light and layered knits: 19 sophisticated designs for every season
TRANSCRIPT
Light&Layered
KNITS19sophisticateddesigns
foreveryseason
VickiSquare
Acknowledgments
ForJustine,theembodimentofclass.
IamgratefultoInterweaveforbeingmylong-timepartnerincreativity.Ihavemuchtobethankfulfor,includingthemanywhohavecontributedtothisbook.
IthankAllisonKorleskiforhervisionarylookintothisbook’spossibilitiesintheinitialstages;AnnBuddforherattentiontodetail,herexcellenteditingskills,andherknowledgeableguidance;EveNgforheraccuratetechnicaleditingandcompanionablewayofworking;LizQuanforhercompleteunderstandingofmyvisionandherstylishartdirection;JoeHancockforhisincredibleartistryinphotography,andhisassistants,JonRoseandScottWallace,forhospitalityandfun;KathyMacKayforlovelyhairandmakeuponmodelsAri,Christin,Eve,andJessica,whobroughtmyvisiontolifesobeautifully;PamelaChavezforprovidingjusttherightwardrobes;JuliaBoylesforhergraphicartscreativityinbringingabeautifulbooktolife;andElisabethMalzahnforexpertlygettingthewordout.Finally,IthankRebeccaCampbell,whoseconstantencouragement,attentiontoschedule,andoversightkeptmegoingwithenthusiasm.
Honorsgotomyknittingfamily,whoworktirelesslytohelpmeachievemygoals.MyknittersparexcellenceareMickyShafer,GinaKohler,NancyHewitt,SallyThieszen,KarenTadich,JeanneFangman,JoanPickett,andJulieRichter.Icouldnotdothiswithoutyou,asyouwellknow.
Toalltheyarncompanies,Ithankyouforgivingknitterseverywheremagnificentyarnstochoosefromandforgraciouslyprovidingsomeofthemtobringmydesignstolife:LouetNorthAmerica,TahkiStacyCharles,SouthWestTradingCompany,Rowan/WestminsterFibers,ClassicEliteYarns,PlymouthYarnCompany,CascadeYarns,MistiAlpaca,BlueHeron,andSkacel’sAustermann,Schulana,andZitron.Inowhavenewyarnfavoritestoaddtomylongstandingones.
Asalways,heartfeltgratitudegoestomyfamilyfortheirunbrokenstreamof
encouragmentandforlettingmeburymyheadinthesand,er,yarn,whilelifegoesonwithoutmeforawhile.MyhusbandJohnny,oursonAlex,anddaughterandson-in-lawJustineandJeffrey—thankyouforbeingmyrudderintheseaofbookwriting.
Contents
TheLight&LayeredWomanRenaissance
Pier39
TailoredPleats
RuffleShell
Kaleidoscope
WrapBlouse
ZigzagShell
TuscanyLace
ParisLights
Kathmandu
OrigamiFlower
SportZip
BoldAran
JaneAustenSpencer
GemstoneLace
LaceFinery
Less-is-MoreTee
CelticQueen
Tesserae
Glossary
SourcesforSupplies
TheLight&LayeredWomanToday’swomanisamodernmavenofmulti-tasking.Asawhole,wehavebecomeexpertsatfluidlymovingfromonepursuittothenextwithnaryamomenttorecalibrateourfocus.Wearepassionateaboutallthethingswedo,bringingourgiftednessintothemixofworkandplay.Wewantourwardrobestospeakofthatmettle,andtoreflectour
personalstyles.
Myinspirationforthiscollectionwastogathergarmentsthateveryknitterwantstowearanyday,anywhere,andinanyseason.Withthatgoalinmind,Ihavedesignedanumberoflightweighttopsthatarefunctionalonsomanylevelsthatyou’llreturntothemagainandagaintoanteuptothatperfectblendoffeelingconfident,comfortable,andchic.Thegarmentdesignsarestreamlinedandfigureflatteringforenduringstyle,givingahealthybolstertoyourvaluableknittingtime.Simpleelegancedefineseachpiece,whetheritisdesignedforaclosefitorloosedrape.
Creativedetailspromoteauniquepresentation—cables,raisedstitches,pleats,andpeplumsdefineshape.Lace,intarsia,FairIsle,andslip-stitchpatternsofferchallengesinknittingtechnique.Thecolorpaletteisattimesvividandboldorneutralandsubtle,andcanalwaysbepersonalized.Ihaveusedtraditionalknittingtechniquesinunusualwaysandincombinationstogiveyourwardrobeartisticpanache.
Theseprojectsincludeyarnsoflinen,silk,bamboo,rayon,cotton,soy,andnaturalfibersofthenon-woolvariety,alongwithsomebeautifulsyntheticnoveltyexceptions.Theyprovideasolidfoundationforbuildingawardrobelightenoughtowearyearround,nexttotheskinorinlayers,foravarietyoflooksandstyles.
Layeringisthecontemporarywaytopersonalizestyleandexpandfunctionforcomfortinanysituation.Layersaccommodateavarietyofclimates,seasonaltemperaturechanges,dailyfluctuationsbetweenthehot(orcold)outdoorsandthecool(orwarm)indoors,andevenourownunreliableinternalthermostats.
Layeringalsoallowsustotransitonbetweentheactivitiesofanygivenday—perhapsfrombusinesscasualatwork,followedbyasportingevent,andthentoarestaurant.Clearly,onestylewillnotservealleventsequally,butwiththoughtfullyselectedkeywardrobepieces,youcaneasilychangeoneortwoouterpiecesoraccessoriesandcompletelychangethelooktofitthesituationathand.
Thelightweightsweatersinthiscollectioncangoseamlesslyfromonelooktoanother,simplybychangingawardrobebasic,suchasfromapencilskirttodresspantstoapairofjeans.Theideabehindthis,ofcourse,isthatthefabulous
sweateryoujustknittedisthepiecethatisconstant!
Knittingiscertainlyalifestyle,andthoseofuswhopartakeinitenjoyhours,whichgrowintoyears,ofjoyousactivity.Butwearingyourknittingisalifestyleallitsown.Thereisawealthofgarmenttypes,fromclassictraditionalstoone-of-a-kindartfulstatementsthatmayoutfitonlyasinglelook.Ibelievethatthereisroomforallofthesepursuits.Iwill,however,entreatyoutoviewaportionofyourknittingasawardrobebuilder,sothatyouwillhaveaselectionofknittedbasicstoelevatetheaestheticofallpotentialensemblecoordinates.
ItBeginsandEndswithFitWealltendtochooseclothingthatfitsusbestwhendecidingwhattoweareachday.Andweallhaveexamplesof“almost-but-not-quite”garmentsthatweneverwearbutrefusetogetridof.Moreoftenthannot,aless-than-pleasingfitdrivesthatgarmentbackintothecloset.Nothingruinsthesuccessofawardrobefaster
thanillfit.Withamultitudeofaccuratebodymeasurements,knowledgeofhowtouseyourgauge,andafewtricksofthetrade,youcanachievetherightfitforyou.
First,takeaccuratebodymeasurements.Attheveryleast,youneedtoknowyourbust/chest,waist,andhipcircumferences,andtheideallengthsfromhipstounderarmandfromunderarmtoshoulder.Alsoextremelyhelpfularetheupperbackwidth,armlengthfromtheedgeoftheshoulderbonetothewristbonewhenthearmisslightlybent,underarmtowristbonewitharmslightlybent,andunderarmtothenarrowestpartofthewaist.Themoreparticularyouareaboutthemeasurements,thebetteryoucanmakeadjustmentstopatternsforthebestfit.Oneeasywaytogetthefityoulikeistomeasureafavoritegarmentfromyourclosetthatfitsperfectly.Takecarefulmeasurementandknityourownpiecetothesamedimensions.
Keepinmindthatbodymeasurementsdonotincludeease—it’suptoyoutodecidehowmucheaseyouwantandtoincludeitinthegarmentmeasurements.Aclose-fittingsweaterisonethatdoesn’thavemuchease—ithugsthebodyandrevealsallthecurves.Suchgarmentsmayactuallymeasureoneortwoinches(2.5to5cm)smallerthanthebodycircumferencesothattheystretchforabody-consciousfit.Ifyou’dratherhaveyourgarmenthangabitlooser,addabout2"to4"(5to10cm)ofeasetoyourbodycircumference.Addmoreeaseifyou’dlikeaveryloose,baggyfit.
Second,youmustknowyourgauge.Eachpatterngivesagaugeforthenumberofstitchesinwidthandthenumberofrowsinlengthofa4"(10cm)square.Knitagenerousswatchandmeasureatleast4"(10cm)ineachdirectiontoaccountforanypartialstitchesorrowsperinchoffabric.Ifyouusetheyarnspecifiedinthepatternandmakesureyourgaugematchesthatlisted,yourresultswithlooklikethephotograph.Butbeawarethatifyousubstituteadifferentyarn,youwillalterthelook,feel,anddrapeofthedesign.Inthesecases,youmightwanttomakesomechanges.
Ifyourgaugedoesnotmatchthatspecified,youcanadjustyourneedlesize—largerneedlescreatelargerstitchesandfewerstitchesperinch;smallerneedlescreatesmallerstitchesandmorestitchesperinch.Ifyouchangeneedlesizeandfindthattheresultingfabriciseithertoostiffortooloose,keepexperimentingwithneedlesizeuntilyou’rehappywiththehandandtexture.Then,youcanadjustthenumbersinthepatterntofityournewgauge.
Thenumbersinthepatternthatindicatestitchcountmaybeadjustedforyournewgaugethroughasimpleformula,particularlyifthedesignisstraightforwardwithoutalotofshaping.Toadjustforadifferentgauge,divideyourgauge(institches/inch)bythegaugespecifiedinthepattern(alsoinstitches/inch)tofindaconversionfactorthatyoucanusetoadjustallthestitchnumbersinthepattern.
Forexample,let’ssaythatthepatternfora36"(91.5cm)pullovercallsfor20stitches/4"(10cm)andyou’regettingagaugeof22stitches/4"(10cm).Divideyourgaugeof22bythepatterngaugeof20togetaconversionfactorof1.1%.Ifthepatternsaystocaston180stitches,you’dmultiply180bytheconversionof1.1%todeterminethenumberofstitchesyoushouldcastonforyourgauge:
180stitches×1.1%=198stitches
Youwouldworkthesameconversioneverytimeanumberofstitchesisspecifiedinthepattern.However,keepinmindthatthisworksbestforsimpleshapesworkedinsimplestitchpatterns.Theformulawon’tworkaswellfordesignsthatinvolvecomplicatedsilhouettes,texturalstitchcombinations,short-
rowshaping,orthatrequireaspecificnumberofrows.Inthesecases,unlessyou’repreparedtodoyourowncalculations,it’sbesttousetheyarnindicatedbythepatternandthesizeofneedlesthatgivesyouthespecifiedgauge.
TipsforBuildingYourOwnWardrobeAlthoughweallhaveclosetsfullofgarments,ifyouwanttobuildaversatilewardrobe,allyouneedaretenpiecesthatyoucanmix,match,andlayer,andyou’resetfortwoweeksoftravel.Takeamomenttobeyourownwardrobeconsultant.Tobegin,drawaverticallinedownasheetofpaper.Ontheleft,listyourmainactivities;ontheright,listthetypesofclothingyou’dlikeforeachactivity.Next,lookforduplicatesinthegarmentlist,aswellaspiecesthatwouldbewornwithregularity.Thesearethegarmentstobeginwith—thosethatfityourpersonallifestyle.
Forexample,astay-at-homemomwithsmallchildrenmayneedmostlycasualclothingthat’scomfortablebutstillgivesafashionableandchicappearance.Jeans,leggings,andcargopantsmayallappeal,andiftheyarepairedwithaknittedshellortoppedwithalooseknittedtunicorcardigan,momcangofromplaydatetothegrocerystoretoacasualrestauranttomeetdad,allwithoutchangingathing(unlessstickyfingersarewipedonherpantsalongtheway).
Considerapersonaltrainerandbasketballcoach,foradifferentexample.Thiswomanmayspendmostofherdaysinathleticclothes,butlooksforwardtoswitchingfromcross-trainerstochicpumpsandthrowingonaknittedtunicoverherleggingstomeetherbeauforamoviedate.
Areyouanattorneywholivesinabusinesssuit?Ifthatsuitiscutforyourproportions,itbecomessophisticatedstagingforaknittedsilkshell.Throughknitting,youcanbreaktheexpectedmold.
Inourbusylives,ourwardrobesshouldofferabackdropforsuccess,notadistractiontocrampourstyles.Knittingisdefinitelypartofmylifestyle,butwearingthatknittingtakessomethingcommonandmakesituncommonlymeaningful.
Renaissance
Intheartisticrebirthofthefifteenthcentury,fabulouslytexturedclothingisdepictedinnearlyeverypainting.Thissimplepulloverpayshomagetotheheaviertextureofthecoarselywovenpeasantshirtsofthetime.Knittedatafinegaugewithablendofrayon,cotton,andlinen,thisversionisshapedandlightweightandfeaturesawideandsomewhatsquarenecklinethatistheperfectfoilforabitofimpromptufancy:FairIslechecksembellishedwithFrenchknotsandflankedbygarter-stitchstripes.Jewelryisoptional.
FINISHEDSIZE
About33(36,39,42,45,48)"(84[91.5,99,106.5,114.5,122]cm)bustcircumference.Pullovershownmeasures36"(91.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:RowanPanama(55%rayon,33%cotton,12%linen;148yd[135m]/50g):#307tulip(MC),8(8,9,10,10,11)balls;#306begonia(A)and#305dahlia(B),1balleach.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.3(3.25mm):24"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Markers(m);open-ringmarkers;wasteyarnforholdingsts;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
27stsand40rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BackWithMCandsmallerneedle,CO119(129,139,149,159,169)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Nextrow:(RS)K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Repset-uprowoncemore.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkeveninStst(knitRSrows;purlWSrows)untilpiecemeasures3"(7.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseven.
Repthelast8rows6moretimes—105(115,125,135,145,155)stsrem.
ConteveninStstuntilpiecemeasures11"(28cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7rowseven.
Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—111(121,131,141,151,161)sts.Workevenuntilpiecemeasures15"(38cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO5stsatbegofnext0(0,0,2,2,2)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,2,2,4)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,0,0,0)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll6(6,6,8,8,8)rows,thenBO1statbegoffoll2rows—91(93,103,
105,115,117)stsrem.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworkasforback.
RightSleeveWithMCandsmallerneedle,CO75(75,81,89,91,91sts.Donotjoin.
Set-uprow:(WS)[P1,k1]18(18,20,23,24,24)times,p1,placemarker(pm),p15,pm,[p1,k1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,p1.
Row1:(RS)[K1,p1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,k1,slipmarker(slm),k15,slm,[k1,p1]18(18,20,23,24,23)times,k1.
Row2:(WS):[P1,k1]18(18,20,23,24,24)times,p1,slm,p15,slm,[p1,k1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,p1.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Replacemarkerswithopen-ringmarkersbetweenstitchesinfabrictodefinepleatplacement.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workLLIinnextst,knittolast2sts,workRLIinnextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work15(11,11,11,11,7)rowseven.
Repthelast16(12,12,12,12,8)rows5(9,8,9,9,14)moretimes—87(95,99,109,111,121)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures14"(35.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO5stsatbegofnext0(0,0,2,2,2)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,
2,2,4)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,0,0,0)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll6(6,6,8,8,8)rows,thenBO1statbegoffoll2rows—67(67,71,73,75,77)stsrem.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LeftSleeveWithMCandsmallerneedle,CO75(75,81,89,91,91)sts.Donotjoin.
Set-uprow:(WS)[P1,k1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,p1,pm,p15,pm,[p1,k1]18(18,20,23,24,24)times,p1.
Row1:(RS)[K1,p1]18(18,20,22,23,23)times,k1,slm,k15,slm,[k1,p1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,k1.
Row2:(WS)[P1,k1]11(11,12,13,13,13)times,p1,slm,p15,slm,[p1,k1]18(18,20,23,24,24)times,p1.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Replacemarkerswithopen-ringmarkersbetweenstitchesinfabrictodefinepleatplacement.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workLLIinnextst,knittolast2sts,workRLIinnextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work15(11,11,11,11,7)rowseven.
Repthelast16(12,12,12,12,8)rows5(9,8,9,9,14)moretimes—87(95,99,109,111,121)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures14"(35.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO5stsatbegofnext0(0,0,2,2,2)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,2,2,4)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,0,0,0)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll6(6,6,8,8,8)rows,thenBO1statbegoffoll2rows—67(67,71,
73,75,77)stsrem.
Placestsonwasteyarnholder.
FairIsle
YokeWithRSfacing,placeallpiecesonlargerneedleasfoll:91(93,103,105,115,117)backsts,67(67,71,73,75,77),leftsleevests,pm,91(93,103,105,115,117)frontsts,pm,67(67,71,73,75,77)rightsleevests—316(320,348,356,
380,388)ststotal.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.
Decrnd:K1,ssk,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm;repfrom3moretimes—8stsdec’d.
Nextrnd:Knit.
Repthelast2rnds18(18,20,21,22,23)moretimes—164(168,180,180,196,196)stsrem;53(55,61,61,69,69)stseachforbackandfront,29stsforeachsleeve.
ChangetoAandworkasfoll:
Rnd1:K1,ssk,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm;repfrom3moretimes—8stsdec’d.
Rnd2:Purl.
ChangetoBandrepthelast2rnds.
ChangetoMCandrepRnd1.
Nextrnd:Purlandatthesametimedec1(0,0,0,2,2)stsevenlyspacedinthebackandagaininthefront—138(144,156,156,168,168)stsrem;46(49,55,55,61,61)stseachinfrontandback,23stsineachsleeve.
WorkRnds1–3ofFairIslechart.
Nextrnd:WithMC,k1,ssk,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm;repfrom3moretimes—8stsdec’d.
Nextrnd:Purl.
ChangetoBandrepthelast2rndsonce.
Nextrnd:WithA,k1,ssk,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm;repfrom3moretimes—114(120,132,132,144,144)stsrem.
BOallstspurlwise.
FinishingWithWSfacing,steam-block(seeGlossary)garment.Layflatandallowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
CuffPleatsFoldloweredgeofsleevewithRSfacingtog,matchingedgesofStstatcenterofribbingbetweenopen-ringmarkers.Withabout12"(30.5cm)ofMCthreadedonatapestryneedle,RSfacing,andusingthemattressstforStst(seeGlossary)leavinga6"(15cm)tail,sewpleatfor1¾"(4.5cm)upfromCOedge.InsertneedletoWSanduseasinglewhipstitch(seeGlossary)tosecureinplace.Thread6"(15cm)tailontoatapestryneedleandwhipstitchalllayerstogalongCOedge,placingpleatfoldtowardfrontofsleeve.
Steam-blockpleattosetseams.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.SteamseamsfromWS.
TurnsleevesRSoutand,withRSfacingtogandmatchingarmholeshaping,pinsleevesintoarmholes.
Useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojointhepiecestog.SteamseamsfromWS.
EmbroideryWithMCthreadedonatapestryneedle,workaFrenchknot(seeGlossary)centeredineachFairIslesquarearoundtheneckline,bringingneedleupfromWStotherightofthecenterstinRow3ofthechartedpatt,workaFrenchknot,theninsertneedletoWStotheleftofthecenterstinthesamerow.
Weaveinlooseends.SteamfromWStosetsts.
KnowYourYarn:Cotton
Cottonisasoftfluffyfiberthatgrowsinaboll,aprotectivecapsuleonacottonshrub.Itisalmostpurecellulose.Cottonhasbeencultivatedsinceantiquity,withsomeoftheearliestfabricevidenceseeninPakistanfromatleast5,000B.C.
AmericanEliWhitney’sinventionofthecottonginloweredthecostofproductionandledtowidespreaduseofcottonfortextilesandothergoods.Cottonisnowthemostusedfiberfortextilesworldwide.
Cottonfibershavegooddimensionalstabilityandareuniforminsizeandshape.Cottonfabricsandyarnaresturdy,durable,andlonglasting.Cottontakesdyewellandhasgoodcolorretention,andiseasilylaunderedbymachine.Asayarn,itiseasytohandle;asagarmentitissoft,breathable,andextremelycomfortable.
Pier39
Asolid-colorshapedshellisanindispensiblewardrobebasic.Thisstreamlineddesignwithpuzzle-piececonstructionmakesforanadventureinknittingthatisnotforthefainthearted.Shapedpiecesandcableborderswithshort-rowshapingareknittedseparatelyandsewntogether.Whilethekeyholeinthebackreflectsclassicstyle,theelongatedfrontkeyholeisunexpectedlyboldforwhatisgenerallyconsideredtobeanunderstatedgarment.Wornlayeredunderashaped,structuredsuitjacket,itisaboldpopofcolorwithvisualtexturethattosses“plain”outthewindow.
FINISHEDSIZE
About34(36,38,40)"(86.5[91.5,96.5,101.5]cm)bustcircumference.
Shellshownmeasures34"(86.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:FilaturadiCrosaBrilla(42%cotton,58%viscoserayon;120yd[110m]/50g):#391red,8(9,10,11)balls.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.6(4.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):24"(60cm)cirandextraneedlethesamesizeorsmallerforthree-needlebind-off.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Markers(m);stitchholders;sizeE/4(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
24stsand27rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BackWithsmallerneedle,CO119(125,131,137)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p1throughbackloop(tbl),k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Row2:P1,k1,p1tbl,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Repthelast2rowsonce,thenworkRow1oncemore.
Nextrow:(WS)Purlandatthesametimedec12stsevenlyspaced—107(113,119,125)stsrem.
Changetolargerneedlework8rowseveninStst.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work5rowseven.
Repthelast6rows4moretimes,thenrepdecrowoncemore—95(101,107,113)stsrem.
Work15(17,19,21)rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—101(107,113,119)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13½(13¾,14,14¼)"(34.5[35,35.5,36]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeRightArmholeandKeyhole
Note:Keyholeshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Atrightarmholeedge(begofRSrows),BO5sts0(0,0,1)time,thenBO4stsonce,thenBO3sts0(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,0)time—6(9,12,15)armholestsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rowsonce.
Repdecrow,thenwork11rowseven.Repthelast12rowsonce,thenrepdeconcemore—5morearmholestsdec’dtotal.
Atthesametimeshapekeyholeasfoll:
Useanopen-ringmarkertomarkcenterst.
BegonsamerowasfirstarmholeBO,knittocenter,includingmarkedcenterst.Placeremstsonholdertoworklaterforleftarmhole.
Nextrow:BO1stpwiseforkeyhole,purltoend—backissplitintotwosides.
Contshapingrightarmholeandworkkeyholeasfoll:
DecRow1:(RS)Workingarmholeshapingasestablished,knittolast3sts,k2tog,k1—1keyholestdec’d.
DecRow2:(WS)P1,p2tog,purltoend—1keyholestdec’d.
Repthelast2rows4moretimes—10stsdec’datkeyholein10rows.
RepDecRow1onceagain,thenpurl1roweven.Repthelast2rows3moretimes—4morekeyholestsdec’d.
Work4(4,6,8)rowseven.
IncRow1:(RS)Knittolast2sts,workLLIinnextst,k1—1keyholestinc’d.
IncRow2:(WS)P1,workLLIpurlwiseinnextst,purltoend—1keyholestinc’d.
Repthelast2rowsonce,thenrepIncRow1onceagain—5keyholeststotalinc’d.
Nextrow:(WS)Usethebackward-loopmethod(seeGlossary)toCO2sts,purlthese2ststbl,thenpurltoend—2keyholestsinc’d.
Knit1RSrow.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore—4keyholeststotalCO.
ShapeRightNeck
Atneckedge(begofWSrows)andworkingpurlwise,BO2sts2times,thenBO3sts5times,thenBO4sts2times—7stsremforallsizes.
Placestsonholder.
ShapeLeftArmholeandKeyhole
Note:Keyholeshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Transferheldbackststolargercirneedle.Joinyarnatcenteredge.
Atleftarmholeedge,(begofWSrows),BO5sts0(0,0,1)time,thenBO4stsonce,thenBO3sts0(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,0)time—6(9,12,15)armholestsBO.
Decrow:(RS)Knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rowsonce.
Repdecrow,thenwork11rowseven.Repthelast12rowsonce,thenrepdecrowoncemore—5armholeststotaldec’d.
AtthesametimebegonRSrowfollfirstarmholeBO,shapekeyholeasfoll:
DecRow1:(RS)K1,ssk,knittoend—1keyholestdec’d.
DecRow2:(WS)Workingarmholeshapingasestablished,purltolast3sts,ssp(seeGlossary),p1—1keyholestdec’d.
Repthelast2rows4moretimes—10stsdec’datkeyholein10rows.
RepDecRow1onceagain,thenpurl1roweven.Repthelast2rows3moretimes—4morekeyholestsdec’d.
Work4(4,6,8)rowseven.
IncRow1:(RS)K1,workRLIinnextst,knittoend—1keyholestinc’d.
IncRow2:(WS)Purltolast2sts,RLIpurlwiseinnextst,p1—1keyholestinc’d.
Repthelast2rowsonce,thenrepIncRow1onceagain—5keyholeststotalinc’d.
Purl1roweven.
Nextrow:(RS)Usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO2sts,knittoend—2keyholestsinc’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rowsoncemore—4keyholeststotalCO.
ShapeLeftNeckAtneckedge(begofRSrows)BO2sts2times,thenBO3sts5times,thenBO4sts2times—7stsremforallsizes.
Placestsonholder.
RightFrontWithsmallercirneedleCO67(71,73,77)sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p1tbl,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row1:(RS)K1,k2tog,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1—1stdec’d.
Row2:P1,k1,p1tbl,k1;repfromtolast3sts,ssk,p1—1stdec’d.
Row3:K1,k2tog,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1—1stdec’d.
Row4:P1,k1,p1tbl,k1;repfromtolast3sts,ssk,p1—1stdec’d.
Row5:K1,k2tog,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1—62(66,68,72)stsrem.
Row6:Purlandatthesametimedec6(7,6,7)stsevenlyspaced—56(59,62,65)stsrem.
ChangetolargerneedleandStst.
ShapeCenterFront
Note:Side,centerfront,armhole,andneckshapingareworkedsimultaneously;
readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statcenterfrontinthismannereveryRSrow8moretimes.
[Repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven]4times.
Repdecrow,work5rowseven,thenrepdecrow—15centerfrontststotaldec’d.
Work15(17,19,21)rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workRLIinnextst,worktoend—1stinc’d.
Work9rowseven.
Repincrow,thenwork5rowseven.Repthelast6rows4moretimes.
RSIncRow:(RS)Repincrow—1stinc’d.
WSIncRow:(WS)Purltolast2sts,workRLIpurlwiseinnextst,p1—1stinc’d.
Repthelast2rowsonce,thenrepWSincrowoncemore—11centerfrontststotalinc’d.
ShapeNeckDecrow:(RS)Sl1kwise,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Purl1row.
Repthelast2rows19moretimes—20neckststotaldec’d.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasuressameasback.
BOallsts.
ShapeSideAtthesametimeworkingcenterfront,neck,andarmholeshapingasspecified,
shapethesideasfoll:
Work8rowsinStstabovelowerrib.
Decrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work5rowseven.Repthelast6rows4moretimes,thenworkdecrowonceagain—6sideststotaldec’d.
Work15(17,19,21)rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,workRLIinnextst,k1—1stinc’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—3moresidestsinc’d.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13½(13¾,14,14¼)"(34.5[35,35.5,36]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholeAtarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO5sts0(0,0,1)time,thenBO4stsonce,thenBO3sts0(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,0)time—6(9,12,15)armholestsBO.
Decrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rowsoncemore.
[Repdecrow,work11rowseven]2times,thenrepdecrowonceagain—5morearmholestsdec’d.
Workarmholeedgeevenuntilneckshapingiscomplete—18stsremafterallcenterfront,side,armhole,andneckshapingiscomplete.
LeftFrontWithsmallercirneedleCO41(45,47,51)sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p1tbl,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1,k1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,p1,M1(seeGlossary),k1—1stinc’d.
Row2:P1,M1,p1,k1,p1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,k1,p1—1stinc’d.
Row3:K1,p1,k1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,p1,M1,k1—1stinc’d.
Row4:P1,M1,p1,k1,p1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,k1,p1—1stinc’d.
Row5:K1,p1,k1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,p1,M1,k1—46(50,52,56)sts.
Row6:Purlandatthesametimedec4(5,4,5)stsevenlyspaced—42(45,48,51)stsrem.
ShapeCenterFront
Note:Side,centerfront,armhole,andneckshapingareworkedsimultaneously;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
ChangetolargerneedleandStst.
Incrow:(RS)Worktolastst,M1,k1—1stinc’d.
Inc1stinthismannereveryRSrow8moretimes.
[Repincrow,thenwork3rowseven]4times.
[Repincrow,thenwork5rowseven]3times.
Repincrow,thenwork11(13,15,17)rowseven—17centerfrontststotalinc’d.
Decrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work5rowseven.Repthelast6rows4moretimes—5centerfrontststotaldec’d.
Work1RSrow.
ShapeNeckAtneckedge(begofWSrows)andworkingpurlwise,BO4sts3times,thenBO3stsonce,thenBO2sts3times—21neckstsBO.
Decrow:(WS)Sl1,p1,psso,purltoend—1stdec’d.
Work1roweven.Repthelast2rows5moretimes,then[repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven]4times—10moreneckstsdec’d.
ShapeSideAtthesametimeworkingcenterfront,neck,andarmholeshapingasspecified,shapethesideasfoll:
Work8rowsinStstabovelowerrib.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Work5rowseven.Repthelast6rows4moretimes,thenworkdecrowoncemore—6sidestsdec’dtotal.
Work15(17,19,21)rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,LLIinnextst,k1—1stinc’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—3moresidestsinc’d.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13½(13¾,14,14¼)"(34.5[35,35.5,36]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholeAtarmholeedge(begofRSrows),BO5sts0(0,0,1)time,thenBO4stsonce,
thenBO3sts0(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,0)time—6(9,12,15)armholestsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rowsoncemore.
[Repdecrow,work11rowseven]2times,thenrepdecrowonceagain—5morearmholestsdec’d.
Workarmholeedgeevenuntilneckshapingiscomplete—9stsrem.
BOallsts.
FrontCableStripWithsmallerneedle,CO10sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Continshort-rows(seeGlossary)asfoll:
Short-Row1:WithRSfacing,k1,p1,k2,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p2,k1,p1.
Short-Row2:WithRSfacingandworkingwraptogwithwrappedstwhenyoucometoit,k1,p1,k4,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p4,k1,p1.
Short-Row3:WithRSfacingandworkingwraptogwithwrappedstwhenyoucometoit,k1,p1,k6,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p6,k1,p1.
Nextrow:(RScablerow)K1,p1,sl3stsontocnandholdinbackofwork,k3,thenk3fromcn,p1,k1.
Work5rowseveninpattasestablished.
Maintaining6-rowcablepatt,repthelast6rowsuntilpiecemeasures15½(15¾,16,16¼)"(39.5[40,40.5,41.5]cm)fromCO,measuredalongrightedgeofstrip.
Nextrow:(RS)Sl1purlwisewithyarninback(pwisewyb),p1,work6stsas
established,p1,k1.
Continpattasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures16½(16¾,17,17¼)”(42[42.5,43,44]cm)fromCO,measuredalongleftedgeofstrip,endingwithaRSrow.
Nextrow:(WS)Sl1pwisewithyarninfront(wyf,)k1,p6,k1,p1.
Note:Followingtheslippedstontheright-handedgeofthecableband,whentransferringyarntooppositesideinpreparationforthesecondst,pullsnuglytomaintainslipped-stintegrityalongtheedge.
Slippingthefirststofeveryrow,continpattasestablisheduntilpiecemeasuresabout22½(22¾,23,23¼)"(54.5[58,58.5,59]cm)fromCO,measuredalongleftedgeofstripwhenslightlystretched.
BOallstsinpatt.
LeftFrontNeckEdgeCableStripWithsmallerneedle,CO10sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1,k6,p1,k1.
Row2:Sl1pwisewyf,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row3:(cablerow)K1,p1,sl3stsontocnandholdinbackofwork,k3,thenk3fromcn,p1,k1.
Rows4,5,6,7,and8:Workeveninpattasestablished.
RepRows3–8untilpiecemeasuresabout10(10,10¼,10½)"(25.5[25.5,26,26.5]cm)fromCO,orlongenoughtofitaroundleftfrontneckedgewhenslightlystretched.
BOallsts.
RightBackKeyholeCableStrip
Note:Thisstripwillattachtotheleftshoulder.
Withsmallerneedle,CO10sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1,k6,p1,k1.
Row2:Sl1pwisewyf,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row3:(cablerow)K1,p1,sl3stsontocnandholdtofrontofwork,k3,thenk3fromcn,p1,k1.
Rows4,5,6,7,and8:Workeveninpattasestablished.
RepRows3–8twomoretimes.
*Nextrow:RepRow3.
Nextrow:P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Workshort-rowsasfoll:
Short-Row1:(countsasRows5and6ofcablepatt)WithRSfacing,k1,p1,k6,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p6,k1,p1.
Short-Row2:(countsasRows7and8ofcablepatt)WithRSfacing,k1,p1,k3,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p3,k1,p1.
Repfrom*3moretimes.
[RepRow3,thenwork5rowseven]3times.
RepRow3,thenwork1WSrow.
Nextrow:(RS)Sl1pwisewyb,p1,work6stsasestablished,p1,k1.
DiscontinueslippingfirststonWSrows(purlfirststinsteadtoendofcablestrip)andcontinpattuntilpiecemeasuresabout11½(11½,11¾,12)"(29[29,
30,30.5]cm)fromCO,orlongenoughtofitaroundrightedgeofkeyholeandleftbackneckwhenslightlystretched,measuredalongright-handedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
AtbegofRSrows,BO3sts2times,thenBOrem4sts.
LeftBackKeyholeCableStrip
Note:Thisstripwillattachtotherightshoulder.
Withsmallerneedle,CO10sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row1:(RS)Sl1kwise,p1,k6,p1,k1.
Row2:P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Row3:(cablerow)Sl1kwise,p1,sl3stsontocnandholdinbackofwork,k3,thenk3fromcn,p1,k1.
Rows4,5,6,7,and8:Workeveninpattasestablished.
RepRows3–8twomoretimes.
*Nextrow:RepRow3.Workshort-rowsasfoll:
Short-Row1:(countsasRows4and5ofcablepatt)WithWSfacing,p1,k1,p6,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,k6,p1,k1.
Short-Row2:(countsasRows6and7ofcablepatt)WithWSfacing,p1,k1,p3,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,k3,p1,k1.
Nextrow:P1,k1,p6,k1,p1.
Repfrom*3moretimes.
[RepRow3,thenwork5rowseven]3times,thenrepRow3again.
Nextrow:(WS)Sl1pwisewyf,k1,p6,k1,p1.
DiscontinueslippingfirststonRSrows(knitthisstinsteadtoendofcablestrip),continpattasestablisheduntilpiecemeasuresabout11½(11½,11¾,12)"(29[29,30,30.5]cm)fromCO,orlongenoughtofitaroundleftedgeofkeyholeandrightbackneckwhenslightlystretched,measuredalongleft-handedgeandendingwithaRSrow.
AtbegofWSrows,BO3sts2times,thenBOrem4sts.
FinishingUsingthewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
AttachCableStrips
Note:Seeillustrationsforassemblydirections.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedleandusingamattressst(seeGlossary),sewleftbackkeyholecabletoleftback,aligningleftedgeofstriptorightedge
ofkeyhole,andrightedgeofstriptoV-neckedgeofrightbacksothatendofstripisevenwithrightbackshoulder(Figure1).
Sewrightbackkeyholecabletorightback,aligningrightedgeofstriptoleftedgeofkeyhole,overlappingleftbackkeyholecable,andaligningleftedgeofstriptoV-neckedgeofleftback,sothatendofstripisevenwithleftbackshoulder(Figure2).
Sewcenterfrontcablestriptorightfrontcurvededge,begathemandendingatbaseofV-neck(Figure3).
Sewleftfrontcablestriptoleftfront,begatcenterneckedgeandendingatshoulder(Figure4).
Sewcenterfrontstriptocenterleftfrontedge,begathemandendingattopedgeofleftfrontcablestrip(Figure5).
SeamsWithRSfacingtogandworkingfromtheWS,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinfronttobackatshoulders,catchingtheendofthecenterfrontcablestripalongtheleftshoulderseam(Figure6).
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedleandusingthemattressst,sewsideseams.
Steamseamstosetsts.
ArmbandsWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit78(86,92,100)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.BOallstspwise.
Weaveinlooseends.Steamarmbandstosetsts.
TailoredPleats
TheclassicV-neckpullovergetsacontemporarytweakinthissophisticatedtop.Featuringashapedwaistamplifiedwithtriangularinvertedpleats,thisstreamlineddesignhasagracefulflarearoundthehemlineandcuffs.Arolledstockinette-stitchcollarframestheV-neck,andabitofribatthebackneckencouragesittostandup.Workedinanexquisitesilktapeyarn,thistopistheultimateinsmoothtextureandsoftdrape.Anaccentofcoloratthehemandcuffsprovidesstylishbutunderstatedcontrast.Wearitaloneorunderasuitjacketfortheoffice,orwithabeadedChanelfortheopera.
FINISHEDSIZE
About32(34,36,38,40,42,44,46)"(81.5[86.5,91.5,96.5,101.5,106.5,112,117]cm)bustcircumference.
Pullovershownmeasures36"(91.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:SkacelSchulanaSeda-Mar(88%silk,12%nylon;180yd[165m]/50g):#26gold(MC),7(7,7,7,7,8,8,9)balls;#12darkrust(CC),1ball.
NEEDLES
SizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Stitchholders;markers(m);cableneedle(cn);sizeG/4(4mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inStst.
STITCHGUIDE
ButtonStitch:Insertrightneedletipbetween2ndand3rdstsonleftneedle,drawthroughaloopknitwiseandplaceontoleftneedletippurlwise,thenknitintothebackofthisloop,slthenext2stsontorightneedletip,passloopstoverthe2slippedstsandofftheneedle,adjustfortension,beingcarefulnottopullthewrapstootightly.
1/1RCP:Sl1stontocnandholdinbackofwork,k1,thenp1fromcn.
1/1LCP:Sl1stontocnandholdinfrontofwork,p1,thenk1fromcn.
Back
Note:Sideshapingisintroducedatthesametimeasgorepleatsareworked;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionbeforeproceeding.
WithCC,CO139(145,145,151,151,157,157,163)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
ChangetoMCandknit1RSrow.
Set-uprow:(WS)[P1,k1]16(17,17,18,18,19,19,20)times,p1,placemarker(pm),k20,pm;repfromonce,[p1,k1]16(17,17,18,18,19,19,20)times,p1.
Row1:(RS)K33(35,35,37,37,39,39,41),slipmarker(slm),p20,slm;repfromonce,knittoend.
Row2:P33(35,35,37,37,39,39,41),slm,k20,slm;repfromonce,purltoend.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore.
ShapeGorePleatsDecrow:(RS)*K33(35,35,37,37,39,39,41),slm,p2tog,purlto2stsbeforenextm,ssp(seeGlossary),slm;repfrom*once,knittoend—4stsdec’d.
Work3rowseveninpattasestablished.Repthelast4rows8moretimes—2purlstswillremattopofgorepleat.
Work4rowsevenasestablished.
Nextrow:(RS)Knitto1stbeforem,ssk(removemtoworkthedec,thenreplacembeforethedecontherightneedle),k2tog(removemtoworkthedec,thenreplacemafterthedeconrightneedle)—2stsbetweenmarkers,knitto1stbeforem;repfromtoonce,knittoend—4stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Nextrow:(RS)*Knittom,removem,workbuttonst(seeStitchGuide)overnext2sts;repfrom*once,knittoend.
Atthesametimeafterworking6rowspasttheset-uprow,shapesidesasfoll:
*Decrow:K1,ssk,workasestablishedtolast3sts,k2tog,k1—2sidestsdec’d.
Work5rowseven,repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven;repfrom*3(3,3,3,1,2,0,0)moretime(s)—16(16,16,16,8,12,4,4)stsdec’datsideedges.
Workdecrow0(0,0,0,1,0,1,1)moretime—16(16,16,16,10,12,6,6)ststotaldec’datsideedge;83(89,89,95,101,105,111,117)stsremaftergorepleatandsideshapingiscomplete.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures9"(23cm)fromCO.
Incrow:K1,M1L(seeGlossary),knittolastst,M1R(seeGlossary),k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7(9,5,5,5,5,5,5)rowseven.Repthelast8(10,6,6,6,6,6,6)rows2(1,4,4,4,4,4,4)moretime(s)—89(93,99,105,111,115,121,127)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures14(15,15,15,15½,15½,15½,15½)"(35.5[38,38,38,39.5,39.5,39.5,39.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO4stsatbegofnext0(0,2,2,2,2,2,2)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,4,4,6,8,6)rows—79(83,81,83,89,89,91,101)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.Repthelast2rows2(3,1,1,2,1,1,4)moretime(s)—73(75,77,79,83,85,87,91)stsrem.
WorkeveninStstuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm).
Placestsonwaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworkasforbackuntilpiecemeasures14(15,15,15,15½,15½,15½,15½)"(35.5[38,38,38,39.5,39.5,39.5,39.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow—89(93,99,105,111,115,121,127)sts.
ShapeArmholesandNeck
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Placeopen-ringmarkeroncentersttodenoteplacementofV-neckshaping.
Toshapearmholes,BOateacharmholeedgeasfoll:4stsatbegofnext0(0,1,1,1,1,1,1)row,thenBO3stsonetime,thenBO2sts1(1,1,2,2,3,4,3)times—5(5,9,11,11,13,15,15)stsBOateacharmhole.
SIZES32(34,36,38,40)"ONLYDecrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
ALLSIZES
Conttodecafterdividingforneckasfoll:
Leftfrontdecrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,worktoend—1stdec’d.
Rightfrontdecrow:(RS)worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows1(2,0,0,1,1,1,4)moretime(s)tocompletearmholeshaping—3(4,2,2,3,2,2,5)morestsdec’dateacharmhole.
Atthesametimeworkthecenterfrontevenfor5rows,thencontasfoll:
Row1:(WS)Purlto1stbeforemarkedcenterst,pm,p1,p2togremovingm(centerstdec’d)andpmafterdec,purltoend—1stdec’d.
Row2:(RS)Workingarmholeshapingasestablished,knittom,slm,work
buttonstovernext2sts,slm,worktoend.
Row3:Purltom,slm,k2,slm,purltoend.
Row4:Workto2stsbeforem,1/1RCP(seeStitchGuide),slm,p2,slm,1/1LCP(seeStitchGuide),worktoend.
Row5:Purlto2stsbeforem,p1,k1,slm,k2(centersts),slm,k1,p1,purltoend.
Row6:(dividingrow)Workto1stbeforem,pm,usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO1st,removem,p2—1stinc’donleftfront;placeremstsonholdertoworklaterforrightfront.
LEFTFRONT
Notes:TheyokeisworkedinStst,whilethecollarisworkedinrevStst.Inthefollowingsequence,2stsarecrossedevery4rows6times,theneveryotherrow7times.Atthesametime,onalternatingRS4-rowrepeats,usethebackward-
loopmethod(seeGlossary)toinc1statneckedge(theseinc’dstswillbeincorporatedintotherevStstcollar)asfoll:
Row1:(WS)K3(collarsts),pm,purltoend.
Row2:Knitto2stsbeforemarker,1/1RCP,pmbetween2stsof1/1RCP,purltoend—1collarstadded.
Row3:knittom,slm,purltoend.
Row4:Knittom,slm,usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO1st,purltoend—1collarststinc’d.
Row5:Knittom,slm,purltoend.
RepRows2–5fourmoretimes,thenrepRows2and3oncemore,incorporatingthepurlofthecrossedstsandtheinc’dstsintotherevStstcollar—14revStstcollarsts.
Nextrow:(RS)Knitto2stsbeforemarker,1/1RCP,pmbetween2stsof1/1RCP,usethebackwardloopmethodtoCO1st,purltoend—1stinc’d;2collarstsaddedtotal.
Nextrow:Knittom,slm,purltoend.
Nextrow:Knitto2stsbeforemarker,1/1RCP,pmbetween2stsof1/1RCP,purltoend.
Nextrow:Knittom,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast4rowsoncemore,thenrepthelast2rowsonceagain—44(45,46,47,49,50,51,53)stsrem:21revStstcollarsts;23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)Ststyokests.
Workevenasestablisheduntilarmholemeasures7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm).Place21collarstsontowasteyarn;placeremyokestsonanotherholder.
RIGHTFRONT
Placeheldrightyokestsontoneedle.WithRSfacing,joinyarntoneckedge.
Row1:(RS)P2(collarsts),usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO1st,pm,knittoend—1collarstinc’d.
Row2:(WS)Purltom,slm,knittoend.
Row3:Purltom,removem,1/1LCP(seeStitchGuide),pmbetween2stsof1/1LCP,knittoend—1collarstadded.
Row4:Purltom,slm,knittoend.
Row5:Purltom,usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO1st,slm,knittoend—1collarstinc’d.
RepRows2–5fourmoretimes,thenrepRows2–4oncemore,incorporatingthepurlofthecrossedstsandtheinc’dstsintotherevStstcollar—14revStstcollarsts.
Nextrow:(RS)Purltom,usethebackward-loopmethodtoCO1st,removem,1/1LCP,pmbetween2stsof1/1LCP,knittoend—2collarstsadded.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,removem,1/1LCP,pmbetween2stsof1/1LCP,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,knittoend.
Repthelast4rowsoncemore,thenrepthelast2rowsonceagain—44(45,46,47,49,50,51,53)stsrem:21revStstcollarsts,23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)Ststyokests.
Workevenasestablisheduntilarmholemeasures7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm).
Place21collarstsontowasteyarn—23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)yokestsremonneedle.Donotcutyarn.
JoinShouldersandExtendCollarPlaceheldbackstsontooneneedleandholdthisneedleparalleltotheneedleholding23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)rightfrontstssothatRSoffabricface
tog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBO23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)stsfromeachneedletogforrightshoulder.K27backneckstssingly,thenBOrem23(24,25,26,28,29,30,32)backststogwithheldleftfrontstsforleftshoulder.
Placeeachsetof21collarstsontosameneedleholding27backnecksts—69ststotal.
Withyarnstillattachedtorightfront,contasfoll:
Row1:(WSofcollar)P21,[k1,p1]13times,k1,p21.
Row2:(RS)K21,[p1,k1]13times,p1,k21.
Repthese2rowsuntilcollarmeasures1½"(3.8cm),endingwithaWSrow.
WithRSfacing,BO21stsknitwise,thenBO27inribpatt,thenBOrem21stsknitwise.
SleevesWithCC,CO64stsforallsizes.ChangetoMCandknit1RSrow.
Set-uprow:(WS)[P1,k1]12times,p1,pm,k14,pm,[p1,k1]12times,p1.
Row1:K25,slm,p14,slm,knittoend.
Row2:P25,pm,k14,pm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore.
ShapeGorePleat
Note:Bellsleeveistaperedatthesametimeasgorepleatisworked;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionbeforeproceeding.
Nextrow:(RS)*Knittom,slm,p2tog,purlto2stsbeforenextm,ssp(seeGlossary),slm,knittoend—2stsdec’d.
Work3rowsevenasestablished.Repthelast4rows5moretimes—12stsdec’d;2purlstsremattopofgorepleat.
Nextrow:(RS)Knitto1stbeforefirstm,pm,ssk(removingmtoworkthedec),k2tog(removingmtoworkthedec),pm,knittoend—2stsdec’d;2stsbetweenmarkers.
Purl1WSrow.
Nextrow:(RS)Knittom,slm,workbuttonstovernext2sts,slm,knittoend.
Atthesametimework8rowspasttheset-uprow,thenshapesidesasfoll:
Decrow:(RS)K1,ssk,workrowwithpleatshapingtolast3sts,k2tog,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rows2moretimes—6ststotaldec’datsideedges;44stsremafterallgorepleatandbellshapingiscomplete.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures5"(12.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,M1L,knittolast2sts,M1R,k1—2stsinc’d.
Contforyoursizeasfoll:
SIZES32(34,36)ONLYWork5rowseven.Repthelast6rows12(13,14)moretimes—70(72,74)sts.
SIZES(38,40)ONLY[Work5rowseven,repincrow,thenwork3rowseven,repincrow]7(8times),work5rowseven,repincrowoncemore—(76,80)sts.
SIZES(42,44,46)ONLYWork3rowseven.Repthelast4rows18(20,21)moretimes—(82,86,88)sts.
ALLSIZESWorkevenuntilsleevemeasures16(17,18,18,18,18,18,18)"(40.5[43,45.5,45.5,45.5,45.5,45.5,45.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO4stsatbegofnext0(2,2,2,2,2,2,2)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll4(2,2,2,2,4,4,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,2,2,0,2,2)rows—54(54,56,58,62,62,62,64)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow10(10,10,11,11,11,11,11)moretimes—32(32,34,34,38,38,38,40)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,2,0)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll4(4,2,2,6,6,6,8)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(0,2,2,0,0,0,0)rows—16stsrem.
BOallsts.
FinishingUsethewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary)toblockallpiecestomeasurements,allowingcollartolayflatatbackneckandencouragingtheV-necktorollat
fronts.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.LightlysteamseamsfromWStosetsts.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseams,matchingcentersleevetoshoulderseamandeasingfullnessatsleevetop.Withcrochethookandworkingfromthebodysideoftheseam,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevetobody.Lightlysteamarmholeseamstosetsts.
Weaveinlooseends.LightlysteamseamsfromWS,andfinger-presstoreduceanybulk.
KnowYourYarn:SilkSilkisalustrousfiberwithluxuriousdrape.Theshimmeringappearanceresultsfromtheprism-likestructurethatrefractsincominglightatdifferentangles.Thesmoothfilamentwearspleasantlynexttotheskin.Goodmoistureabsorbencymakessilkcomfortableinbothsummerandwinter.
Thecocoonofthemulberrysilkwormproducesafinethreadofnaturalproteinwithhightensilestrength.Silkisanon-elasticfiber,butwovenintoatapeyarn,silkhastheflexibilityvaluabletoknitters.Theelaborateproductionprocessmakesforexpensivefabricsandyarns.SilkissecondtononeastheFiberofLuxury.
RuffleShell
Softnessmeetssophisticationinthisasymmetricallyruffledshellwithangledarmholesthatrevealshapelyshoulders.Workedinatapeyarnthatcombinesbothmatteandshinythreads,thismostly-stockinette-stitchblouseisaccentedwithabitofopenworkribattheloweredgeandagenerousgarter-stitchruffle(workedseparatelyandshapedwithshort-rows).Thisversatiletopcanrunthegamutbetweensportyandclassic—pairitwithapencilskirtfortheexecutiveoffice,thenwithapairofdistressedjeansforanightatthemovies.
FINISHEDSIZE
About33(35,37,39,41,43)"(84[89,94,99,104,109]cm)bustcircumference.Shellshownmeasures35"(89cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:SkacelSchulanaNocita(78%cotton,22%nylon;125yd[115m]/50g):#13ivory,6(6,7,7,8,8)balls.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.8(5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.7(4.5mm):16"(40cm)cir.
Ruffle:sizeU.S.9(5.5mm)straightorcir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
20stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BackWithsmallestneedle,CO86(92,98,102,106,112)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Eyeletrow:(WS)P1,yo,p2tog;repfromtolastst,yo,p1—87(93,99,103,107,113)sts.
Row1:K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Row2:P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
RepRows1and2oncemore.
Changetomiddle-sizeneedleandworkeveninStst(knitRSrows;purlWSrows)untilpiecemeasures3(3,3½,3½,4,4)"(7.5[7.5,9,9,10,10]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work5rowseven.
Repthelast6rows4moretimes—77(83,89,93,97,103)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures9(9,9½,9½,9½,9½)"(23[23,24,24,24,24]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures11(11,11½,11½,12,12)"(28[28,29,29,30.5,30.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Repincrow—81(87,93,97,101,107)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13½(13½,14,14½,15,16)"(34.5[34.5,35.5,37,38,40.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholes
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
BO4(4,5,5,5,6)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3(3,3,3,3,4)stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO2(2,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2rows—63(69,73,75,79,81)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work3rowseven.
Repthelast4rows2(3,3,3,4,4)moretimes.
[Repdecrow,thenwork5rowseven]4(4,5,5,5,5)times—49(53,55,57,59,61)stsrem.
Contevenuntilarmholesmeasure6(6,6½,6½,7,7)"(15[15,16.5,16.5,18,18]cm).
ShapeNeckMarkcenter21(21,21,21,23,23)sts.
WithRSfacingandconttoworkarmholeshapingasestablished,knittomarkedsts,joinnewyarnandBOcenter21(21,21,21,23,23)sts,knittoend—14(16,17,18,18,19)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO7(7,8,8,8,8)stsateachneckedgeonce—7(9,9,10,10,11)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworksameasbackuntilpiecemeasures13½(13½,14,14½,15,16)"(34.5[34.5,35.5,37,38,40.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholes
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
BO4(4,5,5,5,6)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3(3,3,3,3,4)stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO2(2,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2rows—63(69,73,75,79,81)stsrem.
Work3rowseven.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Repthelast4rows2(3,3,3,4,4)moretimes.
[Repdecrow,thenwork5rowseven]4(4,5,5,5,5)times—14(16,18,18,20,20)stsdec’d.
Atthesametimewhenarmholesmeasure5(5,5½,5½,6,6)"(12.5[12.5,14,14,15,15]cm),shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckMarkcenter15(15,15,15,17,17)sts.
WithRSfacingandconttoworkarmholeshapingasestablished,knittomarkedstsjoinnewyarnandBOcenter15(15,15,15,17,17)sts,knittoend—17(19,20,21,21,22)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO4(4,5,5,5,5)stsateachneckedgeonce,thenBO2sts2times—9(11,11,12,12,13)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)Forleftneckedge,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1;forrightneck:k1,k2tog,knittoend.
Purl1WSrow.Repdecrowoncemore—7(9,9,10,10,11)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
RuffleWithlargestneedle,CO17sts.Knit1row.
Workaseriesofshort-row(seeGlossary)trianglesononeedgeasfoll:
Rows1and3:Sl1pwisewithyarninfront(wyf),knittoend.
Rows2and4:Knit.
Row5:(short-row)WithRSfacing,sl1pwisewyf,k3,wrapnextstitch,turnworksoWSisfacing,knittoend.
Row6:(short-row)WithRSfacing,sl1pwisewyf,k6,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,knittoend.
Row7:(short-row)WithRSfacing,sl1pwisewyf,k9,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,knittoend.
Row8:(short-row)WithRSfacing,sl1pwisewyf,k12,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,knittoend.
Row9:RepRow7.
Row10:RepRow6.
Row11:RepRow5.
RepRows1–11untilpiecemeasuresabout20(20,21,22,23,24)"(51[51,53.5,56,58.5,61]cm)fromCO,measuredalongnon-ruffleedge,endingwithWSRow2.
Begattheruffleedge,BOallsts.
FinishingUsethewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary)toblockpiecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
SeamsPlace7(9,9,10,10,11)heldrightbackstsontooneneedleand7(9,9,10,10,11)heldrightfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtogandusethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOststogforrightshoulder.Repforleftshoulder.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stseam
allowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams.
ArmbandsWithsmallestcirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit40(41,42,43,45,47)stsevenlyspacedtoshoulderseamand40(41,42,43,45,47)stsbackdowntobaseofarmhole—80(82,84,86,90,94)ststotal.
Placemarker(pm)andjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1rnd,thenknit1rnd.
BOallstspwise.
NeckbandWithsmallestcirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatleftshoulderseam,pickupandknit43(43,45,45,47,47)stsevenlyspacedacrossfrontneckand39(39,41,41,43,43)stsacrossbackneck—82(82,86,86,90,90)ststotal.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1rnd,thenknit1rnd.
BOallstspwise.
AttachRufflePininsideedgeofruffletofrontasshowninphoto,withtopofruffle¾(2cm)fromcentertowardrightarmholeandformingagentleS-curvedownthefronttoendatbottomedgeabout6(6,6½,6¾,7,7½)"(15[15,16.5,17,18,19]cm)fromleftsideseam(aboutone-thirdofthewidthoftheloweredge).
Threadyarnonatapestryneedle.InserttapestryneedlefromWSofgarment,leavinga6"(15cm)tail.WorkingfromRSofgarment,usewhipstitches(seeGlossary)tocapturejusttheedgeoftheruffleinplaceasinvisiblyaspossible.
Weaveinlooseends.Spritzwithwatertosetseams.
Kaleidoscope
Withadecidedlyethnicflavor,thisslightlyA-linejacketfeaturesadeepU-neckline,halfcollar,andminimalbuttonoverlap.Aslip-stitchtexturepattern,workedthroughoutthebodyandthesleevecuffs,showcasesthehandpaintedyarntobestadvantage.Theedgingsandribbedcollarareworkedinanaccentcolorthathelpstodefinethepartsandunifythewhole.Withaneasyfit,thisjacketisidealforlayeringoverwhateverstylestrikesyourfancy:narrow-legpants,apencilskirt,camisole,teeshirt,longgauzyskirt,oralittlesheathdress.
FINISHEDSIZE
About37(40¼,44,47¾)"(94[102,112,121.5]cm)bustcircumference,buttoned.
Jacketshownmeasures40¼"(102cm).
YARN
DKweight(#2Fine).
Shownhere:MistiAlpaca(83%PeruvianPimacotton,17%silk;327yd[300m]/100g):CSP12blue-greenhandpaint(MC),4(5,5,6)skeins;TPS03midnightbluetonal(CC),1skein.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:twosizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;markers(m);sizeF/5(3.75mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle;three1"(2.5cm)buttons.
GAUGE
22stsand40rows=4"(10cm)inslipstpattonlargerneedle.
22stand27rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
STITCHGUIDE
Slip-StitchPattern(multipleof4sts+1)
Row1:(WS)Purl.
Row2:(RS)K1,sl1purlwisewithyarninback(pwisewyb),sl1purlwisewithyarninfront(pwisewyf),sl1pwisewyb,k1;repfrom.
Row3:P1,sl3pwisewyb,yo,p1;repfrom.
Row4:Knit,droppingallyo’soffneedletofrontofwork.
Row5:Purl.
Row6:K1,sl1pwisewyb,insertneedlefromfrontundertheloosestrandandknitnextsttogetherwiththisstrand,sl1pwisewyb,k1;repfrom.
Row7:P1,sl1pwisewyf,p1,sl1pwisewyf,k1;repfrom,endinglastrepp1insteadofk1.
Row8:Knit.
Row9:Purl.
Row10:K1,sl1pwisewyf,k1;repfrom.
RepRows1–10forpatt.
BackWithMCandlargerneedle,CO105(117,129,141)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row2:K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
BegwithRow1(WS),workeveninslipstpatt(seeStitchGuide)untilpiecemeasures3"(7.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:K2tog,workinpatttolast2sts,ssk—2stsdec’d.
Workeven,keepingcontinuityofpattasmuchasyoucan(workextrastsinstst),repdecrowat6"(15cm),9"(23cm),and12"(30.5cm)fromCO—97(109,121,133)stsrem.
Contevenuntilpiecemeas15(15,16,17)"(38[38,40.5,43]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesKeepinginpatt,BO4stsatbegofnext2(2,4,6)rows—89(101,105,109)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow6(8,8,8)times—77(85,89,93)stsrem.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholesmeasureabout7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithanyWSrowexceptRow5ofpatt.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
RightFrontWithMCandlargerneedle,CO57(61,65,69)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row2:K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
BegwithRow1,workeveninslipstpattuntilpiecemeasures3"(7.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)Workinpatttolast2sts,ssk—1stdec’d.
Keepinginpattasmuchaspossible(workextrastsinStst),repdecrowwhenpiecemeasures6"(15cm),9"(23cm),and12"(30.5cm)fromCO—53(57,61,65)stsrem.
Contevenuntilpiecemeasures15(15,16,17)"(38[38,40.5,43]cm)fromCO,endingwithRSrow.
ShapeArmholeandNeck
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedatthesametimeasarmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Atarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO4sts1(1,2,3)time(s)—49(53,53,53)
stsrem.
Dec1statendofeveryRSrow6(8,8,8)timesandatthesametimewhenpiecemeasures17½(17½,18½,19½)"(44.5[44.5,47,49.5]cm)fromCO,shapeneckasfoll:
Atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO4stsonce,thenBO2sts3(4,4,4)times—10(12,12,12)stsBO.
Dec1statneckedgeeveryRSrow11times—22stsremwhenallarmholeandneckdecshavebeencompleted.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholesmeasureabout7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithanyWSrowexceptRow5ofpatt.
Placestsonwasteyarnholder.
LeftFrontWithMCandlargerneedle,CO57(61,65,69)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row2:K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
BegwithRow1,workeveninslipstpattuntilpiecemeaures3"(7.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K2tog,workinpatttoend—1stdec’d.
Keepinginpattasmuchaspossible(workextrastsinStst),repdecrowwhenpiecemeasures6"(15cm),9"(23cm),and12"(30.5cm)fromCO—53(57,61,65)stsrem.
Contevenuntilpiecemeasures15(15,16,17)"(38[38,40.5,43]cm)fromCO,endingwithWSrow.
ShapeArmholeandNeck
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedatthesametimeasarmholeshapingisin
progress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Atarmholeedge(begofRSrows),BO4sts1(1,2,3)time(s)—49(53,53,53)stsrem.
Dec1statendofeveryRSrow6(8,8,8)timesandatthesametimewhenpiecemeasures17½(17½,18½,19½)"(44.5[44.5,47,49.5]cm)fromCO,shapeneckasfoll:
Atneckedge(begofWSrows),BO4stsonce,thenBO2sts3(4,4,4)times—10(12,12,12)stsBO.
Dec1statneckedgeeveryRSrow11times—22stsremwhenallarmholeandneckdecshavebeencompleted.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholesmeasureabout7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithanyWSrowexceptRow5ofpatt.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
SleevesWithMCandlargerneedle,CO49(49,53,57)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row2:K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
WorkRows1–10ofslipstpatt3times—piecemeasuresabout3"(7.5cm)fromCO.
Purl1WSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast
2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work5rowseven.
Repthelast6rows12(13,14,14)times—75(77,83,87)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures16(16,17,17½)"(40.5[40.5,43,44.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO4stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll10(10,12,12)rows—47(49,51,55)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow5(5,5,6)moretimes—35(37,39,41)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext8(10,10,10)rows—19(17,19,21)stsrem.
BOallsts.
Finishing
LeftFrontTabPlacketMarkcenterleftfront6"(15cm)downfromneckedge.WithCC,smallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatneckedge,pickupandknit31stsevenlyspacedtomarker.Knit7rows.
Placestsontoholder.
RightFrontTabPlacketMarkcenterrightfront6"(15cm)downfromneckedge.WithCC,smallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatmarkedposition,pickupandknit31stsevenlyspacedtoneckedge.Knit3rows.
Buttonholerow:(RS)K5,*work4-stone-rowbuttonhole(seeGlossary),k4(5
stsonrightneedletipafterbuttonhole);repfrom*,endinglastrepk3insteadofk4.
Knit3rows.
Placestsontoholder.
Wet-block(seeGlossary)piecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace77(85,89,93)heldbackstsontooneneedleand22heldrightfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.WithMCandlargerneedle,usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBO22ststogforrightshoulder.BOnext33(41,45,49)stssinglyforbackneck.Place22heldleftfrontstsontosecondneedleandusethethree-needlemethodtoBOststogforleftshoulder.
ArmbandsWthCC,smallerneedle,andRSfacing,pickupandknit84(88,94,106)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.Donotjoin.Knit2rows.BOallsts.
FrontEdgeBorderandCollarWithCC,smallerneedle,andbegatlowerrightfrontcenteredge,pickupandknit60(60,65,70)stsevenlyspacedtobaseoftab,5stsacrossloweredgeoftab,31stsalongverticaledgeoftab,5stsacrosstopedgeoftab,45(48,48,48)stsalongrightneckandatthesametimeplaceamarkerafterthe20th(23rd,23rd,23rd)st,41stsacrossbackneck,45(48,48,48)stsalongleftnecktotabandatthesametimeplaceamarkerafterthe25thst,5stsacrosstopedgeoftab,31stsalongverticaledgeoftab,5stsacrossloweredgeoftab,and60(60,65,70)stsalongleftcenterfront—333(339,349,359)ststotal.
Usesecondsmallerneedletoknitbackandforth,usingbothcirneedlestoaccommodateallsts.
Row1:(WS)Knit.
Row2:Knittoinsidecorneroftab,k2tog,knittooutsidecorneroftab,M1(seeGlossary),knittonextoutsidecorner,M1,knittorightshoulderseam,knitacrossbackneckandatthesametimedec4stsevenlyspaced,knittonextoutsidecorner,M1,knittonextoutsidecorner,M1,knittoinsidecorner,k2tog,knittoend—331(337,347,357)stsrem.
Row3:BOtofirstm,removem,BO1st,knittonextm,removem,BOtoendofrow—91stsrem.
Cutyarnanddrawthroughlastlooptosecure.
CollarWithRSfacing,rejoinCCtolivestsatrightneckandsl1pwisewyb,knittoend.
Contasfoll:
Row1:(WS)Sl1pwisewyf,k1,p1,k1;repfromtolastst,p1.
Row2:Sl1pwisewyb,p1,k1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Rows3and4:RepRows1and2.
Row5:Sl1,ssp(seeGlossary),k1,p1,k1;repfromtolast3sts,p2tog,p1—2stsdec’d.
Rows6,7,and8:RepRows2,3and4.
Row9:Sl1,ssk,p1,k1;repfromtolast3sts,k2tog,p1—2stsdec’d.
Rows10and12:RepRow2.
Row11:RepRow5—2stsdec’d.
Row13:RepRow9—83stsrem.
Workingfirstandlast2ststog,BOallstsinpatt.
SeamsWithMCthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stseam
allowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.WithMCandacrochethook,useslipstcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevecaptoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseamsandmatchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseam,easinginfullnessatcapasnecessaryandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin.
LightlysteamedgeborderfromWS.Donotsteamribbedcollar.
Laprighttabplacketoverlefttabsothatthelowercenterfrontedgesjustmeet,andmarkbuttonplacementonlefttab,oppositebuttonholes.Sewbuttonsinplace.
SteamlightlyfromWStosetsts.
Weaveinlooseends.
WrapBlouse
Nothingismoreeffectiveforflatteringandshapingeverybodytypethanasurplicewrap.Thediagonallinesfromnecktobuckleandfrombuckletohemelongatethesilhouette,whilesoftpleatsofferdefinitionatthewaistaswellasabitofcover-up.Thewaistandsleevecuffsareworkedinlinenstitch,whichprovideswelcomestabilityinthisotherwisefluidblouse.Theartisticallyoffsetdiagonallowerfrontedgescreatesophistication;three-quarter-lengthsleevesofferversatilecomfort.Theextraordinarilyfinedrapeofthebambooyarniscrucialforthesuccessofthisdesign.
FINISHEDSIZE
About34(36,38,40,42,44,46,48)"(86.5[91.5,96.5,101.5,106.5,112,117,122]cm)bustcircumference.
Topshownmeasures36"(91.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3).
Shownhere:SouthWestTradingBamboo(100%bamboo;250yd[228.5m]/100g):#138purplexed,5(5,6,6,7,7,7,8)balls.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
I-cordedging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):24"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Stitchholders;markers(m);sizeF/5(4mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle;2⅛"(5.3cm)diameterbuckle(availableatfabricstores).
GAUGE
24stsand30rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
STITCHGUIDE
LinenStitch(evennumberofsts)
Row1:(RS)*K1,sl1pwisewithyarninfront(wyf);repfromtolast2sts,k2.
Row2:(WS)*P1,sl1pwisewithyarninback(wyb);repfrom*tolast2sts,p2.
RepRows1and2forpatt.
BackWithlargerneedle,CO108(114,120,126,132,138,144,150)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1WSrow,thenworkeveninStstfor10rows,endingwithaWSrow.
SideDecreasesDecrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rows5moretimes—96(102,108,114,120,126,132,138)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures8½"(21.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaRSrow.
Nextrow:(WS)P7(8,8,9,9,10,10,11),*p2tog,p14(15,16,17,18,19,20,21);repfrom*4moretimes,p2tog,p7(7,8,8,9,9,10,10)—90(96,102,108,114,120,126,132)stsrem.
Workeveninlinenst(seeStitchGuide)untilpiecemeasures11"(28cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow—linenst“waistband”measures2½"(6.5cm).
Nextrow:(RS)K7(8,8,9,9,10,10,11),k1f&b(seeGlossary),*k14(15,16,
17,18,19,20,21),k1f&b;repfrom*4moretimes,k7(7,8,8,9,9,10,10)—96(102,108,114,120,126,132,138)sts.
Work9rowseveninStst,endingwithaWSrow.
SideIncreasesIncrow:(RS)K1,M1L(seeGlossary),knittolastst,M1R(seeGlossary),k1—2stsinc’d.
Work9rowseveninStst.Repthelast10rowsonce,thenrepincrowonceagain—102(108,114,120,126,132,138,144)sts.
WorkeveninStuntilpiecemeasures17"(43cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO4stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,2,2,4,4,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,2,4,2,4,6)rows—88(90,96,102,104,108,110,112)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Purl1WSrow.Repthelast2rows2(1,2,3,3,3,3,3)moretime(s)—82(86,90,94,96,100,102,104)stsrem.
WorkeveninStstuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeShouldersWorkshort-rows(seeGlossary)asfoll:
Short-Row1:WithRSfacing,knittolast11(12,13,14,15,16,16,16)sts,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,purltolast11(12,13,14,15,16,16,16)sts,wrapnextst,turnwork.
Short-Row2:WithRSfacing,knittolast22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)sts,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,purltolast22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)sts,wrapnextst,turnwork.
Nextrow:WithRSfacing,knittoend,workingwrapstogwithwrappedstswhenyoucometothem.
Nextrow:WithWSfacing,purltoend,workingwrapstogwithwrappedstswhenyoucometothem.
Placestsonholder.
Under-PeplumandLeftFront
Note:Waistdartsandarmholeshapingareintroducedatthesametimeassideshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Withlargerneedle,CO108(114,120,126,132,138,144,150)sts.Donotjoin.
Purl1WSrow,thenworkeveninStstfor10rows.
SideandDartDecreasesDecrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rows5timesandatthesametimewhenpiecemeasures5½"(14cm)fromCO,workwaistdartsasfoll:
Markcenter30(32,34,36,36,38,40,42)stsfordartplacement.
Dartdecrow:Knittofirstm,slipmarker(slm),ssk,knitto2stsbeforesecondm,k2tog,slm,knittoend—2stsdec’d.
Workingsideshapingasestablished,repdartdecrowwhenpiecemeasures6½"(16.5cm)andagainwhenpiecemeasures7½"(19cm)fromCO—90(96,102,108,114,120,126,132)stsremwhenalldartshapingiscomplete.
Contworkingsideshapingasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures8½"(21.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaRSrow.
Workeveninlinenstuntilpiecemeasures11"(28cm)fromCO,endingwithaRSrow—linenst“waistband”measures2½"(6.5cm).
Nextrow:(WS)Continlinenst,BO26(29,32,35,38,41,44,47)sts,thenworktoend—64(67,70,73,76,79,82,85)stsrem.
ShapeNeckDecrow:(RS)Knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
RepdecroweveryRSrow24moretimes,thenevery4throw10times—35stsdec’datneckedge.
Atthesametimewhenpiecemeasures12"(30.5cm)fromCO,shapethesideedgeasfoll.
SideIncreasesIncrow:(RS)K1,M1L,knittoend—1stinc’d.
Work9rowsevenatsideedge.Repthelast10rowsonce,thenrepincrowonceagain—3stsinc’datsideedge.
Atthesametimewhenpiecemeasures17"(43cm)fromCO(bodicemeasures6"[15cm]fromtopofwaistband),shapearmholesasfoll.
ShapeArmholesWorkingneckandsideshapingasestablished,atarmholeedge(begofRS
rows),BO4stsonce,thenBO3sts1(1,1,1,1,2,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts0(1,1,1,2,1,2,3)time(s)—7(9,9,9,11,12,14,16)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.Repthelast2rows2(1,2,3,3,3,3,3)moretime(s)tocompletearmholeshaping—22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)stsremforeachshoulderwhenallside,neck,andarmholeshapingiscomplete.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaRSrow.
ShapeShoulderShort-Row1:WithWSfacing,p11(12,13,14,14,15,16,17),wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,k11(12,13,14,14,15,16,17),turnwork.
Nextrow:(WS)Purl,workingwraptogwithwrappedstwhenyoucometoit.
Placestsonholder.
RightFrontCO2sts.Purl1(WS)row.
Shapecenterfront(rightedge)asfoll.
RSIncrow:K1,M1,knittoend—1stinc’d.
[Work1roweven,repincrow;thenwork3rowseven,repincrow]10times.
WSIncrow:Purltolastst,M1pwise,p1—1stinc’d.
RepRSIncrow,thenrepWSincrow—24stsinc’d.
Atthesametimeshapeloweredgeforyoursizeasfolls:
Knittoendofrow(leftedge),turnworksoWSisfacing,thenusethecablemethod(seeGlossary)toCOthespecifiednumberofstsforyoursize,thenpurltoendasfoll.
SIZES34(36,38,40)"ONLY[CO4sts,thenCO3sts]7(8,8,7)times,thenCO4(4,7,5)sts2(1,1,2)time(s),thenCO7sts0(0,0,1)time—57(60,63,66)stsCO.
SIZES42(44)"ONLY[CO4sts]16(15)times,thenCO5(6)sts1(2)time(s)—69(72)stsCO.
SIZES46(48)"ONLY[CO5sts,thenCO4sts]8times,thenCO3(6)stsonce—75(78)stsCO.
Atthesametimewhenloweredgeshapingiscomplete,workevenatsideedgefor10rowswhileconttoinconcenterfrontedge.
SideDecreasesDecrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work7rowsevenatsideedge.Repthelast8rows5moretimes—6stsdec’datsideedge.
Contevenonallstsuntilpiecemeasures7"(18cm)fromlastcenterfrontinc.
ShapeNeck
Note:ForasmoothBOedge,usetheslopedmethod(seeGlossary)toBOalongtheneckedge.
Atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO5stsonce,thenBO4sts3times,thenBO2sts3times—23stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statneckedgeinthismannereveryRSrow14moretimes,thenevery4throw10times—25stsdec’dtotal.
SideIncreasesAtthesametime,whenpiecemeasures12½"(31.5cm)atsideedge,incasfoll:
Incrow:(RS)Knittolastst,M1R,k1—1stinc’d.
Work9rowsevenatsideedge.Repthelast10rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—3stsinc’datsideedge.
Alsoatthesametime,whenpiecemeaures17"(43cm)fromCOatsideedgeshapearmholeasfoll.
ShapeArmholeWorkingneckshapingasestablished,atarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO4stsonce,thenBO3sts1(1,1,1,1,2,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts0(1,1,1,2,1,2,3)time(s)—7(9,9,9,11,12,14,16)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.Repthelast2rows2(1,2,3,3,3,3,3)moretime(s)tocompletearmholeshaping—3(2,3,4,4,4,4,4)stsdec’d;22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)stsremwhenallshapingiscomplete.
Contneckshapingasestablished,workarmholeedgeevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaRSrow.
ShapeShoulderShort-Row1:WithRSfacing,k11(12,13,14,14,15,16,17),wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,p11(12,13,14,14,15,16,17).
Nextrow:(RS)Knit,workingwraptogwithwrappedstwhenyoucometoit.
Placestsonholder.
SleevesWithlargerneedle,CO60(60,66,66,66,72,72,72)sts.Donotjoin.
Workinlinenstuntilpiecemeasures1½"(3.8cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,M1L,knittolastst,M1R,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7(7,9,7,5,7,5,5)rowseven.Repthelast8(8,10,8,6,8,6,6)rows7(8,6,8,9,8,9,11)moretimes—76(78,80,84,86,90,92,96)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures11"(28cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO4stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,4,6,6,6)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,0,2,2,0,0,2)rows—58(60,60,60,62,64,66,66)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow13(13,13,13,14,14,15,15)moretimes—30(32,32,32,32,34,34,34)stsrem.
BO3stsatbegofnext4(2,2,2,2,2,2,2)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,2,2,2,2,2)rows—18(18,18,18,18,20,20,20)stsrem.
BOallsts.
Finishing
BlockingSteam-block(seeGlossary)allpiecestomeasurements,pressinglightlytoencourageloweredgelieflat.SteamfrombothRSandWS.Letair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace82(86,90,94,96,100,102,104)backstsontooneneedleand22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)rightfrontstsand22(24,26,28,29,31,32,33)leftfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtogandusethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOrightfrontststogwithbackstsforrightshoulder.BOnext38backstssinglyforbackneck,thenBOrembackststogwithleftfrontstsforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams.
WithWSofgarmentfacing,pinleftfrontattherightsideseam,aligninglinenstwaistbandandloweredges.Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,whipstitch(seeGlossary)leftfrontedgetorightseamallowance.
Usingthemattressstwith½-stseamallowance,sewsleeveseams.LightlysteamseamsfromWS.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseamsandmatchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseam,easingfullnessatsleevetop.Withcrochethookandworkingfromthebodysideoftheseam,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevetobody.Lightlysteam-blockarmholeseams.
RightFrontPleatsMarktheuppercornerandthelowercorneroftheleft7"(18cm)edgeofrightfront.Makefourpleatfolds,each½"(1.3cm)widewithfoldedgesfacingdownasshownbelow—2½"(6.5cm)rembetweenmarkers.
WithcrochethookandRSfacing,workabout15singlecrochet(sc;seeGlossary)stsbetweenmarkers,insertinghookthroughallthreelayersofeachfoldtosecure.Pullentireballthroughlastlooptosecure.
Withattachedworkingyarnandsmallercirneedle,pickupandknit1stforeachstalongBOedgesandabout3stsforevery4rowsalongdecshaping—about90(90,90,93,93,93,96,96)stsalongrightfrontedge,38stsacrossbackneck,and83(83,83,86,86,86,89,89)stsalongleftfrontedge.Cutyarn,leavingan8"(20.5cm)tailtoweavein.
Returntothefirstpickedupstandusethecablemethod(seeGlossary)toCO2morests.
WorkI-cordBOasfoll:WithRSfacing,*k1,ssk(1I-cordstand1bodyst),returnthese2stsontoleftneedletip,pullyarntightlyacrossbackofsts;repfrom*until1picked-upstrems.
Tofinish,k1,ssk,passrightstoverleftandoffneedle.Pullcutendthroughlaststtosecure.
Weaveinlooseends.LightlysteamseamsfromWSandfinger-presstoreduceanybulk.
Insertfoldededgeofrightfrontthroughbuckleandpullbucklebackfarenoughtorevealcrochetededge.Pincrochetededgetoleftfrontwaistbandabout2"(5cm)fromsideseam,curvingtheseamtofollowtheshapeofthebuckle.Whipstitchintoplace.
Steamtheseamtosetsts.Slidebuckleintoplacetohideseamandsecurefoldededgeintoplace.
KnowYourYarn:BambooBamboofiberhasanaturalsheenandsoftdrape.Themicroscopicgapsinitsstructureallowittobreatheandregulateheat.It’sthereforeacomfortablechoiceforhot,humidweather.Itisalsohighlyabsorbent,efficientlywickingawaymoisturefromthe
body.Bamboofiberacceptsdyereadilyforsplendidcolorclarity.Itproducesdurableclothingthatiseasytocareforandshrinksonlyminimallyinwarmtemperaturesduringwashinganddrying.
Bamboo,botanicallyclassifiedasagrass,isoneofthefastestgrowingrenewableresourcestoday.Crushtheleavesandtheinnerpithofthebamboostalk,sendthemixturethroughaseriesofchemicalprocesses,forcetheviscosebamboothroughspinneretnozzles,thenreconvertittocellulosebamboofiberthread,andspinitintoyarn.Knit.Wear.Enjoy.
ZigzagShell
BoldgraphicblocksofcolormeetatanI-cordzigzagforadramaticshoutofstyleinthisupdatedteethatfeaturesastraightbodyandroundedneck.Choosefromshort-sleeveorsleevelessoptionsandmixtwoofyourfavoritecolorswithaboldpopofathirdtocoordinatewithyourwardrobe.Considersubtleneutrals,vividbrights,similartones,oroppositevalues(suchasblackandwhite).Eachtriadpalettewillindividualizeyourfashionstatement.Thematteandshineofthebamboo-cotton-blendyarnusedhereoffersvisualtexturethatmakesthecolorsvibrate.
FINISHEDSIZE
About33(35½,37½,39,41,43½,45)"(84[90,95,99,104,110.5,114.5]cm)bustcircumference.
Shellshownmeasures35½"(90cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:SouthWestTradingCompanyTerra(50%bamboo,50%cotton;120yd[110m]/50g):#434blue(MC),5(6,6,6,7,7,8)balls;#442green(A),3(3,3,4,4,4,4)balls,#422purple(B),1ball.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):16"(60cm)cirand2double-pointed(dpn).
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;open-ringmarkers(m);tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22stsand30rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BackWithsmallerneedle,CO91(97,103,107,113,119,123)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1,p1throughbackloop(tbl);repfromtolast2sts,k1,p1.
Row2:(RS)K1,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Repthese2rowsoncemore,thenworkRow1onceagain—5rowstotal.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures14½(15,15½,16,16½,16½,16½)"(37[38,39.5,40.5,42,42,42]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(4,6,6,8,8,6)rows—81(83,85,89,91,97,99)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow2(3,3,3,3,4,5)times—77(77,79,83,85,89,89)stsrem.
WorkeveninStstuntilarmholesmeasure6½(6½,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(16.5[16.5,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckandShouldersMarkcenter21(21,21,21,21,23,23)sts.
WithRSfacing,knittomarkedsts,joinnewyarnandBO21(21,21,21,21,23,23)markedsts,knittoend—28(28,29,31,32,33,33)stsremeachside.
Workeachsideseparatelyasfoll.
LEFTSIDEPurl1WSrow.
Workshort-rows(seeGlossary)asfoll:
Short-Row1:WithRSfacing,BO9(9,9,10,10,11,11)sts,k8(8,9,10,10,10,10),wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,purltoend—19(19,20,21,22,22,22)stsrem.
Row2:(RS)Knit,workingwraptogwithwrappedstasyougo.
Row3:Purl.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
RIGHTSIDEWithWSfacing,BO9(9,9,10,10,11,11)stspwise,purltoend—19(19,20,21,22,22,22)stsrem.
Knit1roweven.
Short-Row1:WithWSfacing,p8(8,9,10,10,10,10),wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,knittoend.
Row2:(WS)Purl,workingwraptogwithwrappedstasyougo.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
Front
Note:OnehalfofthefrontisworkedinMCandtheotherhalfisworkedinA.Changecolorsusingtheintarsiamethod,bringingthenewcolorupfromundertheoldateachcolorchangetopreventholesfromforming.
WithsmallerneedleandMC,CO42(45,48,50,53,56,58)sts;withACO49(52,55,57,60,63,65)morestsontosameneedle—91(97,103,107,113,119,123)ststotal.
Markthecenterstwithopen-ringmarkertoidentifycenterstofchartandworkincolorsasestablished.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1,p1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,k1,p1.
Row2:(RS):K1,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Repthese2rowsoncemore,thenworkRow1onceagain—5rowstotal.
ChangetolargerneedleandStst,workingRows6–104(108,112,116,120,120,120)ofchartforcolorchanges—piecemeasuresabout14½(15,15½,16,16½,16½,16½)"(37[38,39.5,40.5,42,42,42]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesContworkingchartasestablished,BO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(4,6,6,8,8,6)rows—81(83,85,89,91,97,99)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow2(3,3,3,3,4,5)times—77(77,79,83,85,89,89)stsrem.
ContthroughRow134(138,142,144,150,154,154)ofchart—armholesmeasureabout4(4,4,4,4,4½,4½)"(10[10,10,10,10,11.5,11.5]cm).
ShapeNeckMarkcenter11(11,11,13,13,15,15)sts.
WithRSfacing,knittomarkedsts,BO11(11,11,13,13,15,15)markedsts,worktoend—33(33,34,35,36,37,37)stsremeachside.
RIGHTSIDEPurl1WSrow.
Atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO3sts2times,thenBO2sts3times—21(21,22,23,24,25,25)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statneckedgeinthismannereveryRSrow1(1,1,1,1,2,2)moretime(s)—19(19,20,21,22,22,22)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures6½(6½,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(16.5[16.5,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Workshort-rowsasfoll:
Short-Row1:WithRSfacing,k9(9,10,11,11,11,11),wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,purltoend.
Row2:(RS)Knit,workingwraptogwithwrappedstasyougo.
Row3:Purl.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LEFTSIDEWithWSfacing,joinyarntoleftfrontstsandatneckedge(begofWSrows),BO3sts2times,thenBO2sts3times—21(21,22,23,24,25,25)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)Knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Dec1statneckedgeinthismannereveryRSrow1(1,1,1,1,2,2)moretime(s)—19(19,20,21,22,22,22)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures6½(6½,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(16.5[16.5,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaRSrow.
Workshort-rowsasfoll:
Short-Row1:WithWSfacing,p9(9,10,11,11,11,11),wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,knittoend.
Row2:(WS)Purl,workingwraptogwithwrappedstasyougo.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
Sleeves
Note:Seepage63forsleevelessoption.
WithsmallerneedleandMCforleftsleeveorAforrightsleeve,CO65(65,69,69,71,71,75)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(WS)P1,k1,p1tbl;repfromtolast2sts,k1,p1.
Row2:(RS)K1,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Repthese2rowsoncemore,thenworkRow1onceagain—5rowstotal.
Changetolargerneedle.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work5rowseven.
Repthelast6rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—71(71,75,75,77,77,81)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures2½"(6.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,4,4,6)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,2,2,0)rows—61(61,61,61,61,61,63)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow16(16,16,16,16,16,17)moretimes—27stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2rows—17stsrem.
BOallsts.
Zigzag
DownloadaPDFofthischarthere.
FinishingUsingthesteammethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements,workingfrombothsides.Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace19(19,20,21,22,22,23)heldrightbackstsontooneneedleand19(19,20,21,22,22,23)heldrightfrontstsontoasecondneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOststogforrightshoulder.Repforleftshoulder.
Neckband
WithB,smaller,shortercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightshoulderseam,pickupandknit46(46,46,48,48,50,50)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneckand74(74,74,76,76,80,80)stsevenlyspacedalongfrontneck—120(120,120,124,124,130,130)ststotal.Placemarker(pm)andjoinforworkinginrnds.
Rnd1:K1,p1;repfromaround.
Continribasestablisheduntilribmeasures1"(2.5cm)frompick-uprnd.
BOallstsinpatt.
ZigzagI-cordWithBanddpn,CO3sts.
Work3-stI-cord(seeGlossary)untilpiecemeasuresabout35(35,35,35,35½,35½,35½)"(89[89,89,89,90,90,90]cm),slightlystretched.
Placestsonholder.
Pincordalongfrontzigzagfromloweredgeofribto3"(7.5cm)belowtopofneckrib.WithBthreadedonatapestryneedleandworkingfromWS,usewhipstitches(seeGlossary)tosecureI-cordtogarmentfront,capturingjustthebacksideoftheI-cordwheninsertingtapestryneedlefromWSandadjustingfitasnecessary.AddorsubtractrowsofI-cordasnecessarytoendattopofneckribbing.
Tofinish,sl1,k2tog,psso—1strem.
Cutyarnandpulltailthroughremlooptosecure.
NeckBorderWithBanddpn,CO3sts.
Work3-stI-corduntilpiecemeasuresabout22"(56cm)fromCO,slightlystretched.
Placestsonholder.
Pincordaroundneckline,coveringneckribpick-upandtuckingbeginningofI-cordjustunderthezigzagI-cord.WithBthreadedonatapestryneedleandworkingfromWS,usebackstitches(seeGlossary)tosecureI-cordaroundneckline,ending3"(7.5cm)beforecompletingopening.AddorsubtractrowsofI-cordasnecessarytoendatbegofneckband.Tofinish,sl1,k2tog,psso—1strem.
Cutyarnandpulltailthroughremlooptosecure.Securerem3"(7.5cm)I-cord,tuckingendunderzigzagcord.
SeamsWithmatchingyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½st
seamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.Lightlysteam-blockseams.SteamI-cordsfrombothRSandWS.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseams,matchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseamandeasingfullnessatsleevetop.Withcrochethookandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideoftheseam,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevetobody.
Lightlysteam-blockarmholeseams.
SleevelessOptionWithMCorAtomatchfront,smaller,shortercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit82(82,94,94,94,98,98)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.
Rnd1:K1,p1;repfrom.
Continribasestablisheduntilribmeasures1"(2.5cm)frompick-uprnd.
BOallstsinpatt.
TuscanyLace
AsimpleFairIsleribstabilizestheyokeandcapsleeveswhileprovidingnecessarystructureforfreeflowofthelacepatterninthisseeminglyweightlesstunic.Thediamond-patternedlaceliterallyandvisuallyremovestheweight,leavingalovelydrapeoftherayon-linenyarn.Abitofskinisrevealedthroughtheopenhorizontalslitbetweentheyokeandthelowertunic,offeringvisualbalancebetweenthetwotextures.Thistunicisbestfeaturedoverasolidcolor.Tryitwithacamisoleandmatchingcaprisoralongtankdress—eitherway,you’lllookgreat!
FINISHEDSIZE
About36(40,44,48)"(91.5[101.5,112,122]cm)bustcircumference(seeNotes).
Tunicshownmeasures40"(101.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:ClassicEliteFirefly(75%viscose,25%linen;155yd[146m]/50g):#7754hyacinth(MC),6balls;#7777Britannia(A),2(2,3,3)balls,and#7766Sicily(B),2balls.
NEEDLES
Yoke:sizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir)plusanextraneedleforthree-needlebind-off.
Lace:sizesU.S.8,7,and6(5,4.5,and4mm):24"(60cm)cirofeach
size.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
30stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inFairIslepattonsmallestneedle.
19.5stsand26rows=4"(10cm)inlacepattonsize6(4mm)needle,afterblocking.
NOTES
Thelacepatternisveryfluidandflexibleandcanbeblockedtofitarangeofbustcircumferences;chooseasizebasedonthebackwidth.Tokeepcontinuityofthelacepatternandstitchcountconsistent,everyyomustbepairedwithadecreaseandviceversa.Iftherearen’tenoughstitchestopairtheyarnoversanddecreaseswhenworkingtheshaping,workthosestitchesinstockinettestitchinstead.
BackYokeWithBandsmallestcirneedle,CO108(116,124,132)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Set-uprow:(RS)K1withA(selvedgest),k2withA,k2withB;repfromtolast3sts,k2withA,k1withA(selvedgest).
Row1:(WS)P1A(selvedgest),p2A,k2B;repfromtolast3sts,p2A,p1A(selvedgest).
Row2:K1A(selvedgest),k2A,p2B;repfromtolast3sts,k2A,k1A(selvedgest).
Repthelast2rowsuntilpiecemeasures4½(5,5½,5½)"(11.5[12.5,14,14]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,work37(41,43,47)sts,joinasecondballofAandBOcenter34(34,38,38)stsknitwise,joinasecondballofBandworktoend—37(41,43,47)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO10(10,12,12)stsateachneckedgewithA,workingknitwisefromRSandpurlwisefromWS—27(31,31,35)stsremeachside.
Workeveninpattuntilpiecemeasures5(5½,6,6)"(12.5[14,15,15]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Placeeachsetofstsontowaste-yarnholder,leaving30"(76cm)tailofeachcolorforfinishing.
FrontYoke
WithAandsmallestneedle,CO108(116,124,132)sts.Donotjoin.
Set-uprow:(RS)K1A(selvedgest),k2A,k2B;repfromtolast3sts,k2A,k1A(selvedgest).
Nextrow:(WS)P1A(selvedgest),p2A,k2B;repfromtolast3sts,p2A,p1A(selvedgest).
Workinshort-rows(seeGlossary)asfoll:
Note:Donotworkwrapstogwithwrappedstswhenyoucometothem.
Short-Row1:WithRSfacing,k3A,[p2B,k2A]2times,p1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,k1B,crossyarnbybringingAupfromunderB,[p2A,k2B]2times,p3A.
Short-Row2:WithRSfacing,k3A,[p2B,k2A]5times,p1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,k1B,bringAupfromunderB,[p2A,k2B]5times,p3A.
Short-Row3:WithRSfacing,k3A,[p2B,k2A]8times,p1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,k1B,bringAupfromunderB,[p2A,k2B]8times,p3A.
Short-Row4:WithRSfacing,k3A,[p2B,k2A]11times,p1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoWSisfacing,k1B,bringAupfromunderB,[p2A,k2B]11times,p3A.
Nextrow:(RS)K1A(selvedgest),k2A,p2B;repfromtolast3sts,k2A,k1A(selvedgest).
Short-Row5:WithWSfacing,p3A,[k2B,p2A]2times,k1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,p1B,bringAupfromunderB,[k2A,p2B]2times,k3A.
Short-Row6:WithWSfacing,p3A,[k2B,p2A]5times,k1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,p1B,bringAupfromunderB,[k2A,p2B]5times,k3A.
Short-Row7:WithWSfacing,p3A,[k2B,p2A]8times,k1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,p1B,bringAupfromunderB,[k2A,p2B]8times,
k3A.
Short-Row8:WithWSfacing,p3A,[k2B,p2A]11times,k1B,wrapnextst,turnworksoRSisfacing,p1B,bringAupfromunderB,[k2A,p2B]11times,k3A.
Nextrow:P1A(selvedgest),p2A,k2B;repfromtolast3sts,p2A,p1A(selvedgest).
Conteveninpattasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures3½(4,4½,4½)"(9[10,11.5,11.5]cm)fromCOatsideedge,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,work43(47,49,53)sts,joinasecondballofAandBOcenter22(22,26,26)stsknitwise,joinsecondballofBandworktoend—43(47,49,53)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,withAandworkingknitwisefromRSandpurlwisefromWS,ateachneckedgeBO6stsonce,thenBO4sts2times,thenBO2sts1(1,2,2)time(s)—27(31,31,35)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures5(5½,6,6)"(12.5[14,15,15]cm)fromCO,measuredalongsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
SleevesWithAandsmallestneedle,CO108(116,124,124)sts.Donotjoin.
Workasforfrontyokethroughallshort-rowshaping,thenworkeveninFairIsleasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromCOatside.
ShapeCapUsingAandcarryingBalongtheWSandsecuringfloatsasneeded,BO9stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO7stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO5stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll6(8,10,10)rows,thenBO5stsatbegoffoll4rows—22stsrem.
BOallsts.
LowerBack
Note:Needlesizechangeswhilepieceisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollsectionbeforeproceeding.
WithMCandsize8(5mm)needle,CO114sts.Donotjoin.
Purl1WSrow.WorkRows1–52ofTuscanyLacechart2times,thenwork
Rows1–12onceagain.Atthesametime,whenpiecemeasures8"(20.5cm)fromCO,changetosize7(4.5mm)needle,then,whenpiecemeasures12"(30.5cm)fromCO,changetosize6(4mm)needle—piecemeasuresabout17"(43cm)fromCOaftercharthasbeenworkedfor64rows,endingwithRow12ofchart.
TuscanyLace
DownloadaPDFofthischarthere.
ShapeArmholes
Note:Tomakeiteasiertomaintainthecontinuityofthelacepattern,placeanopen-ringmarkerafterthefirst14stsandbeforethelast14stsontheneedletodenotetheststhatwillbeeliminatedduringarmholeshaping;removethemarkerswhenthearmholeshapingiscomplete.
KeepinginpattandbegwithRow13ofchart,BO8stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll4rows—90stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow2times—86stsrem.
WorkthroughRow25ofchart.
Decrow:Purl,andatthesametimeworkp2tog14(10,4,0)timesevenlyspacedacrossrow—72(76,82,86)stsrem.
BOallstskwise.
LowerFrontCOandworkthesameaslowerback.
FinishingUsingthesteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockFairIslepiecestomeasurements.Steam-blocklacepieces.Allowtoairdrythoroughlybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlaceeachsetof27(31,31,35)backyokestsontoonesmallerneedleandcorrespondingfrontyokestsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtogand,usingtheyarntails,usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOtheshoulderststog,matchingcolorsasestablished.
NeckbandWithA,smallestneedle,andbegatrightshoulderseam,pickupandknit54(54,62,62)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneckand70(70,74,74)stsevenlyspacedacrossfrontneck—124(124,136,136)ststotal.
Joinforworkinginrnds.Purl1rnd.ChangetoMCandknit1rnd.BOallstspurlwise.
SeamsWithMCthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams.
Usebackstitches(seeGlossary)tosewbacklacepaneltoloweredgeofbackyoke,lappingyokejustslightlyoverBOedgeoflace.
PinfrontFairIsleyoketofrontlacepanelforplacement,lappingyokejustslightlyoverBOedgeoflacefor4(4,4½,5)"(10[10,11.5,12.5]cm)infromeacharmhole.Usebackstitchestosewinplace,leavingthecenter6½(7½,7½,7½)"(16.5[19,19,19]cm)openforhorizontalslit.
Sewsideseamsofsleevesusingmattressstwith1stseamallowance(seeGlossary).
ArmbandsWithMC,smallestneedle,andbegatcenterofunderarm,pickupandknit18stsevenlyspacedalonglaceportionofunderarm,32(35,38,38)stsalongyoketoshoulderseam,32(35,38,38)stsalongyoketolacesection,then18ststocenterofunderarm—100(106,112,112)ststotal.
Joinforworkinginrnds.Purl1rnd.BOallstsknitwise.
Pinsleevesintoarmholes,matchingsidetounderarmseams,centersleevecaptoshoulderseam,andeasingfullnessofsleevecap.WithMCandcrochethook,andworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthegarment,useslip-stitchcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevestoarmholes.
Weaveinlooseends.Steamseamstosetsts.
ParisLights
Noveltyyarnisatitsbestwhenitshowcasestextureandcolorinasimplestyle.Thiselegant,lightjacketfeaturesageometricstair-steploweredgethatdipsinfrontandbackandflaresgentlyfromwaisttohemandfromelbowtocuff.Workedinseedstitch,thesheenofthisuniqueladderyarncapturesthelightanddisplaysremarkablecolorvariation.Theslimfitwilldrapeandmoldtoanyfigure—wearitopenorfastenedwithasinglestickclosuretodefinetheV-neckandenhanceanydressstyle,especiallythebasiclittleblackone.
FINISHEDSIZE
About35(37,39,41,43,45,47,49)"(89[94,99,104,109,114.5,119.5,124.5]cm)bustcircumference,with1½"(3.8cm)overlap.
Jacketshownmeasures37"(94cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:PlymouthErosII(100%nylon;165yd[155m]/50g):#4132black/gold,6(6,7,7,8,8,9,9)balls.
NEEDLES
SizeU.S.9(4.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir)andextraneedlethesamesizeorsmallerforthree-needlebind-off.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;sizeF/5(4.5mm)crochethook;open-ringmarkers(m);tapestryneedle;one1"(2.5cm)lightweightbuttonordecorativestickpinforclosure.
GAUGE
16stsand24rows=4"(10cm)inseedst.
STITCHGUIDE
SeedStitchPattern(evennumberofsts)
Row1:(RS)K1,p1;repfrom.
Row2:(WS)P1,k1;repfrom.
RepRows1and2forpatt.
NOTES
Workseedstitchthroughoutentiregarment,alternatingknitandpurlstitches;insubsequentrows,knitoverpurlstitchesandpurloverknitstitches.
Toensureaccuracyinmeasuring,spreadknittingtoitsfinishedwidthbeforemeasuringforlength.Thismayrequiretransferringststowasteyarntospreadtomeasurement.
BackCO10sts.
Workinseedst(seeStitchGuide)for4rows.WithRSfacingplaceanopen-ringmarkerintofrontofworktoindicateRSofgarment.
ShapeLowerEdge*WithRSfacing,usethecablemethod(seeGlossary)toCO10sts.BegwiththenewlyCOsts,workRow1ofseedsttoendofrow.
WithWSfacing,usethecablemethodtoCO10sts.BegwiththenewlyCOsts,workRow2ofseedsttoendofrow.
Workeveninseedstfor2rows.
Repfrom*oncemore—50sts.
Continseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO8(10,12,14,10,10,10,10)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenwork2roweven—66(70,74,78,70,70,70,70)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll:
SIZES43(45,47,49)"ONLYContinseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO6(8,10,12)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenwork2rowseven—82(86,90,94)sts.
ALLSIZESPiecemeasuresabout2½(2½,2½,2½,3¼,3¼,3¼,3¼)"(6.5[6.5,6.5,6.5,8.5,8.5,8.5,8.5]cm)frominitialCO.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures3½(3½,3½,3½,4,4,4,4)"(9[9,9,9,10,10,10,10]cm)fromlastCO,measuredalongsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
DecRow1:P2tog,k1,p1;repfromtolast2sts,k2tog—2stsdec’d.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures5(5,5,5,5½,5½,6,6)"(12.5[12.5,12.5,12.5,14,14,15,15]cm)fromlastCO,measuredalongsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
DecRow2:K2tog,p1,k1;repfromtolast2sts,p2tog—62(66,70,74,78,82,86,90)stsrem.
Conteveninseedstitchuntilpiecemeasures9(9,9,9,9½,9½,10,10)"(23[23,23,23,24,24,25.5,25.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredalongsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
IncRow1:K1f&b(seeGlossary),p1,k1,p1;repfromtolast2sts,k1f&b,k1—2stsinc’d.
Conteveninseedstasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures11(11,11,11,11½,11½,12,12)"(28[28,28,28,29,29,30.5,30.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredalongsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
IncRow2:K1f&b,k1,p1;repfromtolast3sts,k1,k1f&b,p1—66(70,74,78,82,86,90,94)sts.
Conteveninseedstasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures13½(14,14½,14½,15,15,15½,16)"(34.5[35.5,37,37,38,38,39.5,40.5]cm),measuredalongsideedge.
ShapeArmholesKeepinginpatt,BO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,2,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,2,2,4,4,4)rows—56(60,64,68,72,72,76,74)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow1(2,2,3,4,3,4,2)time(s)—54(56,60,62,64,66,68,70)stsrem.
Contevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7½,7½,8,8,8,8½)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5]cm).
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
RightFrontCO12sts.
Workinseedstfor4rows.WithRSfacing,placeanopen-ringmarkerintofrontofworktoindicateRSofgarment.
Work1RSroweven.
*WithWSfacing,usethecablemethodtoCO10sts.BegwiththenewlyCOsts,p1,k1;repfromtoendofrow.
Workeveninseedstfor3rows.
Repfrom*oncemore—32sts.
Continseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO8(10,12,14,10,10,10,10)stsatbegofnextrow,thenwork3rowseven—40(42,44,46,42,42,42,42)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll:
SIZES43(45,47,49)"ONLY
Continseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO6(8,10,12)stsatbegofnextrow,thenwork3rowseven—48(50,52,54)sts.
ALLSIZESPiecemeasuresabout2½(2½,2½,2½,3¼3¼,3¼,3¼)"(6.5[6.5,6.5,6.5,8.5,8.5,8.5,8.5]cm)fromintialCO.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures3½(3½,3½,3½,4,4,4,4)"(9[9,9,9,10,10,10,10]cm)fomlastCO,measuredatsideedge,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:Workinseedsttolast2sts,k2togorp2togasnecessarytomaintainpatt—1stdec’d.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures5(5,5,5,5½,5½,6,6)"(12.5[12.5,12.5,12.5,14,14,15,15]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Repdecrow—38(40,42,44,46,48,50,52)stsrem.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures9(9,9,9,9½,9½,10,10)"(23[23,23,23,24,24,25.5,25.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:Workinseedsttolast2sts,k1f&b,k1orp1asnecessarytomaintainpatt—1stinc’d.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures11(11,11,11,11½,11½,12,12)"(28[28,28,28,29,29,30.5,30.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeand
endingwithaWSrow.
Repincrow—40(42,44,46,48,50,52,54)sts.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures13½(14,14½,14½,15,15,15½,16)"(34.5[35.5,37,37,38,38,39.5,40.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaRSroworoptionalRSbuttonholerow(seebelow).
Optionalbuttonholerow:(RS)K1,p1,k1,yo,k2tog,workinseedsttoendofrow.
ShapeArmhole
Note:Necklineshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Atarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO3sts1(1,1,1,1,1,1,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,1,1,2,2,2)times(s).
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow1(2,2,3,4,3,4,2)time(s)—6(7,7,8,9,10,11,12)stsdec’dfromarmhole.
Atthesametimewhen6rowsofarmholeshapinghavebeenworked,shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckContarmholeshapingasestablished,BO2stsatneckedge(begofRSrows)2(2,3,3,3,3,3,3)times.
Dec1statneckedgeeveryRSrow11(12,12,12,13,13,13,14)times—19(19,19,20,20,21,22,22)stsremafterallarmholeandneckshapingiscomplete.
Contevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7½,7½,8,8,8,8½)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5]cm).
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LeftFrontCO12sts.Workinseedstfor4rows.WithRSfacing,placeanopen-ringmarkerintofrontofworktoindicateRSofgarment.
*WithRSfacing,usethecablemethodtoCO10sts.BegwiththenewlyCOsts,k1,p1;repfromtoendofrow.
Workeveninseedstfor3rows.
Repfrom*oncemore—32sts.
Continseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO8(10,12,14,10,10,10,10)stsatbegofnextrow,thenwork3rowseven—40(42,44,46,42,42,42,42)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll:
SIZES43(45,47,49)"ONLYContinseedst,usethecablemethodtoCO6(8,10,12)stsatbegofnextrow,thenwork3rowseven—48(50,52,54)sts.
ALLSIZESPiecemeasuresabout2½(2½,2½,2½,3¼,3¼,3¼,3¼)"(6.5[6.5,6.5,6.5,8.5,8.5,8.5,8.5]cm)frominitialCO.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures3½(3½,3½,3½,4,4,4,4)"(9[9,9,9,10,10,10,10]cm)fomlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:K2togorp2togasnecessarytomaintainpatt,workinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow—1stdec’d.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures5(5,5,5,5½,5½,6,6)"(12.5[12.5,12.5,12.5,14,14,15,15]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Repdecrow—38(40,42,44,46,48,50,52)stsrem.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures9(9,9,9,9½,9½,10,10)"(23[23,23,23,24,24,25.5,25.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:K1f&borp1f&b(seeGlossary)asnecessarytomaintainpatt,workinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow—1stinc’d.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures11(11,11,11,11½,11½,12,12)"(28[28,28,28,29,29,30.5,30.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
Repincrow—40(42,44,46,48,50,52,54)sts.
Conteveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures13½(14,14½,14½,15,15,15½,16)"(34.5[35.5,37,37,38,38,39.5,40.5]cm)fromlastCO,measuredatsideedgeandendingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmhole
Note:Necklineshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Atarmholeedge(begofRSrows)BO3sts1(1,1,1,1,1,1,2)time(s),thenBO2sts1(1,1,1,1,2,2,2)times(s).
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow1(2,2,3,4,3,4,2)time(s)—6(7,7,8,9,10,11,12)stsdec’dfromarmhole.
Atthesametime,when6rowsofarmholeshapinghavebeenworked,shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckContarmholeshapingasestablished,BO2stsatneckedge(begofWSrows)2(2,3,3,3,3,3,3)times.
Dec1statneckedgeeveryRSrow11(12,12,12,13,13,13,14)times—19(19,19,20,20,21,22,22)stsremafterallarmholeandneckshapingiscomplete.
Contevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7½,7½,8,8,8,8½)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5]cm).
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
SleevesCO10sts.
Workinseedstfor4rows.WithRSfacing,placeanopen-ringmarkerintofrontofworktoindicateRSofgarment.
ShapeLowerEdgeNextrow:(RS)UsethecablemethodtoCO10(10,10,11,11,12,12,13)sts,thenbegwiththenewlyCOsts,workinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow.
Nextrow:(WS)CO10(10,10,11,11,12,12,13)stsasbefore,thenbegwithnewlyCOsts,workinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow—30(30,30,32,32,34,34,36)sts.
Work2rowseveninseedst.
Nextrow:(RS)CO10(10,11,11,12,12,13,13)stsasbefore,thenworkinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow.
Nextrow:(WS)CO10(10,11,11,12,12,13,13)stsasbefore,thenworkinseedstasestablishedtoendofrow—50(50,52,54,56,58,60,62)sts.
Work8rowseveninpatt.
Decrow:(RS)K2togorp2togasnecessarytomaintainpatt,workinseedstasestablishedtothelast2sts,k2togorp2togasnecessarytomaintainpatt—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseveninseedst.
Repthelast8rows2moretimes—44(44,46,48,50,52,54,56)stsrem.
Workeveninseedstuntilpiecemeasures13½"(34.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1f&b,workinpatttolast2sts,k1f&b,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7rowseveninpatt.
Repthelast8rows3moretimes—52(52,54,56,58,60,62,64)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures17(17,17½,17½,17½18,18,18½)"(43[43,44.5,44.5,44.5,45.5,45.5,47]cm)fromlastCOatsleeveseamedge,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO3stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,4,4,4,6,6)rows—42(42,44,42,44,46,44,46)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow13(13,14,13,14,15,14,15)times—16stsrem.
BOallsts.
FinishingUsingthewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.
JoinShouldersReturn54(56,60,62,64,66,68,70)heldbackstsontooneneedleand19(19,19,20,20,21,22,22)heldrightfrontstsontoanotherneedle.WithRSfacingtog,usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOrightfrontandbackststogforrightshoulder.BOthenext16(18,22,22,24,24,24,26)backstssingly.Place19(19,19,20,20,21,22,22)heldleftfrontstsontosecondneedleand,withRSfacingtog,usethethree-needlemethodtoBOleftfrontandrembackststogforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,useamattressstforseedstitch(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseams,matchingcentersleevecapwithshoulderseam,andeasinginfullnessattopofcapasnecessary.Withacrochethookandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin,useslipstcrochetmethod(seeGlossary)tojoincapintoarmhole.
Weaveinlooseends.Lightlysteam-blockseamsandfinger-presstoreducebulk,beingcarefulnottotouchirontoknittedfabric(whichmightcauseittomelt).
Sewbuttontoleftfrontoppositeoptionalbuttonhole,ifdesired.
KnowYourYarn:LadderRibbonLadderribbonyarnismadeupofshimmeringsquaresofcolor(usuallysometypeofrayonorTencel)suspendedatregularintervalsbetweentwoparallelblackthreadsorveryfineyarn.Whenknittedonlargeneedles,thisnoveltyyarncanproduceaverylacydrapeandelegantlook.
Kathmandu
InspiredbytheethnicflavorofIndia’sflamboyantlycolorfulclothing,richvibrantcolorsandembroideryfindtheirwayintothissleevelesstop.Thebodicefeaturesprincessshapinglinesthataredefinedbyraisedslippedstitches.Thegentlyflaredpeplumendsinundulatingfolds,thankstoafluidbambootapeyarn.Chain-stitchcrochetandembroideryembellishments(Frenchknots,daisy,andflystitches)highlightthelowU-necklineshapeandstrengthentheartistryofthedesign.Beasboldasthecolorandtrythistopoverleggingsandheelsfortop-shelfclass!
FINISHEDSIZE
About33(35,37,39,41,43,45)"(84[89,94,99,109,114.5]cm)bustcircumference.Shellshownmeasures35"(89cm).
YARN
Sportweight(#2Light).
Shownhere:SouthWestTradingCompanyOasis(100%soysilk;240yd[219m]/100g):#063red(MC),5(6,6,6,7,7,7)balls;#065sapphire(CC)1ball.
NEEDLES
SizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;markersandopen-ringmarker(m);sizeE/5
(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle;sharp-pointsewingneedle;contrastingthread.
GAUGE
23stsand30rows=4"(10cm)inStst.
BackWithMC,CO232(242,242,252,252,262,272)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
BegandendwithaWSrow,workinStst(knitRSrows;purlWSrows)for3rows.
DecRow1:K1(selvedgest),placemarker(pm),k21(22,22,23,23,24,25),k2tog,pm;repfrom9moretimes,k1(selvedgest)—222(232,232,242,242,252,262)stsrem.
Work3rowseven.
DecRow2:K1,slipmarker(slm),knitto2stsbeforenextm,k2tog,slm;repfrom9moretimes,k1—10stsdec’d.
Work3rowseven.
Repthelast4rows11moretimes—102(112,112,122,122,132,142)stsrem.
Nextrow:K1(selvedgest),slm,[knittom,removem]1(0,2,0,3,1,0)time(s),[knitto2stsbeforenextm,k2tog,slm]8(10,6,10,4,8,10)times,[knittom,removem]1(0,2,0,3,1,0)time(s)—94(102,106,112,118,124,132)stsrem;piecemeasuresabout7½"(19cm)fromCO.
WithWSfacing,BOallstspurlwise,workingthefirst2stsandthelast2stsasp2togforsizes35and45only—94(100,106,112,118,124,130)stsrem.
Donotcutyarn.Enlargelastloopandinsertballthroughthelooptosecure.
BodiceWithRSfacingandyarnalreadyattached,pickupandknit1stinbackloopofeachBOst—94(100,106,112,118,124,130)sts.
Purl1(WS)row.
Row1:(RS)K26(28,30,32,34,36,38),sl1pwise,k40(42,44,46,48,50,52),sl1kwise,k26(28,30,32,34,36,38).
Row2:Purl.
Repthese2rowsuntilpiecemeasures7(7,6¾,6½,6½,6,6)"(18[18,17,16.5,16.5,15,15]cm)frompick-uprow.
PrincessShaping
Note:Armholeshapingisintroducedwhileprincessshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Row1:(RS)Knitto2stsbeforeslippedst,sl1,k1,psso,sl1pwise,M1L(seeGlossary),knittonextslippedst,M1R(seeGlossary),sl1kwise,k2tog,knittoend—nochangetostitchcount.
Row2:Purl.
Replast2rows12(13,14,15,16,17,18)moretimes.
ShapeArmholesAtthesametimewhenpiecemeasures9(9,9½,9½,10,10,10)"(23[23,24,24,25.5,25.5,25.5]cm)frompick-uprow,endingwithaWSrow,BO4(5,5,5,5,5,5)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3(4,4,4,4,4,4)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO3(2,2,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,4,2,2,2)rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,2,2,2)stsatbegofnext0(0,0,0,2,2,4)rows—20(22,22,26,28,28,32)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow1(1,2,1,1,2,1)more
time(s)—70(74,78,82,86,90,94)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure6¼(6½,6¾,6¾,7¼,7¼,7¼)"(16(16.5,17,17,18.5,18.5,18.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckMarkcenter20(20,22,22,22,22,22)sts.
WithRSfacing,knittom,joinnewyarnandBOcenter20(20,22,22,22,22,22)sts,knittoend—25(27,28,30,32,34,36)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO8(8,8,8,8,9,9)stsateachneckedgeonce,thenBO4(4,4,4,4,5,5)stsonce—13(15,16,18,20,20,22)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7¼,7½,7½,8,8,8)"(18[18.5,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworksameasbackuntilarmholesmeasure3(3,3,3,3½,3½,3½)"(7.5[7.5,7.5,7.5,9,9,9]cm)andpiecemeasuresabout12(12,12½,1½,13½,13½,13½)"(30.5[30.5,31.5,31.5,34.5,34.5,34.5]cm)frompeplumpick-uprow.
ShapeNeckMarkcenter12(12,12,12,12,14,14)sts.
WithRSfacing,knittom,joinnewyarnandBOcenter12(12,12,12,12,14,14)sts,knittoend—29(31,33,35,37,38,40)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO5(5,5,5,5,6,6)stsateachneckedgeonce,thenBO3sts1(1,2,2,2,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts2(2,1,1,1,1,1)time(s)—17(19,20,22,24,24,26)stsremeachside.
Decrow:(RS)Forrightshoulder,k1,k2tog,knittoend;forleftshoulder,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’deachside.
Work3rowseven.
Repthelast4rows3moretimes—13(15,16,18,20,20,22)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7¼,7½,7½,8,8,8)"(18[18.5,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FinishingUsingthesteammethod(seeGlossary),blocktomeasurements.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
SeamsPlace13(15,16,18,20,20,22)heldrightbackstsontooneneedleand13(15,16,18,20,20,22)heldrightfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOststogforrightshoulder.Repforleftshoulder.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams,beingcarefultomatchtopofpeplumonfrontandback.
ArmbandsWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatunderarmseam,pickupandknit45(46,47,47,49,49)stsevenlyspacedtoshoulderseamand45(46,47,47,49,49)ststocenterofunderarm—90(92,94,94,98,98)ststotal.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.Purl1rnd,thenknit1rnd.
BOallstspurlwise.
NeckbandWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightshoulderseam,pickupandknit59(59,61,61,61,63,63)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneckand68(68,70,70,70,74,74)stsevenlyspacedalongfrontneck—127(127,131,131,131,137,137)ststotal.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.Purl1rnd,thenknit1rnd.
BOallstspwise.
EmbroideryWithcontrastingthread,workrunningsts(seeGlossary)tomarkplacementforembroideryabout¾"(2cm)fromneckedgeonfrontandbackandmakingaU-shapeabout2"(5cm)longand1¼"(3.2cm)wideatcenterfront.
WithCC,crochethook,andbegatrightshoulderseam,workcrochetchainstitch(seeGlossary)alongrunningstitchguide.Tofinish,worklastchainst1stawayfromfirststworked,cutyarn,andpullcutendthroughlastloop.
Threadtailonneedleandinsertneedlebehindthefirstchainst,stayingonRSofwork,thenbacktoWSatsamepointwherethecutendemergedfromthelastchainst.
WithCCthreadedonatapestryneedle,workdaisystswithFrenchknots,flystitch,andFrenchknotsasshowninphotos.
Lightlysteamtosetsts.
OrigamiFlower
Flatteringdiagonalssweepacrossthefrontofthiswhimsical,yetelegant,V-neckshelltoseparatestripesfromsolids.Sleevelessandslightlyshapedatthewaist,aharmonioustriadiccolorarrangementdefineseachsectionofconstruction.Forthisversion,colorsaresimilarinvalueforasoftlook—feelfreetogetboldwithyourowncombinations.Thecuriouslyinventivethree-dimensionalfoldedflowerisoptional;knitaplainbandforasportierlook.Thecomfortofcottonandtheclassictextureoflinenareblendedinthisyarn,givingyouthebestofbothfibers.
FINISHEDSIZE
About32(34,36,38,40,42,44,46)"(81.5[86.5,91.5,96.5,101.5,106.5,112,117]cm)bustcircumference.
Shellshownmeasures34"(86.5cm).
YARN
Lightweight(#2Fine).
Shownhere:ClassicEliteAllegoro(70%organiccotton,30%linen;152yd[139m]/50g):#5685orangezest(MC)4(5,5,5,6,6,6,7)balls;#5656larkspur(A)and#5616parchment(B),1(1,2,2,2,2,2,2)ball(s)each.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):16"(40cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;open-ringmarker;sizeE/4(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BackWithMCandlargerneedle,CO99(105,111,117,121,127,133,139)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Set-uprow:(WS)Purl.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Row2:Purl.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore.
WorkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures3"(7.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWS
row.
Decrow:(RS)K2,k2tog,knittolast4sts,ssk,k2—2stsdec’d.
Work5rowseven.Repthelast6rows8moretimes—81(87,93,99,103,109,115,121)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13"(33cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K2,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast3sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k2—2stsinc’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—87(93,99,105,109,115,121,127)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures16"(40.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholes
BO3(3,4,5,4,5,5,5)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,2,2,2,2)rows,thenBO0(0,0,02,2,2,2)stsatbegoffoll0(0,0,0,4,4,4,6)rows—77(83,83,87,87,91,97,99)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K2,k2tog,knittolast4sts,ssk,k2—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow0(2,1,1,1,2,3,3)moretime(s)—75(77,79,83,83,85,89,91)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LowerFrontWithMC,COandworkasforbackuntilatotalof5(5,5,4,4,4,4,4)decshavebeenworkedateachsideedgeand1(1,1,5,5,5,5,5)row(s)evenhasbeenworkedafterthelastdecrow—89(95,101,109,113,119,125,131)stsrem.
RightFront
Note:Rightfrontcurveandneckshapingandarmholeshapingareintroducedwhilesideshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Contshapingrightsideedge(endofRSrows)asestablished,andatthesametimeshapefrontcurveatbegofRSrowsasfoll:BO5(5,8,8,5,7,5,7)sts2(5,1,1,6,1,8,1)time(s),thenBO4(0,5,4,4,5,0,5)sts3(0,4,6,1,6,0,7)
time(s),thenBO3sts3times,thenBO2sts5times—41(44,47,51,53,56,59,61)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittoend.
Dec1stinthismanneratbegofeveryRSrow23moretimes.
[Repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven]10times—34stsdec’dtotal.
Alsoatthesametime,whenpiecemeasures16"(40.5cm)fromCO,shapearmholeasfoll.
SHAPEARMHOLEAtarmholeedge(begofWSrows)BO3(3,4,5,4,5,5,5)stsonce,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)sts1(1,2,2,1,1,1,1)time(s),thenBO0(0,0,02,2,2,2)sts0(0,0,0,2,2,2,3)times—5(5,8,9,11,12,12,14)stsdec’d.
Decrow:(RS)Knittolast4sts,k2tog,k2—1stdec’d.
Dec1statarmholeedgeinthismannereveryRSrow0(2,1,1,1,2,3,3)moretime(s)—7(8,9,11,11,12,14,16)stsremwhenallfront,armhole,andneckshapingiscomplete.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LeftFront
Notes:Leftfrontcurve,neck,side,andarmholeshapingareeachintroducedinprogression;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
AandBalternateevery2rows;pickupthedesiredcoloratbegofeveryRSrow,carryingtheunworkedyarnlooselyalongleftsideedge.
WithB(A,B,A,A,B,B,B)andlargerneedle,CO5(4,4,3,5,3,6,9)sts.Donotjoin.
Purl1WSrow,thenknit1RSrow.
Nextrow:(WS)Usetheknittedmethod(seeGlossary)toCO4sts,purlCOsts,purltoend.
Nextrow:Changecolorandknit1row.
Nextrow:UsetheknittedmethodtoCO4sts,purlCOsts,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows0(1,2,3,3,4,4,4)moretime(s)—8(12,16,20,20.24,24,24)stsCO.
Conttoalternatecolorsevery2rows,shapefrontcurveasfoll:UsetheknittedmethodtoCO3stsatbegofnext3WSrows,thenCO2stsatbegoffoll5WSrow—32(35,39,42,44,46,49,52)ststotalCOonfrontedge(includinginitialCO).
Incrow:(RS)Knittolastst,M1(seeGlossary),k1—1stinc’d.
Inc1statendofeveryRSrowinthismanner18moretimes—19stsinc’dtotal.
Thenincinthismannerevery4rows4times—4stsinc’d.
Atthesametimebegonthe2nd(3rd,1st,2nd,2nd,3rd,3rd,3rd)color-changerow,shapesideasfoll.
SHAPESIDEDecrow:(RS)K2,ssk,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Repdecrowevery6rows1(1,2,2,2,3,3,3)moretime(s)—2(2,3,3,3,4,4,4)stsdec’dtotal.
ContworkingCOsasestablished,workrightsideedgeevenuntilpiecemeasures4¾"(12cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K2,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,worktoend—1stinc’d.
Work7rowseven.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepincrowoncemore—3stsinc’dtotal.
Workevenonsideedgeinstripesasestablisheduntilsideedgemeasures7¾"(19.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
SHAPEARMHOLE
Note:Frontcurveshapingcontinuesasarmholeisshaped;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionbeforeproceeding.
Contshapingfrontcurveasestablished,atarmholeedge(begofRSrows)BO3(3,4,5,4,5,5,5)stsonce,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)sts1(1,2,2,1,1,1,1)time(s),thenBO0(0,0,02,2,2,2)sts0(0,0,0,2,2,2,3)times—5(5,8,9,11,12,12,14)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K2,k2tog,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statarmholeedgeinthismannereveryRSrow0(2,1,1,1,2,3,3)moretime(s)—6(8,10,11,13,15,16,18)armholestsdec’dtotal.
Contincolorstripesevenalongarmholeedgeuntilarmholemeasuresabout2¼(2¼,2¼,2¾,2¾,2¾,3¼,3¼)"(5.5[5.5,5.5,7,7,7,8.5,8.5]cm).
SHAPENECKContfrontshapingandcolorstripesasestablishedandworkingpurlwise,atneckedge(begofWSrow),BO5sts2times,thenBO4stsonce,thenBO3stsonce,thenBO2sts3times—23neckstsBO.
Decrow:(RS)Knittolast3sts,k2tog,k1—1stdec’d.
RepdecroweveryRSrow8(8,8,8,8,6,6,5)moretimes—18(19,20,22,22,23,25,27)stsremwhenallfrontcurveandarmholeshapingiscomplete.
Contevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontBandWithAandsmallerneedle,CO11sts.Donotjoin.
Short-Row1:WithWSfacing,p5,wrapnextst(seeGlossary),turnworksoRSisfacing,k5.
ConteveninStst,hidingwrapwhenyoucometoit,untilpiecemeasuresaboutabout22½(23,23,23½,23½,23½,24,24)"(57[58.5,58.5,59.5,59.5,59.5,61,61]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.Donotcutyarn.Placestsonholder.
FinishingUsethesteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary)toblockpiecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
Assembling
Layfrontpiecesonflatsurfacewithfrontbandbetweenthecenterfronts,withleftedgeofbandtorightcenterfrontandrightedgeofbandtoleftcenterfront.
Useopen-ringmarkerstomarkbothedgesofthebandatthebegoftheleftfrontV.Pininplaceuptothemarkers.
WithA,begatsideedge,andusingamattressstwith½stseamallowance(seeGlossary),sewleftedgeofbandtorightfronttomarkedposition.
SewrightedgeofbandtoleftfrontfromsideedgetobegofV-neck.
Measure4"(10cm)fromopen-ringmarkersandplace2moreopen-ringmarkersintoedges.Foldthebandtobringthemarkerstog(creatinganoutwardfoldinthebandfortheorigamiflower;Figure1)andpinbandtorightfrontfrommarkertoshoulder,adjustingbandlengthbyaddingorsubtractingrowsasnecessarytoendatrightfrontshouldersts.
Sewbandfromshouldertom,thenworkarunningst(seeGlossary)throughbothlayersoffoldacrossbandandbacktoseamlinetosecurethefold.Dropyarntouselater.
JoinShouldersPlace18(19,20,22,22,23,25,27)rightfrontsts(including11bandsts)ontooneneedle,place18(19,20,22,22,23,25,27)leftfrontstsontoasecondneedle,andplace75(77,79,83,83,85,89,91)backstsontoathirdneedle.HoldrightfrontandbackneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtogand,with
MC,usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBO18(19,20,22,22,23,25,27)rightfrontandrightbackststogforrightshoulder.BOthenext39backstssingly,thenusethethree-needlemethodtoBO18(19,20,22,22,23,25,27)leftfrontststogwithrembackstsforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithMCthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowancetosewsideseams.
OrigamiFlowerAlignoutwardfoldlineoverseam(Figure2),thenfoldoutsideedgestocenterofband(Figure3),andwhipstitch(seeGlossary)throughalllayerstosecure.
NeckbandWithA,smallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightshoulderseam,pickandknit37stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneck,47stsalongleftfrontneckedge,and32stsalongrightfrontneckedge—116ststotal.Placemarker(pm)andjoinforworkinginrnds.
Rnd1:[K1,p1]40times,k1,p2tog,k1,p2tog,[k1,p1]15times—114stsrem.
Rnd2:[K1,p1]40times,ssk,k1,k2tog,continribtoendofrnd—112stsrem.
Rnd3:Keepinginpatt,BO79sts,sl2ststogknitwise,k1,p2sso,BOtoend.
ArmbandsWithMC,smallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknitabout88(92,94,102,102,104,112,114)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.
Joinforworkinginrnds.Workk1,p1ribfor1rnd.BOallstsinpatt.
Weaveinlooseends.Steamseams,borders,andflowertosetsts.
SportZip
Attentiontodetailisthehallmarkofthissportylittlejacket.Alternatingtexturesofstockinetteandreversestockinettedefinetheverticalshapingandaccentthetriangledetailatthecenterbackyoke.Theloweredgesofthebodyandsleevesarehemmedwithfacings(whicharejoinedalongtheway)thatcreatedoubledfabricforstabilityandarereminiscentofwell-tailoredgarments,completewithfauxseams.Thezipperprovidesaboldcontrasttothetailoredlookandistoppedoffwitharibbedcollarandatabbedtwo-buttonclosure.
FINISHEDSIZE
About37½(41½,45½,49½)"(95[105.5,115.5,126]cm)bustcircumference,zipped.
Cardiganshownmeasures37½"(95cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:TahkiStacyCharlesCottonClassic(100%mercerizedcotton;108yd[100m]/50g):#3605olive,11(13,14,16)skeins.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir)andsetof4or5double-pointed(dpn).
Edging:sizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)cirandsetof4or5dpn.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Contrastingwasteyarnforprovisionalcast-on;F/5(3.75mm)crochethook;tenmarkers(m),atleastoneofwhichisremovable;open-ringmarkers;tapestryneedle;18(20,20,22)"(45.5[51,51,56]cm)separatingzipper;sharp-pointsewingneedle,pins,waxandmatchingthread;two⅝"(1.5cm)buttons.
GAUGE
20stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
NOTE
Whenworkingthejoiningrndofthesleevecuffs,youmightfinditeasiertoworkinsmallsectionsbyremovingthewasteyarnfromjustafewstitchesatatimeandworkingthesestitcheswiththeircorrespondinglivestitches,thenproceedingtothenextgroupofstitches.
BodyWithlargercirneedleandusingthecrochetchainmethod(seeGlossary),
provisionallyCO184(204,224,244)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1row,[knit1row,purl1row]6timesforfacing,endingwithaWSrow.
Changetosmallerneedleandknit3rows,endingwithaRSrow—1garterridgeonRS.
Changetolargerneedleandpurl1row.[Knit1row,purl1row]6times.
CarefullyremovewasteyarnfromprovisionalCOandplace184(204,224,244)exposedstsontosmallercirneedle.
Joiningrow:FoldfabricsoWSfacetogandneedlesareparallelwiththefacingstsbehindthebodysts,andworkp2togusing1stfromfacingtogwith1stfromgarmentbody;repfromtoendofrow,workingthebarbetweenthefirstandlaststsoffacingthroughthebackloopforthelastst—still184(204,224,244)sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P46(51,56,61),k1(fauxseamst;kniteveryrow),p90(100,110,120),k1(fauxseamst;kniteveryrow),p46(51,56,61).
Row1:(RS)K20(22,24,26),placemarker(pm),p15(16,17,18),pm,k11(13,15,17),pm,k1,pm,k15(18,21,24),pm,p60(64,68,72),pm,k15(18,21,24),pm,k1,pm,k11(13,15,17),pm,p15(16,17,18),pm,k20(22,24,26).
Row2:(WS)P20(22,24,26),slipmarker(slm),k15(16,17,18),slm,p11(13,15,17),slm,k1,slm,p15(18,21,24),slm,k60(64,68,72),slm,p15(18,21,24),slm,k1,slm,p11(13,15,17),slm,k15(16,17,18),slm,p20(22,24,26).
Slippingmarkerseveryrow,repthelast2rows3(5,5,7)moretimes—9(13,13,17)rowstotalaftergarterridgeatjoiningrow.
Decrow:(RS)K20(22,24,26),slmp15(16,17,18),slm,k1,ssk,knittonextm,slm,k1,slm,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm,p60(64,68,72),slm,k1,ssk,knittonextm,slm,k1,slm,knitto3stsbeforenextm,k2tog,k1,slm,p15(16,17,18),slm,k20(22,24,26)—4stsdec’d.
Work7rowseveninpattasestablished.Repthelast8rowsonce,thenrepdecrowoncemore—172(192,212,232)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures9(10,10,11)"(23[25.5,25.5,28]cm)fromgarterturningridge,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K20(22,24,26),slm,p15(16,17,18),slm,*workleftliftedinc
(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittonextm,slm,k1,slm,,knitto1stbeforenextm,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,slm,*p60(64,68,72),slm,repfromtoonce,p15(16,17,18),slm,k20(22,24,26)—4stsinc’d.
Work7rowseveninpattasestablished.Repthelast8rowsoncemore—180(200,220,240)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures13½(15,15,16½)"(34.5[38,38,42]cm)fromgarterturningridge,endingwithaWSrow.
DivideforArmholesWithRSfacing,k20(22,24,26),slm,p15(16,17,18),slm,k7(8,10,12),BOthenext7(9,9,9)stswhileremovingmarkerswhenyoucometothemforrightunderarm,k11(13,16,19),slm,p60(64,68,72),slm,k11(13,16,19),BOthenext7(9,9,9)stswhileremovingmarkerswhenyoucometothemforleftunderarm,k7(8,10,12),slm,p15(16,17,18),slm,k20(22,24,26)—42(46,51,56)stsremforeachfront;82(90,100,110)stsremforback.
Placebothsetsoffrontstsontowaste-yarnholders.
BackYoke
Note:Sidepanelandcenterbacktriangleshapingareworkedatthesametimeasarmholeshaping;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
ShapeArmholesWithWSfacing,joinyarnatleftarmholeedge.BO3stsatbegofnext0(2,4,6)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(0,0,0)rows—78(84,88,92)stsrem.
Work1WSroweven.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,workinpatttolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow1(2,2,2)moretime(s)—74(78,82,86)stsremwhendecsarecomplete.
Atthesametimeshapesidepanelsasfoll.
ShapeSidePanelsShapingrow:(RS)Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1f&b(seeGlossary),purlto1stbeforenextm,p1f&b,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend.
Keepinginpatt,repshapingrowevery4throwuntil2stsrembeforefirstm.
Nextrow:(RS)K2tog,slm,p1f&b,purlto1stbeforenextm,p1f&b,ssk.
Nextrow:Knit,removingmarkersasyoucometothem.
Alsoatthesametimewhenarmholemeasures2(2¼,2¼,2½)"(5[5.5,5.5,6.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow,shapecenterbacktriangleasfoll.
ShapeCenterBackTriangleMarkcenter2stswithopenmarkers.
Nextrow:(RS)Workingsideshapingasestablishedandkeepinginpatt,purltomarkedcentersts,slm,k2,slm,purltoend.
Work3rowsevenasestablished.
Nextrow:Workto2stsbeforem,p2tog,slm,workLLIinnextst,workRLIinnextst,slm,ssp(seeGlossary),worktoend.
Work3rowsevenasestablished.
Nextrow:Workto2stsbeforem,p2tog,slm,workLLIinnextst,knitto1stbeforenextm,workRLIinnextst,slm,ssp,purltoend
Work3rowsevenasestablished.Repthelast4rowsuntilthereare22stsbetweenmarkers.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
RightFrontYokeTransfer42(46,51,56)heldrightfrontststolargercirneedleandjoinyarnatarmholeedgewithWSfacing.
ShapeArmholeAtarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO3sts0(1,2,3)time(s),thenBO2sts1(0,0,0)time—40(43,45,47)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)Workinpatttolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows1(2,2,2)moretime(s)—38(4042,44)stsrem.
Atthesametime,after8rowshavebeenworked,shapesidepanelasfoll.
ShapeSidePanelShapingrow:(RS)K20(22,24,26),purlto1stbeforem,p1f&b,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend.
Keepinginpatt,repshapingroweveryRSrowuntil2stsremafterlastmarker.
Nextrow:(RS)K20(22,24,26),purlto1stbeforem,p1f&b,removem,ssk.
Workeveninpattasestablisheduntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm).
Alsoatthesametime,whenarmholemeasures3(3½,3½,4)"(7.5[9,9,10]cm),endingwithaWSrow,shapecenterfrontpanelasfoll.
ShapeCenterFrontPanel
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedatthesametimeasthecenterfrontpanelisshaped;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionbeforeproceeding.
Nextrow:(RS)Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1f&b,purltoend.
Nextrow:Knittom,purltoend.
Work2rowseveninpattasestablished.
Repthefirst2rows8moretimes—11(13,15,17)stsbeforem,27stsafterm.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO5stsonce,thenBO3sts1(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts3(3,2,2)times—24(26,27,29)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)P1,p2tog,purltoend—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows0(0,1,1)time—23(25,25,27)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsonwaste-yarnholder.
LeftFrontYokeTransfer42(46,51,56)heldleftfrontststolargercirneedleandjoinyarnatcenterfrontedgewithWSfacing.
Work1WSroweveninpattasestablished.
ShapeArmholeAtarmholeedge(begofRSrows),BO3sts0(1,2,3)time(s),thenBO2sts1(0,0,0)time(s)—40(43,45,47)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,workinpatttoend—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows1(2,2,2)moretime(s)—38(4042,44)stsrem.
Atthesametime,after8rowshavebeenworked,shapesidepanelasfoll.
ShapeSidePanelShapingrow:(WS)P20(22,24,26),knitto1stbeforem,k1f&b,slm,p1,ssp,purltoend.
Keepinginpatt,repshapingroweveryWSrowuntil2stsremafterlastmarker.
Nextrow:(WS)P20(22,24,26),knitto1stbeforem,k1f&b,removem,ssp.
Workeveninpattasestablisheduntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm).
Alsoatthesametime,whenarmholemeasures3(3½,3½,4)"(7.5[9,9,10]cm),endingwithaWSrow,shapecenterfrontpanelasfoll.
ShapeCenterFrontPanel
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedatthesametimeasthecenterfrontpanelisshaped;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionbeforeproceeding.
Nextrow:(RS)Purlto1stbeforem,p1f&b,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,knittoend.
Work2rowseveninpattasestablished.
Repthefirst2rows8moretimes—27stsbeforem,11(13,15,17)stsafterm.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,atneckedge(begofWSrow),BO5stsonce,thenBO3sts1(1,2,2)time(s),thenBO2sts3(3,2,2)times—24(26,27,29)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)Purltolast3sts,p2tog,p1—1stdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows0(0,1,1)time—23(25,25,27)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
SleevesUsingthecrochetchainmethod,provisionallyCO41(45,50,53)stsallontosmallercirneedle.Dividestsasevenlyaspossiblebetween3or4dpn.Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds,beingcarefulnottotwiststs.
Rnd1:Knit.
Rnd2:Knittolastst,p1(seamst).
Repthelast2rnds5moretimes—12rndstotal.
Turningridge:Knit1rnd,thenpurl1rnd,thenknit1rnd—1garterridgeonRS.
Changetolargerdpn.
WorkRnd2,thenrepRnds1and2fivemoretimes,thenworkRnd2oncemore—13rndstotalfromturningridge.
Joiningrnd:CarefullyremovewasteyarnfromprovisionalCOandplaceexposedstsontosmallerdpn(seeNotes),foldfabricsoWSoffabricfacetogandneedlesareparallelwiththefacingstsbehindthesleevests,andworkp2tog(1stfromeachneedle);repfromtoendofrnd,workingthebarbetweenfirstandlaststoffacingthroughthebackloopforthelastst.
Workevenfor8rnds,workingtheseamstingarterst(alternateknit1rnd,purl1rnd).
Incrnd:K1,workLLIinnextst,knittolast3sts,workRLIinnextst,k1,workseamstasnecessarytomaintaingarterstpatt—2stsinc’d.
Work7rndseven.Repthelast8rnds12(13,13,14)moretimes,changingtocirneedlewhennecessary—65(71,76,81)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures16½(17,17½,18)"(42[43,44.5,45.5]cm)fromturningridge.
ShapeCapNextrnd:Knittolast4sts,BO7stsremovingmwhenyoucometoit,knittoend—58(64,69,74)stsrem.
Workingbackandforthinrows,BO2(3,3,3)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,4)rows—54(54,59,60)stsrem.
Purl1WSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow13moretimes—26(2631,32)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext0(0,2,2)rows,thenBO5stsatbegoffoll2rows—16(16,17,18)stsrem.
BOallsts.
FinishingUsingthewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace74(78,82,86)heldbackstsontolargercirneedleandplace23(25,25,27)heldrightfrontstsand23(25,2527)heldleftfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithWSoffabrictog(seamwillbevisibleonRS),usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBO23(25,25,27)rightfrontststogwithfirst23(25,25,27)backstsforrightshoulder.BOcenter28(28,32,32)backneckstssingly,thenBO23(25,25,27)leftfrontststogwithrembackstsforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithcrochethook,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevecapsintoarmholes,matchingfauxsideandsleeveseamsandmatchingcentersleevecapstoshoulderseams,easingincapfullnessasnecessaryandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin.
CenterFrontBordersWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatlowerrightcenterfront,pickupandknit90(100,100,110)stsevenlyspacedtoneckedge,workingthroughbothlayersofhemandfacing.Donotjoin.
Knit4rows.WithWSfacing,BOallstsknitwise.
Begatneckedge,repforleftfrontedge.
NeckbandWithsmallercirneedle,usethelong-tailmethod(seeGlossary)toCO9sts.Donotturnwork.Contwithworkingyarnatrightfrontneck,pickupandknit24(26,28,28)stsevenlyspacedalongrightfrontneckedge,27(27,31,31)stsacrossbackneck,and24(26,28,28)stsalongleftfrontneckedge,turnworkandusethecablemethod(seeGlossary)toCO9morests—93(97,105,105)ststotal.
Knit1WSrow—1garterridgeonRS.
Row1:(RS)Sl1knitwisewithyarninback(kwisewyb),p1,k1;repfromtoend.
Row2:(WS)Sl1purlwisewithyarninfront(pwisewyf),k1,p1;repfromtoend.
Buttonholerow:Sl1kwisewyb,p1,k1,yo,k2tog,work6sts,yo,k2tog,worktoend.
RepRow2,thenrepRow1.
WithWSfacing,BOallstsasfoll:Sl1pwisewyf,k1,psso,[p2tog,passthelaststoverthisone]4times,BOinpatttolast9sts,[p2tog,passthelaststoverthis
one]4times,p1,passthelaststoverthisone.
Weaveinlooseends.Lightlysteam-blockseamstosetsts.
ApplyZipperWorkingonaflatsurface,placeclosedzipperundercenterfrontgarterstborderssothatzipperteethjustshow.Alignloweredgesandpinforplacement.Alignupperedges,ensuringthatthecenterfrontbordersarethesamelength(don’tstretch)andpinforplacement.Pinborderstozipperbetweenthefirsttwogarterridges.UnzipzipperandcheckWSforevenapplication.Drawsewingthreadacrosswaxtwiceandand“press”threadquicklyunderhotirononironingboardtostrengthenthethread.WithRSfacing,usebackstitches(seeGlossary)tosewzipperinplace,removingpinsasyougo.
Laprightcollarextensionoverleftandmarkbuttonplacementonleftcollarextension.Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,sewbuttonsoppositebuttonholes.
SprayWSofbuttonapplicationwithwatertosetsts.
KnowYourYarn:MercerizedCottonJohnMercerofEnglandinventedthemercerizationprocessin1844,butitwasnearlyfiftyyearsbeforeH.A.Loweimprovedandpopularizedthetreatment.Mercerizationincreasesluster,strength,andaffinityfordyeonlongcottonfibers.Duringtheprocess,achemicalstructuralalterationcausesthecellwallstoenlargeandhaveagreaterreflectingsurface.Knittersenjoytheresultingsofterfeelandthemoreradiantcolor.
BoldAran
Forthosewholovecables,thistopoffersacontemporarytwisttotheexpected.Onelargecenteredcableprovidesverticalfocusasitelongatesandflattersthefigure.Theexaggeratedcableincludestwistedstitchesflankedbypurlstitchesfordefinition;accentsofseedstitchaddtothetexturaldistinction.Forabitofextraease,thelowercenterfrontisgentlygathered.Knittedwithsoytapeyarn,theoveralleffectisquitefluid,liftingtheAranconceptintoaversatilecategory—athomeineverythingfromdressytocasual.
FINISHEDSIZE
About33¾(35¾,37¼,40¼,41¾,44,45¾,47¼)"(85.5[91,94.5,102,106,112,116,120]cm)bustcircumference.
Tunicshownmeasures37¼"(94.5cm).
YARN
Worstedweight(#4Medium).
Shownhere:SouthWestTradingPhoenix(100%soysilk;175yd[160m]/100g):#506turquoise,6(7,7,7,8,8,8,9)balls.
NEEDLES
SizeU.S.9(5.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;markers(m);tworemovable(open-ring)
markers;sizeH/8(5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
19stsand26rows=4"(10cm)inStst.
BackCO87(91,95,101,105,111,115,119)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Row2:(WS)K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
Continseedstasestablisheduntilatotalof14rowshavebeenworked,endingwithaWSrow—piecemeasuresabout2"(5cm)fromCO.
ChangetoStst(knitRSrows;purlWSrows)andworkevenuntilpiecemeasuses4¼"(11cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—85(89,93,99,103,109,113,117)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures8½"(21.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Repdecrow—83(87,91,97,101,107,111,115)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures12¾"(32.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Repdecrow—81(85,89,95,99,105,109,113)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures17"(43cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO3(3,3,4,4,4,5,5)stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,4,4,4,4)rows—71(75,75,79,79,85,87,91)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows0(1,1,2,1,2,2,3)moretime(s)—69(71,71,73,75,79,81,83)stsrem.
ConteveninStstuntilarmholesmeasure6½(7,7½,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(16.5[18,19,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckUseremovable(open-ring)markerstomarkthecenter19sts.
WithRSfacing,knittom,BOcenter19sts,knittoend—25(26,26,27,28,30,31,32)stsrem.
Workingeachsideseparatelywithadifferentballofyarn,BO7stsatneckeachedgeonce—18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7½,8,8,8,8,8½,8½)"(18[19,20.5,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholders.
Front
Note:Sideandarmholeshapingareintroducedwhilethecablepatternisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
CO97(101,105,113,117,121,125,129)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(RS)[K1,p1]13(14,15,17,18,19,20,21)times,k1,placemarker(pm),p1,k1throughbackloop(tbl),k2,k1tbl,p1,pm,[k1,p1]15times,k1,pm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,pm,[k1,p1]13(14,15,17,18,19,20,21)times,k1.
Row2:(WS)[K1,p1]13(14,15,17,18,19,20,21)times,k1,slipmarker(slm),k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,[k1,p1]15times,k1,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,[k1,p1]13(14,15,17,18,19,20,21)times,k1.
Repthese2rows6moretimes—14rowscompleted;piecemeasures2"(5cm)fromCO.
Nextrow:(RS)K27(29,31,35,37,39,41,43),slm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,slm,[k1,p1]15times,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,slm,k27(29,31,35,37,39,41,43).
Nextrow:(WS)P27(29,31,35,37,39,41,43),slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,[k1,p1]15times,k1,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,p27(29,31,35,37,39,41,43).
Repthelast2rowsuntilpiecemeasures4¼"(11cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:K1,k2tog,workinpatterntolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Conteveninpatt,repdecrowwhenpiecemeasures8½"(21.5cm)andagainwhenpiecemeasures12¾"(32.5cm)fromCO.
Atthesametime,whenpiecemeasures6¼"(16cm)fromCO,shapecenterfrontseed-stitchpanelandbigcableasfolls:
Set-uprow:(RS)Knitto2stsbeforefirstm,workaleftliftedincrease(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,removem,p2tog,replacem,workseedstasestablishedto1stbeforenextm,pm,ssp(seeGlossary)whileremovingmtodoso,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,workarightliftedincrease(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittoend.
Nextrow:(WS)Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,workinseedstasestablishedtonextm,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows13moretimes.
Nextrow:Knitto2stsbeforefirstm,LLIintonextst,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,slm,(slip1,k2tog,psso),slm,p1,k1tbl,k2,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,RLIintonextst,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,k1,slm,k1,p1tbl,p2,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Cablerow:(RS;decrow)Knittom,slm,sl7stsontocnandholdinbackofwork,p1,k1tbl,k2tog,k1tbl,p1,thenp1,k1tbl,k2tog,k1tbl,p2togfromcn,slm,knittoend—90(94,98,106,110,114,118,122)stsrem;secondsidedechasbeenworked).
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
ShapeLowerMiddleCableRow1:(RS)Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,[p1f&b(seeGlossary)]2times,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend.
Row2:(WS)Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,pm,k2,pm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Row3:Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1f&bandpminthecenteroftheresultingsts,k1,p1,p1f&bandpminthecenteroftheresultingsts,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend.
Row4:Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,workinseedstasestablishedtonextm,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows2moretimes,working2morestsintoseedstsectioneveryWSrow—12stsinseedstsectionbetweenmarkers.
Decrow:(RS)Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,work12stsinseedst,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,ssk,knittoend—86(90,94,102,106,110,114,118)stsrem;thirdsidedechasbeenworked.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,pm,work12stsinseedst,pm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore—84(88,92,100,104,108,112,116)stsrem.
Workeveninpattasestablisheduntilpiecemeasures16"(40.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Nextrow:(RS;decrow)Knittom,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,removem,p2tog,replacem,workseedstasestablishedto1stbeforenextm,pm,sspwhileremovingmtodoso,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,knittoend—82(86,90,98,102,106,110,114)stsrem.
Nextrow:(WS)Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,workseedstasestablishedtonextm,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
ShapeUpperMiddleCableRow1:(RS)Knitto1stbeforem,workLLIinnextst,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,removem,p2tog,replacem,workseedstasestablishedto1stbeforenextm,pm,sspwhileremovingmtodoso,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,k1,RLIinnextst,knittoend.
Row2:(WS)Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,workseedstasestablishedtonextm,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows3moretimes.
Nextrow:Knittom,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,removem,p2tog,replacem,sspwhileremovingmtodoso,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,slm,knittoend—80(84,88,96,100,104,108,112)stsrem.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend.
Cablerow:(RS)Knittom,sl5stsontocnandholdinbackofwork,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,thenp1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1fromcn,knittoend.
DivideforV-Neck
Note:Neckshapingisworkedasarmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
Nextrow:(WS)Purltom,slm,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,thenplacethese40(42,44,48,50,52,54,56)rightfrontstsonholdertoworklater;k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,slm,purltoend—40(42,44,48,50,52,54,56)stsremforleftfront.
LEFTFRONTDecrow:(RS)Knitto3stsbeforem,k2tog,k1,slm,p1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1—39(41,43,47,49,51,53,55)sts.
Nextrow:(WS)K1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows3(1,1,3,3,1,0,0)moretime(s).
Keepinginpattasestablished,repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven.Repthelast4rows6(8,8,7,7,8,9,9)moretimes—11(11,11,12,12,11,11,11)neckstsdec’dtotal.
Atthesametime,whenpiecemeasures17"(43cm)fromCO,shapearmholeasfoll:
Atarmholeedge(begofRSrows),BO3(3,3,4,4,4,5,5)stsonce,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)sts1(1,2,2,2,2,2,2)time(s).
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,worktoendinpattasestablished—1stdec’datarmholeedge.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows0(1,1,2,1,2,2,3)moretime(s)—6(7,9,11,12,13,14,15)armholestsremoved;23(24,24,25,26,28,29,30)stsrem:5stsforcableand18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)stsforshoulder.
Contevenifnecessaryuntilarmholemeasures7(7½,8,8,8,8,8½,8½)"18(19,20.5,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm).
Place5cablestsontooneholder,placerem18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)shoulderstsontoanotherholder.
RIGHTFRONTReturnrightfrontstsontoneedleandrejoinyarnreadytostartaRSrow.
Decrow:(RS)P1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1,pm,k1,ssk,knittoend—1stdec’d.
Nextrow:Purltom,k1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1.
Repthelast2rows3(1,1,3,3,1,0,0)moretime(s).
Keepinginpattasestablished,repdecrow,thenwork3rowseven.
Repthelast4rows6(8,8,7,7,8,9,9)moretimes—11(11,11,12,12,11,11,11)neckstsdec’dtotal.
Atthesametime,whenpiecemeasures17"(43cm)fromCO,shapearmholeasfoll:
Atarmholeedge(begofWSrows),BO3(3,3,4,4,4,5,5)stsonce,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3,3)sts1(1,2,2,2,2,2,2)time(s).
Decrow:(RS)Workinpattasestablishedtolast3sts,ssk,k1—1stdec’datarmholeedge.
Work1WSroweven.
Repthelast2rows0(1,1,2,1,2,2,3)moretime(s)—6(7,9,11,12,13,14,15)armholestsremoved.
Contevenifnecessaryuntilarmholemeasures7(7½,8,8,8,8,8½,8½)"18(19,20.5,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm).
Place5cablestsontooneholder,placerem18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)shoulderstsontoanotherholder.
BACKNECKBORDERReturn5leftfrontcablestsontoneedle.
Row1:(RS)P1,k1tbl,k1,k1tbl,p1.
Row2:(WS)K1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,k1.
Repthese2rowsuntilbordermeasures12"(30.5cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsonholder.
SleevesCO33(33,37,37,37,37,43,43)sts.Donotjoin.
Row1:(RS)K1,p1;repfromtolastst,k1.
RepRow1untilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1f&b,ktolast2sts,k1f&b,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work5rowseveninStst.
Repthelast6rows13(13,14,14,14,11,12,11)moretimes—61(61,67,67,67,61,69,67)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll:
FORSIZES44(45¾,47¼)"ONLY[Repincrow,work3rowseven]5(3,5)times—61(61,67,67,67,71,75,77)sts.
ALLSIZESWorkevenuntilpiecemeasures16½(17,17,17,17,17½,17½17½)"(42[43,43,43,43,44.5,44.5,44.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,4,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll6(6,8,8,8,8,8,8)rows—43(43,45,45,45,49,47,49)stsrem.
Dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow5(5,6,6,6,5,4,5)times—33(33,33,33,33,39,39,39)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext6rows,thenBO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,4,4,4)rows—15stsrem.
BOallsts.
FinishingUsingthelightsteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurement,encouraginglowercenterfrontseedsttogatherintodrapingfolds(donotstretchflat).Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)heldrightbackshoulderstsontooneneedleandcorresponding18(19,19,20,21,23,24,25)heldrightfrontshoulderstsontoanotherneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOststog.
Repforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stitchseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.
LightlysteamseamsfromWS.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseams,matchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseam,andeasingfullnessatsleevetop.Withcrochethookandworkingfrombody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin,useslip-stcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevetobody.LightlysteamseamfromWS.
BackNeckBorderPinbackneckborderinplace,begatleftshoulder,makingaclockwisecircleloopatcenterbackneck,andconttorightshoulder.
Place5stsofrightcableborderontoonedpnand5stsofbackneckborderontoaseconddpn.Cutyarnleavingan18"(45.5cm)tail.Threadtailontoatapestryneedleand,workingfromtheouterneckedgewithRSfacing,usetheKitchenerst(seeGlossary)tografttheststog.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usevertical-to-horizontalgrafting(seeGlossary)tojoininnerpurl-stedgeofbordertobackneck.Usearunningst(seeGlossary)tocatchundersideofborderatcenterofcircletosecuretheloop.
Weaveinlooseends.LightlysteamseamsfromWS,andfinger-presstoreduceanybulk.
JaneAustenSpencer
TheSpencer,adaptedforwomen’swearfromagentleman’sridingjacket,debutedaround1800.Seeminglyovernight,theclose-fitting,waist-length,narrow-sleevedlittlejacketbecameaRegencyfashionstapleforwomen’soutdoorwear.ThislacyversioncombinestheappealingproportionsofashortlengthwithadeepU-necklineforagracefulframe.Thechevronlacepatternrevealscolorsfromthelayerunderneathtocreateasoftwatercoloreffect.Pairitwithacoupleoflayersofcoloredcamisolespeekingoutaboveandbelow,andaccessorizewithyourfavoritestyleofnecklace:bold,delicate,oreclectic.
FINISHEDSIZE
About32(36,38,41,44,46.5)"(81.5[91.5,96.5,104,112,118]cm)bustcircumference,buttoned.
Cardiganshownmeasures36"(91.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:PlymouthGrass(65%cotton,35%hemp;115yd[105m]/50g):#9090paleolive,7(8,8,9,10,11)balls.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.7(4.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:twosizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Twoopen-ringmarkers(m);wasteyarnforholdingsts;tapestryneedle;five⅝"(1.5cm)buttons.
GAUGE
20stsand24rows=4"(10cm)inlacepattonlargerneedle.
Note:Tocheckgauge,CO25stsandworkcomplete24-rowrepeat;pieceshouldmeasure5"(12.5cm)wideand4"(10cm)tall.
BackWithsmallerneedle,CO81(88,95,102,109,116)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Knit3rows,thenpurl1row.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkRows1–24ofLacechart(seebelow)2(2,3,3,3,3)times,thenWorkRows1–121(1,0,0,1,1)moretime,endingwithaWSrow—piecemeasuresabout10½(10½,12½,12½,14½,14½)"(26.5[26.5,31.5,31.5,37,37]cm)fromCO.
Lace
ShapeArmholes
Note:Maintainlacepattasmuchaspossiblewhenshapingarmhole;iftherearenotenoughststoworkadecforeveryyoincrease,workthosestsinStstinstead.
BO3stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,4,4)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,6,6,8)rows—71(78,81,84,85,88)stsrem.
DecRow1:(RS)K1,k2tog,worktolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Nextrow:Purl.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore—67(74,77,80,81,84)stsrem.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholesmeasure6½(7,7,7,7½,7½)"(16.5[18,18,18,19,19]cm).
ShapeNeck
Markcenter29(32,33,34,35,36)sts.
Set-uprow:(RS)Keepinginpatt,worktofirstm,joinnewballofyarnandBO29(32,33,34,35,36)sts,worktoend—19(21,22,23,23,24)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,BO6(6,7,8,8,8)stsateachneckedgeonce—13(15,15,15,15,16)stsrem.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholesmeasure7½(8,8,8,8½,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placeallstsontowaste-yarnholder.
RightFrontWithsmallerneedle,CO39(46,46,53,53,60)sts.Donotjoin.
Knit3rows,thenpurl1row.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkRows1–24ofLacechart2(2,3,3,3,3)times,thenworkRows1–111(1,0,0,1,1)moretime,endingwithaRSrow—piecemeasuresabout10½(10½,12½,12½,14½,14½)"(26.5[26.5,31.5,31.5,37,37]cm)fromCO.
ShapeArmhole
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.Maintainlacepattasmuchaspossiblewhenshapingarmhole;iftherearenotenoughststoworkadecforeveryyoincrease,workthosestsinStstinstead.
BO3stsatbegofnext1(1,1,1,2,2)WSrow(s),thenBO2stsatbegoffoll1(1,2,3,3,4)WSrow(s)—5(5,7,9,12,14)stsBO.
Decrow:(WS)Ssp(seeGlossary),worktoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statarmholeedgeinthismannereveryWSrowoncemore—7(7,9,11,14,16)ststotaldec’dfromarmhole.
Atthesametime,whenarmholemeasures1½"(3.8cm),endingwithaWSrow,shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,atneckedge(begofRSrows)BO5stsonce,thenBO3sts2(2,2,3,2,4)times,thenBO2sts2(3,3,3,3,3)times—15(17,17,20,17,23)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K1,ssk,worktoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statneckedgeinthismannereveryRSrow3(6,4,6,6,4)moretimes—13(15,15,15,15,16)stsremafterallarmholeandneckshapingiscomplete.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8,8½,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placeallstsontowaste-yarnholder.
LeftFrontWithsmallerneedle,CO39(46,46,53,53,60)sts.Donotjoin.
Knit3rows,thenpurl1row.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkRows1–24ofLacechart2(2,3,3,3,3)times,thenworkRows1–121(1,0,0,1,1)moretime,endingwithaWSrow—piecemeasuresabout10½(10½,12½,12½,14½,14½)"(26.5[26.5,31.5,31.5,37,37]cm)fromCO.
ShapeArmhole
Note:Neckshapingisintroducedwhilearmholeshapingisinprogress;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.Maintainlacepattasmuchaspossiblewhenshapingarmhole;iftherearenotenoughststoworkadecforeveryyoincrease,workthosestsinStstinstead.
BO3stsatbegofnext1(1,1,1,2,2)RSrow(s),thenBO2stsatbegoffoll1(1,2,3,3,4)RSrow(s)—5(5,7,9,12,14)stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)K2tog,worktoend—1stdec’d.
Dec1statarmholeedgeinthismannereveryRSrowoncemore—7(7,9,11,14,16)ststotaldec’dfromarmhole.
Atthesametime,whenarmholemeasures1½"(3.8cm),endingwithaRSrow,shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckKeepinginpatt,atneckedge(begofWSrows)BO5stsonce,thenBO3sts2(2,2,3,2,4)times,thenBO2sts2(3,3,3,3,3)times—15(17,17,20,17,23)
stsBO.
Decrow:(RS)Worktolast3sts,k2tog,k1—1stdec’d.
Dec1statneckedgeinthismannereveryRSrow3(6,4,6,6,4)moretimes—13(15,15,15,15,16)stsrem.
Workeveninpattuntilarmholemeasures7½(8,8,8,8½,8½)"(19[20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placeallstsontowaste-yarnholder.
SleevesWithsmallerneedle,CO39(39,46,46,53,53)sts.Donotjoin.
Knit3rows,thenpurl1row.
ChangetolargerneedleworkLacechartuntilpiecemeasures2½"(6.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incset-uprow:(RS)K1,M1(seeGlossary),placemarker(pm),workinpatttolastst,pm,M1,k1—2stsinc’d.
Workeveninpattfor5rows.
Note:WorkstsbeforefirstmandaftersecondminStstuntilthereare7sts,thenworkthosestsinestablishedlacepatt.
Incrow:Knittom,M1,slipmarker(slm),workinpatttonextm,slm,M1,knittoend—2stsinc’d.
Workeveninpattfor5rows.
Repthelast6rows11(12,10,11,9,10)moretimes—65(67,70,72,75,77)sts.
Workeveninpattuntilpiecemeasures16½(17,17,17½,17½,18)"(42[43,43,44.5,44.5,45.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCap
Note:Maintainlacepattasmuchaspossiblewhenshapingcap;iftherearenotenoughststoworkadecforeveryyoincrease,workthosestsinStstinstead.
BO3stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2rows—55(57,60,62,65,67)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,workinpatttolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow12(13,13,14,15,15)moretimes—29(29,32,32,33,35)stsrem.
BO3stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO4(4,5,5,5,6)stsatbegoffoll2rows—15(15,16,16,17,17)sts.
BOallsts.
FinishingUsingthesteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
Seams
Place13(15,15,15,15,16)heldrightbackstsononeneedleand13(15,15,15,15,16)heldrightfrontstsontoasecondneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOtheststog.Repforleftshoulder.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.
Pinsleevecapintoarmhole,matchingsideandunderarmseams,matchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseamandeasinginfullnessofcap.Withacrochethook,usetheslip-stitchcrochetmethod(seeGlossary)tojointhepiecestog,workingfromthegarmentbodyside.
BorderWithsmallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatlowerrightfrontcenteredge,pickupandknit55(55,63,63,73,73)stsevenlyspacedalongrightfrontedge,placemarker(pm),35(38,38,38,41,41)stsalongrightfrontnecktoshoulderseam,46(49,52,55,56,57)stsacrossbackneck,35(38,38,38,41,41)stsalongleftfrontneck,pm,and55(55,63,63,73,73)stsalongleftfrontcenteredge—226(235,254,257,284,285)ststotal.
Usingthesecondsmallerneedletoknitbackandforthonbothneedlestoaccommodateallsts,knit1row.
Buttonholerow:K4(4,4,4,5,5),[yo,k2tog,k10(10,12,12,11,11)]4(4,4,4,5,5)times,yo,k2tog,k1,removem,knittoend—5(5,5,5,6,6)buttonholes.
BOallstskwise.
Weaveinlooseends.Lightlysteam-block(seeGlossary)seams.Sewbuttonstoleftfront,oppositebuttonholes.
GemstoneLace
Thistunic-lengthpullovercombinesdifferentlacepatternswithadecorativeribbalancedwithstockinettestitch.Adiagonalrhythmisevidentinthehemlines,asymmetricalV-neck,andstitchtexture,andprovidesadventureinknitting.Thelowerlacepanelsandsleevecuffsareknittedseparately,thensewninplace.Stitchesforthelongsleevesarepickedupandknitteddownwardfromtheshoulders.Knittedwithwet-spunlinenyarn,thistunicoffersexquisitedrapeaswellassheenwhenpressedandacasualmatteappearancewhenleftunpressed.Coordinatethiscomfortableeverydaystylewithskirts,pants,orleggings—whatevermakesyoucomfortable.
FINISHEDSIZE
About37(41,44½,48½)"(94[104,113,123]cm)bustcircumference.
Tunicshownmeasures41"(104cm).
YARN
Sportweight(#2Fine).
Shownhere:LouetEuroflaxSportWeight(100%linen;270yd[247m]/100g):#68steelgrey,5(5,6,7)skeins.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Frontandbacklacepanels:sizeU.S.7(4.5mm):24"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;open-ringmarkers(m);sizeE/4(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
21stsand30rows=4"(10cm)inStstonsmallerneedle,afterblocking.
22stsand23rows=4"(10cm)inpattforbacklacepanelonlargerneedle,afterblocking.
15stsand25rows=4"(10cm)inpattforfrontlacepanelonlargerneedle,afterblocking.
BackWithsmallerneedle,CO97(107,117,127)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1WSrow.
ContinStst(knitRSrows;purlWSrows)untilpiecemeasures22(23,24,25)"(56[58.5,61,63.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontWithsmallerneedle,CO97(107,117,127)sts.
Set-uprow:(WS)P63(68,73,78),placemarker(pm),p1throughbackloop(tbl),k2,p1tbl,pm,p30(35,40,45).
Row1:(RS)Knittom,slipmarker(slm),k1tbl,p2,k1tbl,slm,knittoend.
Row2:Purltom,slm,p1tbl,k2,p1tbl,slm,purltoend.
RepRows1and2untilpiecemeasures14(15,16,17)"(35.5[38,40.5,43]cm)
fromCO,endingwithaRSrow.
Decrow:Purltom,slm,p1tbl,k2tog,p1tbl,slm,purltoend—96(106,116,126)stsrem.
Nextrow:Knittom,slm,k1tbl,p1,k1tbl,slm,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,slm,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl,slm,purltoend.
Nextrow:Knitto2stsbeforem,pm,k1tbl,p1,removem,k1tbl,p1,k1tbl,slm,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,p1tbl,p1;repfromto1stbeforem,p1tbl,slm,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows3moretimes.
Nextrow:Knitto2stsbeforem,pm,k1tbl,p1,removemarker,k1tbl,[p1,k1tbl]tom,removemarker,p1,k1tbl,pm,knittoend.
Nextrow:Purltom,p1tbl,[p1,p1tbl]tom,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows2moretimes.
ShapeNeckWithRSfacing,knitto2stsbeforem,pm,k1tbl,p1,removemarker,[k1tbl,p1]to1stbeforem,k1tbl,removemarker,p1,BO2stskwise,knittoend—54(59,64,69)rightfrontstsrem.Place40(45,50,55)leftfrontstsontowaste-yarnholder.
RIGHTFRONTWork54(59,64,69)rightfrontstsasfoll:
Purl1WSrow.
BO2stsatneckedge(begofRSrows)16times—22(27,32,37)rem.
WorkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures22(23,24,25)"(56[58.5,61,63.5]cm)fromCO.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LEFTFRONTPlace40(45,50,55)heldleftfrontstsontoneedleandrejoinyarnatneckedge,readytoworkaWSrow.
Nextrow:(WS)K1,p1tbl,p1,p1tbl;repfromtom,p1tbl,purltoend.
Nextrow:Knitto2stsbeforem,pm,k1tbl,p1,removem,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Repthelast2rows3moretimes.
Nextrow:(WS)BO2stsinpatt,p1tbl,p1;repfromto1stbeforem,p1tbl,purltoend.
Repthelast2rows8moretimes—22(27,32,37)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures22(23,24,25)"(56[58.5,61,63.5]cm)fromCO.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
JoinShouldersPlace97(107,117,127)heldbackstsontooneneedleand22(27,32,37)heldrightfrontstsontoasecondneedle.HoldtheneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtogandusethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOtheststog.BOthenext53stssinglyforbackneck.Place22(27,32,37)heldleftfrontshoulderstsontoasecondneedleandusethethree-needlemethodtoBOthemofftogwithrem22(27,32,37)backsts.
SleevesMeasure8(8,9,9)"(20.5[20.5,23,23]cm)downfromshoulderseamatsideedgesofbothfrontandbackandmarkforsleeveplacement.Withsmallerneedle,RSfacing,andbegatonemarker,pickupandknit83(83,95,95)stsevenlyspacedtoothermarker.
Knit1WSrow—1garterridgeonRS.WorkeveninStstfor6rows.
Decrow:K2,ssk,knittolast4sts,k2tog,k2—2stsdec’d.
Work5rowseven.
Repthelast6rows17(17,20,20)moretimes—47(47,53,53)stsrem.
Contevenuntilpiecemeasures16(17,17½,18)"(40.5[43,44.5,45.5]cm)frompick-uprow,endingwithaWSrow.BOallsts.
BackLacePanelWithlargerneedle,CO81(89,97,105)sts.Donotjoin.
Set-uprow:K2,p77(85,93,101),k2.
Rows1–38:K2,beginandendasindicatedforyoursize,workBackLacePanelchartover77(85,93,101)sts,k2.
BOallsts.
BackLacePanel
FrontLacePanel
FrontLacePanelWithlargerneedle,usetheknittedmethod(seeGlossary)toCO13(11,11,13)sts.
WorkRow1ofFrontLacePanelchartacross11sts,k2(0,0,2).
NextrowandallWSrows:K2(0,0,2),purltoend.
Keepinginpattasestablished,usetheknittedmethodtoCO11stsatthebegofthenext4(5,5,5)RSrows—57(66,66,68)sts.
AtbegofnextRSrow(Row11[1,1,1]ofchart),usetheknittedmethodtoCO13(11,11,11)sts—70(77,77,79)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll.
SIZES44½(48½)"ONLYAtbegofnextRSrow(Row1[3,3,3]ofchart),usetheknittedmethodtoCO11(13)sts—88(92)sts.
WhenCOiscomplete,workallWSrowsasfolls:K2,purltolast2sts,k2.
ALLSIZESWorkevenon70(77,88,92)stsuntilpiecemeasuresabout6½"(16.5cm)orsameasbackalongright(shortside)edgeofpanel,endingwithaWSrow.
BOallstskwise.
LeftCuffLacePanelWithsmallerneedle,CO7sts.Donotjoin.
Purl1WSrow.
Row1:(RS)UsetheknittedmethodtoCO7sts,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Row2:(WS)Sl1kwise,p1tbl,p1;repfromtolastst,p1tbl.
Row3:UsetheknittedmethodtoCO7sts,p1,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend—21sts.
Row4:Sl1kwise,p1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Repthese4rows2(2,3,3)moretimes—49(49,63,63)sts.
Contforyoursizeasfoll.
SIZES37(41)"ONLYWithRSfacing,usetheknittedmethodtoCO8(8)sts—57(57)sts.
ALLSIZESNextrow:(RS)Sl1kwise,k1tbl,p1;repfrom.
Nextrow:Sl1kwise,p1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Repthelast2rowsuntilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromlastCO,endingwithaRSrow.
BOallstspwise.
RightCuffLacePanelWithsmallerneedle,CO7sts.Donotjoin.
Purl1WSrow.
Row1:Sl1kwise,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Row2:(WS)UsetheknittedmethodtoCO7sts,p1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Row3:Sl1kwise,*k1tbl,p1;reptolastst,k1tbl.
Row4:UsetheknittedmethodtoCO7sts,p1,p1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Repthese4rows2(2,3,3)moretimes—49(49,63,63)sts.
Nextrow:Sl1kwise,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Contforyoursizeasfoll.
SIZES37(41)"ONLYWithWSfacing,usetheknittedmethodtoCO8(8)sts—57(57)sts.
ALLSIZESNextrow:(WS)Sl1kwise,p1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Nextrow:Sl1kwise,k1tbl,p1;repfromtoend.
Repthelast2rowsuntilpiecemeasures2"(5cm)fromlastCO,endingwithaRSrow.
BOallstspwise.
FinishingPressinglightly,steam-block(seeGlossary)piecestomeasurements.Allowtoair-drycompletelybeforemoving.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½stitchseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams,workingfromloweredgetowardunderarmforeachseam.
Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,useawhipstitch(seeGlossary)tosewlacepanelstoloweredgeofgarmentbodyasshownbelow.Usinghorizontalgrafting(seeGlossary),joinlacepanelstoloweredgeofsleevesasshownbelow.
Weaveinlooseends.Steam-pressseamsfromWStosetstsandreducebulk.
KnowYourYarn:LinenLinenmaybetheoldestfiberknowninhistory,judgingfromBiblicalreferencesandsamplesfoundinSwitzerlanddatingbackabout10,000years.Thefiberoflongevity,linenyarnisspunfrom
thelongfibersfoundjustbeneaththebarkofthemulti-layerstemoftheflaxplant.LinenwasarguablythemostimportanttextileintheworldbeforetheIndustrialRevolution.
Strongandinelastic,linenbecomesmoresuppleandsofttothetouchwithuse.Wovenlinenfabricwillcrumple,butagarmentknittedfromlinenyarnwillfeatureallthebestqualitiesofacrisphand,lusciouscolors(duetoitsaffinityfordyes),andcomfortagainsttheskin,allwithoutthewrinkle.
LaceFinery
Thisfittedshellisabalanceofsimplebeautyandjustenoughdetailtoholdyourfocus.TheasymmetricalV-neckplacestheverticallypatternedlacecollaratanartisticangle.Thelaceaddssoftnessandvisualinteresttothestockinettebody.Ifyouwantamorecasuallook,simplyomitthelacecollarforanot-so-basicshell—justpickuptherequirednumberofstitchesaroundtheneck,purloneround,knitoneround,thenbindoffallthestitchespurlwise.Trypairingthistopwithanothersweater...aknittedkimono,perhaps?
FINISHEDSIZE
About32(34,36,38,40,42,44)"(81.5[86.5,91.5,96.5,101.5,106.5,112]cm)bustcircumference.
Shellshownmeasures34"(86.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:TahkiCottonClassicLite(100%cotton;125yd[115m]/50g):#4809teal,6(6,6,7,7,7,8)skeins.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir)plusasecondneedlethesamesizeorsmallerforthree-needlebind-off.
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):16"(60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Removablemarkers;wasteyarnforholdingsts;marker(m);tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
24stsand32rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
STITCHGUIDE
LacePattern(multipleof6sts+1)
Set-uprow:(WS)Purl.
Row1:K1,yo,k1,sl1,k2tog,psso,k1,yo,k1;repfrom.
Row2:Purl.
RepRows1and2forpatt.
BackWithsmallerneedle,CO97(103,109,115,121,127,133)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1(WS)row.WorkRows1and2oflacepatt(seeStitchGuide)untilpiecemeasures1"(2.5cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkeveninStstuntilpiecemeasures3½(3½,3½,4,4,4½,4½)"(9[9,9,10,10,11.5,11.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work7rowseven.
Repthelast8rowsoncemore,thenrepdecrowonceagain—91(97,103,109,115,121,127)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures9(9,9,10,10,10½,10½)"(23[23,23,25.5,25.5,26.5,26.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workleftliftedinc(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workrightliftedinc(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work7rowseven.
Repthelast8rowsoncemore,thenworkincrowonceagain—97(103,109,115,121,127,133)sts.Workevenuntilpiecemeasures14(15,15,15½,15½,16,17)"(35.5[38,38,39.5,39.5,40.5,43]cm)frombeg,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO3(3,3,5,5,5,5)sts,atbegofthenext2rows,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,2,2,2)rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,2,2,2)stsatbegoffoll0(0,0,0,4,4,4)rows—87(93,95,97,97,103,109)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.Repthelast2rows0(0,1,1,1,2,5)moretime(s)—85(91,91,93,93,97,97)stsrem.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasures5½(5½,6,6,6,6½,6½)"(14[14,15,15,15,16.5,16.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeNeckMark21centersts.
WithRSfacing,knittomarkedsts,joinsecondballofyarnandBO21markedcentersts,knittoend—32(35,35,36,36,38,38)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,ateachneckedgeBO10stsonce,thenBO6stsonce,thenBO3(3,3,4,4,4,4)stsonce,thenBO2sts2times—9(12,12,12,12,1414)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholders.
FrontCOandworkasforbackuntilpiecemeasures14(15,15,15½,15½,16,17)"(35.5[38,38,39.5,39.5,40.5,43]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Set-uprow:WithRSfacingandcountingfromrighttoleft,placeopen-ringmarkeronneedleafterthe23rd(26th,29th,32nd,35th,38th,41st)st;count10moreststotheleftandplaceasecondopen-ringmarkeronneedle—10markedstsbetweenmarkers.
ShapeArmholes
Note:Neckshapingbeginswhilearmholeshapingisinprogressforsomesizes;readallthewaythroughthefollowingsectionsbeforeproceeding.
BO3(3,3,5,5,5,5)stsatbegofthenext2rows,thenBO2(2,2,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2(2,4,4,2,2,2)rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,2,2,2)stsatbegoffoll0(0,0,0,4,4,4)rows—10(10,14,18,24,24,24)stsBOforarmholes.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Work1WSroweven.Repthelast2rows0(0,1,1,1,2,5)moretime(s)—2(2,4,4,4,6,12)morestsdec’dforarmholes;12(12,18,22,28,36,36)stsdec’dtotal.
Atthesametime,whenarmholesmeasure2½(2½,3,3,3,3½,3½)"(6.5[6.5,7.5,7.5,7.5,9,9]cm),shapeneckasfoll.
ShapeNeckWithRSfacingandworkingarmholeshapingasnecessary,worktom,BO10markedsts,worktoend.
Placeleftshoulderstsonholdertoworklater.
RIGHTSHOULDERPurl1WSrow.Workingarmholeshapingasnecessary,atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO6(6,6,7,7,7,7)stsonce,thenBO4sts3times,thenBO3sts5times,thenBO2sts8times—9(12,12,12,12,14,14)stsremwhenallarmholeandneckshapingiscomplete.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7½,7½,7½,8,8)"(18[18,19,19,19,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
LEFTSHOULDERWithWSfacing,returnheldleftshoulderststoneedleandjoinyarntoneckedge.
BegwithaWSrowandworkingarmholeshapingasnecessary,work3rowseven.
Decrow:(RS)Knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—1neckstdec’d.
Workingarmholeshapingasnecessary,work3rowsevenatneckedge.
Repthelast4rows7(7,7,8,8,8,8)moretimes—9(12,12,12,12,14,14)stsrem.
Placestsonwasteyarnholder.
FinishingUsingthesteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.Slightlyextendandpineachpointofloweredgelacetoencouragethescallop.Allowtoair-drythoroughlybeforemoving.
JoinShouldersPlace9(12,12,12,12,1414)rightbackstsontooneneedleand9(12,12,12,12,1414)rightfrontstsontoasecondneedle.HoldneedlesparallelwithRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOtheststogforrightshoulder.
Repforleftshoulder.
CollarWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightshoulderseam,pickupandknit76(76,76,78,78,78,78)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneck,placemarker(pm),26(26,30,30,30,30,30)stsalongleftfrontneckedge,pm,and62(62,64,66,66,66,66)stsalongrightfrontneckedge—164(164,170,174,174,174,174)ststotal.Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.Purl1rnd.
BOasfoll:P29(29,33,31,31,31,31),BOpurlwisethenext47(47,43,47,47,47,47)backnecksts,removem,BO26(26,30,30,30,30,30)leftfrontsts,removem,purlrightfrontsts,removem,purlrembacksts—91(91,97,97,97,97,97)stsrem.
Contasfoll:
Row1:(WS)Sl1kwisewithyarninback(wyb),p1,k1;repfromtoend.
Row2:(RS)Sl1pwisewithyarninfront(wyf),k1,p1;repfromtoend.
RepRow1oncemore.
Slippingfirststofeachrow,knit1row,thenpurl1row,thenknit1row.
ChangetolargerneedleandrepRows1and2oflacepattwhileslippingthefirststofeveryrow.
Note:TheWSofthegarmentfoldsovertobecometheRSofthecollar.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures5½"(14cm),endingwithRow1ofpatt.
WithWSofcollarfacing,BOallstsknitwise.
ArmbandsWithsmallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit84(84,92,92,96,98,102)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.Donotjoin.
Knit1WSrow.BOallstspurlwise.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams.Steamseamstosetsts.
Steamcollarflat,avoidingtheribbedandreverseStstturningridge,andpinningthepointsasforloweredgetoencouragescallops.Allowtothoroughlyair-drybeforemoving.
Less-is-MoreTee
Thebasicteeistheworkhorseofanywardrobe.However,basicneedn’ttranslatetodullandboring.Withjustabitoftexturalinterestalongthehem,cuffs,andneckline,thisfashionstaplecanbeknittedinanycolorfromsubtleneutralstoboldaccents.Availableinlong,three-quarter,short,andsleevelessoptions,youcanenjoythissoftcottonnecessityinanyseason,coveringtheentirespectrumofwardrobeneedsfromcasualtoclassic.Accessorizedwithlotsofjewelryornone,layerthistopoveranygarmentstyleforalookthat’suniquelyyours.
FINISHEDSIZE
About34(36,37½,39,41,43,44½,47)"(86.5[91.5,95,99,104,109,113,119.5]cm)bustcircumference.
Teeshownmeasures36"(91.5cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:CascadeUltraPima(100%pimacotton;220yd[200m]/3.5oz[50g]):#3748cadmiumyellow,5(5,6,6,7,7,7,8)skeins.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.5(3.75mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):16"(40cm)cirandanextraneedlethesamesizeorsmallerforthree-needlebind-off.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Wasteyarnforholdingsts;twoopen-ringmarkers(m);sizeE/4(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22½stsand28rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
STITCHGUIDE
TexturedRib(multipleof5sts+2)
Row1:(RS)K2,p3;repfromtolast2sts,k2.
Row2:(WS)Purl.
RepRows1and2forpatt.
BackWithlargerneedle,CO97(102,107,112,117,122,127,132)sts.Donotjoinforworkinginrnds.
WorkRows1and2oftexturedrib(seeStitchGuide)2times,thenworkRow1onceagain.
Nextrow:(WS)Purlandatthesametimedec1(1,2,2,2,1,2,0)st(s)evenlyspaced—96(101,105,110,115,121,125,132)stsrem.
ChangetoStstandworkevenuntilpiecemeasures14½(15,15,15,15,15,15,15½)"(37[38,38,38,38,38,38,39.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeArmholesBO4stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO0(0,2,3,3,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,2,3,3,3)stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,0,0,2,2)stsatbegoffoll2rows,thenBO0(0,0,0,0,0,0,2)stsatbegoffoll2rows—88(93,93,96,97,101,101,104)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow2(3,3,3,2,3,2,2)moretimes—82(85,85,88,91,93,95,98)stsrem.
Contevenuntilarmholesmeasure7(7,7½,7½,8,8,8,8½)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworkasforbackuntilarmholesmeasure4(4,4½,4½,5,5,5,5½)"(10[10,11.5,11.5,12.5,12.5,12.5,14]cm),endingwithaWSrow—82(85,85,88,91,93,95,98)sts.
ShapeNeckMarkcenter12(13,13,14,15,15,15,16)stsforcenterfront.
Nextrow:(RS)Knittom,BOcenter12(13,13,14,15,15,15,16)stsforfront
neck,knittoend—35(36,36,37,38,39,40,41)stsremeachside.
Workingeachsideseparately,ateachneckedgeBO5(5,5,6,6,6,7,8)stsonce,thenBO2stsonce—28(29,29,29,30,31,31,31)stsremeachside.
Dec1stateachneckedgeeveryRSrow8times—20(21,21,21,22,23,23,23)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholemeasures7(7,7½,7½,8,8,8,8½)"(18[18,19,19,20.5,20.5,20.5,21.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
Long-SleeveOptionWithlargerneedle,CO42(42,47,47,47,47,52,52)sts.Donotjoin.
WorkRows1and2oftexturedrib3times,endingwithaWSrow.
ChangetoStstandwork6rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workaleftliftedincrease(LLI;seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workarightliftedincrease(RLI;seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Inc1steachendofneedleinthismannerevery8throw8(9,12,10,7,0,4,2)moretimes,thenevery6throw5(5,1,5,9,18,13,16)time(s)—70(72,75,79,81,85,88,90)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures17(17½,17½,18,18,18,18½,18½)"(43[44.5,44.5,45.5,45.5,45.5,47,47]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapBO4stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,4,4,4)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,2,2,0,0,0)rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,4,4,4,6,6)rows—52(54,57,57,59,61,60,62)stsrem.
Decrow:(RS)K1,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Dec1steachendofneedleinthismannereveryRSrow9(9,10,10,11,11,11,
11)moretimes—32(34,35,35,35,37,36,38)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext2(2,2,2,2,2,2,6)rows,thenBO3stsatbegoffoll4(2,2,2,2,2,2,0)rows,thenBO4stsatbegoffoll0(2,2,2,2,2,2,2)rows—16(16,17,17,17,19,18,18)stsrem.
BOallsts.
Three-QuarterSleeveOptionWithlargerneedle,CO52(52,52,57,57,57,62,62)sts.Donotjoin.
WorkRows1and2oftexturedrib2times,thenworkRow1oncemore.
Nextrow:(Row2ofpatt)P1,[p1f&b(seeGlossary)]0(0,1,0,0,0,0,0)time,purltoend—52(52,53,57,57,57,62,62)sts.
ChangetoStstandwork6(6,6,6,6,4,6,4)rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workLLI(seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workRLI(seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Inc1steachendofneedleinthismannerevery8throw8(6,3,4,2,0,0,0)moretimes,thenevery6throw0(3,7,6,9,10,12,11)times,thenevery4throw0(0,0,0,0,3,0,2)times—70(72,75,79,81,85,88,90)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasuresabout12½(12½,12½,13,13,13,13½,13½)"(31.5[31.5,31.5,33,33,33,34.5,34.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapWorkasforlong-sleeveoption.
Short-SleeveOptionWithlargerneedle,CO62(67,67,72,72,77,77,82)sts.Donotjoin.
WorkRows1and2oftexturedrib2times,thenworkRow1oncemore.
Nextrow:(WS)Purl,andatthesametimeinc2(1,2,1,3,2,5,2)st(s)evenly
spaced—64(68,69,73,75,79,82,84)sts.
ChangetoStstandwork2rowseven.
Incrow:(RS)K1,workLLI(seeGlossary)innextst,knittolast2sts,workRLI(seeGlossary)innextst,k1—2stsinc’d.
Work3rowseven.
Reptheincrowevery2(2,2,2,4,4,4,4)rows2(1,2,2,2,2,2,2)moretime(s)—70(72,75,79,81,85,88,90)sts.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures2½(2½,2½,2½,3,3,3)"(6.5[6.5,6.5,6.5,7.5,7.5,7.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
ShapeCapWorkasforlong-sleeveoption.
FinishingUsingthesteamorwet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.
Note:Ifusingthesteammethod,workonbothrightandwrongsidesofthefabric.
JoinShouldersPlace82(85,85,88,91,93,95,98)heldbackstsontooneneedleand20(21,21,21,22,23,23,23)heldrightfrontstsontoanotherneedle.HoldtheneedlesparallelwiththeRSoffabricfacingtog.Usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBOtheststogforrightshoulder.BOthenext42(43,43,46,47,47,
49,52)backneckstssingly,thenusethethree-needlemethodtoBOrembackststogwith20(21,21,21,22,23,23,23)leftfrontstsforleftshoulder.
NeckbandWithcirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightbackshoulderseam,pickupandknit42(43,43,47,47,47,47,51)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneckand53(52,52,54,58,58,58,59)stsevenlyspacedalongfrontneck—95(95,95,101,105,105,105,110)ststotal.
Placemarker(pm)andjoinforworkinginrnds.
Rnd1:K2,p3;repfrom.
Rnd2:Knit.
Repthese2rndsoncemore.
FollpattforRow1,BOallstsinpatt.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,useamattressstwith1-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideseams.
Usethemattressstwith1-stseamallowanceforsleeverib,changingto½stseamallowance(seeGlossary)forStstportionofsleeve.
Withacrochethook,useslipstcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevecaptoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseamsandmatchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseam,easinginfullnessatcapasnecessaryandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin.
SleevelessOption
ArmholeBorderWithcirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit80(80,85,90,95,95,95,100)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.Workasforneckband.
Weaveinalllooseends.Lightlysteam-blockseams.
KnowYourYarn:PimaCottonAlthoughitsoriginsareinPeru,pimacottonisnamedaftertheNativeAmericanswhofirstcultivateditintheUnitedStates.Pimaisasuperiorblendofextra-longfibers,prizedforitsexceptionalsoftnessandbrilliantluster.
CelticQueen
Body-huggingwiththeslideofsilk,thisdressytopoffersanodtotheCelticinfluenceinknitting.Theextendedshouldersectionscreatesmallsleevecaps,withCelticdesignsshowcasedalongtheshoulders.Thestand-upcollaraccentuatedwithbobblesandtheribbingalongthesidesamplifiestheclose-fitshapingandbringssophisticationtothesleevelessstyle.Workedinasilktapeyarninfusedwithasubtlemetallicfiber,thesofthandofthiseleganttopcanjointhepartyforaneveningoutortopapairofjeanstoampupthecasual.
FINISHEDSIZE
About32¾(35½,38½,40¾)"(83[80,98,103.5]cm)chestcircumference,withsideribrelaxed.
Topshownmeasures32¾"(83cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:TahkiStacyCharlesCollezioneStella(74%silk,26%lurex;76.5yd[70m]/0.880z/25g):#03champagnefizz(A),9(10,11,12)balls;#01silvermist(B),4(4,4,4,)balls.
NEEDLES
Body:sizeU.S.8(5mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir).
Edging:sizeU.S.7(4.5mm):16"(40cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Markers;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22stsand31rows=4"(10cm)inStstonlargerneedle.
BodyWithAandlargercirneedle,CO184(200,216,228)sts.Placemarker(pm)andjoinforworkinginrnds,beingcarefulnottotwiststs.
Rnd1:K1,p2,k2,p2;repfromtolastst,k1.
Repthisrnd3moretimes.
Set-uprnd:K1,[p2,k2]1(1,2,2)time(s),p2,pm,k78(86,86,92),pm,[p2,k2]3(3,5,5)times,p2,pm,k78(86,86,92),pm,[p2,k2]1(1,2,2)time(s),p2,k1.
Continpattasestablished(knittheknitsandpurlthepurls)untilpiecemeasures2¾(3,3½,4)"(7[7.5,9,10]cm)fromCO.
Decrnd:Keepinginpatt,workribtom,ssk,knitto2stsbeforenextm,k2tog,workribtonextm;repfrom—4stsdec’d.
Work7rndseven.
Repthelast8rnds3moretimes—168(184,200,212)stsrem.
Workevenuntilpiecemeasures9½(10,10½,11)"(24[25.5,26.5,28]cm)fromCO,endingwithaWSrow.
Incrnd:Keepinginpatt,workribtom,*k1f&b(seeGlossary),knitto2stsbeforenextm,k1f&b,k1,slipmarker(slm),workribtonextm,repfrom*—4stsinc’d.
Work7rndseven.
Repthelast8rnds2moretimes—180(196,212,224)sts;14(14,22,22)stsineachsiderib,76(84,84,90)stseachinStstforfrontandback.
Workeveninpattuntilpiecemeasures14(15,15½,16)"(35.5[38,39.5,40.5]cm)fromCO,ending3(3,5,5)stsbeforeend-of-rndm.
DivideforArmholesBO6(6,10,10)sts,removingmwhenyoucometoit,k2,p2(k2,p2;p2,k2,p2;p2,k2,p2),slm,knittonextm(front),slm,p2,k2(p2,k2;p2,k2,p2;p2,k2,p2),BO6(6,10,10)sts,k2,p2(k2,p2;p2,k2,p2;p2,k2,p2),slm,workto
nextm(back),slm,p2,k2(p2,k2;p2,k2,p2;p2,k2,p2)—84(92,96,102)stsremeachforfrontandback.
Place84(92,96,102)frontstsontoholdertoworklater.
BackYokeWork84(92,96,102)backstsinrowsasfoll:
Slippingthefirststofeveryrowpwiseandkeepinginpatt,BO2stsatbegofnext4(4,6,6)rows—76(84,84,90)stsrem.
Nextrow:Sl1purlwise,purltoend.
Decrow:(RS)Sl1pwise,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Repthelast2rowsoncemore,thenwork1WSrowagain—72(80,80,86)stsrem.
ShapeRaglanRow1:(RS)K1,ssk,knittolast3sts,k2tog,k1—2stsdec’d.
Row2:P1,p2tog,purltolast3sts,ssp(seeGlossary),p1—2stsdec’d.
Row3:Knit.
Row4:RepRow2.
Row5:RepRow1.
Row6:Purl.
Repthese6rows4(5,5,5)moretimes,thenworkthefirsttworows1(0,0,1)moretime—28(32,32,34)stsrem.
BOallsts.
FrontYokeReturnheldfrontstsontoneedleandrejoinyarnatrightarmholeedge,readyto
begaWSrow.Workbackandforthinrowsasfoll:Slippingthefirststofeveryrowpwiseandkeepinginpatt,BO2stsatbegofnext4(4,6,6)rows—76(84,84,90)stsrem.
Nextrow:Sl1pwise,purltoend.
Decrow:(RS)Sl1purlwise,k2tog,knittolast3sts,ssk,k1—2stsdec’d.
Replast2rowsonce,thenwork1WSrowagain—72(80,80,86)stsrem.
ShapeRaglanWorkRows1–6ofraglanshapingasforback4(5,5,5)times—40(40,40,46)stsrem.
ShapeNeckMarkcenter16(16,16,22)stsforneck.
Contworkingraglandecsasestablished,divideforneckasfoll:WithRSfacing,sl1,ssk,k9,BOcenter16(16,16,22)sts,k9,k2tog,k1—11stsremeachside.
RIGHTFRONTRow1:(WS)P1,p2tog,purltoend—10stsrem.
Row2:(RS)BO5sts,knittoend—5stsrem.
Row3:P1,p2tog,purltoend—4stsrem.
Row4:K1,k2tog,k1—3stsrem.
P3tog,cutyarn,anddrawtailthroughlastlooptosecure.
LEFTFRONTReturn11leftfrontststoneedleandjoinyarntoneckedgeinpreparationtoworkaWSrow.
Row1:(WS)BO5stspwise,purltolast3sts,ssp,p1—5stsrem.
Row2:Knit.
Row3:Purltolast3sts,ssp,p1—4stsrem.
Row4:K1,ssk,k1—3stsrem.
Sssp(seeGlossary),cutyarn,anddrawtailthroughlastlooptosecure.
SleevesWithB,CO56(58,60,62)sts.
Omittingdecreases(workthesestsask1insead),workrows7–8,(5–6,3–4,1–2)ofCablechart.
BegwithRow9(7,5,3),workthroughRow44ofCablechart—14stsrem.
Workrightandleftsleevesdifferentlyasfoll.
RIGHTSLEEVEContfollowingRows45–49ofCablechart,atneckedge(begofRSrows),BO5sts2times,thenBO4stsonce.
LEFTSLEEVEFollowingRows45–49ofLeftSleevechart,atneckedge(begofWSrows),BO5sts2times,thenBO4stsonce.
FinishingUsingthewet-towelmethod(seeGlossary),blockpiecestomeasurements.
JoinSleevestoFrontandBackAlignneckedgeofsleeveswithfrontandbackofgarment,loweredgeofsleevetoStstedgeoffrontandbackatunderarm,andpininplace.Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,useamattressstwith1-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewraglanseams.
NeckbandWithB,smallercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatrightback/sleeveseam,pickupandknit26(30,30,34)stsevenlyspacedacrossbackneck,14stsalongleftsleeve,34(34,34,38)stsalongfrontneck,and14stsalongrightsleeve—88
(92,92,100)ststotal.
Pmandjoinforworkinginrnds.
Purl1rnd.
ChangetoAandknit1rnd,thenpurl1rnd.
ChangetoBandknit1rnd.
Nextrnd:K2,p2;repfrom.
Repthelastrndoncemore.
Bobblernd:K2,p1,lifttheladderbetweenneedlesfromfront,thenknitintothefront,back,front,back,andfrontofthisladder(5stsmadefromladder),turnwork,p5,turnwork,k5,passthe2nd,3rd,4th,and5thstsoverthefirstandofftheneedle,p1;repfrom—22(23,23,25)bobblesmade;110(115,115,125)sts.
Nextrnd:K2,p2tog,p1;repfrom—88(92,92,100)stsrem.
BOallstsinpatt.
Weaveinlooseends.Lightlymistseamstosetsts.
LeftSleeve
Cable
KnowYourYarn:RibbonsRibbonsareamongtheoldestdecorativeadornmentsforclothing,datingbacktothebirthofweaving.ThedemandforribbonincreasedthroughouttheMiddleAgesandRenaissance,asittraveledalongtheSilkRoadtoitsfinalboomintheVictorianera.Thetextileindustryclassifiesribbonasnarrowfabricthatrangesfrom⅛"to12"(3mmto30.5cm)wide.
Moderninnovationshaveproducedaribbonyarninsmalltubesthatmeasureabout⅛"(3mm)widewhenlaidflat.Knittersarethebeneficiariesofthesetechnologicaladvances,abletoseefiberswithsometheirbestcharacteristicsaugmentedthroughthismethodofmanufacture.
Tesserae
Tesseraearethesmallpiecesofstoneorglassusedinancientmosaics.Stonewasusedprimarilyforfloors,whileglassofeveryhuewaspopularforwallandvaultmosaicsinEarlyChristianandByzantinechurches.Thepebblytextureinthisslip-stitchteeisreminiscentofthoseopulentmosaics.Eithershortsleevedorsleeveless,thistopprovidesunexpectedcolorplay—dramaticinblackandwhite,butothercolorpairscanaddbrilliantwardrobeaccents.Trysoftyellowandorange,kiwiandturquoise,cinnamonandeggplant;thecombinationsareendless!
FINISHEDSIZE
About33(36,39,41½,44½,47½)"(84[91.5,99,105.5,113,120.5]cm)bustcircumference.
Teeshownmeasures33"(84cm).
YARN
DKweight(#3Light).
Shownhere:PatonsGrace(100%mercerizedcotton;136yd[125m]/50g):#1104black(A),4(4,5,5,6,6)balls;#1102white(B),4(4,5,5,6,6)balls.
NEEDLES
Bodyandsleeves:sizeU.S.6(4mm):24"(60cm)circular(cir)andextraneedleofsamesizeorsmallerforthree-needlebind-off.
Edging:sizeU.S.4(3.5mm):16"and24"(40cmand60cm)cir.
Adjustneedlesizeifnecessarytoobtainthecorrectgauge.
NOTIONS
Waste-yarnstitchholders;open-ringmarkers(m);sizeE/4(3.5mm)crochethook;tapestryneedle.
GAUGE
22.5stsand42rows=4"(10cm)inslip-stpattonlargerneedle.
STITCHGUIDE
Slip-StitchPattern(multipleof4sts+1)
Row1:(WS)WithA,purl.
Row2:(RS)WithB,k1,sl1purlwisewithyarninback(pwisewyb),sl1purlwisewithyarninfront(pwisewyf),sl1pwisewyb,k1;repfrom.
Row3:WithB,p1,sl3pwisewyb,yo,p1;repfrom.
Row4:WithA,knitandatthesametimedropallyarnoverstofrontofwork.
Row5:WithA,purl.
Row6:WithB,k1,sl1pwisewyb,insertneedlefromfrontundertheloosestrandandknitnextsttogwiththisstrand,sl1pwisewyb,k1;repfrom.
Row7:WithB,p1,sl1pwisewyf,p1,sl1pwisewyf,k1;repfromtolast4sts,[sl1pwisewyf,p1]2times.
Row8:WithA,knit.
Row9:WithA,purl.
Row10:WithB,k1,sl1pwisewyf,k1;repfrom.
Rows11–20:RepRows1–10,reversingcolors.
RepRows1–20forpatt.
BackWithAandsmallerneedle,CO93(101,109,117,125,133)sts.Donotjoinforknittinginrnds.
Knit5rows.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkRows1–20ofslip-stpatt(seeStitchGuide)6(6,7,7,8,8)times,thenworkRows1–7(17,7,17,7,7)oncemore—piecemeasuresabout12½(13½,14½,15½,16½,16½)"(31.5[34.5,37,39.5,42,42]cm)fromCO.
ShapeArmholesBO4stsatbegofnext2(2,2,4,4,6)rows—85(93,101,101,109,109)stsrem.
Keepinginpatt,dec1steachendofneedleeveryRSrow2(4,6,6,6,6)times—81(85,89,89,97,97)stsrem.
Conteveninpattuntilarmholesmeasureabout7(7,8,8,8,8)"(18[18,20.5,20.5,20.5,20.5]cm),endingwithRow17(7,7,17,7,7)ofpatt.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholder.
FrontCOandworkasforbackuntilarmholesmeasure4(4,5,5,5,5)"(10[10,12.5,12.5,12.5,12.5]cm),endingwithaWSrow—81(85,89,89,97,97)sts.
DivideforFrontNeckWithopen-ringmarkers,markcenter13(13,13,13,15,15)sts.
WithRSfacingandkeepinginpatt,worktofirstm,BOcenter13(13,13,13,15,15)sts,worktoend—34(36,38,38,41,41)stsremeachside.
Keepinginpattandworkingeachsideseparately,ateachneckedgeBO5stsonce,thenBO2stsonce,thendec1steveryrightsiderow8times—19(21,23,23,26,26)stsremeachside.
Workevenuntilarmholesmeasuresameasforback,endingwithRow17(7,7,17,7,7)ofpatt.
Placestsontowaste-yarnholders.
Sleeves
WithAandsmallerneedle,CO61(65,69,73,77,81)sts.Donotjoin.
Knit5rows.
ChangetolargerneedleandworkWSRow1ofslip-stpatt.
Incrow:(RS;Row2ofpatt)K1,M1(seeGlossary),continpatttolastst,M1,k1—63(67,71,75,79,83)sts.
Nextrow:(Row3ofpatt)P1,continpatt,workinginc’dstsinStst,p1.
Continpattasestablished,repIncrowevery4throw3moretimes—69(73,77,81,85,89)sts.
Workeveninpattuntilpiecemeasuresabout2¼(2¼,2¼,2¼,3,3)"(5.5[5.5,5.5,5.5,7.5,7.5]cm)fromCO,endingwithRow17(17,17,17,7,7)ofpatt.
ShapeCapKeepinginpatt,BO4stsatbegofnext2rows,thenBO2stsatbegoffoll2(2,2,4,4,4)rows—57(61,65,65,69,73)stsrem.
Dec1stateachendofneedleeveryRSrow18(20,20,20,21,22)times—21(21,25,25,27,29)stsrem.
BO2stsatbegofnext2(2,4,4,4,4)rows—17(17,17,17,19,21)stsrem.
BOallsts.
FinishingSteam-block(seeGlossary)piecestomeasurements,workingfrombothrightandwrongsides.
JoinShouldersPlace81(85,89,89,97,97)heldbackstsontooneneedleand19(21,23,23,26,26)heldrightfrontand19(21,23,23,26,26)heldleftfrontstsontoanotherneedle.WithRStog,usethethree-needlemethod(seeGlossary)toBO19(21,23,23,26,26)rightfrontand19(21,23,23,26,26)rightbackststogforright
shoulder.BOthenext43(43,43,43,45,45)backneckstssingly,thenBOremleftfrontststogwithrembackstsforleftshoulder.
SeamsWithyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,usethemattressstwith½-stseamallowance(seeGlossary)tosewsideandsleeveseams.
Withacrochethook,useslipstcrochet(seeGlossary)tojoinsleevecaptoarmhole,matchingsideandsleeveseamsandmatchingcentersleevecaptoshoulderseam,easinginfullnessatcapasnecessaryandworkingfromthebody(notthesleeve)sideofthejoin.
NeckbandWithA,shortercirneedle,andbegatleftfrontshoulderseam,pickupandknit68(68,68,68,70,70)stsevenlyspacedaroundfrontneckand41(41,41,41,43,43)stsacrossbackneck—109(109,109,109,113,113)ststotal.
Placemarkerandjoinforworkinginrnds.
[Purl1rnd,knit1rnd]2times.
BOallstspwise.
SleevelessOption
ArmholeBorderWithshortercirneedle,RSfacing,andbegatbaseofarmhole,pickupandknit80(86,98,106,106,112)stsevenlyspacedaroundarmhole.
Placemarkerandjoinforworkinginrnds.
[Purl1rnd,knit1rnd]2times.
BOallstspwise.
Weaveinlooseends.Lightlysteam-blockseamstominimizebulk.
GlossaryAbbreviationsbeg(s) begin(s);beginning
BO bindoff
cir circular
cm centimeter(s)
cn cableneedle
CO caston
cont continue(s);continuing
dec(s)(‘d) decrease(s);decreasing;decreased
dpn double-pointedneedles
foll follow(s);following
g gram(s)
inc(s)(’d) increase(s);increasing;increase(d)
k knit
k1f&b knitintothefrontandbackofsamestitch
k2tog knit2stitchestogether
k3tog knit3stitchestogether
kwise knitwise,asiftoknit
m marker(s)
mm millimeter(s)
M1 makeone(increase)
oz ounce
p purl
p1f&b purlintofrontandbackofsamestitch
p2tog purl2stitchestogether
patt(s) pattern(s)
pm placemarker
psso passslippedstitchover
pwise purlwise;asiftopurl
rem remain(s);remaining
rep repeat(s);repeating
RevStst reversestockinettestitch
rnd(s) round(s)
RS rightside
sl slip
slst slipst(slip1stitchpurlwiseunlessotherwiseindicated)
ssk slip,slip,knit(decrease)
st(s) stitch(es)
Stst stockinettestitch
tbl throughbackloop
tog together
WS wrongside
wyb withyarninback
wyf withyarninfront
yd yard(s)
yo yarnover
* repeatstartingpoint
** repeatallinstructionsbetweenasterisks
() alternatemeasurementsand/orinstructions
[] workinstructionsasagroupaspecifiednumberoftimes
Bind-Offs
SlopedBind-OffUsethismethodwhenworkingaseriesofbind-offsingroups,asforshapedshoulders.
Ontherowprecedingthebind-offrow,donotworkthelaststitch.Turnthework(therewillbeonestitchontherightneedletip),bringtheworkingyarntothebackandslipthefirststitchontheleftneedlepurlwise(Figure1).Usetheleftneedletiptolifttheunworkedstitchovertheslippedstitchandofftheneedle(Figure2)—onestitchboundoff.Usethestandardmethodtobindofftherestofthestitchesinthegroup,thenrepeatfrom*foreachgroup.
StandardBind-OffKnitthefirststitch,*knitthenextstitch(twostitchesonrightneedle),insertleftneedletipintofirststitchonrightneedle(Figure1)andliftthisstitchupand
overthesecondstitch(Figure2)andofftheneedle(Figure3).Repeatfrom*forthedesirednumberofstitches.
Three-NeedleBind-OffPlacethestitchestobejoinedontotwoseparateneedlesandholdtheneedlesparallelwiththerightsidesofknittingfacingtogether.Insertathirdneedleintothefirststitchoneachoftwoneedles(Figure1)andknitthemtogether(Figure2),*knitthenextstitchoneachneedlethesameway,thenusetheleftneedletiptoliftthefirststitchoverthesecondandofftheneedle(Figure3).Repeatfrom*untilnostitchesremainonfirsttwoneedles.Cutyarnandpulltailthroughlaststitchtosecure.
Blocking
MistBlockingGenerouslyspraybothrightandwrongsideswithwater.Layonaflatsurface,pintodesireddimensions,ifnecessary,andletdrycompletelybeforemoving.
SteamBlockingPinthepiecestobeblockedtoablockingsurface.Holdanironsetonthesteamsetting½"(1.5cm)abovetheknittedsurfaceanddirectthesteamovertheentiresurface(exceptribbing).Youcangetsimilarresultsbyplacingwetcheeseclothontopoftheknittedsurfaceandtouchingitlightlywithadryiron.Liftandsetdowntheirongently;donotuseapushingmotion.
Wet-TowelBlockingRunalargebathorbeachtowel(ortwotowelsforlargerprojects)throughtherinse/spincycleofawashingmachine.Rolltheknittedpiecesinthewettowel(s),placetherollinaplasticbag,andleaveovernightsothattheknittedpiecesbecomeuniformlydamp.Pinthedamppiecestoablockingsurfaceandletair-drythoroughly.
Buttonholes
One-RowButtonholeWithRSfacing,bringyarntofront,slipthenextstitchpurlwise,returnyarntotheback,slipthenextstitchpurlwise,passthefirstslippedstitchoverthesecondslippedstitchandofftheneedle;repeatfromtwomoretimes(Figure1).Slipthelaststitchontherightneedletiptotheleftneedletipandturntheworksothatthewrongsideisfacing.**Withyarninback,insertrightneedletipbetweenthefirsttwostitchesontheleftneedletip(Figure2),drawthroughaloopandplaceitontheleftneedle];repfrom**threemoretimes,thenturntheworksotherightsideisfacing.Withyarninback,slipthefirststitchandlifttheextracast-onstitchovertheslippedstitch(Figure3)andofftheneedletocompletethebuttonhole.
Cast-Ons
Backward-LoopCast-On
Loopworkingyarnandplaceitonneedlebackwardsothatitdoesn’tunwind.Repeatfrom.
CableCast-OnIftherearenostitchesontheneedles,makeaslipknotofworkingyarnandplaceitontheleftneedle,thenusetheknittedmethodtocast-ononemorestitch—twostitchesonneedle.Whenthereareatleasttwostitchesontheleftneedle,holdneedlewithworkingyarninyourlefthand.*Insertrightneedlebetweenthefirsttwostitchesonleftneedle(Figure1),wrapyarnaroundneedleasiftoknit,drawyarnthrough(Figure2),andplacenewlooponleftneedle(Figure3)toformanewstitch.Repeatfrom*forthedesirednumberofstitches,alwaysworkingbetweenthefirsttwostitchesontheleftneedle.
CrochetChainProvisionalCast-OnWithwasteyarnandcrochethook,makealoosecrochetchain(seepage149)
aboutfourstitchesmorethanyouneedtocaston.Withknittingneedle,workingyarn,andbeginningtwostitchesfromendofchain,pickupandknitonestitchthroughthebackloopofeachcrochetchain(Figure1)fordesirednumberofstitches.Whenyou’rereadytoworkintheoppositedirection,pulloutthecrochetchaintoexposelivestitches(Figure2).
KnittedCast-OnIftherearenostitchesontheneedles,makeaslipknotofworkingyarnandplaceitontheleftneedle.Whenthereisatleastonestitchontheleftneedle,*usetherightneedletoknitthefirststitch(orslipknot)onleftneedle(Figure1)andplacenewloopontoleftneedletoformanewstitch(Figure2).Repeatfrom*forthedesirednumberofstitches,alwaysworkingintothelaststitchmade.
Long-Tail(Continental)Cast-OnLeavingalongtail(about½"[1.3cm]foreachstitchtobecaston),makeaslipknotandplaceonrightneedle.Placethumbandindexfingerofyourlefthandbetweentheyarnendssothatworkingyarnisaroundyourindexfingerandtailendisaroundyourthumb;securetheyarnendswithyourotherfingers.Holdyourpalmupwards,makingaVofyarn(Figure1).*Bringneedleupthroughlooponthumb(Figure2),catchfirststrandaroundindexfinger,andgobackdownthroughlooponthumb(Figure3).Droploopoffthumband,placingthumbbackinVconfiguration,tightenresultingstitchonneedle(Figure4).Repeatfrom*forthedesirednumberofstitches.
Crochet
CrochetChain(ch)Makeaslipknotandplaceitoncrochethookifthereisn’taloopalreadyonthehook.Yarnoverhookanddrawthroughlooponhook.Repeatfromforthedesirednumberofstitches.Tofastenoff,cutyarnanddrawendthroughlastloopformed.
SingleCrochet(sc)*Inserthookintothesecondchainfromthehook(orthenextstitch),yarnoverhookanddrawthroughaloop,yarnoverhook(Figure1),anddrawitthroughbothloopsonhook(Figure2).Repeatfrom*forthedesirednumberofstitches.
Decreases
Slip,Slip,Knit(ssk)Sliptwostitchesindividuallyknitwise(Figure1).Insertleftneedletipintothefrontofthesetwoslippedstitches,andusetherightneedletoknitthemtogetherthroughtheirbackloops(Figure2).
Slip,Slip,Purl(ssp)Holdingyarninfront,sliptwostitchesindividuallyknitwise(Figure1),thenslipthesetwostitchesbackontoleftneedle(theywillbetwistedontheneedle)andpurlthemtogetherthroughtheirbackloops(Figure2).
Embroidery
CrochetChainStitchHoldingtheyarnunderthebackground,insertcrochethookthroughthecenterofaknittedstitch,pullupaloop,inserthookintothecenterofthenextstitchtotheright,pullupasecondloopthroughthefirstlooponthehook.Repeatfrom.
DaisyStitch*Bringthreadedneedleoutofknittedbackgroundfrombacktofront,formashortloop,theninsertneedleintobackgroundwhereitcameout.Keepingtheloopundertheneedle,bringtheneedlebackoutofthebackgroundashortdistanceaway(Figure1),pullloopsnug,andinsertneedleintofabriconfarsideofloop.
FlyStitchWorkingfromtoptobottom,*bringthreadedneedleoutfrombacktofrontatthedesiredplacement;insertneedleashortdistancetotherighttoformaloop,theninsertneedleashortdistancebelow,holdingtheloopbelowthetipoftheneedle.InsertneedletoWSashortdistancebelowloopforstem.Repfrom*.
FrenchKnotBringthreadedneedleoutofknittedbackgroundfrombacktofront,wrapyarnaroundneedleonetothreetimes,anduseyourthumbtoholdthewrapsinplacewhileyouinsertneedleintobackgroundashortdistancefromwhereitcameout.Pulltheneedlethroughthewrapsintothebackground.
RunningStitchBringthreadedneedleinandoutofbackgroundtoformadashedline.
I-Cord
(alsocalledKnit-Cord)Thisisworkedwithtwodouble-pointedneedles.Castonthedesirednumberofstitches(usually3to4).Knitacrossthesestitches,then*withoutturningtheneedle,slidestitchestootherendofneedle,pulltheyarnaroundtheback,andknitthestitchesasusual.Repeatfrom*fordesiredlength.
Increases
BarIncreaseKNITWISE(K1F&B)Knitintoastitchbutleavethestitchontheleftneedle(Figure1),thenknitthroughthebackloopofthesamestitch(Figure2)andsliptheoriginalstitchofftheneedle(Figure3).
PURLWISE(P1F&B)Workasforaknitwisebarincrease,butpurlintothefrontandbackofthesamestitch.
LiftedIncreaseLEFTSLANT(LLI)Insertleftneedletipintothebackofthestitchbelowthestitchjustknitted(Figure1),thenknitthisstitchthroughthebackloop(Figure2).
RIGHTSLANT(LRI)
Knitintothebackofthestitch(inthe“purlbump”)intherowdirectlybelowthestitchontheneedle(Figure1),thenknitthestitchontheneedle(Figure2),andsliptheoriginalstitchofftheneedle.
Make-One(M1)IncreaseNote:Usetheleftslantifnodirectionofslantisspecified.
LEFTSLANT(M1L)Withleftneedletip,liftthestrandbetweenthelastknittedstitchandthefirststitchontheleftneedlefromfronttoback(Figure1),thenknittheliftedloopthroughtheback(Figure2).
RIGHTSLANT(M1R)Withleftneedletip,liftthestrandbetweentheneedlesfrombacktofront(Figure1).Knittheliftedloopthroughthefront(Figure2).
PickUpandKnit
AlongCOorBOEdgeWithrightsidefacingandworkingfromrighttoleft,insertthetipoftheneedleintothecenterofthestitchbelowthebind-offorcast-onedge(Figure1),wrapyarnaroundneedle,andpullthroughaloop(Figure2).Pickuponestitchforeveryexistingstitch.
AlongSelvedgeEdgeWithrightsidefacingandworkingfromrighttoleft,inserttipofneedlebetweenlastandsecond-to-laststitches,wrapyarnaroundneedle,andpullthroughaloop.Pickupandknitaboutthreestitchesforeveryfourrows,adjustingasnecessarysothatpicked-upedgelaysflat.
SeamsBackstitchSeam—HorizontalPinpiecestobeseamedwithrightsidesfacingtogether.Workingfromrighttoleftintothestitchjustbelowthebind-offrow,bringthreadedneedleupbetweenthesecondtwostitchesoneachpieceofknittedfabric,thenbackdownthroughbothlayers,onestitchtotherightofthestartingpoint(Figure1).*Bringtheneedleupthroughbothlayersonestitchtotheleftofthebackstitchjustmade(Figure2),thenbackdowntotheright,throughthesameholeusedbefore(Figure3).Repeatfrom*,workingbackwardonestitchforeverytwostitchesworkedforward.
GraftingHORIZONTALGRAFTINGWorkingwiththebound-offedgesoppositeeachother,rightsidesoftheknittingfacingyou,andworkingintothestitchesjustbelowthebound-offedges,bringthreadedtapestryneedleoutatthecenterofthefirststitch(i.e.,gounderhalfofthefirststitch)ononesideoftheseam,thenbringneedleinandoutunderthefirstwholestitchontheotherside(Figure1).*Bringneedleintothecenterofthesamestitchitcameoutofbefore,thenoutinthecenteroftheadjacentstitch(Figure2).Bringneedleinandoutunderthenextwholestitchontheotherside(Figure3).Repeatfrom*,endingwithahalf-stitchonthefirstside.
KITCHENERSTITCHArrangestitchesontwoneedlessothatthereisanequalnumberofstitchesoneachneedle.Holdtheneedlesparalleltoeachotherwithwrongsidesoftheknittingtogether.Allowingabout½”(1.3cm)perstitchtobegrafted,threadmatchingyarnonatapestryneedle.Workfromrighttoleftasfollows:
Step1.Bringtapestryneedlethroughthefirststitchonthefrontneedleasiftopurlandleavethestitchontheneedle(Figure1).
Step2.Bringtapestryneedlethroughthefirststitchonthebackneedleasiftoknitandleavethatstitchontheneedle(Figure2).
Step3.Bringtapestryneedlethroughthefirstfrontstitchasiftoknitandslipthisstitchofftheneedle.Thenbringtapestryneedlethroughthenextfrontstitchasiftopurlandleavethisstitchontheneedle(Figure3).
Step4.Bringtapestryneedlethroughthefirstbackstitchasiftopurlandslipthisstitchofftheneedle.Thenbringtapestryneedlethroughthenextbackstitchasiftoknitandleavethisstitchontheneedle(Figure4).
RepeatSteps3and4untilonestitchremainsoneachneedle,adjustingthetensiontomatchtherestoftheknittingasyougo.Tofinish,bringtapestryneedlethroughthefrontstitchasiftoknitandslipthisstitchofftheneedle.Thenbringtapestryneedlethroughthebackstitchasiftopurlandslipthisstitchofftheneedle.
VERTICAL-TO-HORIZONTALGRAFTING*BringthreadedtapestryneedlefrombacktofrontintheVofaknitstitchjustbelowthebound-offedge.Inserttheneedleunderoneortwobarsbetweenthefirstandsecondstitchinfromtheselvedgeedgeontheadjacentpiece,thenbacktothefrontofthesameknitstitchjustunderthebound-offedge.Repeatfrom*,strivingtomatchthetensionoftheknitting.
MattressStitchPlacethepiecestobeseamedonatable,rightsidesfacingup.Beginattheloweredgeandworkupwardasfollowsforyourstitchpattern:
SEEDSTForbestresults,usethetailfromthecast-onrowtostarttheseamandalignloweredges.Then,withrightsidesfacingyou,beginningattheloweredgeandworkingupward,insertthreadedtapestryneedleunderthepurlbarattheselvedgeedgeofoneside(Figure1).Alternatefromsidetoside,pullingtheyarninthedirectionoftheseamtopreventstretching,andtocausethepurlbarsoftheseedstitchtomergeintoacontinuoustexture.
STOCKINETTESTITCHWITH1-STITCHSEAMALLOWANCEInsertthreadedneedleunderonebarbetweenthetwoedgestitchesononepiece,thenunderthecorrespondingbarplusthebaraboveitontheotherpiece(Figure1).*Pickupthenexttwobarsonthefirstpiece(Figure2),thenthenexttwobarsontheother(Figure3).Repeatfrom*,endingbypickingupthelastbarorpairofbarsonthefirstpiece.
STOCKINETTESTITCHWITH½-STITCHSEAMALLOWANCEToreducebulkinthemattressstitchseam,workasforthe1-stitchseamallowancebutpickupthebarsinthecenteroftheedgestitchesinsteadofbetweenthelasttwostitches.
Slip-StitchCrochetTobegin,placeaslipknotonacrochethook.Withwrongsidefacingtogetherandworkingonestitchatatime,*insertcrochethookthroughboththicknessesintotheedgestitches(Figure1),grabaloopofyarnanddrawthisloopthroughboththicknesses,thenthroughthelooponthehook(Figure2).
WhipstitchHoldpiecestobesewntogethersothattheedgestobeseamedareevenwitheachother.Withyarnthreadedonatapestryneedle,insertneedlethroughbothlayersfrombacktofront,thenbringneedletobackinaspiral.Repeatfrom,keepingeventensionontheseamingyarn.
Short-Rows
KnitSideWorktoturningpoint,slipnextstitchpurlwise(Figure1),bringtheyarntothefront,thenslipthesamestitchbacktotheleftneedle(Figure2).Turntheworkoverandbringtheyarninpositionforthenextstitch—onestitchhasbeen
wrappedandtheyarniscorrectlypositionedtoworkthenextstitch.Whenyoucometoawrappedstitchonasubsequentrow,hidethewrapbyworkingittogetherwiththewrappedstitchasfollows:Insertrightneedletipunderthewrap(fromthefrontifwrappedstitchisaknitstitch;fromthebackifwrappedstitchisapurlstitch;Figure3),thenintothestitchontheneedle,andworkthestitchanditswraptogetherasasinglestitch.
PurlSideWorktotheturningpoint.Slipthenextstitchpurlwisetotherightneedle,bringtheyarntothebackofthework(Figure1),returntheslippedstitchtotheleftneedle,bringtheyarntothefrontbetweentheneedles(Figure2),andturntheworksothattheknitsideisfacing—onestitchhasbeenwrappedandtheyarniscorrectlypositionedtoknitthenextstitch.Tohidethewraponasubsequentpurlrow,worktothewrappedstitch,usethetipoftherightneedletopickupthewrapfromtheback,placeitontheleftneedle(Figure3),thenpurlittogetherwiththewrappedstitch.
SourcesforYarn
BlueHeronYarns29532CanvasbackDr.,Ste#8Easton,Maryland21601blueheronyarns.com
CascadeYarnsPOBox581681224AndoverParkEastTukwila,WA98188cascadeyarns.com
ClassicEliteYarns16EsquireRd.,Unit2NorthBillerica,MA01862classiceliteyarns.com
DiamondYarn9697Boul.St.Laurent,Ste.101Montreal,QCCanadaH3L2N1and155MartinRossAve.,Unit3Toronto,ONCanadaM3J2L9diamondyarn.com
LouetNorthAmerica3425HandsRd.Prescott,ONCanadaK0E1T0
MistiAlpacaPOBox2532GlenEllyn,Illinois60138mistialpaca.com
Patons320LivingstoneAve.S.Box40Listowel,ONCanadaN4W3H3
PlymouthYarnCompany,Inc.500LafayetteSt.Bristol,PA19007plymouthyarn.com
WestminsterFibers/RowanYarns165LedgeSt.Nashua,NY03060westminsterfibers.cominCanada:10RoybridgeGate,Ste200Vaughan,OntarioL4H3MB
SkacelCollection,Inc.POBox88110Seattle,WA98138skacelknitting.com
SouthWestTradingCompany918S.ParkLn.,Ste.102Tempe,Arizona85281soysilk.com
TahkiStacyCharlesInc./FilaturadiCrosa70-6083rdSt.,Bldg.#12Glendale,NY11385tahkistacycharles.cominCanada:DiamondYarn
EDITORAnnBuddTECHNICALEDITOREveNg
CHARTS&SCHEMATICSRobynChachulaPHOTOGRAPHERJoeHancockPHOTOSTYLISTPamelaChavezHAIR&MAKEUPKathyMacKayTEXTILLUSTRATIONSVickiSquareARTDIRECTORLizQuanCOVER&INTERIORDESIGNJuliaBoylesPRODUCTIONKatherineJackson©2012VickiSquarePhotography©2012JoeHancockAllrightsreserved.
InterweaveAdivisionofF+WMediaInc.201EastFourthStreetLoveland,CO80537interweave.com
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataSquare,Vicki,1954—Lightandlayeredknits:19sophisticateddesignsforeveryseason/VickiSquare.
pagescmISBN978-1-59668-795-0(pbk.)ISBN978-1-59668-894-0(PDF)ISBN978-1-62033-390-7(ePub)1.Knitting--Patterns.I.Title.TT825.S71452013746.43’2041--dc23
2012033946
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