le pigeon by gabriel rucker and meredith erickson, with lauren fortgang and andrew fortgang -...

7/30/2019 Le Pigeon by Gabriel Rucker and Meredith Erickson, with Lauren Fortgang and Andrew Fortgang - Recipes and Ex

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C O O K I N G A T T H E D I R T Y B I R D

Le PIGEON

TEN SPEED PRESSBerkeley

GABRIEL RUCKER and

MEREDITH ERICKSON

with LAUREN and ANDREW FORTGANG

Photographs by DAVID L. REAMER


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5/14

Foreword by Tom Colicchio viii

Introduction: Five Years of Le Pigeon

LETTUCE AND SUCH

BBQ Celery Root, Mche,Dulce de Bourgogne

Radicchio, Pears, Hazelnuts,Blue Cheese Dressing

Butter Lettuce, Pickled Garlic, Ramps

Butter Lettuce, Lemon Confit,Grapes, Spiced Brioche

Dirty Potato Salad

Le Pigeon Caesar

omatoes, Plums, Watercress

Grilled Romaine, Preserved Lemons

Cedar-Planked Zucchini,Chvre, Almonds

Little Gem Lettuce, GoudaCheese Dressing

Mortadella, Mustard Greens,Swiss Cheese

TONGUE

Grilled Lambs ongue,Creamed Peas, Morels

Elk ongue Stroganoff

Beef ongue Reuben

ongue Bacon, Brioche,Celery, Capers

Lamb ongue Fries, RosemaryKetchup

Grilled Pork ongue, RefriedBeans, Lardo

BBQ Beef ongue, Fried Rice

FAT LIVER

Su Liens Foie Gras orchon

oasted Foie Gras and Jelly Fig and Foie Gras errine

Foie Gras Bacon, Brioche

Chanterelle Soup, Foie Gras,Candy Cap Sandwich

Foie Gras, Peach Chutney Puff Pastry

Foie Gras Carpaccio Foie Gras, Eel Pot-au-Feu,

Pears, Dumplings

Spinach, Artichoke, Foie Gras

Foie-Creamed Spinach

{Gabriels Love Letter to Plymouth Valiants}

LITTLE BIRDS

Simple Roasted Pigeon

Maple-Lacquered Squab,Duck Confit Hash

Duck Heart, Green Bean Casserole

Duck, Duck, Pigeon

Chicken-Fried uail, Eggos,Foie Maple Syrup

Pheasant Gnocchi, Sake Pears

Pigeon, Liver Crostini, Anchovy

Pheasant, Shiitake, Umami, Mizuna

Duck Nuggets

uail, Pine Nut Risotto, Marmalade

Duck Breast, Goat Cheese Pierogies

Pigeon Crudo, Figs, Bourbon

CONTENTS


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RABBIT

Smoked Rabbit Pie, Cheddar,Mustard Ice Cream

Rabbit in a Pig Blanket

Rabbit and Eel errine

Rabbit Blanquette, PearlOnions, Mushrooms

Creamed Rabbit, Polenta,Black ruffles

Rabbit Spanakopita,Prosciutto, ruffles

Cognac, Braised Rabbit, Prunes, Sweet

Potato, Chestnut Cream

Chicken-Fried Rabbit, WildMushroom Salad

{Te Basement apes by Andrew Fortgang}

LITTLE TERRY (SMALL FISH DISHES)

Hamachi, Foie Gras, ruffles,Mandarins

Radis Beurre (Ocean)

Fried Razor Clams, HabaneroButtermilk

Clams, Kielbasa, Beer

Boiled Dungeness Crab

Geoduck, Portobello, Yuzu

Octopus, Nectarines, Porcinis

Parisian Gnocchi, Escargot,Bone Marrow

Lobster Roe Pappardelle, Crab,Lemon, Crme Frache

Black Scallops, Crab Salad

BIG TERRY (LARGE FISH DISHE S)

Potato-Crusted Sea Bass,Leeks, Bottarga

Short Rib, Scallops, Succotash

Campfire rout

Seared Oregon King Salmon,Cedar-Planked Porcini

Anchovy-Larded Swordfish, FingerlingPotatoes, Rosemary Aioli

Sturgeon au Poivre

Carrot ButterPoached Halibut,Anchovy-Roasted Carrots, Fennel

Shrimp-Crusted Halibut, Chervil

PORK

Pork Belly, ripe, Fennel Jam

Potato and Nettle Soup, Crispy Pork

Pork Cheek, Ouzo, Feta

Pork, Pretzel Spaetzle, Kraut Slaw

Pork Shoulder Confit

Pork acos, Condiments

Jacked Pork Chops

Pigs Foot, Watermelon, Feta

Te Le Bunk Sandwich

Simple Roast Pork Loin

{Te Weird and Wonderful World of Lars Norgren}


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HORNS AND ANTLERS

Beef Cheeks Bourguignon

Beef Cheeks (An Addendum)

ripe, Chorizo Stew

Oxtail Stew, Deviled Crab

Hanger, Broccolini, Oyster Mayo

te de Veau (Calf s Headerrine), Gribiche, Egg

Elk Filet

Beef Heart, Broccoli, Parmesan

Buffalo Sweetbreads, Hot Sauce,Celery, Blue Cheese

Sweetbreads, Spaghetti, Meatballs

Rib Eye, Pineapple, Blue Cheese

Beef Carpaccio

Venison, Creamed Spinach,Yorkshire Pudding

Bone Marrow, CaramelizedOnion Sandwich

Te Le Pigeon Burger

LAMB

Lamb, Green Garlic Risotto

Lamb Shank, BBQ Beans

Slow-Roasted Lamb Neck, Corn,Chanterelle Mac n Cheese

Lamb Belly BL

Lamb -Bone, Caprese

Spaghettini, Lamb Belly, Peas,Parmesan (Yes, Carbonara)

Lamb Brains, Lambs Lettuce

Lamb Shepherds Pie, Curry Mash

{Enter the Cheese Bar: Steve Joness Killer Case}

VEG

Bread Pudding, Leek, Fennel

Radish Vichyssoise, Mussels, Pesto

Mustard Greens uiche

Nettle Crepes, Radish, Ricotta

omato art, Egg Salad

Baked Carrots, Almond Cream

Cauliflower, Aged Gouda,Mashed Potatoes

Morel empura, Goat Cheese, Mche

Agnolotti, Parmesan Broth

Crepe Lasagna, Chard, Sweet Onion

Leek Carbonara

CHOCO, TART, PROFIT

Mrs. Pickless Chocolate Cake,Caramel Corn, Milk Jazz

Carrot Cake, Raisins, Pecans,Chamomile Ice Cream

Zucchini Doughnuts

Honey Bacon Apricot Cornbread,Maple Ice Cream

Apple Cheddar Crostada,

Choose-Your-Own Condiment

Banana Cream Pie, Pineapple,Macadamia Nuts

Double Chocolate art, Strawberries,Black Pepper Ice Cream

Peach Napoleon

Ice Creams

Rhubarb-Vanilla Sorbet

Elderflower Sorbet

Gooseberry Sorbet

Raspberry-Honey Sorbet Pineapple Sorbet

Foie Gras Profiteroles

Le Pigeon Pantry

About the Authors

Acknowledgments

Index


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9/1478 LE PIGEON

Duck Confit Hash

1 pound (450 g) Yukon gold potatoes,peeled and diced the size ofbreakfast-style potatoes

14cup (60 ml) plus 2 tablespoons

neutral oilKosher salt

1 cup (85 g) shredded Duck Confit(page 322)

12cup (70 g) diced yellow onion12cup (12 g) sliced green onions, green

parts only

Cherry Vinegar

1 cup (250 ml) cider vinegar12cup (125 ml) maple syrup12cup (125 g) sugar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

12 cherries, pitted but stems left intact

14cup (40 g) chopped pitted cherries

Squab

2 tablespoons neutral oil

4 squab (aka, pigeons), cleaned andhalved, backbone removed

Kosher salt and freshly ground blackpepper

14cup (60 ml) maple syrup

4 poached eggs

1. Preheat the oven to F (C).

2. o make the hash, toss the potatoes with tablespoons o the oil andsalt to taste. Put the potatoes in a baking dish and roast until they are

barely cooked through (you dont want sof and mushy), about minutes.Remove the potatoes rom the oven but leave the oven on.

3. o make the cherry vinegar, in a small saucepan over high heat, com-bine the vinegar, maple syrup, sugar, and salt. When it comes to a boil, pourhal o the liquid into a heat-proo bowl with the whole pitted cherries.Reduce the heat to low, return the pan to the stove, and simmer the remain-ing liquid until it thickens and orms a syrup, about minutes. Keep a closeeye on it, because it can burn i reduced too much. Remove the pan romthe heat and stir in the chopped cherries. Set aside.

4. o make the squab, heat the oil in a large saut pan over high heat. Sea-

son the squab with salt and pepper and sear, skin side down, or minutes.Flip them over and brush with the maple syrup. Place the pan in the ovenand bake until a meat thermometer reads F (C) or medium-rare,about minutes. Remove rom oven and let rest while you finish the hash.

5. Heat a large, heavy saut pan over high heat with the remaining cup( ml) oil. Add the potatoes and saut until crispy, about minutes. Stir inthe confit and the yellow and green onions. Continue to cook or minutes,mixing well. Season to taste with salt.

6. o serve, create a l ittle mound o the hash on each o our plates, top

with a poached egg, then add the squab. Drizzle with the cherry vinegarand add three o the stem-on cherries to each plate beore serving.

THE PIGEON POUR:With the Maple-Lacquered Squabgrab a Chambolle-Musigny. Te ones rom Robert Groffierare complex and bursting with purity o ruit. One o the firstBurgundies I remember twisting my head around was a Gro-

fier Chambolle Amoureuses, a toppremier cru. For a ew bucks less, lookor his Haut Doix, anotherpremier crulocated next to Les Amoureuses.

If the cover of this book didnt give it away, you can see that little

birds with little bones are what we like to eat. This dish is perfect for

a quick and dirty dinner or brunch, and the duck confit hash is fitting

for any hangover: its quick, fatty, and delicious. {SERVES 4}

MAPLE-LACQUERED SQUAB,

DUCK CONFIT HASH


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LITTLE TERRY 151

Pasta Dough

214cups (280 g) all-purpose flour,plus more for dusting

6 egg yolks

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 tablespoons lobster roe

Semolina flour for dusting

Kosher salt

1 cup (250 ml) Shellfish Crme Frache(page 328)

2 tablespoons minced PreservedLemons (page 326)

1 pound (450 g) Dungeness crabmeat(see page 143)

1 teaspoon chopped chives

1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leafparsley

12teaspoon chopped fresh chervil12teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

1. To make the pasta dough, in a food processor combine the al l-purposeflour, egg yolks, olive oil, and lobster roe. Pulse a couple of times to com-bine; it will look slightly crumbly. Dust your work surface with all-purposeflour and empty the contents of the food processor onto it. Knead the

dough for about minutes to form a shiny elastic ball. Wrap the pasta inplastic wrap and refrigerate for hour.

2. Once the pasta has rested, cut the ball into quarters. Set a pastamachine to the number one setting. Dust your work surface and rolling

pin with all-purpose flour. Roll a piece of the dough into a thin rectangle.Pass it through your pasta machine, fold it over on itself, and repeat twomore times. Set the machine to the number two setting and pass the doughthrough the machine once. Continue the process, increasing the setting byone each time and passing the dough through the machine once, until the

pasta is thin but not transparent. Pasta machines vary, but on our Kitchen-Aid machine we go to number four. Repeat with remaining pieces of

dough. Once all the dough is rolled out, gently roll the sheets into loose logsand cut the pasta into noodles inch ( mm) wide. At this point, they canbe stored in an airtight container for up to a month in the freezer. If youare using them right away, then store them on a baking sheet dusted with alittle semolina flour in the fridge while you put everything else together.

Gabriel has never been to one of Jean-Georges Vongerichtens res-

taurants, but he loves his books. Simple to Spectacularin particular

is one of his go-tos. In this dish, weve taken Jean-Georges lobster

pappardelle recipe and Le Pigeonized it, so it comes out barely rec-

ognizable but still clearly influenced by the master.

Portland isnt really a lobster town, maybe because we haveno shortage of crab and tiny pink shrimp. But we love the flavor of

lobster, so over the years Gabriel has learned some ways to get great

flavor without serving a $50 lobster tail. Using the roe is one of those

ways, and this dish is one of our favorite ways to showcase it. The

roe is a somewhat special and sought-after ingredient. We suggest

you call the folks at www.seafoods.com and order some. This is a

great way to make stunning red noodles with a vibrant lobster flavor.

{SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER}

LOBSTER ROE PAPPARDELLE,CRAB, LEMON, CRME FRACHE

{Continued}


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152 LE PIGEON

3. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a largesaut pan over medium heat, combine the crme frache with the preservedlemon and crabmeat and saut to reduce the sauce and thicken slightly.Drop the pasta in the boiling water and cook until al dente, to minutes.Drain the noodles and add them to the saut pan with the sauce. Cook for seconds, just long enough to marry the flavors. Stir in the chives, parsley,chervil, and tarragon and taste for seasoning. Te mixture should be saucybut not runny.

4. Divide the pasta among four bowls, making sure you get all of that craband sauce out of the pan, and serve.

Lobster Roe Pappardelle, Crab, Lemon, Crme Frache, continued


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342 LE PIGEON

Copyright 2013 by Gabriel Rucker,

Andrew Fortgang, and Meredith Erickson

Photographs copyright 2013 by

David L. Reamer

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by

Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the

Crown Publishing Group, a division

of Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press

colophon are registered trademarks of

Random House, Inc.

All illustrations are by Chad Crowe with

the exception of Eat Squab on the half

title page and In Foie We Trust on page

71, by Gabriela Ramos.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-

Publication Data:

Rucker, Gabriel, 1981

Le Pigeon : cooking at the dirty bird

/ Gabriel Rucker, Meredith Erickson,

Lauren Fortgang, and Andrew Fortgang;

photographs by David Reamer.

pages cm

Includes index.

1. Le Pigeon (Restaurant) 2. Cooking

OregonPortland. 3. Restaurants

OregonPortland. I. Erickson, Meredith,

1980 II. Fortgang, Lauren, 1979 III.

Fortgang, Andrew, 1979 IV. Reamer, David.

V. Title.

TX715.R9245 2013

641.59795dc23

2013008703

Hardcover ISBN 978-1-60774-444-3

eBook ISBN 978-1-60774-445-0

Printed in China

Design by Katy Brown

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


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le pigeon by gabriel rucker and meredith erickson, with lauren fortgang and andrew fortgang -...

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