Chile & Easter Island

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Carolyn McCarthy, Greg Benchwick, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Kevin Raub, Lucas Vidgen

p397(Rapa Nui)

p376Tierra del Fuegop334

Southern Patagonia

p301Northern Patagonia

p281Chiloé

p223Sur Chico

p87Middle Chile p44

Santiago

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p143Norte Grande

Easter Island

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Chile . . . . . . . .6

Chile Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Chile’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . 22

Month by Month . . . . . . . 25

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Chile Outdoors . . . . . . . . 33

Travel with Children . . . . 38

Regions at a Glance . . . . 40

SANTIAGO . . . . . . . . . 44History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 62Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 71Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 73Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Around Santiago . . . . . . . 80Pomaire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Maipo Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Cajón del Maipo . . . . . . . . . 81Ski Centers . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

MIDDLE CHILE . . . . . 87Valparaíso & the Central Coast . . . . . . . . . 90Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Viña del Mar . . . . . . . . . . . 101Casablanca Valley . . . . . . 105Quintay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Isla Negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Parque Nacional La Campana . . . . . . . . . . . 108Aconcagua Valley . . . . . 109Los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

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Contents

Portillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Southern Heartland . . . . 111Colchagua Valley . . . . . . . .111Pichilemu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Curicó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas . . . . . . . 118Maule Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 119Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay . . . . . . . . . 121Chillán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Termas de Chillán & Valle Las Trancas . . . . . 125Coastal Towns . . . . . . . . . . 126Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Salto del Laja . . . . . . . . . . 129

Los Angeles . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja . . . . . . . . 135Angol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Archipiélago Juan Fernández . . . . . . . . . . . 137San Juan Bautista . . . . . . 140Parque Nacional Archipiélago Juan Fernández . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

NORTE GRANDE . . . . . . . . . . . 143San Pedro de Atacama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146

Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos . . . . . . . . . 155El Tatio Geysers . . . . . . . . 162Calama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Chuquicamata . . . . . . . . . 164Antofagasta . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Iquique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168East of Iquique . . . . . . . . . 176Pisagua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Arica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Azapa Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 187Chile 11 Highway . . . . . . . . 188Putre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Parque Nacional Lauca . . . . . . . . 192

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NORTE CHICO . . . . . 195La Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Elqui Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .205Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt . . . .211Huasco Valley . . . . . . . . . . 213Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe . . . . . . . . 214Copiapó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces . . . . . 217Ojos del Salado . . . . . . . . . 217Caldera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Bahía Inglesa . . . . . . . . . . 219Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar . . . . . . . . . .220

SUR CHICO . . . . . . . 223La Araucanía . . . . . . . . . 227Temuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Parque Nacional Conguillío . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Curacautín . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas . . . 232Melipeuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Villarrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Pucón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Parque Nacional Villarrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Río Liucura Valley . . . . . . . 245Parque Nacional Huerquehue . . . . . . . . . . . 246Curarrehue . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Los Ríos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Valdivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248The Lakes District . . . . 252Osorno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Parque Nacional Puyehue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Puerto Varas . . . . . . . . . . . 259Ensenada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales . . . 268Cochamó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Cochamó Valley . . . . . . . . 271Río Puelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Río Puelo Valley . . . . . . . . 273Puerto Montt . . . . . . . . . . . 274

CHILOÉ . . . . . . . . . . . 281Ancud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Quemchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Isla Mechuque . . . . . . . . . 289Dalcahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Isla Quinchao . . . . . . . . . . 291Castro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Parque Nacional Chiloé . . . . . . . . 298Quellón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300

NORTHERN PATAGONIA . . . . . . . 301Hornopirén . . . . . . . . . . . .304Parque Nacional Hornopirén . . . . . . . . . . . .305Parque Pumalín . . . . . . . .305

Chaitén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Palena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312La Junta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Puyuhuapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Termas de Puyuhuapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Parque Nacional Queulat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316Coyhaique . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Reserva Nacional Coyhaique . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Reserva Nacional Río Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . 322Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas . . . . . . . . . . . 322Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael . . . . . . 322Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo . . . . . . . . . . 323Villa Cerro Castillo . . . . . . 323Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Chile Chico . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Puerto Río Tranquilo . . . . 326Cruce el Maitén . . . . . . . . 327Puerto Guadal . . . . . . . . . . 327

Contents

Puerto Bertrand & the Baker River . . . . . . . 327Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Cochrane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Reserva Nacional Tamango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331Caleta Tortel . . . . . . . . . . . 331Villa O’Higgins . . . . . . . . . 332

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA . . . . . . . 334Magallanes . . . . . . . . . . 336Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 336Última Esperanza . . . . . 346Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . .346Cueva del Milodón . . . . . . 353Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins . . . . . 353Parque Nacional Torres del Paine . . . . . . . . 353Argentine Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . 362El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Perito Moreno & Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) . . . 367

El Chaltén & Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .368

TIERRA DEL FUEGO . . . . . . . . . . . 376Chilean Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . . . . . . 377Porvenir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380Parque Nacional Yendegaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Isla Navarino . . . . . . . . . . . 382Cabo de Hornos & Surrounding Islands . . . .386Argentine Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . .394Tolhuin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Río Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . .396

EASTER ISLAND (RAPA NUI) . . . . . . . 397Hanga Roa . . . . . . . . . . . . .398Parque Nacional Rapa Nui . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406Understand Easter Island . . . . . . . . . . . 407Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . .409

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

Chile Today . . . . . . . . . . .412

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414

Life in Chile . . . . . . . . . . 427

Chilean Wine . . . . . . . . . 429

Literature & Cinema . . 432

The Natural World . . . . 435

National Parks . . . . . . . 440

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 444

Transportation . . . . . . . 454

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 463

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .471

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 478

SPECIAL FEATURESChile Outdoors . . . . . . 33

Argentine Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . 362

Argentine Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . . . . 387

Chilean Wine . . . . . . . 429

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Best of Chile

Skate through Chile’s amazing diversity in one month. From Santiago, feed your imagi-nation exploring boho Valparaíso. In winter, hit nearby powder stashes at top Andean resorts like Portillo.

Then turn up the dial with desert heat. Fly or bus to the highland village of San Pe-dro de Atacama. Absorb altiplano ambience visiting the moon-like Valle de la Luna, the steaming and strange El Tatio geysers and the stark Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos. Wind up days of hiking, horseback riding or volcano climbing with mellow evening bonfires and star-stocked skies.

Return south to delve into temperate rainforest in Pucón, where rafting, hiking and hot springs fill up your Lakes District dance card. From Puerto Montt, detour to folklore capital Chiloé, or cruise on a four-day ferry ride through glacier-laced fjords to Puerto Natales. By now you are probably in top shape for Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Take three days to a week at this world-famous hiking destination. Or skip southern Patagonia to hop a plane to Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and puzzle over its archaeological treasures for five days.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

4 WEEKS

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It’s hard to beat central Chile when it comes to wining and dining in the finest South American traditions. From urban vinotecas to vineyards that sit in the shadows of the Andes, the scene ranges from vibrant and dynamic to deliciously chilled out.

Start with a few nights in the happening capital, Santiago. Stroll around the historic center, break for a lively seafood lunch in the clamoring Mercado Central and tour La Chascona, Pablo Neruda’s Bellavista home. Sip champagne at Boca Naríz or catch experi-mental dance at the Centro Gabriela Mistral.

Big-bodied reds are crafted in Santiago’s outskirts; sample from commercial heavy hitters Viña Concha y Toro and boutique winemakers Viña Aquitania. Sample the whites of Casablanca Valley, where aspiring pickers can join Viña Casas del Bosque’s March harvest. In summer, the Santa Cruz Tren Sabores del Valle offers train service from Santiago and on-board wine tastings.

On to funky Valparaíso to walk its famously steep hills and ride antique elevators, like Cerro Concepción, the city’s oldest. Wander the graffitied passageways, step into Neruda’s La Sebastiana getaway and feast on freshly caught fish. Exhausted from the urban hiking? Unwind at nearby resort cities Viña del Mar, Zapallar or Maitencillo for a quick beach getaway.

Finish in Chile’s best-known wine region, Colchagua Valley. Overnight in Santa Cruz with a morning visit to the Museo de Colchagua before a carriage ride at Viu Manent, or a world-class prix-fixe lunch at Lapostolle. Go surfing at relaxed party town Pichilemu or visit the lesser-known wineries of Maule Valley.

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If you wish to travel only back roads, if you desire getting dirty, almost lost and awe-inspired, look no further than this four-week plan. Following the Carretera Austral, this route crisscrosses its little-known offshoots and gives you plenty of time on the hoof. Summer, with better connections and warm weather, is the best time to go.

Leave Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas for the Cochamó or Río Puelo valleys, where you can hike or horseback ride, camp or stay at remote lodgings. From Puerto Montt, ferry to Parque Pumalín and explore ancient forests and climb to the steaming crater of Volcán Chaitén. Ramble the Carretera Austral to Futaleufú, for stunning rural vistas and heart-pumping whitewater. Check out the hot-springs options near Puyuhuapi or camp under the hanging glacier at Parque Nacional Queulat.

Coyhaique is the next major hub. After making connections to Chile Chico on the enormous Lago General Carrera, hop the border to Los Antiguos and travel Argentina’s classic Ruta 40 to El Chaltén for hiking around the gnarled tooth of Cerro Fitz Roy. Take two days to visit El Calafate, spending one under the spell of the magnificent gla-cier Perito Moreno in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. While you’re there, feast on giant steaks and bottles of peppery Malbec.

From El Calafate it’s an easy bus connection to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine via Puerto Natales. Hike the ‘W’ route or go for the full week-long circuit. By now you’re in prime hiking shape – enjoy passing others on the trail. Return to Natales for post-trek pampering, namely handcrafted beer, hot tubs and thin-crust pizza. If you have time, return to Puerto Montt via the Navimag ferry.

An alternative route would be to skip Chile Chico and follow the Carretera Austral to its southern terminus – Villa O’Higgins. Relax, go fishing and hike. From here, a rug-ged boat-hike combination can get you across the border to El Chaltén, where you can rejoin the itinerary a week behind schedule.

4 WEEKS

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How about a few days sleeping under star-crazy skies and following condor shadows along desert mountaintops? You’ll need a 4WD and plenty of food, water and extra gas. Start with a surfboard in Iquique to sample the swells of Playa Cavancha and Playa Huaiquique, then jump off a cliff on a tandem paragliding jaunt. With the adrenaline rush in place, slow things down with a contemplative wander around nitrate ghost towns Santa Laura and Humberstone, where you can poke around the creepy aban-doned buildings of these once flourishing spots and explore their crumbling grandeur.

Head north, with an optional stop in the isolated coastal town of Pisagua, once a bustling nitrate-era port, then a penal colony and today a nearly abandoned and strangely lyrical place where algae gatherers work alongside the ruins of busted mansions; don’t miss the windswept old cemetery sloping forlorn on a nearby hill.

Cheer up in sunny Arica, where plenty of surf awaits below the dramatic headland of El Morro and remarkably preserved Chinchorro mummies lie in situ at the small museum just below the hill. From the coast, head inland via Hwy 11, passing geoglyphs, colonial chapels and misty mountain hamlets, to the pretty Andean village of Putre. Take a day or two here to catch your breath, literally, as Putre sits at a dizzying altitude of 3530m.

Once you’ve adjusted to the height, head to nearby Parque Nacional Lauca, where you can take in the perfect cone of Volcán Parinacota, wander through the tiny Aymara village with the same name and walk around the lovely Lago Chungará, all paired with awesome wildlife sightings in this Unesco Biosphere Reserve.

Further south, the remote Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas shelters thousands of these flighty creatures and few interlopers to spook them, so go easy. Heading south on tough terrain past dazzling landscapes and through the isolated salt flat of Monumento Natural Salar de Surire with its three flamingo species (best seen between December and April), your reward for an adventurous ride is reaching the ultra-removed Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga, before looping back to Iquique.

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Kevin Raub Sur Chico, Chiloé Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and moved to Brazil. On this, his third run through Sur Chico and Chiloé, he discovered – through meticulous trial and error – that Chilean craft beer has finally arrived! If there are any holes in his chapters, blame the beer! This is

Kevin’s 33rd Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Lucas Vidgen Norte Grande, Norte Chico Lucas first gaped at northern Chile’s wide open skies and gorgeous coastline back in 2003, and since then has made it a point of getting back whenever he can. He now lives in Guatemala and rambles around Latin America for Lonely Planet, covering destinations from Mexico to Argentine Patagonia. In his brief forays at home he publishes – and occasionally works on – Quetzaltenango’s leading culture and nightlife

magazine, XelaWho.

Contributing Author Grant Phelps trained in the art of winemaking in his native New Zealand and embarked on a 10-year career as a ‘flying winemaker,’ working harvests in seven different countries before experiencing a wine-fueled epiphany in Chile. He is currently chief winemaker for Viña Casas del Bosque, in the Casablanca Valley. He wrote the Chilean Wine chapter.

Read more about Kevin at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub

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Carolyn McCarthy Coordinating Author, Northern Patagonia, Southern Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego For Carolyn, a trip to Patagonia is always a reminder of what’s good in the world. For this trip she boarded eight ferries, explored Punta Arenas with snow flurries, punctured a tire and broke down on the Carretera Austral, crowdsourced car repairs, met hitchhikers and backpacked through Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni and Parque Nacional Patagonia. Her writing specializes in Latin America and

the US West. She has contributed to over 30 titles for Lonely Planet, including Panama, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Argentina, Peru, Colorado, Southwest USA and national parks guides. She has also written for Outside, BBC Magazine, National Geographic and other publications. For more information, see www.carolynmccarthy.pressfolios.com or follow her on Instagram @masmerquen and Twitter @roamingMcC. Carolyn also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand Chile and Survival Guide sections.

Greg Benchwick Santiago, Middle Chile Greg first came to Chile in 2000 on a diesel-charged holiday from his job as a reporter at The Bolivian Times. Since that first trip, Greg has returned to Chile on a regular basis. For this edition, he finally got a chance to head south of Santiago and explore the vineyards, surf breaks and Andean hikes of Middle Chile. Greg has written speeches for the United Nations, interviewed Grammy Award winners and created dozens of videos and web

features for lonelyplanet.com. He is an expert on sustainable travel, international development, food, wine and having a good time.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a fan of Polynesian history and culture. He’s made many trips to the Polynesian Triangle, including five to Easter Island. On this gig, he searched for the best-value accommodations and restaurants, and the most spectacular hike, and spent time on the field with local archaeologists. His favorite experiences included walking around Península Poike and descending into the dead volcano

Rano Kau with a local expert. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and writes for travel magazines.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

10th edition – Oct 2015ISBN 978 1 74220 780 3© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Greg at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/gbenchwick

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