local connections halifax - summer 2014

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L U C K E T T V I N E Y A R D S + S A U S A G E F E S T G U I D E + G R A P E E S C A P E S

A celebration of lifestyle and entrepreneurship in Nova Scotia.Wine & Travel

DestinationLunenburgA three part, 8 page feature on one of Nova Scotia's greatest treasures.

FARMERS' MARKETS OF NOVA SCOTIA MAP INSIDEpage 46

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Contents

16

3L O C A L C O N N E C T I O N S H A L I F A X | S u m m e r 2 0 1 4

f LocalConnectionsHalifax l ConnectionsHFX20

Issue Number 10, Volume 3 - Summer 2014

8Local Discoveries

A look at some amazing finds from last quarter.

18Community Builders

Q & A with Keltie Butler and features on Jimmy Lefresne and

David Hovell.

24Cover Story

The story of Donna & Carl Sparkes and their passion for wine

and business.

28Nova Scotian Wine

Features on Luckett Vineyards, the Wolfville Magic Winery Bus, and

Grape Escapes.

38Destination Lunenburg

An 8 page, three part feature on one of Nova Scotia's greatest treasures.

53Sausage Fest Guide

Our 24 page guide to a celebration of local food and people.

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32

The KiTchen Table season 3EvEry Friday and Saturday Starting SEptEmbEr 2014

Reservations ratinaud.ca/thekitchentable

Edito

r's M

essa

ge It's That Time Again.T here's something so incredibly cool about being able to hop in the car and head off , in any direction, for a memorable day time road trip. All you need is a car (or someone with a car), some gas, and a few bucks for the day's activities. For me, this is one of the best perks of living in Halifax. Of course, for those with a greater sense of planning, there's more on tap than a simple day trip to

the Annapolis Valley or Lunenburg. What awaits those willing to invest a little more of

their time is a full weekend (or several weekdays) of fantastic Nova Scotian adventure.

So why not take advantage of this luxury?

Every year, people come from all over the world come to discover Nova Scotia, but as

locals, we have the advantage. This is our home after all, and we each have an abundance

of unfiltered access to information on what's going on in our bountiful province. To add

to what's already available to you, we decided to dedicate an entire issue to Nova Scotia,

furthering your available 'local travel' resources. This issue is not meant to be a tour

guide per se, but instead what we're offering is some of the insights and story-telling

which go beyond what the tourists have access to, and we think we've uncovered some

of the best our region has to offer. In many cases, we've taken you behind the scenes and

given you access to some of the best people and places we have here in Nova Scotia, but

now it's up to you to continue the story.

In producing this ambitious 96 page issue, we actually did a fair bit of road-tripping

ourselves. We travelled to a number of towns, all of which were an arm's throw away

from Halifax, where we met the locals, tried their wines, tasted their food, shopped in

their boutiques, and discovered a bit about their history and about what makes them

tick. In many cases we visited these towns more than once, and now find ourselves with

a greater understanding and appreciation for what we have, but we also find ourselves

wanting more.

By the time this magazine hits the stands, we'll be just over three weeks away from

Sausage Fest (August 14 - 24), which is an event series we started last year, and once

again, it will be a showcase of the BEST our region has to offer. This year's program

will be even bigger and better than last year, with 32 participants from Halifax, the

Annapolis Valley, and Lunenburg. Our participating chefs and producers will once

again amaze our palettes, and in some cases host pop-up events which deserve to be

on everyone's to-do list this summer. We hope that you will be able to find some time

to get away from your desks and join us for this grand celebration of local abundance.

Alexander HendenEditor in Chief

The KiTchen Table season 3EvEry Friday and Saturday Starting SEptEmbEr 2014

Reservations ratinaud.ca/thekitchentable

Cont

ribut

ors

RILEY SMITHChief photographer and world traveller. Riley has photographed many a Coast cover, as well as all of ours. Our main man since day one.

PHIL OTTOCEO and Senior Brand Strategist at Revolve Branding.

JORDAN WHITEHOUSEFreelance journalist and communications consultant who's work has been featured in such publications as Atlantic Business Magazine, Progress, Halifax Magazine and The Coast.

JESSIE HARROLDWriter about all things food, birth, travel, parenting and adventure; blogger at www.purplehousecafe.com. Drinks an absurd amount of fancy coffee, rides a motorcycle, surfs, and attends births in her spare time.

SCOTT MACDONALDAnimation designer with over 12 years experience, full time animation designer at DHX Media Halifax, freelance illustrator, character designer, artist, animator, cartoonist, walker, cyclist and dog Owner.

TRACY PHILLIPPICraft beer writer, Certified Beer Judge, Ladies Beer League founder, Canadian Brewing Awards organizer, and home brewing dabbler. An all around crusader for local craft beer & lover of fine cheese!

LIA RINALDOSenior food writer, blogger, food enthusiast, and events veteran. One half of Devour! The Film Food Fest and our resident expert on all things delicious.

KATHLEEN HIGGINSToronto born, Nova Scotia raised. Honours graduate from King's College, and freelancer for The Coast, Tidings, Visual Arts News, and Pink Noise. Our go-to A&E girl.

LINDSAY BURNSSmall business consultant, marketing mind, travel enthusiast, local supporter, animal snuggler, food lover, optimist & proud Nova Scotian.

LOLA AUGUSTINE BROWNOur senior features writer. 19 years freelance experience including work for the Toronto Star, Globe and Mail, Canadian Living, Canadian Family, Today's Parent, Fashion, and Flare.

SIMON THIBAULTHalifax-based journalist and writer. His work focuses on the culture and politics of food, as well as LGBTQ issues.

LAURA OAKLEYFood and travel writer with a background in hospitality. Specializes in content marketing and social media management.

ALISON DELORYAlison Delory is author of Lunar Lifter, editor of Folia Montana magazine, freelance journalist, and writing instructor at Mount Saint Vincent University.

RODNEY HABIBAward winning pet nutrition blogger, podcast/radio show host, magazine writer, local pet health shop owner, and more importantly, a pet parent and advocate.

CHRIS DEWAALEntrepreneur, farmer, butcher, public speaker, and champion of not only local food but a local mindset.

EMILY FORRESTLocal enthusiast and owner of Local Tasting Tours. Playwright, performer, and producer of the Local Tasting Tours podcast on iTunes.

Local DISCOVERIES

8 L O C A L C O N N E C T I O N S H A L I F A X | S u m m e r 2 0 1 4

Hot, new local eatery in WolfvilleOur friend, and winner of last year's Extreme Sausage Making Competition (Sausage Fest 2013), Steph Levac, recently opened a delightful caf-style resto inside Gaspereau Valley Fibres on Main Street in Wolfville. While there's no shortage of great places to eat in town, Wool 'n Tart offers something much needed on the Wolfville food scene, and that's light fare at a reasonable price. On our last visit, we enjoyed a lovely bagel sandwich (Steph makes the bagels himself) with homemade soup, salad, and a can of blood orange San Pelligrino, all for around twelve bucks taxes in. Perfect portion for a nice afternoon lunch, and probably one of the best sandwiches we've ever had.

458 Main Street, Wolfville

Sweet spot opens on Grafton StreetThis July, our friends at Scanway Catering are opening the doors to their new storefront, artisinal bakery, patisserie, and caf at 1567 Grafton Street.

scanwaycatering.com

NOVA SCOTIA

THE TALE OF A

The Tale of a TownBack on May 18, 2014, a husband, wife, and toddler trio set out on a nationwide theatre and media initiative, visiting small towns and big cities across the country. The purpose of the three year tour is the preservation of main street culture across Canada, and the group is looking to achieve this through a mix live multimedia presentations, but also through collecting stories from people like you and me. The group has already visited Halifax twice, and if you'd like, you can connect with their collection of stories through their online storyportal.

thetaleofatown.com

Indochine downtownShortly after the release of our "Halifax's BEST 25 Local Eateries" list (Spring 2014), one of 25 our winners, Indochine Banh Mi, opened its second location on Barrington Street downtown. This addition adds yet another layer to an emerging take-out scene downtown, with Mezza Lebanese Kitchen, Pete's To-Go-Go, Flip Burger, etc already in the mix. If you have yet to try Indochine, let this sentence be your cue.

indochine.ca

Cambodian flavoursA new favourite of ours, which we recently discovered at the Alderney Landing Farmers' Market, is Saronn's Kitchen. If curry, coconuts, peanuts, fresh veggies, and rice wraps are your thing, may we suggest you make a visit. The soups are delightful, while the wraps are probably the most refreshing thing to eat in all of Halifax. Of course, not being anchored down with heavy food, you are also left with room for some handmade donuts which are also available at the market in Alderney Landing. We recommend the chocolate Oreo ones.

L SaronnKitchen

The Return of FRED.After a brief hiatus, FRED. food has returned to full form, with some fresh updates of course. With the move of Statement Modern Furnishings (to Sunnyside Mall) earlier this summer, the old space is back, and we're just lovin' it!

fredstyle.ca

Local DISCOVERIES


Fresh Meat at Highland DriveOne of our favourite local butchers, Highland Drive Storehouse and Butchery in the Hydrostone, now has ownership. In a press release on July 7, our friends at Getaway Farm were announced as the new owners, and we're excited to watch them build on the solid foundation previous owner Jessi Gillis had built over the last two years. This move also extends Getaway's footprint, and we're excited by all the potential this move brings to the Hydrostone. In speaking with Chris DeWaal, who also writes for this magazine, they will be taking a slow, organic approach regarding any changes, respecting the talented staff, and valued customers who already frequent the place.

highlanddrive.ca

Saturday, August 16Alderney Landing Ferry Park from 9am to 6pm

PRESENTS

Brough

t to you

by:

Local food fun on the waterfront On Saturday August 16, from 9am to 6pm, Local Connections Halifax is partnering with Select Nova Scotia, Alderney Landing, TELUS, Credit Union Atlantic, Pete's, Premium Nova Scotia Pork, O'Regan's Mini, and Downtown Dartmouth to bring you a free-to-attend family food event, right on the Halifax waterfront. Located at the recently renovated Alderney Landing Ferry Terminal, the day will feature a harbourside BBQ and local food feast, family picnic, a pop-up retail market, the Pete's Chef Cook-off (think Iron Chef), the Premium Nova Scotia Pork's Chef vs. Sausage (for sausage makers), live music, the TELUS kids' zone which includes a petting zoo, and much more. Being on a Saturday, the Alderney Landing Farmers' Market will also be open, so it's really set up to be a day-time experience of epic proportions.

localconnections.ca/events

Nova 7 goes westIn a move to make its wine an official wine of summer from coast to coast, Benjamin Bridge began exporting the 2013 vintage of Nova 7 to liquor stores in most provinces. While it's nice to know we're sharing this gem with the rest of the country, it's also reassuring to know that you can still grab a bottle or two right here in Nova Scotia.

benjaminbridge.com

Inside LunenburgIn late June, we did something we haven't done in a while, and signed ourselves up for the Lunenburg Walking Tour. Normally dismissed as something 'for the tourists', we're super glad we made the time to go on the tour. The hour long excursion was full of amusing insights into the rich history of the town, and how our ancestors used to live, with a strong focus on Lunenburg's culture and architecture. There were even some things we found to be truly surprising, but we don't want to spoil if for you, so you'll just have to take the tour yourself. In some ways it reminded us of Doors Open Halifax, and by the end of the tour we had burned off enough calories to justify having the Lunenburger with chips at the Grand Banker.

lunenburgwalkingtours.com

Lunenburg MarketIf you happen to be going to Lunenburg on a Thursday, you won't want to miss visiting the Farmers' Market. It's also where most of the local chefs (like Martin Ruiz Salvador) do their shopping, and they shop there for good reason.

lunenburgfarmersmarket.ca

PrismaticFestival.com

A Tribe Called Red, JP Cormier, Reeny Smith,

Dinuk Wijeratne, The Sounds of Motown

FreeMAINSTAGE

PERFORMANCESF O R A L L A G E S

ALDERNEY LANDINGAUG 2124

THE SPIRITSOF LUNENBURG

HANDCRAFTED FROMNATURAL INGREDIENTS.ONE BATCH AT A TIME

Ironworks is a micro-distillerylocated in the old port of

Lunenburg on Nova Scotiashistoric South Shore.

We take our name from the 1893heritage building we call home; a marine blacksmiths shop thatonce produced high quality

ironworks for theshipbuilding trade.

We cra our spirits today

with the same love of traditionalmethods and aention to detail.

Drop by to meet our amazing crew,admire our beautiful still &

have a complimentary tasting.

LUNENBURG, NS 902.640.2424

IRONWORKSDISTILLERY.COM

[email protected]

C h r i s D e W a a lf getawayfarmbutchershops l meatmongers

The Pleasure of Local Food


THE SPIRITSOF LUNENBURG

HANDCRAFTED FROMNATURAL INGREDIENTS.ONE BATCH AT A TIME

Ironworks is a micro-distillerylocated in the old port of

Lunenburg on Nova Scotiashistoric South Shore.

We take our name from the 1893heritage building we call home; a marine blacksmiths shop thatonce produced high quality

ironworks for theshipbuilding trade.

We cra our spirits today

with the same love of traditionalmethods and aention to detail.

Drop by to meet our amazing crew,admire our beautiful still &

have a complimentary tasting.

LUNENBURG, NS 902.640.2424

IRONWORKSDISTILLERY.COM

[email protected]

H ave you ever paused to consider just how lucky we are as eaters to be living in Nova Scotia? Consider the landscape before us. We are surrounded by fruit orchards, vegetable fields, berries of all kinds, pasture for livestock, wineries, maple trees, fantastic shellfish, enviable seafood, and of course our beloved lobster. Dig a little deeper and you will find a host of artisanal producers churning out the most amazing wines, beers, liquors, cheeses, breads, preserves, meats, and everything in between. We have at our fingertips a staggering array of incredible ingredients that would make any locally minded chef jealous. To be able to support our local economy, influence our food system, and encourage sustainable practices all the while eating such diverse, world-class food is a truly enviable position to be in.

All the more remarkable is the fact that this cornucopia of food is practically on our doorstep no matter where we live in the province. It is a simple thing to walk out our door and trace the path of our food right to its source. We can meet the people, see the places and watch the processes that are behind the food that end up on our plates. We have the incredible opportunity to engage our food like few can. Not only do we have the opportunity to eat like few can but we have the opportunity to know our food like few can. Wendell Berry has wisely said The pleasure of eating should be an extensive pleasure, not that of the mere gourmet. He is talking about the pleasure of truly knowing

our food, the joy and appreciation that comes from having a first-hand knowledge of all that is involved in the life of our food system. In Nova Scotia, farm-to-table isnt simply a noble ideal but a reflection of the relationships we are able to develop.

This summer, as you plan your family day trips, your weekend getaways or your week-long staycation, consider taking a day or two to explore the incredible network of people and places that lie behind the amazing food that Nova Scotia produces. Plan a trip to a cheese house and experience the patience and craft

that is required to produce a fine cheese. Take a tour of your favorite vegetable farm and gain a greater appreciation for the amount of time and labour required to get those spray-free carrots to your farmers market. Visit a U-Pick farm and spend some time getting to know the folks that have nurtured that soil before going home and making some of Grandmas jam together. Knowing the people and places behind our food will open the door for us to enjoy the extensive pleasures of Nova Scotias cuisine, a pleasure that can elevate the enjoyment of a mere gourmet to something much deeper.

9028176007JULESCHAMBERLAIN.CA

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E m i l y F o r r e s t

Traveling Close to Home f localtastingtours l LocalTasteTrs

I love to travel. This spring I had a chance to visit Germany with my family, and it was an amazing trip, bursting with music, architecture and incredible dining experiences. Swiss roesti, seared pigeon breast, late-night currywurst: I was in heaven. I actually trace my ancestry back to early east coast German settlers (like many Maritimers), and it was neat making the connection between culinary traditions I grew up with (e.g., sour cream and cucumbers over potatoes) and German dishes I spotted on menus in the regions where they were first dreamed up.

Travelling is always a great adventure. I think were particularly lucky here in Halifax because its fairly easy to get your wayfaring fix without having to venture far from home.

For instance, a quick way to step into a completely different landscape is to call up Laila North at Go North Tours and have her take you on a trip into lush Nova Scotia wine country. Sipping wine, tasting local food, drinking in the scenery and the historywhat better way to spend a summer afternoon? The added bonus is having someone else take care of the drivingand, of course, getting all the great inside local stories and buzz (rumour has it that if you happen to catch Pete Luckett onsite at Luckett Vineyards when youre with Laila, youll get a raunchy rendition of the Eric Clapton song shes named for, sung by the owner himself!). Sometimes, for another quick change of scenery and a good, long, out-of-city breath, Ill get Laila to speed me down to Peggys Cove and back for a morning

look at those crazy moonscape vistas and the volatile surf, which leave me breathless every time.

In Halifax, you can take a trip to another country while staying at home if you take in the incredible cultural festivals here every season. Greek, Lebanese, African, Italian, the Multicultural Festivaltheyre a priceless chance to experience the food, music, dance, language and traditions of the myriad cultures which make up Halifax in 2014. I love talking with guests on our food tours about the sheer number of cuisines here in the city and how important each culture is to the Halifax food scene as a whole. Checking out the festival food stands is like a tasting tour in itself. One of my very favourite things to do is stand and watch the ladies cooking the manaouch outside the tents at the Lebanese festivals. Even the way they call the orders out to one another and work the line is like a dance: one sprinkling cheese, another, spices, another tossing the soft rounds of dough back and forth between her fingers, another rolling up the browned and crisped finished product at lightning

speed; its a beautiful thing to behold. Just thinking of it now brings back the heady smell of olive oil and thyme.

I also had a chance to travel back in time a little bit during Doors Open Halifax this year. Looking down on the waterfront from the Dominion Building atrium, getting a mini organ recital at St. Pauls church and examining the stained glass at City Hall were all firsts for me. A major highlight was a visit to the Africville Museum. The photos, history and even recorded voices of Africville residents in the exhibit were very moving, but most memorable was a spoken word performance by a young poet named El Jones. She brought her audience squarely back into the here and now with her words and her honest, clear vision of Halifax as she sees it today. Thats a trip I wont forget for a while.

I guess Ive learned that theres more than one way to travel and have new adventures when you live in Halifax. And its always nice to know youre never too far away from everything you love about home.

9028176007JULESCHAMBERLAIN.CA

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R o d n e y H a b i b

Real Food for Real Petsf PlanetPawsPetEssentials l PlanetPawsNS


I f you find yourself talking to other pet owners, whether at work, at a park or even online, one question usually comes up at some point: What do you feed your pet? In those same discussions you will hear at least one pet owner rave passionately about feeding their pet raw foods.

Raw foods? you may ask. Like cutting up a dead cow and bagging it? Yes, as gross as that sounds, I get that question all the time.

Raw foods are live foods. No, its not live as in moving and breathing. It is live with the healthy enzymes and bio-available nutrients that remain intact and are not destroyed by the cooking or rendering that canned or kibbled pet foods go through.

Raw pet foods are live or living fresh foods that have been uncooked. Theyre well researched by pet owners and made at home or purchased from retailers balanced and or bacteria-free for beginners.

Today's studies show that cooking not only destroys nutrients and enzymes, but also chemically changes these foods

into acid-forming toxins, free-radicals and poisons that can provoke long-term damage to our pets bodies.

According to Packaged Facts, the leading publisher of market research in the food division, the raw pet food market is growing so fast that it will double the growth of the natural pet food division (i.e. kibble, canned and dehydrated) in the next five years. Why is this happening? Because raw food manufacturers are raising the bar on nutrition!

One of the main reasons most pet owners are making the switch (aside from health problems) is to take control of their pets diet. They want to be able to control each ingredient that goes into their pets body.

Now keep in mind this is a very short description as I have a word count restriction I have to meet!

Speaking of word count restrictions, my pal and editor-in-chief of this magazine, Alexander Henden, recently joined the raw pet food movement by switching his pets diet from processed foods to fresh foods.

Alexs pride and joy is fur baby Makita

the dog! Anyone who knows Alex knows that his dog is his BFF. You can find Makita with him on all of his travels!

Not too long ago, Makita began experiencing problems that didnt seem right to Alex. His dog didnt have that bounce in his step and began soiling in the house. After several visits to the doctor, Alex came by to chat with me, and we talked about changing Makitas diet by stepping it up nutritionally.

Within weeks, the dog, who might have been written off as old, turned back into his young self again. He became full of life, and there was no more soiling around the household!

You see, there is a reason why raw feeders are the most passionate pet owners on the planet. It is because they see firsthand the transformation in their pets when coming off of processed foods.

Talk to people who cut out processed foods from their diets and who started eating locally-sourced fresh foods, and they will tell you how much better they feel.

Thinking about changing your pets diet? Remember that if you want to make the switch, team up with a supporting veterinarian and raw food expert who can help you do it right. Throwing a raw piece of liver in a pets bowl is not classified as feeding raw. The most critical part of feeding raw correctly is balanced feeding! You can make a great thing go bad fast if you do it wrong.

In closing, you wonderful pet parents, you can never go wrong in life with exercising balance, variation and moderation!

Q&A

How long have you been with Farmers' Markets of NS?I started at FMNS in the fall of 2011. I was hired to fill in for the Executive Director at the time during her six month maternity leave. One thing led to another .

What are some of the biggest things you've noticed during your time as Executive Director?Growing up in Cape Breton, I have always had a strong sense of place. Having had the opportunity to explore many of Nova Scotias farmers markets, I now know that Cape Breton isn't exclusive in being a proud and unique region of our province. Nova Scotia is a province of communities and my favourite way to get to know a community is to explore its farmers market.

Where has all the new growth come from? Are we seeing a lot of young adults connecting with food?Nova Scotian communities are hungry for greater access to locally grown food, for a meeting place and for community-based commerce. We want to feel connected connected to our food and to our neighbours. I think this is the driving force at the moment. As farmers markets grow and emerge, farmers, producers and other entrepreneurs continue to step up to the plate, the momentum will continue to build.

Keltie Butler - Farmers' Markets of NSAs a recent impact study has highlighted, farmers' markets are important for our small rural communities, their economies, and for the revitalization of our agricultural sector, but for the average person, they're a way of reconnecting to the food we eat, and to have access to some of the freshest, most delicious food available.

by Alexander Henden

Community BUILDERS

In relation to how farmers' markets act as incubators for entrepreneurs, what are some of the most noteworthy success stories that come to mind? It is the spectrum that simply knocks my sock off the spectrum of individuals, businesses, products and stories within our farmers markets. Being from Cape Breton, I am sure to make the pilgrimage home a few times a year and on route I have a number of favourite spots including the Antigonish Farmers Market. I cannot resist stopping in for handmade chocolate truffles made by Carly Mayhew-Gallant, a 15 year old local high school student. If you are from the Yarmouth area, or if you do your shopping at Pete's from time to time, you likely know Chef Gary Kent or, should I say, you likely know his product line, Vincent Dressings. Two years ago, Gary began selling his dressings at the Yarmouth Farmers Market. They were, of course, a big hit and he was encouraged by his fans (aka customers) to expand to sell across the province. Vincent Dressings are now available at stores across Nova Scotia as well as the Yarmouth Farmers Market. While starting a business is never easy, launching a business at a farmers market drastically cuts down on overhead costs and needs while guaranteeing a captive audience.


Great Music, Warm Hospitality

L CeciliaConcerts f ceciliaconcerts

6199 Chebucto, Halifax, NS B3L 1K7(902) 423-0143 ceciliaconcerts.ca

Sunday, 21 Sept 20142:00pm at Lillian Piercy Concert Hall

Suzanne Lemieux (oboe) and Carl Philippe Gionet (piano)Our Musician in Residence opens our season with a program of her favorite sonatas and arias for the oboe.

Sunday, 5 Oct 20142:00pm at Lillian Piercy Concert Hall

Andrew Pickett (counter-tenor) and Simon Docking (piano)Noted Halifax counter-tenor Andrew Pickett presents music for the high male voice from the Middle Ages to the 21st Century.

Sunday, 2 Nov 20142:00pm at Lillian Piercy Concert Hall

Fandango Guitar QuartetJeunesses Musicales presents this young and dynamic guitar quartet whose repertoire runs from Vivaldi to Paul Simon.

Saturday, 29 Nov 20143:00pm at Lillian Piercy Concert Hall

Donizettis Opera Don PasqualeThe Jeunesses Musicales touring production of the popular 19th century comic opera.

Sunday, 14 Dec 20143:00pm at Bethany United

Seton Choirs Setons GreetingsOne of Halifaxs most popular choirs joins Cecilia Concerts to present music of the Christmas season.

2014 - 2015 TICKET PRICESRegular : $25Senior : $20Student : $10

What are your 5 favourite things to eat from across all the farmers' markets? Wow, talk about a hard question! Okay well be warned that you will be hungry after reading this... There are so many fantastic bakers based at farmers markets Hilltop Cottage Farm scones at the Yarmouth Farmers Market, bread from Juliens Bakery at the Hubbards Market (and many others), the gluten-free brownie from Slow Dough at the Wolfville Farmers Market. Okay, so thats one. Fresh veggies tended with care from the fantastic farmers selling at markets across the province. (Local carrots, apples and eggs are three things I will never compromise on the taste will convince you I promise!) I like to treat myself to locally grown cut flowers as well from spots like the Humble Burdock Farm at the Historic Farmers Market (Keiths Brewery Building, Halifax). I love unique jams and jellies things are beyond my kitchen skills such as Ma Bells Country Condiments at the Lunenburg Farmers Market and Farm Girl Preserves at the Kentville Farmers Market. Last but not least, Roselane Farms (Halifax Seaport Farmers Market) double smoked bacon first recommended to me by Editor-in-Chief Alexander Henden in fact.

Check out page 46 for a full map of Certified Farmers' Markets.

Community BUILDERS


When the passenger train stopped running through Tatamagouche in 1970, the lovely old

station started to decay and was set to be demolished. James LeFresne, who spent his childhood playing in the boxcars and all around the station, couldnt bear the thought of it being destroyed. So, at the tender age of 18, he bought the place for $500. It was a decade before he could start working on it, and in the years before he was able to open it as an inn, he started the Tatamagouche Farmers Market on the property. Finally, in 1989, he started welcoming guests. Since then, LeFresne has been involved in numerous

projects that have helped Tatamagouche become a viable tourist destination, and hes gained a reputation as the man to go to if you want something done in the town. Not that hed ever admit it.

I guess Ive always had a vision for the place, and Im passionate about it, but there are more people here than just me, he says. I might be the one that is in the news, but there are other people that have such a passion and work the ropes behind the scenes to make things happen. He does concede, however, that there always needs to be someone in the forefront, and he does enjoy that. If youve ever been to the Train Station Inn and seen LeFresne

there in full station master garb, youll know that he is a bit of a showman who obviously gets a kick out of letting the entertainer inside shine through. There are people that do a far better job than Ive been doing, he says. Theyre just not comfortable having their picture taken.

In his time as a mover and a shaker, LeFresne has worn many hats besides the stationmaster one (which suits him very well, by the way). He has been president of the Chamber of Commerce, produced the local tourist guide and represented the area at tourism trade shows in the US, consulted on the Creamery Square development, and

James LeFresne

Artic

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Augu

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SmithCommunity BUILDERS

Charismatic inn-keeper who's been pushing Tatamagouches tourism industry forward for the past four decades.


been a municipal councilor. You could say that he loves a challenge and is always looking to help others in the area succeed the way that he has.

His work has really helped raise the profile of Tatamagouche as a tourism destination in many ways. LeFresne says that Tatamagouche was historically a tourism hotspot, with lots of cottages, several guest houses and campgrounds, but when the Trans-Canada Highway opened in 1958, the area suffered greatly. The Balmoral Motel opened in 1967, which was the start of another era, and a new wave of visitors came, and all of a sudden there was a need for accommodations, he says. He opened a bed and breakfast in his home, found out that he loved acting as host, and went on to renovate the station. This naturally led to him wanting to get the town more exposure.

In 2008, LeFresne was approached by a production company about the possibility of using Tatamagouche for the show The Week the Women Left. I became the liaison between the community and the TV company, he says. And although some people thought it would be a terrible thing and could not see any benefit at all to us going down that road, in reality it was exactly what our community needed, and I just knew the economic impact that it would have. The show had an immediate impact and led to the rather lovely Patterson Wharf being built during filming, but its had long-lasting effects on tourism and the profile of the area

as well. Its okay to laugh at yourself a little bit, and the show portrayed the area very positively, he says.

This year, LeFresne celebrates the 25th anniversary of having guests stay at his beloved Train Station Inn, but he shows no signs of slowing down his efforts to keep raising Tatamagouches profile.

He is excited at the possibility of a road-train (a motorized buggy that looks like a train with carriages) coming to town that would take people from one tourist destination to the other. Tatamagouche really is ideal for that, he says. People would come here just

to ride the train, and when they do that, theyll buy ice creams and pop and spend money in the area. It could also be wonderful for senior citizens in the area; they can get on it and do their shoppingit could double as a local transportation system, which we dont have right now. Not everyone in town is onboard (no pun intended). A lot of people cant get their head around that, but with the right planning, it could work great.

LeFresne has been right so many times, you cant help thinking hes right on this one, too.

Community BUILDERS


Its no secret that small towns across Nova Scotia are struggling to attract more people and pay the bills these days. But if you

head to where the Minas Basin meets the Cornwallis River, youll find one town thats actually growingand in a big way. From 2006 to 2013, Wolfville had a 14% increase in population, and according to David Hovell, the executive director of the Wolfville Business Development Commission (WBDC), for every business that leaves the towns main streets right now, there are two waiting to take its place.

The reasons for Wolfvilles boom are manyAcadia University and a rich food and wine industry to name just twobut one reason that doesnt usually get mentioned is Hovell himself. After having a lengthy conversation with him recently, its clear hed never actually credit himself directly with

any of the towns success, yet what is clear after talking to him and seeing his work is that he and his team know how to get the word out about Wolfville.

We like to be loud and proud in everything we do, says Hovell, who became the WBDCs first executive director in 2011, and I dont mean to be boastful when I say that, but Wolfville has a lot of wonderful things going for it. Were proud of what weve accomplished and we want to share our story.

As a lifelong resident of Port Williams with ties to the local agricultural sector (he established a John Deere dealership that now has 12 locations across the Maritimes), government (he served as director of the government caucus under premiers Hamm and MacDonald) and the Wolfville community (hes been actively involved with 4-H and many other community

groups), Hovell knows that story well. And in terms of why Wolfville

continues to grow, that story has a lot to do with lifestyle, he says. The amenities and services available here to those who are retiring or raising a young family are top notch. We have a community where education is a big part of everything we do, which is strongly influenced by Acadia, but we have a very engaged elementary and middle school community with active volunteers, too. And from now until September, theres not a night a week without some cultural activity.

And, of course, theres the wine industry. With seven wineries surrounding the town, Wolfville has become a hotbed for wine lovers around the world and a prime location for entrepreneurs looking to tap into the spin-off market. One big way the WBDC is trying to keep the wine

David Hovell

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Wolfville is bucking the population drain trend better than any other small community in Nova Scotia. The executive director of the Wolfville Business Development Commission tells us how theyre doing it.

WOLFVILLEMILESTONES

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flowing in the area is through its famous Wolfville Magic Winery Bus tours, a joint venture with the Town of Wolfville that takes visitors on tours of three or four nearby wineries in a pink double-decker bus. Last year, 3,900 people hopped onboard, and 20% of them stayed overnight. Hovell estimates that their economic impact is about a half million dollars per year.

As for the future, Hovell and the WBDC remain focussed on creating these types of connections between the business community, visitors and those looking to keep the population rising in Wolfville. Moving forward, thats one of the most valuable things the WBDC can bea connector, says Hovell. Were connecting people and ideas, were connecting entrepreneurs with opportunity. Weve had some success recently and now we want to keep that going.

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2011 2014 Wolfville experiences, year over year growth, in the number of new businesses opening in Wolfville

2014 Canadian Tourism Commission recognizes the Wolfville Magic Winery Bus as one of the top 10 Nova Scotia experiences

2013 WBDC develops new strategic plan to lead it to 2016

2012 WBDC launches the inaugural season of the Wolfville Magic Winery Bus

2012 BDC and Town of Wolfville declare Wolfville as the premier culinary and wine destination in Atlantic Canada

2012 WBDC partners with Town of Wolfville to research, create and launch a new brand for Wolfville

2011 WBDC hires its first full time Executive Director

2009 WBDC partners with Town, ACOA and Main Street property owners with Merchant Faade Improvement Program

1982 WBDC Incorporated to serve the business interests of Wolfville


Cover STORY

Donna & Carl SparkesFrom grapes to world domination - pushing Nova Scotia wines higher

Nova Scotia wineries produce incredibly good wines. You may not know this the first time you order a glass when sitting on a sun-soaked patio downtown or when you pick up a bottle on a

whim at the NSLC, but from those first few sips you realize that we are, happily, producing world-class wines right here in our home province. Jost Vineyards is our fine provinces largest and oldest wine producer, and owners Donna and Carl Sparkes believe that our amazing wines deserve more room on the world stage. And they are working hard to make that happen.

You can already buy Nova Scotian wines in other provinces, and theres a trickle that goes abroad, but that isnt enough. Theres great wine across Canada, and the government needs to do more to ensure that Canada is recognized as a wine country and bring that into our brand, says Carl. Theres a lot of progress to be made. We have a product that is on par with that produced in other new world wine countries such as New Zealand, and really we should be capitalizing on that. We always hear about how Nova Scotia needs to attract more tech or other industries, but there is so much potential here already in the export of our existing natural resources, such as wine.

What makes Nova Scotian wine different than wines across the rest of Canada are the common traits shared between products here. The beauty of the industry where we are is that we have a very clear style as driven by our climate and capabilities, says Carl, whereas in places like Ontario there is no actual Ontario style of wine; they try to emulate Californian wines and other styles that dont always work that well. In terms of improving and creating a style, were closer to that here than in any other place in Canada.

The Tidal Bay Appellation is an initiative launched in June 2012 that encourages growers and winemakers to create a signature product with unique characteristics that make it stand out as a recognizable Nova Scotian white wine. Ten wineries across the province joined in to follow specific rules (Nova Scotian grapes only, specific varieties, blind taste testing) and create crisp whites that all carry the Tidal Bay name on the bottle. It is this kind of organized effort that will help push Nova Scotian wines higher and something the Sparkes are proud supporters of. Carl is the only Nova Scotian vineyard owner to sit on the board of the Canadian Vintners Association, and he says this is another way he is beating the drum for the industry here.


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Newbies taking control Surprisingly, Carl and Donna Sparkes are new to all of this.

They set up Devonian Coast Wineries in 2011 and set out to acquire a portfolio of wineries in Nova Scotia. Their first purchase was Jost in 2012, which they bought from Hans Christian Jost, who set up the winery with his father more than 30 years ago. Jost came packaged with boutique winery Gaspereau, and they bought Muir Murray Estate Winery last September (it has since been renamed Mercator). The Sparkes desire to become vineyard owners comes from a deep passion for wine, and this just happened to mesh brilliantly with the kind of challenge that Carl was looking for in a business.

In 1989 we toured France and visited many wineries, and we fell in love with the culture of the wineries and the vineyards, says Donna. When we left, Carl said, Were going to own a winery someday, and I loved the idea. Carl was in the food industry for many years, running divisions of Canada Bread, Olivieri pasta and most recently Bento Sushi. This meant they spent years living in Ontario, but their roots have always been in the Maritimes. Both Carl and Donna are from Newfoundland, and theyve lived partly in Nova Scotia for 28 years (they have a house in St. Margarets Bay), but they were looking to be here permanently. Carl started looking at businesses to buy and found this, and we love it, says Donna. She admits to loving the romance of the industry, but says it isnt all as advertised in movies like Under the Tuscan Sun and A Good Year. Its a lot of work, she says. We hit the ground running and we havent stopped.

Jost was already a very successful operation when the Sparkes bought it. That was certainly part of the allure, says Donna. We didnt just want a boutique winery, we wanted a successful business. We just knew that with Carls years of experience in business, we could take it to another level. The winery is a major employer in the area, with up to 75 staff depending on the time of year, and more than 40 different wines are produced (many of which have won multiple awards).

Carl says that they are benefitting greatly from the groundwork done by the wine innovators in the province, which includes the former owners of Jost. Were really fortunate to be coming into an industry that already has some momentum, says Carl. I could not have done what those people have done, but I can take it from this point.

The Nova Scotia wine industry appealed to Carl for a number of reasons. In terms of being a food and consumer goods marketer, the wine industry here is the pinnacle for me, he says. Ive never come across an opportunity that has so many dimensions and so many intrinsic rewards associated with it. To be able to take something like this is as good as it gets. To be creating this beautiful wine that is an emotional product with mass appeal, I cant imagine any business venture in the world that comes close to this.

Others in the industry, including those who were already working at Jost, are also a strong motivator for Carl. Ive worked with so many businesses where the hard part is finding a spark to reignite interest, but in this business there are no jaded people. The people that work here are as equally excited about the product as we owners are. Thats extremely rare in the business world, so I get inspiration from them. The fact that they are so engaged and proud about what they are doing puts the challenge back on you not to disappoint them. Thats a very symbiotic relationship, and one you dont naturally find everywhere.

Stepping it upThe Sparkes first step as new owners was to bring in

talent from outside the province in order to breathe new life into their winemaking processes. The learning curve had flattened out here in this region when it came to viticulture and winemaking, explains Carl, so in the first few months of buying Jost we brought in a Swiss winemaker, and he had fresh and more advanced winemaking techniques. He was here for a couple of vintages and really helped take our practices up a notch in the vineyard and the cellar.

Their very popular new wine, Selkie, a crisp frizzante, was developed as a result of bringing in that winemaker. He was going through the vineyards saying, You know these grapes are so delicious, I could see them going in something else, says Donna. Up until that point wed been blending them in with our regular brands. We said sure, and it turned out fantastic. Launching the Selkie at The Carleton this year was a thrill, and the event was made extra special when the couples good friend Bruce Guthrow offered to sing a couple of songs; it turned out hed written a song, Selkie Girl, to celebrate the occasion. The Selkie gets its name from Celtic mythology, where the selkie is a seal that comes onto land, sheds its skin and becomes a dark-haired seductress; or she can also get stuck in a fishermans net and become his slave. The names fits, explains Donna. We love it so much because of the transformation from our poor little grapes that nobody realized what they could be, just like the seal turning into a seductress.

Though good work was done in those first two years, the Sparkes realized that in order to push the profile of the wines in all three vineyards higher, they were going to need to bring in the big guns. Thats where newly arrived and very charming English import Jonathan Rodwell comes in. Rodwell studied at UC Davis in California and worked with Robert Mondavi, who was instrumental in bringing worldwide recognition to Napa as a wine region. He has been in Tuscany for 17 years and consulted with the Russian and Croatian governments on how to improve their wine industries. He has a rare talent, and we are very lucky to have him here, says Carl. He is a great mentor, and people just respond to him so well. He brings the perfect balance of great management skills with that wealth of experience and


great talent in viticulture and winemaking. Plus, Jonathan is here because he sees the potential in Nova Scotian wine.

Donna and Carls plan to take Jost to another level isnt just about the wine that they ship out of the vineyard, but also about operations on the premises. They are just finishing major renovations that have resulted in a huge and beautiful newly-designed tasting room and wine store, complete with gorgeous patio where you can sit looking out over the vines with a glass of wine and selection of locally sourced meats and cheeses from their brand new deli. Theres also a classy private dining and tasting room on the second level with a full kitchen. The craftsman who oversaw renovations incorporated wood from a couple of 100-year-old barrels that had been sitting in pieces in a barn on premises, and the effect is just gorgeous. At some point, Donna wants to add walking trails and picnic areas, further adding to the joyful experience when people take the time to drive out and visit the winery.

Renovations are also underway at Gaspereau, which got a liquor license last year so that visitors can enjoy a glass of wine with a charcuterie board on the patio there, too. At Mercator, they are letting the winery rest for now, working on getting the vines into the best state possible (because, of course, everything starts with the grapes).

Brighter futuresMoving forward, Donna and Carl are going to keep pushing

Nova Scotian wines in front of every nose that they can. In the past year theyve poured at Parliament Hill in Ottawa, and were the first ever Canadians to have a booth at the Prowein, the International Trade Fair for Wines and Spirits, in Germany. People were coming by and looking at us and saying, You have wine in Canada? Let alone wine in Nova Scotia, says Donna. After attending, there are now importers working to bring the wines into Germany and the UK.

This November theyll be heading to Prowein in China, and are looking forward to expanding their reach into the Asian market. Though funnily enough, you likely have more luck securing a bottle of their wine in China than you would in say Manitoba. This is because a Chinese couple who studied at St Marys fell in love with Jost wine and started a business shipping the wine to their home country. Weve even started creating a few custom blends for them, and last year they opened the 9000 square feet Jost Clubhouse, that only serves Jost wine, in Suzhou. Were going to stop there before going to the expo, says Donna.

The growth at Jost continues, and the only impediment that they have to moving more of their wine is that the supply of grapes cannot keep up with demand. We have 70 acres, and we havent got enough grapes. We also have 70 acres in Gaspereau, and growers all across the province. Theres no limits to what we could use, says Donna. Were planting more vines every year and recruiting growers across the province. We have a long way to go, but theres so much potential. The conditions here are perfect for growing grapes, and for creating a world-class wine industry.


Cover STORY


Food + DRINK

Im going to describe a feeling I get every time I drive to the valley. I am sure anyone who travels this route will understand what I am talking about, and theres probably even a precious few who have only seen it

once or twice and still experience this. Youre driving along Highway 101, aptly named the Harvest Highway, and just before Exit 9, you pass under the West Brooklyn Road overpass and all is revealed in one moment before you the view. Behold the Gaspereau Valley, Annapolis Valley, Wolfville, the Minas Basin as it meets the Bay of Fundy and Cape Blomidon in the far distance. I draw in my breath every single time, but its more than that. I actually had to look it up; its what is referred to as a stuttering inhalation, when your breath is dropped and recovered in repeated excitement, kind of like that big gasp you take after sobbing.

So, why not take that very view, immortalize it and frame it in floor-to-ceiling angled glass? Then step back from those windows and build a long granite wine tasting bar where you can lean, sip and continue to sigh over that view?

Everyone who looks out those slanted glass windows thinks theyre in an exotic part of the world, like Tuscany, says Pete Luckett, but theyre actually right here in Nova Scotia. It is a spectacular view; I would dare say one of the

best in our province. Pete Luckett is an iconic character. He makes stuff happen.

Everyone has an opinion, Im sure, but you cant deny how he changed the face of grocery retail and, more specifically, how we look at fresh produce at Petes Frootique. Pushing the boundaries all those years ago, he was instrumental in changing shopping legislation for Nova Scotia. Not afraid of hard work and always throwing himself into every aspect of his businesses, he was stocking the shelves in the beginning, and Ill be damned if he still isnt stocking the shelves every single time I see him, only this time its bottles of wine in the new tasting room and shop at Luckett Vineyards.

Theres a tide of change around here, rolling in like the Bay of Fundy. A significantly renovated space and a strong core team, which Pete says is made up of his business family and family family, have him surrounded in this special new place. New offices, new bathrooms, new kitchen, new chef, new tasting and retail space, and an amped up Crush Pad Bistro with the cutest peaked tents. Not to mention, a very happy winemaker with three shiny new floor-to-ceiling tank additionsLarry, Curly and Moe.

Theres two things about having family involved in the business, Pete says. Number one is a great level of trust

Luckett VineyardsFabulous wine, food, and view of the Annapolis Valley

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and comfort. And number two, customers love dealing with family. Its an image second to none.

Pete goes on to fill in a bit of the family picture, explaining how people love booking events knowing they are talking to his daughter Geena Luckett. When his other daughter Sophia works the tasting bar, she has, as he puts it, more BS than dad. Everyone references his wife Sue as the backbone, keeping everyone on the straight and narrow, deftly navigating the fine line between business, family and home. An avid gardener and cook in her own right, she wields her influence for good mostly in the private dining events realm. At the height of summer season, other family members join in the fun; his sister Barb drops in for an extended stay, and Pete quips that she brings good looks and maturity to the whole equation. He also marvels at her ability to assess and engage a customer in less than 30 seconds. I suspect this is a Luckett family trait across the board; Ive certainly witnessed as much. This goes for the core team as wellOffice Manager Kim Hatcher, whos been busting my balls for years over the internet, along with Restaurant Manager Nicole Greene, Vineyard Manager Marcel Kolb and one of the more recent additions to the winery staff, Events Manager Geena Luckett.

Dont get the wrong idea here; Geena is by no means new to the family business. Shes been around it since she was legal, working every aspect of her fathers businesses through high school and university with her heart set squarely on the winery. When she was completing her Bachelor of Management at Dalhousie University, she was quite taken with a course called Managing the Family Enterprise and particular advice that rang true for her: go work somewhere else before going home. She did just that, managing a shop after graduation, and the moment the position became available she jumped right in. With a passion and enthusiasm for the industry, shes in the right place. Its clear shes ready to put her own mark on the wine experiences on offer.

Luckett Vineyards is entering its fourth official season under the direction of Executive Winemaker Mike Mainguy, who spent his formative years in the Niagara region before making Nova Scotia his home. There is a unique terroir here on this fertile hillside facing the ocean with all of that valley sunshine. There are over 20 wines on offer this year, from the classicsLAcadie and their best vintage of Tidal Bay yetto the limited edition Buried Red and the newer full-bodied Black Cab to ice wines and ciders to ports. Theyve upped their game in terms of quantities, have hit their stride with small lots and reserves, and can offer limited premium tastings.

And how about the food, you ask? Enter valley born-and-raised Chef Richard Harmes. He recently took up the reins in the kitchen in mid-April, just in time for the season. Working his way through kitchens in Halifax, the south shore and all over the valley (Old Orchard Inn, Kings Arms) since he was about 16, his last job had him cooking at a 1200-man camp in northern Alberta. Its been years since he worked in the area, but with his third kid on the way and itching to get back home, the job at Lucketts was simply too good to pass up. Hes been



Food + DRINK

flexing his wings in the new kitchen digs, and with an arsenal of incredible ingredients at his fingertips through Petes resources, he has shuffled up lunches and has just introduced their first dinner menu.

Its gourmet dining in a bistro, patio setting, says Pete. The scene has changed dramatically here since Richard was last in it, but hes adapting well to our unique environment at the winery. The only other winery with a restaurant in the region is Le Caveau at Grand Pr Winery, headed up by Chef Jason Lynch. Ironically, he and Richard have worked on a number of restaurant projects together over the years, and Jason tipped him off about the job opening.

Working closely with the kitchen crew and collaborating with Pete and Sue, lunch is now offered from 11 am to 4 pm 7 days a week out in the open air on the Crush Pad Bistro from May to October. And as of this month, dinner will be served on Friday and Saturdays until 8 pm. For special occasions, they have the private Barrel Cellar for 12 to just over 20 people available with personalized 3-, 5- or 7-course tasting menus paired with their wines.

The bistro has already established itself as a much sought-

after summer lunch spot serving up cheese, charcuterie boards, and a selection of salads and sandwiches, including the staffs standing favourite, The Churchill with Atlantic beef and That Dutchmans Dragons Breath dijonaise (though apparently theres a contender on the new menu: a blackened chicken panini with brie and aioli). Expect to see even more seafood worked into the menu in the future as Chef Richards favourite thing to experiment with is fresh fish, especially halibut. I will certainly vouch for The Churchill, and I managed to try a few other delicious items, including their kale and quinoa salad, a lobster cake with roasted artichoke aioli and onion relish, and a bite of one of their seasonal tarts. And surprisingly this may be the only Nova Scotia winery where you can order a local beer, too. What?!

Hot tip: when youre standing in the tasting room, youll notice bowls of distinctive green Bravo Spanish olives, or chupadedos. Do yourself a serious favour and try one. I promise youll become absolutely addicted to them. They are available in town at Petes locations, but whats an olive without a view? Still a very good olive. Just make the trip already.

Geena says that with the renovations done and everyone


Our certified organic ROS is dry, refreshing, with bright berry and tropical fruit flavours, hints of cherry, cranberry and raspberry with a creamy finish.

We like to shop local and when local is certified organic, even better. We know what we will be drinking this summer.Jimmy and Mia Rankin

Available at select NSLC stores, Bishops Cellar and at our winery in the Gaspereau Valley.

visit us at: lacadiewine & lacadievineyards

310 Slayter Road, Gaspereau, NS(902) 542-8463

www.lacadievineyards.ca

1600 BARRINGTON ST. | 902.405.4505 | obladee.ca | @ObladeeWineBar

settling into the new space, their focus is now shifting to special events and rentals. Theres no shortage of things to look forward to in the next few months: Petes Paella Party, Tidal Bay Seafood Festival, Sausage Fest, Swing Under the Stars, Cheese Fest and their Harvest Corn Boil & BBQ.

Honey, your grapes are calling. You just cant be in this place and not reference the classic British red phone box situated in the vineyard facing the winery; its like a little welcoming beacon. Here in Nova Scotia, weve seen this image splashed across tourism campaigns, and rightly so; the thing just begs for a picture. What makes this even cooler is that you can call anywhere in North America for free. There are some regulars, staff included, who you can see trail down on breaks or on their way home. People have even been spotted early in the morning in the dead of winter making calls. Theres something sweet about removing yourself from the reliance of your own phoneand social media in generaland just chatting old school with that view.

Luckett Vineyards is officially a destination, and the destination is calling you.


Wine & TRAVEL

I am ashamed to say that it has taken me almost three seasons to get on the busa Grape Escapes Wine Tour bus, that is. It hasnt been for a lack of trying. I always envisioned doing it with a pack of old girlfriends, but

because of scheduling and distance issues, it just hasnt come to pass yet. On the flip side, Ive had the great pleasure to work with Grape Escapes owner Susan Downey through my event, Devour! The Food Film Fest, when we hired her to facilitate our tasting tours. But again, when youre organizing an event, youre certainly not attending your own tours; youre the one driving to beat the bus, dropping off whatever the next location has run out of. True story.

On this particular Friday afternoon, its a mixed group for a five-hour Afternoon Escape with Cheese tour. I joined in on a party of two from Edmonton, which included the tenth strongest man in western Canada (and yes, we dared him to pick up stuff along the way). He and his wife were just finishing off a well-rounded beverage tour of Nova Scotia, hitting up spirits first, followed by craft beers and finishing with this very wine excursion to the valley. There was also a party of eight from Lower Sackville, a family celebrating the return of their freshly married son and his bride from Calgary. After an afternoon of watching them interact, I must say that a family who drinks wine together stays together.

Theres something kind of wonderful about the ebb and flow of a tour like this, from the quiet start to the boisterous finish. The only thing I can liken it to is an airplane ride, where you start out with simple courtesies and a bit of casual conversation with the person in the seat beside you and end the flight with conversations erupting loudly all around you.

Susan prefaces the tour: I like drinking wine, but I wont be drinking any today as your guide. Laughter abounds. As we

drive down the Harvest Highway, she brings us up to speed on the relatively short history of winemaking in Nova Scotia. From the failed start with the first French settlers in the 1600s who battled our tough, new-to-them climate with their European varietals to the first relative success in the eighties at the hands of the purported father of Nova Scotia wine, Roger Dial, the original vintner and owner of Grand Pr Winery. Ultimately, his experimentation led to our first signature grape, LAcadie Blanc. Today we have 17 wineries (depending on who you ask), with 650 acres of grapes, 40 to 50 grape growers and our first official appellation, Tidal Bay. We excel at whites and sparkling. Susan promises that by the end of the tour, each of us will find at least one wine that appeals to us. And that we did, as our crowd filled the back of the bus with cases.

We hit up three wineries: LAcadie Vineyards (the first certified organic winery in Nova Scotia and the award-winning producers of traditional method sparkling wine), Gaspereau Vineyards (sister winery to Jost Vineyards and the 16th best winery in Canada according to Wine Access magazine) and Luckett Vineyards (with a massive new renovation and the best view). Wineries on these tours are scheduled based on their availability and timing. This is a particularly good cross-section and showcase for whats happening in Nova Scotia. In each location, we are met by enthusiastic staff and guided through generous tastings, including our finish with the exuberant Pete Luckett himself, who took the piss out of every person on the tour within moments.

Gaspereau Vineyards turned into our longest tasting because we lingered outside in the sun over local cheese plates featuring fresh fruit (including the first blush of local strawberries) and cheeses from That Dutchmans Cheese Farm, Fox Hill Cheese House, the new Blue Harbour Cheese and a guest appearance

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Nova Scotia Wine ToursA great way to spend the day in the Annapolis Valley

Wine & TRAVEL

from PEIs Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar. Cheese is coming into its own here in Nova Scotia, much like our wines.

These tours are yet another Centre for Entrepreneurship Education and Development (CEED) success story; some of Nova Scotias most exciting food, wine and tourism businesses have received training, support and funding from their programs. It might surprise you whos on the listfrom Brooklyn Warehouse to some of your favourite food trucks.

Susan worked at Premiere Wine & Spirits through university, organizing tastings and developing a healthy excitement for what was happening in our own backyard. After a fair amount of travel, she would often find herself seeking out small-scale wine tours in other parts of the worldAustralia and New Zealand, and Niagara and Prince Edward County back in Canada. She started to see a gap, as these experiential tours appeared to be working everywhere else.

When Susan and her now-husband Mike started their seasonal business about three years ago, they stepped in at just the right time as they have been able to grow along with the industry. A teacher by trade with one foot still in the substitute teacher door in the off-season, Susan says this has become a large commitment complete with three part-time staff and their first full-time co-op student, Della, through the Nova Scotia Community Colleges tourism program.

In the first season, they struck a deal to put no money in, so at least it would only be a waste of time if it didnt all pan out. They operated a business without a storefront or a vehicle and a sole reliance on social media for marketing, not to mention continued support from CEED. They were pleasantly surprised to book 70 tours in year one, followed by a staggering 170 tours in year two. Theyve seen a shift in visitors as wellfrom all locals to a 50/50 ratio of locals and tourists in just two seasons.

At the start of year three, business continues to thrive. They recently purchased a 22-seat bus and have just launched a second initiative, Taste Halifax, which offers tours of the best of beer, food and wine destinations in and around Halifax.

Theyve also increased from operating five days a week to seven between May and November, offering up to four different daily curated tours, including cheese tastings and meals around

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1567 Grafton Street 425-0683scanwaycatering.com

the Annapolis Valley. Private tours are offered all year long to other parts of the province or are themed for bachelorettes, conferences or corporate team-building. You can build your own tour any time.

Nova Scotia isnt known worldwide for its wine just yet. Susan admits her favourite tours are about discovery and winning over any snob, especially one from Ontario. Shes down to earth, has strong pride in place and is clearly excited to show it to people. There is just something so awesome about Nova Scotia, she says.

If we already have a father of wine, she could very well take the title of Nova Scotias wine darling.

Heres to making it in Nova Scotia! Introducing Selkie, a Nova Scotian frizzante.

Named for the alluring creatures of maritime myth that transform from seals to human form, Selkie is a combination of eight Nova Scotia grapes, blended in a playful effervescent frizzante style inspired by our ocean breezes and unique Atlantic terroir.

To celebrate the launch of this innovative new white wine, were raising a glass to women who are making great things, like Selkie, happen right here.

www.SelkieWine.com

Tara MacDonald, Halifaxco-owner, two if

by sea caf

Heres to starting a caf that brought

new life to a city.

Selkie_Halifax_Local Connections_07_14_FINAL.indd 1 2014-07-04 11:46 AM

Wine & TRAVELWine & TRAVEL


The Wolfville Magic Winery BusA unique way to discover our local wineries

There are many different ways to enjoy the Wolfville. You can take your car or motorcycle up for a drive to the valley and, once there, visit all the great stops along the way. You could also book a wine tour with Grape Escapes or Go North Tours, but if you're looking for something a little more novel and a

little less curated, then perhaps the Wolfville Magic Winery Bus is your best bet.Launched back in 2012, the Wolfville Magic Winery Bus, which is rated "Top 10"

2014 experiences, according to the Canadian Tourism Commission, is a truly unique, outstanding way to experience four of our most cherished Nova Scotian wineries. It's also North America's only hop-on, hop-off wine tour aboard a traditional British double decker bus, and we think it's pretty cool.

This year's tour season began on July 18th, and will run every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, right through to October 19th. This season, the bus will make stops at Domaine de Grand Pr, Luckett Vineyards, L'Acadie Vineyards, and Gaspereau Vineyards, with each stop offering something a little different from the last one. The best part of this, is that while the Winery Bus is technically a tour, you're not married to having to get back on the bus at the same time as everyone else. The tour runs every hour, so if you'd like to stop and have a nice lunch at Le Caveau, or relax on the patio at Gaspereau Vineyards for a few hours, you can. You can also make your stops shorter and come back for a lovely sunset dinner too.

If you've taken the tour in previous years, you will notice a few things are different this year. First, the bus is no longer pink, it's red, which we think looks much better. The more important changes you will notice this year are the light food service (charcuterie boards) at Gaspereau Vineyards, and of course the big renovation work done at Luckett Vineyards. With this in mind, you may wish to plan for a longer outing.

There is of course an even better option, which we are happy to recommend. Our suggestion is to book a hotel for Friday night, stopping in for dinner at Front + Central or Privet House, and then wake up early to take in the Wolfville Farmers' Market, for locally roasted coffee or fresh baked goods. From there you would then begin your tour on the Magic Winery Bus, but not before strolling down Main Street to check out all of Wolfville's great little shops (the tours don't start until 10:30am anyways). Following your tour, however long you decide to make it, you could cap the evening off with a sunset dinner at Luckett Vineyards or the gorgeous patio at Le Caveau.

Regardless of how you choose to experience Wolfville, we think you will enjoy yourself. All you need to do is pick some dates on the calendar and go.

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Food + DRINK

Lia Rinaldo has a few secrets she wants to tell. But she cant. Not yet. Not even to me, and I work with her.

Rinaldo is keeping her cards close to her chest for this years Devour! The Food Film Festival. There are

people to confirm, films to view, logistics to be massaged and managed. But right now, Rinaldo is sitting in a cafe discussing what is going to be happening this November.

The Devour! team learned a lot in that first year: what works well, what can be tweaked, where to focus its attentions. But unlike some film festivals that tend to be a marathon experience in film and events, the inaugural year was more of a degustation menu spread out comfortably over five days. Thats not to say that Rinaldo, who used to be at the helm of the Atlantic Film Festival (AFF), didnt learn a few things. It was a big curve, she says It was interesting going back to doing festivals after AFF, going back to doing every single aspect of an event instead of having full departments of people. And yet, at the same time having a group of people and volunteers who rose up and met the challenge. It was a relief to show to everyone the idea that was in our heads and what it could be. I didnt imagine it would have the success it had behind it.

Gearing up for the second round of Devour! this year means tweaking a few things. Opening night is going to be amped up, says Rinaldo, who points out that this years opening event will hold 500 instead of last years 250, with a reception after the opening film. The workshops being held this year will bring in more talent and more speakers to discuss everything from DIY filmmaking to cooking classes and much more. There will still

be loads of dinners with invited chefs and guests, and culinary tours of the area. One of last years biggest hits, the food truck rally, will expand from its original Thursday night event to include Friday and Saturday offerings.

There will be other improvements to the event as well, especially when it comes to getting people from outside of Wolfville to the town for the events. We realize a lot of our audience are from Halifax, says Rinaldo, and so Devour! will be working with a company to provide access to and from Wolfville. This will include packages for daily and overnight visitors who

want to take in as much as they can of the festivities and screenings.

But for those who are hankering for food and film before the festival even begins, Devour! recently paired up with restaurants Lion & Bright in Halifax and Front & Central in Wolfville to provide screenings to help get people in the mood for the upcoming festivities. We wanted

to have events once a month and have a little fun, says Rinaldo.As for those secrets? Youll have to wait until the program is

released this September (date to be confirmed) to see what films will be playing, who will be cooking and who will be talking. Wouldnt want to spoil your appetite now would you?

Note from the author: My contributions to Local Connections have always been written objectively as a food writer and journalist. Recently, LCs editor-in-chief, Alex Henden, asked me to write about Devour, an organization that I work with, something I generally dont do. But he wanted to hear about the behind-the-scenes work at the festival, and so I agreed to write this article.

Behind the SCENES

Devour! The Film Food FestIt's time to start getting excited - Devour! is back for year two

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This Summer

Recharge with Art

Halifax | Yarmouth

Samuel Bolivar, Ocean Liner, c 1967, Oil on paper, 41.7 x 68.1 cm. Purchase, 1977

artgalleryofnovascotia.ca ArtGalleryNS @ArtGalleryNS 1723 Hollis St., Halifax | 341 Main St., Yarmouth

Destination LUNENBURG


DestinationLunenburgA NOVA SCOTIAN TREASURE IN EVERY SENSE of the word

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ithDestination LUNENBURG

Always popular with tourists, the gorgeous fishing town of Lunenburg has grown remarkably cooler in the past few years. So, if its been a couple of years since you visited, you really should get there

very soon and check it out. Youll find a range of interesting artsy stores full of things youll covet, superb restaurants, a craft distillery, and more, all set in what has to be one of the prettiest settings in the province (only the truly special places are deemed


worthy of UNESCO World Heritage Site status, after all).Just an hours drive from Halifax, Lunenburg is a destination

that offers the total package for visitors. Once you get there, everything in this small town is in walking distance, and every walk takes you along gorgeous streets lined with brightly painted heritage buildings. So why not book yourself into a hotel there, and settle in for a few days to explore Lunenburg properly and fall in love with this seaside town, just like we did.



Dine at the Grand Banker these days and you very well could be seated next to the owners family, including his wife passing around their newborn daughter, as I was on my last visit. Adam Bower

took ownership just a few months ago. He has come full-circle at the restaurant in his involvement: it was the location of his first serving job (he was hired just a year after the Banker launched eighteen years ago). Whats happening there serves as a metaphor for the dining scene in Lunenburg: a contrast of tradition and evolution. Inside the restaurant you can feel deep roots and a sense of family, but at the same time excitement and anticipation about what is new.

Theres a lot more creativity, a lot more talented chefs in the area, says Bower of the emerging food scene. The local community has a wider pallet range. Theyre looking for more unique tastes and experiences. Bower managed to entice former Delta colleague and Executive Chef Les Stevens to join him in Lunenburg. At the Banker, in particular, theyve deservedly kept on several original, core menu items like creamy spinach and Atlantic rock crab dip, Blue Rocks fish cakes, and perfectly pan-seared Adams & Knickle scallops (for which they grab their own catch right off the boat down the street). With at he menu being confidently executed by a formidable chef like Stevens, the Banker is at the top of its game.

When Les came in, I said these are what we need to keep; he tweaked presentations, and he put his spin on the rest of the menu, says Bower. I think we have a good balance., says Bower. Stevens spin brought in local meat like double smoked pork chops from The Pork Shop, served with a Baco Noir and Oxford blueberry reduction, as well as The Lunenburger, a burger made from Nova Scotia beef, topped

with smoked mozzarella, lobster, and a tarragon butter sauce. Its thats then speared, with the iconic bacon-wrapped scallop teetering on top of an artisan bun. You couldnt get that in 1996.

What the food and beverage scene in Lunenburg has become is an eclectic mix of innovators, come-from-aways and long-standing establishments who are willing to evolve. It started with the introduction of Fleur de Sel ten years ago, when chef-owner Martin Ruiz Salvador brought his experience cooking in a French, Michelin-starred restaurant to Lunenburg. Ruiz Salvadors second operation in the village, Salt Shaker Deli, has been featured on the Food Network. Its simple yet charming interior, open kitchen and delicious comfort food like thin-crust pizzas

(spicy shrimp and arugula is a personal favourite, paired with an off-dry Nova Scotia white wine) consistently deliver a stellar casual dining experience. The tiny patio out back offers views of Lunenburgs famous boat-filled harbour in the summer months. Salvadors third business is now open as well: a simple takeout joint called The South Shore Fish Shack, a shout-out to the traditional fish n chip truck.

Newcomers Lincoln Street Food and Rime Restaurant, with their seasonally-charged menus, have greatly contributed to the diversity of Lunenburgs food climate. Chef-owner Paolo Colbertraldo opened the forty-one Lincoln Street Food in May. I do something completely different, he says of his small, market-inspired menu. Its a lifestyle restaurant more than a profit-driven restaurant. Fresh oysters and thoughtful vegetarian dishes are just a couple of examples of whats offered, that for years, were missing in too many Lunenburg restaurants. Sustainably farmed Arctic char with mushroom ragout and local celeriac mash earns its place on a menu that

THE CULINARY SCENELUNENBURG MAKES BIG WAVES WITH MANY NEW OFFERINGS

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has just five main courses. A small amount of well-showcased, local ingredients per dish, that are showcased well, is the style at Lincoln Street Food. The wines are organic, the beer is local, and the cocktail offering uses Lunenburg-made Ironworks Distillery craft spirits.

Down the road, and through the doors of the historic blacksmiths shop, youll feel the warmth of Ironworks still, busy producing a single-batch creation. At the small wooden counter, complimentary tastings of their award-winning spirits, like Annapolis Valley pear eau de vie (where the fruit is grown inside the bottles), are available. It was the cuisine that brought us here, says owner-operator Lynne MacKay, of their the decision to open in Lunenburg in 2009. The fact that such a tiny community had a handful of excellent restaurants helped us make our decision, she adds. . MacKay and partner Pierre Geuvremont now supply most of the restaurants that brought them here, those who have embraced the offering of hand-made single-batch spirits.

Theres a different pace down here, explains Bower of what draws people to his hometown. And that pace invites people to relax and consume more than the towns absorbing history and maritime scenery. That pace is whats needed for eating, drinking and really experiencing the matured food culture of Lunenburg.

BURNS BLOCK

The historic Burns Block is located at232 Lincoln St. in Old Town Lunenburg

Luvly in Lunenburg

Independent CanadianClothing

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The Lunenburg Makery

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In the summer months, Lynne MacKay at Ironworks Distillery likes to talk about how her workspace stays cool with what she calls the Lunenburg air conditioning system. The old building has a door in the ceiling that

allows the hot air to escape, something that wouldve come in very handy when the distillery used to operate as a forge in the seaside town of Lunenburg.

But Ironworks Distillery is forging its own pathas an award-winning producer of rums, brandies and eau de vie. In February, their Bluenose Rum and their Apple Brandy won gold for Best Dark Rum and Best Apple Brandy, while their Aged Pear Eau De Vie won gold for Best Brandy and Best Fruit Brandy at the World Drink Awards in London, England. We were gobsmacked, says MacKay, joking that her partner, Pierre Geuvremont, sat there with his chin on our keyboard. We were so thrilled. Its a profound uptick in peoples interests.

But MacKay and Geuvremont arent in this business of distilling for awards. Theirs is a devotion to the craftsmanship involved in making small batches of well-made spirits. It all started in the late 2000s, when Geuvremont read an article on micro-distilling in a magazine. The idea of making it appealed to us, having a product that was created by us, says MacKay. The

duo did copious amounts of research, as well as attended classes at Cornell University. They went to various micro-distilleries in British Columbia and New York. But Nova Scotia was where they wanted do this. We knew that no one was doing something like this here. We knew that if it was interesting and appealing in a quirky way, that people would want to know more about it.

And they did. Since their opening in June of 2010, the duo and their staff have bee

local connections halifax - summer 2014

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