172, 172Catedral Metropolitana 60cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCatie 125caves

Parque Nacional Barra Honda 238Venado Caves 472-3

cell phones 19Central Valley 47, 94-129, 96Centro Turístico Cataratas Nauyaca

324-5Cerro Chirripó 17, 345, 347, 16, 347Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge 401Cerro de la Muerte 340-1children, travel with 44-6

Jacó 291Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

319Puerto Jiménez 368San José 66Quepos 306, 315

child-sex tourism 529Chiquita Banana, see United Fruit

CompanyChorotega people 175, 205, 235, 236churches & cathedrals

Alajuela Cathedral 95Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los

Ángeles 116Catedral de la Mercedes 107Catedral Metropolitana 60Iglesia de la Inmaculada

Concepción 112Iglesia de San Blas 236Iglesia de San José Orosi 121Iglesia de San Ramón 111Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de

María 191Iglesia San Bartolomé 115

Cinema Escaleras 329Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 131,

134climate 18, 26-8, 520


551IN

DEX C-E

climate change 531cloud forests 496

Cloudbridge Nature Preserve 343-4Ecolodge San Luis & Research

Station 181Laguna de Arenal area 149Los Ángeles Cloud Forest

Adventure Park 111-12Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo

401-2Parque Nacional Chirripó 345,

348-50Parque Nacional Guanacaste 204-5Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos

395-6Parque Nacional Los Quetzales

340Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba

129Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 6, 172, 177-81, 6, 31, 172, 499

Reserva Santa Elena 172, 180-1Volcán Tenorio area 183-6

Cloudbridge Nature Preserve 343-4coatis 145, 163, 238, 267, 319, 512,

513, 513Cóbano 260coffee industry 484, 15

plantations 15, 165-6, 118Columbus, Christopher 400, 407,

480-1conservation, see also biological

reserves, national parks & refugescourses 165, 494protected areas 501-2, 503rainforest 497rivers 125wildlife 167, 234, 246, 257, 388, 450volunteering 529-30

consulates 521Costa de Pájaros 157courses

conservation 165, 494dance 262, 308, 325diving 41-2, 212, 213, 377language 78, 106, 122, 165, 227-8,

248, 291, 325, 435, 524surfing 38, 221, 226, 227-8, 242,

269, 326, 434yoga 221, 242, 262, 269, 325, 394

crafts, see handicraftscredit cards 525crocodiles 189, 190, 202, 224, 282,

283, 284-5, 384, 392, 510culture 488-92curassows 111, 189, 190, 197, 384, 413currency 525, 526customs regulations 520cycling 42-3, 535

Ddance 491, 28

courses 262, 308, 325dangers, see safetydeforestation 463, 469, 497,

503-4, 505dengue fever 523diarrhea 524disabilities, travelers with 528diving & snorkeling 25, 41-2, 40

Bahía Drake 377Caribbean Coast 17courses 41-2, 212, 213, 377Parque Nacional Cahuita 432Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos

395, 396Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

331Península de Nicoya 17, 213Playa del Coco 212Playa Hermosa (Península de

Nicoya) 215Playa Ocotal 217Playa Sámara 248Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 435Quepos 304Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 450Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño

382dolphins 514, 515, 514dolphin-watching 501

Bahía Drake 378Manuel Antonio Village 315-16Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

319Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 331Playa Carrillo 251Puerto Jiménez 364Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 450Dominical 324-8drinks 522driver’s licenses 536driving, see car traveldrugs (illegal) 477DVDs 522

Eearthquakes 494, 527Ecolodge San Luis & Research

Station 181Ecomuseo de las Minas

de Abangares 157economy 476ecotourism 159, 181, 504-6

ecostays 25, 47, 153, 181, 234, 306, 332, 363, 370, 371, 425, 458, 465, 506

ecotours 228, 262, 305, 365, 378, 460

El Castillo 147-9El Jardín de las Mariposas 159electricity 521Elias Leiva Museum of Ethnography

116embassies 521emergencies 19, 522

language 542endangered species 500-1, 530

Baird’s tapirs 340, 348, 357, 382, 384, 388, 513

brown pelicans 157, 207, 256, 267, 318, 319, 369

curassows 111, 189, 190, 197, 384, 413

great green macaws 98, 413, 463

green turtles 246, 383, 410, 411, 438, 439

harpy eagles 348, 357, 382-3, 449

hawksbill turtles 252, 331, 412, 438, 450, 501, 438

jaguars 112, 182, 197, 340, 384, 401, 413, 469, 512, 512

leatherback turtles 220, 224, 234, 411, 412, 438, 450, 501, 515, 438

loggerhead turtles 412, 438, 450manatees 412, 514olive ridley turtles 201, 202, 246,

253, 331, 383, 501, 514, 515poaching 234, 246, 247, 283, 411quetzals 111, 123, 179, 197, 338,

339, 340, 348, 401, 501, 508, 508

scarlet macaws 45, 98, 189, 190, 282, 283, 369, 380, 382, 500, 501, 508, 286, 509

snakes 107squirrel monkeys 312, 313, 318,

319, 320, 340, 384, 513, 320environmental hazards 524environmental issues 502-6

banana industry 403deforestation 463, 469, 497,

503-4, 505poaching 202, 234, 246, 247, 283,

383, 411, 469tourism 504

Envision Art, Music & SacredMovement Festival 326

Escaleras 328-9Escazú 89-93, 90Estación Biológica La Selva 462etiquette 21events 26-8, see also festivals exchange rates 19eyelash pit viper 510, 511



552

INDEX F-H

Ffauna, see animalsfer-de-lance 325, 384, 510Feria de la Mascarada 115festivals 26-8

Envision Art, Music & SacredMovement Festival 326

Feria de la Mascarada 26, 115Festival de Arte 63Festival de Arte Chunches de

Mar 262Festival Flores de la Diáspora

Africana 407Festival Imperial 22, 26Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar 213, 279Fiesta de los Diablitos 26, 351, 347Fiesta de los Negritos 351Fiesta de Santa Cruz 26Fiestas de la Fortuna 136Las Fiestas de Palmares 26, 110Monteverde Music Festival 165Montezuma International Film

Festival 262Figueres Ferrer, José 54, 55, 86, 406,

485-6, 485fishing 25, 43, 339,

see also sportfishing, surf casting, trout fishing

food 521-2children 46gallo pinto 73, 522language 540-1vegetarian travelers 522

football (soccer) 490forests, see cloud forests, rainforests,

national parks & refugesfrogs

poison-dart frogs 284, 303, 325, 381, 391, 421, 501

red-eyed tree frogs 510, 510

Ggallo pinto 73, 522gardens

Catie 125El Jardín de las Mariposas 159Finca La Isla Botanical Garden 433Herrera Gardens & Conservation

Project 365INBioparque 113Jardín Botánico Else Kientzler 108Jardín Botánico Las Cusingas

402Jardín de Orquídeas 161Jardín Pura Vida 284

Lankester Gardens 121Mariposario de Cahuita 424Montezuma Gardens 261-2Spirogyra Jardín de Mariposas 61Tree of Life 424Wilson Botanical Garden 353-4

gay travelers 75, 316, 523geography 493-5geology 494golden toads 167Golfito 388-90Golfo Dulce 48, 388-95, 360, 15Gran Hotel Costa Rica 67, 77great green macaws 98, 413, 463Grecia 107green spiny lizards 348, 510, 510green turtles 246, 383, 410, 411,

438, 439Guaitil 235guanacaste trees 496Guápiles 402-4Guaymí people 354, 363

HHacienda Barú National Wildlife

Refuge 300, 323-4, 300haggling 525hammerhead sharks 382, 395, 396,

515, 514handicrafts 79, 108, 175-6, 251, 351,

492, 527hang gliding 291harpy eagles 348, 357, 382-3, 449hawksbill turtles 252, 331, 412, 438,

450, 501, 438health 523-4

children 45insurance 523language 542rainforest medicine 355

Heliconia Island 463-4hepatitis 523Heredia 112-15, 113Herrera Gardens & Conservation

Project 365Highway 126 464hiking 24, 35-6

Area de Conservacion Guanacaste 202

Bahía Drake 376-7Cerro Chirripó 17, 348-9, 16, 347hazards 527Jacó 290La Fortuna 136Monteverde 163-4Parque Internacional La Amistad

356Parque Nacional Barra Honda

238

Parque Nacional BraulioCarrillo 401

Parque Nacional Cahuita 431Parque Nacional Carara 283-4Parque Nacional Chirripó 17, 345,

348-9, 16, 347Parque Nacional Corcovado 384-6Parque Nacional Guanacaste 204Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 338Parque Nacional Palo Verde 189Parque Nacional Rincón de la

Vieja 197-8Parque Nacional Tapantí – Macizo

Cerro de la Muerte 123Parque Nacional Tortuguero 414Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

145-6, 154, 99Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 104Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

184-5Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba

129Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 435Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 449-50Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 178-9, 31, 172Reserva Biológica Dúrika 350Reserva Biológica Nosara 239Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo

Blanco 267-8safety 35Santa Elena 163-4

history 479-87banana industry 485books 481, 482, 485coffee industry 484colonization 481-2Columbus, Christopher 400, 407,

480-1disarmament 486independence 483Jacó 288-9Nicaraguan war 486-7pre-Columbian 480US influence 486-7

hitchhiking 537holidays 526horseback riding 42, 222

Cahuita 424El Castillo 147Jacó 290-1La Fortuna 139La Virgen 456Monteverde 164-5Parque Nacional Rincón de la

Vieja 198Playa del Coco 212Rancho La Merced National Wildlife

Refuge 330


553IN

DEX H-M

Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 330Santa Elena 164-5

hot springs 13, 13, 154La Fortuna 135Orosi 122-3Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja

198, 199San Gerardo de Rivas 344Volcán Miravalles 187-8

howler monkeys 145, 179, 224, 246, 320, 380, 412, 413, 431, 512

Huetar people 95, 282Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierp 374-5hummingbirds 104, 175, 340, 348,

463, 509

IIglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción

112Iglesia de San Blas 236Iglesia de San José Orosi 121Iglesia de San Ramón 111Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de

María 191Iglesia San Bartolomé 115iguanas 202, 318, 319, 320, 466, 469,

510, 9, 287immigration 531INBioparque 113Independence Day 27, 28indigenous cultures

Boruca (Brunka) 175, 176, 350Bribrí 356-7, 444Cabécar 350, 356-7, 400, 444Chorotega 175, 205, 235, 236Guaymí 354, 363Huetar 95, 282Maleku 469, 473Kèköldi 400, 420, 444medicine 355

indigenous reservesReserva Indígena Boruca 350-1Reserva Indígena Guaymí 362Reserva Indígena Yorkín 444

insects 516insurance

car & motorcycle 536health 523travel 523

Interamericana Norte 157-208internet access 524internet resources 19

environment 494, 496, 504history 481national parks 502news 488rainforests 504soccer (football) 490tourism 19

Isla Gigante 255Isla Guayabo 256Isla Los Pájaros 256Isla Negritos 256Isla San Lucas 255Isla Tortuga 256itineraries 29-33

J Jacó 288-96, 289, 287

accommodations 292-4activities 290-1courses 291drinking 295-6entertainment 295-6food 294-5safety 289-90tours 291-2travel to/from 296travel within 296

Jaguar Centro de Rescate 445jaguars 112, 182, 197, 340, 384, 401,

413, 469, 512, 512Jardín Botánico Else Kientzler 108Jardín Botánico Las Cusingas

402Jardín de Orquídeas 161Jardín Pura Vida 284Juntas 157-8

Kkayaking 23, 39-41, 291, 15, see also

canoeing, white-water raftingBahía Drake 377Dominical 326El Castillo 147Golfo Dulce 14Jacó 291La Fortuna 139La Virgen 456-7Nosara 242Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

319Playa Carrillo 251Puerto Jiménez 365Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 450Kèköldi people 400, 420, 444kitesurfing 39, 150, 205, 207

LLa Casa de la Cultura 278La Catarata de la Fortuna 135-6La Catarata de la Paz 105La Cruz 205-6La Fortuna 134-44, 136, 138

accommodations 139-42activities 135-6

drinking 143entertainment 143festivals 136food 142-3internet access 144medical services 144shopping 143-4sights 135-6tours 136-7, 139travel to/from 144travel within 144

La Garita 105-6La Sabana 61-2, 69, 72-4, 64La Virgen 456-7Lago de Cachí 123Laguna de Arenal 149language 18, 20, 539-45

courses 78, 106, 122, 165, 227-8, 248, 291, 325, 435, 524

emergencies 542Lankester Gardens 121Las Cataratas de Los Chorros 107Las Fiestas de Guanacaste 184Las Fiestas de Palmares 110Las Ruinas de la Parroquia 116leatherback turtles 220, 224, 234,

411, 412, 438, 450, 501, 515, 438

legal matters 524leishmaniasis 524lesbian travelers 75, 316, 523Liberia 190-7, 192

accommodations 191-4drinking 195entertainment 195food 194-5internet access 195medical services 195sights 191travel to/from 196-7

literature, see bookslizards 319, 331, 348, 510, 510, see

also iguanasLlanos de Cortés 188loggerhead turtles 412, 438, 450Los Ángeles Cloud Forest Adventure

Park 111-12Los Chiles 466-8Los Yoses 85-9

Mmacaws, see great green macaws,

scarlet macawsMal País 10, 258, 268-73, 258, 259malaria 524Maleku people 469, 473manatees 412, 514mangroves 375, 497



554

INDEX M

-N

mantled howler monkeys 145, 179, 224, 246, 320, 380, 412, 413, 431, 512

Manuel Antonio Village 315-17, see also Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

Manzanillo 448-9maps 524-5marine animals 514-15Mariposario de Cahuita 424Matapalo 323measures 522media 477-8, 488medical services 523mobile phones 19Moín 410money 18, 19, 21, 520, 525-6monkeys 317, 320, 512-13

capuchin monkeys 190, 318, 320, 380, 383, 413, 421, 431, 469, 512, 11, 512

mantled howler monkeys 145, 179, 224, 246, 320, 380, 412, 413, 431, 512

spider monkeys 348, 384, 413, 500, 512

squirrel monkeys 312, 313, 318, 319, 320, 340, 384, 513, 320

Monteverde 158-71, 174-7, 160accommodations 167-71activities 163-5courses 165drinking 175emergency services 176entertainment 175festivals 165food 171, 174-5medical services 176shopping 175-8sights 159-63tourist offices 176tours 165-6travel to/from 176-7travel within 177

Monteverde Cloud Forest see Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

Montezuma 9, 260-6, 261, 9Monumento Nacional Arqueológico

Guayabo 128mosquitoes 325motorcycle travel 533-4, 536-7mountain biking 42-3, 535Muelle de San Carlos 466museums & galleries

Casa de la Cultura 112

Ecomuseo de las Minasde Abangares 157

Elias Leiva Museum of Ethnography 116

La Casa de la Cultura 278Museo de Arte Costarricense 22,

61Museo de Arte y Diseño

Contemporáneo 58-9Museo de Ciencias Naturales

La Salle 62Museo de Cultura Popular 115Museo de Insectos 85-6Museo de Jade 58Museo de los Niños & Galería

Nacional 61Museo de Oro Precolombino

y Numismática 54Museo de San José Orosi 121Museo Histórico Marino 278Museo Juan Santamaría 95Museo Municipal de Cartago

116Museo Nacional de Costa Rica

55Studio of Fran Vázques 451TEOR/éTica 59

music 491

Nnational parks & refuges 501-2, 503

Area de Conservacion Guanacaste 200-3

Aviarios del Caribe SlothSanctuary 421

Barra del Colorado 419-20Carribean coast 400Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge 401Hacienda Barú National Wildlife

Refuge 323-4, 300, 300Jaguar Centro de Rescate 445northern lowlands 456northwestern Costa Rica 131Pacific coast 275Parque Internacional La Amistad

356-7Parque Nacional Barra Honda

237-9Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo

401-2Parque Nacional Cahuita 431-2,

432Parque Nacional Carara 281-4Parque Nacional Chirripó 345,

348-50, 347Parque Nacional Corcovado 9,

382-8, 385, 9Parque Nacional Guanacaste

204-5Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos

395-6, 372

Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco 110-11

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 340, 346

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 8, 317-22, 310, 8, 320, 321

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 300, 331-2, 301

Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas De Guanacaste 224-5

Parque Nacional Palo Verde 189-90Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas

391Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja

197-200Parque Nacional Tapantí – Macizo

Cerro de la Muerte 122-3Parque Nacional Tortuguero 9,

412-14, 9, 423Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

145-7, 154, 499Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú

120, 118Parque Nacional Volcán Poás

103-5Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

183-6, 154Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba

129Península de Nicoya 212Península de Osa 359Rancho La Merced National Wildlife

Refuge 300, 330, 300Refugio Nacional de Fauna

Silvestre Golfito 389Refugio Nacional de Fauna

Silvestre Ostional 246-7Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Bahía Junquillal 204Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Caño Negro 468-71Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Curú 257Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 449-51, 498

Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 362-4Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo

Blanco 267-8, 223southern Costa Rica 335Tirimbina Rainforest Center 458

Neily 352-3Nicaragua

relations with 489border crossings 206, 421, 468,

532-3Nicaraguan war 486-7Nicoya 236-7, 237northern lowlands 49, 453-74, 454Nosara 14, 239, 242-46, 258, 14Nuevo Arenal 152


555IN

DEX O-P

Oocelots 112, 123, 182, 197, 257, 357,

384, 391, 401, 513Ojochal 332-3olive ridley turtles 201, 202, 246, 253,

331, 383, 501, 514, 515opening hours 520orchids 121, 159, 161, 197, 402, 495,

500 Orosi 121-2oxcarts 26, 63, 89, 106, 109, 527,

28, 119

PPacific coast 48, 274-333, 493, 276painting 491-2Palmar 352Panama border crossings 353, 451, 533Paquera 256-7Paraíso 121Parismina 410-12parks, see biological reserves,

gardens, national parks & refugesParque Internacional La Amistad

356-7Parque Nacional Barra Honda 237-9Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 401-2Parque Nacional Cahuita 431-2, 432Parque Nacional Carara 281-4Parque Nacional Chirripó 345,

348-50, 347Parque Nacional Corcovado 9, 382-8,

385, 9Parque Nacional Esquinas,

see Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas

Parque Nacional Guanacaste 204-5Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos

395-6, 372 Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco

110-11Parque Nacional Los Quetzales

340, 346Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 8,

317-22, 310, 8, 320, 321Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 300,

331-2, 301Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas

De Guanacaste 224-5Parque Nacional Palo Verde 189-90Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas 391Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja

197-200Parque Nacional Tapantí – Macizo

Cerro de la Muerte 122-3Parque Nacional Tortuguero 9, 412-14,

9, 423Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 145-7,

154, 499Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú 120, 118

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 103-5Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

183-6, 154Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba 129Parque Reptilandia 325Parque Zoológico Nacional Simón

Bolívar 63Parrita 299parrots 123, 197, 202, 283, 401,

449, 508Paso Canoas 353passports 528, 531Pavones 393-5, 373Península de Nicoya 48, 209-73, 210Península de Osa 48, 358-88, 360photography 526planning 20-1, see also itineraries

bird-watching 39budgeting 18calendar of events 26-8children 44-6Costa Rica basics 18-19Costa Rica’s regions 47-9cycling 42-3diving & snorkeling 41-2fishing 43hiking 35-6horseback riding 42internet resources 19kayaking 39-41mountain biking 42-3repeat visitors 22surfing 38travel seasons 18white-water rafting 39, 41

plants 172, see also individual speciesPlaya Avellanas 231-3, 258, 223Playa Bonita 409-10Playa Brasilito 219-20Playa Carrillo 240, 251-2, 240, 499Playa Cativo 391-2Playa Cocles 445Playa Conchal 220Playa Coyote 240, 253-5, 241Playa Danta 217-18Playa del Coco 212-15, 222Playa El Carmen 268Playa Espadilla 315Playa Espadilla Sur 318Playa Esterillos 298-9Playa Flamingo 218-19Playa Grande 220-1, 224, 258Playa Guiones 242, 14, 258Playa Hermosa (central Pacific coast)

296-8 Playa Hermosa (Península de Nicoya)

215-16Playa Herradura 285, 288

Playa Junquillal 233-5, 240Playa Manuel Antonio 318Playa Manzanillo 268Playa Naranjo 255Playa Negra (Carribean coast) 424Playa Negra (Península de Nicoya)

231-3, 258Playa Nicuesa 391-2Playa Ocotal 216-17Playa Palo Seco 299Playa Pan de Azúcar 217, 240Playa Penca 218, 240, 240Playa Platanares 365Playa Pochote 257, 260Playa Sámara 13, 247-51, 12Playa San Isidro 281Playa San Josecito 391-2Playa San Miguel 240, 253-4Playa Santa Teresa 10, 268, 10Playa Tamarindo 225-31, 226

accommodations 228-9activities 225-7courses 227-8drinking 230entertainment 230food 229-30internet access 231medical services 231safety 225tourist offices 230tours 228travel to/from 231travel within 231

Playa Tambor 257, 260Plaza de la Cultura 54, 76poaching 202, 234, 246, 247, 283,

383, 411, 469poison-dart frogs 284, 303, 325, 381,

391, 421, 501politics 476population 476, 477postal services 526protected areas 501-2, 503, see also

biological reserves, national parks & refuges

public holidays 526Puente La Amistad 183-7Puerto Jiménez 364-9, 366

accommodations 365-7activities 364-5drinking 368food 368for children 368itineraries 365sights 364-5tours 365travel to/from 368-9

Puerto Limón 406-9, 408



556

INDEX P

-S

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí 459-61Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 432-7,

440-4, 434, 16, 422accommodations 437, 440-1activities 433-5, 437courses 435entertainment 443food 441-3internet access 444shopping 443sights 433tours 435-7travel to/from 444travel within 444

Punta Uva 445Puntarenas 278-81pura vida 488

QQuakers 158, 161-3Quepos 302-9, 304quetzals 111, 123, 179, 197, 338, 339,

340, 348, 401, 501, 508, 508

Rrafting, see white-water raftingRainforest Aerial Tram 402, 422rainforests 496, 497, see also national

parks & refugesRancho La Merced National Wildlife

Refuge 300, 330, 300Rara Avis 464red-eyed tree frogs 510, 510Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre

Golfito 389Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre

Ostional 246-7Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Bahía Junquillal 204Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Caño Negro 468-71Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Curú 257Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 449-51, 498 religion 477reptiles 510-11, see also snakesReserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 6, 172, 177-81, 6, 31, 172, 499

Reserva Biológica Dúrika 350Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 421Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 382Reserva Biológica Lomas

de Barbudal 190

Reserva Biológica Nosara 239Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 330Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 362-4Reserva Indígena Boruca 350-1Reserva Indígena Guaymí 362Reserva Indígena Yorkín 444Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo

Blanco 267-8, 223Reserva Santa Elena 172, 180-1riding, see horseback ridingRío Pacuare 125, 126, 118Río Reventazón 125, 126Río Sarapiquí 23, 456, 12riptides 232, 527river rafting, see white-water raftingrock-climbing 22, 124 roseate spoonbills 224, 410, 469ruins, see archaeological sites

Ssafety 134, 527

bus travel 419car travel 536, 537Carribean coast 400Dominical 324hiking 35hitchhiking 537Jacó 289-90northwestern Costa Rica 134Parque Nacional Carara 282Península de Osa 359Playa Tamarindo 225Quepos 304San José 80swimming 232white-water rafting 39, 41

Salsa Brava 437San Carlos (Ciudad Quesada) 131,

134San Gerardo de Dota 338-40San Gerardo de Rivas 343-5San Isidro de El General 341-3, 342San José 15, 47, 52-93, 53, 56, 60

accommodations 52, 64-9activities 63courses 63drinking 74emergency services 80entertainment 74-5, 78-9events 63-4food 52, 69-74for children 66highlights 53internet access 80itineraries 55La Sabana 61-2, 69, 72-4, 64medical services 81safety 80

shopping 79-80sights 54-62tourist offices 81travel to/from 81-4travel within 84-5volunteering 70

San Pedro 85-9San Rafael de Guatuso 472-4San Ramón 111San Vito 354-6Santa Cruz 235-6Santa Elena 158-71, 174-7, 160, see

also Monte verdeSanta María 335, 338Santa Rosa Sector 200Santa Teresa 258, 268-73Santamaría, Juan 483Sarapiquí Valley 13, 456-61, 12Sarchí 108, 109scams 536scarlet macaws 45, 98, 189, 190, 282,

283, 369, 380, 382, 500, 501, 508, 286, 509

scuba diving, see diving & snorkelingsculpture 491-2Selva Bananito 424Serpentario (La Virgen) 456Serpentario (Santa Elena) 159sex trade 529sharks 41, 42, 213, 395, 396, 435,

468, 515, 514shopping 527, see also individual

locationsSierpe 374Siquirres 405-6Sixaola 452sloths 179, 180, 320, 410, 412, 413,

421, 470, 500, 512snakes 107, 147, 159, 202, 510, 511, 511snorkeling, see diving & snorkelingsoccer (football) 490solo travelers 527spas 24, 100, 135, 142, 158, 198, 200,

291, 309spider monkeys 348, 384, 413,

500, 512Spirogyra Jardín de Mariposas 61sportfishing 43, see also fishing,

trout fishingBahía Drake 377-8Barra del Colorado 420Cahuita 425Golfito 389Parismina 412Playa Carrillo 251Playa del Coco 212Playa Tamarindo 225Puerto Jiménez 365Quepos 304-5


557IN

DEX S-W

San Gerardo de Dota 338Zancudo 392

sports 79, 490squirrel monkeys 312, 313, 318, 319,

320, 340, 384, 513, 320Studio of Fran Vázques 451surf casting 43, 251, see also fishing,

sportfishingsurfing 11, 23, 36-8, 490, 37, 11

Area de Conservacion Guanacaste 202-3

Boca Barranca 281courses 38, 221, 226, 227-8, 242,

269, 326, 434Dominical 325, 326Jacó 290Mal País 258, 268-9, 258, 259Manuel Antonio 315Matapalo 323Nosara 242, 258Pavones 393-4Península de Nicoya 258Playa Avellanas 231, 258, 223Playa Bonita 409Playa Carrillo 251Playa Cocles 445Playa El Carmen 268Playa Grande 220-1, 258Playa Guiones 242, 14, 258Playa Hermosa (central Pacific

coast) 297 Playa Manzanillo 268Playa Negra (Península de Nicoya)

231, 258Playa Sámara 248Playa Santa Teresa 268Playa Tamarindo 225-6Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 433-4,

437Salsa Brava 437Santa Teresa 258

sustainable travel 504-6accommodations 506businesses 505ecostays 25, 47, 153, 181, 234, 306,

332, 363, 370, 371, 425, 458, 465, 506

ecotours 228, 262, 305, 365, 378, 460

wildlife 501swimming, see also beaches,

waterfallssafety 232

TTárcoles 284-5taxis 538Teatro Nacional 55, 78, 15, 76telephone services 528

TEOR/éTica 59theater 78theft 527, see also safetyTilarán 156-7time 528tipping 21, 526Tirimbina Rainforest Center 458toads 167, 510toilets 528Tortuguero village 414-19

accommodations 415-17activities 415drinking 418entertainment 418food 417-18internet access 418sights 415tours 415travel to/from 418-19

toucans 45, 123, 128, 189, 197, 320, 401, 413, 421, 508, 24, 508

tourist information 528tours, see individual locationstraditional medicine 355travel to/from Costa Rica 531-4travel within Costa Rica 534-8traveler’s checks 526Tree of Life 424trekking, see hikingtropical dry forest 496trout fishing 25, 48, 338, 339, see

also fishing, sportfishingTurrialba 124-5, 127-8 turtles

green 246, 383, 410, 411, 438, 439

hawksbill 252, 331, 412, 438, 450, 501, 438

leatherback 220, 224, 234, 411, 412, 438, 450, 501, 515, 438

loggerhead 412, 438, 450olive ridley 201, 202, 246, 253, 331,

383, 501, 514, 515turtle-watching

Carribean coast 438Nosara 242Parismina 411Parque Nacional Corcovado

383Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

331Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas

de Guanacaste 224-5Parque Nacional Tortuguero

412-13Refugio Nacional de Fauna

Silvestre Ostional 246Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Gandoca-Manzanillo 450typhoid 524

UUjarrás 124United Fruit Company 275, 388, 403,

406, 456, 485Upala 471-2Uvita 329-31

Vvacations 526Valle de Dota 335, 338Valle de Orosi 120-4vegetarian travelers 522Venado Caves 472-3Venecia 465Veragua Rainforest Research &

Adventure Park 406visas 19, 528-9volcanoes 146, 527

Volcán Arenal 6, 145, 7, 31, 154, 499

Volcán Barva 401Volcán Cacao 204, 205Volcán Irazú 120Volcán Miravalles 187Volcán Orosi 204, 205Volcán Poás 103Volcán Rincón de la Vieja 197, 198Volcán Tenorio 184-5Volcán Turrialba 129

volunteering 529-30

Wwaterfalls

Catarata de Río Celeste 184Catarata La Cangreja 198Catarata Manantial de Agua Viva

284, 300Catarata San Luis 164, 172, 172Centro Turístico Cataratas Nauyaca

324-5La Catarata de la Fortuna 135-6La Catarata de la Paz 105Las Cataratas de Los Chorros 107Llanos de Cortés 188Montezuma Waterfall 263Selva Bananito 424

weather 18, 26-8, 520, see also climate

websites, see internet resourcesweights 522whales 319, 331, 382, 514, 507whale-watching

Bahía Drake 378Manuel Antonio Village 315-16Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

300, 331Playas Pochote & Tambor 257Puerto Jiménez 365



558

INDEX W

-Z

white-water rafting 8, 23, 39, 41, 8, 118, see also canoeing, kayaking

Cañas 182Dominical 325La Fortuna 139La Virgen 456-7Orosi 121-2Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

319Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 435Quepos 305Río Pacuare 125, 126Río Reventazón 126safety 39, 41

wildlife 495-7, 500-501, 507-16,see also individual species

wildlife-watching 11, 24, 38-9, 500Area de Conservacion Guanacaste

202Bahía Drake 380Hacienda Barú National Wildlife

Refuge 323Los Ángeles Cloud Forest

Adventure Park 111-12Monumento Nacional Arqueológico

Guayabo 128Parque Internacional La Amistad

357Parque Nacional Barra Honda 238Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 401Parque Nacional Carara 283Parque Nacional Corcovado

383-4

Parque Nacional Isla del Cocos 396Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

318-19, 320Parque Nacional Marino Ballena

331Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas

391Parque Nacional Rincón de la

Vieja 197Parque Nacional Tapantí – Macizo

Cerro de la Muerte 123Parque Nacional Tortuguero 413-14Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre

Caño Negro 469Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 179, 172Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 421Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo

Blanco 267Tárcoles 284-5waterways 470

Wilson Botanical Garden 353-4windsurfing 39, 150women in Costa Rica 490woodcrafts 93work 530

Yyachtingyoga

courses 221, 242, 262, 269, 325, 394

Dominical 325

Mal País 269Montezuma 262Nosara 242Pavones 394Playa Hermosa (central Pacific

coast) 297Playa Tamarindo 227Santa Teresa 269Sueño Azul Resort 462

ZZancudo 392-3Zarcero 108-9zip lining see canopy tourszoos

Arenal EcoZoo 147Bat Jungle 159, 161El Jardín de las Mariposas 159Las Pumas 182Parque Reptilandia 325Parque Zoológico Nacional Simón

Bolívar 63Ranario 159Serpentario (La Virgen) 456Serpentario (Santa Elena)

159Zoo Ave 105


559

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:

1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking

r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment

2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping

C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tubei Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram

d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation

F No payment required

S A green or sustainable option

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

Post OfficeTourist Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Cable Car/Funicular

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport

Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

36-how-to-use-this-book-cos10.indd 55936-how-to-use-this-book-cos10.indd 559 12/07/2012 4:25:25 PM12/07/2012 4:25:25 PM

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Lina Andersson, Deborah Bakker, Jolande Bakker, Julie Bergeron, Laura Berli, Fanny Bernadet, Helen Bonser, Jim Brady, Carla Caamaño, Sandra Chatelain, Rob-ert Chmura, Lauren Cleaver, Nick Dillen, Luke Duggan, Sophie Durandet, Maria Eugenia, Chani Fajka, J-f Gregoire, Peter Grossnickle, Rina Hakimian, Kaya Hansen, Sandy Hunter, Karyn Kaplan, Tsipi & Raanan Kessel, Christina Kolmert, Eline Kooijman, Wojtek Kosarzecki, Lauri Koseff , Branton Kunz, Edo Lamoree, Corina Landert, Alison Lee, Jean-Claude Lefebvre, Tomas Ludvik, Jorge Marin, Matt Muir, Steven Neumeier, Barry O’Hara, Elia Petrou, Tom Phillips, Berni Picado, Gail Pike, Rosa Prado, Sarah Riches, Chris Ridderbeks, Chris Ross, Mateo Saave-dra, Jonathan Saborío M, Perrine Sandrea, Bryan Scholes, Alex Serrano, Henrik Stabell, Carl Stein, Bianca Tate, Ingrid Thuet, Eelco Timmerman, Marcel Unkelbach, Silke Van Deelen, Jan Van Der Holst, Arie Van Ooster-wijk, Frans Van Woerkom, Robert Vogt, Kari Volkmann-Carlsen, Magdalena Wodyńska, Maria Wright, Kristina Ziccardi

AUTHOR THANKS Nate Cavalieri Thanks most to Felipe Pardo, a Manuel Antonio guide and godsend, who found and returned a book of notes for this guide after I dropped them on a trail. For the informa-tion and the company, thanks also to Jorge Picado, Matt Sulkis, Carlos Meneo and Jenny Shrum. Thanks to Cat, Adam, Wendy and the Christo team who made working on this title a pleasure.

Adam Skolnick Many thanks to Mariana Estrada; the entire Pension Santa Elena family; Le Tois Dora; Joel at Celeste Mountain Lodge; Miranda and Phoenix; Prue, Josie and Margaret in Santa Teresa; and Aidan and Vicky in Mal País. Thanks especially to Emilio and Pablo for an incredible afternoon of spearfi shing and lobster diving. Thanks also to co-conspirators Nate, Wendy, Cat Craddock and Christo. And to sweet and lovely Georgiana Johnson.

Wendy Yanagihara Thanks to everyone who knowingly and un-knowingly gave me intel in Costa Rica or oth-erwise helped me along on the road. Special thanks to Marise and Pierre, Natalie, Andrés, Castor, Cristian, Sebastian, Alex and Amelia, Vicky Taylor and the South African pirates

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travel ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travel ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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33-behind-the-scenes-cos10.indd 54633-behind-the-scenes-cos10.indd 546 13/07/2012 3:36:21 PM13/07/2012 3:36:21 PM

547BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

who kidnapped me in Bocas del Toro. Fuerte abrazos to Victoria for hanging with Jasper, and to Austin for post-research adventures in Nicaragua.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Cover photograph: Frog, Parque Nacional Tortuguero, Paolo Giocoso/4Corners Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

This Book This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Costa Rica guidebook was researched and written by Nate Cavalieri, Adam Skolnick and Wendy Yanagihara. The previ-ous edition was researched and written by Matthew D Firestone, Carolina A Miranda and César G Soriano. The 8th edition was researched and written by Mat-thew D Firestone, Guyan Mitra and Wendy Yanagihara. This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Catherine Craddock-Carrillo

Coordinating EditorNigel Chin Coordinating Carto-grapher Marc Milinkovic Coordinating Layout Designer Frank Deim Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Bruce Evans, Dianne Schallmeiner Managing Cartographers Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Janice Bird, Cathryn Game, Lauren Hunt, Kim Hutchins, Joanne Newell, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr Assisting Cartographer Mick Garrett

Assisting Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia

Cover Research Naomi Parker

Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant

Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic

Thanks to Dan Austin, Anita Banh, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Tobias Gattineau, Asha Ioculari, Carol Jackson, Jouve India, Pat Kinsella, Kellie Langdon, Alex Leung, Bella Li, Trent Paton, Averil Robertson, Fiona Siseman, Gerard Walker, Jeanette Wall, Amanda Williamson

33-behind-the-scenes-cos10.indd 54733-behind-the-scenes-cos10.indd 547 13/07/2012 3:36:27 PM13/07/2012 3:36:27 PM

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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