let's make blue jeans: a factory line simulation

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A LESSON FOR GRADE 7 SOCIAL STUDIES GWG: PIECE BY PIECE —A Resource for Alberta Teachers Let’s Make Blue Jeans A FACTORY LINE SIMULATION

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Page 1: Let's Make Blue Jeans: A Factory Line Simulation

A L E S S O N F O R G R A D E 7 S O C I A L S T U D I E S

G W G : P I E C E BY P I E C E—A Resource for Alberta Teachers

Let’s Make Blue JeansA FAC TO R Y L I N E S I M U L AT I O N

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AcknowledgementsThe Aspen Foundation for Labour Education would like to acknowledge the contributions of the following people in the development of this publication.

Writer Barb Maheu

Contributor Charmaine Neth

Video Ballad Maria Dunn, Edmonton-based singer songwriter Don Bouzek, Edmonton’s Ground Zero Productions  Catherine C. Cole, historian

Layout Kelly de Jong

Copy Editing Mary Dunnigan

Cover Picture Credit City of Edmonton Archives EA-275-1185

Other Image Credits Special thanks to the Provincial Archives of Alberta for the use of their still and moving images. Additional images from the City of Edmonton Archives, the Glenbow Archives and Library and Archives Canada.

For more information on AFLE visit our web site at www.afle.ca

Comments regarding this unit can be sent to [email protected]

Copyright © 2016 Aspen Foundation for Labour Education

Let’s Make Blue Jeans—A Factory Line Simulation

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The GWG: Piece by Piece—A Resource for Alberta Teachers

GWG: Piece by Piece—A Resource for Alberta Teachers includes projects, lessons, a video ballad and other

supporting materials that document and explore the personal and working lives of immigrant women who

worked in Edmonton’s Great Western Garment (GWG) factory.

Included in this Resource:

GWG: Piece by Piece—A Resource for Alberta Teachers www.afle.ca (go to Teaching Resources, Aspen Teaching

Units) includes individual projects and lessons for Grades 4, 5, 7, 9, 10 and 12 based upon the Alberta Social

Studies curriculum. These projects and lessons identify Alberta Learning Outcomes, Learning Competencies,

Key Concepts and Inquiry Questions for each grade. Lessons at the lower grade levels are cross-curricular,

integrating drama, music, art, language arts and mathematics. Each project and lesson is based on a song or

songs in the video ballad titled GWG: Piece by Piece.

GWG: Piece By Piece is a 60 minute video ballad, musical performance, with songs written by Juno-nominated

songwriter Maria Dunn, audiovisual materials filmed and edited by Don Bouzek of Edmonton’s Ground Zero

Productions and research interviews and archival materials provided by historian Catherine C. Cole. The

performance features video footage of women who worked at GWG interwoven with songs inspired by their

stories. The eleven songs in the video ballad can also be accessed individually. Each individual segment is

about 10 minutes in length and features video clips of women being interviewed and one song that captures

the essence of their experiences, thoughts, feelings, challenges and aspirations. Themes include:

| the pain and joy of leaving a home country for a new life in Canada, including the women’s tireless efforts to establish their families in Edmonton and provide their children with opportunities that they themselves didn’t have

| working conditions highlighting challenges of the physical working environment and positive collaborative experiences among workers

| the advantages related to English language education

| the union’s role in securing a better working environment

| the impact of Levi-Strauss’ decision to close the plant in 2004

Song lyrics for the video ballad are provided in Appendix B. We also recommend Maria Dunn’s 2012 CD

recording of the songs from this project, titled Piece By Piece, available at: www.mariadunn.com.

Catherine C. Cole has provided the basic history of the GWG factory and its workers, which serves as a

comprehensive teacher backgrounder in Appendix A (see Edmonton’s Great Western Garment Factory).

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The information helps teachers understand important historical events and economic factors that provide

the context for understanding related themes and concepts. Many additional supporting video clips,

archival photographs and teaching ideas can be found in the virtual exhibition Piece by Piece: The GWG Story

http://www.royalalbertamuseum.ca/exhibits/online/GWG/en/index.html on the Royal Alberta Museum

website. We also recommend Catherine C Cole’s book on this topic titled Piece by Piece [Cole, C. (2012). Piece

by Piece. New Brunswick: Goose Lane Editions].

GWG: Piece by Piece—A Resource for Alberta Teachers is freely available to teachers on the Aspen Foundation for

Labour Education website www.afle.ca under Teaching Resources.

Overview:

GWG: Piece by Piece—A Resource for Alberta Teachers

Grade 4 SS 4.2 The Stories, Histories and People of Alberta

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Stories communicated through narratives, oral songs, music, autobiographies, archives

| Fairness (equity) | Strike | Labour union | Inflation

| Diversity of immigrants coming to Alberta

| Diverse groups affect urban life

The Chocolate Bar War: Story ApproachInterpreting the Stories of the Women of GWG: Readers Theatre

Grade 5 SS 5.2 Histories and Stories of Ways of Life in Canada

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Immigration | Primary sources | Secondary sources | Video ballad | Narrative | Ethnicity | Working conditions | Sweatshop

| Stories of immigrants from India, Ukraine, Poland, Russia and Germany

| Effects of economic booms following world wars

A Snapshot of Immigrant Life in Western Canada: Project-based LearningInterpreting the Stories of the Women of GWG: Readers TheatreThe Chocolate Bar War: Story Approach

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Grade 7 SS 7.2 Following Confederation: Canadian Expansions

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Industrialization | Factory system | Cottage system | Assembly line | Piecework (specialization) | Mass production

| Identify the contributions of immigrants from Eastern Europe

| Examine the social and economic effects of the changing roles and images of women in Canadian society (i.e. working conditions)

| Examine the emergence and contributions of large factories in Canada

Let’s Make Blue Jeans—A Factory Line SimulationInterpreting the Stories of the Women of GWG: Readers Theatre

Grade 9 SS 9.1 Issues for Canadians: Governance and Rights

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Collective bargaining/negotiation

| Labour legislation | Labour unions | Collective agreements

| Examine the emergence and impact of labour unions in market and mixed economies

Taking Collective Action: A Simulation Activity

Grade 10 SS 10.1 and 10.2 Living in a Globalizing World

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Globalization | Labour unions | Women in the workplace | Sweatshops

| Explore political, economic, social globalization

| Analyze impacts of globalization on women (gender issues, labour issues)

| Analyze challenges and opportunities presented by globalization to identities and cultures

The Stories Behind Our Clothes: Project-based Learning

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Grade 12 SS 30.1 and 30.2 Understandings of Liberalism

Key ConceptsAlberta Social Studies Learning Outcomes

Project and/or Lessons

| Collectivism | Collective action | Labour union | Feminism | Benefits | Seniority

| Explore factors that may influence individual and collective beliefs and values (gender, ideology)

| Examine historic and contemporary expressions of collectivism

| Explore themes of ideologies (progressivism, gender)

| Analyze collectivism as a foundation of ideology

| Explore opportunities to demonstrate active and responsible citizenship through individual and collective action

GWG: Collectivism in Action

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Let’s Make Blue Jeans—A Factory Line Simulation

Overview:

This three part mini-unit will allow Alberta’s Grade 7 social studies students to participate in an interactive

factory line simulation. The activity will stimulate thinking about the emergence of the factory system in

Canada. In particular, it focuses on the Great Western Garment Factory (GWG) and shows how its workers

contributed to the development of our modern economy. The lessons feature songs and interviews from the

video ballad GWG: Piece By Piece. It documents the experiences of immigrant women who worked at the GWG

factory in Edmonton until it closed in 2004. The unit takes 3 to 4 class periods.

Lesson One Opener — Blue Jean Day

You will ask students to wear their blue jeans to school for this opener lesson. An activity will be undertaken to

begin to think about blue jean manufacture, popularity and origins.

Lesson 2 — Howzit Made? — The Assembly Line Simulation

Inquiry Question—What is it like to work in a factory that makes blue jeans?

Assembly Line Simulation features a hands-on, interactive activity that will help students understand the

workings of the factory system, experience the challenges faced by factory workers and understand ways

factories operate to achieve efficiencies through mass production.

Lesson 3 — Working Conditions in the GWG Factory

Inquiry Question— How did working conditions affect the quality of life for GWG factory workers?

This section highlights working conditions of the women who worked in Edmonton’s GWG factory through

songs, stories and interviews. After hearing the words of the factory workers and participating in the factory

simulation, students will better understand working conditions faced by the women who worked there.

Lesson 4 — Stories of Immigrant Women’s Sacrifices

Inquiry Question— Immigrant women were willing to sacrifice their health and safety working at the GWG

factory; why did they do it?

Despite often challenging working conditions, the women of GWG persisted in their employment. This lesson

focuses on the various motivations for them continuing to work even when it meant giving up their own

comforts. Students will come to appreciate sacrifices they made to improve the lives of their families.

Supporting materials for this unit includes information about concepts related to industrialization

(specialization of labour, piece work and assembly line). Also included are role cards, instructions and the

pattern for making blue jeans for the simulated assembly line.

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Learning Outcomes: Social Studies 7:

7.2.6 Assess, critically, the impacts of social and political changes on individual and collective identities in Canada since 1918 by exploring and reflecting upon the following questions and issues: What are the social and economic effects of the changing roles and images of women in Canadian society (i.e. working conditions, changing family structures)?

7.2.7 Assess, critically, the impact of urbanization and of technology on individual and collective identities in Canada by exploring and reflecting upon the following questions and issues: How did the emergence of large factories in Canada contribute to the development of Canada’s economy?

Learning Competencies:

Key Concepts:

| Industrialization | Factory system

| Cottage system | Assembly line

| Piecework (specialization) | Mass production

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Lesson 1 Opener

Blue Jean DayThe day before doing this lesson, ask students to wear blue jeans to class. Ask them to check the label at home

to determine where their blue jeans were made. Organize groups of 3 to 4 students and tell them that you are

going to ask them to think about how blue jeans are made and consider the system that allows for the mass

production of said jeans.

Time:

one class

Materials:

| Poster paper and felt pens

| Appendix A – Teacher Backgrounder

| Appendix B – Written lyrics for the five songs used in this unit: GWG 3 I Cannot Tell You (The Whole Story), GWG 4 Speed Up, GWG 5 Blue Lung, GWG 6 Lullaby and GWG 9 Immigrant Dreams

| GWG: Piece By Piece complete Video Ballad

Learning Activities:

1. Gallery Walk: Write the following prompts with key words on seven different poster sheets and post these

around the room. Break the class into seven groups (provide them with felt pens) and station them at

different posters. Ask them to record one answer on the poster and then, on a signal, circulate clockwise

around the room to respond to each question:

a. What do your jeans have in common? In other words, what makes blue jeans blue jeans (unique

qualities to these pants)? Keyword - COMMONALITIES

b. Why do you think jeans are so popular? POPULARITY

c. What materials were needed to make your jeans? MATERIALS

d. How much did you pay? What’s the range of prices? PRICE

e. Are they new or second hand? NEW OR SECOND HAND

f. Where were they made? PLACE OF MANUFACTURE

g. Do you think your jeans are scrubbies (or not)? SCRUBBIES

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2. Ask students to notice points that all posters have in common and identify ideas that were different.

Facilitate a whole class discussion after the walk-around keeping in mind the purpose at this point is to

stimulate interest in jean production.

3. End by asking students to think about how their jeans were manufactured. What might the steps have

been in the manufacturing process from beginning to end? Write the sequence on the board based on the

order they suggest.

NOTE: At this point accuracy is not critical.

Lesson 2 Howzit Made?

The Assembly Line Simulation

Inquiry Question:

What is it like to work in a blue jean factory?

This activity engages students in a factory-like simulation, involving seven stations, designed to help them

experience life on the assembly line. You may want some students to make jeans from beginning to end to

simulate cottage industry (pre-industrial). These students will work individually and follow all the instructions

for all seven stations. This will allow you to compare the factory system to the cottage industry production

method where students will stay at one station and specialize in one operation. Eventually you may ask: Which

system produced jeans most efficiently and with the least amount of waste? What are the advantages and

disadvantages of both systems? Why did the factory system become the dominant model?

Time:

one class

Materials:

| A pre-made exemplar of a finished blue jean product (see Appendix E – Pattern to pre-make one pair of jeans in advance for illustration)

| Student Learning Guide 1—Systems of Production: Factory versus Cottage

| Student Learning Guide 2—Exit Slips

| Appendix C – Role Cards (photocopy and cut out cards for distribution according to your class size)

| Appendix D – Materials and Instructions

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| Appendix E – Pattern

| Appendix F – Inspection Quality Control Form

| YouTube Video: Process Design - Garment industry.wmv (3:55) https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=55&v=uVoQJrz0sH8

Preparing for the Assembly Line Simulation | Room set up – preferably a large space

Arrange long tables end-to-end and divide them into 7 sections. If your room is small or limited, organize 7

stations at tables and set up a system to rotate or pass on the products in a systematic manner.

Provide tables for each of the Quality Control Inspectors (one table), the Materials Mangers (one table) and

the Cottage Industry workers (one table for each worker).

| Assigning roles

Each student assigned to the assembly line will have a specific job. Provide a role card to each student

(adjust numbers according to your class size).

| 6 Workers at each of the 7 stations

| 6 Cottage Industry workers who will make jeans by themselves (start to finish)

| 1 Timer person to sound a bell to designate rotations (could be the teacher)

| 3 Inspection for Quality Control – a pre-made pair of perfect jeans will be provided as a model

| 2 Materials Managers

Provide each Inspector with the Inspection Quality Control Form (Appendix F). All jeans, whether made on

the assembly line or individually, will need to pass the quality control inspection or be rejected.

*Keep the rejects to later discuss the cost of mistakes and impact on efficiency.

| Materials and Instructions—see Appendix D. Provide each station with necessary materials and a copy of their instructions. Set up the individual cottage workers at separate tables where they will work by themselves.

| Pattern—see Appendix E. The pattern will need to be overlaid on the paper (simulated fabric) that will be used to construct the jeans.

| Inspection Quality Control Form—see Appendix F. Print one form for each pair of jeans likely to be produced and provide these to Inspectors.

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Learning Activity: Assembly Line Simulation1. Do the simulation for about 30 – 40 minutes. You may need to troubleshoot. Prior to starting, it is a

good idea to show an exemplar of the finished product and provide materials for each station to practice

their job (especially while they are waiting for the jean pieces to come to their station).

* The teacher should play the role of Timer. You can regulate the length of time for each interval of work.

As students become more adept, shorten the time (in other words, speed up the process) and observe the

effect on product quality and worker performance. You should take notes on what you are observing or

ask a student to assist in this. Collect and tabulate the Inspection Quality Control Forms. Determine how

many jeans were successfully completed and how many did not pass inspection. Compile the results and

have this information available for future debriefing. Make a running tab on the white board.

2. Debrief: Immediately after the simulation, ask for students’ initial responses and generate thoughts about

their experiences “working on the line.” | What did it feel like to work on an assembly line? | Would working in a factory be a good job? Why or why not? | How realistic do you think this simulation was?

For students who worked producing jeans the cottage industry method ask: | What was it like to make a pair of jeans start to finish by yourself? | Do you think you were efficient? | What did you like best? Least?

3. View YouTube video clip Process Design - Garment industry.wmv (3:55) which shows assembly line

production of jeans in a Mexican factory https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=55&v=uVoQJrz0sH8

After viewing, provide a few moments for reflection, then ask: | What was the most surprising fact to you? | What was the most interesting thing you learned? | What do you think about the jobs that people do in textile factories? | Does jean-making look like a good job?

4. Address terms/concepts associated with industrialization

Use Student Learning Guide 1 Howzit Made? – An Assembly Line Simulation to guide thinking about key

concepts from the simulation. Place students in groups of 4 (include in each group a variety of roles from

the simulation). Also try to include in each group one student who made jeans individually. After they have

completed the Student Learning Guide 1, lead them in a discussion around each term using the following

sample definitions and prompts. A key for this discussion is provided below.

Provide tabulated information from the Inspector’s Report and discuss the class’ efficiency and compare the

results to those who produced jeans using the cottage method.

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Assessment

Hand in an Exit Slip (run off Student Learning Guide 2). What is the most important thing you have learned

about the factory system from the activities undertaken so far?

You may compile class comments and categorize them. Sending the Exit Slips electronically makes this

faster. Share the compiled list of take-a-ways next class.

Student Learning Guide 1 — KEY

Assembly line – What is meant by the term assembly line? What is the advantage of making clothes using

an assembly line? What was Henry Ford’s role in using the assembly line to produce cars? Check out the

Henry Ford Organization at http://www.thehenryford.org/exhibits/hf/.

Piecework – The factory system requires that workers only do one job over and over. For example they

might be in charge of sewing leg seams or making belt loops. What are the advantages of this type of

production over having each worker make a whole pair of blue jeans one at a time? What does it mean to be

specialized?

Mass Production – This is a method of making objects on an assembly line to produce many standardized

pieces. The machines used in the process have been standardized and organized to build the goods step by

step. What things do you buy that have been mass-produced? Which have not?

Factory System – The factory system is a method of producing goods in an environment outside the home.

It utilizes machines, power sources, requires capital investment and workers. Why did the factory system

become more popular after World War I and fuel the economic boom (large growth in factories, services and

jobs) after World War II?

Cottage Industry – A method of making goods usually in a home situation. The worker makes the entire

product themselves and uses it mainly for personal consumption (i.e. makes the jeans and wears the jeans).

This was the main system for making goods prior to the Industrial Revolution.

Industrialization – This is a method of production that uses the factory system to mass-produce goods

using power, technology and capital investments (money). What are the benefits of living in an industrial

economy? Who benefits most in an industrial economy? Who benefits least? Are workers better off than

they would be under a cottage industry?

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Lesson 3 Working Conditions in the GWG Factory

Inquiry Question:

How did working conditions affect the quality of life for GWG factory workers?

The learning activities and resources featured in this lesson highlight lives of the women who worked in

Edmonton’s Great Western Garment (GWG) factory. Songs and interviews from GWG: Piece by Piece and

the Royal Alberta Museum are used here. These songs and interviews feature working conditions prior to

changes demanded by the workers to improve these conditions. For more information refer to the section

in Appendix A - Teacher Backgrounder (section called All About Efficiency).

Time:

one class

Materials:

| Student Learning Guide 3— How did working conditions affect the quality of life for GWG factory workers?

| Video: Working Conditions in the Edmonton Plant (3:20) http://www.royalalbertamuseum.ca/virtualExhibit/GWG/en/history/edmonton.html#video2-1-1

| YouTube Video: I Love Lucy: The Candy Factory (1:46) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnbNcQlzV-4

| Video Ballad: GWG: Piece by Piece songs GWG 4 Speed Up and GWG 5 Blue Lung

| Appendix A —Teacher Backgrounder (section called All About Efficiency)

Learning Activities:

Provide students with the Student Learning Guide 3—How did working conditions affect the quality of life

for GWG factory workers? After viewing several interviews and listening to their songs, identify working

conditions, provide evidence of their effects and write a paragraph on what they feel about these conditions

from the perspective of a 13-year-old whose mother works at the GWG factory.

1. Play YouTube video — I Love Lucy: The Candy Factory (1:46)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnbNcQlzV-4

This classic video is a good way to introduce the very real issues of the assembly line when the conveyor

belt’s speed was increased in the interest of maximizing output. While the I Love Lucy clip is meant to be

humorous, there is some truth in what actually did occur in factories when increasing production was

a priority.

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2. Hand out Student Learning Guide 3 — How did working conditions affect quality of life for GWG factory

workers? Students can begin to fill it in as the videos are shown.

| Play GWG 4 Speed Up (5:30), a good follow-up to the I Love Lucy clip. Use this segment to discuss the working conditions and sacrifices seamstresses experienced while working on the factory line. See Appendix A for more information on factory speed-ups.

During the simulation, the Timer (teacher) increased the rate of production. Ask—what happened when

that occurred? Did quality improve? Were workers stressed?

The refrain in the song focuses on the idea of speeding up production.

| Why was this an occurrence in factories?

| Why might some workers want the line to speed up?

| Why did the women not just quit when they found the work too strenuous or demanding?

| Play this video from the Royal Alberta Museum’s — GWG Piece by Piece Edmonton’s Great Western Garment Company section, http://royalalbertamuseum.ca/exhibits/online/GWG/en/history/edmonton.html Scroll down to Working Conditions in the Edmonton Plant (3:20)

Merlin Beharry, Janet Cardinal, Anne Ozipko, Sadat Khan, Assunto Dotto, Susan Bui, Kulminder Bolina,

Lillian Wasylynchuk all discuss working conditions and the effects it had on their health.

| Play GWG 5 Blue Lung (5:00)

Working in the factory had many harmful effects on health. Discuss the following questions:

| What conditions existed that impacted workers’ health?

| What is the songwriter referring to by using the term blue lung?

| Why didn’t the workers complain or “make a fuss” when they had trouble breathing?

| Would you sacrifice your health to provide for your family?

Assessment

Hand in Student Learning Guide 3 — How did working conditions affect the quality of life for GWG factory

workers? Use this for formative assessment purposes.

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Lesson 4 Stories of Immigrant Women’s Sacrifices

Inquiry Question:

Immigrant women were willing to sacrifice their health and safety working at the GWG factory; why did they do it?

Despite very challenging working conditions, the women of GWG persisted in their employment mainly

to create better lives for their families. They also made strides improving their working conditions. In

doing so, their traditional roles changed as they influenced the workplace and contributed to Canada’s

modern economy.

Use Student Learning Guide 4 — Why did they do it? to help students understand the factory workers’

motivations for working in the GWG factory. Reinforce the main point that immigrant women persisted in

factory work, even when conditions were unhealthy or unsafe. They did this in order to help their families.

They also made changes to improve factory conditions such as lessening hours of work, wearing of safety

garments, having more breaks and access to natural light.

Time:

one class

Materials

| Student Learning Guide 4 — Why did they do it?

| Poster paper and felt pens

| Video Ballad GWG: Piece by Piece Songs: GWG 3 I Cannot Tell You (The Whole Story), GWG 6 Lullaby and GWG 9 Immigrant Dreams

Learning Activity

Cooperative Jigsaw

Divide the students into groups of three (Home Group). Each person in the group will be assigned a

different song segment (GWG 3 I Cannot Tell You the Whole Story, GWG 6 Lullaby and GWG 9 Immigrant

Dreams). They will become an expert on their song segment (Step 2) and will need to help others in their

Home Group understand it (Step 3).

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1. Opener: Home Group – What Do We Think?

Pose the following scenario and provide question prompts to stimulate a discussion in the Home Groups.

“Think of yourself as about 13 years old. Imagine that you lived in a country experiencing extreme

economic hardship or war. Your family doesn’t feel safe and you are very poor. Your dream is to move to

another country to make a new life. Your family has been accepted to immigrate to Canada.”

| Think about how you would feel about moving away from your home country.

| What would be some of the challenges?

| Why would you do it?

| What worries would you have about making the move?

Have each group list their answers on poster paper.

2. Expert Group—Prepare to Learn and Teach

These song segments all focus on the idea of sacrifice. Divide the class into three large groups based on

one of the three song segments you have assigned. In different areas or separate rooms, ask each group to

listen to their assigned song segment. After doing so, ask them to partner up to answer the questions on

Student Learning Guide 4—Why did they do it? Tell them that later they will be sharing their thoughts and

ideas with their Home Group so it is important to get their part correct.

3. Home Groups – Share and Reflect

The main point here is to understand the motivations for women’s sacrifices working at the factory. When

students have returned to their Home Groups, replay each segment one at a time, pausing after each song

segment to allow the student expert in each Home Group to explain their thinking, lead a discussion and

complete the relevant section of Student Learning Guide 4.

4. Debrief with the whole class

Review the whole activity and draw generalizations from the activity focusing on the idea of sacrifice.

Students should have identified things such as: better lives for their families here and sometimes back

home, independence, better pay, sense of responsibility and so on.

Assessment

Collect Student Learning Guide 4 and provide feedback. A rubric for assessing the final paragraph is provided

and may be modified to suit the class or be translated into grades.

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Follow-up Activities

Guest Speaker

Invite a community member or parent who works in a factory to speak to the class. Generate questions that

students may have regarding manufacturing and work in the factory.

Art

Create an artistic rendition of factory life then and now.

Drama

Dramatize or create tableaux (still pictures using people and focus objects) of scenes of factory life. An

object (such as a sewing machine, pair of scissors, etc.) can help to focus a scene. If you have an old

fashioned overhead transparency machine use it for spotlighting. Cut a hole in a piece of paper and put it

on the glass. Turn the lights out in the room and the effect is dramatic as students hold their poses.

Rap

For inspiration, use any of the songs used so far to create a rap that conveys a similar sentiment.

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STUDENT LEARNING GUIDE 1

Howzit Made? — An Assembly Line Simulation

Inquiry Question: Immigrant women were willing to sacrifice their health and safety working at the GWG factory; why did they do it?

Systems of Production: Factory versus Cottage Industry

You have just completed an assembly line simulation and it is time to think about what you learned about how

a factory operates to mass-produce goods for consumers.

1. In your group, come up with definitions for terms associated with industrialization.

Assembly line -

Piecework -

Specialization -

Mass Production -

Factory System -

Cottage Industry (think about the students who made jeans individually from beginning to end) -

Industrialization -

2. Comparing Systems of Production—Industrial versus Cottage Industry.

Which system produced jeans more efficiently and with the least amount of waste? What are the

advantages and disadvantages of both systems? Why did the factory system become the dominant

model? Discuss.

3. Why do you think the factory system has become the main method for producing goods?

List your reasons on the back of this page.

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STUDENT LEARNING GUIDE 2

Exit Slips

Photocopy (one per student) and cut these in advance to pass out after students do Student Learning Guide 1.

Compile and group responses. Show complete class feedback to the whole class.

What is the most important thing you have learned about the factory system?

What is the most important thing you have learned about the factory system?

What is the most important thing you have learned about the factory system?

What is the most important thing you have learned about the factory system?

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STUDENT LEARNING GUIDE 3

Inquiry Question: How did working conditions affect the quality of life for GWG factory workers?

Now that you are familiar with how a factory operates, it is time to consider the working conditions of the

GWG plant workers. After listening to the women’s stories and songs, write your thoughts about what you

have observed.

1. You have seen video clips called Working Conditions in the Edmonton Plant, GWG 4 Speed Up and GWG 5

Blue Lung (lyrics may be provided by your teacher).

What are the various conditions that existed in the factories that led to poor health or unsafe working

conditions?

Condition Effects on Health - Evidence

Under what circumstances would you make these kinds of sacrifices?

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STUDENT LEARNING GUIDE 4

Inquiry Question: Immigrant women were willing to sacrifice their health and safety working at the GWG factory; why did they do it?

Name Home Group

Use this chart to analyze the songs and interviews. Be prepared to share your ideas with your Home Group later.

Song/Story Segment Why did the woman make the sacrifice?

Evidence from the song or interviews

3 I Cannot Tell You

(The Whole Story)

6 Lullaby

9 Immigrant Dreams

My Mom’s Job

Individually, write a paragraph from the point of view of a 13 year-old girl or boy whose mother is working in

a factory. Use these prompts to get you started thinking—What sacrifices do you see mom making? What do

you appreciate? How will this affect you? What can you do to help your mom? Use the back of this page to

write your paragraph.

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My Mom’s Job — Rubric

Name

Criteria Green Light Yellow Light Red Light13 year-old point of

view is evident

Identifies mother’s

sacrifices

Describes how her

work helps you and

your family?

Ideas for helping

your mom

Comments

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APPENDIX A

Teacher Backgrounder

Edmonton’s Great Western Garment Factory

Established in Edmonton in 1911, by World War II GWG was the largest workwear manufacturing company in Canada and, reputedly, in the British Empire. The company bought or built plants in Winnipeg, Brantford and Saskatoon. Levi Strauss & Co. purchased a majority interest in 1961 and the remaining shares in 1972, and closed the last plant in 2004.

 1911 was a boom year for Edmonton. Real estate values were high and many new shops, businesses and houses were built. Alberta’s first Premier, Alexander C. Rutherford, City Councillor and owner of the Alberta Hotel, Alfred E. Jackson, and Charles A. Graham, a former buyer and salesman with Revillon Dry Goods, established the Great Western Garment Company (GWG) on January 30, 1911, with

a strong belief in the future of the young city. They also recognized the need for a supply of functional, hard-wearing clothing for the province’s growing workforce.

 The company’s seven employees formed Local 120 United Garment Workers of America (UGWA) a few months later. The company quickly became a significant employer of women. There were few jobs available to women at the time; many employers would not retain married women, and single women had few legitimate employment opportunities.

 Great Western Garment grew quickly, to more than 100 workers in its first year of operation. In 1914, the plant moved to 10438 Namayo Street (97th Street), Edmonton, to accommodate its growing workforce of 150 operators.

Early Expansion

From 1917 to 1953, the factory was located at the corner of 97th Street and 103rd Avenue. Originally constructed as a department store in 1911, the building was converted for use as a factory. By 1919, GWG employed 375 workers. Graham became president in 1920, and the following year Jackson and Rutherford ceased to be shareholders. Investors

provided the capital necessary to build a two-storey addition to the north side of the factory in 1925, and a fourth storey addition with a metal mansard roof to the main building in 1927. Then, in the late 1920s, GWG moved its mackinaw and leather departments to “Factory #2” in a nearby print shop. Sales throughout western Canada grew to $1.4 million.

The Great Depression

Much of GWG’s success can be attributed to Clarence D. Jacox, general manager from 1931 to 1941 and president from 1941 to 1958. Jacox instituted the line system and piecework incentives. The company survived the Depression through diversification, receiving City contracts to manufacture uniforms for city workers and clothing for people on relief. At the time, GWG produced more than 700 individual

lines of garments, including women’s wear and youth wear.

 By 1935, GWG was optimistic that the worst of the Depression was over and introduced a prosperity program, increasing the number of workers from 250 to 300. After years of layoffs during slow periods, GWG celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1936 by committing to full-time employment for its staff.

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World War II

With the outbreak of World War II in 1939, two-thirds of the plant’s production was dedicated to government contracts. C.D. Jacox became president following C.A. Graham’s death in December 1940, and ownership of the company was consolidated in the Graham and Jacox families. In 1941, the

accumulated value of GWG’s government contracts reached $1 million. The workforce grew to 500 people, manufacturing 12,500 uniforms per week, almost as many garments as it produced each year 15 years earlier. In 1942, a $125,000 two-storey addition was built to the east of the plant.

Postwar

In the early 1950s, GWG began to look for a new location near the 97th Street plant to accommodate operators who were juggling work and domestic duties. On December 18, 1953 the firm celebrated the completion of a new factory—a one-storey, 100,000-sq. ft. plant with a 70,000-sq. ft. sewing room—situated just a few blocks away. The reinforced concrete and masonry structure, designed by architect Ralph Brownlee, was arguably the largest garment factory on the continent. The number of employees increased from 500 to 750.

 In 1957, GWG built a 125,000 sq. ft. addition to the new factory, further expanding its workforce. In 1958, C.D. Jacox died and was succeeded by J. Gerald Godsoe of Toronto. Jacox’s death precipitated not only a change in management but, within a few years, a change in ownership.

 

The company began to produce casual clothing for the entire family, and its marketing and distribution network spread across the country; by 1961, 5,500 merchants carried GWG products. GWG continued to sell such popular brands as Cowboy Kings (1929), Red Strap (1933), Iron Man (1932), Snobak (1935), and Texas Ranger (1937). Custom GWG fabrics were developed in collaboration with textile mills: Buckskin (1932), Snobak denim (1935), and Nev’R Press (1965), for example. New brands introduced included: Driller’s Drill (1948), High Rigger (1951), and Bum Bums (1978). To reflect an interest in expanding their market to all Canadians, in 1965 GWG changed the name of Cowboy Kings to GWG Kings. Also that year, GWG updated its corporate identity, introducing a new streamlined logo with two straight lines, rather than wings, over the initials. To counter restrictions against wearing blue jeans to school, GWG introduced coloured denim pants.

Speed-up

Beginning in the 1940s, GWG used efficiency engineers to ‘speed-up’ the manufacturing process. Under Jacox, GWG had become one of the most highly engineered companies in the world, adopting new machinery and processes as soon as it could. By the 1960s GWG had full-time engineers who timed the operators and showed them how to expend less energy working in a circular motion, how to pick

the pieces up, which fingers to use, and how to feed fabric into the machine. Where possible, operations were fully automated and the operators simply placed the fabric pieces in the correct position. By the time the plant closed in 2004, the amount of time it took to manufacture a pair of jeans was reduced to seven and a half minutes.

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Levi’s Ownership

Levi Strauss and Co. bought 75% of GWG in 1961. New owners Peter and Walter Haas joined the board, but GWG retained independent management until after the company’s 75th anniversary in 1986. It was one of Alberta’s largest industrial enterprises, with 950 operators working day and night shifts, increasing production capacity by ten percent. Production jumped from 8,000 units a day in 1958 to

13,000 five years later.

GWG became the first company to partner with the provincial government and the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology (NAIT) to train unemployed and underemployed people in 1965. Trainees were paid minimum wage, half of which came from the government.

Integration of GWG Plants within Levi Strauss

In 1968, GWG opened a $1 million 2-storey, 106,000-sq. ft. warehouse in the Strathcona Industrial Park in Edmonton, consolidating the storage and distribution of GWG garments produced at the Brantford, Winnipeg, and Edmonton plants.

In 1971, the Great Western Garment Company changed its name to GWG Limited. The following year, Levi Strauss bought the remaining shares of GWG Limited. Levi Strauss and Co. (Canada) Inc. was incorporated, and GWG became a wholly-owned subsidiary while continuing to retain its Canadian directorship with Russell Gormley as president and the head office in Edmonton.

 In 1973, GWG established a cutting centre and storage facility, and a two-storey, 106,000 square warehouse in the Strathcona Industrial Park. GWG continued its efforts to modernize the company’s

image by introducing a new logo, with stylized “GWG” letters in a broken circle, and by running the first national television campaign for jeans.

In 1978, GWG Limited and GWG (Eastern) Limited amalgamated under GWG Limited. Erwin Mertens became president of GWG.

In 1982, Great Northern Apparel Inc. (GNA) was established as a holding company for GWG Inc. and Levi Strauss and Co. (Canada) Inc. Fifty Edmonton-based office workers were laid off as GWG began to transfer management to Toronto. In 1984, 85 people were laid off at the Edmonton plant, and finishing for all clothing manufactured at Levi Strauss and GWG plants in Edmonton, Stoney Creek, and Cornwall was consolidated in Brantford. Some of the finishing workers from Edmonton chose to re-locate, along with the work, to Brantford.

Levi Strauss Management

By 1984, GWG’s workforce in Edmonton had declined from 1600 at its peak to 600 employees. The GWG name continued to be used until after the company’s 75th anniversary in 1986 when it introduced the marketing campaign “History in the Making,” capitalizing on GWG’s long history. Levi Strauss showed little interest in the GWG brand and, from 1998 to 2001, licensed it to Montreal manufacturer Jack Spratt. When this contract expired, Levi Strauss resumed production of GWGs in Edmonton and at the plant in Stony Creek, Ontario. Levi Strauss also introduced a new logo that featured the name “Great

Western Garment Company” in a circle with the letters “GWG” in the centre.

Levi Strauss considered shutting down the Edmonton plant in 1999, when it closed 11 plants in North America, but in the end the plant was spared. Workers would remain anxious for their jobs when later that year 77 workers were laid off at the Edmonton plant, shifting production to Mexico.

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Closure

When the Edmonton plant finally closed in March 2004 and 488 workers lost their jobs, Levi Strauss announced a severance package, career counselling, and retraining, as well as donations to local charities. Working with Economic Development Edmonton,

they initiated the “Levi’s 488 Project” to help workers find new jobs. Unfortunately, many workers did not have the English language skills necessary to qualify for other jobs with comparable salary and benefits.

Conclusion

The closure of GWG was a significant loss to the city of Edmonton. Throughout its history, GWG was a very innovative company. In terms of management for example, before 1917, Local 120 was reputed to be the first garment manufacturing union in North America to gain the 8-hour day and 40-hour week; in the 1960s, GWG developed a unique inventory control system, working closely with retailers; and in 1965, GWG was the first Alberta company to partner

with the government to provide training.

In terms of products, in the 1920s GWG was the first company in Canada to use pre-shrunk denim; in 1965 GWG introduced Nev’R Press, the first permanent press pants in Canada; and in 1972 Scrubbies, the original pre-washed jeans, were invented in Edmonton by then Vice-President of Merchandizing Don Freeland.

Cole, Catherine C. (2010). “Edmonton’s Great Western Garment Factory.” Piece by Piece: the GWG Story, Edmonton: Royal Alberta Museum. Retrieved from: http://www.royalalbertamuseum.ca/exhibits/online/GWG/en/history/index.html

Also of interest is Catherine’s book: Cole, Catherine C. (2012). GWG: Piece by Piece. New Brunswick: Goose Lane Editions.

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APPENDIX B

Lyrics to songs in the GWG: Piece by Piece video ballad

GWG: Piece by Piececomplete video ballad

GWG 3 I Cannot Tell You (The Whole Story)© Maria Dunn, 2012 A poignant description of one refugee’s loneliness in her new country

I cannot tell you the whole story But if you knew me, you’d understand Though I was young, I’d seen a lifetime Of war and hardship in my own land

When I escaped, I left my family I took their blessing, their hopes and pride Pray for my safety on the journey And I’ll send word from the other side

Oh daughter please, don’t hold to me Though it’s so hard to let you go You’ve more to give, you’ve more to be Than this country will allow

I could cross the oceans, brave open water Come to a place so wintry, bleak But all my courage, my looking forward Could not prepare me for my grief

Granddaughter please, don’t mourn for me Though it’s so hard to let you go You’ve more to give, you’ve more to be Than this country will allow

There’s little time for feeling lonely There’s little time for looking back You do your duty, you make ends meet Roll up your sleeves, pick up the slack

Maria Dunn vocal, acoustic guitar Shannon Johnson violin Ojas Joshi tabla, chandaMichael Lent upright bassSharmila Mathur sitar

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GWG 4 Speed Up© Maria Dunn, 2007 An exuberant call-and-response work song

I’ll tell you how the work went – Speed up, speed up, speed up Not one second was misspent – Speed up, speed up, speed up My fingers nimble, face intent – Speed up, speed up, speed up I’d like to see you try it friend – Speed up, speed up, speed up

Now that I’ve gotten good and fast – Speed up, speed up, speed up They’ve upped the ante for my task– Speed up, speed up, speed up Each time I get ahead, they’re back– Speed up, speed up, speed up To raise the bar and stretch the slack– Speed up, speed up, speed up

Each extra inch seems like a mile– Speed up, speed up, speed up So bundles take a bit of guile– Speed up, speed up, speed up You snatch the small size with a smile– Speed up, speed up, speed up It’s “head down” for another while – Speed up, speed up, speed up

Come weekend, it’s another race – Keep up, keep up, keep up Another job, another pace – Keep up, keep up, keep up Each dollar more a saving grace – Keep up, keep up, keep up To bring my family to this place – Keep up, keep up, keep up

My husband, I—we’re healthy, young – Keep up, keep up, keep up Still who knows what we’re running on – Keep up, keep up, keep up We pass each other the baton – Keep up, keep up, keep up When one comes home, the other’s gone – Keep up, keep up, keep up

Sometimes I need a little cry – Keep up, keep up, keep up All I do’s just scraping by – Keep up, keep up, keep up For making friends, there’s little time – Keep up, keep up, keep up It’s ‘head down’ for another while – Keep up, keep up, keep up

Each pocket, seam and bottom hem I’ve sewn for my children I watch them grow, I know for them It’s worth it all in the end It’s worth it all in the end It’s worth it all in the end

Maria Dunn vocal Shannon Johnson harmony vocal Ojas Joshi tabla, udu, chanda, percussion Jeremiah McDade harmony vocal Chorus: Dawn Cross, Shannon Johnson, Jeremiah McDade, Terry Morrison

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GWG 5 Blue Lung© Maria Dunn, 2007 Hauntingly commemorates a worker who died of lung disease Inspired by the experience of Lillian Wasylynchuk who passed away in March 2009 at 71 years of age after a seven year battle with Pulmonary Fibrosis. Lillian worked for several years at the GWG clothing factory (1956 – 1963) and believed that her lung disease was caused by exposure there to the dust from the denim fabric.

Where I come from, we work hard, we don’t make a fuss So I can’t be afraid of a bit of blue dust When my family needs me to pay the bills Maybe I’m not so ill

I see now from the photos, some women wear masks And I can’t help but wish that I’d done more than ask But ours were the days when you did what you’re told You could only be so bold

If I could speak to my younger self I’d say: “never risk your precious health” Don’t assume that they’ve thought of you In your air of denim blue

Now if I had toiled in a coal mine Where the earth itself compresses your time Then maybe I’d think of lung disease But a clothing factory?

Our fingers, our air, tainted blue And someone joked that our blood must be too But when the dust settled, I’m sad to say It took my breath away

Maria Dunn vocal, acoustic guitarShannon Johnson violin

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GWG 6 Lullaby© Maria Dunn, 2008

My little child, my little one May you grow to be so strong Always know how loved you are That’s why mommy works so hard

Grandma, grandpa, daddy too All sing lullabies for you And I know you love them, yes But your mommy you love best

Chorus:

Now I sing this song for you As you’ll sing one day for me Now I give my hands to you As you’ll give them back to me

We crossed the open seas For prosperity and peace And the life of which we dream Now, will lull you, child, to sleep

Rolling English off your tongue With the ease of the young You’ll have schooling and a home A destiny your own

Chorus

Someday I hope you’ll come to know The place I call home And I hope you will see Why we had to leave

We have travelled shore to shore Like all pilgrims have before Though we found no streets of gold You are the treasure that I hold

Chorus

Maria Dunn  vocal, acoustic guitar Michael Lent  upright bass Jeremiah McDade  whistle

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GWG 9 Immigrant Dreams© Maria Dunn, 2012 This song discusses the working options for immigrant women

Some say it’s a sweatshop and why would you stay? If you spoke better English, you’d be on your way Too smart to be here, too poor to go So you just stick it out for a month or so

Too smart to be here, too busy to leave Weathering change in a tongue you don’t speak And the pay here is decent, benefits too So you just roll along for a year or two

And while you’ve been keeping your family afloat The years have slipped by and you’re still in the boat Rowing a sea of sewing machines For your bread and your roses, your immigrant dreams

Some say it’s a sweatshop, relentless it was But times have changed, so have the laws From piece work to better than minimum wage No more killing yourself for the money you make

From piece work to better than minimum pay There’s more to your work than a quota each day Encouraged to lead, your confidence grows So rich meeting women from all round the globe

And while you’ve been keeping your family afloat Years slipped by and you’re still in the boat Rowing a sea of sewing machines For your bread and your roses, your immigrant dreams

If it’s a sweatshop, where else would you go? To a rest’rant? No pension, pay that’s too low You’re better off home than part time in a store All that effort, you get there, you’re back out the door

You’re better off home some husbands agree Long ago when you went to GWG You could write your own book with all that you learned Put your children through school with the money you earned

And while you’ve been keeping your family afloat Years slipped by and you’re still in the boat Rowing a sea of sewing machines For your bread and your roses, your immigrant dreams For your bread and your roses, your immigrant dreams For your bread and your roses, your immigrant dreams

Maria Dunn  vocal, acoustic guitar, accordion Shannon Johnson  violin Michael Lent  upright bass Jeremiah McDade  bansuri

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APPENDIX C

Role Cards

Station 1 Cutter Cutter Cutter

Station 2 Belt Loops / Button Hole Belt Loops / Button Hole Belt Loop/ Button Hole

Station 3 GWG Labeler GWG Labeler GWG Labeler

Station 4 Zipper and Front Legs Zipper and Front Legs Zipper and Front Legs

Station 5 Side Seams Gluer Side Seams Gluer Side Seams Gluer

Station 6 Waistband Waistband Waistband

Station 7 Riveter Riveter Riveter

Station 8 Roving Inspector Roving Inspector Final Inspector

Individuals Material Manager Material Manager Material Manager

Individuals Cottage Craft Worker Cottage Craft Worker Cottage Craft Worker

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APPENDIX D

Materials and Station Instructions

Materials | Heavier grade paper that has the pattern photocopied onto each sheet.

| Scissors (one pair per cutter)

| Single hole punch (for button hole)

| Glue sticks

| Dot stickers (larger ones for buttons and smaller dots for the rivets—8 per pair of jeans) You will need a lot of dot stickers

| Yellow and black sharpies for colouring the GWG logos and an orange sharpie for drawing the top-stitching.

| Print instructions for each station.

| Inspection Quality Control forms (see Appendix F)

Station Instructions

STATION 1

Carefully cut out pattern along the heavy black lines.

STATION 2

Draw the belt loops onto the waistband (piece 1) where they are marked.

Use a hole-punch for the button-hole.

Attach the button (sticky dot)

Button Hole

Button

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STATION 3

Colour the GWG logo and glue it onto the marked back pocket (piece 2)

Glue the GWG pocket onto the right back leg panel (piece 4)

Glue the other back pocket (piece 3) onto the left leg panel (piece 5)

Glue the front pockets (pieces 6 & 7) onto the front leg panels (pieces 8 & 9)

3

4

2

5

76

89

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STATION 4

Carefully draw in the zipper onto the left leg panel (piece 8). You will need to have drawn in the precise

number of teeth. Then glue or tape the two front panels together below the zipper so that the fly covers the

zipper.

Glue the two front leg panels (pieces 8 & 9) together below the zipper. The zipper should now be covered by

the “fly” on piece 9.

STATION 5

Place the back pants panels (pieces 4 & 5) face down onto the table.

Glue the front panels (pieces 8 & 9) onto the back pieces along the side seams and inseams.

Button

Button Hole

inseams

Side seam Side seam

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STATION 6

Carefully glue the waistband onto the pants. Be sure to glue the button-end under the zipper-fly. The button-

hole end will cover the button.

STATION 7

Attach the rivets over the small circles on the front and back pockets. There are 8 rivets.

Draw orange lines for top-stitching. This should be on the pockets, inseams, belt loops, zipper-fly and

waistband center seam.

“Top-stitch” the hem of the bottom of the pants by drawing an orange stitching-line.

Button

Button Hole

Rivets

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APPENDIX E Patterns

7

7

6

9

8

FRONT POCKET6 FRONT POCKET

GWG PATCH

9RI

GH

T FR

ON

T

GLUE

8LE

FT F

RON

T

GLUE

GLUE

GLUE

GLUE

Ensure that the pant sizes on the patterns match in size.

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1W

AIS

TBA

ND

4

5

3

1

2

4RI

GH

T BA

CK

GLUE

5LE

FT B

ACK

GLUE

GLUE

GLUE

GLUE

3 BACK POCKET

2 BACK POCKET

GLUE LABEL

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APPENDIX F

Inspection Quality Control Form

Use this sheet to examine the quality of the product at each stage of manufacture. Ensure that the jeans being

produced are at a high standard.

Number Pass (yes/no) Comments

1. Cutting is clean and accurate

2. Belt loops, button and button-hole accurately attached

3. GWG logo creatively coloured; front and back pockets accurately glued on

4. Front leg panels, zipper and fly accurately glued and drawn

5. Glued front and side seams together

6. Glued waistband accurately

7. Attached rivets, drew topstitching on seams and hem.

Inspector’s signature Date

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Sponsors:

This project was developed for the Aspen Foundation for Labour Education www.afle.ca as part of a teaching

resource that features Maria Dunn’s video ballad Piece by Piece: Stories of the Women Who Worked at GWG

(2012), a collaboration between songwriter Maria Dunn www.mariadunn.com, videographer Don Bouzek of

Ground Zero Productions www.gzpedmonton.org, and historian Catherine C. Cole. Financial assistance for this

project was provided by the following organizations:

| Alberta Council of Carpenters & Allied Workers

| Alberta Historical Resources Foundation

| Alberta Teachers’ Association

| Blair Chahley Seveny Lawyers

| Chivers Carpenter Lawyers

| Civic Service Union 52 Benevolent Society

| Edmonton Community Foundation

| Servus Credit Union

| Steelworkers Humanity Fund

| Teamsters Local 362

| Teamsters Local 987

| United Food and Commercial Workers Local 401

| Unifor Social Justice Fund