RUSLAND VALLEY AND FELLS

Landscape Character Assessment

February 2015

2

CONTENTS

Landscape Character Summary 3

Introduction 6

Context 6

Objectives 6

The Scheme Area 7

Evolution of the Landscape 11

Physical Influences 12

Human Influences 16

Biodiversity 24

Landscape Change 31

Landscape Character 35

Overview 35

Method 35

The Landscape Character Areas 37

Areas of Distinctive Character

49 – Lower Windermere 44

55 – Coniston Water 50

56 – Grizedale and Satterthwaite 56

58 – Dale Park 61

63 – Rusland and Crake Valley 67

64 – Haverthwaite and Levens Estuary 72

65 – Backbarrow and Bigland 77

Consulting the Community 82

References 86

Table of Figures and Photographs 86

Reference Documents 88

Acknowledgements 89

Cover image: Rolling hills of the Rusland Valley. © C Barr.

3

LANDSCAPE CHARACTER SUMMARY

Known historically as part of the High Furness Fells, The Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area is bounded by Windermere to the east, Coniston Water to the west, the transitional landscapes leading to Morecambe Bay to the south and the watershed of the low fells before the dramatic backdrop of the high Central Lakes fells to the north. This is a landscape of low but rugged fells, generally 200-300m high, dissected by a number of lowland valleys including the Rusland Valley. The north-south orientated ridges slope generally southwards from the high central fells towards the rivers Levens, Rusland Pool and Crake. From the open pasture ridgetops there are dramatic long distance views north to the central fells and south to Morecambe Bay.

Much of the fell land is densely wooded with semi-natural woodland and coniferous plantations and the area is one of the most densely wooded in England. On the lower fells and in the valleys there is a patchwork of pasture and woodland and a more intimate character as the network of twisting minor roads wind their way through the valley linking

small settlements and farms. A mix of stone walls and hedges reinforce the sense of enclosure.

Figure 1: View from Rusland Heights. © T. Morris.

Figure 2: Ickenthwaite in the Snow. © T. Morris

4

It is a living landscape, shaped by the interaction of people with their environment. The extensive woodland of the area played a key role in its industrial history. It was working woodland, coppiced over many centuries, which provided jobs and fuelled a large part of the economy of the area. This in turn has created a wealth of historic features that tell the tales of past working lives in the woods.

Many of the recorded archaeological sites are connected to industries which utilised the natural resources of the area – wood, charcoal and water power, used to smelt iron, manufacture bobbins and gunpowder woodland, in particular, holds a wide range of archaeological features which reflect the history of human activities.

The scheme area is rich in wildlife with habitats including upland oak woodland, upland and lowland hay meadows and upland flushes, fens and swamps. Species associated with these habitats include many under threat including high brown fritillary, small pearl-bordered fritillary, white letter hairstreak and Duke of Burgundy butterflies; netted carpet moth, dormouse, red squirrel, spotted flycatcher, wood warbler, hawfinch, bullfinch, tree pipit and soprano pipistrelle, noctule and brown long-eared bats. Many of these priority species have a close relationship with the manmade, wooded landscapes. The centuries-old tradition of coppicing creates sunny rides and glades where primroses and violets flourish. These are the foodplants for some of our rarest butterfly species. Ground disturbance through timber extraction promotes the cultivation of Touch me not Balsam, the foodplant for the netted carpet moth, and the low level branches of shrubs and coppice stands create an ideal environment for dormice.

Figure 3: Sniggers extracting timber. © T. Saunders.

Figure 4: Stony Hazel Forge. © C. Barr.

Figure 5: High Brown Fritillary. © R Goodison.

5

The landscape has historical and cultural significance and inspired figures such as John Ruskin, whose house and garden is in the west of the area at Brantwood, Beatrix Potter, who lived nearby, and Arthur Ransome, who wrote Swallows and Amazons and whose grave lies in Rusland Churchyard. That inspiration arose from the interaction between people and place, and the resultant landscape and societal structure. The community that developed in that landscape was strongly rooted in its use of the natural resources of the area and the skills and knowledge derived from that way of life. Working with wood, stone and water shaped both the landscape and the people who lived within it. Those skills and the culture surrounding them are as much a part of the heritage as the landscape and artefacts that they created.

Figure 6: Restored gate stoop. © T. Morris.

6

INTRODUCTION

Context

The Rusland Valley and Fells Heritage Partnership was set up in 2010 with a vision

to restore and protect the unique landscape of the Rusland Valley and Fells. This

has been a working landscape for centuries, and still is, with a rich history of human

influence shaping the landscape to produce its distinctive character. This scheme is

about engaging people with landscape in ways which result in positive outcomes for

both. Heritage Lottery funding was identified at an early stage of the scheme’s

development as being vital to its success and in October 2013 the Partnership was

awarded a grant to enable its further development under the Heritage Lottery Fund’s

Landscape Partnership Scheme.

An essential part of this process is to develop and record a thorough understanding

of the natural and cultural landscape of the scheme area as part of the required

Landscape Conservation Action Plan. This Landscape Character Assessment (LCA)

of the scheme area was commissioned by the Partnership in July 2014. Much of the

detailed technical assessment work has already been carried out previously and this

project builds on that work for the Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area. It is

intended that this local scale LCA successfully relates to existing assessments

carried out at the national and local scale, but also stands alone as a report which

helps engage the public as well as land owners and land managers in the

understanding and positive management of the Rusland Valley and Fells scheme

area.

Objectives

The objectives of the Landscape Character Assessment are:

to draw on existing studies to provide a technical assessment of the Rusland

Valley and Fells area which enhances our knowledge and understanding of

the landscape; why it looks like it does, how it functions, what are the forces

for change affecting it and how do we best manage the landscape to conserve

and enhance those features which make it different from other areas and give

it its unique ‘sense of place’.

to tell the story of the Rusland landscape which will help people understand

and develop their relationship with the area in which they live, work or visit

and develop, and hopefully enhance, their own personal ‘sense of place’.

7

Scheme Area

Figure 7: Location of the scheme area within Cumbria showing relationship to National Park, County

and District boundaries.

8

Figure 8: Boundary of the Scheme Area.

9

The boundary of the scheme area is shown in Figures 7 and 8. It lies entirely within

the administrative areas of Cumbria County Council, South Lakeland District Council

and is also part of the Lake District National Park. Both the County Council and the

District Council have their own policies covering environment and planning. Within

the National Park however, those planning functions which would normally be the

remit of a District Council are carried out by the National Park Authority. This means

that the responsibility for development management, that is both strategic planning

and the determination of planning applications, lies with the Lake District National

Park Authority (LDNPA). The LDNPA also has the responsibility for managing public

rights of way within the National Park. This would normally be a County Council

function, but is carried out on an agency basis. The LDNPA is also able to bring

additional resources to the management of the area in promoting initiatives and

partnerships, access to specialist advice, an enhanced access and recreation

function and potentially greater access to a variety of government grants for land

management with environmental outputs.

Figure 9: The High Furness Fells with high Central Lakes fells to the north. © C Barr.

The scheme area is a series of ridges running north-south with valleys between them

containing the rivers Rusland Pool and Crake and their tributaries. The area is

bounded by Windermere to the east, Coniston Water to the west, the transitional

landscapes leading to the Levens and Crake estuaries where they enter Morecambe

Bay to the south and the watershed of the low fells before the dramatic backdrop of

the high Central Lakes fells to the north. The east and west boundaries are easily

defined by the two lakes, but the north and south boundaries should be regarded as

a’ soft’ edge, more a zone than a line.

10

Figure 10: Looking towards Oxen Park with Morecambe Bay in the distance. © T. Morris

The rugged low fells of the area have panoramic views from high points and are

typically between 200-300m high in the north of the area and reduce in height further

south. The highest point is Top o’ Selside on Bethecar Moor at 333m. The fells are

often deeply incised with becks that are tributaries to the two main rivers, or that run

directly into Coniston Water and Windermere. The fells create a sense of enclosure

to the river valleys whose strong pattern of field boundary stone walls and hedges

and improved pasture fields create a managed appearance which contrasts sharply

with the rugged and much-wooded fellsides. Especially in the north of the area

conifer plantations and semi-natural woodlands contribute to the sense of enclosure

and intimacy in the valley bottoms.

Figure 11: Ickenthwaite and Rusland Church.© T. Morris.

11

The abundant woodlands were managed by coppicing to supply various woodland

industries including charcoal production, iron smelting, gunpowder manufacturing

and bobbin making for Lancashire’s once insatiable cotton industry. These industries

have had a marked influence on the visual and cultural landscape of the area and

the resultant habitats are still valuable for a range of declining species.

Figure 12: Charcoal Burners c1930s. © K. Airy.

Transport links are the network of rural roads which, as with the rest of the Lake

District, are influenced by the landform and run generally north-south. A notable

exception to this is the busy A590 trunk road running east-west at the southern edge

of the scheme area which impacts on tranquillity and landscape character within its

zone of influence.

EVOLUTION OF THE LANDSCAPE

Landscapes should never be regarded as static; they are in a continual state of

evolution as climatic, cultural and socio-economic influences continue to drive

change. This section of the landscape character assessment looks at those

elements which have shaped the landscape into what we see today and also

provides an overview of the forces which will continue to affect change as society’s

needs evolve and make new demands upon it.

12

Physical Influences

Figure 13: The geology of the Lake District.

13

Geology

The underlying geology is the basis of the landscape and for human interaction with

it. Norman Nicholson in his respected book ‘Portrait of the Lakes,’ first published in

1963, said “It is the rock which makes the land and it is the land which has made the

people”. The rocks have provided the raw materials for industries reliant on coal and

iron ore which directly or indirectly have had such an influence on Rusland. From

them have formed the soils which have provided the capacity for agriculture and for

the woodlands on which so much of the local economy and culture has historically

been based.

The rocks of the Lake District are of two kinds; sedimentary, rocks formed from

hugely compressed sediments formed in a water environment, and igneous, rocks

formed from molten materials of volcanic origin. Undisturbed, these rocks would

simply lie in layers with the most recent formations on top, but this is not the case

here. All sorts of major upheavals including buckling and fractures due to

compression, faults, landslides, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions have mixed

these layers and formed huge diversity within the landscape in such a small area.

These dramatic events in the Lake District’s history date back some 500 million

years and some of the oldest rocks on earth are to be found on the surface here.

It was Wordsworth who first compared the pattern of ridges and valleys of the Lake

District to the spokes of a wheel. Whether you decide the lakes, or the ridges are the

spokes it can certainly be said that the Rusland Valley and Fells, situated due south

of the hub in the central fells, and themselves running north-south, are an integral

part of this wheel.

The Rusland Valleys and Fells sit entirely within an area of relatively soft Silurian

Slates. These form the southern flanks of the more elevated central dome where the

fells are comprised of harder, more resistant rocks, mainly the Borrowdale Volcanic

group. Both these groups were laid down some 400-450 million years ago.

These slates and shales result in a gentler relief with the highest hills reaching less

than 400m above sea level. The mudstone of the Bannisdale Slates and gritstone of

the Coniston Grits, which make up the area, break down relatively easily and

produce a good depth of acidic soils that support the semi-natural woodland and

forestry found throughout the scheme area.

Figure 13 maps the geology of the Lake District with the Landscape Character Types

from the Lake District National Park LCA superimposed to illustrate the link between

the underlying geology and the present landscape.

14

Glaciation

The next great series of events to influence the landscape were the repeated

glaciations which have produced a textbook example of a glaciated landscape so

loved by teachers of physical geography.

Over the last two million years, the climate of Britain has seen huge variations in

temperature. About 1.5 million years ago a sudden fall in the temperature of the

whole of the northern hemisphere resulted in huge accumulations of snow that the

summer sun was unable to melt. Most of Britain would have been covered by a thick

ice sheet extending as far south as a line between the Severn and Thames valleys.

The ice over England came from two directions; from Scandinavia covering the

North-East and Yorkshire (but generally not getting past the Pennines), and from

Scotland, which is where the ice covering the Lake District came from. Only the tops

of the central fells broke the surface of this great sea of ice. Scratches caused by

rock debris carried in the ice can still be seen today in rocks on Scafell and Scafell

Pike at altitudes up to 760m.

Subsequent glacial periods, which have produced the familiar features we mostly

associate with our glacial past, were not on the massive scale of this inter-

continental ‘big-freeze’. As the temperatures fell, snow built up year on year and

glaciers began to form in each valley in the Lake District. As these hugely powerful

glaciers slowly advanced ‘downstream’, they were fed continually with more snow

and ice from above. They carried their load of rocks, plucked from the valley floors

and sides, with them and as they ground away at the underlying rocks, they sculpted

the landscape. They straightening valleys, turning their cross-section from V-shaped

to U-shaped, created hanging valleys and waterfalls as they steepened valley sides,

crags as they sheared off spurs and corries referred to locally as combes (coombes,

coombs), or coves at the head of the glacier.

Figure 14: Glacial valley: Coniston Water from Brockbarrow. © T. Morris

15

Most of these features were carved out during the last main glacial period, the

Devensian, some 12,000-50,000 years ago and are now occupied by the major lakes

including Windermere and Coniston Water. The big melt of the last of the four main

periods of glaciation, known collectively as the ice-age, was as recent as 10,000

years ago. It is generally acknowledged that our climate is in a temperate phase

which could be an inter-glacial period.

The mass of the ice, working with its load of abrasive material, had the power to

sculpt the land. But this was not the only force responsible for shaping the landscape

as a result of glaciation. When the ice melted it deposited huge amounts of material

pushed along as moraines, or suspended in the ice. This glacial till, mainly boulder

clay, often formed dams at the ends of valleys creating, or deepening lakes and was

also further transported by meltwater to form large spreads of fluvio-glacial sand and

gravel deposits.

Over time, soils began to form and these glacial deposits were slowly colonised by

pioneer plant species. This process eventually led to the development of the

woodlands and pastures of the Rusland Valley and Fells and the landscape and way

of life that is with us today.

Figure 15: Woodlands and pasture. © C Barr.

16

Human Influences

Figure 16: Human influences in the scheme area: location of places mentioned.

17

Following the retreat of the glaciers, between 11,000 – 13, 000 years ago, the first

people to enter the area around 10,000 years ago would have been hunting,

gathering and fishing the estuaries and living in caves or shelters around

Morecambe Bay. For 6,000 years this way of life continued, by which time the area

would have been covered in dense woodland.

Studies of pollen and plant remains that have been preserved within peat suggest

that woodland was present up to an altitude of 700m during the Mesolithic period (c

8,000 – 4,000 BC) and would have included species like oak, elm and alder which

are present today. Tree clearance associated with layers of charcoal from burning,

was occurring in this period which may relate to deliberate attempts by people to

clear woodland, possibly to aid hunting.

Around 6,000 years ago, in the Neolithic period (c 4,000 – 2,000 BC) the introduction

of domesticated animals and crops into Britain created a shift from hunting and

gathering to farming. This shift was gradual, but saw larger areas of tree clearance,

pottery, new types of stone tools and the construction of large monuments, like stone

circles. Evidence of clearance in this period in scheme area, comes from the finds of

stone axes and axe hammers in the Rusland and High Nibthwaite areas. It is likely

that the area was being cleared and cultivated by these early farmers.

Figure 17: Bethecar Moor Cairn. © K. Baverstock.

18

In the Bronze Age (c 2,000 – 700 BC) the more permanent clearance of hillsides to

make way for crops, animals and settlements continued. Evidence is provided in the

form of cairnfields, extensive areas of small mounds of stone, cleared to make way

for agriculture. The use of small circular burial mounds became widespread and this

is evident on Bethecar Moor within the scheme area. People managed the

landscape this way for centuries and settlements in favourable locations would have

been used until well after the Roman invasion.

There is no direct evidence for activity in the Rusland Valley and Fells in the Iron Age

(c 700 BC – to c AD 200). There was deterioration in the climate in the early part of

this period and pollen evidence suggests that a lot of the landscape returned to

woodland. However, in the later Iron Age (c 300 BC – c AD 70) clearance of

woodland greatly increased, possibly with expanding agriculture and population.

There is pollen evidence just outside the area at Blelham Bog which shows an

increase in deforestation around 300 BC.

Roman activity is characterised in the Lake District by military remains in the form of

forts, roads and temporary camps to protect the borders and supply routes (c AD

100 – AD 400). We have no evidence of Roman settlement in the scheme area,

apart from the find of a quern stone (a stone for grinding corn), near Nibthwaite.

Much of the native settlement in the Lake District would have continued as before

throughout the Roman occupation of Britain.

Following the collapse of Roman rule, the region broke up into small kingdoms.

During the seventh century AD, this area came under the influence of the Anglo-

Saxon kingdom of Northumbria. Pollen evidence from the central Lake District

indicates that there was woodland clearance in the fifth to tenth centuries. Little

visible evidence survives from the post-Roman period. This may be because it is

buried beneath present day villages.

Figure 18: Finsthwaite - a village clearing in the wood. © T.Morris.

19

Place name evidence can be used in the early medieval period to suggest

Scandinavian settlement across the area. Names ending in –thwaite, like

Satterthwaite, Ickenthwaite and Finsthwaite mean clearing and may point to the

woodland clearance in the pollen record. Other words with a Norse origin are beck

(stream), dale (valley), fell (hill or mountain) and gill (ravine). There is a find of an

early medieval mill stone, used to grind corn, from Graythwaite recorded in the Lake

District Historic Environment Record.

In 1066 the Normans invaded England, reaching Carlisle in 1092. The country was

divided amongst the Norman lords and religious communities were given land by the

lords or the King. Land in the Rusland Valley and Fells area would have been held

by the monks at Furness Abbey.

There was a rise in the number of farms, as well as the amount of enclosed land

during the late twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Place name evidence relates to the

exploitation of previously uncultivated land by the monks of Furness Abbey in the

fourteenth century. They created new ‘parks’ throughout the area, clearing areas of

woodland for sheep farming. Examples can be seen at Low, Middle and High Dale

Park, Oxen Park and Abbot Park. There was also a connection between these

clearances and charcoal production and iron smelting.

Figure 19: Abbot Park Farm. © T. Morris

Evidence of medieval charcoal burning in the Lake District comes from Ickenthwaite

within the Rusland Valley. Informal field surveys here located over 25 charcoal pits

and a medieval bloomery (iron smelting site) immediately adjacent to them. The

charcoal was produced in shallow pits rather than on platforms and subsequent

radiocarbon dating placed the pits in to the period 1280 – 1410 AD. Examination of

the charcoal revealed that it had been produced from mature timber, not coppiced

wood, which is also typical of charcoal from medieval bloomeries. It is therefore likely

that the charcoal was being produced for iron smelting at the adjacent bloomery.

20

The industrial use of the landscape continued in the post medieval period (1600 AD

onwards) with industries such as charcoal, potash, textile, iron and bobbin

production. The woodlands and streams provided the raw materials for these

important trades. Woodlands were actively managed and coppiced in order to

maintain a constant supply of wood to feed the demanding industries.

Figure 20: Stott Park Bobbin Mill. © C. Barr

Four of the five scheduled monuments in the

scheme area relate to the industrial heritage

and include Stott Park Bobbin Mill, Stony

Hazel Finery Forge, and the Nibthwaite and

Backbarrow Blast Furnaces. The Rusland

Tannery, Cunsey Blast Furnace and Forge,

numerous potash kilns and charcoal burning

platforms demonstrate the wealth of

archaeological remains relating to these

industries in this area. The location of these

sites is identified in Figure 22 below.

Figure 21: Potash Kiln. © V. Champion.

21

Figure 22: Designated archaeological sites within the scheme area.

22

During the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries the enclosure of common

land had a dramatic effect on the landscape. Many of the field boundaries you see

today reflect this phase of land reform.

From the late eighteenth century, the land was no longer seen just as a means for

making a living through agriculture or industry. People began to recognise its beauty

and its picturesque qualities inspired literature and art. As a result, the Lake District

began to grow in popularity.

In 1847 the Windermere railway line opened up the Lake District to the outside

world. John Ruskin, a great thinker and resident at Brantwood, within the scheme

area, fought against the coming of the railway. He believed that large numbers of

visitors could threaten the area’s tranquillity. Although not as busy as other parts of

the Lake District, tourism is still a significant influence on the character and use of

this area.

Figure 23: Brantwood. ©T. Morris

If ever, in autumn, a pensiveness falls upon us as the leaves drift by in their fading, may we not wisely look up in hope to their mighty monuments? Behold how fair, how far prolonged, in arch and aisle, the avenues of the valleys; the fringes of the hills! So stately,—so eternal; the joy of man, the comfort of all living creatures, the glory of the earth,—they are but the monuments of those poor leaves that flit faintly past us to die. Let them not pass, without our understanding their last counsel and example: that we also, careless of monument by the grave, may build it in the world—monument by which men may be taught to remember, not where we died, but where we lived.” John Ruskin (1903), The Leaf Monuments

23

Figure 24: Charcoal burners. © T. Saunders.

The Charcoal Burners

On the other side of the clearing they found the track again. The noise of the

chopping was now close at hand. A keen smell of smouldering wood tickled their

nostrils. Suddenly they came out of the trees again on the open hillside. There

were still plenty of larger trees, but the smaller ones and the undergrowth had

been cut away. There were long piles of branches cut all of a length and neatly

stacked, ready for the fire. There was one pile that made a complete circle with a

hole in the middle of it. Forty or fifty yards away there was a great mound of earth

with little jets of blue smoke spirting from it. A man with a spade was patting the

mound and putting a spadeful of earth wherever the smoke showed. Sometimes

he climbed on the mound itself to smother a jet of smoke near the top of it. As

soon as he closed one hole another jet of smoke would show itself somewhere

else. The noise of chopping had stopped just before the explorers came into the

open.

‘Look, look’, cried Titty.

At the edge of the wood, not far from the smoking mound, there was a hut shaped

like a round tent, but not made of canvas but of larch poles set up on end and all

sloping together so that the longer poles crossed each other at the top. On the

side of it nearest to the mound there was a doorway covered with a hanging flap

made of an old sack. The sack was pulled aside from within and a little, bent old

man, as wrinkled as a walnut and as brown, with long, bare arms covered with

muscles, came out. He blinked at the explorers in the sunlight.

Arthur Ransome (1930), Swallows and Amazons, London: Vintage

24

Biodiversity

Figure 25: The different types of woodland in the Scheme Area.

25

The Rusland Horizons scheme area supports a diverse range of habitats, including yew woods, broadleaved and mixed woodland and coniferous plantation, juniper scrub, upland heathland, valley and basin mires, man-made tarns, lake shore and riparian fen, unimproved pastures and meadows, flushes, swamps and lowland raised mosses. The area is a microcosm of the biodiversity found across the low fells of southern Cumbria. It reflects the ecological and social history of the area, its geology, soils and topography. The soils are largely acidic and range from those that are freely draining through to those that are poorly drained and peaty. However, the underlying marine sediments of Silurian age include lime-rich elements which in places give rise to moderately lime-rich spring-water and watercourses. The low, rolling topography of the landscape with irregular and often rocky hills, hollows and ridges has helped to increase the range of habitats.

Figure 26: Yew Barrow Wood SSSI and Rusland Moss SSSI. © T. Morris

The area supports habitats and species of both national and international importance. Ecological interest is signified through designation of several Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). These include: Yewbarrow Woods SSSI, which is also designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) for its extensive stands of yew; Dodgson Wood SSSI, a transition of woodland types from lakeshore alderwoods and ash-hazel stands through to sessile oak woodland and juniper on the higher ground; and Rusland Valley Mosses SSSI (including Rusland Moss National Nature Reserve) which is one of the few remaining raised mires in the country (figure 31 below). In addition there are 59 county wildlife sites noted for their woodland interest and 24 more supporting a variety of grassland, mire, bog, and open water habitats. Rusland supports some of the most extensive areas of ancient semi-natural woodland in England. There are also significant areas of conifer and some broadleaved and mixed plantations many of which are planted on ancient woodland sites (figure 25 above). In most of these woods there is a long history of coppicing as demonstrated by the presence of multi-stemmed oak, birch, hazel and many other trees. Such coppice management is of critical importance for the survival of much of the wildlife of these woodlands. The woodlands are predominantly of oak with ash, birch, sycamore, hazel, rowan and holly, although yew is not uncommon and can be

26

a particular and important feature of some woods. Previously coppiced ancient small-leaved lime is also an important feature. Thinner soiled areas on rocky outcrops and upper slopes tend to be dominated by oak and their field layer is characterised by grasses, tormentil and heath bedstraw where grazed by sheep, but bilberry with common cow wheat often predominates where grazing is lighter or absent. Mosses and liverworts are abundant on the woodland floor, on tree trunks and rocks. Some of these woodlands are quite open in character with a sparse shrub layer and often with much bracken. On deeper and richer soils the range of plants is much greater with hazel often forming a dense shrub layer and there is a richer field layer which can include bluebell, wood sorrel, yellow pimpernel, broad buckler fern, honeysuckle and many other woodland flowers. Along with oak, ash and sycamore can be typical of these areas too. Ash also occurs along steep gills along with bird cherry, wych elm, sweet woodruff, beech fern, perennial mercury and enchanter’s nightshade.

Figure 27: Hazel coppice at Sale Bank Wood. © E. Mills.

Wet ground on slopes supports alder, ash and willows. Here sedges, yellow pimpernel, meadowsweet and bugle are frequently present. Wet woodlands also occur in poorly drained basins, along upland and lowland water courses and other valley floor situations. Alder typically dominates mature stands but there can be a range of other trees (including aspen) and the field layer comprises plants such as hemlock water dropwort, meadowsweet, purple loosestrife and yellow flag iris. More recent and younger wet woodland is characterised by willows, often as one part of a succession from a pond or other wetland.

27

Glades on deeper soils in woodlands can be rich in flowers and these were the origin of many of our flower-rich hay meadows which are now a rare feature of the inbye of farms. Plants such as greater burnet, pignut, field scabious, lady’s mantle and yellow rattle are typical of these areas. The project aims to restore the flowers to a series of meadows in the area thus providing a link with the area’s woodlands. There is a characteristic assemblage of birds found in these woodlands including redstart, pied flycatcher, wood warbler (a priority species) and tree pipit, together with more lowland woodland bird assemblages such as the priority species marsh tit, spotted flycatcher and hawfinch. The extensive conifer plantations of Grizedale and other, privately owned, land tend to be relatively poor in flowers and shrubs, although mature and more open stands, especially where planted on ancient woodland sites are richer. However, they do support other wildlife including red squirrels, siskin and crossbills.

Figure 28: Hazel Dormouse: © P. Morris

The woodland of Rusland is home to a variety of other priority species which have declined nationally and are under threat. A major factor in this decline is the reduction in active woodland management. The hazel dormouse is present here in one of its northernmost outposts in the UK. It is a shy mammal that is dependent on the actively coppiced woodland to create a dense shrub layer which provides it with ample food and cover. The species can also suffer when populations become isolated in a landscape. Hedgerows, therefore, provide essential corridors between woodlands. The damper flushed areas within woodlands on the shores of Coniston Water support the scarce touch-me-not balsam which is the food plant of the Netted Carpet moth. The balsam is an annual plant that requires some light ground disturbance, ideally by cattle, to enable it to germinate, grow and spread. Red

28

squirrels have been in rapid decline across the UK, partly due to disease and partly to competition from the non-native grey squirrel. Rusland woodlands and Grizedale Forest hold significant surviving populations of red squirrels.

Figure 29: Red Squirrel. © V. Corbett.

Juniper scrub occurs on the upper edge of a number of the valley side woodlands. In places, such as Bethecar Moor and Yewbarrow it spills out onto the higher plateaux areas where it links with upland habitats. Here there is a rolling landscape of wet and dry upland heathland with heather, bell heather and cross-leaved heath in a mosaic with other habitats including bracken, acid grassland and valley mires, flushes and tarns. The mires typically include a range of acid-loving plants such as bog mosses, bog myrtle, bog asphodel and common cotton- grass but in places where lime-rich water comes to the surface there is a lime-loving flora present including rusty hook-moss, few-flowered spike-rush and tawny sedge. Similar habitats are also found associated with rides and deer lawns in Grizedale Forest. Flushes are also present in these areas and in places support primroses which are usually associated with shady banks (where they also occur here) and woodland. In recent years populations of the Duke of Burgundy butterfly which feeds on primrose have been discovered in a habitat unique for this species in Britain. It is in serious decline. The species’ isolated colonies in south Cumbria are at the northern edge of its range in the UK. The High Brown Fritillary which is also associated with woodland clearings and limestone grassland, also occurs in these moorland areas where it feeds on violets growing amongst bracken. Southern Cumbria is now considered to be the UK stronghold for this species which has been under rapid decline for a number of years. As both butterflies can also occur in actively coppiced woodland elsewhere in England there is a neat link across the habitats in the landscape.

29

Figure 30: High Brown Fritillary. © R Goodison

The upland tarns of the area have mostly been dammed but support an often diverse range of plants including white water lily, water lobelia, shoreweed, several stonewort species and, more rarely, lesser water plantain. The rare notable oxbow diving beetle has also been recorded in the area. The poorly drained ground of the valley floor has nationally important lowland raised mires including Rusland Moss and Ireland Moss. At Rusland, past peat winning has resulted in a drying of much of the peat surface and the area has been colonised by trees and shrubs including areas of pine. However, some of the original bog vegetation remains including bog mosses, bog rosemary, hare’s tail cotton-grass and white beak sedge. The priority Large Heath butterfly which feeds on cotton-grass occurs here and the project hopes to engage local volunteers to monitor its populations. Marshy fields and swamps occur around these bogs and along the wetter parts of the valley bottom fields. These typically include rushes, purple moor-grass and sedges and can be species rich with plants such as wild angelica, ragged robin and greater bird’s-foot trefoil.

30

Figure 31: Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Special Areas of Conservation within the Scheme Area.

31

Landscape Change

As we have seen, the landscape is ever changing. Some of the forces which result in

this change, such as climate change, are at a global scale. Other forces are very

localised, as through the democratic process, or as landowners and land managers,

we have the opportunity to make decisions which have direct local effects; for

example, converting a barn, or felling some trees. So over some changes we have

short term, direct control and others we can only hope to influence long term trends

by adapting our behaviour and persuading or incentivising others to do the same.

Some of the potential future changes in the landscape of the Rusland Valley and

Fells are summarised here and also described in the individual Areas of Distinctive

Character below:

Climate change

The effects of climate change are clearly long-term, but already evident, and we

need to consider land management policies and practices in order to contribute to

counteracting them. A warming climate with more extreme weather events carries

the potential for physical damage to the condition of the landscape with flooding,

erosion and landslips all evident elsewhere in the Lake District. High run-off rates

carry sediments downstream and damage fish spawning beds, higher temperatures

cause species to either migrate to higher altitudes, or disappear altogether and

others from elsewhere to establish, flash floods act as vectors for spreading alien

plant species through catchments.

Developmental change

The intensely rural character of the area is highly sensitive to inappropriate

development. Its attractive environment and proximity to the A590 trunk road and

other transport links results in inevitable pressure for additional housing. Tourism

and the growth of holiday home ownership also contribute to this and it can also lead

to a perceived need to ‘improve’ the rural road network which can have an

urbanising effect. There is also a demand for increased recreational opportunities

throughout most of the Lake District, but the Rusland Valley and Fells will always

attract the visitor seeking quieter pursuits away from the honeypots. Grizedale

Forest is the obvious exception to this, however, due to the dense cover the forest

provides it has a huge capacity to absorb visitors without harming landscape

character. The local planning authority clearly has an important role to play in striking

the right balance in achieving thriving communities and conserving the landscape, as

do local people in contributing to this process. The fact that the area lies within the

protected landscape of the Lake District National Park limits, but does not remove

the likelihood of developments such as wind turbines and other renewable energy

infrastructure, telecoms masts, power distribution and transport infrastructure of an

inappropriate scale and design being located in the area.

32

Figure 32: Families enjoying the visitor centre at Grizedale Forest. © Crown Copyright, courtesy of the Forestry Commission.

Land management change

The principal drivers in managing the land of the Rusland Valley and Fells area are

commercial forestry mixed with recreation in the north of the area and farming,

mainly in the form of beef and sheep enterprises on the improved and semi-

improved pastures of the valleys with rough grazing on the fells. These land uses are

vulnerable to changes in the economic viability of farming and forestry. Presently

agri-environment schemes such as Entry Level and, in particular, Higher Level

Stewardship Schemes and the recently closed English Woodland Grant Scheme run

by the Forestry Commission are crucial in maintaining the condition of the farmed

and wooded landscape, but any reduction in these payments could threaten

distinctive landscape features such as stone walls and hedges which might be

replaced with post and wire fencing for example. Increased farm holding size may

result in pressure for large scale agricultural buildings, or breaking up farms into

smaller units may result in a proliferation of “hobby” farms with an abundance of

small buildings for horse shelter that this can bring. Farming and forestry activity that

is supported through agri-environmental schemes appears to provide the best way of

ensuring management of the landscape with appropriate environmental outputs if the

condition of the landscape is to be maintained and the symptoms of neglect such as

grazed and unmanaged woodlands, unmanaged heather, dilapidated walls and

barns and the loss of designed landscapes are to be avoided.

33

Figure 33: Carefully maintained dry stone walls and outbuildings at Abbot Park Farm and campsite. © C. Barr.

Broader political issues and policy changes

National planning policy influences the character of the landscape by affecting

change to development management locally. Currently, national, regional and local

planning policy is formulated on a character-based approach to landscape planning

which cascades down from the European Landscape Convention. The Landscape

Character Assessment with Guidelines for the Lake District National Park was

adopted as a Supplementary Planning Document in 2011 and guides policy and

decision making by the local planning authority. The delivery of agri-environment

schemes is the responsibility of Defra through Natural England. They are also

committed to using a character based approach to targeting resources. It is more

likely therefore that adverse change to landscape character will come through

incremental small scale changes rather than any planned change to existing

planning policy.

Invasive alien plants, pests and diseases

The spread of non-native plants into balanced eco-systems is considered to be one

of the most serious threats to biodiversity in the UK. They also have potential

adverse effects on the visual landscape and in some cases for causing physical

damage to riverbanks and structures. There are a number of species which threaten

native water plants with the most serious land based threats being Japanese

knotweed and Himalayan balsam. Prompt and effective control is essential to

34

prevent any populations spreading, but currently these species are not a major

problem in the study area. As woodlands are such an important feature which

contribute to landscape character, cultural identity and economic viability of the

Rusland Valley, any threat to their wellbeing must be taken seriously and acted

upon. Ash dieback (Chalara fraxinea) is an imminent threat to the important ash

population of the area, likely to have the effect of killing some ash trees and severely

weakening others, causing a loss of biodiversity as well as some public safety

issues. Phytophthora austrocedrus, a disease of juniper has recently been

identified in the project area and will have a serious impact on this Biodiversity Action

Plan species. Phytophthora ramorum has also been identified in the area, and has

resulted in sanitation felling of larch; this may result in the loss of almost all stands of

larch within ten years. There are many other pests and diseases which threaten tree

and woodland populations and some will have the potential for landscape scale

effects like the diseases referred to above.

Figure 34: Ancient ash pollard near Penny Bridge. Now under threat from Chalara fraxinea. © V. Champion.

Recommendations for landscape management

Guidelines for landscape management should stem from a combination of the

assessment of landscape character and sensitivity and also consider forces for

change. These are described below for each Area of Distinctive Character within the

scheme area.

35

LANDSCAPE CHARACTER

Overview

Landscape is not just the view. It's about the relationship between people and place.

The Rusland Valley and Fells are important because they have:

Economic value, providing the setting for economic activity like farming,

forestry and tourism.

Social and community value, as an important part of people's lives,

contributing to a sense of identity and well-being, and bringing enjoyment and

inspiration to locals and visitors alike.

Environmental value, as a home for wildlife and a cultural record of society's

use for the land.

So it is essential that we understand the character of the landscape and Landscape

Character Assessments provide a tool for identifying features that give a locality its

'sense of place' and pinpoint what makes it different from neighbouring areas. It

provides a framework for describing an area in a systematic, value-free way and

helps land managers ensure that change can respect and enhance local character. It

also helps people develop a deeper understanding of the landscape in which they

live or visit creating interest, enjoyment and a sense of place.

Method

Landscape Character Assessments are carried out at different scales depending on

their intended purpose. At a national scale, Natural England has mapped the whole

of England into 159 National Character Areas (NCA’s) with broad descriptions and

management guidelines for each.

At a more local scale a partnership of the Lake District National Park Authority

(LDNPA), The National Trust, Natural England and Friends of the Lake District

commissioned Chris Blandford Associates to produce a Landscape Character

Assessment with Guidelines for the Lake District National Park. This document was

adopted by the LDNPA as a Supplementary Planning Document in 2011 and looks

at the area in greater detail.

In addition Cumbria County Council has produced a county scale LCA, but, to avoid

duplication, this excludes the National Park.

36

The methodology for this document does not repeat the detailed work already

presented in the LDNPA assessment, as this would be pointless and confusing.

Additional site based investigations have, however, been carried out to verify this

work within the context of the study area. The LDNPA document examines the

landscape down to the scale of the individual landholding where necessary and

maps the landscape character areas (referred to as Areas of Distinctive Character)

at a scale of 1:50,000 which we consider sufficient detail for the purposes of this

study.

This Rusland Valley and Fells Landscape Character Assessment delivers its

objectives by setting the context in the form of a narrative which promotes a broad

understanding of how and why the scheme area landscape looks the way it does

and then presents the revised, relevant sections from the LDNPA document which

are the detailed technical assessment work.

37

The Landscape Character Areas

Figure 35: Landscape Character Types and Areas of Distinctive Character within the scheme area.

38

Natural England’s National Character Areas work includes the scheme area within

NCA Profile 19 Cumbria Low Fells. The NCA’s are a very useful description of the

landscape which provides the context for more local scale assessments.

A full description of the LCA Profile can be seen in at:

http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/publications/nca/south_cumbria_low_fells.aspx

The LDNPA assessment adopts a thorough methodology describing both Landscape

Character Types and where applicable Sub-Types, and also at the more local scale

Areas of Distinctive Character. Landscape Character Types are generic units of

landscape with a distinct and recognisable pattern of elements that occur

consistently throughout the type. Areas of Distinctive Character are more localised

geographical units with distinctive characteristics. This integrated approach leads to

a greater understanding of the context and detail of the assessment.

Figure 35 shows both Landscape Character Types (LCT’s) and Areas of Distinctive

Character (ADC’s) that are present within the scheme area.

Landscape Character Types

The Rusland Valley and Fells study area is predominantly made up of two LCT’s:

Landscape Character Type K - Low Fell

Landscape Character Type M - Lowland Valley

These Landscape Character Types describe the landscape of the south-east corner

of the Lake District National Park of which the Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area

is the central section. They describe a landscape of low, but rugged fells (LCT K)

dissected by a number of lowland valleys (LCT M) including the Rusland Valley. The

north-south orientated ridges slope generally southwards from the high central fells

towards the rivers Levens, Rusland Pool and Crake estuaries running into

Morecambe Bay. From open pasture on the tops of these ridges there are dramatic

long distance views north to the central fells and south to Morecambe Bay.

In High Furness there is an irregular and romantic mixture of high craggy hills, deep glens, and verdant valleys, interspersed with brooks, rivers and lakes. Edward Baines, 1824

39

Figure 36: View from Rusland Heights. ©. T. Morris.

Much of the fell land is densely wooded with semi-natural woodland and coniferous

plantations; the scheme area is one of the most densely wooded areas in England.

On the lower fells and in the valleys, there is a patchwork of pasture and woodland

and a more intimate character as the network of twisting minor roads, enough to

sometimes get a relative local lost, wind their way through the valley, linking small

settlements and farms. Stone walls and hedges reinforce the sense of enclosure.

Figure 37: Winding roads to Rusland Church. © C. Barr.

40

Figure 38: Breakdown of LCT K into subtypes.

41

Figure 39: Breakdown of LCT M into subtypes.

42

Full descriptions of these Landscape Character Types and adjacent LCT’s including

Guidelines can be found in the Landscape Character Assessment with Guidelines for

the Lake District National Park on the LDNPA website at:

http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/caringfor/policies/lca

Areas of Distinctive Character

There are seven Areas of Distinctive Character wholly or partly within the scheme

area:

49 – Lower Windermere

55 – Coniston Water

56 – Grizedale and Satterthwaite

58 – Dale Park

63 – Rusland and Crake Valley

64 – Haverthwaite and Levens Estuary

65 – Backbarrow and Bigland

These areas are identified by unifying landscape characteristics which make an area

sufficiently different from its surroundings to merit being classified as a separate unit

and describe the Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area in great detail. In this

assessment they have been edited to exclude references to places and features

which are not relevant to the Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area, but where a

feature outside may influence landscape character within the scheme area it is

included. An example might be views of the villa style houses and designed

landscape of the east shore of Windermere (outside) from the west shore (inside).

Unedited descriptions of these ADC’s can be found in the Landscape Character

Assessment with Guidelines for the Lake District National Park on the LDNPA

website at: http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/caringfor/policies/lca

An introduction to the assessment methodology and the detailed descriptions of the

Areas of Distinctive Character are reproduced below:

Assessment Methodology

Character Assessment

For each Area of Distinctive Character, its boundaries are mapped and its character

described (and illustrated where appropriate) under the following headings:

Location – a short paragraph detailing location of the Area of Distinctive

Character in relation to the National Park and key landscape features;

43

Relevant Landscape Character Types – a bullet point list of the relevant

Landscape Character Type(s) that underlie the Area of Distinctive Character;

Distinctive Characteristics – a bullet point list of the main distinctive visible and

non-visible experiential characteristics of the landscape that contribute to the

area’s distinctive character; and

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place - a summary description of the main

locally distinctive characteristics and features that give the area its unique sense

of place.

Landscape Evaluation

Each Area of Distinctive Character is evaluated as follows.

Landscape Sensitivities – a bullet point list of the key positive attributes that

are judged to be inherently sensitive; the inherent character of the Area of

Distinctive Character would be changed if these attributes were lost or altered.

Forces for Change – a bullet point list of forces for change specific to each Area

of Distinctive Character.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

The guidelines comprise a bullet point list of specific guidelines for managing

landscape change for each Area of Distinctive Character.

44

AREA 49: LOWER WINDERMERE

45

Figure 42: Yachts on Windermere. © J. Morris.

Figure 40: Lakeside. © C. Barr.

Figure 41: Windermere East Shore. © D. Dixon.

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

This is the south basin of Windermere and includes the eastern section of the

scheme area and the influence of views to the east shore across the lake.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Low Fell (K); and

Lowland Valley (M).

Distinctive Characteristics

An abundance of woodland industrial

archaeological remains, notably

Cunsey Bloomery Forge;

Southern half of Windermere Lake,

with its extensive ancient semi-natural

woodland right down to the lake

shores, punctuated by scattered large

residences such as Silverholme and

High Stott Park House, provides a

strong sense of enclosure;

Set back from the immediate lakeshore

to the east and west on rising ground,

wooded and open rocky outcrops and

knolls;

Views of eastern shore dominated by

large private houses, villas and hotels,

with nationally important Arts and

Crafts buildings. Many houses have

their own boathouses and jetties, as

well as gardens / grounds laid out by

eminent designers, some with exotic

planting and parkland.

Colourful steamers and yachts

punctuate views across the lake;

Predominantly a tranquil valley away

from the Lakeside Pier and A590 and

A592 due to the perceived naturalness

of the landscape, and the relative

absence of dwellings and settlements.

46

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

The shorelines of Lake Windermere have a soft and predominantly wooded and

parkland character, and the lake narrows, moving southwards through the

landscape. An almost continuous swathe of predominantly broadleaved woodland

cloaks the shore, with patches of open farmland, parkland or grassland overlooked

by farmsteads or large houses such as Silverholme, built in 1820 by John Job

Rawlinson of Low Graythwaite Hall. The woodland shelters an abundance of

industrial archaeology remains such as charcoal burning platforms, bark peelers

cottages, potash kilns and forges. At the very northerly boundary of the ADC, lies

Cunsey bloomer forge – one of the few remaining examples of its type in Britian.

Dating from c. 1618 it was first used to smelt iron and later, following the construction

of a blast furnace at Cunsey in 1715, as a refinery forge. The woodland has a

dense, green understorey, which often comes alive in spring with swathes of

bluebells, and contributes subtle textures and seasonal colour changes. This results

in a relatively strong sense of enclosure and denotes an intimate-scale landscape,

with occasional glimpse views across Lake Windermere to the east.

Figure 43: Rusland oak and bluebell woods. © T. Morris.

‘Northward, again, o’er noble mountains stray To yon projecting cape, which forms a bay; Stretching his foliag’d arm, t’embrace the fair Whose constant pressures he delights to bear, Yet, to his aged parent, fondly clings, Whilst Cunsey’s beck the double compact sings; For ever flowing, and for ever join’d, The lashing emblems of a grateful mind. Joseph Palme (1798). A description of the view from Rowlinson’s Nab, Windermere.

47

The eastern shore is speckled with large, predominantly private, houses (including a

number of significant Arts and Crafts houses) with extensive gardens and parkland

planting, facing the lake, and lining the relatively busy main road (which introduces

noise and visual intrusion). Towards the south of the lake, the surrounding Low Fells

provide a strong sense of enclosure, and contribute to the small-scale and relatively

intimate landscape pattern.

The area has a predominantly strong sense of tranquillity on the western shores of

the lake. The tranquillity is due to the perceived naturalness of the landscape and

the relative absence of dwellings and settlements.

The hall of Graythwaite Estate, one of the largest private estates in the scheme area,

is sited just inside this ADC. The Graythwaite Hall gardens are a seasonal visitor

attraction and were the first commission for Thomas Hayton Mawson (1861 – 1993)

a landscape architect who went on to design other gardens in Cumbria such as

Langdale Chase, Brockhole and Holker Hall before going on to win a competition,

1908, to lay out the Peace Palace gardens at The Hague.

Figure 44: Graythwaite Hall gardens. © K. Baverstock.

48

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Woodland historic environment sensitive to changes in management;

Parkland along the lakeshore, which contributes to recognisable sense of place;

Extensive areas of semi-natural woodland sensitive to changes in management;

Open views across Lake Windermere, which are vulnerable to interruption by tall

vertical or large-scale developments;

Strong sense of enclosure provided by woodland;

Strong sense of tranquillity at distance from the A590 and A592;

Small-scale and intimate landscape pattern, which is vulnerable to the

introduction of large-scale elements, or loss of existing landscape features;

Water quality, mires and lake edges; and

Existing character of the settlements sensitive to new or large scale development

which does not reflect local vernacular and Victorian character.

Forces for Change

Climate change changing the temperature of the lakes, increasing

eutrophication;

Redevelopment and enlargement of houses, boathouses and jetties on the

lakeshores;

Expansion of leisure development at Lakeside, Newby Bridge and Fell Foot in

quieter areas of the Lake;

Continued pressure for access to water for recreational pursuits creating

pollution and loss of tranquillity;

Communication developments leading to increased visual clutter from mobile

phone and radio masts.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

Target agri-environment scheme support for heathland, small woods, parkland,

and boundary features which strengthen the landscape pattern within this

landscape type;

Encourage the creation of new native woodland at the edges of existing

unsympathetic conifer plantations;

49

Encourage the creation of new woodland along appropriate riverbanks, which

complements existing woodland pattern;

Encourage sustainable management of broadleaved woodland, maintaining

continuous cover.

Ecological Character

Restore water quality, mires and lake edge habitats.

Cultural and Historic Character

Encourage the creation of new native woodland to infill between existing woods

where this would be of landscape or wildlife benefit;

Control deer browsing and grazing pressures;

Expand and enhance semi natural habitats between designated sites to improve

the existing ecological network and increase robustness to climate change;

Conserve and enhance exotic and parkland planting along the lakeshore, which

contributes to recognisable sense of place;

Conserve woodland archaeology;

Conserve and enhance distinctive features of settlements such as decorative

white barge boarding and high quality slate detailing; and

Ensure lakeside developments such as boathouses, jetties etc reflect local

vernacular styles and scale.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Conserve the rural character of the existing road network;

Protect uncluttered skylines and key views from tall, vertical and large-scale

developments that may erode the undeveloped character of the area.

Maintain open views across Lake Windermere;

Conserve and enhance strong sense of enclosure provided by broadleaved

semi-natural woodland;

Maintain relatively strong sense of tranquillity at distance from the A590 and

A592 road corridors;

Mitigate landscape impact of any new communications infrastructure;

Encourage restoration of designed grounds and parkland associated with

lakeside houses, including succession planting of trees; and

Retain small-scale and intimate landscape pattern.

50

AREA 55: CONISTON WATER

51

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

This Area of Distinctive Character includes the north-west section of the scheme

area where the lake influences landscape character.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Lowland Valley (M); and

Low Fells (K).

Distinctive Characteristics

Strong sense of enclosure provided by

surrounding Low Fells (which are densely

wooded along the eastern shore);

Sense of tranquillity, enclosure and

intimacy on the lake, with spectacular

views to dramatic surrounding fells.

Boats play an important part in the

composition of the landscape;

Generally muted landscape with a

coherent colour composition of greens,

greys and blues with extensive

broadleaved woodlands contributing

seasonal colour;

Views across the lake to Coniston, a large

village with its industrial history of slate

quarrying, copper mining, railway and

tourism strongly reflected in its grey and

green slate houses, terraces, hotels and

public buildings, giving a unified

appearance;

View of Coniston Hall standing proudly on

the lake shore;

Archaeological woodland industry sites;

Designed estate landscape associated

with the 18th and 19th century Monk

Coniston Estate at the northern end of the

lake including the wider landscape;

Historic and cultural links with Ruskin (whose house and garden at Brantwood,

Figure 45: Coniston Launch © LDNP

Figure 46: Steam Yacht Gondola © LDNP

52

overlooks the Lake) and Arthur Ransome; and

Predominantly a tranquil area due to the openness and perceived naturalness of

the valley and the associated Coniston Water.

Figure 47: Coniston Water from Bethecar Moor, above Dodgson Wood. © T Morris

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

Despite the size of Coniston Water, the low fells beyond the eastern and western

shores give it a sense of intimacy and enclosure. The extensive ancient semi-

natural deciduous woodlands on the fellsides enhance the softness of the landform.

The most distinctive vessel on the lake is the steam yacht ’Gondola‘, an elegant

reminder of Victorian tourism of the Furness railway era. However, the speed limit

means that the majority of craft on the lake are sailing boats.

Figure 48: Rigg Wood and Bethecar Moor. © T. Morris.

53

The slowly gliding sails contribute to a strong sense of tranquillity, and also add

splashes of white and bright colour. The distinctive quality of light in the area often

gives a muted appearance to Coniston’s landscape colours of greys, greens and

blues.

Archaeological surveys in the woodlands have revealed a number of remains such

as charcoal burning platforms, bark peelers cottages, potash kilns and forges.

Coniston has a rich cultural as well as industrial history, and has inspired a wide

range of people and activities. John Ruskin, artist, thinker and art critic lived at

Brantwood, on the eastern shore of the lake, from 1871 until 1900, and his house

and restored garden is now open to the public. Before Ruskin, Brantwood had been

home to other eminent Victorian academics and reformers: wood engraver, illustrator

and social reformer William James Linton and his controversial writer wife, Eliza

Lynn Linton, then Gerald Massey, poet and Egyptologist. When Ruskin was in

residence, Brantwood was frequently visited by William Gershom Collingwood,

painter and archaeologist who lived nearby at Lanehead.

Figure 49: Peel Island. © LDNP

Coniston Water, its surrounding fells, and –perhaps most importantly- Peel Island

with its secret harbour, inspired Arthur Ransome to write his ’Swallows and

Amazons‘ stories, and many of the locations in the books can be found around

Coniston, a notable section on charcoal burning is reproduced on page 23. Arthur

Ransome lived at the southern end of Coniston Water for many years, and sailed on

54

the lake. In 1967 Donald Campbell broke the world water-speed record on Coniston

Water in Bluebird K7, but crashed and died in the attempt. The wreck of Bluebird

has recently been lifted from the lake. The area has a strong sense of tranquillity

due to the openness and perceived naturalness of the valley and the associated

Coniston Water.

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Sense of enclosure, intimacy and tranquillity in proximity to the lakeshore;

Designed estate landscape associated with Monk Coniston Estate and

Brantwood;

Ancient semi-natural woodlands on the fellsides, which contribute to a sense of

enclosure;

Vernacular buildings of slate or white washed stone;

Water within the Lake, which is vulnerable to diffuse and point source pollution;

and

Extensive views to surrounding high fells.

Forces for Change

Subsidy and grant reductions leading to the loss and disrepair of landscape

features such as stone walls, hedge banks and pollards;

Increased farm sizes increases demand for new large agricultural buildings and

associated development;

Reduced grazing activity may result in the spread of bracken on the Low Fell;

Fluctuations in forestry practices due to the changing nature and economics of

forestry;

Climate change increasing the presence of alien species in valley streams;

Climate change increasing eutrophication and putting pressure on niche fish species such as Artic Char;

In a fine morning there is not a more pleasant rural ride and then the beauties of the lake are seen to the most advantage. In the afternoon if the sun shine much of the effect is lost by the change of light and those who visit this lake from the north lose all the charms arising from the view of mountains which rise in grandeur on the eye and swell upon the imagination as they are approached. Thomas West (1805). The Antiquities of Furness.

55

Recreational developments and associated pressures such as car parking and transport eroding the network of minor roads and tracks.

Increased tourism and growth in holiday development and second homes leading to land originally under pasture or part of large estates being sold for development;

Development pressures leading to a loss of vernacular buildings and reduction in use of local building materials; and

Communication developments may lead to increased visual clutter from mobile phone masts and inappropriately designed transport schemes.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

Conserve and enhance mature deciduous ancient semi-natural woodlands on

the fellsides; and

Protect water within the Lake from point source and diffuse pollution.

Ecological Character

No guidelines recommended.

Cultural and Historic Character

Conserve and restore the designed estate landscape associated with Monk

Coniston Estate and Brantwood;

Conserve and restore historic features including boundary features, especially

slate flag walls (shard fences);

Conserve and enhance vernacular buildings of slate or white washed stone

including their locally distinctive features such as open galleries and high round

chimneys; and

Encourage new development where deemed appropriate which is appropriately

designed and sited and respects or strengthens local character.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Retain sense of enclosure, intimacy and tranquillity in proximity to the lakeshore;

and

Protect views from tall vertical or large-scale developments.

56

AREA 56: GRIZEDALE AND SATTERTHWAITE

57

Figure 51: Grizedale Forest © T. Morris.

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

Grizedale and Satterthwaite ADC is a large part of the north and central part of the

scheme area.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Low Fells (K); and

Lowland Valley (M).

Distinctive Characteristics

Vast, dense expanse of mostly

coniferous woodland underlain by a

generally hummocky and craggy

topography with broadleaved woodland

remaining in places;

Broadleaved woodland contains

archaeological remains notably Stony

Hazel Finery Forge, a scheduled

ancient monument;

Strong sense of enclosure and

remoteness within the Forest, despite

the accessibility of the landscape,

which is criss-crossed by a network of

pedestrian and cycle trails;

Narrow course of Grizedale Beck runs

through a clearing at the centre of the

woodland. Its patchwork of lush

pasture fields, divided by stone walls

and hedges, provides contrast to the

surrounding woodland;

Different shades of green dominate the

visual composition of this landscape;

Unusual environmental art and

sculptures within the forest;

Forest is dominant landscape feature

as the backdrop within views from

adjacent Coniston Water and

Windermere Lake;

Clear highest view point in forest Carron Crag poking up through trees;

Figure 50: Grizedale visitor centre © Crown Copyright. Forestry Commission.

Figure 52: Grizedale Sculpture. © LDNP.

58

Popular area for recreation; and

Predominantly very tranquil landscape associated with the dense woodland and

relative absence of settlements, dwellings and major roads.

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

One of the most distinctive features of the Grizedale and Satterthwaite area is the

scale of the plantation forestry of the Grizedale Forest, which can only really be

appreciated from elevated viewpoints outside and within the forest, such as Carron

Crag. From these viewpoints, the dense coniferous forest appears as a swathe of

dark green, laid over the low fells. The topography below the forest is uneven, and

contains many rocky outcrops.

Grizedale Forest is a popular recreation area, and contains a dense network of

footpaths, bridleways, and forest tracks which are used for mountain bike trails.

There is also a ‘go-ape’ course and various sculpture trails and visitor centres. Yet,

despite the numbers of visitors, the area still feels remote and detached. This is

largely due to the dense tree cover, which blocks views out, and creates a strong

sense of enclosure.

The valley of the Grizedale beck runs north-south through the centre of the forest.

The open valley bottom, with its small pastoral fields contrasts strongly with the

surrounding forest in terms of colour, texture and openness, and consequently has a

very different feel.

Within the forest are many examples of sculptures and environmental art. Some are

in natural materials, others more artificial. Some large works form focal points in the

forest, whilst smaller ones can easily be missed. There are also musical sculptures,

and the sounds of xylophones and woodblocks echo through the valley. The

sculptures are beautiful as features in themselves, and also add an element of

surprise to the forest landscape, making it a distinctive place.

Grizedale Forest is on elevated land between lakes Windermere and Coniston, and

consequently forms the backdrop in views from these lakes. The dark colour of the

coniferous forest means that it is a dominant feature within these views. The area

has a predominantly very strong sense of tranquillity due to the presence of the large

dense woodland that covers the majority of the area. There is also a relative

absence of settlements, dwellings and major roads and therefore minimal sources of

artificial noise.

The Grizedale estate was taken up by the Forestry Commission in 1936. Grizedale

New Hall, which stood where The Yan, education centre is now sited, was

requisitioned by the War Office as a Prisoner of War camp in 1939. Known officially

as No 1 POW Camp (Officers) and locally as ‘U-boat Hotel’ and ‘Hush Hush Hall’, it

59

held crewmen captured from German submarines and Luftwaffe airmen. In 1940,

0ne of these prisoners, Oberleutnant (Flying Officer) Franz von Werra, managed to

escape during an exercise walk outside the prison grounds. He survived out on the

moor for six days before being recaptured. He went on to attempt several more

escapes from other camps and would have made it back to Germany had he, and

the plane he was flying, not gone missing over the sea above Holland. His exploits

became the subject of a book called ‘The One That Got Away’ and were turned into

a film in 1957, part of this was shot on location in Grizedale.

Figure 53: Looking North across Force Forge and Grizedale Forest. © T. Morris.

Like elsewhere in the scheme area, the semi ancient, broadleaved woodland

contains numerous historic environment record sites linked to woodland industries.

In the south of the ADC is an old bobbin mill at Force Forge, now a house, and the

finery forge at Stony Hazel, a scheduled ancient monument.

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Strong sense of enclosure and remoteness within the Forest;

Patchwork of lush pasture fields along Grizedale Beck, divided by stonewalls

and hedges, which are vulnerable to changes in forest management or

agricultural practices;

60

Sense of openness within Grizedale Beck Valley corridor; and

Sculptures and environmental art within the forest, that are distinctive landscape

features.

Forces for Change

Pressure on sensitive habitats from increasing accessibility;

Fluctuations in forestry practices due to the changing nature and economics of

forestry;

Increased pressure for new residential developments leading to a loss of

vernacular buildings and use of local building materials;

Increased tourism and a growth in holiday developments and second homes,

leading to land originally under pasture or part of large estates being sold for

development;

Communication developments leading to increased visual clutter from mobile

phone masts and inappropriately designed transport schemes; and

Increased traffic on small roads and car park development changing the

character of minor roads and tracks;

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

Restore watercourses, pulling back conifer stands from banks.

Ecological Character

No guidelines recommended.

Cultural and Historic Character

Conserve and enhance patchwork of lush pasture fields, divided by stonewalls

and hedges;

Maintain the distinctive landscape features of sculptures and environmental art

within the forest; and

Restore ancient woodland sites where recent conifer plantations have affected

them.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Retain strong sense of enclosure and remoteness within the Forest; and

Retain sense of openness within Grizedale Beck Valley corridor.

61

AREA 58: DALE PARK

62

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

Dale Park Area of Distinctive Character forms the greater part of the east side of the

Rusland Valley and Fells scheme area and is situated towards the south of the Lake

District National Park, to the east of Grizedale Forest, south of Esthwaite Water and

west of Lake Windermere.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Low Fells (K).

Distinctive Characteristics

Extensive broadleaved woodlands;

including ex-coppice woodlands, and

dense, coniferous plantations which

give a strong sense of enclosure;

The Rusland Beeches are an important

landscape and cultural feature;

Isolated pockets of pasture within

woodland setting;

Intimate-scale, yet open corridor of

Dale Park Beck, which separates Dale

Park woodlands from Grizedale Forest

to the west;

Mature, designed parkland landscape

associated with Graythwaite Hall

(towards the east of the area);

Glimpses of views towards Lake

Windermere to the east and Esthwaite

Water to the north and Coniston Fells

to the west;

Hummocky, rough texture of underlying

geology of the fells, visible at the

surface, and open heath in higher parts

of the south of the area;

Woodland is interspersed with

numerous streams and springs;

Strong sense of enclosure throughout

Figure 54: Rusland Beeches. © LDNP.

Figure 55: © Dale Park. C. Barr.

Figure 56: Rusland Heights. © T. Morris.

63

most of the area as a result of the combination of rolling topography, and

woodland and plantation forestry; and

Predominantly a tranquil area due to the relative absence of settlements, minor

sources of artificial noise and perceived naturalness of the landscape.

Figure 57: Silage fields at Crosslands with Rusland Heights and Great Green Hows behind. © T. Morris.

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

A strong sense of enclosure is apparent throughout this landscape as a result of the

dense cover of both broadleaved and coniferous woodland. This woodland cloaks

an underlying rolling and hummocky topography with many rocky outcrops.

Deciduous, ex-coppiced woodland provides softer contrast to the regularity of conifer

plantations such as High Dale Park. A significant component of yew and holly in the

deciduous woodland provides evergreen contrast. Along the western boundary of the

ADC, the Rusland Beeches, currently numbering 49 mature/veteran trees form a line

along the roadside through Yew Barrow Woods towards Skinner Pastures. They are

an important landscape and cultural feature, much cherished by the local community

and protected by a Tree Preservation Order.

Towards the eastern corner of the area, Graythwaite Hall, with its associated mature,

designed parklands and ‘estate’ character, imparts a further sense of human

influence over this landscape. In addition to buildings associated with the Hall,

settlement pattern is very sparse, with only the small hamlets of Finsthwaite and

Crossland and occasional farmstead buildings visible. The southern part of the area

has a mixed character on Rusland Heights and Yew Barrow, with open heath with

heather, bilberries and bracken, interspersed with small tarns.

Most of the network of minor roads in the area do not have centre lines, and the

signage, whilst mostly modern, is unobtrusive. There is little recent housing

64

development, with most being farmhouses or cottages, Victorian country houses in

local stone, or white painted roughcast.

The distinctive church at Finsthwaite dates from 1873. It has an unusual squat

central steeple, and a timber framed porch, whilst exhibiting a mixture of pseudo

Norman and Early English styles. Stott Park Bobbin Mill has been preserved by

English Heritage and is a collection of stone industrial buildings with a tall brick

chimney, nestling in ex-coppice woodland near Finsthwaite. Finsthwaite House

dates from the late 17th century or early 18th century, built by the long established

Taylor family. In 1790, the estate passed to a nephew of the family, James King. He

commissioned Pennington Lodge Tower, a monument to the 1799 navel victories of

the Napoleonic Wars and, possibly, The Spire, an obelisk dating from 1800 and

another monument in the ADC.

Figure 58: Finsthwaite. © V. Champion.

Overall sense of tranquillity throughout the area is relatively strong as a result of the

relative inaccessibility of the area, other than via a few minor roads and public

footpaths. Nestled at the western edge of the area, the intimate corridor of Dale

Park Beck, with associated lush pasture fields, provides a sense of openness and

contrasts with surrounding woodland areas.

65

To the north and east, recognisable sense of place is apparent as a result of views

northwards across Esthwaite Water and eastwards across Lake Windermere.

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Extensive broadleaved woodland sensitive to changes in woodland

management;

Dense, coniferous woodland plantations, which denote a strong sense of

enclosure;

Overall sense of tranquillity throughout;

Strong sense of place provided by views across Esthwaite Water and Lake

Windermere, which are sensitive to interruption by tall vertical or large-scale

developments and loss of views as conifer plantations mature; and

Parkland sensitive to change in agricultural management.

Forces for Change

Increased traffic on small roads and car park development changing the

character of minor roads and tracks;

Lack of management of important landscape features such as parkland, stone

walls, hedges and pollarded trees, due to financial pressures in agri-environment

schemes; and

Development at Grizedale Forest Visitor Centre will increase traffic on the minor

roads in this area.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

Conserve and enhance broadleaved woodlands, which create a strong sense of

enclosure and encourage conversion of conifer plantations to deciduous.

Ecological Character

No guidelines recommended.

Cultural and Historic Character

Conserve and enhance open-grown trees and parkland features and

encourage succession planning;

66

Encourage opportunities for traditional woodland management including

coppicing in ex-coppice areas; and

Conserve and enhance the pattern of hedges and walls.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Maintain an overall sense of tranquillity throughout; and

Retain strong sense of place by maintaining views across Esthwaite Water and

Lake Windermere.

67

AREA 63: RUSLAND AND CRAKE VALLEYS

68

Figure 60: Colin Pit Barn © C. Barr.

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

This area of Distinctive Character is situated towards the south of Grizedale and

Coniston Water and comprises the Rusland Valley, the Crake Valley and the hills in

between. It comprises most of the south-west section of the scheme area.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Low Fells (K).

Distinctive Characteristics

Large patches of deciduous woodlands

and some conifer plantations provide a

strong sense of enclosure and intimacy

as well as texture and seasonal colour;

Gently meandering corridors of the River

Crake, Rusland Pool and Colton Beck;

Rolling topography of small hills and

hidden valleys channels the viewing

experience;

Network of narrow, gently winding roads

which criss-cross the landscape;

Patchwork of pasture fields with rock

outcrops, largely delineated by a network

of hedgerows and stone walls;

Area of lowland raised mire at Rusland

Moss;

Several nucleated hamlets, such as a

Oxen Park and Bouth, nestle within the

surrounding landscape;

Mature landscape structure, with areas of

parkland, pollards and mature deciduous

trees in fields, within hedgerows and

lining road corridors;

Dramatic open views across the Leven

Estuary from the south of the area;

Sense of place provided by dramatic

rising backdrop of wooded fells to the

north; and;

Figure 59: Rusland Moss. © C. Barr.

Figure 61: Rusland Hall. © E. Mills.

69

Predominantly a tranquil area due to the openness of the fells and the perceived

naturalness of the landscape. In addition there is a relative absence of

settlements and minimal sources of artificial noise.

Figure 62: Bandrake Head and Colton Church. © T. Morris.

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

This landscape has a predominantly rural character of rolling small hills and hidden

valleys, criss-crossed by a series of narrow roads, which link nucleated settlements,

nestled amongst patches of mostly deciduous woodlands. Sense of tranquillity is

relatively strong throughout. Mature single deciduous trees and pollards at field

boundaries and within fields, coupled with patches of woodland and parkland

planting, contribute to an overall mature, complex and intimate landscape structure.

The predominant colours of this patchwork of woodland and pasture fields

(delineated by a series of hedgerows and grey stone walls) are a tapestry of lush

greens and browns. At the southern edge of the character area, dramatic views

across the Leven estuary contributes to recognisable sense of place, whilst to the

north, views to the wooded backdrop of the low fells provides a strong sense of

enclosure. Rusland Moss is an area of lowland raised mire colonised by woodland

in patches and provides contrast in colour and texture with surrounding pasture.

There is little recent housing development, with scattered farmhouses or cottages,

Victorian country houses in local stone, or white painted roughcast. Associated with

the farms are relatively large stone barns or shippons. Whitestock Hall, dating from

1802 is a notable building, as are Rusland Hall, a larger Georgian mansion, and

Rusland Church, built in 1745. The church is situated on raised ground and looks

south across the valley. It has a square castellated tower. Arthur Ransome and his

70

wife are buried here. Most of the network of minor roads lack centre lines and the

signage, whilst mostly modern, is unobtrusive.

To the east, the corridor of the Rusland Pool and to the west, the River Crake, with

their associated riverside habitats and drainage ditches, provide visible corridor

features within the landscape. In both cases patches of broadleaved woodland on

the valley sides, provide a sense of enclosure and containment. The small

nucleated hamlets of Oxen Park and Bouth contain a mixture of slate and rendered

buildings as do the small farmsteads throughout the area.

The area has a strong sense of tranquillity due to the rolling topography and the

perceived naturalness of the landscape. The sense of tranquillity is enhanced by the

relative absence of large settlements and major roads and minimal sources of

artificial noise. However, the traffic noise along the A5084 and A590 create localised

areas of disturbance to the tranquillity.

Figure 63: Winter at Abbot Park Farm. © T. Morris.

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Large patches of broadleaved woodland provide a strong sense of enclosure

and are susceptible to changes in woodland management;

Water within the springs, becks and rivers Crake and Rusland are vulnerable to

pollution from run off associated with adjacent agricultural fields;

Network of hedgerows and stone walls is vulnerable to changes in landscape

management and agricultural practices;

71

Pollards and single trees and areas of parkland are vulnerable to inappropriate

management; and

Views to wooded backdrop are sensitive to interruption by tall vertical or large-

scale developments.

Forces for Change

Increased traffic on small roads and car park developments changing the

character of minor roads and tracks;

Development at Grizedale Visitor Centre will increase traffic on the minor roads

in this area; and

Lack of management of important features such as woodland, parkland, stone

walls and pollarded trees due to financial pressures in agri-environment

schemes.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

Conserve, enhance and encourage appropriate management of large patches

of deciduous woodland and promote conversion of conifer plantation to

broadleaved woodland;

Conserve and encourage appropriate management of pollards and single trees;

and

Protect water within the springs, becks and River Crake and Rusland Pool from

point source and diffuse pollution.

Ecological Character

Conserve and enhance lowland raised mire habitats and buffering areas around

them.

Cultural and Historic Character

Conserve and enhance network of hedgerows and stone walls; and

Conserve and enhance areas of parkland planting and encourage succession

planning.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Protect views towards wooded backdrop to valleys from interruption by tall

vertical or large-scale developments.

72

AREA 64: HAVERTHWAITE AND LEVEN ESTUARY

73

Figure 65: Haverthwaite. © W. Robinson www.southlakesholidaybarn.co.uk

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

Only a small part of this ADC lies within the southern extreme of the scheme area,

but it represents the visual and cultural link with the estuary, the railway and the road

links to past and present markets.

Relevant Landscape Character Types

Coastal Mosses (B2);

Low Fell Fringe (L); and

Low Fells (K).

Distinctive Characteristics

Winding channel of the River Leven, which is

fringed with sand and mudflats at low tide;

Dramatic open views southwards along the

river channel;

Sense of containment provided by backdrop of

low, predominantly wooded fells to the north;

Series of predominantly green, wooded and

open mosses adjacent to the River channel;

Regular network of drainage ditches at field

boundaries;

Landscape pattern of pasture fields,

interspersed with patches of woodland;

Nucleated traditional village of Haverthwaite,

with its cluster of render and limewashed house

and large stone barns; and

Predominantly a disturbed sense of tranquillity

due to road noise and the visual intrusion of

the A590 and the edge of Haverthwaite.

Figure 64.Otter in Rusland Pool. © B. Donato /Natural England.

Figure 66: Ireland Moss. © LDNP.

74

Figure 67: Ealinghearth. © C. Barr.

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

The meandering corridor of the River Leven, fringed with sand and mud at low tide,

dominates the character of this area resulting in a strong recognisable sense of

place. Dramatic views southwards along the river corridor and also northwards

towards the rising, predominantly wooded, low fells provide a sense of containment.

The river channel is bounded by a pattern of predominantly green pasture fields, and

mosses interspersed with mixed woodland. The lack of strong visual field

boundaries such as walls and hedges and the generally flat topography contribute to

a sense of openness. The levees running parallel to the river and the regular network

of drainage ditches at field boundaries are feature within the landscape.

The nucleated, traditional vernacular village of Haverthwaite, with its cluster of white-

washed houses, and the grade II listed Haverthwaite House, is the only settlement in

the scheme area. The railway, now dismantled, ran through this area, and its

embankments still remain in places, together with access tunnels. Two WWII

pillboxes are situated nearby. In some areas there is a strong sense of tranquillity.

However, in many areas the A590 main road corridor introduces a source of

movement and noise.

75

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Dramatic open views southwards along the river channel, which are vulnerable

to interruption by tall vertical or large-scale developments;

Strong sense of containment provided by low wooded fells to the north;

Areas of mossland sensitive to encroachment of birch woodland, changes in

water levels and agricultural practice

Relatively strong sense of tranquillity away from the A590 road corridor;

Peat carbon sink of lowland raised mires.

Area of parkland sensitive to changes in agricultural management; and

Areas of broadleaved woodland vulnerable to changes in management.

Forces for Change

Further dualing of A590;

Lowland raised mire restoration contributing to biodiversity and carbon

sequestration;

Deterioration of archaeological features within woods;

The spread of rhododendrons from Victorian garden planting at the expense of

native species and araucaria (monkey puzzle, possibly unique to this area,

brought from Chile by a local Victorian merchant seaman); and

Overhead wires and pylons, particularly to the south of the area.

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

No guidelines recommended.

Ecological Character

Conserve and enhance areas of broadleaved woodland, where appropriate,

encourage reversion of conifers to broadleaved woodland; and

Conserve and enhance coastal mossland habitats and raised mires and

buffering areas around them.

Cultural and Historic Character

76

Conserve and enhance parkland, encourage succession planning for key

features;

Retain small-scale settlement pattern, comprising Haverthwaite Village; and

Protect and conserve remains of woodland industries.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Protect dramatic views southwards along the river channel from tall vertical or

large-scale developments;

Retain strong sense of containment provided by low broadleaved wooded fells

to the north; and

Maintain key places with relatively strong sense of tranquillity.

77

AREA 65: BACKBARROW AND BIGLAND

78

Character Assessment

Location and Boundaries

Only a small part of this ADC lies within the extreme south-east of the scheme area,

but it has strong visual and cultural links with the landscape and transport links of the

area particularly the industries focussed on Backbarrow and the Lakeside and

Havethwaite railway.

Relevant Landscape Character types

Low Fell Fringe (L).

Distinctive Characteristics

Combination of industrial valley and

extensive allotment landscape of large

fields of improved grassland or

woodland;

Intimate small-scale rolling landscape

characterised by a patchwork of

different habitats, offering variety and

diversity, including woodland, scrub,

pasture, wetlands, tarns and streams;

Remains of the historic iron works at

Backbarrow, now being developed and

restored;

Whitewater Hotel, a large distinctive

building by the River Leven, originally a

mid Victorian cotton spinning mill, then

became Reckitt’s Washing Blue

factory, until converted to hotel and

leisure complex in the early 1980s,

with associated new timeshare

cottages by the river at Backbarrow;

River Leven at Backbarrow;

Former gunpowder works at Low

Wood, with distinctive grey stone clock

tower and adjacent terraces of 18th

century workers housing;

Leven Valley and its industrial

heritage;

Figure 68: Backbarrow Ironworks. © B. Long.

Figure 70: Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway. © LDNP.

Figure 69: River Leven and Motor Museum. © LDNP.

79

The lakeside to Haverthwaite preserved steam railway forms an important link

along the valley, originally for past industries, but today as a tourist attraction;

and

Predominantly a tranquil area away from the A590 and Newby Bridge due to the

perceived naturalness of the landscape and relative absence of settlements,

dwellings and minimal sources of noise.

Figure 71: Newby Bridge. © LDNP.

Local Distinctiveness and Sense of Place

This diverse landscape incorporates a rich variety of habitats, including semi-natural

broadleaved woodland, plantations (both deciduous and coniferous, with lots of ex-

coppice), the hummocky rough grassland of the ‘allotments’ and large pastoral fields

demarcated by dry stone walls. Colour and variety is apparent with bracken,

hawthorn and gorse on top of the fell.

The area is accessible via a handful of narrow secondary roads, connecting the few

hamlets, the village of Backbarrow, and the scattered farms, coupled with a relatively

dense network of footpaths. As a result, a strong sense of tranquillity (away from the

A590) is apparent aided by the nature of the vegetation, which contributes to a sense

of enclosure.

80

The Leven Valley has been a focus for industries making use of water power since

the early 18th century including iron smelting, gun powder manufacture and various

milling processes. The topography of the area has resulted in the development of a

transport corridor (road and rail) further concentrating development in the river

valley.

From the higher points, in particular the area on top of the fells to the east of the

hamlet of Brow Edge, striking long distance views can be gained across landscape

within this area, towards the Rusland Fells and the higher central fells beyond. The

area has a strong sense of tranquillity due to the perceived naturalness of the

landscape and the relative absence of settlements, dwellings and minimal sources of

noise. However the sense of tranquillity is disturbed locally around Newby Bridge

and the A590 due to traffic noise and visibility of the urban edge.

Landscape Evaluation

Landscape Sensitivities

Small-scale patchwork of differing habitats;

Extensive archaeological remains of past industries;

Increasing development of woodland and scrub diluting the pattern of the

allotment landscape;

Overall strong sense of tranquillity away from A590; and

Strong intervisibility with adjacent Landscape Character Types.

Forces for Change

Pressure of development on industrial archaeology;

Development of woodland and scrub diluting the pattern of the allotment

landscape;

The A590 skirts the northern boundary of the area, creating noise and visual

intrusion, especially from adjacent higher ground, particularly to the south.

The Windermere terminates in the river Leven at Newby bridge from thence it falls with rapidity for the space of two miles dashing its against the rugged recks which oppose its course through Backbarrow, forming several cascades it reaches the plain of Roudsey where after its waters with Crake they form the Eau or river Leven sands and are received by the tide from St George's channel or the Irish Sea The fall Newby bridge where the Windermere forms the Leven to the high water mark of the tide at Low wood bridge distant two miles is 105 feet. Thomas West (1805), The Antiquities of Furness.

81

Guidelines for Managing Landscape Change

Physical Character

No guidelines recommended.

Ecological Character

Retain small scale patchwork of differing habitats, which contribute to

recognisable sense of place.

Cultural and Historic Character

Protect and conserve industrial archaeology; and

Manage woodland to conserve best of allotment landscape, encourage

reversion of coniferous to broadleaved woodland and encourage re-instatement

of coppice management in ex-coppice areas.

Aesthetic and Perceptual Character

Protect wide, open views across adjacent landscape from tall vertical or large-

scale developments;

Maintain overall strong sense of tranquillity, where applicable; and

Retain strong intervisibility with adjacent Landscape Character Type.

82

CONSULTING THE COMMUNITY These results are based on surveys, a Rusland Valley & Fells Heritage

Partnership Steering Group workshop and stake-holder consultations carried

out by Wingspan Consulting and Minerva Heritage in the autumn of 2014.

The full results were published in the Audience Development and

Interpretation Plans developed for the Rusland Horizons Landscape

Partnership Scheme; the findings relevant to Landscape Character have been

summarised below.

Figure 72: Word cloud created with responses given to the question, 'To you, what makes this area special'.

Item Face-to-face survey Online survey

Activities in the area

The interviewees were comparatively active – with 40% planning to or having gone for a walk, a further 4% going for a bike ride. 15% of those interviewed were at Grizedale planning to go to GoApe

Over 46% of people were planning on visiting an attraction or a museum on the day of the interview

Interviewees were fairly infrequent visitors to the area (for nearly half this was their only visit in the last 12 months)

The most popular activity was walking (81% had gone for a walk in the scheme area in the last year) and 48% had cycled in the area

Over 40% of respondents had visited a visitor attraction in the area in the last year

83

What people valued

The face to face interviewees, when asked an open question, most frequently identified as important:

o Scenery o The beauty of the area o Mountains o Lakes

Very few specifically mentioned woodland

When asked to rate the importance of various aspects of the area, again the landscape was given the highest score (with 95 out of 102 people rating it as extremely important) followed by opportunities for activities such as walking and cycling (91 rating this as extremely important), peace and quiet (75), the woodland (74), and wildlife (71). Least importance was attached to traditional buildings (40 rating this as extremely important) and archaeology (22)

In the open question on what makes the area special, the landscape again figured heavily, but more specifically in this group the woodland was strongly mentioned, alongside the peacefulness and unspoilt nature of the area, and the contribution of local people and communities to its special quality

There was no particular mention of coppicing or coppiced woodland, the comments were more general

When asked to rate the various elements of the area, the woodland came out top with 95% of respondents rating it as extremely important. Least important again were the traditional buildings and archaeology, and for this audience, opportunities for activities

Dislikes and room for improvement

There were not many things that people disliked or felt that could be improved in the area.

However, traffic and parking were both mentioned

Only half of the respondents identified areas for improvement – again many of the comments concerned cars and parking, and also some respondents (11) specifically mentioned scope for environmental improvements to the area

The overall conclusion that can be drawn from these surveys is that the Rusland Horizons area is highly valued – both by the people who live there and by visitors. For the majority of people, their valuation relates to:

Appreciating the landscape and its constituent parts (eg woodlands, wildlife) in a very general sense

84

Using the area for recreational purposes (eg walking, cycling and visiting visitor attractions)

Enjoying the quiet and peaceful nature of the area (especially when compared with busier areas with the National Park)

People do not generally appear to value what makes the area special from a specialist archaeological, historical or ecological perspective. However, this is probably because they are largely unaware of those features, no doubt due in large part to the current lack of heritage interpretation in the area (a deficit that Rusland Horizons aims to correct).

Messages

Here are the messages and stories people felt were important to tell about the

scheme area:

Different landscape character

There is a long history of management.

The important relationship between farming and countryside.

To see the bigger picture – the relationship/links between everything.

The landscape demonstrates century upon century of people working on

and linking with the landscape. It is multi-dimensional.

Topics in oral history project will include people’s experience of being in

the community, woodland (including coppicing and charcoal), old

Grizedale Hall and its history, and other old buildings, field names.

Cultural landscape

There is a long history and legacy of woodland management which should

be continued.

The industrial heritage is an important part of the area.

There is a need to talk about hard forestry (charcoal, timber extraction,

wood fuel etc.) and not over-emphasise coppicing.

Provide examples of a range of key features that are accessible to the

public and can be interpreted in a way that tells the story of the exploitation

of the woodland.

Biodiversity

That the area is an important woodland area in terms of size and

significance.

The difference between species of tree and other flora and fauna.

The project should be teaching people about things like otters, barn owls,

red squirrels.

85

The biodiversity is really important; wetlands, hills, rare plants and

animals. Some people may not fully understand what is here in the natural

environment.

There are wildlife benefits to coppicing. It provides better game cover,

better shelter for neighbouring livestock and can potentially add capital

value.

There are opportunities to raise public awareness of the species and

involving people in helping the research.

People and communities

Rusland is a distinct area with a strong heritage – there is currently a

strong sense of what Rusland is among people who live there but not

among people from outside.

Visitors should understand the importance of the area and appreciate the

community that has developed and interacted with the environment here.

Help people better understand that making changes in woodland is

expensive, long-term and needs sustained effort over a long period of

time.

The woodland must be well-managed.

86

REFERENCES

Table of Maps and Images Figure 1: View from Rusland Heights. © T. Morris. .......................................... 3 Figure 2: Ickenthwaite in the Snow. © T. Morris .............................................. 3 Figure 3: Sniggers extracting timber. © T. Saunders. ..................................... 4

Figure 4: Stony Hazel Forge. © C. Barr. ......................................................... 4 Figure 5: High Brown Fritillary. © R Goodison. ................................................ 4 Figure 6: Restored gate stoop. © T. Morris. ................................................... 5 Figure 7: Location of the scheme area within Cumbria showing relationship to National Park, County and District boundaries. ............................................... 7 Figure 8: Boundary of the Scheme Area. ......................................................... 8 Figure 9: The High Furness Fells with high Central Lakes fells to the north. © C Barr. ............................................................................................................. 9

Figure 10: Looking towards Oxen Park with Morecambe Bay in the distance. © T. Morris ..................................................................................................... 10 Figure 11: Ickenthwaite and Rusland Church.© T. Morris. ............................. 10 Figure 12: Charcoal Burners c1930s. © K. Airy. ........................................... 11

Figure 13: The geology of the Lake District. .................................................. 12 Figure 14: Glacial valley: Coniston Water from Brockbarrow. © T. Morris .... 14

Figure 15: Woodlands and pasture. © C Barr. ............................................... 15 Figure 16: Human influences in the scheme area: location of places mentioned. ..................................................................................................... 16 Figure 17: Bethecar Moor Cairn. © K. Baverstock. ........................................ 17

Figure 18: Finsthwaite - a village clearing in the wood. © T.Morris. .............. 18 Figure 19: Abbot Park Farm. © T. Morris ....................................................... 19

Figure 20: Stott Park Bobbin Mill. © C. Barr ................................................... 20 Figure 21: Potash Kiln. © V. Champion. ........................................................ 20 Figure 22: Designated archaeological sites within the scheme area. ............ 21

Figure 23: Brantwood. ©T. Morris .................................................................. 22 Figure 24: Charcoal burners. © T. Saunders. ................................................ 23

Figure 25: The different types of woodland in the Scheme Area. .................. 24 Figure 26: Yew Barrow Wood SSSI and Rusland Moss SSSI. © T. Morris .... 25

Figure 27: Hazel coppice at Sale Bank Wood. © E. Mills. .............................. 26 Figure 28: Hazel Dormouse: © P. Morris ....................................................... 27 Figure 29: Red Squirrel. © V. Corbett. ........................................................... 28 Figure 30: High Brown Fritillary. © R Goodison ............................................. 29

Figure 31: Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Special Areas of Conservation within the Scheme Area. .......................................................... 30

Figure 32: Families enjoying the visitor centre at Grizedale Forest. © Crown Copyright, courtesy of the Forestry Commission. .......................................... 32 Figure 33: Carefully maintained dry stone walls and outbuildings at Abbot Park Farm and campsite. © C. Barr. .............................................................. 33 Figure 34: Ancient ash pollard near Penny Bridge. Now under threat from Chalara fraxinea. © V. Champion. ................................................................ 34 Figure 35: Landscape Character Types and Areas of Distinctive Character within the scheme area. ................................................................................. 37 Figure 36: View from Rusland Heights. ©. T. Morris. .................................... 39 Figure 37: Winding roads to Rusland Church. © C. Barr. .............................. 39

87

Figure 38: Breakdown of LCT K into subtypes. .............................................. 40 Figure 39: Breakdown of LCT M into subtypes. ............................................. 41 Figure 40: Lakeside. © C. Barr. ..................................................................... 45 Figure 41: Windermere East Shore. © D. Dixon. ........................................... 45 Figure 42: Yachts on Windermere. © J. Morris. ............................................. 45

Figure 43: Rusland oak and bluebell woods. © T. Morris............................... 46 Figure 44: Graythwaite Hall gardens. © K. Baverstock. ................................. 47 Figure 45: Coniston Launch © LDNP ............................................................. 51 Figure 46: Steam Yacht Gondola © LDNP ..................................................... 51 Figure 47: Coniston Water from Bethecar Moor, above Dodgson Wood. © T Morris ............................................................................................................. 52

Figure 48: Rigg Wood and Bethecar Moor. © T. Morris. ................................ 52

Figure 49: Peel Island. © LDNP ..................................................................... 53 Figure 50: Grizedale visitor centre © Crown Copyright. Forestry Commission. ....................................................................................................................... 57 Figure 51: Grizedale Forest © T. Morris. ....................................................... 57

Figure 52: Grizedale Sculpture. © LDNP. ..................................................... 57

Figure 53: Looking North across Force Forge and Grizedale Forest. © T. Morris. ............................................................................................................ 59 Figure 54: Rusland Beeches. © LDNP. .......................................................... 62 Figure 55: © Dale Park. C. Barr. .................................................................... 62

Figure 56: Rusland Heights. © T. Morris. ...................................................... 62

Figure 57: Silage fields at Crosslands with Rusland Heights and Great Green Hows behind. © T. Morris. ............................................................................. 63 Figure 58: Finsthwaite. © V. Champion. ........................................................ 64

Figure 59: Rusland Moss. © C. Barr. ............................................................. 68 Figure 60: Colin Pit Barn © C. Barr. ............................................................... 68

Figure 61: Rusland Hall. © E. Mills. ............................................................... 68 Figure 62: Bandrake Head and Colton Church. © T. Morris. ......................... 69 Figure 63: Winter at Abbot Park Farm. © T. Morris. ....................................... 70

Figure 64.Otter in Rusland Pool. © B. Donato /Natural England. .................. 73 Figure 65: Haverthwaite. © W. Robinson www.southlakesholidaybarn.co.uk 73 Figure 66: Ireland Moss. © LDNP. ................................................................. 73

Figure 67: Ealinghearth. © C. Barr. ................................................................ 74

Figure 68: Backbarrow Ironworks. © B. Long. .............................................. 78 Figure 69: River Leven and Motor Museum. © LDNP. ................................... 78 Figure 70: Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway. © LDNP................................. 78

Figure 71: Newby Bridge. © LDNP. ............................................................... 79 Figure 72: Word cloud created with responses given to the question, 'To you, what makes this area special'. ....................................................................... 82

88

Reference Documents

Chris Blandford Associates. (2008). Lake District National Park Landscape Character Assessment and Guidelines. Online. Available at: http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/caringfor/policies/lca

Natural England. (2013). National Character Area Profile: 19 South Cumbria Low Fells. Online. Available at: http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/publications/nca/south_cumbria_low_fells.a

spx

Tiplady, S. & Baverstock, K. (2014). The Parish of Satterthwaite a Social History. Satterthwaite: Saetrpress. Wingspan Consulting (2015). Rusland Horizons: Audience Development Plan Minerva Heritage (2015). Rusland Horizons Interpretation Plan

89

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This Landscape Character Assessment has been compiled by Marian Jones, Rusland Horizons LP Scheme Development Officer, with support from the Rusland Valley and Fells Heritage Partnership Steering Group. Our sincere thanks go to Chris Greenwood, Landscape Architect, for producing the vast majority of the Assessment; Eleanor Kingston, LDNPA, for writing the section on Human Influences; Judy Clavey, LDNPA and Ian Slater, Natural England, for preparing and writing the section on Biodiversity; and Edward Mills, Woodland Manager, Chartered Forester and Conservationist, for writing the section on Pests and Diseases. The Community Response section was coordinated by Wingspan Consulting and Minerva Heritage as part of the development of the Rusland Horizons Audience Development and Interpretation Plans. The maps have been produced by the Lake District National Park Authority. The Assessment is brought to life by the stunning photographs which demonstrate the beauty and diversity of the scheme area throughout the seasons. Thanks go to the following people for trawling through their collections and for sharing their images with us: Teresa Morris Colin Barr Vanessa Champion Edward Mills LDNP Forestry Commission Val Corbett R Goodison Ben Long John Morris Pat Morris Tony Saunders Kevin Baverstock Kate Airy David Dixon Bart Donato / Natural England Wayne Robinson (South Lakes Holiday Barn)