lipatick ppt (2)))))
TRANSCRIPT
LIPSTICKS
- Anay N. Kacharia- Pooja Mohanty
What Are
Lipsticks ?
Historical Facts Mesopotamian women were the first to decorate their lips
Abulcasis was the inventor of solid lipsticks
The Lipstick Revolution started in the 16th century
EnglandFranceAmericaIndia
Consumer expectations
Colour Appearance Uniformity of colour Shelf life
Amount of Pigmentation on First wear
Presence of any Smudgy feel
Lasting Power
Wether or not lipstick Glides on Easily
Ingredients in Lipsticks Colouring materials- Ingredient Amount in %
Staining dyes (Bromo Acids)
0.5 - 3
Oil Soluble Pigments 2
Insoluble Pigments 8 - 10
Titanium Dioxide 1 - 4
Staining dyes-
Eosin Dyes -
Pigments – (For intensity and Variation of colour)
Titanium dioxide –• Helps in obtaining Pink shades• Gives opacity• Very high Degree of Brightness
Base – A) Solid waxes-(Such as) 1) Beeswax 2) Ozokerite 3) Carnauba 4) Candelilla B) Softening agents (Such as) 1) Modified Lanolins 2) Cocoa Butter
Liquid components-
1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used) 2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) ) 3) Butyl Stearate 4) Oleyl Alcohol 5) Propylene Glycol 6) Isopropyl Myristate(Increases lip gloss) 7) Silicone fluids(Particularly Dimethyl silicone)
Other Ingredients Includes- Perfumes-(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil) Preservatives- (Paraben Family)
Antioxidants-(BHA ,BHT, Propyl Gallate)
UV Filters- (Benzophenone)
Manufacture of lipsticks5 Major Operations:-
• Colour Grinding• Melting and mixing • Moulding• Flaming• Packaging
Types of lipsticks
Pearlescent lipstick• Pearlescent pigments
possess optical effects that serve decorative purposes.
• Titanium dioxide flakes are not single crystals but polycrystalline and slightly porous.
• Packed with Vitamin E and Castor Oils for continuous moisture.
FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENT PERCENTAGE
A OZOKERITE 3.00
CANDELILLA WAX 9.00
YELLOW CARNAUBA WAX 3.00
BEESWAX 2.00
GLYCERYL DILAURATE 5.00
C12 C15 ALCOHOL LACTATE 5.00
ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 12.00
CASTOR OIL 26.00
LANOLIN 9.20
MINERAL OIL 5.00
OCTYL DIMETHYL PABA 0.15
ANTIOXIDANT 0.05
SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENTAGEB D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE 2.25
OCTYLDODECYL STREARAYL STEARATE 5.25C F D&C BLUE NO. 1 Al LAKE IN CASTOR OIL 0.80D MICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.00E FRAGRANCE 0.30
BrandsBRAND REVLON AMWAY
MAJOR INGREDIENT
Trioctyldodecyl Citrate,Polybutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate,Bis Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate 2,Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C) Serica Poudre de Soie (Silk Powder), SILICA
Capric, octyl methoxy cinnamate, octyl triisotearyl citrate, benzophenone-3, PVP/ hexadecene copolymer, shea butter, almond oil, jajoba oil,
COST Rs 525 Rs 259
STAYING POWER
6-7 HRS `4-5 HRS
Lipstick for Hot Countries• Enriched with Botanical
extracts.
• Hydrates and protects lips for hours
• Color pigments contain:I) Symphytum Officinale
(Comfrey) II)Sambucus Nigra SeedIII)Plantago Ovata Seed
FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENATGE
A OZOKERITE 12.00
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL
12.00
HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL
13.00
CETYL RICINOLEATE 2.50
GLYCERYL ABIETATE 2.50
ANTIOXIDANT (BHA) 0.50
B CASTOR OIL 35.00
C PIGMENTS AND PERFUMES q.s.
Pigments used…
• Mica• Iron oxide (CI
77491,77492,77499)• Titanium dioxide (CI
77891)• Bismuth oxychloride (CI
77163)• Red 6 lake (CI 15850)
• Red 27 lake (CI 45410)• Red 33 lake (CI 17200)• Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985)• Blue 1 lake (CI 42090)• Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140)• Carmine (CI 75470)• Red 7 lake (CI 15850)
BrandsBRAND LAKME 9 TO 5 NYX
MAJOR INGREDIENT
Trioctyldodecylcitrate,Ethylhexyl palmitate,Octyldodecylpentanotetraisostearate,Caprylic/capric triglyceride,C10-30 cholesterol/ lanosterol esters,B15- diglycerylc polyadipate-2,Calcium sodim bromosilicate,paraffin
Diisostearyl Malate,Polyglyceryl -2 Triisostearate,Isostearyl Isostearate, Bis-Digylceryl Polyacyladipade-2,Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyethylene, octyldodeanol, Polyisobutene,Ethylhexyl Palmitate,Ceresin,
COST Rs 375 Rs 209
STAYING POWER
8-9 HRS `6-7 HRS
High Gloss Lipstick• Gives lips a glossy
luster and sometimes subtle color.
• Distributed as a liquid or solid.
• Can be translucent, or various shades of opacity.
FormulationCONTENT PERCENTAGE CONTENT PERCENTAGE
LANOLIN OIL 12.48 OLEYL ALCOHOL 32.63
C10-C30 ESTERS 7.39 CASTOR OIL 20.57
PARAFFIN WAX 2.11 C18-C36 ACID TRIGLYCERIDE
9.51
C18-C36 ACID GLYCOL ESTER
6.34 BHA 0.05
PERFUME 1.00 D&C RED NO. 21 0.22
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 2.85 BROWN IRON OXIDE
0.61
D&C RED NO. 6 (BARIUM LAKE)
1.21 PEARL AGENTS 3.03
Pigments used
• CI 77019 (Mica), • CI 77891 (Titanium
Dioxide), • CI 77491/77492/77499
(Iron Oxides), • CI 771663 (Bismuth
Oxychloride), • CI 75470 (Carmine), • CI 77742 (Manganese
Violet),
• CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21 Lake/Red 22 Lake),
• CI 73360 (Red 30), • CI 16035 (Red 40 Lake), • CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake),• CI 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake).• CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake), • CI 15850 (Red 6/Red 6
Lake/Red 7/Red 7 Lake), • CI 77947 (Zinc Oxide),
BrandsBRAND L’OREAL SEPHORA
MAJOR INGREDIENT
sesame seed oil, oleyl erucate, disteardimonium hectorite, tocopheryl acetate rosa canina fruit oil,calcium aluminum borosilicate,silica, argan oil, geraniol,hexyl cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, calcium sodium borosilicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, methyl-2 octynoate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethyl methacrylate
Glyceryl Caprylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopherol,Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Isocetyl Stearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Polybutene
COST Rs 690 Rs 569
STAYING POWER
7-8 HRS `5-6 HRS
Transparent Lipstick
• The inventor is Debra Digirlamo
• It uses soluble or soluble or Solublized dyes
• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkylolamide of mixed fatty acids or dipropylene glycol methyl ether.
• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish
Content Percent
Polyamide Resin(average MW 800) 20
Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-700) 5
Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 28
Castor Oil 12.6
Eosin 0.3
Dipropylene glycol methyl ether 8
Ethoxylated lanolin ether 10
Content PercentEthoxylated Lanolin alcohols(5 moles EO)
10.1
Anhydrous Isopropanol 5Perfume 1
Liquid lipstick's
• These lipsticks provide more permanent films
•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs on application of these types of lipsticks.
Brand Chambor CP Trendies Key Ingredients
Polybutene, Mineral oil,Shea Butter, Octyl dodecanol,Triclosan,Emulsifying wax, Hexadecene co –polymer,Candelila wax, BHT, Propyl Paraben ,Vit A palmitate,Vit E Acetate, Bees wax, Microfine titanium dioxide, Silica, cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl Mono Stearate, Octyl dimethyl PABA, Beta Sitosterol, Oxynex ST liquid . Micro crystalline wax .Perfume
polybutene ,lanolin,isopropyl palmitate,castoroil , stearalkonium hectorite, silica ,propylene carbonate ,aloe barbadensis leaf extract .mineral oil ,coconut oil, tocopheryl acetate ,wheat germ glycerides , almond oil ,propylparaben , allantoin,BHT,fragrance.titanium dioxide , Bismuth oxychloride,Allantoin
Cost Rs 350/- Rs 1200/-
Evaluation of finished products
• Color control• Determination of melting point• Softening point• Microbial testing (IS: 9875:1990)• Rancidity (IS: 10284:1982)• Rupture test• Breaking load test ( IS 9875:1990)
Defects in lipsticks
• Problems with Ingredients
• Moulding related problems
Formulation related problems
• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in ferior oil binding
• Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from waxy base
• Blooming: due to higher %age of cetyl alcohol• Streaking: expected to be caused due to
titanium dioxide
Moulding related problems
• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or homogeneous
• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick
develops dimples• Mushy Failure: caused due to granularity of
carnauba wax
Deformation occurring when coring takes place on side of the mould
LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING MUSHY FAILURE
Hidden Problems with Ingredients
References:-• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda
• Harry’s Cosmeticology
•Wikipedia
THANK YOU…