Lo Manthang – The Forbidden Kingdom

Nepal is nestled in the lap of the Himalayas and contains eight of the world’s ten highest peaks. This alone is reason enough for the world to flock to the little country. It is also a land of great diversity; its cultures, religions, geography, wildlife and ethnic groups fascinating and absorbing.

The people that inhabit the region around Mt Everest, the Sherpas, are the most easily recognizable ethnic group of Nepal. Very often, because of the popularity of climbing expeditions to Everest, Nepalese tend to get typecast as Sherpas. A traveler just has to head in a different direction to discover other ethnic groups. One of the most interesting would be the Tibetan Buddhist culture prevalent in Lo Manthang. This little kingdom’s culture, totally unadulterated over the centuries, is so well preserved in its original form that a visitor is left wondering whether this is Nepal or Tibet!

In the north of Nepal, near the Tibetan border, is Lo Manthang. It is an unspoiled Tibetan-style Buddhist walled city in the Kingdom of Lo in the restricted area of Mustang. Until very recently there were no roads and this area was closed to foreigners. The only way to get there was a 5-day trek in and out. Now with a new Chinese road in the offing, things have changed. This is where you can see distinctly Tibetan culture and hints of traditional life as it would have been centuries ago. By taking the help of a travel guide from Nepal, a visitor can get a wonderful opportunity to see the undulating mountains and picturesque valleys, all the way to the enchanted capital city of Lo Manthang.

Mustang is also called the Forbidden Kingdom. The historic villages of the valley are located at altitudes between 3,300 m and 4,000 m.  This region was once an important salt trading centre in the trans-Himalayan belt.  From Kagbeni to Tzug as you walk north to the Kali Gandaki Valley, the valley grows broader. Walking towards Samar, a traveler is surrounded by ruins of temples and fortresses. It is about here that one notices the switch to Tibetan culture and ethnicity.

Further along the way, visit the famous cave at Rongbyoung Chorten with its various stone carved deities, most prominent being the figure of Padmasambhava, (the Indian Guru who brought Buddhism to Tibet).  On the journey from Giling to Tsarang, you will pass through important ruins at Gemi.  After crossing the passes while approaching Tsarang, a large monastery is clearly visible. The monastery houses fresco paintings, hanging thankas as well as other sacred objects, reminders of the region’s rich cultural past. After Tsarang, the walk to Lo Manthang is short. Visitors cross houses and monasteries enclosed within fortress walls. While this route has been used for centuries by traders and a few scholars, only now are tourists being allowed to walk these historic paths.

The walls of the city are an impressive sight, standing proud on a plateau that is surrounded by barren slopes. The ramparts that surround the city are really striking too, standing some 5 m high and interspersed by lookout turrets. Colorful strings of prayer flags hang along the tops of the wall adding a festive air to the forbidding sight. Once inside Lo Manthang, visit its temples. Every temple has a fascinating history and beautifully done up interiors. Temple walls are covered with intricate and colorful murals, each more engaging than the last. Another landmark that really stands out is the palace, since it is the only three-storey building in the city. The unofficial king still resides here and has been known to meet travelers on occasion.

After exploring Lo Manthang, ask the Nepal tourist guide to take you back using a different route than what was used to reach the city. Cover as much of this remote area as you possibly can, once the road is fully functional, who knows how the area might change.