latitudes usa 2 summer 2013

Latitudes

Atlantic CupHomeward bound after Caribbean cruising

Summer2013ISSUE 2 $5.00

Fire Afloat28New Zealand

Discovery16

32

Caribbean 150020

USA

+ CA

NADA

Only a few offshore sailing events in the world offer the spirit that we like to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable experience, with the benefits of a first class organization in terms of prepa-ration and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the Caribbean 1500!

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Lagoon supports the Caribbean 1500 Rallyww

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Just minutes from the heart of Annapolis, you’ll find 16 acres of a resort-like setting, world-class marine services, an event pavilion, and a brand new clubhouse with a pristine pool, cafe and fitness center to use as your private retreat. Find everything you want, right where you want it at Port Annapolis. www.portannapolis.com | 410.269.1990

38˚57.8n 76˚28.7wand absolutely nowhere near

your average marina.

Only a few offshore sailing events in the world offer the spirit that we like to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable experience, with the benefits of a first class organization in terms of prepa-ration and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the Caribbean 1500!

www.cata-lagoon.com

Lagoon supports the Caribbean 1500 Rally

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Lagoon_Rally1500_2013.indd 1 25/01/13 11:24

Just minutes from the heart of Annapolis, you’ll find 16 acres of a resort-like setting, world-class marine services, an event pavilion, and a brand new clubhouse with a pristine pool, cafe and fitness center to use as your private retreat. Find everything you want, right where you want it at Port Annapolis. www.portannapolis.com | 410.269.1990

38˚57.8n 76˚28.7wand absolutely nowhere near

your average marina.

Bayona230 miles

Madeira121 miles

Azores777 miles

Lagos, Algarve99 miles

Canary Islands709 miles

Distances

The sailors’ crossroads

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www.worldcruising.com LATITUDES

5

ContentsViewpointForeword by Andrew Bishop, MD of World Cruising Club

Club NewsNews and events from World Cruising Club and our Corporate Members

Rally NewsRound up of rallies

Events DiaryWhat, when and where

Cruising ReportNew Zealand Discovery

Caribbean 1500 & ARC BahamasEarly start leads to fast, safe passage south

Fire AfloatLearn from real life experiences

ARC Europe & Atlantic CupHomeward bound after cruising the Caribbean

World ARCOcean Stepping Stones

Malts CruiseWhisky, Water and Wildlife

Boating Book ReviewThe latest books for bluewater sailors

noonsite.comNews updates from the cruising sailor’s information site

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10

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15

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20

28

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36

43

45

47

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20

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44 Adlard Coles

15 Bluff House Marina

42 Echomax

24 Horizon Yacht Charters

8 Hydrovane

46 IGY Rodney Bay Marina

18 ISTEC Parasailor

9 Jeanneau

2 Lagoon

4 Marina de Lagos

30 Mobmat

6 MRP Refits

24 Nanny Cay

42 Ocean Crew Link

14 Ocean Marine Yacht Centre

4 Ocean Safety

3 Port Annapolis

6 Raymarine

44 SAIL Magazine

48 Saint Lucia

12 Watt&Sea

42 Weather Routing International

12 Yellow Brick

List of Advertisers

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"For 13 years, we have helped sailors turn their coastal cruising boats into safe & comfortable passage-makers.... just in time for the Caribbean 1500!"

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7


EditorJeremy Wyatt

Deputy EditorSarah Collins

ContributorsLyall Burgess Sarah Collins Rachel Hibberd Donna Hill Nick Martin Andy Schell Paul Tetlow Jeremy Wyatt

Photography CreditsSuzana Buraca The crews of Magpie The crew of Thales Hamble School of Yachting Rachel Hibberd Kieran Higgs Mike and Donna Hill Imray Laurie Norie and Wilson Mia Karlsson Nick Martin James Mitchell Ocean Safety Clare Pengelly David Savides Andy Schell Paul Tetlow Tim Wright Photoaction.com Jeremy Wyatt And to all other yacht crews who submitted photographs!

Cover Image creditNick Martin

DesignAaron Rudd Creative www.aaronrudd.co.uk

Publisher World Cruising Club 120 High Street, Cowes PO31 7AX, UK

Tel: +44 (0)1983 296060 Email: [email protected]

Websites: worldcruising.com noonsite.com oceancrewlink.com

Earlier this year World Cruising Club announced Portsmouth as the new home port for our rallies starting and finishing in Virginia. We are excited by the fresh opportunities this offers and look forward to starting ARC Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas from there in the fall. The Atlantic Cup, our event returning from the Caribbean this spring, had a new additional route back to Fort Lauderdale via the Old Bahama Channel, which proved a popular alternative for those not wanting to go via Bermuda to ports further north.

Extending boundaries is our mantra at World Cruising Club and is what we have been doing since the first ARC in 1986, through all our various events, up to the latest new northern route for the Malts Cruise last summer. With the third circumnavigation of World ARC now completed in Saint Lucia our recent objective has been to find a new challenge to help those who have circumnavigated to achieve further goals and visit new places.

Last visited as a rally on the Millennium Odyssey, we are pleased to announce the new World ARC South America route; leaving from Portugal in September 2014 this route will offer an exciting alternative to Tahiti via Brazil, Argentina and Chile, with time to independently cruise Patagonia, and visit Cape Horn. For yachts based in North America the easiest way to join the route is to sail to Europe in the spring, or for those prepared for a harder, but shorter, sail the alternative is to sail to the Caribbean and join the rally further south in Brazil.

World ARC 2014 will leave from Saint Lucia in January with an estimated thirty five yachts taking the start, some of which have chosen to break their journey to explore the western Pacific for a year before continuing with the second half of World ARC 2015, made possible by the event now being run annually. World ARC South America will meet World ARC 2015 in Tahiti, to continue as one group for the remainder of the circumnavigation to finish in Saint Lucia in April 2016.

The start of World ARC 2015 will be my 100th rally, as well as World Cruising Club’s tenth year under the current management, and the 30th ARC; all good reasons to see the year as one of celebration! Whilst in the spring of 2013 it seems like a long way off the start of 2015 will soon be upon us and so it’s time to start work on how we plan to celebrate these significant milestone achievements. Without our participants support none of this would have been possible, and so we look forward to including many past, present and future participants in those celebrations, and in the meantime thank you for your continuing support.

Andrew Bishop Managing Director, World Cruising Club

Viewpoint

“World Cruising Club is about encouraging sailors to extend their cruising boundaries”Andrew Bishop, Managing Director

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It does not whine and groanthe way the boat’s autopilot does (or a grumpy crewmate!).

In a centre cockpit boat with a sugar scoop the advantages of the wheel being locked with no ropes in the cockpit, and the ability to o�-set so you don’t lose your boarding ladder are great.

Let Hydrovane sail you home safely

It ... was particularly impressive on the return leg from the Azores when it steered us though a 3 day gale, 35 to 38 knots, reaching with just a storm jib.

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SURVIVE YOUR DREAM

Tartan 3800 with stubby vaneSweden Yacht 45 with 30 inch o�set - ARC �nish

Totally independent self-steeringsystem and emergency rudder....in place and ready to go.

- Biscay 36 owner, Feb 2012- Westerly Oceanquest 35 owner,

July 2012

Autopilot failsBatteries downEngine won’t start

Steering brokenRudder damagedCrew incapacitated

WHAT IF....

NO WORRIES WITH HYDROVANE

- Southerly 135 owner, Dec 2011

Roberts 44 Ketch with dinghy davits

WW

W.H

YD

RO

VA

NE

.CO

M

It does not whine and groanthe way the boat’s autopilot does (or a grumpy crewmate!).

In a centre cockpit boat with a sugar scoop the advantages of the wheel being locked with no ropes in the cockpit, and the ability to o�-set so you don’t lose your boarding ladder are great.

Let Hydrovane sail you home safely

It ... was particularly impressive on the return leg from the Azores when it steered us though a 3 day gale, 35 to 38 knots, reaching with just a storm jib.

[email protected]

SURVIVE YOUR DREAM

Tartan 3800 with stubby vaneSweden Yacht 45 with 30 inch o�set - ARC �nish

Totally independent self-steeringsystem and emergency rudder....in place and ready to go.

- Biscay 36 owner, Feb 2012- Westerly Oceanquest 35 owner,

July 2012

Autopilot failsBatteries downEngine won’t start

Steering brokenRudder damagedCrew incapacitated

WHAT IF....

NO WORRIES WITH HYDROVANE

- Southerly 135 owner, Dec 2011

Roberts 44 Ketch with dinghy davits

JEANNEAU 57

Pure sailing, pure pleasure.

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J.J.

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16538_AP_57_155x240_Thaïlande.indd 1 31/10/12 14:08

LATITUDES Summer 2013

10

Club NewsA round-up of news from World Cruising Club supporters Ocean Crew Link – connecting sailors

Specializing purely in ocean sailing opportunities, OceanCrewLink.com is our new online directory of sailors and opportunities, which aims to connect boat owners with offshore sailing crew.We wanted a new way for captains and crew to be able to contact each other; somewhere for ocean sailors to meet ocean going captains and provide an easy way for crew and captains to see if they “like the cut of your jib” when judging whether to join a boat or choose a crew member.

Registration is easy and free! Just visit the website at www.oceancrewlink.com and click the registration icon. You will need to add some basic data to your profile before you can view other opportunities or crew in full. Then you can go back when it suits you to add more detail. You can even add a photo! Remember the more detail you add about your own experience, voyage history or skills, the more you will stand out from other sailors.World Cruising

Club USA

Andy Schell and his wife Mia Karlsson are the new team at the helm of World Cruising Club USA, responsible for the Caribbean 1500 and Atlantic Cup rallies, plus our US seminars.The couple will be familiar faces to those who have sailed with us before since they have worked on a variety of our rallies over the last 3 years. Andy, a USCG and RYA Yachtmaster Ocean licensed captain, has also sailed 3 times in the Caribbean 1500, as well as transatlantic ARC Europe rally. Andy and Mia were married in June ‘11 and sailed their 35-foot yawl Arcturus from the Chesapeake to Sweden 2 weeks later, via Canada, Ireland and Scotland.


11

Port Annapolis News

Port Annapolis Marina, one of WCC USA’s corporate sponsors, has completed construction of their new on-site Ship’s Store chandlery. Port Annapolis aims to be a one-stop-shop for yachts visiting Annapolis on their way up the Chesapeake, with a full-service boatyard and ship’s store combined with a family-oriented marina complete with cafe and swimming pool, all in lush natural surroundings on Back Creek in Eastport.

Make sure to visit Port Annapolis on your way up the Chesapeake or prior to the ARC Caribbean 1500!

West Marine

West Marine Annapolis is the new ‘home store’ for World Cruising Club USA events.Participants in ARC Caribbean 1500, ARC Bahamas and Atlantic Cup events will receive Port Supply discounts at all West Marine stores nationwide, with the Annapolis, Maryland location taking the lead.

A New Home Port for USA EventsWorld Cruising Club has recently announced that Portsmouth, Virginia will be the new homeport for its sailing rallies held on the east coast of the USA. The City of Portsmouth annually welcomes sailors taking part in the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. Some 50 tall ships take over the town for a weekend of festivities in October, the historic waterfront town providing the perfect backdrop, and now that atmosphere will carry over into World Cruising Club’s USA events.

Yachts joining the ARC Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas will set off from the Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth, a world-class marina complex with an on-site state-of-the-art refit yard, yacht chandlery and comprehensive yacht services. Portsmouth will also welcome yachts joining ARC Europe from the US east coast, and those returning from the Caribbean as part of the Atlantic Cup.

Nanny Cay

Nanny Cay Marina, World Cruising Club’s Tortola host for ARC Caribbean 1500, Atlantic Cup and ARC Europe, is continuing an extensive renovation program.

“We’ve done three projects this season,” Nanny Cay Marina’s General Manager Miles Sutherland-Pilch explained. “The first was the slips down by the fuel dock which have allowed us to get some bigger boats in there,” he added. “When it comes to events like this, those extra few slips make all the difference.”

The marina has also added new drainage canals to enhance the water quality at the docks, and has completed work on the new land reclamation project for the boatyard.

“We’ve added just over two acres of new boatyard land in the area to the northeast of Nanny Cay in what was the old shallow lagoon,”

Miles continued. “It was quick, literally 6 weeks to completion. 14 trucks doing 18-20 loads of stone a day at one point!” The project increased boatyard storage capacity by 50 catamarans or 100 monohulls and will be a boon to the marina’s dry-sail program, popular in the past with rally participants.

The continued expansion projects include 58 new storage locker facilities as part of the new building that Key Electronics and Caribbean Technologies will occupy upon its completion.

“Eventually we’ll add a new chandlery which will then allow us to put a bigger supermarket where the chandlery is currently, and on and on,” Miles added. “We’ll continue to invest in the place and try and listen to what the boaters want. It just gets busier and busier.”

Watt&Sea is the inventor of the new generation of hydrogenerator. This innovation offers the best solution for energy autonomy when cruising or racing. The best skippers around the world choose it, a true mark of respect and confidence in this more than powerful equipment.

All our hydrogenerators produce more power than is consumed by the boat! Thanks to its minimal drag and perfect hydrodynamics, our Cruising models produce 120W in 12 or 24V at 5 knots. Above 5 knots, the 500W generated by the system (40A-12V/20A-24V) enables you to sail in positive energy and re-charge your batteries for use at anchor.

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13

Rally News

ARC – two starts planned for 2013For the first time since its creation in 1986, ARC sailors have a choice of routes with the introduction of ARC+ Cape Verdes. The islands are ideally placed for boats to sail ‘south until the butter melts’; their latitude at 16º50’N is right in the path of the trade winds, promising a great sail for the passage to Saint Lucia. ARC+ will include a 3 to 5 day stop-over at Mindelo, providing crews with an opportunity to discover the enchanting local culture, lively nightlife and bustling food markets that make these islands a fascinating destination in their own right.

ARC+ will have a week long programme of activities in Las Palmas, including parties and preparation lectures, as well as fun socials in Cape Verdes and Saint Lucia. A separate prize-giving party will wrap-up the fun just as the earliest arrivals from the second start make landfall, giving ARC+ yachts more time to enjoy some Caribbean cruising before Christmas.

ARC Caribbean 1500

2013 sees a new home port for our US events with ARC Caribbean 1500 starting from Portsmouth Virginia on 3rd November. Returning ralliers and new faces will assemble for the week-long pre-departure program, and for the first time for the ARC Caribbean 1500 they will all be docked together prior to departure. The destinations for America’s longest-running and most popular rally are Bluff House Marina on Green Turtle Cay in the Abaco Bahamas and Nanny Cay on Tortola, British Virgin Islands.

New Route for Atlantic Cup

Old Bahama Channel Fleet Heads to Fort Lauderdale

For the first time in 2013, seven yachts took the start with Atlantic Cup as part of the Old Bahama Channel route. The small fleet departed Tortola on the same day as the “northern route” – the Bermuda bound boats in ARC Europe and Atlantic Cup - and aimed west, following the route just north of Cuba before finishing some 1,000 miles later at Bahia Mar Marina in Ft. Lauderdale.

Kinship, the Saga 43 that recently completed an Atlantic Circle with World Cruising Club, led the OBC fleet into Ft. Lauderdale.

“In short, the participants got a real taste of off-the-wind sailing,” wrote Miles and Anne Poor of the Tayana 55 Karina. “We had two days of 11-12 hours of spinnaker flying, with boat speeds in the 7-8 knots.”

The route represents an intriguing alternative to the proper ocean sail north to Bermuda that the rest of the Atlantic Cup fleet embarked on. The Old Bahama Channel is more or less protected from the Atlantic swells by the Turks & Caicos and Bahamas islands to the east, and Hispaniola and Cuba to the west.

The fleet rendezvoused at Bahia Mar Marina in Ft. Lauderdale, which had reserved space together for them amongst the megayachts and motorboats, with MRP Refits providing the traditional rum punch on arrival. And Ft. Lauderdale lived up to its reputation as the land of extremes, abounding with stretch limos, exotic cars and beautiful people.

Caribbean 1500 veterans Scott and Jennifer on Pendragon, diverted to Key West and made their arrival in mainland USA’s southernmost town around the same time the majority of the fleet landed in Lauderdale.

The Old Bahama Channel marked the end of the line for the USA-bound Atlantic Cup fleet who subsequently split up and made their way back to their home ports on the US East Coast.

“This was a trip all will talk about for the next months,” said one of the crews.

The event is set to be an annual affair as part of the Atlantic Cup and is an ideal way for yachts to sail direct to the southeast USA while receiving all the benefits of a professionally organized World Cruising Club event.

14


World ARC

As the World ARC 2012-13 fleet reach the end of their own journey of a lifetime, for others the adventure is just beginning. 47 yachts are set to join the next edition leaving Saint Lucia in January 2014, after which the rally will have a yearly start.

From 2015, there is an exciting new route choice to discover South America before re-joining the main fleet in Tahiti. Those opting for the “cold water route” will set off from Europe in late 2014 sailing from Portugal to Brazil via Madeira, the Canary Islands and Cape Verdes. Heading south the cruise calls at Uruguay and Argentina before exploring the Beagle Channel and Chilean Canals. With two months to explore Patagonia there is plenty of time to enjoy this unique wilderness before heading out across the Pacific via Easter Island, Pitcairn and Gambier to meet up with the “warm water route” in Tahiti.

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15

24 NovemberARC 201328th edition of the world’s most popular cruising rally from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia.

4-12 JanuaryLondon International Boat Show Meet the team and talk about sailing rallies.

4 & 11 JanuaryBluewater Cruisers Question TimeAn introduction to ocean sailing held at the London Boat Show

11 JanuaryWorld ARC 2014-15Start of 15 months circumnavigation rally via Panama Canal, Australia and South Africa

23-26 JanuaryChicago Strictly Sail Boat ShowJoin the WCC USA team and the ‘Prairie Pirates’ in the midwest next winter!”

22-23 MarchOcean Sailing SeminarA two day seminar held in Annapolis, MD with expert speakers covering all aspects of ocean sailing.

World Cruising Club Programme

2013/2014

3 MayAtlantic Cup & OBC ChannelTortola BVI Cruising rally from Tortola BVI to Bermuda then on to USA.

3 MayARC EuropeTortola BVI and Portsmouth VA Start of west-east transatlantic rally visiting Bermuda and Azores.

23 - 24 MayOcean Cruising CampOslo, Norway Step aboard an ocean cruising yacht and learn from the experts at this free weekend event.

1 JuneARC PortugalPlymouth UK Cruise in company from Plymouth across Biscay then day sailing down the Portuguese coast to Marina de Lagos.

2013

2014

6 JulyMalts CruiseWhisky-themed cruising around the islands and anchorages of western Scotland

14 SeptemberBluewater Cruisers’ Question TimeSouthampton, UK An introduction to ocean sailing held at the Southampton Boat Show

10-14 OctoberUnited States Sailboat ShowMeet the World Cruising Club USA team in Annapolis

12 October Bluewater Cruisers’ Question TimeAnnapolis MD, USA An introduction to ocean sailing held at the US Sailboat Show

3 NovemberARC Caribbean 1500Cruising rally from Portsmouth VA to Tortola BVI.

3 NovemberARC BahamasCruising rally from Portsmouth VA to Bahamas.

10 NovemberARC + Cape VerdesNew route option via Cape Verdes to Saint Lucia

• New owners and management• 8 new guest room suites overlooking the Sea of Abaco• 1,2,3 bedroom villas for rent. • 38 slip marina• 100 seat Jolly Roger Bar and Bistro with pool overlooking the marina• 60 seat brand new Bluff House Beach Bar and Grill

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Historic Bluff House is back

16


Mike and Donna Hill circumnavigated in their Oyster 56 Baccalieu II, completing the second half of their journey with World ARC 2008. Whilst enjoying the Pacific they opted to take time out of the traditional warm water route and head south to explore New Zealand.Having just completed a passage from Fiji…

We barely got a glance at the northern most point of New Zealand before night fell. It appeared like a dusty mirage on a bleak grey cloudy horizon then the night sky consumed it and all we could see of it were the orange squiggles on the radar screen. But we knew it was out there and it was great to see it even in that state.

Opua is highly organized to receive international boats and encourage boaties (we were known as boaties here, yachties in Fiji), to fax ahead all necessary information required to enter the country before arriving. As well, they prefer recreational vessels to check-in with one of the coastal marine radio stations at least four hours before arrival and encourage the use of one of the local radio freelancers who standby on various stations to assist approaching boats with advice.

The dock in Opua

Baccalieu II at anchor

New Zealand Discoverycruising the land of the long white clouds

“Port Fitzroy presents itself with rugged rock formations falling deep into the sea, soon to resurface bare and threatening in the path of the approach”

17

www.worldcruising.com CRUISING REPORT

In turn, these stations will contact the necessary authorities and arrange for them to meet new arrivals at the Customs Clearance Wharf.

Our arrival around midnight was too late to receive clearance from customs resulting in having to tie up to the floating quarantine dock located off shore in hopes of eliminating any agriculture contamination by arriving international boats. We were happy just to go to bed and have at least part of a good night’s sleep in a stationary bed.

When quarantine arrived at nine the following morning they headed straight for our freezer. They were very efficient there too. They removed all our frozen meat and prepared food we had not eaten on passage; prepared lasagna, chicken cannelloni, beef stew, chili, and soups, even my stuffed breads because they contained either cheese or corn beef. All of it went straight into green garbage bags where it would stay until it received a sterilizing steam treatment and eventually a burial. Believe me that was sad.

I had already dumped the dairy products and honey and had been forewarned before leaving Musket Cove about emptying the vacuum bag and cleaning the soles of our shoes. I had done all that before leaving Fiji. Prior to entering the 30 mile New Zealand perimeter, I had cleaned out the vegetable storage areas under the floor boards tossing over potatoes, onions and garlic including any dirt that may have fallen off. Before leaving Mike had spent hours cleaning the boat’s bottom in anticipation of an inspection which we were informed would be carried out on arrival, but never was.

The quarantine officer looked through our canned goods identifying items produced in Ecuador, especially milk or milk products including mayonnaise. Apparently Foot and Mouth disease can be carried in these products as South America does not have the necessary high standards to eliminate the possible contamination. Those were directed to their fiery death as well.

“Kaikora Island is amass with tropical ferns colored in a wide palate of greens”

A few days later we took our boat south to where we docked on the northeast side of the North Island in Gulf Harbour, a large well-serviced marina about fifty minutes from Auckland; a good place to sit out a cyclone season. While there we drove to Auckland several times to order more navigation charts, shop in some real chandleries and to pick up parts for the boat. If you can’t find a boat part in Auckland, you can at least find an operation that will order it and have it there within a few days.

In the following days we flew to Queenstown where we rented a car to spend two weeks traveling throughout the South Island, hiking virgin rainforests, climbing glaciers, visiting Fiordland in Milford Sound and engaging in some pretty exciting left hand driving up the west coast. New Zealand is so exciting to visit.

Before heading back to Fiji we spent a few days at Great Barrier Island, New Zealand’s fourth largest island in the Hauraki Gulf and where you can find several good bays in which to anchor. Port Fitzroy presents itself with rugged rock formations falling deep into the sea, soon to resurface bare and threatening in the path of the approach, but once in, spreads open to a large bay offering many smaller bays in which to drop anchor.

They say New Zealand has the greatest variety of ferns in the world and Kaikora Island is amass with tropical ferns colored in a wide palate of greens sweeping with camouflaging beauty, underbellies curled brown and spent, some standing ten feet tall like nature’s own patio umbrellas. Paths thick and softened with brown pine needles lead through dense forests, hills and gullies protected by stairs, deep gorges spanned by bridges, streams slowly filling a series of pools, each lower than the other like a planned botanical garden.

Smoke House Bay, named for the smoke shack standing amongst trees just back from the beach, offers a chance to smoke up the days catch over

a fire of fallen branches. A water tank waits for a sailor hankering for a bath and can be heated with a little patience and the help of an outdoor wood fired stove. The bathtub rests inside a shack behind a large picture window overlooking the bay. Candles left by previous bathers sat on a shelf. If an outdoor bath is more to one’s liking, there is one of those too. If laundry is the need of the day, five hand wringer washers connected to well water sit near picnic tables while a lengthy rope-swing dangles from a tall branch. All with a view of the bay.

Before returning to Opua where we would clear customs for our return to Fiji, we enjoyed some leisurely cruising in the Bay of Islands, one of the most popular cruising grounds in New Zealand. With 144 islands to choose from, we chose what we had time for.

Our last anchorage was Robertson Island, one of those long narrow islands, offering an inviting beach with a bay wide enough to handle several day cruisers who often escape the city in good weather on weekends.

Bay of Islands

Meeting the local inhabitants

Milford Sound

19

www.worldcruising.com CRUISING REPORT

That evening, after the last boat gathered enough mussels from the side of the cliffs to head back home to the mainland for a feed, we had the bay to ourselves. The sun was not far from setting as we drove the dinghy to the abandoned shore. Following a path that led to stairs, we reached the top of the cliff. Ocean swells blasted with furry against the rugged windward coast while Baccalieu sat peacefully waiting for our return in the sheltered bay below. In my back pack was a bottle of wine and two glasses.

It was the perfect anchorage to say goodbye to New Zealand and all she had given us.

Excerpts from an upcoming book “Yes, the World is Round” by Donna Hill.

Exploring ashore in Fiordland

New Zealand - ProfileNew Zealand is a favorite place to spend the cyclone season in the South Pacific and it has a good reputation among cruising sailors as the place where everything can be fixed, upgraded or replaced. Marine facilities are of a high standard in the North Island, particularly around Auckland, Whangarei and Port Opua in the Bay of Islands.

The Bay of Islands in the north is a favorite place of entry and the cruising there is so pleasant that some visiting yachts never leave this large protected bay dotted with the many islands that provide its name. In addition, Port Opua and the Opua Marine Park offer a comprehensive service for refit or to safely leave a boat.

Sailing south from the Bay of Islands or Whangarei, it is worth taking an offshore tack to call at Great Barrier Island before heading for the Hauraki Gulf and busy Auckland. Auckland is branded the City of Sails because it has a huge local fleet and excellent cruising grounds. It is the yachting capital of New Zealand and virtually every marine facility, service and brand is available in the central city Westhaven-Viaduct area.

Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty has also become popular as a port of entry with yachts arriving from Tonga, as well as a stopover for yachts during the cyclone season.

Other highlights of a southbound trip are the capital Wellington and, across Cook Strait, picturesque Picton and the Marlborough Sounds.

Sailing conditions around the lower South Island are more challenging and those who are short of time can enjoy the majestic scenery by cruising on

four wheels. If however you have plenty of time to wait for suitable weather windows, January and February are the best times of year to attempt cruising around the South of New Zealand and to Stewart Island. It is particularly difficult to cruise beautiful Fiordland on the remote south west coast because of exposed open-ocean approaches and deep water anchorages in the fiords.

The east coast of the South Island has several attractive harbors such as Dunedin, Timaru and Lyttelton, but none rival the beauty of the Marlborough Sounds, which also has the advantage of being more accessible when sailing down from the north.

Cruising yachts are increasingly visiting Nelson, at the northern end of the South Island in Tasman Bay. Nelson is the country’s biggest fishing port; with a good range of marine facilities

Weather

The climate is varied from subtropical in the north to snowy mountains and glaciers in the south. The summer from November to March is the more pleasant season, while the winter is wetter and windier. The South Island is generally cooler in both summer and winter. Although out of the tropical cyclone area, occasionally the tail of a cyclone reaches the North Island (in February or March). Lying in the westerly wind belt, the east coast is more sheltered and the main yachting centres are along that coast.

Russell Radio, located in the Bay of Islands, provides weather information for the Western Pacific

Working 7 days a week all year round. All times are NZST or daylight saving time as appropriate.

www.russellradio.org.nz

New Zealand Weather or www.metservice.com/national/index

New Zealand and South Pacific weather www.metvuw.com

New Zealand Metservice www.metservice.co.nz

Main Ports

North Island: Auckland, Gisborne, Gulf Harbour, Napier, New Plymouth, Opua (Bay of Islands), Tauranga (Bay of Plenty), Wellington, Whangarei, Whangaroa,Whitianga

Off-lying Islands: Chatham Islands, Kermadec Islands, Stewart Island

South Island: Christchurch (Lyttelton), Dunedin, Fiordland Greymouth, Invercargill (Bluff), Nelson, Picton, Timaru.

Further information at www.noonsite.com/Countries/NewZealand

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The Caribbean 1500 cruising rally is the largest and longest-running event of its kind. Started back in 1990 by Steve Black, the rally has come to be defined by great parties, safety-conscious cruising, fantastic company and great sailing. The 2012 edition had all of that and then some.The rally was characterized this year by a wet start and some late arrivals in Hampton, thanks to Hurricane Sandy, and the unprecedented early departure, which saw the fleet off some 24 hours earlier than expected in order to take advantage of a good weather window. Other boats that remained in Hampton had to wait over a week for another window, while the Caribbean 1500 fleet flew to Tortola in one of the faster years on record, with the Hylas 54 Wings making the passage in just over 7 days.

“The decision to leave a day early was the best move the organizers have ever made,” said Miles and Anne Poor of Karina, rally veterans who have sailed over 10,000 miles with the Caribbean 1500 over the years. Their comments echoed the feelings of the rest of the fleet.

Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas

Early start leads to fast, safe passage south

“After 23 years, it’s still the best way to get to the Caribbean!” Steve Black, Caribbean 1500 rally founder

The famous Bomba Shack on the north shore of Tortola.

Crew on Magpie steering in the boisterous weather the fleet had just after the start.

Looking north from Tortola at the Bomba Shack.

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www.worldcruising.com Caribbean 1500 & ARC Bahamas

A close-knit group of 43 boats was set to take the start in early November, including six taking part in the newly minted ARC Bahamas fleet. While the rally has had a Bahamas contingent for several years now, 2012 marked the first time it got it’s own name and logo.

Boats ranged from a classic 35-foot Morgan, Turbos Tub, taking part in the event for the first time, to the big Karina, a Tayana 55 that is a perennial entry. Six catamarans took the start, and boats flew flags from the USA, Canada and Australia. Traditionally the rally is always a family affair, and this year the young crew of Helia kept the tradition going.

“After 23 years, it’s still the best way to get to the Caribbean!” founder Steve Black continues to say. And he seems pleased in his new role in the background while the new organization continues to oversee the events’ evolution. “From the beginning, the World Cruising Club has known exactly what to do,” said Black. “They have immense experience running long ocean events. I am delighted with the job they’re doing.”

That evolution continued in 2012, with the hiring of Andy Schell and Maria Karlsson as the new representatives for World Cruising Club USA. The husband-and-wife team has been deeply involved with World Cruising Club for over four years, as both event staff and as participants, and have sailed on the 1500 several times when Steve Black was running it.

“Andy and Mia’s experience in working on the ARC and Caribbean 1500, and their participation in several World Cruising Club events, most recently ARC Europe, ensures we have a strong team in place to progress our plans for the development of Caribbean 1500, the Atlantic Cup, and other new initiatives in North American.” says World Cruising’s Andrew Bishop.

The rally also expanded its fun prizes this year, adding a ‘Best Moustache’ category to the prizegiving. For the past several years, Nanny Cay Marina have been big supporters of ‘Movember,’ the worldwide men’s health initiative that encourages men to grow mustaches during the month of November to raise awareness for prostate cancer and other male health issues. The British Virgin Islands last year raised more money for the cause than the entire country of Belgium. Caribbean 1500 decided this year to join the fun, and encouraged participants to do the same. The tradition will continue into the future.

HamptonTraditionally, the rally starts at the mouth of the Chesapeake on the first Sunday in November, the earliest departure date allowed by most yacht insurance companies (boats are normally required to stay north of Cape Hatteras before then, due to hurricane season). Weather made an impact early on when the pre-departure program in Hampton VA, was disrupted by Hurricane Sandy, which forced several boats to arrive earlier than expected to get ahead of the storm.

San Picaro skirted in ahead of Hurricane Sandy. The father-and-son duo of Jim and Paul Samiljan double-handed the Alajeula 38 cutter down from Maine. “We had a hard lesson in sleep-deprivation,” Jim, mentioned on the dock later. “We lost a clevis pin in the windvane,” son Paul continued, “and had to hand-steer with the tiller for most of the run down the coast.”

The J/42 Keep it Simple sailed down from Annapolis in very boisterous conditions just as Sandy was nearing the Chesapeake. The crew remained hunkered down on the boat at Bluewater marina through the height of the storm. “It’s good we got away when we did,” said owner Joe Reed. “It was only blowing 15 knots when we left Annapolis. We took one reef when the wind increased to 20 knots, and the second at 26 knots. By the time we got down the Bay, there were six-foot seas - one of which jumped on the boat, filling the cockpit - and pretty strong winds. But it was all coming from behind us, and we made it in all right.”

Blu Dog crew with the original blue dog! Randall Greipp’s Traveling Light looking festive ‘fully dressed’ with code flags flying at Hampton Public Piers.

Crew of Escapade on arrival in Nanny Cay. Right to left: Dietmar, Jim, and owners Shaun and Neil.

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Insurance companies won’t let most boats south of Cape Hatteras before November 1, but the longer you wait, the greater the chances of running into a big nor’easter offshore.

In 2012, Sandy complicated matters in Hampton because about 8 of the boats were hunkered down on the Chesapeake (mostly in Annapolis), and owners were worried about their houses flooding. Several crews flew out from Hampton to tend to their shoreside homes, only to find themselves stranded as far afield as Toronto after several flights got canceled. One yacht was safely moored in the Hudson when the storm hit. They escaped unscathed (the town of Haverstraw didn’t), but they missed the start of the rally thanks to New York Harbor being closed to recreational traffic.

Three days before the scheduled start on Sunday, November 4, it was apparent that another weather system was forming, this time looking more like the typical winter weather pattern. A nor’easter was forecast to brew over Georgia and offshore of South Carolina, moving NE and strengthening significantly. By plotting weather forecasts, marking points at 120-mile increments along the rhumb line (a conservative 5-knot daily average), the rally team determined that the fleet, by leaving early, should be well enough south and east of the center of low pressure to avoid the worst of the weather. They’d have a short period of headwinds and squalls, but nothing too serious. And best-case scenario, they’d get beam-reaching winds in the 20s halfway to Tortola.

Though it may have literally ‘dampened’ the rally crews for a few days in Hampton, Sandy didn’t dampen their spirits. The seminar program was re-arranged due to the weather, but otherwise the program went off without a hitch, and included nightly cocktail hours in the dockside ballroom at Hampton Public Piers, safety inspections (mostly in the rain, to the chagrin of the inspectors!) and the Welcome Reception at the Hampton Auction House, where Hampton’s deputy mayor George Wallace welcomed the rally crews to town.

Several boats missed their window ahead of Sandy and had to hunker down north on the Chesapeake or points further afield, nearly a half-dozen arriving only 24 hours before the start. Rally veterans Miles and Anne Poor aboard Karina spent most of the week in Annapolis with a handful of other boats, including Club Carp, Althea, Escapade, Habits of Health and Moonshadow. They were able to do the majority of preparations there, and when they finally arrived in Hampton, they were ready, and passed their inspections with ease.

WeatherSteve Black, the Caribbean 1500 rally founder, confirmed that 2012 is the first time in the rally’s history that it actually left the Chesapeake early. Fall on the US East Coast is always a difficult time for weather forecasting, and this year was perhaps the best (or worst, depending on your perspective) example of that.

The challenge in planning an offshore voyage in the fall is the tight window between hurricane season and the winter weather pattern.

“

Hurricane Sandy flooded the docks at Hampton Public Piers but otherwise caused little more than a headache for crews in Hampton. Much of the fleet was stuck north in Annapolis, however, due to the storm.

Steven from T’ai Chi at Hampton Public Piers.

By the time we got down the Bay, there were six-foot seas - one of which jumped on the boat, filling the cockpit...”Joe Reed, Keep it Simple

By noon on Friday, during Davis Murray and Peter Burch’s liferaft demonstration, the announcement was made that boats would have the option to depart under a ‘rolling start’ as soon as they felt they were ready following the skipper’s briefing and the issuing of the Yellowbrick GPS trackers. Everyone was enthusiastic. By Saturday morning it was official – the fleet would be leaving early, whilst the ARC Bahamas fleet would sail offshore to Beaufort and wait out the weather window there.

Safety Equipment InspectionsPeter Burch, a longtime Caribbean 1500 supporter and volunteer, headed up the safety equipment inspection team again this year. A key part of joining a World Cruising Club rally are these safety inspections, each lasting approximately 45 minutes and completed before the start of the event. Inspectors look for things like proper liferaft mounting locations, correct use of fire suppression systems and emergency steering systems.

“We provide a second pair of eyes for the captain and crew,” says Burch. “Each yacht, in theory, should be prepared by the time they make it to the starting port, as each rally handbook has a long list to help captains. However, inevitably things get left to the last minute. That’s where the inspection team can come in and provide a fresh perspective on things captain and crew may have overlooked.”

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Most crewmembers on the 1500 are volunteers, friends and family of the boat owners or people met along the way. Eventual overall winner Keep It Simple, the J/42 owned by Joe Reed, had a crew of old friends on board who relished the opportunity for some ocean sailing.

For owners and for crew it is vital to get to know each other and understand each others’ expectations and experience. Going for at least a trial overnight sail and following-up on references – for crew and owners / skippers – is essential for determining a crews compatibility, arguably more important even than their sailing ability. Don’t let the start of the rally be the first time you’ve sailed together.

Several crewmembers over the years are so devoted to the event that they’ve formed a brotherhood of sorts. Known sometimes as the ‘Salty Dogs,’ or ‘Prairie Pirates,’ members of the group, mostly from the Midwest, have been hopping on and off rally boats for most of the event’s history. The Salty Dogs and Prairie Pirates, in fact, were persuasive enough to convince World Cruising Club USA to exhibit at the recent Strictly Sail Chicago boat show, where Loren Thompson, Tom Besore and a host of others volunteered in the booth, assisted with the seminar program and helped host a happy hour at the official Prarie Pirates bar in Chicago, the Weathermark Tavern.

While the majority of the boats find friends and relatives to round out the team, one major advantage of the Caribbean 1500 is its crew referral program. Steve Black always made this a feature of his events, and that tradition has continued under the World Cruising Club. New for 2013 is the addition of World Cruising Club’s recommended crew-finding service, OceanCrewLink.com. Ocean Crew Link specializes in opportunities for ocean sailing. Yacht owners and crew looking for boats can register for free and meet sailors from around the world.

Ocean Crew Link has a special relationship with voyaging rallies like the ARC, Caribbean 1500 and World ARC, and is World Cruising Club’s preferred crew matching service, but also offers opportunities for independent sailing.

“A participant had just replaced all rigging and retuned the mast. We found the retaining ring was missing in the backstay pin. Ouch!”Peter Burch, Safety Equipment Inspection Team

“This year, two big ‘finds’ were a life raft not able to deploy out of a transom hatch (it was improperly packed) and that same raft’s painter was not attached to the boat. Things that the boatyard had done and which the owner had not noticed,” Burch explained. “Bottom line, on that one, it took 20 minutes just to work the raft out of the compartment at the dock. If the crew had needed it quickly offshore, they would have been out of luck,” he continued. “And if it had been packed and stowed and ready to go, and they had deployed it, they would have watched it float away as it was not tied in.”

“Another one I remember from 2012 was a participant who had just replaced all rigging and retuned the mast,” Burch said. “Well, in doing the deck check, we found the retaining ring was missing in the backstay pin. Ouch!”

Ultimately it’s up to the skipper to ensure that the boat is safe to head offshore. But having that second set of eyes is oftentimes invaluable.

CrewIt’s always a challenge finding good crew for a long ocean passage, but particularly so in the fall on the east coast, as the changing weather and potential delays make it very difficult to schedule time off from work. The early departure this year made it easier than a delay would have.

Bill Springer was crew onboard Karina, and got to the boat in Hampton literally only moments before they left the dock. “Miles Poor called me and asked when I was supposed to arrive to the boat on the Saturday,” Bill said. “Around noon I thought”. Then he said, ‘good, because we’ll be leaving right around then!’”

OnlinePart of the popularity of the Caribbean 1500 stems from the ability of armchair sailors to follow the fleet online. Friends and family members, many of whom later catch a flight to greet the boats on arrival in Tortola, can track their boats in nearly real-time thanks to the Yellowbrick satellite tracking system. Each yacht is fitted with a special transmitter, and every few hours positions are updated online.

Beyond that, the World Cruising Club has created an online community surrounding the event and making it more accessible than ever from home, including a dedicated Facebook page with updates from staff and participants, and of course the online yacht logs at worldcruising.com. Each yacht has the ability and is encouraged to send in reports from at-sea via SSB or satellite modem, photos included, which are automatically uploaded to the event’s website and visible to folks at home.

2012 in particular gave people at home a taste of the rigors or ocean sailing in bumpy conditions, as they fleet experienced some exciting weather the first few days at sea.

“What a great day today!” wrote Jeremy aboard Avanti. “I would love to do some sailing but I got busy with our saloon remodeling project.” They’d broken some things down below in a squall one night, but Jeremy remained upbeat about it. “Agnieszka is driving the boat with very fractional main and 130 Genee. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll get the new main and we’ll catch up with the guys.”

Jamie from Miramar and the boat kitty Quixote.

Pizza party at Hampton Yacht Club.

Peter Burch and Davis Murray led the liferaft and flare demos at the hotel pool.

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The logs lend a particular blend of authenticity to an adventure that is sometimes incomprehensible if you’ve never been offshore before. Follow along to the Caribbean 1500 and all of World Cruising Club’s rallies at www.worldcruising.com. While the boats are at-sea, the website is updated daily by rally staff with photos and news stories, and friends and family can follow along on the event’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/carib1500.

At SeaThe decision to depart early was commended by nearly all of the boats in the fleet. “It’s the smartest thing the event has ever done,” said veteran Miles Poor of Karina. “This time of year the weather windows are just so tight, and the longer you wait, the larger the risk of a big winter gale,” he continued. “Great call.”

Most of the fleet reported bumpy weather the second night out from Hampton.

“That’s ocean sailing,” one crewmember said. “That’s why we’re out there. And it was a heck of a lot better than sitting in Hampton and twiddling your thumbs.”

But the payoff was favorable winds the entire way to the Caribbean. Keep It Simple and Calleva each recorded fewer than 24 motoring hours, so it was great sailing all the way.

Rob and Ginny Beams were aboard Helia, the only family boat in this year’s event. Their three girls, Hannah, Eleanor and Mia were excited to be in the islands for the first time, and said they had a blast offshore.

“It was like being on space mountain!” they said, of the experience of doing a night watch and sailing at eight knots in the dark. Helia is a big Slocum 43, and needs a bit of wind to get going. “I thought the boat liked 15 knots,” said skipper Rob, “but it really likes 25 knots!” he exclaimed. During one 36-hour period about halfway thru the trip, Helia covered an astounding 311 miles under sail.

“When the wind finally dropped below 12 knots yesterday we were all disappointed,” said Ginny. “I wanted to keep making 8 knots of boat speed!”

Habits of Health, the Moody 54 owned by Wayne and Lori Anderson lead the fleet for most of the way south. Wayne is a long-time rally supporter, who knows the course well and appreciated the early departure on Saturday.

“When we woke up Saturday morning we generally had a sense that we were going to start the rally that day,” they said. “If we didn’t leave on Saturday, we would have to wait a storm out, which might mean up to a week’s delay. And therein lay the challenge - get south and east of the storm. We’d be ahead of schedule and could use the energy of the storm to propel us further south east to Tortola.”

That’s exactly what Habits - and the rest of the fleet - was able to do. The nor’easter that the rally office was concerned about at the start had been giving New York and New England snow, but it gave the fleet following breezes.

“Our luck changed today!” wrote Escapade. “This afternoon we hooked up 2 mahi-mahi, so it’s fresh fish for dinner tonight. The sailing has been full speed ahead since yesterday (11/6) morning with winds 15-20+ knots. Although a bit bouncy out here, we are making excellent time.”

Randy Jo wrote in their log, “Just a quick note to let you know all is well. Who won the election?” It was Obama of course, but then we ashore tend to forget that while at sea, you’re basically cut off from the outside world! There is nothing quite like a good newspaper when you arrive at the other end.

The BVI fleet managed to stay fairly tightly packed this year, likely owing to the initial rush across the Gulf Stream to get ahead of the weather. That’s another benefit of a windy crossing. In 2011, boats were becalmed for days following a perfect start, and several ended up diverting to Bermuda in order to take on fuel or

trade out crewmembers whose time away from work had run out. By the time everyone reached Tortola, the week-long program of events had nearly finished. In fact, last year several boats arrived after the prizegiving. Not so this year. The tightly-packed fleet arrived within days of each other, and were able to enjoy the full program of events in Nanny Cay.

A few boats remained in Hampton, having had too much last-minute work to do on the boats to depart with the fleet. Miramar, who initially changed to the ARC Bahamas fleet at the last minute, stopped in Little Creek for repairs. Once squared away, they decided to make a go direct for Tortola, and ended up arriving shortly after the prizegiving after a successful passage, greeted on the dock by rally crews still in Nanny Cay.

San Picaro returned from sea after a bout of rough weather and a tired crew forced them back to Hampton. “The truth is we simply weren’t prepared and should not have left when we did, particularly at the back of the pack,” owner Jim admitted. “You had told us the night before leaving that we should not take off if we did not feel comfortable doing so, but I am afraid we did not have enough confidence in our own judgment to make that decision.”

Paul, Ian, and Jim made the difficult decision to turn around and head back to Hampton. They endured a 30-hour slog to windward with high winds and 14-foot seas. To make matters worse, Jim received a nasty gash to his forehead, and was unable to stand watch.

“Once we arrived in Hampton,” Jim continued, “we discovered that we had sustained some damage to the bowsprit and over the next few days we made the necessary repairs while waiting for a good weather window, which never really came.”

San Picaro continued down the ICW to Cape Fear and then sailed offshore all the way to Fort Lauderdale without incident. At that point Jim had to head back to New Hampshire, and a couple of weeks later Paul and Tami continued on to the Bahamas. Their ultimate goal was to make it down to the Caribbean by late winter or early spring.

Crew of Thales offshore en route to Tortola. The best part about leaving the USA in November? The further south you get, the warmer the weather!

Enjoying downwind sailing on the way to the Caribbean!

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“We certainly learned a great deal from the experience,” continued Jim. “First and foremost, it gave us the push we needed to leave Maine and embark on a great adventure. Without the 1500 our trip south would have been far less exciting. It also required us to equip the San Pícaro with state-of-the-art electronics and safety gear that we might not otherwise have purchased. The seminars in Hampton were very helpful and gave us some good insights into the true nature of offshore sailing. We have learned to appreciate good weather forecasting. We have learned that waiting for the right weather window is a virtue. We are also becoming more self-reliant,” he said.

Aside from San Picaro, damage to the fleet was minimal this year, with only the standard wear and tear experienced by a majority of the boats. Paul on Moonshadow spent a better part of an afternoon in Tortola re-engineering his windvane mount. Escapade and a few other boats suffered damage to their electronics in a lightning storm, and Rick Palm of Altair lost a tooth during a tack, but otherwise the fleet came thru unscathed.

“Putting a face to the voice on the radio is my favorite part about the rally,” one crewmember mentioned, talking about the daily SSB radio nets at sea. “Meeting everyone in Hampton before the start was a really calming feeling for me.”

Every yacht in the Caribbean 1500 was fitted with a Yellowbrick tracker to monitor their progress at home, and the fleet was emailed daily position reports as well as weather forecast from Weather Routing Inc. (WRI). Twice daily the boats at sea participated in an SSB radio chat as well, updating each other’s progress, telling fishing stories and giving advice to any problems that may have come up.

Nanny CayBoats began arriving into Nanny Cay late in the evening on November 11, with the Hylas 54 Wings first to finish in just over 7 days, followed closely by Karina and Altair. Each night as boats continued to arrive events were held on the beach in Nanny Cay marina, including several cocktail hours, a pizza party and a couple beach barbecues hosted by Peg Legs. The Nanny Cay events were a big a hit this year, as every yacht that departed with the fleet from Hampton arrived in time to enjoy the majority of the program.

The program was expanded in 2012 to include several seminars on cruising the BVI and the rest of the Caribbean, an island tour sponsored in part by BVI360, and the usual cocktail hours, pizza nights and beach BBQs that participants have come to expect and enjoy.

Henry from Horizon Yacht Charters, a local charter company in Nanny Cay, gave a seminar in Horizon’s ‘Chart Room’ on cruising in the BVI. The room was filled with aerial photos, marked-up charts and local information on everything Virgin Islands, and Henry spent over an hour sharing his local knowledge with the group.

“I was so impressed with his talk that I think I’ll bring the family down and charter here!” said one participant, who’d’ initially thought he’d go from St. Martin or points east. Another is considering putting his yacht in charter management with Horizon, which several current and past participants have done over the winter months to save on the cost of keeping a boat here all season.

Sam from BVI 360 Tours lead two vehicles full of rally participants on a tour of Tortola. Sam and his co-driver showed up right on time (island time,

of course!) a half hour late, but made up for it with cold beer at each stop during the trip around the island, which included Soper’s Hole, the world-famous Bomba Shack, the 400-year-old Callwood Rum Distillery and the very top of Tortola for some 360º views of the BVI and USVI.

The 2012 Caribbean 1500 wrapped up in Tortola with the final prizegiving on Friday, November 16.

The 1500 is unique in that prizes are not only awarded for the first three places in each class of the Cruising Division, based on corrected time, but also for fun and inventive things like ‘Best Fish Story’, ‘Best Diver’ and ‘Best Bruise.’ In short, the prizegiving recognizes everything that makes an ocean passage so special.

The big winners in the Cruising Division were the Shannon 43 ketch Serenity, who took Class A, and Keep It Simple, a J/42 that took both Class B and the Steve Black Trophy for the Overall. Baloo, an Outremer Cat, won the Multihull Division.

Henry from Horizon Charters briefs the crews on cruising the BVI in the Horizon ‘Chart Room’ at Nanny Cay.

A typically mellow scene at Nanny Cay Marina in Tortola.

Andy takes the lines of rally vets Rick and Julie Palm on Altair, their Saga 48. Altair is already registered for the 2013 C1500, and will continue south to St. Lucia to do World ARC in 2014.

View from the top of Tortola during the BVI360 Island Tour.

“I was so impressed with his talk that I think I’ll bring the family down and charter here!”Participant

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In the BVI fleet, The Tempest Trophy was presented to the yacht that best displayed the ‘Spirit of the Rally,’ and was presented by rally veterans Rick and Julie Palm of Altair, who explained its origins.

“It was the first year of the event,” explained Rick, “in 1990. There was a yacht called Orbiter in the rally that year.” he continued. “Orbiter lost her rudder west of the Gulf Stream. It was blowing 40 knots in the stream - we were listening to the drama on the radio - and another yacht, Tempest, stood by for 18 hours until the Coast Guard could come and rescue the crew of Orbiter.”

The Tempest Trophy was given each year since then to the yacht that best combined seamanship, enthusiasm, and helping others. This year the yacht Avanti - who lost their crew two days before the start, but decided to sail double-handed anyway and not miss the weather window - was given the award. On the second night out, Avanti - who had radar equipped on board - guided Helia thru a series of squalls just east of the Gulf Stream.

“They were amazing,” said Rob, the skipper of the family boat Helia. “Jeremi [skipper of Avanti] just called us up on the radio and said ‘follow me!’, and we steered clear of the worst thunderstorms that night.”

“You all really helped us,” Jeremi said to the crowd humbly after receiving the award. “It’s really everyone who makes this event special, we all deserve this one this year,” he concluded.

“It was an overwhelmingly positive year for the 1500,” said rally vets Miles and Anne Poor of Karina. “And the decision to leave a day early was the best move the organizers have ever made.”

BahamasWith the guidance of ARC Bahamas event manager Johnny Powell, the decision was made in Hampton to send the Bahamas fleet out with the rest, but only so far as Beaufort, North Carolina. The storm that the BVI fleet was trying to get ahead of was due to form directly over the rhumb line to Green Turtle Cay, leaving just enough time to sail offshore to Beaufort and re-group.

Susie Q and Mariannina elected to sail direct to Green Turtle Cay after having made a run for it rather than stage in Beaufort with the rest of the fleet. They’d have strong winds, but forecast to be from behind them, and the experienced crews onboard made a calculated decision that in the end proved to be the right one. They carried wind all the way south, and made fast passages into the Abacos.

T’ai Chi talked about the frustration of waiting for weather in their log. “We are not yet on our way to Abacos, though we have some progress in the right direction,” wrote the crew from Beaufort. “We hope the engine can be repaired in that time and that we can head out again on Thursday or Friday when the ICW boats reach us. We are envious of those boats that are well on their way to Tortola, and the two that headed to the Abacos. But we are in a good place to wait for the right weather window, while undertaking needed repairs.”

The beach bar at Peg Leg’s in the Nanny Cay complex is a popular hangout for ocean-weary crews.

Paul and crew from the catamaran Baloo, winners of the Multihull Division, on arrival in Nanny Cay.

“It was an overwhelmingly positive year for the 1500”Miles and Ann Poor, Karina.

Irish Rover ended up making their own way south via the ICW and short hops offshore while T’ai Chi finished repairs and Turbo’s Tub caught up after a delayed start in Hampton. Mariannina very narrowly edged out Susie Q to arrive first into Green Turtle Cay, both having gone nonstop from Hampton, and a few days later the rest of the ARC Bahamas fleet caught up to join in the festivities. A small prizegiving dinner was held at the resort ashore, and stories were shared by all.

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Without doubt, an uncontrollable fire is the one thing that most frightens us. On a yacht at sea, a fire can quickly become a danger to the boat and the lives of the crew. We look at an experience of fire on board, and what can be lessons can be learned for all cruisers.

Classic CruiserHamble School of Yachting instructor Matt Sillars was helping with the delivery of a 30 year old Swan from Italy back to the UK. With Matt was another RYA instructor, plus the owner and a friend. The boat had undergone a full refit in Italy, including new sails and safety equipment. Although old, it was well-built and appeared to be in good overall condition, and was certainly suitable for the planned voyage.

One night, the boat was sailing around 60NM off the Italian coast on a broad reach in a moderate breeze. Three people were in the cockpit and one asleep in the aft cabin. Matt saw flames by the aft toilet window, and went below to investigate.

Fire AfloatLearn from real life experiences

““From seeing the flames to abandoning ship probably only took two or three minutes” Matt Sillars

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Once below it was obvious that the fire was serious, with thick choking smoke. Three extinguishers were used, but it wasn’t possible to dampen the flames. The sleeping crewman was evacuated to the deck while an attempt was made to send a MayDay message on the VHF.

The radio had no DSC emergency button, and there were language difficulties with the ships that responded to the emergency call. This resulted in the boat’s position being recorded incorrectly. The fire was spreading so fast the May Day message had to be abandoned so the crew could evacuate the ship.

In the minute or two that had elapsed, the deck crew had tried to throw the cooking gas bottles overboard, one sustaining a nasty cold burn when the regulator on the live bottle sheared off. The liferaft was deployed, but the ship’s EPIRB and grab bag couldn’t be reached in their position by the saloon table.

By this point the flames were at boom height. Matt says “The massive thing for me was the speed which everything happened. The whole sequence, from seeing the flames to abandoning ship probably only took two or three minutes.”

Abandon Ship

The raft was launched from the windward quarter, to keep upwind of sparks and flames. The three original deck crew were all wearing lifejackets, but the man sleeping below was unable to reach his lifejacket in time.

Getting into the raft proved difficult and there was no knife to cut the painter, so a sharp multi tool knife was used; not something you would normally chose to use in an inflatable raft! They quickly discovered that the torch and batteries were loose in the water in the bottom of the raft, so had no light. The instructions on the flares were illegible in the dark, adding to the confusion. Matt activated the personal locator beacon (PLB) attached to his lifejacket, and fortuitously had a satellite phone in his jacket pocket – there wouldn’t have been time to fetch one from below. The sat phone quickly got Falmouth Coastguard coordinating the rescue with the Italian authorities, but it still took three hours before they were rescued.

Postscript

The boat was eventually salvaged by a fisherman. It is thought that a seacock hose melted, and the water eventually extinguished the fire. The quality of the construction probably saved the boat - cheaper bulkheads would have burned straight through. The cause of the fire was never completely established, but was possibly a fan in the toilet.

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What Are the Chances?Matt’s experience is just one of many – last year a new racing yacht had to be withdrawn from the ARC after it caught fire and sank while taking part in a Mediterranean race. The circumstances were very similar, with the crew almost overcome with choking thick smoke and unable to fight the rapidly spreading fire, abandoning to the liferafts without reaching the EPIRB or grab bag. This yacht had a VHF in the cockpit, which at least allowed them to contact the authorities before leaving the boat to burn.

Admiral Yacht Insurance has had extensive experience of dealing with claims for fires on board yachts. Managing Director Robert Holbrook says “We have settled 24 fire claims in the last 15 years, totalling $1.15 million of losses. Our most expensive claim was from a large Grand Banks motor yacht which suffered an engine fire off Antigua in 2007. We also recently paid for the total loss of a Hallberg Rassy that caught fire in Scotland as a result of a defective dehumidifier.”

Robert adds “The most common causes of fire in our experience are associated with engine and machinery, accounting for 41% of fire claims. One third are as a result of fires on adjacent boats or buildings, 9% for galley fires and 4.5% for cabin upholstery fires. The effect of fires onboard can be devastating and keeping electrical cables in good order and looking out for fuel leaks are key prevention priorities, together with having sufficient extinguishers readily available to tackle engine and machinery fires in their early stages.”

““The effect of fire on board can be devastating” Robert Holbrook, Admiral Insurance

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Lessons LearnedThe key message from Matt’s experience was the speed with which the fire spread, rapidly becoming unmanageable. This meant that there was no time to get the grab bag, extra lifejackets, or really to fight the fire. Some suggestions to consider on your own boat:

• Install smoke alarms in the cabins; in both examples the fire wasn’t noticed until it had taken hold, and crew sleeping below were at risk

• Keep the grab bag, EPIRB and spare lifejackets close to hand in the cockpit

• Keep a charged satellite phone in the grab bag

• Throw spare gas/LPG bottles over the side, but take care with the ‘live’ bottle

• Chose a DSC VHF linked to GPS to quickly send a MayDay with automatic position reporting

• Think about communications, and have suitable equipment available in the cockpit

• Buy the largest fire extinguishers you can reasonably install

• Install fire extinguishers in the sleeping and living cabins, and in the cockpit locker

• Check the quality of wiring, fuel hoses, gas installation and other fire risks

• Don’t buy a cheap liferaft; they’re not well made nor well equipped

• Familiarise yourself with flare operation; each type may be different

• Don’t assume rescue will come quickly. Even with boats around and close to shore it took 3 long cold hours to rescue Matt and the crew

Further Reading The Crash Test Boat

Yachting Monthly took a 40ft boat through 8 disaster scenarios and this high-octane, action-packed book shows you how to avoid and troubleshoot a disaster at sea. The Crash Test Boat takes the drama out of a crisis and demonstrates how to stay afloat and stay alive when the chips are down – as well as how to avoid disaster in the first place. The book also features scannable QR codes which link to live-action crash test films, that literally bring the pages of the book to life.

Crash Tests by Chris Beeson Edited by Paul Gelder Published by Adlard Coles Nautical ISBN: 9781408157275

Fighting FireWCC requires all boats taking part in rallies to have at least two fire extinguishers on board, plus a fire blanket in the galley.

Charlie Mill, Managing Director of Ocean Safety, says “Typically on a 40 to 50ft yacht we would recommend carrying a 1kg or 2 kg (2lb-4lb) extinguisher in each cabin, plus a suitable fire blanket and extinguisher in or near the galley. Engine compartments should also be protected by a suitable system.”

The average cruiser is never going to be as skilled as a professional fire fighter, and the emphasis should always be on escaping the fire, rather than putting the crew in danger. However, basic training in fire safety and hands-on experience of using fire extinguishers could give you more confidence to take the right decisions in an emergency. A good place to start is the ISAF Offshore Safety course which covers all aspects of emergencies at sea. Hamble School of Yachting run ISAF courses year-round, with special dates for World Cruising Club members. www.hamble.co.uk

In the USA, two-day basic fire fighting and prevention courses are also available as a stand-alone course or as part of the STCW Basic Safety Training course. www.mptusa.com

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We all dream of warm waters and the delights of a winter “down island”, but because of local weather, vacation limits or the ties of families, homes and gardens, there will be a trip home at some point. World Cruising Club’s Atlantic Cup offers a variety of routes home, for those heading to the US east coast, attracting returning veterans from the Caribbean 1500, and adventurous European cruisers wanting a taste of the American cruising life.Nanny Cay, Tortola in the British Virgin Islands is the Caribbean homeport for World Cruising Club’s North American rallies, acting as arrival port in the fall and a departure rendezvous for the late spring as boats head north and out of the hurricane season weather concerns. The rally offers the traditional route home, via Bermuda and for those with less time, a direct route providing position tracking and weather forecasting as cruisers head for points north.

Homeward Bound

Heading back from cruising the Caribbean

“We enjoyed sharing the docks and events with the ARC Europe Rally as we met several new friends from the other side of the pond whom we hope to see again. Once again the Rally team performed to their high level of excellence.”Sherry Day, Trillium

The fleet leaving Bermuda

Customs dock in Bermuda

Flying the flag for the rally

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www.worldcruising.com ARC Europe / The Atlantic Cup

Making it a bigger and better event, this year saw the Atlantic Cup ralliers join forces with Europe bound boats for the first leg from Nanny Cay to St. George’s in Bermuda. Not only did this allow for a bigger and better program in Tortola before the start, but meant a larger fleet sailing together to Bermuda – 27 boats this year. With the usual radio net chats, plus the fleet satellite tracking, crews are in regular contact with each other during the 7 day passage north.

Bermuda offers some last minute sunshine and a final reminder of the Caribbean before the boats head out to sea. Its pivotal location makes it an ideal base to wait for a weather window wherever boats are headed from the Chesapeake northwards. A pre-start weather briefing gives the latest updates from the Bermuda Met-office, and Gulf-stream analysis with World Cruising’s Andy Schell, an experienced offshore yacht captain, offering routing advice to the US bound boats.

This year’s Atlantic Cup rally also included a new route option, with 7 boats heading to Florida via the Old Bahama Channel. The small fleet departed Tortola on the same day as the “northern route” – the Bermuda bound boats in ARC Europe and

Atlantic Cup - and aimed west, following the route just north of Cuba before finishing some 1,000 miles later at Bahia Mar Marina in Ft. Lauderdale.

Kinship, the Saga 43, recently completed an Atlantic Circle with World Cruising Club, led the OBC fleet into Ft. Lauderdale. “In short, we got a real taste of off-the-wind sailing,” wrote Miles and Anne Poor of the Tayana 55 Karina – lead boat for the group. “We had two days of 11-12 hours of spinnaker flying, with boat speeds in the 7-8 knots.”

The route represents an intriguing alternative to the offshore ocean sail north to Bermuda that the rest of the Atlantic Cup fleet embarked on. The Old Bahama Channel is more or less protected from the Atlantic swells by the Turks & Caicos and Bahamas islands to the east, and Hispaniola and Cuba to the west.

US and Canadian boats were amongst the trans-Atlantic sailors of the ARC Europe fleet pushing out from Bermuda for the 1,800nm passage to the Portugese Azores islands.

Celebrating arriving in Bermuda

Flags flying on the dock in Nanny Cay

The Big OceanARC Europe boats sail around 3,500nm over six weeks, from 65˚ to 08˚ west. During the rally every point of sail and strength of wind can be experienced as the boats spread out across the latitudes. Crossing the Atlantic west-to-east is tougher than tradewind sailing, which makes additional crew a popular choice. For the longest passage the majority of boats had four people onboard, but around 20% of the fleet sail just two-up.

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The crew of Johanem, described the conditions mid-Atlantic in their blog:

“Been at sea for almost exactly one week and have covered over 1000 miles with about 825 to go to Horta. We have strong southerly winds which make the boat fairly frisky down below. On the up side we are sprinting along at 9/10 knots with heavily reefed white sails.”

Azores CruiseVisiting the islands of the Azores is the highlight for many ralliers. The itinerary includes Faial, Terceira, São Miguel and Santa Maria, with the chance to visit Pico by passenger ferry. Crews sample the gastronomic, cultural and scenic delights of each island, including the popular street bull running on Terceira; local wines, fruits and seafood; visits to volcanic crater lakes and thermal springs; traditional dancers; and taking part in a local yacht race.

“On each island WCC has organized events, drinks, guided tours and dinners that have provided not only entertainment, but have also helped to create a strong team spirit among the participants” wrote Roberto Grazzini of Ninfea.

Heading East from BermudaHeading out from Bermuda is always a spectacular sight as the rally boats sail out through the Town Cut, the narrow channel out from St.George’s Harbor under full sail.

Pirjo on La Capitana enjoys a rum punch

Setting off from Tortola

Typical Azorean hydrangea hedges

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www.worldcruising.com ARC Europe / The Atlantic Cup

Join UsThe next edition of ARC Europe starts from Nanny Cay, BVI and Portsmouth VA on May 3, 2014, with the final prize giving in Lagos planned for June 15. The Atlantic Cup will head off on the same dates.For full details visit www.worldcruising.com

Horta: Atlantic CrossroadsThe Azores have been the crossroads of the Atlantic since the first days of sail. Horta harbor is always packed with an international armada of every type of boat and sailor, a mix into which the ‘united nations’ of ARC Europe fits well.

Destination LagosAfter cruising The Azores, a highlight of ARC Europe, the majority of boats continue to the official finish in southern Portugal at Marina de Lagos. Each year, some choose to sail north towards the English Channel and others decide to stay longer in the mid-Atlantic islands.

Lagos customs dock at night

Talisman crosses under the bridge approaching Marina de Lagos

Bermuda customs

Working on a Dream

Monday night welcome party in Nanny Cay at the start of Atlantic Cup and ARC Europe

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Circumnavigating the world on a sailboat truly is the adventure of a lifetime for any sailor. The distances are huge; just crossing the Pacific Ocean represents over 40% of the journey around the earth. And World ARC sailors collect oceans as well as nautical miles. In their voyage from Saint Lucia to Saint Lucia, the crews have sailed over 26,000 nautical miles, crossed the Pacific, Indian and Atlantic Oceans and visited many ports in over 17 different countries. We catch up with the 2012 crews on their journey in the Pacific.

Pacific Ocean OdysseyAlthough the sailing is remarkable, it is the islands that are visited on the odyssey across the Pacific Ocean that linger in the participants’ memories. Each island appears more beautiful and intriguing than the last; each anchorage more idyllic; each dive more spectacular. In the words of the Sapphire II (USA) crew: “We have seen so many beautiful sights over our 12 days in the magnificent Marquesas, that words alone cannot describe what we’ve experienced. Sad to leave, but promises of more enchanting experiences ahead!”

Ocean Stepping StonesThe adventure of a lifetime with World ARC

“We have seen so many beautiful sights over our 12 days in the magnificent Marquesas, that words alone cannot describe what we’ve experienced. Sapphire II

Beatoo leaving La Réunion

Le Nez de Boeuf Mountain in La Réunion

Cocos Keeling anchorage

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World ARC spends almost eight weeks in French Polynesia, much of it in ‘free cruising’ mode, with the boats deciding their own routes and itineraries. Arrival in the first Polynesian destination is dramatic; Hiva Oa’s distinctive buttresses of rock and lush forests surround the anchorage in Taaoa Bay, with white clouds circling the mountains above.

From Hiva Oa, the boats made their own ways to the rendezvous in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, exploring the mountainous Marquesas and the low-lying coral atolls of the Tuamotus on route. Fun was had in Tahiti with a have-a-go demonstration of outrigger canoe sailing, which was enthusiastically taken-up by all the children, and many of the adults.

After Tahiti, the fleet explored the other Society Islands: Huahine, Moorea, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora. The blog of Serendipity described the island group as “some of the loveliest cruising grounds” and the Bora Bora rendezvous provided an opportunity for the fleet to get together after a month free cruising to share their experiences; our hosts at MaiKai Yacht Club make this a fun and welcoming destination. Suwarrow and Niue are too small to accommodate the entire fleet, so two smaller groups depart four days apart, visiting these remote islands in turn. Suwarrow is the ultimate Pacific atoll, uninhabited and with a perfect desert island only 800m long. In complete contrast, Niue is known as ‘the Rock’, and has no barrier reef or natural anchorage, but it is home to 1400 people and the welcoming Niue Yacht Club.

From Niue, next fleet rendezvous was held in Tonga, named the ‘Friendly Islands’ by Captain Cook in 1773, and they still live-up to their name, with every meal a feast! The imposing figure of Governor of Vava’u, Lord Fulivai, helped to present prizes to every boat in recognition of the seamanship and sailing skills shown.

Another free cruising period provided opportunities to continue exploring the Kingdom of Tonga, or to move on to Fiji. Eventually the boats came together at the Musket Cove Resort on Malolo Lailai island. “…the first time for a couple of months that all crews have been together in one place, which has led to some enthusiastic partying in the bars and on the boats” wrote Anastasia in their blog.

Port Resolution on the island of Tanna is the first of two Vanuatu locations visited by World ARC. Unique is an over-used word, but it describes the experience of visiting a kastom village in Tanna. This is a relatively under developed and remote community that welcomes passing yachts not just for the income and diversion, but also for some of their daily necessities. The exchange of gifts ceremony provides the community with much needed items like school books, clothing and tools in exchange for handicrafts.

In a kastom village modern inventions are restricted, and a more traditional method of dress and lifestyle are followed; this community is probably the least-developed of all the destinations for World ARC, but is extremely welcoming. Our visit to the village included a welcome dance and traditional feast, as well as a trip up to the active volcano on Mount Yassur. Wind Dancer wrote in the blog: “We were most excited about taking the truck ride up to the volcano at sunset to see the spouting lava. There aren’t words…”

The half-way point: Flexible cruising optionsFrom Port Vila in Vanuatu the boats sailed over 1,000NM to Mackay in eastern Australia, which brought to an end the Pacific Ocean odyssey and marked the half-way point of the rally. There were some changes to the fleet, new arrivals joining for the second part of the rally, and 8 boats opting to take extra time to explore Australia and New Zealand. From 2014, the World ARC will run every year, ideal for those wishing to explore south before joining the next edition of the rally to complete the circumnavigation. For many sailors the pace of World ARC is one of the key benefits: the route keeps away from storms and conflicts; and the itinerary makes it simple to plan family visits and to budget effectively.

Into the Indian OceanThe fleet spent the latter half of 2012 crossing the Indian Ocean. Sailing across this ocean is not usually thought of as enjoyable as its neighbour the Pacific and it is true that for the last few editions of the World ARC Rally, the conditions at sea have been testing. But thankfully the Rally route divides the ocean crossing into a number of smaller passages, making stops on some really enjoyable ‘stepping stones’. What is even better is how the stopovers tend to alternate between different types of landscape and geography, political and economic and also all with different cultural, religious and language mixes. It is a really enjoyable mix!

After departing Darwin, the fleet made their way across the windless Arafura Sea, bound for the island of Bali. The strong Hindu heritage is prevalent with numerous Balinese temples and it is impossible to walk down a pathway or even off a pontoon without seeing the prayer offerings which local people make.

World ARC 2012-13 made a new stop at Christmas Island. This mid-ocean rock is a dependency of Australia but has a really interesting mix of cultures, reflecting its equidistance position from India, Asia and Australia. The island is also worth a visit for its natural habitat too. From Bali, Christmas Island is 15 miles off the rhumb line and almost exactly half the passage distance to the other Australian dependency of Cocos (Keeling) Islands. But the two places share little in common, especially in terms of landscape. Cocos is often called the Jewel of the Indian Ocean making it small but precious stepping stone. If fact on arriving in Cocos, Jane from Trompeta told those still at sea that ‘when you arrive, you’ll see paradise!’. The yachts visiting Cocos stay at the anchorage off Direction Island. It is a low lying, palm covered atoll with a perfect sandy beach and places to meet ashore. It is difficult not to feel relaxed in such a tranquil place.

Sega Dancing Group, Mauritius

Serendipity in Hiva Oa, Marquesas

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Transatlantic FinaleThe New Year of 2013 saw the World ARC fleet reach a new ocean. After spending the festive season cruising South Africa, the rally fleet left Cape Town on Saturday 5 January, bound for Brazil via the mid-Atlantic island of Saint Helena, marking the final ocean leg of their round the world odyssey.

After 12 days at sea in reasonable conditions, the first boats began arriving at their mid-Atlantic pit-stop of Saint Helena. As the fleet went further North, the temperatures rose and the sun shone stronger providing a warm welcome back to the tropics! Whilst on

Saint Helena, crews went to see Napoleon’s Tomb where he was initially laid to rest, following his death on the island.

From Saint Helena, it was 11 more days until the first World ARC yacht, Ruby, made landfall in Salvador de Bahia, Brazil. ‘That was a long way!’ commented Herve Poron as he was welcomed by a Baiana lady, resplendent in the typical costume of the region and presented with a caipirinha welcome drink, a welcome pack of tourist information and a Carnaval Survival Kit, which included a t-shirt, rucksack and water bottle! The arrival of the fleet coincided with the start of the carnival, providing a spectacular atmosphere for the stopover and a fitting welcome following the fleet’s final ocean crossing. Brazil provided a good location for crews to relax and enjoy a free cruising period, leaving them free to explore both at sea and on shore before the last ocean leg of the rally on to Grenada.

Back in the CaribbeanThe fleet experienced spectacular sailing conditions that saw them arrive on Grenada ahead of schedule, with GUNVOR XL and Anastasia both logging consecutive daily runs in excess of 250nm. The final miles to the finish in Saint Lucia featured some of the world’s best cruising grounds and crews were delighted to be back in Caribbean waters. A briefing was given in Granada with tips for cruising the Grenadines, on the way to, Saint Lucia - the final 150 miles of an amazing circumnavigation voyage.

The fleet next took the biggest step of these passages with a sail from Cocos to Mauritius. Although this 2,400 nautical mile passage is the second longest of the route, the yachts had good winds and passage times were fast. It is great that most crews spend almost 2 weeks in Mauritius making it a good place to receive visitors, change crew or explore inland.

With so much sailing experience over the previous 10 months, the next passage could be considered by some as ‘like a trip to the fuel dock’ in previous sailing seasons. The trip across to La Reunion is the shortest leg of the Rally and involves only an overnight sail. However, with some uncomfortable cross seas and some uncooperative winds, it wasn’t quite the trip around the corner which most were hoping for.

The stay in La Reunion coincided with Halloween so it was a great excuse to dress in wonderful, and weird, costumes both connected and unrelated to the theme. It was a lively night!

The last step across the Indian Ocean is probably the trickiest. The route goes around the bottom of Madagascar and west to Richards Bay, South Africa. Typically, care must be taken to negotiate the variable currents off the tip of Madagascar and the strong Agulhas current when approaching Richards Bay. Additionally for this trip, there were strong winds and heavy seas for the first part of the trip which made the whole passage the least favorite for many.

However, arriving in Richards Bay, marks the substantial achievement of crossing the Indian Ocean. And it’s great that the local yacht club, the Zululand Yacht Club, are always so keen to welcome the World ARC fleet. Members of their committee guided boats in using their own boats or were on the docks to welcome the crews with a bottle of bubbly.

Completing the circleThe Parade of Sail and official Prize Giving ceremony provided a fitting finish to the adventure. The fleet paraded up the coast of Saint Lucia accompanied by local boats, members of the Saint Lucia Yacht Club, media and supporters of World ARC in Saint Lucia. On crossing the ceremonial finish line in Rodney Bay, the crews and those looking on cheered and congratulated one another. There was high emotion on the dock and at the IGY Rodney Bay Marina drinks reception afterwards. It was only a matter of time before many of the crews spontaneously jumped into the marina swimming pool to cool down!

A common question at the end of “bucket list” experience such as World ARC is to ask for the highlights of the trip. The crews have been spoilt with some beautiful, fascinating and welcoming places all around the globe and it is a difficult question to answer honestly. But with all those memories and pictures stored away to recall later, even just trying to answer the question is a very enjoyable experience!

The group back in Saint Lucia

Parade of sail in Saint Lucia

Leaving Cape Town

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From 2014 there will be one World ARC rally starting every year from the Caribbean and Australia. This means more choice for cruisers who want to extend their voyage, and for those who need to fly home for work or family.For many sailors the pace of World ARC is one of the key benefits: the route keeps away from storms and conflicts; and the itinerary makes it simple to plan family visits and to budget effectively. Taking time out half way is an opportunity to explore further south before joining the next edition of the rally to complete the circumnavigation.

Circumnavigation to Suit

Caribbean to AustraliaCruisers starting with World ARC in Saint Lucia will be able to enjoy the camaraderie of the fleet and support of the rally team as they head through Panama and into the Pacific more. Those wanting to explore could typically leave the rally in Fiji, Vanuatu or Australia in July.

Cruising Options

Avoiding the cyclone season dictates cruising routes, with New Zealand, southern Australia or the Solomons being safe options. Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia are all established departure points for boats heading to New Zealand in September and October. January-March is the time to cross the Tasman Sea to Sydney and Brisbane (or go in May-June to New Caledonia then Queensland) and join the next World ARC in Mackay or Darwin in August-September.

Australia to the CaribbeanWorld ARC arrives in the Caribbean in April, allowing southern hemisphere boats time to explore before they need to lay-up or sail away for the hurricane season, set as June-November by most insurance companies. With World ARC departing in January, boats arriving in April have either eight or 20 months before joining the rally to return home.

Cruising Options

An eight month cruise could encompass an Atlantic circuit: following the ARC Europe route in May-June; cruising the western Mediterranean; then taking the ARC route west in late November. Take a year and extend through the Med or north to Scandinavia. Alternatively explore the eastern states of America and Canada between June and November before heading back south with the Caribbean 1500.

Idyllic Pacific Anchorage

The World ARC fleet in Flying Fish Cove

Pacific island pilotage Southern Cross

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Smart SailingWith almost 900 responses, our recent apps survey threw up lots of interesting suggestions and comments, and showed that cruising sailors like a mix of tradition and the latest technology.Only 10% of respondents stated they didn’t use a computer at all when sailing, 17% used just a laptop, and half used a laptop plus a smart device such as a smart phone (iPhone, Android) or tablet (iPad, Galaxy Tab etc). Almost a quarter used a smart device alone. Of the 720 smart device users, three quarters have a smart phone and over half a tablet.

As well as hardware, we asked which apps were used for different purposes onboard. These mini programmes are cheap to download from the App Store (Apple) or Google Play (Android) and offer a wide range of boating functions.

Results of the Cruisers’ Apps Survey

Of all the ways to use a smart device onboard, navigation was the most popular, and also the most contentious. Respondents were worried by limited battery life, access to WiFi, strength of GPS signal and the robustness of the devices, but given the limitations there were strong advocates who saw value in a back-up system. Derek Ellinor summed-up the majority of responses: “I find them excellent for planning and answering ‘what if’ questions in odd moments both on and off the water, especially before departure.”

Rolf Oetter, owner of Lagoon 450 Next Life (CAN) had a practical example of a handheld device: “I use Navionics for planning a route and finding secure anchorages.

Nothing beats the easy zooming and panning on an iPad. I also used the iPhone in an emergency when I had to jump into the dinghy to tow the yacht through a rocky passage with strong tide – I was able to avoid all the rocks.”

Leona Boller of X-65 Katherine (AUS) pointed out the value of having additional information sources: “I use different chart software on iPad or iPhone to my PC or chart plotter. When navigating in new areas or risky conditions it is useful to have an alternative view.”

Of the 240 respondents who said they used their smart device for chart work, an overwhelming 86% used Navionics apps.

Other charting apps mentioned were EarthNC, Imray Chart Navigator, iNavX, iSailor, Plan2Nav, Nuticharts, Navimatics, Navipad and Tursejler.

Navigation apps work beyond wifi range because the chart data is stored in the device and the internal GPS provides position data. Linking to an external GPS gives greater accuracy.

“Brilliant for coastal navigation using the iPhone4 which I wear around my neck in a waterproof case. Superb accuracy and detail on the charts which are easily readable.” Alan Moore, yacht Delinquent (GBR)

Navigation

Imray Chart Navigator for iPhone and iPad

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AIS – Where’s that ship?

Most respondents said that they preferred to use onboard AIS systems, but being able to flick quickly between apps including AIS while lying in a bunk provided peace-of-mind for some. The most popular AIS app was ShipFinder, followed by Marine Traffic. Also mentioned were Vessel Tracker and Fleetmon.

Up-to-date Astro

The Celestial and AstroNav apps will completely work through sights. There are lots of star chart apps, some more fun than others. These include Night Sky, Skymap, Starmap, Starwalk and Stellarium.

Other Apps

With new apps being released daily, there is a lot of choice for sailors. Not all are global, and some are Apple or Android only. Some of the most mentioned apps in the survey were:

Tides and Waves

AyeTides, DayTides, iTides, Magic Seaweed, NOAA Buoy and Tide Data, TideApp, Tides Planner, World Tides

Weather and Wind

Buoyweather, iGrib, Marine Weather, PredictWind, PocketGrib, RadarNow, WeatherBug, WeatherPro, Weather4D, Weathertrack, WindAlert, Windfinder, WindGuru, Yachting Weather

Position Fixing, Alarms and Multifunction

Anchor Alarm, Anchor Watch, Boatie, DragQueen, MotionX, SailDroid

Guides, Logs and How-To

Active Captain, Boating Suite, Cruiser’s Nav, Grog Knots, JourSail, Knot Guide, Marine Rules & Signals. And, of course, Angry Birds “To vent frustration!” as Desi Stevens says.

Work Smarter – Handy Extras

Apps like Splashtop turn a tablet on deck into a repeater for the nav table laptop.

An NMEA gateway with a wifi hub enables INavX and NMEAremote to display data from the boat’s GPS, AIS or other NMEA instruments.

For coastal sailing, a signal booster mounted on deck or up the mast will increase the range you can use your device for making calls, sending emails or receiving app updates.

As we all have more and more indispensable gizmos, a number of 12 volt sockets around the boat will save arguments about charging.

“Very user friendly and cost effective and has proved sufficiently accurate for coastal cruising both day and night.” Derek Hook

“Excellent for passage planning and weather information” Robin Fowler, yacht Sundance (GBR) Apps: Here to Stay

While it is true that many of us go sailing to get away from phones and computers, there is no denying that electronics play an increasing part of life onboard. A tablet and some cheap apps provides a cost-effective back-up navigation system, plus it can show movies, take photos and send emails home. Technology is changing, and cruisers are adapting it to their needs.

Starwalk

Shipfinder

AyeTides

iNavX

The only one to be seen with...

Amust for offshore cruisers...The EM230i Inflatable Radar Reflectorwith DuPont metallized array in robustPVC case weighs just 420 grms andfolds down to pocket size for grab bags.QinetiQ recorded an astonishing maxi-mum response of 25.6m² more thantwo and a half times the ISAF, RORC,ORC and WCC requirements. Eachunit is accompanied by a CertifiedQinetiQ linear diagram for the racescrutineer. Suspension from halyard ordinghy/liferaft use with optional 3 pieceglass fibre mounting kit.

For 5 year use at sea of the 230iInflatablecheck out www.Panbo.com

Massive response to X and Sband radar yet consumes aminiscule 23mA on standby -Greatly increases your vesselsradar cross section so helpsto avoid a collision particularlyin poor conditions.Unique below or above deckquadruple alarm facility enablesvisual or audible identificationof S or X band radar - A mustfor offshore passage, singlehanded or night watch.Exceeds ISO 8729-2 and allOffshore Racing Rules. ISAFrules 2012-13 state ‘An RTEis a preferable option’. Masthead, rail or transom mount.

Active-XS-Dual BandActive-XS-Dual Band

email: [email protected] Tel: 00 44 (0) 1371 830216

For full details of all our products see

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Now availableVoted Best Buy PBO-Aug 2010

Echomax Press Ad Latitudes New 2012:Echomax Press Ad Latitudes Hew 2012 13/7/12 11:31 Page 1

Ocean Crew Link

Create your sailing profile now

at...

OceanCrewLink.com

Specialising purely in ocean sailing opportunities, OceanCrewLink.com is a new online directory of sailors and sailing opportunities, which aims to connect boat owners with offshore sailing crew.

Now with over 1500 sailors already signed up to use the service and more than 100 opportunities to sail currently available, oceancrewlink.com offers a unique meeting place for those who love ocean sailing.

“Oceans Of Experience”

Phone: 518.798.1110 Fax: 518.798.4939 Email: [email protected] www.wriwx.com

WEATHER ROUTING INC.Consulting Marine Meteorologists

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www.worldcruising.com Malts Cruise

Whether traveling from far or near, sailing in Scotland for the first time or with years of experience in the region, the Malts Cruise is fun for all. The combination of superb scenery, amazing wildlife, idyllic anchorages, great parties, and of course the world’s finest single malt whiskies, mean that the Cruise has wide appeal.It is no surprise then how far some people will travel to enjoy this unique rally. The 2012 edition was no exception with eight countries represented in the fleet; Australian flagged boat Scot Free III claimed the title of ‘most travelled cruiser’; skipper Iain White, an ex-patriot Scot, had sailed halfway around the world to visit his homeland. The fleet included two American flagged boats, Petillant and Skylark and other cruisers had sailed from Scandinavia via the Caledonian Canal, or up from the UK south coast and France.

Rather than bring their own boats, two crews chose to charter boats locally in 2012, making the Malts Cruise the highlight of their summer holiday. This is a convenient option that has always proved popular with international sailors keen to explore Scotland’s many wonders with bareboat and skippered charters available from a number of excellent local companies. In 2011, a group of friends from Lexington KY chartered two boats for their Malts Cruise adventure.

Whisky, Water and WildlifeCruising the west coast of Scotland

Discovering ScotlandEach year, the Cruise begins in Oban, with a dinner and ceilidh dancing, talks on cruising the islands and a visit to the Oban Distillery, the first of three visited during the two-week trip. In between the shore side socials, crews are free to explore the islands and lochs of the region, before meeting again at the next rendezvous. The northerly route allows the boats to circumnavigate the rugged and romantic Isle of Skye, as well as visiting the Small Isles, Loch Scavaig, Loch Gairloch, Kyle Rhea, Loch Nevis, Mallaig and in Inverie, home to the most remote pub in Britain!

Use Your NoseTutored tastings of single malt whiskies, called ‘nosings’ are held in scenic anchorages along the route, sometimes ashore and sometimes aboard the lead boat. These informal gatherings gave cruisers a truly memorable experience, discovering the links between the landscape and the whisky. Loch Scavaig, one of the most spectacular anchorages on the west of Scotland, tucked in beside the Cullin Ridges on the south end of Skye was one such special location. Here the ‘nosing’ was held right beside the hills that collect the very water used to make Talisker whisky.

worldcruising.com/maltscruise

“We all loved it, to the point of doing it again” Ian White, yacht Scott Free III

“A must-do experience” Mike Medcalf, yacht Taurus

“Great event, nice to meet other sailors, beautiful locations” Jeorg Janssen, yacht Lyonesse

ESSENTIAL READING FROM ADLARD COLES NAUTICAL

For further information and a full list of all our titles, visit: www.adlardcoles.com

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SAILMAGAZINE.COM Boat reviews with on-

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Comprehensive online database of sailboats and gear on sailmagazine.com/ sail-buyers-guide

Charter coverage from around the world

Sailing tips and how-to content for boat owners

Extensive archived content

Authoritative racing coverage

Q&A with SAIL experts

Reviews of the latest sailing products and gear

• The best sailing blogs, now in one place at sailfeed.com

What you’ll find at SAILMAGAZINE.COM

LOADEDWITH NEW CONTENT!

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest to get involved with the SAIL community!

Boating Book Review

45

www.worldcruising.com BOATING BOOK REVIEW

Eileen Ramsay – Queen of Yachting Photography

Eileen Ramsay was at the centre of a unique period in yachting history, and this wonderful book, featuring her classic photography, celebrates an extraordinary woman and her extraordinary subjects. Her unique archive records the explosive growth in dinghy and offshore sailing during post-war years, and includes pictures of the first Enterprises, Mirrors, Ospreys, Optimists and the first America’s Cup 12 metres Sceptre and Evaine. Including tributes from her famous subjects, this is a spectacular celebration of a pioneering photographer and a fascinating time in yachting history and perfect for any sailor’s coffee table.

By Barry Pickthall. Published by Adlard Coles Nautical ISBN: 9781408178416

The latest books for bluewater sailors.

Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago plus Barbados and Guyana

Trinidad, Tobago, Barbados and Guyana are fast becoming the most popular destinations for cruising yachtsmen in the Caribbean. This new edition is the most comprehensive of its type published for this area. Chris Doyle along with the collaborative efforts of Charlene Defrietas, Cathy Whitby, Jeff Fisher and Peter Hoad have explored these islands extensively, offering comprehensive information on a wide variety of facilities, ranging from marinas to haul-out yards and marine repair services.

By Chris Doyle Published by Cruising Guides Publications ISBN: 9780944428962

Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands

After 30 years in print, this book continues to be the best selling cruising guide to the Windward Islands. A wide range of topics are covered in this 2013/2014 edition including the latest information on marinas, marine services, water sports, resorts, and shore-side shopping, restaurants, area sights, regulations affecting the yachtsman and helpful navigational directions. Most importantly, color aerial photography is included to further assist in navigation and provide invaluable information on anchorages.

By Chris Doyle Published by Cruising Guides Publications ISBN: 9780944428948

Cruising guide to the Virgin Islands

Just released, the 2013/2014 edition of Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, is celebrating 32 years of assisting sailors and vacationers cruising the tropical waters of the British and U.S. Virgin Islands. This guide assists cruisers with navigational information and enhances their holiday by steering them to the most interesting sights, the best restaurants and shopping, the finest resorts and leading marine facilities. The Island Directory sections provide valuable telephone, fax, email and website information to make finding island businesses, services and restaurants effortless.

By Nancy and Simon Scott Published by Cruising Guides Publications ISBN: 9780944428955

The Boat Galley Cookbook

When Carolyn Shearlock and Jan Irons began cruising with their husbands, they discovered that boat cooking IS different from cooking ashore. The space is smaller, there are no supermarkets 5 minutes away, you have fewer prepared foods and electric appliances, and food storage is much different. Carolyn and Jan have combined their recipes, tips and substitutions from their extensive cruising experiences to produce The Boat Galley Cookbook; a single comprehensive galley guide that’s needed on every boat, whether for a weekend sail or a cruise around the world.

By Carolyn Shearlock and Jan Irons Published by International Marine ISBN: 9780071782364

• Marina Village with shopping, dining, ships’ chandlery, recreation and guest services

• 253 total berths with a 15ft max draft, 32 megayacht slips

• Full-service boatyard on site featuring 75-ton Marine Travelift, 40-ton self propelled boat trailer and 6,100 square feet of point/refi t shelters vessels up to 285ft

• High-speed fueling

• On-site customs & immigration

Rodney Bay MarinaT: 758.452.0324 • F: [email protected] Connect with us:For Info or reservationswww.igymarinas.com | 1.888.IGY.MARINAS

ISLAND GLOBAL YACHTING: PACIFIC | AMERICAS | CARIBBEAN

14°04'32.72"N 60°56'55.63"W

Home of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers and The World ARC.

47

Noonsite.com – the global website for cruising sailors Noonsite.com aims to provide a one-stop website featuring essential information on all matters of interest to sailors planning an offshore voyage anywhere in the world, whether already underway or still in the preparatory stages. All cruising destinations are covered (currently 193 countries and 1845 ports) with information on clearance formalities, visa requirements, fees, weather, special events and other facts needed by visiting sailors. Also featured are details of repair facilities as well as marine and shore services for every major port visited by cruising boats.

Great new service for noonsite users

Noonsite.com is a huge library of information; over recent months we have been upgrading the site to make discovery and sharing of information on the site easier. Our new Twitter service aims to make it easier for our users to find what they are looking for, and more importantly keep them informed of what is happening in the part of the world they are cruising in.

Twitter is an information network made up of 140-character messages called Tweets. It is an easy way to discover the latest news related to subjects you care about - it is like being delivered a newspaper whose headlines you will always find interesting. You can discover news as its happening and learn more about topics that are important to you.

Now Noonsite.com is on Twitter our followers can receive the latest updates for cruising sailors in real time. Joining Twitter is simple, and will not clog up your email inbox – once you have created your free account and followed @NoonsiteEditor you can easily check updates from us through your computer or mobile device via www.twitter.com, rather than your email account. Twitter feeds can be viewed as and when desired and are always available.

Cruising notes from noonsite.comA round-up of recent news and information for cruising sailors from noonsite.com


Get Involved

Since autumn 2012 we’ve been working to update and improve the way noonsite.com works and add features to improve the site and enhance the benefits to the global community it serves. The latest new feature is “noonsite notes” giving users the ability to comment on any news, reports or data published on the site. So if you had an experience you want to share with other cruisers; found a great service company; want to talk about a marina or anchorage you have used, then noonsite notes is the perfect way to pass on your knowledge.

Cruising Reports

The Costs of Cruising

If you want to know more about the real costs of cruising overseas, the crew of Estrellita have a written great blog with lots of resources and advice. One interesting collection is a list of cruising websites they have sourced by cruisers who have reported on the cost of cruising. Not budgets for dreamers or those in preparation, but reports from people who are or have been actively cruising. Of course, these estimates are for different time periods, with different boats, in different locations, etc, but still a very useful resource for planning your own trip. http://thegiddyupplan.blogspot.com.es/2011/04/cost-of-cruising.html

Concerned about security while cruising?

Visit this page for suggestions and ideas from cruisers for non-lethal ways to protect your crew and your boat. www.noonsite.com/General/Piracy/Self-defence and Deterring Attacks

Panama Canal Agents: Cruisers’ Recommendations

If you are planning to transit the Panama Canal, then you will need to employ a local agent to organise your transit. Visit this page for the latest recommendations from other cruisers as to the agents they have used in the 2012 season.

www.noonsite.com/Members/sue/R2011-06-21-2

iPhone App for Man Over Board

A useful smartphone App is now available for tracking man-over-board casualties. Providing a cheap alternative for those captains without alternative MoB position fixing electronics.

www.noonsite.com/General/MedicalSafety/man-overboard-app-for-iphone

French Polynesia: Permitted Stay increased to 18 months

Good News for all sailors visiting French Polynesia. The local Customs have seen the error of their ways after much lobbying by a number of yachting associations and have now

The new decree (order 401 CM - article 12), concerning Customs’ control of leisure sailing and temporary importation of visiting leisure vessels in French Polynesia, modifies the length of stay in French Polynesia from 185 days maximum a civil year, to 18 months. It was voted in by the Council of Ministers on Monday, March 25th, 2013 and made applicable on March 27th, 2013.

The new 18 month stay is renewable after an exit from the Territory of 6 months minimum.

Any sailors who arrived in French Polynesia prior to March 27th, 2013, are asked to contact the Customs service to find out what the conditions are for their length of stay.

Contact Email: [email protected]

Nothing brings more satisfaction than your own salty tale of life on Saint Lucia’s crystalline seas.

Live deeply like the Amerindians who frolicked for millennia and launched battles in swift moving

canoes. The conquistadors’ caravels dropped anchor in the 15th Century no doubt to stare in awe

at the Pitons. So can you. Saint Lucia’s multitude of secret inlets along scalloped coastline are the

perfect getaway. The modern Atlantic Rally for Cruisers is irresistible. Satisfy your wanderlust in

modern comfort. The full-service international sea ports, the Marina at Marigot Bay and IGY Rodney

Bay Marina, each in a sheltered bay, provide top class amenities. Indulge luxury parties on board with

the beautiful Saint Lucia as backdrop. But come ashore for the full experience, fresh seafood,

Piton Beer, fusion cuisine and world class wines. Capture the mystique again and again.

Sail into Saint Lucia and Live the legend.

LEGENDARY SAILING…CENTURIES OF TRADITION

Caribbean: 1758 452 4094 | USA: 1800 456 3984 | UK: 011 44 207 341 7000 | Canada: 1800 869 0377

WCC Magazine Ad.indd 1 9/23/10 3:38 PM



























latitudes usa 2 summer 2013

Documents

heart of annapolis

lagoon attitude

port annapolis

cruising sailors i

offshore sailing events

pristine pool

brand new clubhouse

fitness center