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RUSHCLIFFE DISTRICT SCOUTS

LASHINGS

Compiled by D. Howard ©

Rushcliffe District Scout Council Registered as a Charity, Number 522469

January 2016

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Page

Diagonal Lashing 7

Filipino Diagonal Lashing 8

Japanese Square Lashing 6

Materials 3

Pole Bundle Hitch (or Scaffold Hitch) 15

Rubber Band Lashing 4

Sailmaker’s Whipping 16

Sheer Lashing - Extending spars 9

Sheer Lashing - Sheer Legs 10

Snake Lashing 14

Square Lashing 5

Stretching Rope 4

Tripod Lashing - Figure of Eight 11

Tripod Lashing -Sailmaker’s 13

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MATERIALS Cordage or Rope

The term cord is used in the instructions to denote any type of string, paracord or rope.

The type of cordage or rope used will depend on the size of the spars being lashed together.

Sisal or other natural fibre cordage tends to grip better than most synthetic materials. Rope of all

materials and larger sisal cordage needs to be well stretched before use.

Mini Pioneering

When the spars being lashed are garden canes or thin sticks and a quick construction is needed

strong rubber bands, good quality parcel string and paracord are all suitable.

General Pioneering

When spars up to 50 mm. are being lashed good quality parcel string, 2 or three strand sisal string

or paracord can be used.

For lashing spars over 50 mm. 4 strand sisal (5mm. or 6mm. diam.) or 6mm. rope is needed, thicker

rope is more difficult to pull tight. A larger diameter rope should be used foot ropes.

Length of cordage

A rough guide to the minimum length of cord required. When longer cord is used any excess can be

neatly tucked away. Avoid cutting cord to length unless absolutely necessary.

Total diameter of spars in metres X 36

e.g. to lash together two spars each 100mm in diameter the length of lashing required

= (100+100)/1000 x 36 = 0.2 x 36 = 7.2m

Total spar diam. in mm Length of lashing in m

75 (3 inch) 2.7 say 3

100 (4 inch) 3.6 say 4

150 (6 inch) 5.4 say 6

200 (8 inch) 7.2 say 7.5

250 (10 inch) 9

300 (12 inch) 10.8 say 11

Spars

Spars can range from garden canes for mini pioneering, 25mm dowel or broom handles or Scout

staves for mini/midi projects to larger diameter poles for bigger constructions, all referred to as

spars in the instructions.

Spars of a suitable length and diameter are required to suite the size of project being built.

Gaffer tape.

A wrap of gaffer tape on smooth spars (like dowel or broom handles) gives the cord a securer grip

on the spars, reducing the risk of the cord slipping.

Frapping turns

For most lashings frapping turns are used to tighten the lashing.

When the spars have been bound together with the appropriate number of wraps the cord is wrapped

round the lashing turns between the spars before finishing with the appropriate knot.

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STRETCHING ROPE

New or nearly new rope needs to be stretched before use so that the lashings can be pulled tight and

remain tight.

Tie each end of the rope to fixed anchors (a solidly fixed post or mature tree) as far apart as possible

and about waist height. Put some form of protection between the rope and the anchor to prevent

damage to both. Old carpet or sacking is suitable. When the rope is fixed push the middle of the

rope as far as possible at right angles to the rope. Relax the rope and repeat a couple of times.

RUBBER BAND LASHING Use for lashings in light, quick constructions. For example when using garden canes.

Loop the rubber band over

the end of one of the canes.

Wrap the band tightly around the

canes being lashed and loop the end

of the band over one of the canes.

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SQUARE LASHING The square lashing is the most commonly used lashing in pioneering and is used where the spars are

liable to slide over one another.

Start with a clove hitch on

the non-load bearing spar.

Wrap the loose end round the working

cord to keep it out of the way.

Pass the working end over

the other spar and round the

first spar pulling tight all the

time.

Bring the working end over the other

spar and then behind the first spar

below the clove hitch. Take the end

over second spar on the first spar

side of the existing turn. Continue

round behind the first spar with cord

above the first wrap. Follow round

twice more. Keep the cord tight.

Make two frapping turns by

taking the cord between the

spars and round the lashing

turns. Keep the cord tight.

Finish off with a clove hitch

on the second spar.

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JAPANESE SQUARE LASHING The Japanese square lashing is an alternative to the standard square lashing for use in light

pioneering.

Apply turns as for a normal

square lashing, but using

both parts of the cord.

Middle the cord round one spar

and then work with both ends.

Finish off with a reef knot

Separate the cords and bring one

cord across so frapping turns can

be applied in opposite directions.

Apply two frapping turns.

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DIAGONAL LASHING

The diagonal lashing is used to stop spars springing apart.

This way of applying the lashing stops the timber hitch from sliping round the spars.

The other method sees the first turns put on parallel with the timber hitch and the second set put on

at right angles.

Make three turns round both

spars at right angles to the

timber hitch. Each turn must

be pulled tight

Start with a timber

hitch round both spars.

Pull tight

Apply two tight frapping

turns round the lashing.

Make three more turns

parallel to the timber

hitch and across the

first three turns. Pull

each turn tight

Finish with a clove hitch

on one of the spars.

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FILIPINO DIAGONAL LASHING The Filipino Diagonal Lashing can be used as an alternative to the original diagonal lashing in light

pioneering. It can be quicker to tie and is finished with a reef knot.

\

Double the cord and make

a slip knot (Larks Head

knot) round both spars.

At right angles to the first

turns make three more turns.

Keep the turns tight.

Separate the cords and put

on two frapping turns.

Keep the turns tight.

Finish with reef knot.

Working with both ends make

three turns round the spars at

right angles to the slip knot.

Keep the turns tight.

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SHEER LASHING Shear is sometimes used as an alternative spelling in some sources.

There are two types of sheer lashing; one is used to extend a spar to make it longer and the other to

make sheer legs.

1 Extending spars

Note: Two small wedges are needed for each lashing.

Overlap the spars by a quarter of their length.

To strengthen the overlap put a lashing on each end of the overlap. If only one lashing is used the

spars will twist.

Start with a Timber Hitch or Clove Hitch

round both spars close to one end

of the overlap.

Finish with a clove

hitch round both spars.

To tighten the lashing drive the wedges

between the spars close to each end the

lashings.

Put on 8 to 10 turns round both spars.

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2 Sheer Legs

The position of the lashing will depend on what the Sheer legs are being used for.

The legs are then opened out to the required distance apart and, usually, a spar is square lashed

between the legs near the base to keep them in position.

Start with a Clove Hitch

on one of the spars.

Finish with a Clove Hitch

on one of the spars.

Make 8 to10 turns round both spars.

The turns need to be fairly tight, but

with enough slack to allow the

frapping turns to be put on. It may

help to put a couple of narrow

wedges between the poles.

Ease the spars slightly apart. Put on 2 frapping turns.

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TRIPOD LASHINGS

Tripod lashings are used to join three spars to make a tripod. The lashing used and position of the

lashing on the spars will depend on the purpose of the tripod.

Figure of Eight Tripod Lashing

Although usually called a Figure of Eight the lashing it is only based on the figure 8.

Lay the three spars side by side with either the three ends next to each other or with the centre spar

in the opposite direction to the other two. Both layouts will work. Try both and decide which works

best for the project being built.

Wrapping of the cord

Trapping the short end from the clove hitch

pass the cord round the first spar, over the

middle spar and under and round the third

spar.

Pass the cord over the centre

spar, under the third spar and up

round it, under the middle spar

and then over the first spar

Start with a clove hitch on one of the spars

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Put on 2 frapping turns

between two of the spars.

Continue the weave for

8 to 10 turns.

The turns should not be

too tight as when the

tripod is opened out the

lashing will tighten up.

Finish with a Clove Hitch

on one of the spars.

Carefully open out the legs. Usually

spars will be square lashed between the

legs to stabilise the tripod.

Put on 2 more frapping

turns between the other two

spars.

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Sailmaker’s Lashing

This lashing is based on the sailmaker’s whipping ( see page 16) and is used for making smaller

tripods which might be used to support a washing up bowl, a bed roll as supports for a rack.

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Make a loop in the cord and put it round one of the spars

as shown with both ends together coming out between the

other two spars.

Make 6 to 8 turns round

all three spars.

Pull the loop up and

place it over the end of

the spar it was originally

round. Pull tight.

With the two ends make a reef knot to lie in the

middle of the spars.

Open out the tripod. Additional spars can

be square lashed between the legs to

stabilise it or the legs can be heeled in to

the ground.

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SNAKE LASHING

Used to make a table top, plate rack, screen, platform or similar construction.

Only one side of the frame is shown.

Middle the cord and attach it to the bearer

where the first cross piece is to be placed.

Put the first cross piece in position

and cross the cords over the top.

Take the strings under the bearer crossing

them underneath. Put the second cross piece

in position and cross the cords over it. Cross

the cords under the bearer.

Add as many cross pieces as needed

crossing the cords over the cross

piece then under the bearer.

Finish off with a Reef Knot. Then

repeat the sequence at the other end

of the cross pieces

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POLE BUNDLE HITCH

Pole Bundle Hitch, for want of a better name, is sometimes called a scaffold hitch.

This hitch is used for securing a number of poles or spars into a secure bundle.

Tie a second lashing at the other end of the bundle to make the bundle secure.

Make an ‘S’ shape with

a length of cord

Pull the free ends to

gather up the poles

making sure the

loops are kept apart.

Put the poles on the cord

and put the free ends of

the cord through the

opposite loop.

Finish off the lashing

with a Slip Reef knot,

a Surgeon’s knot or an

ordinary Reef knot.

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SAILMAKER’S WHIPPING

A Sailmaker’s Whipping can be put on to the end of a 3 strand rope and is one of the most secur

Whippings.

Untwist the rope for a short distance.

Place a loop of twine round one

strand and the ends between the other

two strands.

Re-lay the rope end.

Put on 8 to 10 turns.

Put the loop over its own strand and pull tight.

Finish off with a reef knot on top

of the whipping and between the

rope strands. Trim the ends.

Bring the end up to

meet the working end.

Pull to tighten loop.