leather briefcase

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/ Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop Leather Briefcase by Phiske on January 1, 2014 Table of Contents Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Intro: Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Step 1: Tools and material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Step 2: Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Step 3: Dye, Mark, and cut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Step 4: Make the Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Step 5: Attach Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 6: Add straps and holders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Step 7: Shape sides and bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Step 8: Add reinforcements and line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Step 9: Attach back, bottom and sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Step 10: Add tuck catches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Step 11: Attach front and stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Step 12: Make false bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Step 13: Make your strap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Step 14: Finish! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

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Leather briefcase construction

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Page 1: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Food      Living       Outside        Play        Technology       Workshop

Leather Briefcaseby Phiske on January 1, 2014

Table of Contents

Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Leather Briefcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Tools and material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2:   Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 3:   Dye, Mark, and cut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4:   Make the Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 5:   Attach Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 6:   Add straps and holders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 7:   Shape sides and bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 8:   Add reinforcements and line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 9:   Attach back, bottom and sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Step 10:   Add tuck catches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Step 11:   Attach front and stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Step 12:   Make false bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Step 13:   Make your strap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Step 14:   Finish! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Page 2: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Author:Phiske    cachicamoleatherworks.comSpend most of my time in Ecuador south america with my wife and son. From Chicago burbs.

Intro:  Leather BriefcaseLeather is awesome! Especially vegetable tanned leather. It's been in use for centuries, millennia, eons even. (Are millennia and an eon the same thing?)I know you all love that leather smell when you go in to Wilson's leather. It's half the reason to go in there. Unless you are a vegan. In that case you're probably notreading this. If you eat meat or are thinking of converting keep reading.

I love making bags and briefcases out of leather. It's such a beautiful, renewable resource. Granted, large unrestricted tanneries can produce some bad chemicals,vegetable tanned leather, if properly processed, limits these. Another cool thing about leather is that if you really take care of it, it will last. And it looks great as it ages.But it is also biodegradable. So when you are old and you and your leather bag are all worn out, you can just toss it and it will decompose. Can't say that about syntheticleather or any other man made products that you might use to make a briefcase. You can even recycle the hardware too!

Here I'll show you the construction of one of my bags. This one even has a hidden compartment in the bottom!

There are a ton of little steps so follow the pics. I have most of the instructions in the captions so you can follow the construction easier.

Page 3: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Page 4: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Step 1: Tools and materialThere are the basics then there are the...not-so-basics...If you are thinking about getting into leather working, just get the basics. You might even have a lot of the toolsalready or you can pilfer from your dad's tool box. You also can make some of the tools out of old screwdrivers, kitchen knives and what not. If you really enjoy it thenlittle by little you can expand your shop. A good solid workbench is essential. I have a whole room dedicated to leather working but if it's just a hobby you probably don't :)

Basics (pic 1 what's not shown)Various grits of sand paperPiece of canvas or duck clothSpongeDish for waterCutting boardSharpening stoneFor a work bench put a beach towel then a piece of scrap plywood on your kitchen table to protect it from your work

Not-so basics(pics 2 and 3)I have a bunch of tools not shown that are less essential plus a nice sewing machine Juki DNU-1541

Page 5: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

MaterialYou'll need a nice piece of leather about 7-9 oz. (that's the thickness)4 - 1" Dee rings (for handle and straps)2 - trigger snaps (to attach the shoulder strap)1" buckle2 Tuck catchesa bunch of rivetsLeather dyeBee's waxNeutral leather wax ( to finish at end )

Image Notes1. Framing square2. Stitching awl (small)3. Edge beveler (small)4. Wing dividers. You can use these for marking stitching lines, holes for straps orbelts, etc.5. Snap-off style utility knife (I use this a lot)6. two small to medium size punches7. A small stiff awl8. Decent pair of scissors9. Skiving knife made from an old kitchen knife10. Strong office clips

Image Notes1. Rivet and snap setters2. End strap punches (I like the english point)3. Oblong punches (3/4" and 1")4. stitching punches5. Oval punches (good for buckle tongue holes on belts and straps)6. Nippers7. Poly hammer (never hit your punches with a metal hammer!)8. Hammer (duh)9. Piece of a leaf spring for setting snaps and rivets in hard to reach places10. Rivets11. Sharpening stones, oil, and strop12. Round punches13. Piece of granite counter top to do all your skiving and gouging14. Mini vise

Image Notes1. Cement pot2. Strap cutter (great tool)3. Office clips4. 3 different types of skivers5. V-gouge6. Edge bevelers7. Round knife (great tool, but keep it sharp)

Page 6: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

8. Various trim knifes9. Shoe brush10. Cobbler's hammer ( just get a nice trim hammer with smooth face)11. Bone folder (good tool)12. Combo channel cutter/stitch marker doo-dad13. Beeswax14. Little roller for adhering pieces after cemented15. Good scissors and shears16. I have a whole mess of straight edges not shown17. Stitching awls and lacing fid (I made the handles on my dad's lathe!)18. Rotary hole punch (good for lighter weight leathers)

Step 2: DesignGet out a piece of paper and start sketching. And/or google images for the type of bag you want. Once you get an idea of the shape and style of your bag you need todetermine the dimensions. You can do this by gathering together what you want to put in it and shaping the items into a rough rectangle or square or octagon (whoknows?). Measure your rectangle. Then that will be your inside dimensions plus a couple of inches for wiggle room. Add the thickness of your leathers and you can do arough pattern on to paper if you're just making one bag or on to poster board or chip board if you are making more than one. Sometimes it might take a bag or two (orfour) to really refine your design.

I already designed my bag and have my patterns all figured out...so on to the next step.

Step 3: Dye, Mark, and cutI like to use full grain veg tanned natural leather for the briefcases I make. Saddle leather!I use a dye that comes in a powder that you mix with water. Whatever you decide to use just strictly follow manufacturer's instructions. Mine call for wetting the leatherfirst to allow for full absorption. Wear gloves! After it's dry I have to buff it with a cloth to take off any extra dye that stayed on the surface.

Once dry mark your pattern on to your leather with a scratch awl and then cut it out. Find the best grain pattern to use for what will be the back and top flap. Use a steelstraight edge along straight lines and free-hand it on curves. Make sure your blade is perpendicular to work surface and you don't start cutting on an angle. It's easy onthe straight cuts but on curves you might have a tendency to lean the blade a bit. Take your time.

Image Notes1. Wear gloves unless you don't mind your hands looking...gross

Page 7: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Find the best spot for the front and back of your bag. Full grain leather will haveall the scars and marks the cow had, so hide or highlight these.2. You need two of your side piece

Image Notes1. These are most of the outside pieces showing where they go.2. I cut the straps out of a contrasting color

Step 4: Make the HandleThere are a ton of handle styles you can make. Some are overly complicated and difficult to make them look good. So I do a combo between a simple strap handle with apiece of leather wrapped around it.

Their are a lot of small steps to this so it may seem more complicated then it is. Basically you will apply all the basic leather working techniques in making this.

The pictures have the instructions...

Image Notes1. Long strap cut the width of your Dee ring. Length can be figured out by howlong you want handle.

Image Notes1. Skive or reduce thickness on flesh side of ends

Page 8: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Image Notes1. Cut a v-gouge where handle will bend about 1/3 of the thickness of the leather2. Edge bevel the backside where the dee will be.

Image Notes1. Wet edge with sponge

Image Notes1. Burnish edge with a piece of canvas rubbing it back and forth really fast till itgets hot

Image Notes1. All shiny!

Image Notes1. Edge bevel exposed edges on grain side

Page 9: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Image Notes1. Moisten at bend

Image Notes1. Mark where to cement

Image Notes1. Put contact cement on both sides to be glued and let dry for a minute or so2. Make sure you put your dees on before gluing

Image Notes1. Stick it together flush on both sides and tap it with a smooth hammer

Page 10: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Mark where you want your rivets

Image Notes1. When you have really tough leather you might want to use a drill to make yourholes when going through 3 layers

Image Notes1. I use a french edger to counter sink the rivets

Image Notes1. They also make these kind of rivets out of copper

Page 11: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Washer on top

Image Notes1. Use your setter to pound the washer onto the rivet

Image Notes1. If they are too long you can snip a bit off but leave about 3/16"

Image Notes1. Pound down on the top of rivet with ball peen or regular hammer (these willbe hidden)

Image Notes1. Figure out how big you want the handle wrap

Image Notes1. Moisten...get it pretty wet to form it around the handle2. Edge bevel this and parallel side

Page 12: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Crease the inside edge with the bone folder2. Use some clips to hold it while it dries

Image Notes1. contact cement inside on the flaps only

Image Notes1. Make the crease nice and sharp. You can use a bit of water if it is not holdingthe corner

Image Notes1. Punch holes for stitching through one side only

Page 13: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Once in the stitching pony use stitching awl to finish holes and saddle stitch

Image Notes1. Drop the whole thing in a dish of warmish water for a minute...

Image Notes1. While it's still wet give it a gentle curve. If it wants to spring back straight, justnail it to your work bench through the dees to hold the curve

Step 5: Attach HandleYou need to attach all your outside pieces before you can start assembling the bag.

Image Notes Image Notes

Page 14: Leather Briefcase

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1. Notched for the dees2. I cut this strip the same length as the width of the top of the bag

1. Mark a line for the stitching

Image Notes1. Burnish edges

Image Notes1. Reinforcing strip2. Cement the two strips together

Page 15: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Image Notes1. Lightly mark placement of strip with a scratch awl

Image Notes1. Scuff finished surface where it will be glued to give it some "tooth"

Image Notes1. Cement both surfaces and let dry for a minute2. Cement both surfaces to be glued but only the center section where handle willgo for now

Image Notes1. Press with bone folder

Image Notes1. Punch for rivets2. Do not use metal hammer on your tools

Page 16: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Set rivets

Image Notes1. Don't glue here yet

Image Notes1. Punch your stitching holes

Image Notes1. Flesh side as it's being stitched

Image Notes1. Saddle stitch

Page 17: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Slide dees over strap

Image Notes1. Cement in place

Image Notes1. Give it a slight bulge to ride over dee

Image Notes1. You know what to do

Page 18: Leather Briefcase

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Step 6: Add straps and holdersHere you can see the attachment of the straps and the holders that keep them lined up. Make sure you leave them a little long to trim off flush later.

Image Notes1. Skive the flesh side of the strap where it will be attached inside the bag

Image Notes1. Skived strap with rivet holes

Image Notes1. Use a oblong punch or punch two circular holes and cut out in between

Image Notes1. Finish the edge of the flap by wetting and burnishing2. Back is all done until we line it

Step 7: Shape sides and bottomHere you will have to cut grooves on the flesh side of the bottom and sides, wet and shape. Also add the dees for the shoulder strap on the sides.

Page 19: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Holes for the shoulder strap dees2. Guide lines for the gouges that will enable the leather to bend3. Gouged lines4. Skived edges

Image Notes1. Bevel and finish top and bottom edges

Page 20: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Image Notes1. Moisten gouge lines and let sit for a couple of minutes

Image Notes1. Use bone folder to crease edge

Image Notes1. Set it aside to let it dry

Image Notes1. Follow same steps for bottom2. The ends fold up instead of down to be sewn to inside of the bottom of the sides

Page 21: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. 1" english point end punch2. Strap that will hold the dees for the shoulder strap

Image Notes1. You can attach directly to outside of bag but this isn't very strong

Image Notes1. Or you can run one end inside the slot and attach with rivets. much stronger

Image Notes1. But I usually attach them like this because I like the look

Step 8: Add reinforcements and lineAt this point you can line the back, bottom and sides of your bag. I usually wait to line the front so I can get everything fitting perfectly to add the tuck catches to close thebag. It's not necessary to line the bag if you don't want to. You can also do a cloth liner but I don't like to because it usually wears out in a year or two.

Page 22: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. Skive the flesh side along the edges a little so the edges of your bag aren't toothick. I still like it a little thick to make the bag more substantial2. Un-skived edge

Image Notes1. Thin lining leather

Image Notes1. Lay your piece to be lined on top of the leather

Image Notes1. Rough cut around the piece leaving about 3/4"

Image Notes1. Figure out if you want a pocket or anything on the inside of this piece beforeyou glue it

Image Notes1. This a large pocket I'll sew to the inside of the liner before I glue it. Glue topedge to fold over and stitch

Page 23: Leather Briefcase

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Image Notes1. This will act as a stiffener and a place to put a snap on the pocket.

Image Notes1. This is a Juki 1541 walking foot with a servo motor. I use it on flat work andthe liners. Great machine

Image Notes1. I didn't sew the ends because the next step will take care of that

Image Notes1. I am making an accordion style pocket. I make a fold here...

Image Notes1. Sew this edge

Image Notes1. Make another fold half way...

Page 24: Leather Briefcase

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/

Image Notes1. I forgot a pic. Sew this inside edge first on both sides leaving bottom loose2. Once the sides are attached line up the bottom and sew

Image Notes1. Cement to the bag starting in the middle of the liner and working down. Takecare to not get any wrinkles in it. Easier said than done with a thin liner2. Make sure it's well glued all the way to the edge

Image Notes1. Cement the flap on a bit of a curve. If you don't it will wrinkle when you close

Image Notes1. Trim excess with a knife perfectly flush

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the bag a few times

Image Notes1. Punch your holes for stitching

Image Notes1. Heavy weight chip board or grey board to stiffen bottom and sides. Cementin place

Image Notes1. Cement liners onto sides and bottom taking care to wrap around your formededges2. Don't cover the bottom 5/8". This will hide the stitching from side to bottom

Image Notes1. This is the liner for the front. Don't attach this yet!2. Confession: Because I was documenting this I got carried away and attachedthe front liner prematurely! Ahhhh!

Step 9: Attach back, bottom and sidesHere you just have to cement your pieces together except the front. Make sure everything is flush.

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Image Notes1. Cement your bottom piece to the back, then the sides

Image Notes1. Use your stitching awl to finish the hole and stitch

Image Notes1. Use a piece of paper to keep from getting cement on the back and side andcement it

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Image Notes1. Adhere the cement with bone folder

Step 10: Add tuck catchesI forgot to take pic's as I worked here because I was frustrated. I had been too distracted by taking pics for everything that I had glued the liner on my front piece before itwas ready. I just meant that I was going to have rivets showing on the inside of the liner but It still made me mad... Anyway....The tuck catches come in two main pieces:male and female. I think you can figure it out. So attache the male parts on to the flap where they need to go making sure everything is lined up. I had to trim the liner onthe inside of the flap where they go because the leather was to thick. I also hid a rivet in between the slot for the catch to really secure the straps from moving at all.

Once done with that cement liner in place

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Step 11: Attach front and stitchOnce your liner is properly attached you can glue the front onto the sides and stitch.

Image Notes1. Cement front onto sides

Image Notes1. Use a piece of broken glass and rub briskly across uneven edges (no joke!)

Image Notes1. Complete holes with stitching awl and stitch around the bag

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Image Notes1. All stitched...

Image Notes1. Finish edges with beveler and burnish

Step 12: Make false bottomThe false bottom is made of sturdy grey board or chipboard.

Image Notes1. Score this line to fold up2. And this line...3. and this line...

Image Notes1. Fold up sides and hot glue

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Image Notes1. Test fit it in bottom of bag

Image Notes1. Cut out for trap door

Image Notes1. Add these little walls for strength and to be wrapped in leather

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Image Notes1. Wrap in lining leather all exposed surfaces2. Wrap the leather over the edges

Image Notes1. Cut a piece of grey board about 3/4" bigger so there is 3/8" of overlap all around

Image Notes1. Wrap cover in leather making sure to add about an inch extra for a hinge

Image Notes1. almost done...

Image Notes1. add a little flap to grip

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Image Notes1. cement along edges and wallah...a secret compartment for the microfiche

Step 13: Make your strapCut your strap as wide as the inside of your buckle. Mine was 1". You don't want anything wider than1 1/2" because they tend to slide off the shoulder. 48" for the longpart and 16" for the billet. I like to use two rivets to attach each component for strength. Some bag companies get cheap and only use one.

Image Notes1. Punch holes about an inch apart2. The long piece is about 48" and the short piece about 16"

Image Notes1. Nice brass roller buckle2. Slot for tongue.3. Rivet

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Image Notes1. Make sure tongue moves freely

Image Notes1. dome the rivets

Image Notes1. This is the short side I think it's called a billet?

Image Notes1. I like to put my logo here and on the left hand side of the front near the bottom2. Stamp I made from a big honking nail3. Nice trigger snap

Step 14: Finish!Now all you have to do is put a finish on your bag. I sometimes use neat's foot oil, mink oil or you can just use a high quality neutral shoe wax. It's just like waxing yourcar. Put a small amount on to a clean lint free rag and rub it in. Let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off with another clean rag. Don't leave it on too long with out buffingbecause it gets to caked on.

That's it you're done!

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