Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Collectionhttp://moneywatches.com

This week we’re looking at some of the extraordinary timepieces produced by A. Lange & Söhne, a company that has been around since 1845. It was originally founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in East Germany, but was taken over and shut down during the Soviet occupation of the Eastern bloc during the Second World War. It was to be closed for the next 48 years. In 1990, with the fall of the Berlin Wall and subsequent collapse of the East German government, Lange’s great grandson, Walter Lange and watch industry veteran, Günter Blümlein, set about the task of restoring the company to its former glory. And restore it they certainly did. Their first four pieces were unveiled in 1994, taking the luxury watch world by storm and giving the Swiss some substantial competition.

The Zeitwerk

It is dramatic. It is unique looking. It was winner of the prestigious “L’Aiguille d’Or” (“Golden Hand”) award at the Grand Prix D’Horologerie in 2009, which was the first time the award had ever been presented to a non-Swiss brand. The Zeitwerk’s (“Zeit” is the German word for “time”, “Werk” mean work, so Timework) most distinctive feature is the winged silver time bridge that extends over

the dial to frame the digital hour and minutes displays and small seconds subdial, unifying them into one iconic design statement. Besides its aesthetic appeal, this bridge is also a functional part of the movement. The Zeitwerk is immediately recognizable as a Lange product, with its “auf” (up) and “ab” (down) indications on the power display and unique shape of the hands. The shape of the case also reflects typical Lange styling, and even the digital displays have that familiar Lange look.

The calibre L043.1 movement is equipped with a patented jumping numerals mechanism with three discs, with the time displayed on a large hour ring and two minute discs. Precisely once a minute, a constant-force escapement generates an impulse to move the minute discs forward as required; if you listen carefully you can distinguish the sound signifying a single minute advance and a collective progression of all three at the full hour (24 times a day). Turn the watch over and check out the incredible movement through the sapphire exhibition case-back. Housed in a 41.9mm wide x 12.6mm high case, the Zeitwerk is a tour de force, both technically and design-wise. It is priced at around $70,100.

Zeitwerk Striking Time

With an oversized digital display, inspired by the famous Semper Opera House clock in Dresden, The Striking Time sets a new standard in the world of haute horlogerie design. The watch has two hammers made of black-polished steel. The one on the left strikes the hours, the one on the right the quarter-hours. The twin gongs are suspended in a recess between the dial and the bezel. In quarter-hour intervals, the mechanism triggers a strike on one of the two gongs. A higher-pitched tone signals the quarter-hours and a lower-pitched one sounds at the top of the hour. The position of the hammers confirms whether the watch is in striking or silent mode. The hammers also retract when the crown is pulled out. This allows the time to be set in either direction without activating the chiming mechanism. It features a calibre L043.2 housed in a hefty 44.2 mm case. And the price? $90,800, or in a 100-piece limited edition platinum case with rhodium dial it’s priced at $111,400.

Zeitwerk Minute Repeater

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater helps you both see and hear the time. It is the first A. Lange & Söhne model with a striking mechanism that sounds the hours, ten-minute intervals and minutes – an actual decimal repeater. The dial time is sounded with a low-pitched tone for each elapsed hour, a double tone for each elapsed ten-minute period and a high-pitched tone for each elapsed minute. In place of the conventional slide, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater features an elaborate

pusher system for activating the striking mechanism. To maximize the quality of the sound, the engineers calibrated the movement with the case down to the smallest detail. The power reserve indicator allows the owner to see how much is left for both the timekeeping and the repeater, and it will not allow the repeater to chime if there is not enough energy for it to work properly. Also, the crown may not be pulled out while the watch is chiming. All of these things are meant to protect the incredible 771 component movement. It is 44 mm in diameter, so approximately the same size as the Striking Time. Expect to spend around 440,000 euros ($480,000) for this technological marvel.

Zeitwerk Luminous Phantom

Named after “The Phantom of the Opera” the limited edition Zeitwerk Phantom features a partially translucent dial that gives it a semi- skeletonized look. It has a larger than ever format to assure even better visibility. The Phantom has a PVD-coated German silver “Time Bridge”; black, small seconds subdial (at the 6 o’clock position) and large, luminous Arabic numbers. In the dark, this watch really comes to life – hence its name; the jumping hour and minute Arabic numerals are covered with a luminescent substance that glows for several hours after nightfall.  The Zeitwerk watch features a convex sapphire crystal over the dial, and a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback to allow viewing of the hand-finished Lange movement. A constant force escapement ensures precise switching of both jumping displays. Its case diameter is 41.9 mm by 12.6 mm high. Large hour and minutes windows are at 9 and 3 o’clock and there’s a power reserve at 12 o’clock. It is also a pricey watch – setting you back around $100,000 – but as only 100 of them will ever be made, it may prove to be a good investment.