line product development-kincadetech_pp12a

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Line Product Development

Chapter 12


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Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/eDoris Kincade & Fay Gibson

2010 Pearson Higher Education,

Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.2

Objectives

Delineate the process of getting samplesprepared for approval

Identify the specifications used for an apparel

or home furnishing item

Explain the importance of specifications to a

consumer-centric company

Discuss how specifications are developed in a

collaborative environment


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Objectives

Explain how specifications are approved,

monitored and controlled

Calculate a quick cost for a product

Discuss how the determination ofmanufacturability can affect the initial design

of a product


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Objectives

Calculate final wholesale cost

Identify the importance of feedback to the

consumer-centric company

Discuss the final adoption and approvalprocesses for the line products


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Line Product Development

Actualizing color, style and fabrication selected in the

line concept development stage

Moving product from line concepts of designers,merchandisers and product developers to sample

Initiating and executing creative and applied designactivities as well as technical design functions

to begin season line development and to implement initial

line plan


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Line Product

Development

Process


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Initiating the Line Product

Tools

Fashion sketches

Flats or technical

sketches

Fashion Designer:

Amber Roth


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Samples

Design sample (also calledprototype) Made from sample fabric, ordered for cutting and sewing

the design sample

Made in the facilities at the corporate offices, where the

design and merchandising teams are housed

Prototyping

Process of making the sample from a sketch

Sample room hands Make samples for the designer

Are highly skilled operators who have worked with the

designer for many years


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Line Sheets

Provide basic

information about the

product

Style number, technical

sketch, price range orprice point, deadlines,

season, fabric swatch,

trim and colors

Also called protospecsbecause they are

preliminary spec sheetsFashion Designer

Katie Keene


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Style Adoption

Style Adoption Meeting

Also called Line Development Meeting

Merchandisers meet with

sales personnel, top management, production managers, and

other decision makers to confirm the styles of the seasonal

product line


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Story Boards

Contain visual images of

styles for the season

May also include other

graphics Colorways, logos, prints,

fabrics

Used in the Style

Adoption Meeting

Story Board Courtesy of

The AmericTech Group, USA, Inc.


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Product Specifications

Are technical guidelinesfor all aspects of the

product

Always contain style

numbers, product line,sizing, theme

Used to control and

evaluate product quality

Also called Spec Sheets Design Spec


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Product Specifications

A set of specs for one product

Is called a Spec Book

Usually eight or more specs

Typical specs are

Design, fabric, findings, cutting, sewing, sizing, fit and

final inspection


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Fabric Specs

Contain information

about

Fiber content and fabric

construction

Testing information

Desired

Fabric

Criteria

Test Standard

FadingAATCC

61

3 Gray

Scale

PillingASTM D

35123

Shrinkage

Filling

AATCC

135


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Cut and Sew Spec Terms

Cut order planning Detailed information about cutting equipment and procedure

Cut order

Request to have markers cut from specified fabric

Identify which sizes and how many units of each size must

be cut

Stitch and Seam Standards

ISO 4915 / 4916 or ASTM D6193-97 with pictures

Sew Details

Detailed descriptions or pictures about specific design areas

on the product


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Cut Room at Karen Kane, Los Angeles

Courtesy of

Karen Kane


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Fabric Sourcing

Merchandisers participate in trade fairs to market and

find the right fabrics

Interstoff Trade Fair - Frankfurt, Germany

Techtextil ShowFrankfurt, highlights nonwovens and

technical textiles

Premiere Vision in Paris, France

Ideacomo in Como, Italy

Pitti Filati yarn show in Florence, Italy

Canton Trade Fair in Canton, China Premire Vision Preview, International Fashion Fabric

Exhibition (IFFE) and Texworld USA - New York City

Material WorldMiami, FL


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First Pattern Development - Tools

Tools

Basic slopers

Rub-off

Design sample

First pattern maker

Highly paid and highly

skilled employee withextensive pattern

experience


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Fabric and Color Checks

Color Quality

Color standard

Color consistency

Tools

Lab dip

Hand-loomed sample

Knitdowns

Yarn dip

Strike off

Color Matching SamplesCourtesy of The AmeriTech Group,

USA, Inc.


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Manufacturability

Agreement that the product sample made in the

designers sample room can be made efficiently

and effectively on the sewing production floor

Manufacturability is evaluated using production

sample or counter sample


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ManufacturabilityDecisions and Terms

Sewability

Componentization

Product sample quality

Reiterations

Manufacturing Meeting

Final approval of the production sample Includes merchandisers, designers, product developers,

production engineers and floor managers


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Costing - Quick Cost

Also called preliminary cost

Based on yardage needed determined from production

sample

Formula

Quick cost = Fabric cost X 3


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CostingFinal Cost

Two goals are accomplished:

Costs of designing and producing the product are covered

and profit goals may be achieved

Cost will be appealing to the retailer and will result in an

attractive price to the consumer

Created through use of a cost sheet

Exact information is entered

Components are Fabrications, labor, and company overhead


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Costing Terms

Calculations and entries on cost sheet Standard allowable minutes (SAMs)

Labor costs - sewing labor and indirect labor

Total manufactured costs (TMC)

Total cost

Landed cost (LC)

Vendor retail price

Price Meeting

Finalize the cost of each SKU

Composed of merchandisers, product developers,

patternmakers, purchasing agents, and finance personnel


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Line Release

Merchandiser will check production sample

For adherence to product trueness to the initial design

Prototype approval samples (PAS)

Production samples judged to meet establishedspecifications and are released by the merchandiser

Freeze Meeting

Preview and finalize the new seasonal line

Includes personnel from across the multiple functions in a

company


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Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/e 2010 Pearson Higher Education,U S ddl Ri NJ 07458 All Ri h R d

Preparing the Line for Market

Marketing Freeze Meeting Finalize the marketing materials for each line

Includes a team of product merchandisers, product

developers, and marketing personnel

Sales Meeting Educate the sales team or account managers on how to sell

the line to the retail client

Present product offering and marketing materials for the

new season

Includes merchandisers, marketing personnel and the sales

representatives or account executives, who sell-in the

merchandise to the retailer

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